How to make a frame for drywall. Do-it-yourself installation of a profile for drywall

The main task of the master when building structures from plasterboard is to correctly and accurately install the frame, which, in fact, holds this material. Despite the fact that there are standardized types of circuits that correspond to proprietary technologies - the same company Knauf, the craftsmen are constantly inventing and improving something.

This is what makes working with drywall so interesting; it is non-standard and you constantly have to “use your brain.” The work is actually creative, and if you doubt whether to take it on or not, then cast aside all doubts, you will definitely succeed after you read this material. So, how to make a frame from a metal profile for drywall: video, photos and step-by-step instructions.

Preparatory part

The main part of the article will be divided into two parts, devoted to wall and ceiling frames. But that’s a little later, but now you need to understand what tool you have to work with and what materials to use.

Work equipment

Let's mention all the tools that can be useful when constructing a frame, including professional ones. You never know - today you try your hand, and tomorrow you are already servicing huge objects, earning serious money.

Technologically, the installation of a metal profile under plasterboard can be divided into 4 main stages:

Marking the frame plane;
Fastening profiles to walls;
Profile cutting;
Filling the frame.

This division will help us better understand which tool to use. Let's go in order.

Marking tool
	You must have this type of level, but not so much for marking the plane, but for additional verification of the correct location of individual profiles in the frame. It is recommended to purchase an option with a magnetic strip so that the level is independently held on the profile while it is being set.
	A very precise tool that will help you set up a ceiling frame for plasterboard made of metal profiles. The device costs mere pennies, but it is not very convenient to use - you have to fill and drain water from it, you need two people. It is recommended for use by beginning craftsmen who do not want or are unable to spend money on expensive equipment.
	A plumb line is indispensable when constructing vertical planes. He can probably deceive only in zones with anomalous gravity, of which there are not many on our planet.
	This compact assistant will help you replace all previous devices. The price of a good laser-type axle-maker can reach 20 thousand rubles - such devices are very accurate, they can draw the entire plane at the same time, draw a 90-degree angle and much more. Advice! Cheaper options may produce some error, but usually their accuracy is sufficient for working with drywall.
	No matter how high a level you have, you still can’t do without a regular roulette.

Total: a novice master will only need to purchase a tape measure, a hydraulic level and a bubble level. A professional installer will give preference to laser technology, but not because of its accuracy, but because of its ease of use and increasing speed of work.

Tool for attaching profile to walls
	The simplest and most accessible tool for these purposes is a network hammer. For initial work You can buy an inexpensive Chinese tool - all that is required of it is to periodically drill holes, that is, it will not experience overload. However, it is important to understand that a powerful tool will cope with drilling more efficiently and quickly.
	A huge disadvantage of a network hammer drill is its dependence on electrical networks, so working with it at height is problematic - something constantly gets caught somewhere, wires get tangled under your feet so that you can fall. If there is serious work to be done high ceiling, it will be much more convenient to do it with a cordless hammer like this.
	But all these are real toys compared to mounting guns, in particular gas guns. While you drill one hole with a hammer drill, this monster will be able to hammer in about 20-30 dowels, which can easily pierce not only concrete, but also metal. When used on very large objects, such a tool reduces the work time by several times.
Additional Information! Provided that the base is made of wood, a screwdriver is used to fasten the profiles.

Total: It is clear that mounting gun will cost much more - from 30 to 70 thousand rubles, depending on the manufacturer and model, but working without it on large objects is more expensive.

Profile cutting tool
	The most simple solution There will be the use of metal scissors. Simple, in the sense of accessible. They cope with the task effectively, provided that the tool is of high quality, with a double lever.
	The grinder cuts the profile very quickly, but the abrasive discs used strongly heat the metal, which leads to burnout of the zinc coating, and as a result, corrosion of the metal, especially in damp rooms.
	An excellent solution would be to use a circular saw. It also heats up the profile when cutting, but the temperature is not enough to evaporate zinc from the surface, so you can work without fear for quality.

Total: U good master Each of these devices should be available, since all can be useful in different situations.

Tool for connecting frame parts
	Partially, and sometimes completely, the frame is assembled using self-tapping screws. To tighten them effectively, you need a high-torque screwdriver.
	Certain types of frames can only be assembled using a cutter. This allows you to make the frame on the walls under plasterboard made of metal profiles more even, without loss of reliability.

Total: We purchase both tools.

Materials

Now let's quickly look at all types of profiles and accessories for them and start assembling as soon as possible:

Types of metal profiles for drywall	Purpose	Metal profile for plasterboard, dimensions: length, height, width mm
	Guides for plasterboard ceilings. They are used to tie the frame to walls and ceilings, and help hold the frame at the junction with them.	30002728
	The main profile of the ceiling frame. It is often used as a rack or wall mount, to save space if necessary.	30002760
	An analogue of the PPN profile, but only for wall frames. In some cases it can also be used as a rack profile.	300050 (75, 100) 40
	The rack metal profile for plasterboard (dimensions) is selected to match the PN profile used. It gives the wall frames basic rigidity.	300050 (75, 100) 60

The following devices are used together with profiles:

	Connects the frame to the base, giving the structure more rigidity. The length of the blades is 12 centimeters.
	Designed for perpendicular connection of rack profiles.
	Helps increase the length of the PP profile.

There are also other fittings, for example: spring hangers, corner connectors, T-shaped connectors, etc. They are rarely used, since they can be replaced by what we named in the tables.

Wall frames

So, we will disassemble standard designs. You can come up with other modifications yourself, or look at experienced craftsmen. By the way, “Do-it-yourself plasterboard ceiling cladding” is a video that all beginners need to watch.

False wall - classic scheme

Most craftsmen begin mastering plasterboard structures by installing false walls.

Here's how it's done:

It all starts, as you might guess, with markings. At this stage, your task is to determine the most protruding point on the wall, correctly orient the plane, and draw it without distortions.
There is no point in looking for a protruding point on the wall itself - usually these are either heating risers, or faucet handles on radiators, in general, any free-standing thing that can interfere with installation.
The plane must be oriented so that it forms 90-degree angles with adjacent walls. Well, this is ideal, but we are looking for the closest values possible. Check the existing angles using a protractor or a simple square; if the walls form approximately the same angles, then in the future you can only use a tape measure.
So, we measure how far the protruding point is from the wall, add 3 to 6 centimeters to the resulting value, depending on the type of profile, and how the frame intersects with this point.
The resulting value, let it be 10 cm, is deposited on the two upper corners of the future plane.

We attach a plumb line to the resulting points and transfer them to the lower corners.
All received marks are connected with a tapping cord. The result is a perfectly flat plane without distortions.
If you have a laser axle builder that can draw in all directions, simply place it on the floor and align its lines with the points - everything is ready, you can attach the profile.

The guide profile (PPN or PN) is attached directly to the walls, floor and ceiling using dowel screws.

Advice! Be careful not to damage communications that may pass through surfaces when drilling. This could be wiring and heated water floors.

Then the main verticals are installed. What it is? These are the racks that form the boundaries of window and doorways. For this purpose, use the PS or PP profile, depending on the type of guide.
The connection between the profiles is carried out using self-tapping screws.
Next, the main horizontal lines are installed - it is better to make them from a guide profile so that the connections with the racks are technologically advanced.
We fill the main space of the frame with racks, in increments of exactly 60 centimeters. All elements must be strictly level, so do not forget to double-check.

Advice! There is no need to “torture” each stand with a level - place one, and all the others move away from it using a tape measure.

Immediately figure out in what sequence and on which side you will hem the sheets. This will allow you to understand where it is easier to start counting the step.
Then the main cross members are installed. These elements are needed at the joints of plasterboard sheets. We know two facts: the length of the sheet is 250 centimeters, adjacent sheets are spaced apart. It follows that the jumper under the first sheet is located at a distance of 2.5 meters from the floor, and under the second - from the ceiling.

Drywall makers are actively arguing about whether the frame needs cross members, because even without them the structures are quite strong, especially if the drywall is sewn in two layers.
Our position is more in favor of jumpers, but sometimes, indeed, you can do without them.
Whatever one may say, even the lintels not tied to the walls significantly strengthen the frame. And in some places you can’t do without them at all. For example, a vertical on the edge of a window opening - there is simply nowhere to attach it at other times, and a jumper that fits it will serve as an excellent support that can be tied to the wall.
If you make a frame in this way, you will need “crabs” (single-level connectors) to attach the jumpers, or the profile is cut in such a way that “tongues” are obtained at the ends, as in the photo below, through which the element is attached to self-tapping screws.

Both schemes have disadvantages. In the first case, there is a waste of fittings, which also have to be cut at the points of contact with the main verticals, and in the second, not only does the profiles overlap, but also the head of the screw will stick out on top of it all. The result is significant difference on a plane, and drywall may even break when fastened in these places.
The solution to the problem will be further, but for now we continue.
Jumpers are also installed under the ceiling if you plan to make suspended ceiling. They run continuously along the entire length of the structure and form a mortgage.
After installing all the elements, the frame is strengthened. To do this, all the main racks are connected to the wall through hangers or corners made from the PN profile. The jumpers are also reinforced in the right places.

Alternative method

The next method, in our humble opinion, is much more technologically advanced, and, despite some overexpenditure of the profile, more preferable.

Its essence is that the rack profiles are replaced with guides, which are paired with the backs.
This design is very easy to assemble and much faster. No hangers are needed to fix it, and “crabs” are not needed for assembly.

The installed racks are attached to the guide profile using a cutter. Such a knot will be very strong, and nothing will protrude beyond the plane of the frame.
Due to the fact that the paired profiles are turned to the sides, jumpers in any quantity can be easily installed between them.
The frame is strengthened precisely through the jumpers, since corners from the PN profile are used for this. Making them couldn't be easier. We take an unnecessary piece of profile, cut its sides at the required distance, bend the part 90 degrees and fasten everything with a cutter.

Drywall partitions are assembled in a similar way. Only the official technology suggests pairing the PS profile, but we know about the disadvantages of this design, namely, the impossibility of normal fastening of the jumpers.

Yes, the PS profile is stiffer due to the stiffening ribs it has, but this is not critical if the PN profile you are using is of high quality (0.6 mm thick). At the same time, do not forget that these same stiffening ribs will interfere; it is normal for you to insert insulation.

Ceiling frames

The design of a standard ceiling frame is no different from a wall frame, but how to install it is another question.

Single-level frame

So, let's start again with the markup:

We retreat an arbitrary distance from the ceiling in any corner, placing marks on adjacent walls. It’s better to take the design distance right away - in case everything works out the first time.
Using a water or laser level, we transfer these marks to all other corners in the room, including external ones.
We take a tape measure and measure the distance from each mark to the ceiling. We need to find the smallest value - this will be the lowest corner. You can also check the entire ceiling if you have doubts about its evenness. To do this, you will have to draw lines between the marks or check everything using a laser level suspended from the ceiling, but in 95% of cases, just checking the corners will be enough.
If you initially did not guess with the angle, then in the one that turned out to be lower than the others, we again plot the design distance on the tape measure and measure the difference from the previously used mark.
We adjust the marks in the remaining corners, focusing not on the ceiling and the design distance, but on the first marks and the resulting difference.

A little awkwardly, we tried to depict the principle of constructing a plane in the diagram above.
The resulting points are now connected with a dye thread.
Next, a PPN profile is attached around the perimeter.
Then we attach the PN profile - its pitch is also 60 centimeters.

Suspensions are attached above the profiles, but do not rush to tie them together, since the belts are now bending a little under their own weight. To level their plane, pull the thread perpendicularly, pull the profiles up and wrap them around the hangers with the ears for temporary fixation.

Release the belts one by one and attach them to the hangers with self-tapping screws.
Next, jumpers are installed. Their installation step is 50 centimeters, exactly the same as that of the wall frame. Here you can’t do without the use of “crabs”.

That's it, the frame is ready. Metal screws are used to attach drywall to the ceiling.

Second level

How to assemble a frame for drywall ceiling box or any other figure?

The photo above shows an example of one of these designs.
As you can see, PP profiles, located horizontally and vertically, form an angle of 90 degrees, and are connected into one structure through the PPN profile at the corner.
To attach horizontal belts, you don’t need to invent anything - they are simply inserted into the PPN profiles with their ends, but under the verticals, we see that the sides are cut out.
You can go the other way - install not one, but two PPN profiles on the corner, which will be paired. In this case, one also “looks” at the wall, and the second at the ceiling.
The third scheme does not require vertical posts. They are replaced by a narrow strip of plasterboard, which is immediately screwed to the ceiling profile.
The choice of fastening scheme depends on the situation and the complexity of the frame, but the latter option is used more often - and assembly is faster, and there is some savings in material.

If you need to make a curved figure, the profiles connecting to the ceiling and standing on the outer corner are cut at a frequency of 5-6 centimeters. In this case, the first one has a side and a base, and the second one has both sides cut through.

A multi-level frame can be assembled in different sequences: some come from top level to the bottom, and others - vice versa. Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages. “Do-it-yourself installation of metal profiles under drywall” video will help you better understand what is right for you.

Hello to all readers who want to understand the intricacies of renovating their home. I will not hide the fact that I had to deal with different objects, so I have enough experience. And I know that home owners are guided by their own motives: someone quality is more important, while others are tight on budget. But in any case, I advise that when installing partitions or cladding walls, you use a profile frame. Why is this option better than wood?

Materials for mounting profile frames

To produce durable and durable design, preliminary study the proposed modern market metal frame assembly elements. They consist of various types of profiles and fasteners.

Table of elements required for assembly and installation of a metal frame:

Name	Definition	Comments
UD profile	guide	serves to determine the plane of the structure
CD profile	load-bearing, holds the weight of the manufactured structure	are attached to it plasterboard sheets
Connector-CD	straight	used to increase the length of the product
Connector-CD	cross-shaped (“crab”)	necessary to increase the strength of the product
Connector-CD	two-level	Connects the upper and lower load-bearing levels
bracket	U-shaped	attaches the CD profile to the wall
Teks	diameter 3.5mm and length 9.5mm	metal self-tapping screw (connects profiles to each other)
Self-tapping screw for metal	length 25 mm and diameter 3.5 mm	they are used to fasten drywall
Dowels	diameter 6 mm	connect the frame to the wall

Notes:

The supporting and guide profiles are made of galvanized steel and have the following dimensions: thickness 0.4 mm, length 3 m or 4 m, width varies from 50 mm to 100 mm. Such profile parameters are due to the square footage of modern premises. Nowadays, ceilings higher than 3 or 4 meters are rare, and the length of straight elements for a wall frame rarely exceeds four meters.

Fastening materials for frame assembly

How to make a frame from a profile

Before going to the store to buy construction products, measure the surfaces on which the structures will be mounted. This will allow you to correctly calculate required amount the necessary materials.
Before installing the frame from the profile, it is recommended to complete the entire electrical complex. installation work.
The metal structure is located at a certain distance from the base plane in order to use the resulting gap to insulate the wall and increase the sound insulation of the room. The distance from the wall to the profile is used to place auxiliary communications. It is recommended to leave a gap of 100 millimeters.
The distance from one UD profile to another is no more than 1 meter, the common fastening step is 0.6 meters. Each part of the metal frame is fixed at least at three points.
It is recommended to maintain a distance between CD profiles of no more than 0.6 meters, ideally 0.4 m.
The joints of the profiles require additional treatment with sealant in order to avoid unpleasant creaking, which inevitably occurs at the slightest deformation of the wall due to shrinkage of the building.
The vertical profile is attached in the following order: first of all, it is attached to the floor, then to the walls and then mounted to the ceiling. On these walls hardware are fixed using U-shaped brackets.

Profile frame fixed to the wall

Profile frame for plasterboard ceiling

When making a frame product, do not forget to use a level.

A tensioned thread is used to level the supporting profile, and a hydraulic level is used for the guide.

In addition to the above list of materials used during installation, for ceiling structure you will need a quick hanger. This element is a product of two components - a loop with a knitting needle and a spring, which is equipped with a special clamp and easily slides along the knitting needle. Using a quick hanger, the frame is leveled horizontally.

Before starting the installation of the ceiling structure, it is determined what kind of lighting will be in the room. If it is intended to be used spotlights, then you need to know their height, since this parameter directly determines how far from the base plane the new ceiling will be lowered.
The frame mounted on the ceiling is a mesh of load-bearing and guide elements, in which lintels are installed at fastening intervals of 2.5 meters, and profile products at a distance of 0.4 meters. “crabs” are used for jumpers. In this case, the CD profile is attached to the wall using a UD profile, and mounted on the ceiling using quick hangers.

Profile frame for the roof of a house

While galvanized steel frames are already widely used for renovation work in apartments, the use of this material in roof construction has not yet become so widely used.

To complete the task you will need following materials: profiles with thicknesses from 0.7 millimeters to 2.0 millimeters with different sections (P, C, Ω and Z), roofing screws or galvanized steel rivets, level, tape measure, plumb line.

For high-quality production of a roof frame from a profile, at the initial stage it is drawn manually or using a special computer program drawing of the future roof.
Selected required types profile. For rafters, elements with a U-shaped cross-section are used; for the manufacture of trusses, “P”, “C” or “Z” are used, and for sheathing, respectively, “Ω”.
Installation begins with the installation of trusses and rafters. They are attached to the wall using anchor bolts. They are then temporarily secured along a vertical guide.
A profile element for sheathing the roof being manufactured is installed along the horizontal guide.
Next, the roofing material is attached to the roof sheathing.

You can learn more about the frame installation process from the video:

Frame for walls made of galvanized profile: step-by-step assembly

Manufacturing and installation of a wall frame - stages:

Marking the future wall.
Um-profiles are mounted to the wall, ceiling plane and floor.
Between them in the vertical plane, cw-elements are placed, which are placed at a distance of 0.4 m.
If it is planned to install a door in the partition, then a beam made of wood is installed in the elements forming the perimeter of the future wall.

If everything is done correctly, you can be sure that using a profile speeds up the installation work and it doesn’t matter what to cover – the ceiling or the walls.

Almost any plasterboard structure cannot do without an appropriate frame base. There are, of course, options when sheets or their fragments are simply attached with glue, but in this case the wall must be specially prepared, and besides, more complex systems without it simply will not be strong enough. Therefore, drywall without a frame is installed only as a last resort, and then only in small areas. The base gives strength, secures the sheets in the right places, fixing them, and prevents the surfaces from loosening.

There are several ways to construct this base: wooden beams and slats can be used, or you can make a frame from a galvanized metal profile.

Frame for the profile: design features

Any assembly of a frame from a plasterboard profile begins with the selection of material for its base. In principle, there are two options: metal and wood (plastic, due to its low popularity among the population, will not be considered, at least in this article).

Wooden slats and beams are, of course, the most low-budget and affordable option. And previously it was believed that for private renovations the best material for installing a frame under drywall could not be found. But upon careful study, the beams have some nuances and specifics of operation, which in certain situations are quite difficult to circumvent.

All these annoying disadvantages are absent when installing a metal profile. That is why many master finishers choose frame profile made of metal.

When a metal profile frame is needed

There are situations when it is impossible to do without a frame for gypsum boards. These can be curly design details:

arches and niches,
built-in wardrobes,
multi-tiered ceilings,
bedside tables.

A special section consists of partitions between load-bearing walls, which also cannot do without appropriate foundations. And for not too smooth surfaces, a plasterboard wall frame is often used to hide existing flaws. Thus, the frame profile is used almost everywhere as an additional guarantee of strength and durability. Now let’s move on directly to the practical part of implementing our plan.

Frame profile assembly algorithm

The first step will be right choice material, both for the frame and for the cladding. So, for example, in the bathroom it is more advisable to use a metal profile (since the humidity there is very high) and a certain type of gypsum plasterboard - moisture resistant. In a living room, to level the walls, you can use standard plasterboard sheets and wooden slats to construct the sheathing. When the materials have been selected and purchased, you can proceed directly to assembling the frame for drywall.
If you plan to finish both the walls and the ceiling, then work should begin from the ceiling. By the way, check in advance all communications that are carried out under the future structure. It is imperative to leave access to key components so that you don’t have to disassemble half the wall or ceiling if something happens. And the cable length reserve should be at least 10-15 cm, for example, from the mounted ceiling or walls.
Next, we will mark the surfaces for the profiles. It must be done using a level and plumb line. You can mark with an ordinary stationery marker, but these marks will still be covered later with sheets. It’s worth starting from the lowest angle of the ceiling. If only the walls are sheathed, then markings should begin with the windows.

Installation of a galvanized profile frame: the main stage

Next stage: how to attach a metal profile frame for drywall? Much in solving this problem depends on the material from which the sheathed surface is made. So on wooden walls(either from a sandwich or from SIP panels) can be secured with galvanized self-tapping screws of the appropriate length. But on concrete or slabs, in brick walls you will have to drill holes for special construction dowels. So you need to look at the situation and choose the most suitable fastener for the given case.

It should be remembered that in order to make a frame, the profiles themselves, if necessary, must be cut with metal scissors: this way the galvanization, which prevents the profile from rusting, will be least damaged.
When installing wall frames, it is advisable to carry out the work in order: first completely cover one wall, and then move on to the other.
After marking the wall, the marks left by the marker are connected from the floor to the ceiling, and profile guides can be attached according to the resulting lines. Step – 60 centimeters. This is due to the fact that the width of gypsum plasterboard is usually 120 cm, and each sheet when sheathing must be secured at least at three points. One of the profiles must be installed in the corner of the room.
Rack profiles are inserted into the guides and secured to each other. Do not forget to check the quality of work with a level so that the structure does not become distorted. We finally fix it with self-tapping screws, and the profile frame is almost ready for further work.

By the way, the “checkered” frame is considered the most durable, which also uses crossbars that are secured using special crabs.

As you can see, there are no particular difficulties in the question of how to properly assemble a frame for a gypsum board. You need to strictly follow the recommendations, and everything will definitely work out!

How to make a frame from a drywall profile

Without right assembled frame drywall will not last long. The strength and reliability of walls, ceilings, arches, shelves and other structures made of gypsum plasterboard, so beloved, depend on the frame professional builders and for amateurs.

To ensure that the repair does not turn out to be a trivial waste of money, competent implementation of the recommendations and advice of the experts on installing the frame is required.

Today, two methods of installing drywall using a frame are used - on a wooden beam and a metal profile. Each of them has advantages and disadvantages, but the right approach Using both methods, the desired end result is achieved.

Materials for profile frames

Timber is selected for work when there is excess wood good quality. Although it is believed that a frame made from it is cheaper, in reality this is not entirely true - wood becomes more expensive every year.

Timber as a material for a frame under plasterboard is used in rooms with moderate humidity and normal temperature conditions. It is dried well, and installation begins after treatment with an antiseptic. In this regard, the profile is more advantageous: it does not rot, it will not be beaten by shashel, it is not afraid of temperature changes, it will not get wet, crack or dry out.

A sheet of plasterboard on a frame made of timber holds tighter, since the screws cling to the wood with all the threads and fit more tightly. The profile version loses a little in this regard, but the issue can be resolved by installing self-tapping screws more often.

A timber frame is environmentally friendly, but a metal profile frame is durable, easier to install, and the material for it can be bought at any store. At the same time, elements of frame structures are offered in an assortment. You don’t have to invent your own - everything is standard.

Tools for constructing frames

When planning a frame from wooden slats, then prepare the following tools:

Saw.
Jigsaw.
Hammer.
Screws and nails.
Reiki - timber.
Metal corner.

Profile types

If the frame is made of a profile, then find scissors or a hacksaw. In any case, you cannot do without a level, plumb line, or rules. In addition, you will need:

Screwdriver;
Dowels;
Drill or hammer drill;
Self-tapping screws for metal;
Sealing tape;
Pencil or marker;
Connectors of different types;
Suspensions;
Profiles.

Installation of a wooden frame under plasterboard: an alternative to the profile

The cross-section of the beam must be no less than 40 by 70 mm for vertical and support slats and 30 by 50 mm for horizontal ones. Wood moisture content does not exceed 15%. Preferred material selection coniferous species tree.

Work begins with a sketch of a diagram indicating the location of the door and window openings. Then they calculate the required number of plasterboard sheets, after which they begin to install the sheathing support beams to the floor and ceiling.

Installation begins from the floor using dowels or nails if the house is wooden. The next stage is the installation of vertical struts, between which horizontal ones are then mounted. Vertical posts are installed in increments of 60 cm.

Above vertical racks horizontal ones are nailed, then vertical ones again, and so on. Horizontal ones are also placed in increments of 60 cm. Each row of sheathing is checked for verticality and plane with a level. Level the position bottom beam on the floor by placing pieces of wood. The correct position of the wall plane is also adjusted.

It’s easier to immediately assemble the frame directly on the floor of the room, if its size allows. In this case, its width should be 1 cm less than the actual width of the wall.

Metal frame elements

The basis is profiles - guides (UD) and carriers (CD). The first ones are needed to create the outline of the frame for drywall. They play the role of a “foundation” into which the supporting profile is inserted and secured, into which the gypsum board is already placed.

The guide profile is standard with a width of 2.5 cm and a length of 3 meters. It is important to pay attention to its thickness - the strength of the frame depends on it. The thicker one is suitable for walls, and the thinner one is suitable for ceilings. The supporting profile has wide shelf(6 cm), depth 2.5 cm and length 3 or 4 meters. It is produced from sheet metal of different thicknesses, which also affects the strength of the structures being constructed.

The rack profile is used only for the wall frame. Ceiling, corner and arched profiles are used in the construction of corresponding plasterboard structures. Arched with cutouts for easy bending. The width of these profiles varies from 5 to 15 cm.

The main types of self-tapping screws used in assembling frame structures are fasteners with a length of 9.5 mm (“fleas” - with sharp tips), 25 and 35 mm. It is recommended to take galvanized steel, that is, white.

Suspensions are used straight - U-shaped. They are also chosen with galvanization. There is also a so-called quick suspension. The design of this element allows you to adjust the height of the ceiling plane. Used exclusively when installing ceiling frames.

The connecting element is a “crab” or cross-shaped connector. It is used to connect transversely located profiles (crosswise). A straight connector is used to extend the rail.

Installation of a metal profile frame under gypsum boards

They start with markings. First, the position lines of the supporting profile on the floor and ceiling are determined and drawn. For this it is better to use laser level. The lines are spaced from the load-bearing surfaces by approximately 10 cm. The value depends on the thickness of the profile, sheet of drywall, communications, thermal insulation and curvature of the walls.

Now install the guide profiles. They are fastened with dowels in increments of no more than a meter. Next, mark the position of the supporting profiles on the wall. They are located every 60 cm.

If increased rigidity is needed, then the installation step should be reduced to 40 cm.

After this, hangers are installed. They start from the floor at a height of 15 cm and then upward in increments of no more than 1 m. Masters advise placing them every 60 cm. A standard wall 2.5 m high will require three or four hangers. They are also fastened with dowels, preferably with a size of 6x60 mm. Next, insert the vertical posts into the guides and secure them with small self-tapping screws (9.5 mm).

In the video you can see the option of assembling the frame for gypsum boards:

The next step is to tighten the thread, which will show how much each rack profile is extended or recessed into the plane. The threads are stretched between the outer posts at the level of the suspensions. It is necessary to adjust the position of the vertical profiles relative to the thread and screw them to the hangers. After this, the plane is checked using the two-meter rule.

The installation is completed by installing horizontal jumpers. They can be made from a rack profile. Start installation from the bottom. The first one should be 25 cm from the floor, the subsequent ones should be every 40-60 cm. During the installation process, the ears of the connecting “crabs” are immediately bent and screwed to the profile.

The frame is ready. Now they begin to install the slabs, then prepare them for finishing and cladding. The process is simple, but requires attention to detail and meticulousness. Only then will design ideas not be wasted. Whichever option you choose: wooden frame under drywall or metal, the main thing is to perform the installation carefully and slowly in order to align it evenly.

How to make a frame from a profile with your own hands

When working with gypsum boards, a variety of materials are used. More often, builders give preference to frames made of metal profiles. But there are also floors made of wood.

Some people prefer to use wooden floors due to the environmental friendliness of the material despite its shortcomings. These are: biological corrosion, flexibility to climatic influences and flammability. Special treatment will increase resistance to the listed influences. When making a wooden frame under drywall, you should know important points, which ensure reliability.

How to choose material for the frame

To build a partition with your own hands, use beams coniferous trees With various sizes sections, the choice of which depends on the method of cladding and the height of the partition being built.

Basic requirements, subject to which the structure will last longer:

The indoor humidity level is less than or equal to 18%;
For partitions whose height does not exceed 3 meters, the riser is a section of 6x5 cm, the sheathing is 6x4 cm;
For partitions over 3 m - sheathing and riser with the same cross-section, which is 6x5 cm.
The choice of gypsum board depends on the height of the partition. The ratio of the height and thickness of the sheet is directly proportional; the higher the structure, the thicker the gypsum board;
Regardless of the selected height, section and thickness, the step is 60 cm;
Treatment that reduces the ignition index of the material is carried out in accordance with the requirements of the first fire safety group;
Fastenings are made using nails, screws, and tenons. Using the latter type of fastener, the connection becomes stronger and will last longer;
Used for sound insulation mineral wool thickness not less than 5 cm and not more than 6 cm;
The thickness of the new partition with highest value 132 mm and the smallest – 85 mm;
The insulation index is calculated based on the selected partition thickness. It varies between 41 – 51.

Do-it-yourself drywall finishing: what you need to know, besides the rules for installing the frame

Before installation begins, the wood lies for a couple of days in the conditions in which the frame will be erected. During this time she will undergo acclimatization.

Chemical treatment is no less important than fire treatment. It is aimed at productively combating various factors of biological origin. Let's consider in detail:

Mold and mildew render the used lumber unusable, which is fraught with further destruction;
Natural decay - necrobiosis, decay. Antiseptic treatment prevents these natural processes;
Insects. Many species of these representatives of the fauna render the material unusable;
Rodents are no less dangerous. A special composition is able to repel them.

There are a variety of antiseptics chemical compositions. Due to its effectiveness, preference is given to sodium fluoride. It is a light gray powder that dissolves in hot water. The structure of the bars allows sodium to pass deep. An indisputable priority is the poor washability of the solution; it does not decompose, has no unpleasant odor, is non-toxic and does not have a corrosive effect on the metal.

Sodium fluoride is also used, to which soda ash is added. This combination turns the first substance into pure composition sodium fluoride.

Antiseptics with an oily structure are prohibited for use in residential premises. This:

Anthracene oils;

Shale;

Carboniferous;

Creosote.

They are toxic and can cause considerable harm to people.

How to assemble a wooden frame: not as reliable as a profile

Installation begins with tracing - marking. It is applied to the floors used for construction - walls, floors, ceilings. Initially, the gap where the partition will be placed is measured. The width of the gypsum board used is additionally measured from the intended line.

For these purposes, it is advisable to use a ceiling-wall line. Having marked the required point on ceiling, it is moved down, this can be easily done with your own hands using a plumb line. At the selected point, a nail is driven in, to which a plumb line is attached, and a mark is made at the opposite point where the plumb line points. Connecting the dots forms the first line. Then a perpendicular is drawn along the wall.

The resulting point, after drawing a perpendicular, is transferred to the ceiling using the same plumb line or bubble level. This creates the third line. The fourth is created by connecting two open points. As a result, a rectangle emerges, which acts as the basis for the partition.

Frame is a structure consisting of vertically and horizontally located beams and a frame. Its installation begins with the construction of the frame. The bars are fixed along the previously outlined lines. If the walls in the room are made of wood, then it is better to choose spikes or screws as fasteners. Otherwise it's screws and dowels. The frame is secured with brackets or hangers.

Installation involves the use of integral beams. Especially when it comes to a doorway. Wherever it is located (in the middle or near the wall), there must be solid bars on its sides. The holes are made with an impact drill used for concrete surfaces.

Wall frame made of profiles or beams: don’t forget about the door

After the installation of the frame is completed, they proceed to the construction of the opening for the door. In order for the work to be done with your own hands efficiently, follow the sequence of actions:

The risers are mounted on each side of the opening, taking into account the size of the door being installed. The opening is approximately 5 cm wider;
The risers are reinforced with bars to provide additional rigidity;
The horizontal partition is mounted a couple of centimeters above the box by connecting to a rail mounted on the ceiling. To do this, take two beams and install them vertically. They serve as a joining place for gypsum boards and provide greater rigidity.

The final stage of work

Installation requires a minimum spacing of 60 cm between the posts. If the size of the gypsum board is less than the height of the ceilings, install horizontal jumpers, which will serve as a place for attaching additional sheets.

Determine the location of the vertical jumper (above door frame) easily. It is enough to attach the installed gypsum board and put a mark. The edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the jumper.

For people who do the installation themselves, the craftsmen give advice: it is better to connect the beams with metal plates and corners, which are used during assembly rafter systems. They are reliable and can withstand heavy loads.

Frame installation of plasterboard is the most popular way to install suspended ceilings, partitions, arches and other structures made from this material.

Scheme of a metal frame for a plasterboard ceiling.

If the technology for working with gypsum boards is clear and mastered, then with your own hands you can do everything that your imagination is capable of in terms of reconstruction and decoration of the room.

But the most important thing is to learn how to make a frame for drywall. It is the basis of any design, so special requirements are imposed on its installation.

Materials and tools used to make the frame

metal profile:

Guide profile. It is represented by the product PN28/27. Used as a part that holds the rack and ceiling profiles on the same line.
Ceiling profile PP 60/27. It is used for mounting vertical and horizontal posts, various lintels and curved shaped structural parts.
Rack profile. Along the entire length of the product in the central part there are special grooves designed to make it much easier to attach the screws during installation of the structure. It can also be used for various types posts, lintels and curved parts.
The suspension is straight or shortened. It is a part intended for fixing the racks of their metal profiles to the walls and ceiling.
Single-level crab connector. Designed for fastening and strengthening assemblies of profiles crossed at right angles.
Various connectors for the profile, which are designed to join its sections.
Spring suspension. It will be needed if during installation suspended ceiling the structure will need to be lowered more than the use of suspensions will allow.
Self-tapping screws for metal SMM 3.5/51, which come in two types: sharp and with a drill-shaped end.

wooden blocks.

Frame diagram for plasterboard construction from wooden blocks.

Previously, drywall was attached to wooden frames. With the advent of metal profiles, the need to use bars disappeared due to the undoubted advantages of steel:

the metal profile frame is not subject to rotting;
it will not be damaged by wood bugs;
it does not absorb moisture and is not deformed as a result;
metal racks will not dry out, crack, or begin to creak over time when the floor moves;
the profile is many times more durable than wood, cheaper and has significantly less weight.

Therefore, it makes sense to install a wooden frame for drywall with your own hands if you have at your disposal sufficient quantity dry timber that has nowhere else to go. You can’t count on timber that is on sale: in the vast majority of cases it is freshly sawn and has high humidity. If a frame is mounted from such material, it will soon become deformed as the wood begins to dry and bend.

Tools for mounting the frame.

Tools that will be needed during the work:

Hammer or impact drill.
Battery powered screwdriver.
Levels: water, construction, laser.
Tape measure, marker, pencil, square.
Knife for cutting drywall.
Metal scissors or a grinder with a thin metal disc.
If you decide to make a frame from timber, you will need saws and a jigsaw.

Related article: Crafts from cardboard boxes: toys for children and ideas for the home (39 photos)

Technology for installing a wooden frame under plasterboard

This design is easy to make with your own hands. But the job can be done in two ways: soft and hard.

Diagram of a wooden frame for a plasterboard partition.

Hard installation method:

This is the oldest and simplest method with which you can correctly install a wooden frame. Work begins with markings. If the frame is needed for the ceiling, then a horizontal line is found and marked along the walls using a water level and a paint cord. Next, the ceiling is drawn along the lines along which the timber will be attached. The step between them is 40-60 cm. If the frame needs to be mounted for walls, then similar markings are made along them.
We begin to make the strapping with our own hands: the beam is attached along the contour of the surface that needs to be sheathed with plasterboard. If you plan to install a suspended ceiling, then the trim is attached along the marking lines to the wall. If a partition is being built or a wall is being leveled, then the bars must be fastened along the entire perimeter of the area being sewn with plasterboard.
The sequence of these works is as follows: along the entire length of the bars, in increments of 30-40 cm, holes are drilled, slightly larger than a nail, with which we will mark the walls. Wood planks are applied to the wall and using a nail and a hammer we get marks. These places are drilled out and plastic dowels 40/60 or 40/40, or regular choppers are inserted into the holes. Thus, we will make the strapping with our own hands.
We stretch a fishing line or thread between the bars, which will serve as a guide for installing vertical or horizontal posts.
In the same way as in the case of strapping, we correctly install the required strips.

Technology of “soft” installation of a wooden frame:

The main difference between this method of assembling a timber frame is the use of direct hangers: “U”-shaped brackets for working with metal profiles. Thanks to them, the speed of installation of structures increases significantly.
The hangers are attached along the marking lines for the racks in increments of 40-50 cm.
The bars are attached to them using suitable wood screws.
The technology for installing the frame is similar to assembling it from a metal profile.

How to make a frame from a metal profile for walls or ceilings

Marking the frame for a plasterboard structure: 1 - prepare a pencil, an angled ruler and a level; 2 - using a level and a pencil, make even markings for attaching the profiles; 3 - apply the profile to the markings and screw the profile to the floor and wall; 4 - to mark the place where the profile is attached, we use a plumb line; 5 - assemble the frame and check its evenness with a level.

Marking

To correctly perform this important stage of work, you need to understand two things: for the device interior partitions, niches, to level the walls, markings begin from the floor. The lines along which the PN 28/27 profiles will be attached are marked here. They must be strictly parallel, and the distance between them must be equal to the thickness of the partition or the distance from the base wall.

Related article: Second light in the interior of the house

Second step

Correctly transfer the markings from the floor to the ceiling. Here you will need a plumb line. With its help, we carry out the necessary projection of markings: several points are placed on the ceiling, which are combined into solid lines. Next, we calculate the location of the vertical racks for working with walls, and the horizontal ones for working on the ceiling. The pitch of the racks is 40-60 cm. On these lines we make marks along which we will mount the hangers. The distance between them is 40-50 cm.

Installing the guide profile PN 28/27

If we make a suspended ceiling from plasterboard with our own hands, then we attach the profile along the lines on the walls. They determine the height of the first level of the structure. You should check whether the markings are applied correctly and whether they correspond to the horizontal. If we are sheathing a wall, then we attach the guides along the lines on the floor and ceiling.

Installing a rack or ceiling profile

Use metal scissors to cut the posts to the required length. At the marking points for hangers, we drill holes for dowels or anchors. If you are installing a frame for a suspended ceiling, then under no circumstances should you use plastic dowels for quick installation. The fact is that plasterboard structures are quite heavy and over time the plastic screws will come out and the ceiling will become deformed. We insert the prepared racks from the ceiling or rack profile into the guides and fix them in the hangers with SMM 3.5/51 self-tapping screws. We bend the sides of the hangers (“whiskers”) to the base surface.

Technology for installing a metal profile frame for shaped elements

Technology for installing a metal profile frame for shaped elements: 1 - use metal scissors every few cm; 2 - applying it to the line, we begin to carefully bend it to the desired position and screw it on; 3 - dry bending of gypsum boards with cutting longitudinal cuts; 4 - screw the gypsum board to the frame.

First you need to learn how to bend the profile correctly. To do this, you need to draw a curved line on the walls, ceiling or drywall. Using metal scissors, we make cuts every 5 cm in the side walls of PP 60/27. Applying it to the line, we begin to carefully bend it to the desired position.

To install shaped elements: arches and various curved parts, you need to learn how to properly deform drywall. This will allow you to make high-quality cladding of the structure with your own hands. For these works, the gypsum board sheet must have a thickness of no more than 6 mm.

Wet bending of drywall. On one side of the sheet we do required quantity shallow punctures, about a third of the thickness of the material with a distance between points of 1.5-2 cm. Using a sponge or brush with soft bristles, we wet the surface of the sheet from the side of the punctures. We repeat the process until moisture is no longer absorbed by the plaster. We apply the plasterboard onto the pre-prepared template and fix it. After 12-20 hours, the drywall will take the desired shape and dry.

Dry bending of gypsum boards. This method requires care and precision. Longitudinal cuts are made on one side of the sheet, up to the depth of cardboard with reverse side GKL. These seams are milled. That is, using a sharp knife, chamfers are removed, the cutting angle of which depends on the bending diameter required to manufacture the desired part. The wider and deeper the grooves, the smoother and steeper the bend will be. After this, the drywall is attached to the template, and the cut grooves are cleaned of dust and puttied.

Smooth walls and ceilings look good with any interior style. The best material for leveling is sheets of pressed sawdust bonded with plaster. For convenient placement of lighting wires and other systems, use a drywall frame. It allows you to install insulation. A ventilated gap remains between the wall and the cladding, allowing moisture to escape outside.

Smooth walls and ceilings look good with any interior style

What does a metal profile frame give when installing it?

It's time for interior work in my friend's house under construction. It all started with the question, why make a frame for drywall. Vadik and I walked around the future living room. The room is huge. The walls are uneven.

Requires installation of several various systems life support:

ceiling light and spot light on the walls;
decorative lighting;
sockets and switches;
heated floor system;
fire alarm;
heating pipes;
ventilation.

Installation of support profiles

If necessary, insulation can be laid under the metal profile frame. I made a 3D model of a room on a computer with systems of pipes and wires placed. The result was a daring loft-modern style with elements of brutal avant-garde. This definition was given by my friend, a supporter of strict high-tech and a fan of the classical style.
A frame made of metal profiles for plasterboard allows you to perfectly align the ceiling and walls. Moreover, all angles are right. Installation of sheets and modification to a state where you can paint or wallpaper is simple. All work is done quickly and easily done with your own hands. My friend, a scientist, far from construction specialties, learned all the skills in the first room.

A frame made of metal profiles for plasterboard allows you to perfectly align the ceiling and walls

Types of profiles and purpose

Before purchasing a metal profile, you need to calculate the required length of each standard size. To make it easier to understand the purpose and types, Vadik made a table after my explanations.

Profile name	Symbol	Section shape	Place of application
guide	Mon	U-shaped	starting, placed on the floor along the perimeter along the walls
ceiling guide	PNP	U-shaped	along the perimeter of the wall under the ceiling
rack-mount	PS	C-shaped with reinforcement	installed vertically for mounting sheets
ceiling	PP	C-shaped with reinforcement	on the ceiling for ceiling installation
corner perforated	PU	L-shaped	sealing corners
pendants		U-shaped planks	walls and ceiling, profile mount
crabs		figured cross plates	rack profile connection

Profile for drywall

The drywall frame is secured with self-tapping screws. TO concrete slabs dowels. The length of the guides is equal to the perimeter of the room. They hold the structure and serve as its basis. Rack-mounted metal profiles are required most of all. Its length is equal to the height of the walls. Installation is done every 60 centimeters. To this you need to add corners, window and door openings, crossbars at the joints of sheets. Don't forget about cutting.

Installation of a vertical frame, taking into account lamps, wiring and ventilation

The installation of the metal profile on the ceiling began with determining the gap between the ceiling and the drywall. It is necessary to take into account the space for wiring, ventilation and the type of lamps. Horizontal lines were cut along the perimeter and a ceiling guide profile was attached to the walls. It will hold the frame of the future ceiling. The ends of the PP are inserted into it.
In a friend's living room we made a multi-tiered ceiling. So we marked everything out and I began to assemble the structure. For a simple suspended ceiling, parallel lines are marked at a distance of 60 centimeters. Markings are made along them and hangers are attached in increments of 50 centimeters. The ends of the profile are inserted into the guides on the walls, and the frame under the plasterboard is mounted to the perforated strips of the planks. Each section is verified by level. If there is no laser device, then the outer slats are placed according to the markings on the walls and the cords are pulled.
Having finished installing the profile, Vadik and I made markings for the location of lighting and other devices on the ceiling. Wires were connected to them. We will use them as a guide, sewing up the frame with plasterboard and making holes in the right places. We installed the cross members using crabs in a checkerboard pattern.

Installation of metal profiles on the ceiling

We install metal profiles on the walls

Using a level and a tape measure, we determined the size of the maximum protrusion and began to mark the perimeter for the wall sheathing. We immediately marked the locations of sockets and switches. We beat off the lines on the floor with a cord and began to fasten the guide profile with self-tapping screws. The bottom end will be inserted into it metal beams, it is the base for mounting the frame.
We marked the walls for the metal profile every 60 cm. The width of the plasterboard sheet is standard and is 120 cm. It should be fastened along the edges and the center. After this, we installed the hangers in half-meter increments. Vadik got the hang of it and easily drove the screws into brick walls. He confidently did the installation himself.

Frame made of metal profiles

The racks were screwed together. One checked the level, the second turned it. Then they installed the cross bars. The plasterboard sheet is 2.5 meters long. The height of the walls is greater. Where sheets join, they must be secured. Otherwise, cracks will soon form. The same types of profiles are used as on the racks.
Installation of drywall sheets on the frame is done offset. Therefore, one sheet is laid from the floor, the second from the ceiling. Then the remaining places are closed.

Laying drywall on metal profiles

How to trim openings and install racks

When installing drywall, cutouts are made in the sheets at the locations of windows and doors. The edges must be attached to the profile. Therefore, after marking the wall with vertical lines, a level line was drawn above the windows. This is the lower limit of finishing.

Windows and doors were made the same way:

Additional racks were installed on the sides of the walls, leaving 5 centimeters for the slope.
We measured and cut to size the rack metal profile that will be located above and below the window.
The crossbars were secured using crabs. They were joined by vertical ones above the opening. We leveled it and screwed it to the hangers.
The lower part of the rack was fixed similarly in the crossbar under the window sill.

The doorway at the bottom has a threshold, so the profile was attached to the sides and top.

GKL, like finishing material, is widely used not only for internal, but also for external work. But the technology for constructing a frame for drywall is somewhat different in different situations, and the configuration of the profiles used in a given case is also different.

Below we will look at the types metal frames and sheathing, and also watch a video on the installation of some of them.

What and how are frames for plasterboard made of?

First, let's see in what places the frame can be installed under drywall. The three main places where such a structure is installed are walls (sheathing), ceilings and partitions.

Each of these designs can be simple (classical) or have increased complexity, including niches, figures and arches, but this already relates more to the field of design, although, of course, it does not do without the technical side of the issue.

Mainly from CD profile a frame is manufactured for plasterboard on the ceiling and on the walls (lathing). The galvanized profile is 60 mm wide and 27 mm thick (side height), and its length is either 3 or 4 meters. The edge of the side is profiled (this can be seen in the photo above), which gives the CD additional rigidity.

The UD profile is identical in length to the CD profile, but its width is 27 mm (CD is inserted according to its thickness), the height of the side is also 27 mm. It is used for edging around the perimeter, and also, if you are interested in how to assemble a frame under a wave, then the bending is done using such a profile or UW. The profile edge is not profiled.

CW profiles are mainly used for partitions and have different widths– it can be 50 mm, 75 mm and 100 mm. The thickness (side height) is fixed and is 50 mm for any width. The length can vary, for example the CW-50 from Knauf can be 2600 mm, 2750 mm, 3000 mm and 4000 mm.

UW profiles are designed to hold CW and are installed around the perimeter of the frame, which is most often used for partitions, and if you are interested in how to assemble a frame for plasterboard for the attic, then this is just what you need. The width of the UW, of course, corresponds to the width of the CW and comes in 50 mm, 75 mm and 100 mm, all other sizes (thickness and length) are also identical to the CW.

To assemble the frame with your own hands when connecting the profiles to each other, use small self-tapping screws 11 mm long, which are designed for steel thickness up to 2 mm. The screws are screwed in using a screwdriver attachment marked PH-2.
Third-party fittings are also used for mounting frames, these are hangers various types, screws and dowels, as well as molly. When assembling structures, wooden blocks and boards can be used to strengthen them, as well as thick tape to dampen sound (for example, on the UW or UD profile sole, installed on wooden floor a strip is glued to prevent the frame from ringing).

Now let's figure out how to properly assemble a drywall frame to level the wall. First of all, you need to determine the most protruding point of this plane and, guided by it, use a paint cord (chockline) to mark a line on the floor - it will serve as the boundary for the inside of the UD profile. Now you need to transfer this line to the ceiling - lift it along the walls using a level, and connect it on the ceiling with the same paint cord - you have a control marking for edging with the UD profile.
Now you need to screw the UD around the perimeter with dowels and screws. If the rough surface is dense enough (brick, cement-sand plaster), then you can use impact dowels, but if you have to attach the guides to limestone, concrete floors or lime plaster, then use a dummy dowel with a screw 1-2 mm thinner than the outer diameter of the dowel. Even if the instructions (sometimes included with profiles) talk about using impact dowels, still use the second option.

Now let’s mark the wall vertically every 30 cm - these lines must coincide with the central axis of the profile, so that for each whole gypsum board there are 4 load-bearing ones. Using these vertical marks, screw the U-shaped hangers 50-70 cm apart to mount the CD.

Now all we have to do is cut the CD profiles to the required length and insert them into the upper and lower UD, and the side (vertical) UD will serve as load-bearing profiles. To make the plane level, apply a rule or a long level across, taking the vertical UDs as a guide (fix the profiles to the hangers and to each other with small cuts).

Advice. The frame can be insulated by laying mineral wool or polystyrene foam between the profiles - the price of the structure will increase, but the wall will not only become warmer, but will also not buzz when accidentally hit.

Frame for partition

Now it will be clearer to you how to properly assemble a frame for sheathing with plasterboard under a partition, because the principle remains the same. First of all, use a paint cord to mark off the perimeter in the place where the partition will be located, and along this line, screw the UW profile of the width you need - exactly the same way as you screwed the UD for the sheathing.

Now all you have to do is cut the CW to the required length and insert them into the UW, screwing them in with self-tapping screws, as shown in the photo above. If you are interested in how to install a frame under drywall in a corner, you can use the same partitions.

If there is a door in the partition, then make a perimeter for doorway from UW, just put wooden blocks of suitable width inside for rigidity. In the same way, you can strengthen the profiles for hangers or wall cabinets, but also secure thick boards between them.