How to properly insulate a veranda from the inside and from the street - we keep the heat in the extension. Insulating the veranda - expanding the living space with our own hands Insulating the ceiling of an extension to the house

Everyone who has a country house, no matter whether it’s a simple country house or a respectable cottage, eventually gets the idea that it wouldn’t be a bad idea to enlarge it a little usable area. Some people need a garage, some are ready for a bathhouse, while others are simply missing a few square meters to install a small vestibule in front of the entrance to the house. Everyone's goals are different. But in the vast majority of cases, there is only one way to achieve these goals: this is the construction of a small one-story extension, closely adjacent to the main building.

And, what is very surprising, but nevertheless a fact - all home owners want to complete this extension as quickly as possible (before summer is over). And everyone, in a hurry, makes the same mistakes. One of the most common mistakes, or rather, avoidance, is the installation of poor-quality thermal insulation of the attached room. This error is truly widespread, and can be explained very simply. Not all summer residents and gardeners, by virtue of their profession, are involved in construction, and therefore, in the summer, forgetting about the need to insulate the walls of the room is a piece of cake for them. The most interesting thing is that everyone who, for some reason, did not insulate the walls of a wooden extension during construction will still have to do it sooner or later, and therefore will have to spend time collecting and studying the relevant information. Therefore, if you feel that the construction of your extension is not far off, take a couple of minutes and read this article to the end.

So, we are learning how to insulate the premises of an already erected extension.
First of all, it is necessary to determine how the room will be insulated - from the outside or from the inside. Modern building materials and technologies make it possible to do both. However, in relation to the dacha sector, the simplest and most economical option is internal insulation. With that, we’ll decide - we’ll insulate our extension from the inside.

The next step is choosing insulation. For an extension, a sufficient thickness of insulation is 50-75 mm. The most favorite type of insulation among summer residents is mineral wool slabs. I will not waste my and your precious time on detailed review the corresponding segment of the domestic market building materials, but I’ll immediately point out those manufacturers who produce the best (in terms of price-quality ratio) thermal insulation materials based mineral wool:

• "ISOVER";
• "Rockwool";
• "URSA"
• "Izorok."

Price per 1 sq. m of mineral wool insulation from the above manufacturers is in the range of 65-90 rubles.

We sorted out the insulation. But insulation alone is not enough. Here is a list of other materials that will be needed for the internal insulation of our extension:

1. Wooden blocks (slats) rectangular section size 5x2 cm;
2. Pasted waterproofing (film or membrane), necessary to protect the insulation from moisture. The cost of waterproofing is approximately 20-40 rubles per 1 sq. m. m.;
3. Gypsum plasterboard sheets (GKL) 9.5-12.5 mm thick for external finishing cladding of insulated walls. average cost- 70-80 rub. for 1 sq.m.;
4. Profiled and fastening metal elements(for making a frame and fastening gypsum board sheets);
5. A little putty to seal the joints between plasterboard sheets.

The materials are complete. All that remains is to mount them correctly. The procedure for properly insulating an extension is as follows:

• Lathing installation: we nail it to the inner surface of the walls and ceilings of our room wooden blocks or boards (see item 1 of the list of materials) with a step of 50-75 cm (the step size is equal to the width of our heat-insulating boards);
• Installation of insulation: we lay mineral wool slabs along the sheathing of wooden blocks (both on the walls and on the ceiling);
• Waterproofing device: the surface of the installed insulation boards over the entire area is covered with waterproofing (see paragraph 2 of the list of materials);
• Installation of the frame for gypsum boards (see paragraph 4 of the list of materials): on top waterproofing coating We install horizontal and vertical metal profiles on walls and ceilings, which will subsequently support the outer plasterboard sheathing;
• Covering walls and ceilings with gypsum plasterboard sheets (see clause 3 of the list of materials);
• Sealing joints between sheets of drywall with putty, followed by cleaning;
• Finishing the inner surface of walls and ceilings (optional): painting, tiling or any other type of finishing to your taste.

That's all! The total cost of materials for insulating the premises of a wooden extension with an area of ​​3x4 m and a height of 2.7 m is approximately 8-10 thousand rubles.

In order to insulate an extension to your house, you will need good thermal insulation material. Optimal solution for internal and external insulation - mineral wool boards. They are excellent for insulating walls and floorboards, have good thermal conductivity, are moisture resistant, durable and inexpensive. For interior work you need insulation with a thickness of 50-70 mm.

List of required materials:

1. Waterproofing film to protect insulation from moisture.
2. Fasteners and metal profiles for frame construction and plasterboard cladding.
3. Wooden slats with a section of 5 x 2 cm.
4. Plasterboard sheets for final wall cladding with a thickness of 9.5 to 12 mm.
5. Putty for processing seams between plasterboard sheets.

Warming stages:

• Creation of lathing for attaching thermal insulation. On the surfaces to be insulated, we fill prepared slats or boards with a distance slightly less than the width of the insulating panels.
• Installation of insulation. We place mineral wool between the bars. So are the walls.
• Waterproofing. We cover the entire insulated surface with a vapor barrier membrane, overlapping the edges. We fix the film with staples on the sheathing bars.
• Frame for plasterboard sheets. We fasten vertical and horizontal metal profiles, creating a frame for the final cladding.
• GKL covering. We install drywall on the walls and ceiling.

• Note. In principle, instead of drywall, you can use other material for sheathing. It could be wooden lining, plywood, OSB or GVL. Choose what suits you best in terms of external and internal characteristics.
• Processing of joints. Using putty, we cover the joints between the plates and clean them.
• Cosmetic finishing. The finished surface can be painted, covered with wallpaper, tiled or any other finishing materials.

Features of insulating walls made of certain materials

Walls made of foam concrete blocks are warm due to the huge number of air bubbles contained in the foam concrete, but additional insulation work cannot be done, otherwise heating costs will be too high. Insulating the outside is much more expensive because it requires cladding. Proper insulation walls from the inside suggests good vapor barrier and ventilation of the insulating layer on both sides.

It is recommended to avoid highly absorbent, fibrous, moisture-permeable insulation materials. These measures are necessary to reduce humidity in the extension and prevent freezing of the walls. When installing insulation, it should be taken into account that cold penetrates into the room through the joints.

Mineral wool is not suitable for foam concrete blocks; expanded polystyrene sheets require additional joining. The best insulation such walls - spraying polyurethane foam. It prevents the formation of condensation. For education required thickness Wooden sheathing should be used for the insulation layer. Metallic profile creates cold bridges. A waterproofing layer is secured on top of the foam with slats, and then drywall is attached. The dew point is located at the point of contact between the polyurethane foam and the foam block extension or inside the polyurethane.

Expert opinion

Sergey Yurievich

A brick extension is insulated in the same way, but the insulation layer for brick walls is larger.

The disadvantages of spraying polyurethane are the high price and the need to attract special equipment and trained specialists.

Insulating the walls of a frame extension from the outside

We do external insulation of an extension to a frame house according to the same principle as internal insulation. First, a vertical frame of wooden beams is placed on the walls. The distance between the boards should be about 50 cm, slightly less than the width of the insulation. Mineral wool blocks are tightly inserted between the beams, which are covered with a layer of waterproofing. The film is strengthened with staples around the perimeter of the frame. At the final finishing stage, the surface is covered with siding.

Outside or inside, which is more effective?

Advantages of internal insulation

• insulate the ceiling, floor, walls in one step;
• work can be performed in any weather conditions;
• simplicity - insulated surfaces are available throughout the entire height.

Disadvantages of internal insulation

Expert opinion

Sergey Yurievich

Construction of houses, extensions, terraces and verandas.

The freezing point during internal insulation shifts into the wall, which contributes to its faster destruction. In addition, if the extension room already has finishing, decorative coating will have to be dismantled.

Advantages of external insulation

• displacement of the freezing point in the insulation, due to which the rate of destruction of walls decreases;
• internal living space extension is preserved;
• no waste from construction work indoors;
• the possibility of using the extension during work, the way of life is preserved;
• additional protection wooden walls from getting wet.

Disadvantage of external insulation

Expert opinion

Sergey Yurievich

Construction of houses, extensions, terraces and verandas.

You will not be able to observe the condition of the walls, since they will be hidden behind decorative cladding.

Insulation of concrete floor

List of materials you will need:

• insulation – mineral wool boards;
• vapor barrier;
• scotch;
• damper tape;
• reinforcing mesh;
• screed solution.

Stages of insulation

• On concrete base a layer is applied vapor barrier film. The insulation joints must be carefully taped to ensure the overall tightness of the layer.
• On top waterproofing material Insulation boards are laid. It is important that the blocks fit tightly to each other, there are no gaps or cracks left.
• The entire perimeter of the room is covered with damper tape. This is necessary to compensate in case of expansion of the screed.
• Another layer of vapor barrier and then a reinforcing mesh is applied on top of the mineral wool insulation.
• The screed is poured. Its thickness should be at least 3 cm.
• After the surface has completely dried, any topcoat is applied.

Floor insulation on beams

List of materials - what you will need:

• wooden boards, logs;
• insulation;
• vapor barrier coating;
• clay mortar;
• plywood.

Stages of work

Secure to floor beams cross beams smaller size. Lay the boards on the joists with rough, continuous flooring to prevent heat from escaping. Coat the coating with thick clay mortar, wait until it dries and apply a layer of vapor barrier on top. Place insulation boards between the joists and cover it with another layer of vapor barrier. Cover the surface with boards or plywood on top. On the resulting wooden floor Lay the decorative covering to your liking.

Roof insulation

To properly insulate the roof of an extension to a house, the following principle should be observed: all layers of the insulation cake must provide moisture insulation with outside and vapor permeability from the inside. For thermal insulation of roofs, polystyrene foam, penoplex, and polyurethane foam are used, but mineral wool and other fiber insulation in combination with membrane films for removing water vapor are best suited.

Types of insulation - features, characteristics

1. Mineral wool. It has low thermal conductivity, is fireproof, durable, flexible, and resistant to temperatures and chemicals. In addition, mineral wool insulation provides good sound insulation. Cons: a frame is required for installation, after some time of operation it becomes compacted and loses its thermal insulation properties.
2. Polyurethane foam is produced in three types: flexible, dense, sprayed. Polyurethane foam is easy to install, lightweight, and resistant to biological and chemical environments. Cons – expensive price, gets old quickly ultraviolet radiation, is deformed from mechanical stress, has a low vapor permeability, which is why it accumulates moisture, which has a detrimental effect on the walls of the house.
3. Penofol is environmentally friendly, flexible, and easy to install. The material has low vapor permeability and high combustion resistance. Cons: thin, overly soft. Expanded polystyrene has low weight, sufficient rigidity, and is easy to install and cut. This is a very durable, wear-resistant material. Cons – can’t stand it high temperatures from 100 degrees, has low soundproofing qualities.
4. Basalt wool – fibrous material, according to its properties and operational characteristics identical to mineral wool. Disadvantages - during operation it becomes compacted, which increases thermal conductivity.
5. Foam plastic is light and hard, does not lose its operational properties even after prolonged use, it can be mounted either frameless or frame method. Insulation with low vapor permeability and hygroscopicity. Cons: flammable, loved by rodents.
Ask a question to an expert

When insulating an extension with your own hands, it is always better to start with the walls. How to insulate an extension, whether it will be external or internal insulation, depends on the size, characteristics of the room and the personal tastes and preferences of the homeowners. The insulation process itself does not take much time, and the cost of materials for such work will not hit the budget.

Still popular among construction companies. Usually, there is a desire to build additional buildings for such houses that would emphasize the individuality of the building. Frame extension to a wooden house can, in principle, be erected independently, but for this it is necessary to have construction skills and follow the rules and sequence of work.

To avoid any unpleasant surprises with the extension in the future, several issues need to be considered during its construction:

• Selecting material for the extension

Most best option- This metal carcass, then covered with wood. It is also necessary to immediately think about what kind of wood (color) the veranda cladding will be made of so that it matches general style Houses.

• Foundation

Basically, extensions are built after the construction of the entire house is completed, so it is necessary not only to build a foundation for the veranda, it is also desirable to ensure that both foundations are solid.

• Drawing up an extension project

You cannot start building a veranda without a design plan, as this can then not only spoil the external image of the entire house, but also affect the service life of the veranda. It is necessary to think over the layout, dismantle old buildings if necessary, ensure a good approach to the construction site, think through, etc.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the veranda of a wooden house

Since the veranda will be the place where noisy groups will gather, family conversations will take place during tea drinking, etc., it is necessary to think about how to ensure the preservation of heat inside the room during the cold season.

The first step in the process of insulating the veranda is. The most popular and popular view The insulation is polystyrene foam and mineral wool.

IMPORTANT: In order for the effect of insulation to be as noticeable as possible, a layer of penofol must be laid between the walls of the veranda and the insulation layer.

Since a frame extension to a wooden house usually has a plank floor, it must be insulated.

Warming the veranda floor

The floor must be puttied and painted with paint with frost-resistant additives. After painting, an underlay layer of penofol is laid on the floor, and a layer of insulating material is placed on top. Floor insulation can be made from natural materials (cork, granular insulation, cellulose) and artificial materials.

The floor can be insulated with bulk (expanded clay, slag, foam glass), sprayed (ECO wool, penoizol), self-leveling (polymer mixtures), rolled (mineral wool, linoleum) or tiled (foam glass, glass wool, gypsum fiber sheets) materials.

Since the floor in verandas is usually made of joists to which boards are attached, it is necessary to ensure that insulation is laid between the joists. To do this, you need to carefully remove the boards from the floor, lay them out between the joists, lay a vapor barrier layer, and then nail the boards back.

IMPORTANT: The insulation must adhere to the joists as tightly as possible. The height of the insulation should be several millimeters below the floor level. Such a gap will ensure air circulation so that moisture does not linger inside (this will protect the floor from the appearance of fungus and rotting).

Insulation of veranda walls

To insulate the walls of the veranda from the inside, you can use not ordinary insulation materials (foam plastic, mineral wool), but sheets of plasterboard. Their installation is very simple, it is fastened quickly, especially since its cost is low.

Since insulating a veranda in a wooden house with plasterboard sheets involves the construction of a sheathing, its basis can be not only metal, but also wooden frame. Insulation (foam plastic, glass wool) is placed between the sheathing, and the sheets of plasterboard themselves are attached using ordinary screws to the sheathing profiles.

If you insulate the veranda with only mineral wool, then it must be treated on top with penofol to ensure the required level of vapor barrier.

One more simple material PENOPLEX can be used to insulate the veranda. Such sheets are attached to the walls with glue. If you use PENOPLEX, then there is no need to carry out a vapor barrier, since the material already has good characteristics waterproof. The insulation is then applied on top thin layer plaster, which is pasted over with wallpaper or simply painted in the desired color.

From the outside, the walls of the veranda are insulated in the same way: the sheathing is attached, the cavities between the sheathing profiles are filled with a moisture barrier and insulation, and then they are attached facing materials. A frame extension to a wooden house is usually built outside decorative panels or siding.

It is rare that during the construction of a house it is not insulated. Even if insulation materials are not used at the time of construction itself, the possibility of insulating the walls inside the house, and...

In harsh climates, owners try in every possible way to insulate their house or cottage. For example, a veranda is installed to protect the front door. This is a kind of vestibule where the mixing of cold street air and warm air from interior spaces. But when insulating a house, they don’t always take into account that a veranda wouldn’t hurt either. additional insulation. Otherwise unheated room will freeze and become damp, causing the finish to quickly become unusable. With the right approach, the veranda is insulated during the construction stage. But it happens that the house was not built, but bought, and not in the very at its best. In this case, insulation of the veranda from the inside is carried out with your own hands as necessary. The main thing is to know in what places the cold “creeps” into the room and take all possible protective measures.

Usually the veranda is placed on the same type of foundation as the main building - monolithic concrete or concrete plates. This material does not block the cold that comes from the ground in winter at all, so it can freeze through. Heat loss through the foundation reaches 20%.

Options for how to insulate the base summer veranda, maybe several.

Filling the interior with earth or expanded clay

These options are only possible at the stage of constructing the veranda, when foundation work is underway. After removing the formwork, the entire internal area is covered with earth or expanded clay. Land will be cheap, especially if there is a lot of excess soil left during construction. True, its heat saving quality is low.

Expanded clay layer prevents moisture and frost from penetrating into the concrete slab

Expanded clay has higher thermal insulation, but you will have to buy it. You can make a double layer: first fill it with soil, and the second half with expanded clay pebbles.

Pasting with polystyrene foam

For Russian lands, where 80% of the soil is heaving, external insulation of the foundation with expanded polystyrene is necessary. When thawing and freezing, such soils expand in volume and can deform the foundation. The insulation layer will become an insulator, which will relieve the base from direct contact with the ground, and will also block frost. Expanded polystyrene boards are used to cover the entire outer surface of the concrete, including the base.

For insulating a veranda with your own hands, the following are suitable: polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam and liquid polyurethane foam. All these are varieties of polystyrene, which differ in properties and method of application. The cheapest one - Styrofoam. It retains heat well, but will crack on moving soils. In addition, polystyrene foam draws moisture from the ground, so when installing it, an additional waterproofing layer is created (from the soil). Extruded polystyrene foam Due to its dense structure, it does not absorb moisture, is not afraid of soil movements, has high frost resistance and lasts for more than half a century. But it is expensive.

Before gluing expanded polystyrene, it is necessary to cover the entire foundation with waterproofing mastic

Both versions of polystyrene are laid on the outside of the foundation, excavating it to the very foundation. In this case, the first row is placed on a gravel bed. Before laying, the foundation is coated with bitumen-polymer mastic (for waterproofing), and when it dries, polystyrene foam boards are glued on. The glue must be polyurethane. It is applied in dots or by smearing the entire sheet. The joints between the plates are also glued so that there are no cold bridges and cracks for moisture penetration.

The newest way external insulation – polyurethane foam spraying. It is brought to the construction site in the form of liquid components and sprayed onto the foundation using special equipment. After hardening, the coating becomes dense, monolithic and very durable. In terms of characteristics, this material is not inferior to its extruded “brother”, but the cost of work is more expensive.

With sprayed insulation, the most best quality thermal insulation because there are no joints

To keep your feet from getting cold: floor insulation

Besides the foundation, the floor is closest to the ground. Its insulation is mandatory if you do not want to see black spots of dampness in the corners.

Most often, concrete floors are poured on verandas. If you plan to heat the veranda using a “warm floor” system, then you should take care of it already at the stage of pouring the subfloors. It's better to choose electrical system, which you will turn on as needed. A water floor can be very low temperatures freeze, and you will have to wait until spring for it to thaw, or dismantle the coating to warm up the pipes.

If you were lying on the veranda old tiles, then you can put the insulation directly on it

Let's look at how you can insulate the floor on an unheated veranda:

1. The entire underground floor is covered with crushed stone, and on top - with sand and compacted tightly.
2. Lay out reinforcing bars or mesh (so that the concrete does not burst) and make concrete screed 5 cm thick.
3. When the filling is dry, we create waterproofing. The easiest way is to coat the screed with water-repellent mastic. But it’s cheaper to lay sheets of roofing felt and fasten them together using bitumen mastic(or warm it with a burner and roll it out).
4. Antiseptic-impregnated logs are installed on top of the waterproofing, and insulation is laid between them. The best option is mineral wool with a foil-coated side. Foil does not let you out of the veranda infrared radiation, along with which it evaporates most of heat. Rolls of insulation are placed after all the joists are installed.
5. It can also be insulated with polystyrene foam. Then the joints between the plates must be blown out polyurethane foam, and when it dries, cut off the excess.

After this, planks or decking are laid, because both materials are warm. The board must be treated in every possible way to prevent rotting and painted. protective composition. Besides, natural wood very afraid poor ventilation. To avoid dampness, it is necessary to make ventilation vents in the foundation, which should be located below the floor level.

The insulation is placed with the foil facing up so that it reflects the heat back into the veranda

Decking does not require ventilation in the underground, because it is not afraid of dampness and temperature changes

Decking is also a board, but already treated with compounds at the factory. It is made from larch, which is not afraid of either frost or moisture. This material is used to line open terraces, so it’s even more suitable for the veranda. True, the cost of such a floor will not be cheap.

We install thermal protection for the walls

At the walls big square contact with the street, so let’s look at how to insulate a veranda with your own hands from the outside and inside. External insulation is carried out if the wall material looks unpresentable. Those. it could be blocks, old wood, etc.

External insulation

a) For wooden walls:

1. We seal all the cracks in the building.
2. We place a vertical sheathing of beams on the tree in increments of up to half a meter. It is better to measure the width of the insulation and fill it exactly to its size. Then all the slabs will fit tightly to the sheathing.
3. We insert mineral wool between the beams, securing them with dowel umbrellas.
4. We fix the waterproofing film on top with a stapler.
5. We finish with clapboard or siding.

After laying the mineral wool, you need to staple the waterproofing film to the sheathing

b) For block walls:

1. Glue on the walls polystyrene foam boards with a special adhesive composition, additionally strengthening the dowel-umbrellas.
2. We smear the same glue on the top of the slabs and attach the reinforcing mesh to them.
3. After drying, cover the walls with decorative plaster.
4. Let's paint.

Pick up adhesive composition specifically for laying polystyrene foam boards

All layers of the insulation cake are hidden under decorative plaster

Let's insulate ourselves from the inside

If the veranda looks aesthetically pleasing from the outside and you do not want to change it appearance, then internal insulation can be carried out. But, before you insulate the veranda from the inside, you need to carefully caulk all the cracks (in a wooden building).

Work progress:

1. They stuff the sheathing.
2. Fix the waterproofing film with a stapler, which will prevent moisture from the street from entering the insulation.
3. A metal frame is mounted from profiles, onto which drywall is then attached.
4. Fill the frame with mineral wool.
5. Cover the insulation with a vapor barrier film.
6. Installing drywall.
7. Apply the finishing coat (putty, paint).

The distance between the metal profiles must match the width of the insulation sheets

We check the tightness of the installation of windows and doors

Large heat losses can come from windows and doors. If there are old ones on your veranda wooden windows, but you do not want to replace them with double-glazed windows, then you need to thoroughly check their tightness:

• First of all, we pay attention to the quality of the glazing of the veranda: to do this, we pull each glazing bead.
• If they are cracked or loose, it is better to remove all the glass, clean the grooves and coat them with silicone sealant.
• Then we insert the glass back and apply sealant along the edge.
• We press with glazing beads (new!).

Go over the joints of the frame and the window opening with a regular metal ruler. If in some places it passes freely, then these cracks must be sealed with polyurethane foam. Check the front door in the same way. If you bought an uninsulated option, you will have to insulate the canvas yourself inside and upholster with leatherette.

Seal the glass on both sides with sealant to make it windproof.

All places where the ruler moves freely must be foamed

Eliminate leakage of warm air through the ceiling

It remains to figure out how to insulate the ceiling, because through it wooden veranda evaporates Substantial part heat. Especially if it opens Entrance door. The flow of cold air rushing inward instantly squeezes the warm air upward.

Most the best option– place foil-coated foam polymer between the beams, which will simultaneously retain heat and keep moisture out.

You can also choose mineral wool, but then the first layer is roofing felt for vapor barrier, and insulation boards are placed on it.

Ruberoid is laid under mineral wool for waterproofing

After such careful insulation, your veranda will withstand any frost, even if it is unheated.

Or verandas on suburban area– an excellent solution for creating additional living space that can be used throughout the year. Before insulating the veranda, it is necessary to think through the main points of the work: type of insulation, thermal insulation material, location for installing the insulator, etc. Insulation can be done both from the inside and from the outside.

Insulation from the inside is considered the most effective.

In this case, work can be carried out in any weather. In this case, you can use the same thermal insulation materials for walls, floors, and ceilings. At the same time, if the veranda has already been made and is not under construction, then the existing coverings will need to be dismantled. In addition, the freezing point will shift inside the wall material, which will negatively affect its performance characteristics.

At the same time, many experts are in favor of external insulation, who note that when carrying out work outside the veranda in a private house, the area of ​​the room will not be reduced. In addition, the freezing point will be shifted into the thermal insulation material, which will allow the walls to accumulate heat.

When installing external insulation, it will be necessary to ensure high-quality protection of the insulation from moisture and atmospheric phenomena, since almost all modern insulators are susceptible to the negative effects of humidity and temperature changes.

What materials can be used to insulate a veranda?

On modern market presented great amount the most different types thermal insulation materials having different characteristics and prices. The most common ones used in suburban construction, are the following:

• Penofol. If you ask a builder about how to insulate a veranda, he will most likely talk about penofol. Penofol is a modern thermal insulation material that is used separately from other insulators or together with them. Penofol is suitable for insulating various buildings in country house. It's environmentally friendly pure material with a minimum degree of vapor permeability, which can be installed with your own hands.
• Styrofoam. Probably one of the most popular insulation materials. Distinctive features: minimum weight, rigidity, stable performance over many years of use, ease of installation, the ability to install with or without a frame. But polystyrene foam is susceptible to fire and is also attractive to rodents. At the same time, when using this material there is no need to make an additional layer of waterproofing.
• Expanded polystyrene. A modern insulator that has all the advantages of foam insulation, as well as good strength characteristics and ease of processing. Among the disadvantages, one can highlight only low sound insulation performance, however, they are usually not required on verandas. Not flammable.
• Mineral wool. The most popular insulation that can be used everywhere in a private home. Well suited for insulating a veranda for winter use of the premises, but only in combination with other insulation and waterproofing. To install mineral wool slabs, a frame is required. In addition, after several years of operation, the material will begin to lose its density, which will lead to a loss of insulation properties.
• Basalt wool. Almost a complete analogue of mineral wool, although from an environmental point of view it is safer.
• Polyurethane foam. This is one of the most modern and effective insulation materials On the market. It can be produced in the form of slabs, panels, or applied to insulated surfaces using special equipment. Advantages: light weight, resistance to any natural and chemical influences, high thermal insulation properties, amazing durability (more than 40 years). The main disadvantage of this material is its high price.
• Linen, tow, moss. These traditional insulation can be used only in cases where it is necessary to insulate a veranda in a country house made of timber, as well as caulk cracks at the joints. They cannot be considered as a complete thermal insulation material.

The choice of insulation or several insulators will depend on many factors: materials for constructing the veranda, the desired level of insulation of the room, the dimensions of the structure, etc.

It is worth noting that a truly warm veranda, for year-round residence, it will only work if high-quality insulation in combination with glazing and heating.

Warming the veranda floor

You can insulate the veranda floor in different ways. The two most common methods of carrying out work should be considered.

In the first case, it is necessary to completely dismantle the finished covering of the room, reaching the subfloor (concrete, beams, etc.). After this, it is necessary to completely cover the surface of the subfloor using expanded clay (or its analogues). Then, if there is space left, you can lay insulation boards, attaching them to the floor beams. Finally, the final flooring is re-laid.

Floor insulation with expanded clay.

The second method also involves dismantling flooring, however, work can be performed using it. If work is carried out according to available wooden floor, then in the future its surface will become rough. First of all, bars measuring 50x50 are installed on the logs or on the rough surface (depending on the chosen method), then the vapor barrier layer is laid. Insulation is placed on the vapor barrier layer (mineral wool slabs can be used). Laying is done in such a way that between wooden beams and there were no cracks or gaps left with the insulation. Existing gaps and cracks can be closed with construction foam.

Floor insulation with slabs.

We again cover the insulation material on top with a vapor barrier, turning the foil part inside the veranda. It is recommended to close all resulting joints with construction tape. Finally, the finished floor covering is installed.

In some cases, to ensure maximum thermal insulation floor, the foundation of the veranda is insulated, but often this is not required.

Insulation of the ceiling and roof of the veranda

It is difficult to imagine insulating a veranda from the inside with your own hands without creating a thermal insulation layer on the ceiling surface. The principle of work here is approximately the same as in the case of the floor. The main difference is that all installation work canopy, which involves some difficulties, so it’s better not to do it alone.

The first method of insulating the ceiling of a veranda in a country house involves the use of a frame. Dismantling is carried out first ceiling covering, after which a waterproofing film is installed on the rough surface of the ceiling. If soft thermal insulation materials are intended to be used, then a frame can be made for them from timber, as a result of which an insulator can be mounted between the beams. After laying the insulation, it must be covered again over the entire area with a waterproofing film. The final finishing of the ceiling in this case is performed with plasterboard sheets or wooden lining.

The second method involves the use of polyurethane foam and rigid types of thermal insulation materials. Installation of insulation materials in this case occurs directly on ceiling surface, after which it is completely covered with putty.

In order for the putty to hold as securely as possible, it is necessary to cover the foam with a metal mesh.

Insulation of veranda walls

The insulation of a veranda very often begins with the creation of a thermal insulation layer on the walls. In this case, work can be done both inside and outside. A variety of thermal insulation materials listed above may be suitable for insulating veranda walls. Experts recommend not insulating the walls of the veranda using the existing finish - it must be removed before work, attaching the insulation to the rough surface of the walls.

Insulating the veranda with ecowool from the outside.

When insulating walls (no matter from the outside or the inside), it is recommended to protect the thermal insulation using a waterproofing layer, for which modern waterproofing films are perfect. If slab insulation is used, then it is necessary to existing walls a small frame made of wood that will hold them in place.

Frame insulation of the veranda from the inside.

All gaps and cracks that will be formed between the insulation and wall material, it is necessary to caulk it with jute or fill it with polyurethane foam.

The most important thing is that there are no gaps through which cold air from the street will penetrate into the room.

Is there enough insulation?

If the veranda is intended to be used and maintained all year round comfortable temperature V winter time, then the insulation of the veranda must be carried out together with high-quality glazing of the room and the installation of heating elements. Heating the veranda can be done by the most different ways: installation of traditional radiators, installation of electric heaters, installation of “warm floors”, etc.

The choice here is quite large. But the main thing is compliance with safety regulations.

When choosing traditional radiators, the heating project will have to be coordinated with regulatory government agencies.