How to preserve sprouted rose seedlings before planting. Winter purchase of rose seedlings and their storage before planting

Time, as always, flew by unnoticed, and now it’s time to get seedlings again. One of these days they should send me roses. It’s March, but it’s impossible to go out into the garden - the snow is knee-deep. What to do? How to best preserve seedlings before planting?

Storing roses with bare root system

If you purchased seedlings with an open root system, in excellent dormant condition, then try to keep them that way until planting in the garden. To do this, you need to create an optimal storage temperature for them. For such seedlings, according to various sources, the recommended temperature is from -4°C (if the buds have not moved beyond the green cone) to +2...+3°C. In such conditions, your rose will continue to sleep.

Storing awakened rose seedlings

What to do if your seedlings have already buds or even decent sprouts have already appeared? The main thing in such a situation is not to panic! There are several storage options that can save such plants.

The first thing to do is to provide such seedlings with a vertical position. If they are stored lying down, then new sprouts will certainly rush upward, as Mother Nature tells them, and when you plant such a rose in the ground, the sprouts will find themselves in a horizontal, unnatural position. The shoot will tend to straighten out and grow crooked.

If you have to keep them for some time before planting them in the ground, it is best to remove strong shoots on such seedlings. These shoots suck out the accumulated nutrients in the roots and stems, and the likelihood that these shoots will not disappear is negligible.

If the seedlings have not begun to grow shoots, that is, they are in a dormant state, they can be placed in the refrigerator door. Kraft paper or a bag with holes is placed on the “head” of the young plant. Once a week, the seedling is sprayed with water from a spray bottle.

In this form, plants can be stored for 1-2 months. If the temperature in the refrigerator is kept at 1-3°C, the seedlings will be dormant. But if it is 5-6°C (this happens most often), they will begin to grow and produce pale shoots. You shouldn’t be afraid of this: the stems will turn green in the light.

If the seedlings already have sprouts, they are planted in pots. Many gardeners use 5-liter plastic water bottles as containers, but experts do not recommend planting roses in them. Firstly, bulky, heavy containers will be problematic to transport to the dacha. Secondly, the roots will not have time to entwine the entire volume of the bottle, and when transplanted, the lump will fall apart, and this is bad for the plants. Most best option- plant roses in 2-liter pots and long containers for branded seedlings.

A pot with a rose planted in it is held on glassed balcony. At the same time, it is important to monitor the temperature - if it drops below 0°C, the seedlings must be brought into the house. And you cannot keep plants in the sun - they must stand in the shade.

With this option of overexposure, the roses seriously increase in size, and by the time they are planted in open ground, they are already bushes that are almost full of buds.

However, it is not recommended to plant them directly from the balcony into the garden. Roses should be hardened off first. To do this, starting in April, they open the windows on the balcony for a short time, and then generally keep them wide open.

This method has only one drawback: roses growing on the balcony are often affected by spider mites. To prevent this from happening, roses must be sprayed with water every day, and before planting permanent place, for prevention, treat the bushes with an anti-mite agent (Fitoverm or Actara).

Preserving roses in the snow

Professionals consider this method to be the simplest and most reliable (for those who do not have a glazed balcony or loggia). Moreover, both dormant and sprouted seedlings are suitable for such overexposure. In the latter, you just need to break out the longest shoots.

All seedlings are placed in a cardboard box and covered with peat. At the dacha, they choose the darkest corner where the snow lasts the longest, but in the spring there is no stagnation of water and no puddles form. The box with seedlings is covered on top with a non-woven covering material (for example, lutrasil) and covered with snow. The end result should be a large snowdrift. To delay the melting of snow for a week, spruce or pine branches are placed on top of the snowdrift.

With this method of overexposure, seedlings are not afraid of any cold. Even if frost hits, there will always be about zero in the box under the snow.

True, the snowdrift is unlikely to last until mid-May (it is at this time that it is customary to plant roses in open ground), so roses preserved in this way will have to be planted earlier, as soon as the snow melts. And so that the area where you plan to plant the plants has time to warm up and dry out, you need to rake off all the snow from it.

Roses planted early will need to be protected from frost.

What to do before boarding

If the seedling is sold in a bag, then when planting it must be unfolded, shake off the soil and inspect the roots. It often happens that in the package the roots are either folded in half or twisted around the main root. They must be straightened. At the same time, remove all rotten ones.

This procedure does not need to be done only for roses from the Kordesa and Tantau companies - their seedlings are packaged in a protective net, and the roses are planted directly in it in a permanent place. Over time, it will dissolve in the soil and does not interfere with the development of the plant.

Is it possible to keep plants on a windowsill?

The fact is that rose roots grow well at a temperature of 10-15°C. And the plant itself needs cold nights and high humidity air. In apartments with central heating it is usually very hot at any time of the day. In such conditions, the rose begins to actively grow shoots, the roots cannot keep up with them. And as a result, the seedling dies. This happens almost always. But even if by some miracle the seedling survives until mid-May, it will probably dry out in the garden or eke out a miserable existence.

Is it necessary to remove wax from shoots?

Flower growers know that rose seedlings, as a rule, have shoots filled with wax - it protects them from drying out. And there are two opinions about whether it needs to be cleaned. Some believe that it does not interfere at all, others are sure that the stems under the wax can get stuck.

In fact, it all depends on how heavily the seedlings are covered with wax. If only the tops of the shoots and cuts are filled with it, then the protection does not need to be removed. But if the seedling is filled with wax all the way to the roots, and besides, the thickness of the protective layer is 1-2 mm, then it must be carefully removed with a toothpick. Do this immediately before landing. When keeping the seedling in the refrigerator, on the balcony or in a box under the snow, there is no need to remove the wax.

BY THE WAY

Starting from mid-April, rose seedlings with an open root system go on sale. Before planting, it is best to store them on the balcony in a bucket of water - this way they can last up to two weeks.

You can plant roses with large sprouts in containers. This is the most unpleasant option for them. After all, you can plant plants in the garden only when the threat of frost has passed. They will need to be protected from the bright sun and drying wind, because they grew up in greenhouse conditions. And it’s not a fact that hardening and protection from sunburn will lead to success.

Remember! Pre-planting in pots is not the most desirable option!

But if the roses have already begun to grow, then for a while before planting in the ground we plant the seedlings in pots, still trying to restrain the growth with low temperatures. Later you will also have to arrange for them to be illuminated with a fluorescent lamp. After all, the day is still short, and there will be little natural light for them.

Before planting, you need to straighten the curled roots, cut off rotten and broken ones, refresh the ends and lower them deeper into the water. If the roots have been dried, then they should remain in water for a day or at least overnight, and certainly not less than 3-4 hours.

I sometimes kept my roses in water for several days. And it didn't hurt them. But among those that I planted before without soaking, many died. It is better to replace the water for soaking with a solution of sodium humate the color of strong tea or weak coffee (instant).

The ends of ground shoots need to be trimmed back to living tissue, especially if they have been damaged or moldy. After this, it is a good idea to treat the seedlings with Previkura solution at the rate of 25 ml per 10 liters of water.

After soaking, roses can be planted in containers with prepared soil. If the sprouts of the seedlings are quite large, they need to be shortened; small ones can be left alone. Planted in high containers, the root collar is left at soil level or slightly higher. That's all.

Now the roses need to wait for sustained warmth. They can most likely be planted in the ground in June. But then, when planting, the seedlings will need to be buried 5-7 cm.

Roses will bloom all summer long if planted this way.

Sources: 7dach.ru; kem.kp.ru

ADVICE: I bring a rose from the store, and, first of all, I put the pot in water (about two liters of water) and let it sit for half an hour or more. I take the rose out of the pot and lightly, without damaging the roots, shake off the soil. I am replanting it in a larger pot. I use commercial soil for roses or a universal one.

But the most important thing: after transplantation, it is necessary to spray frequently, the more often the better. When I have such an opportunity, it’s up to 10 times a day. Thus, even discounted, almost half-killed plants took root. When warm days come, I plant roses in the garden, in the flowerbed. It is necessary to cover with non-woven material from the sun for a week.

Roses feel great in the garden, even overwinter under good cover.

30.04.2019 15:27 Anastasia Pavlova

30.04.2019 14:29 sia wrote a message in the topic "":
I planted two varieties of two bulbs each, and in the spring one variety grew very weak and small shoots with one dead flower at the top. In another variety, one bulb sprouted more than a meter high and there were beautiful flowers 8 pieces, and the other bulb never showed any signs of life. I decided that they died, and this spring all the bulbs “woke up” and gave strong shoots, and the one that didn’t wake up last season gave two powerful shoots. The bulb apparently grew itself and divided. The same thing happened last season with bulbs OT hybrids. So everything will be fine, we have to wait a little (season). Clear. In general, I read about martagons that they do not bloom right away. But I also remember that their lands come out very early, so I’m waiting. I'm afraid to trample.

30.04.2019 13:42 Olushka wrote a message in the topic "":
Let's share delicious recipes. Favorite recipe for chicken with potatoes: Ingredients Chicken legs - 6 pcs Onion - 2 pcs Soy sauce - 100 ml Potatoes - 6 pcs Carrots - 3 pcs Garlic - 2 cloves Sesame seeds - 30 g Salt, pepper, turmeric - to taste Marinate the meat in advance For cooking Wash the chicken breasts, sprinkle with salt, pepper and turmeric. Cut the onion into half rings. Mix in a deep bowl and pour in soy sauce. Mix everything, cover with film...

30.04.2019 13:19 IRINAF wrote a message in the topic "":
I planted two varieties of two bulbs each, and in the spring one variety grew very weak and small shoots with one dead flower at the top. In another variety, one bulb sprouted more than a meter high and had 8 beautiful flowers, but the other bulb never showed any signs of life. I decided that they died, and this spring all the bulbs “woke up” and gave strong shoots, and the one that didn’t wake up last season gave two powerful shoots. The bulb apparently grew itself and divided. The same thing happened last season with OT hybrid bulbs. So everything will be fine, we have to wait a little (season).

30.04.2019 13:12 kosch wrote a message in the topic "":

So, you bought the desired variety of rose and, as usually happens, in advance - in February or March: what if by the planting date the right variety it won't happen anymore! How to save purchased roses before planting?The regular author of the Gardener's Bulletin talks about this,presenter of the Rose Garden-online forum Alexey STEPANOV.

There are several methods of overexposure, which depend on your appetites and conditions, and most importantly, on the condition of the seedling itself.

Keeping roses in the refrigerator and planting them in the ground

If you have moderate appetites and have bought everything several seedlings (at the same time dormant and not sprouted), then You can store them in a regular refrigerator , placing the seedling on the door. For stability, you can secure it with tape. Craft paper or a bag with holes is placed on the head of such a seedling, and periodically (once a week) the seedling is lightly sprinkled with water. Maximum term overexposure in the refrigerator for 1 to 2 months. Optimal temperature overexposure from 1 to 3 degrees Celsius. In many refrigerators, the temperature is 5 degrees Celsius, which is too much for a rose; in such a refrigerator, the seedling will slowly begin to grow roots and produce white shoots. In principle, I don’t see anything wrong with this for roses; later they will turn green in the light.

When can you plant a rose from the refrigerator into the garden? for a permanent place? The answer is simple: when the snow melts and the ground thaws as long as the earthen ball of the seedling is. There are years when the ground under the snow in the spring is not frozen at all, especially in plantings covered for the winter with spunbond (Lutrasil). In this case, the seedling can be planted on the site already in mid-March , the main thing is not to forget to cover it with a double layer of spunbond from night frosts and return frosts. Never be afraid to plant roses early in the ground, you just need to remember one axiom: The sooner you plant a rose in the garden, the better for it . In this situation, the rose seems to wake up in a new place, immediately begins to get used to the new conditions in which it finds itself, and practically does not lag behind in development from those roses that spent the winter nearby.

Of course she is early boarding This is only possible if you have prepared holes for roses in the fall or if there are free spaces somewhere in the flowerbed. If there is no space and you need to dig new holes, then, of course, planting dates are postponed by at least 2 weeks , until the ground completely thaws and dries out, so that the planting hole can be prepared. Also in March you can temporarily bury a rose seedling into an old rose garden, in which roses are already overwintering, under lutrasil, followed by replanting in April-May to a permanent place, if a permanent place for it is not yet ready.

Holding roses on the balcony

If you have insatiable appetites and you plant 30-50 seedlings per season, then there can be no talk of any kind of refrigerator: so many seedlings simply won’t fit into it. In this case, it will come to the rescue glazed balcony or loggia. You can store seedlings on a glazed balcony throughout February and March, provided that street temperature will not drop below -17-20 degrees . This is done like this - all the seedlings are placed in a large, durable cardboard box, which can be placed in a larger box for thermal insulation, placing foam plastic between the walls. A foam sheet, if available, can also be placed underneath to prevent the seedlings from being chilled by the concrete floor. Instead of polystyrene foam, you can lay an old unnecessary blanket.

All seedlings lying in the box are sprinkled with store-bought soil (you will need quite a bit of soil a large number of, one package may not be enough). Required condition - the box is placed not against the window, but right next to the warm wall of the apartment. Next, the box is closed and wrapped on all remaining sides with spunbond (Lutrasil) in several layers. To keep warm, you can also put an old blanket or fur coat on top, which you don’t mind. Even if the temperature outside is -15 degrees, the temperature in the box will be about -2-3 degrees, which is optimal for storing sleeping roses. It's okay if the ground in the box freezes a little. If you are afraid that you will freeze your roses, in severe frosts a couple of times a day or in the evening, you can open the balcony door and let them in warm air from the apartment, during the day the balcony itself will heat up due to the early spring sun. Once again I emphasize that this method is good only for dormant seedlings , sprouted seedlings with more sprouts 1.5 cm You can't store it like that.

I’ll say right away that It is no longer possible to make the seedlings “fall asleep” again , you can only slow down their development. What to do with already sprouted seedlings? The choice is small - if the sprouts have sprouted strongly and stretched out, you should not regret them and need to break them out. In this case, the sprouts that have not reached approximately 3 cm, you can leave it. Such seedlings can still be placed in the refrigerator for a while in order to hold out until the end of severe frosts and plant them in pots in March.

Planting rose seedlings in pots

Planting seedlings in pots followed by keeping them on a closed balcony - this is the third option for keeping roses. I think this method is quite good: in seedlings the growing season begins earlier and by the time they are planted in the garden, these are already almost blooming rose bushes or rose bushes that have picked up buds. Of course, you need to understand that planting roses in pots and sending seedlings to open balcony at the beginning of March it is impossible, but nothing bad will happen to them on a glassed-in balcony. Many rose growers prefer to plant purchased seedlings in 5-liter trimmed containers from drinking water, I don’t recommend doing this. Firstly, with such containers it is difficult to get to the dacha, even if you have a car. Secondly, the roots do not have time to entwine such a volume of soil in 2 months, and often when transplanting from 5-liter canisters, the earthen lump falls apart, which will inevitably affect the well-being of the rose.

I always plant seedlings in 2-liter narrow and long containers from branded seedlings of Tantau, Meyyan or Guillot, that is, I reuse their containers. The depth of this container is enough to accommodate a long rootstock root, and the volume is enough for the seedling to develop normally for 2 months. True, sometimes it happens that even this depth is not enough to completely fit the root into the pot; in such cases, the root can be trimmed a little, but not twisted. It's also not scary if the graft will rise above the level of the pot by a few cm. Later, when planting it in the garden, you will deepen it, as expected, along with a lump of earth.

Such grown seedlings can be planted in a permanent place no earlier than mid-May, when the threat of severe frosts has passed (weak roses are not afraid). By this time, a strong, healthy seedling has grown young roots that entwine the entire earthen ball in the pot, and the rose can easily be transplanted to a permanent place without damaging the root system. Usually the rose does not even notice such a transshipment and continues to grow as if nothing had happened.

The advantage of keeping roses in pots Another advantage of keeping them on the balcony is that during the planting season you do not need to rush into planting, but can systematically, during May-June, prepare planting holes and gradually plant these grown plants in them.

Already in May, all the seedlings planted in pots can be transported to the garden and kept in a trench in the garden bed, or you can leave them at home, under your supervision. Disadvantage of balcony overexposure The problem is that these roses are highly susceptible to the appearance of spider mites, which then, after being transported to the garden, can spread to all roses. To prevent this from happening, roses on the balcony must be spray with water from a spray bottle , and when transporting to the dacha, it is necessary to preventively treat the seedlings with an anti-mite agent (necessarily with acaricides, acrex, isofen, fitoverm); ordinary insecticides do not act on ticks. Development indoor mites inhibits spraying cold water once or twice a day on the surface and with reverse side leaf.

To all that has been said, I just want to add that Balconies on the north side of the house are not suitable for keeping seedlings , which are not exposed to the sun at all. In addition, to painlessly transplant a rose into the garden, you need to gradually accustom it to sun rays, starting in April, briefly opening the windows on the balcony. From mid-April, when night frosts stop, it is generally better to keep the seedling on an open balcony.

I strongly do not recommend planting roses in pots and keeping them on the windowsill in a heated apartment , this is the worst way to overexpose. To take root, the rose needs a “cold start”; its roots grow well at temperatures from 10 to 15 degrees Celsius. Moreover, the rose outdoor plant, and it needs cold nights and high humidity. At high room temperature and strong dry air, the “tops” begin to actively grow, but at this temperature the roots cannot keep up with their growth and the rose eats itself. The necessary conditions It is almost impossible to create roses in an apartment for a proper cold start, so planting them on a window usually always ends in failure for the seedling. Even if by some miracle it can be preserved until the summer, then when transplanted into natural conditions it still dies or drags out a stunted existence.

About rose seedlings in a bag

Another important point– if the purchased seedling is in a bag, then when planting you need be sure to unwrap it and inspect the roots . It often happens that in a bag the roots are not just folded in half (roots up), but also twisted around the main root. The root must be trimmed, all rotten ones (black or brown when cut) must be removed. Healthy roots should be cream-colored when cut. The same recommendations apply to seedlings that are planted directly into the garden under cover. It is not necessary to unpack and inspect the roots only for packaged Kordes and Tantau seedlings; they are usually located in a metal protective mesh; with the same mesh, you can plant the seedling in a permanent place; it will subsequently dissolve in the soil. If the seedling is sold in a plastic container, then there is no need to inspect the roots; the manufacturer has already prepared it for planting.

About the wax with which the seedlings are filled

Many people argue whether it should be removed? There are two opposing opinions on this matter. Some believe that it does not interfere at all, others believe that the stems under the wax begin to rot. In fact, it all depends on the degree of wax coverage of these seedlings.

If the seedling has only the tops of its shoots and cuts covered , then you don’t have to remove such wax (especially since you will still be updating the cuts when planting). If The entire seedling is filled with wax to the roots and its thickness is 1-2 mm, then I always remove such wax. In addition, such a seedling drenched in wax has hidden all stem defects, (which is very beneficial for sellers): dried or blackened shoots may be hidden under the wax, or, even worse, diseases of the stems or bark cancer (infectious burn of the stems). Cleaned off wax will immediately reveal all these defects. The most convenient way, for example, is to remove wax from a seedling using toothpicks, carefully running it along the entire length of the seedling, as if opening the wax, and then carefully removing it along the entire length. But you need to free the seedling from wax immediately before planting it in a permanent place or in a pot. When keeping the seedling in the refrigerator or in a box on the balcony, there is no need to remove the wax, because it perfectly protects the sleeping seedling from excessive drying out.

Overexposure of roses by digging into the snow

I consider this method of overexposure to be the simplest, and it is also the best for those who do not have balconies: digging seedlings into the snow at the dacha . For this overexposure, both dormant seedlings and already sprouted seedlings are suitable (but the long sprouts of the strongly sprouted ones must be broken off). We put the seedlings in a cardboard box or a plastic box; for better preservation, they can be sprinkled with purchased peat. At the dacha, the darkest corner is chosen, the one where the snow lies the longest (usually on the north side of the house or garden buildings). The main thing is to remember that in this place in the spring there is no stagnation of water and no puddles form.

You need to dig a hole in the snow, put a box in it, cover it with a piece of lutrasil and cover it with as much snow as possible - you should get something like a large snowdrift. To delay the melting of snow for another week in this place, you can throw spruce or pine spruce branches on top. With this method, the seedlings are not afraid of any sudden frost, even 30 degrees, the temperature under such a snowdrift will still be about 0 degrees. In April you will see your roses in the same form in which you “put them in storage.”

Simultaneously with burying roses in a snowdrift, it is advisable free from snow the place where you plan to plant them: then the ground will thaw and dry out faster, which will speed up planting. Some rose growers advise placing the box not on the ground, but burying it in a hole. I like this method less, since the hole can fill with melt water in the spring, and the seedlings will lie in dampness.

Rose seedlings with open root system (ROS)

A few words about seedlings with open root system . They usually arrive in mid-April dormant and only need a few days to keep them there until planting. Most The best way- This is to place such seedlings on the balcony in a bucket of water. In this case, the sections need to be updated, the roots must be carefully examined, and also trimmed to a light-colored tissue. According to my observations, seedlings easily tolerate prolonged soaking in a bucket for up to 2 weeks, with no unpleasant consequences not happening.

To conclude the topic, I want to add the main thing, something that any gardener in our country should remember. Do not let yourself be deceived by uneducated or dishonest sellers; in our climate (except for the very south of the Krasnodar Territory and the Black Sea coast) there are no non-covering roses! Anything that you buy that is called a rose and not a rosehip will still have to be covered. In the difficult year of 2010, even the conventionally non-covering varieties of roses - Grootendorst, Hansa, Hansaland - outwardly similar to double rose hips, and they froze to ground level. Under properly made shelters, even hybrid tea roses. Massively sold Canadian roses, about which they write that their winter hardiness is down to -40 degrees (without mentioning that this is subject to a half-meter layer of snow on top), will freeze in our climate already at -25 degrees in the absence of snow cover. However, a large number of gardeners successfully grow gorgeous roses in your gardens, you just need to know some of the secrets of their agricultural technology, starting with how to choose and preserve roses before planting. Now we know these rules.

Alexey STEPANOV , photo by the author.

An equally important task is how to preserve rose seedlings until planting in the spring, if you purchased the planting option in advance or stocked up on cuttings from adult plants grown on your own plot. The speed of establishment of the bushes in a new place depends on how correctly the storage conditions for rose seedlings are met before planting.

How to choose the right rose seedlings for planting

Planting rose seedlings in the spring can be done either with planting material sprouted from cuttings or by grafting onto rose hips.

Grafted plants (especially hybrid tea roses) under conditions middle zone Russia is developing faster, but you will have to remove it in a timely manner root shoots, growing from the root of the rootstock (it is not cut, but pulled out).

U own root roses bushes are usually more compact and neat. Grafted roses already form a developed bush in the year of planting and bloom profusely, while self-rooted roses, which are sold in the form of rooted cuttings, will reach full strength only in the third year. Grafted roses are much more powerful, but are significantly more expensive: for the same money you can buy three or four rooted cuttings. Their other advantage is better winter hardiness: a young rose has three-year-old roots that penetrate deeply into the soil, and the plant survives even when the surface layer is severely frozen. However, the winter hardiness of a rose depends not only on the depth of root penetration, but also on the variety.

Own-rooted cuttings are usually sold with a closed root system - in containers. This significantly extends the timing of their planting and facilitates the process of adaptation to a new location.

How to choose rose seedlings for planting in open ground? When choosing seedlings, it is recommended to give preference to world-famous manufacturers. Unlike unknown selection, the quality of their products is time-tested and supported by reviews from real customers. Origin planting material from large nurseries is the key to their excellent adaptation to new growing conditions, luxurious flowering, and most importantly, the correspondence of the variety and its qualities.

Where and how to properly store rose seedlings before planting in spring

There are several ways to store rose seedlings before planting in the spring, all of these methods depend on the condition of the planting material.

The first question is where to store rose seedlings before planting at home? If you have only a few dormant and not sprouted seedlings, then you can store them in a regular refrigerator, placing them on the door. For stability, you can secure them with tape. Before storing rose seedlings until planting using this method, they are covered with kraft paper or a bag with holes. Once a week, the cuttings should be lightly sprinkled with water. The maximum period for this method of preserving rose seedlings before planting is from 1 to 2 months. The optimal overexposure temperature is from 1 to 3 degrees Celsius. In many refrigerators, the temperature is 5 degrees Celsius - in such a refrigerator the plant will slowly begin to grow roots and produce white shoots.

How else can you store rose seedlings before planting in the spring, without worrying about their subsequent germination? Pricking cuttings into the snow at the dacha is the easiest way to preserve them. Both dormant and already sprouted cuttings are suitable for this overexposure. We put the cuttings in a cardboard box or in a plastic box; for better preservation, they can be sprinkled with purchased peat. At the dacha, the darkest corner is chosen, the one where the snow lies the longest - usually on the north side of the house or garden buildings.

How to properly store rose seedlings before planting them in the snow? You need to dig a hole in the snow, put a box in it, cover it with a piece of lutrasil and cover it with as much snow as possible - you should get something like a large snowdrift. To delay the melting of snow in this place for another week, you can throw spruce or pine spruce branches on top. With this method, no sudden frost, even 30 degrees, is scary; the temperature under such a snowdrift will still be about 0 degrees. In April, the cuttings will be in the same form in which they were “put in storage.”

At the same time as burying plants in a snowdrift, it is advisable to clear the place where you plan to plant them from snow: then the ground will thaw and dry out faster, which will speed up planting. Some rose growers advise placing the box not on the ground, but burying it in a hole.

Preserving purchased rose seedlings until planting in March

If there is a lot of material, then a glazed balcony or loggia will come to the rescue. You can store plants throughout February and March, provided that the outside temperature does not fall below -17-20 degrees.

All seedlings are placed in a large, durable cardboard box, which can be placed in a larger box for thermal insulation by placing polystyrene foam between the walls. A foam sheet, if available, can also be placed underneath to prevent plants from being cooled off by the concrete floor. Instead of polystyrene foam, you can lay an old unnecessary blanket.

The cuttings lying in the box are sprinkled with earth. A prerequisite is that the box is placed not against the window, but close to the warm wall of the apartment. Next, the box is closed and wrapped on all remaining sides with spunbond (Lutrasil) in several layers. To keep warm, you can also put an old blanket or fur coat on top.

Even if the temperature outside is -15 degrees, the temperature in the box will be about -2-3 degrees, which is optimal for storing dormant plants. In severe frosts, a couple of times a day or in the evening, you can open the balcony door and let in warm air from the apartment - this will save the plants from freezing. This method is only good for dormant cuttings; sprouted cuttings with sprouts larger than 1.5 cm cannot be stored this way.

If the sprouts have grown strongly and stretched out, you should not feel sorry for them and should be broken out. In this case, sprouts that have not reached approximately 3 cm can be left. Such cuttings can be placed in the refrigerator to hold out until the end of severe frosts and plant them in pots in March.

If the purchased cutting is in a bag, then when planting it is necessary to unwrap it and inspect the roots. It often happens that in a bag the roots are not just folded in half (roots up), but also twisted around the main root. In the process of caring for rose seedlings before planting, the root must be trimmed, and all rotten roots (black or brown when cut) must be removed. Healthy roots should be cream-colored when cut. The same recommendations apply to cuttings that are planted directly in the garden under cover. It is not necessary to unpack and inspect the roots only for planting material if it was purchased at a nursery or famous manufacturer- they are usually located in a metal protective mesh, with the same mesh they can be planted in a permanent place, subsequently it will dissolve in the soil. If the cutting is sold in a plastic container, then there is no need to inspect the roots; the manufacturer has already prepared it for planting.

You can plant purchased rose seedlings as early as March, the main thing is not to forget to cover them with a double layer of spunbond from night frosts and return frosts. Never be afraid to plant rose seedlings in early spring into the ground - the sooner you plant a plant in the garden, the better. The plant seems to wake up in a new place and immediately begins to get used to the new conditions in which it finds itself; it practically does not lag behind in development from those that overwintered nearby.

Early planting is only possible if the holes have been prepared in the fall or there are free spaces in the flowerbed. If there is no space and it is necessary to dig new holes, then, of course, the deadlines are postponed until the ground completely thaws and dries out - so that the planting hole can be prepared. Also in March you can temporarily dig it into an old rose garden, under lutrasil, followed by replanting in April-May to a permanent place.

Treatment of rose seedlings and planting in pots

For cuttings, the growing season begins earlier and by the time they are planted in the garden they are already practically flowering bushes or bushes that have gathered buds. You can’t plant them in pots and send them to an open balcony in early March, but nothing bad will happen to them on a glassed-in balcony. Many rose growers prefer to plant purchased cuttings in 5-liter cut containers containing drinking water - this is not recommended. Firstly, with such containers it is difficult to get to the dacha, even if you have a car. Secondly, the roots do not have time to entwine such a volume of soil in 2 months, and often when transplanting from 5-liter canisters, the earthen lump falls apart, which will inevitably affect the well-being of the plants, and they begin to get sick or do not take root at all.

2-liter narrow and long containers are best. The depth of this container is enough to accommodate the long root of the rootstock, and the volume is enough for the cutting to develop normally for 2 months. True, sometimes it happens that even this depth is not enough to completely fit the root into the pot; in such cases, the root can be trimmed a little, but not twisted. It’s also not scary if the graft rises a few cm above the level of the pot. Later, when planting it in the garden, you will bury it, as expected, along with a lump of earth.

Such grown cuttings can be planted in a permanent place no earlier than mid-May, when the threat of severe frost has passed. By this time, a strong, healthy cutting has grown young roots that entwine the entire earthen ball in the pot, and the plant can easily be transplanted to a permanent place without damaging the root system. Usually the plant does not even notice such a transshipment and continues to grow as if nothing had happened.

The advantage of this method of keeping them on the balcony is that during the planting season you do not need to rush into planting, but can systematically, during May-June, prepare planting holes and gradually plant these grown plants in them.

Already in May, after planting rose seedlings in pots, you can transport them to the garden and keep them buried in the garden bed, or you can leave them at home, under your own supervision. The disadvantage of balcony overexposure is that these plants are highly susceptible to the appearance of spider mites, which then, after being transported to the garden, can spread to all the roses. To prevent this from happening, the plants on the balcony must be sprayed with water from a spray bottle every day, and when transporting them to the dacha, be sure to preventively treat the seedlings with an anti-mite agent (always acaricides, acrex, isofen, phytoverm); ordinary insecticides do not affect ticks. Before planting, treating rose seedlings with cold water once or twice a day on the surface and on the back of the leaves prevents the invasion of indoor mites.

Balconies on the north side of the house, which do not receive the sun at all, are not suitable for overexposure. In addition, for a painless transplant into the garden, you need to gradually accustom the plant to the sun's rays, starting in April by briefly opening the windows on the balcony. From mid-April, when night frosts stop, it is generally better to keep the plant on an open balcony.

Planting cuttings in pots and keeping them on a windowsill in a heated apartment is the worst way to overexpose them. To take root you need a temperature of 10 to 15 degrees Celsius. In addition, the outdoor plant requires cold nights and high humidity. At high room temperatures and very dry air, the “tops” begin to actively grow, but at this temperature the roots cannot keep up with their growth and the plant eats itself.

It is almost impossible to create the necessary conditions in an apartment, so landing on a window usually always ends in failure. Even if by some miracle it can be preserved until the summer, then when transplanted into natural conditions it still dies or drags out a stunted existence.

If only the tops of the shoots and cuts are covered with wax, then you don’t have to remove such wax - you will still renew the cuts when planting. If the entire cutting is filled with wax down to the roots and its thickness is 1-2 mm, then it is better to remove it.

In a wax-filled cutting, all stem defects are hidden - dried or blackened shoots may be hidden, or, even worse, stem diseases or bark cancer. The peeled wax will immediately reveal all these defects. The most convenient way to remove wax from a seedling is to use toothpicks, carefully running it along the entire length of the cutting, as if opening the wax, and then carefully removing it along the entire perimeter.

You need to free the plant from wax immediately before planting it in a permanent place or in a pot. During overexposure in the refrigerator or in a box on the balcony, there is no need to remove the wax - it perfectly protects the dormant cutting from excessive drying out.

Planting and caring for rose seedlings in the ground in spring (with video)

The best time to plant and care for rose seedlings in the ground is spring, after the threat of severe frost has passed. In this case, the plant has enough time to get stronger before the cold weather, and you have enough time to observe how it feels and, if necessary, provide help.

However, grafted seedlings from domestic nurseries are planted in the fall, and it is then (after summer grafting) that they go on sale. Imported grafted roses are planted in the spring, because in European nurseries (where the climate is milder) they are dug up when our planting season is already over.

In the first week after planting, the cuttings must be shaded and moistened. To do this, you can use breathable covering material, damp burlap, or regularly spray the plant.

To protect the rose from diseases, and yourself from unnecessary hassle, it is useful to disinfect the seedling before planting: keep it in the solution for half an hour copper sulfate or foundation, dipping entirely.

If the rose roots are dried, they need to be immersed in cold water. Broken and dry parts of the shoots should be cut back to healthy tissue, and intact shoots and roots should be shortened by a third.

A container seedling from a greenhouse needs to be acclimated to outdoor conditions gradually: first kept in partial shade, then for a couple of days near the planting site, making sure that the soil in the container remains moist, and only then planted in the ground.

Watch the video of planting rose seedlings in the ground in the spring to better understand how this agricultural technique is performed:

Planting seedlings of climbing and standard roses (with photo)

When planting climbing roses, do not forget that during the winter their vines, which will grow back next year, will have to be laid on the ground, and provide a place for this. The same applies to planting seedlings of standard roses: so that they fit more comfortably for winter shelter, it is better to plant them with an inclination in the direction where the standard will be laid, and give them a vertical position using a strong peg. The braid with which the stem is tied to the peg should not injure the bark.

A seedling with an open root system can be planted traditional way, just like all garden trees and shrubs: pour the prepared soil mixture (garden soil, compost, peat, fertilizers) into a pre-prepared hole, straighten the roots on this hill, fill it with the rest of the mixture and water it.

The “wet” method of planting has proven itself well: a bucket with a dissolved heteroauxin tablet, a portion of sodium humate or another root stimulant is poured into the hole. Having lowered the seedling into the hole, it is covered with soil mixture. No watering needed.

Finally, the most new way landings: in a place with previously prepared and fertilized soil, dig a hole, lower the seedling onto desired depth, lean it against the wall, cover it with earth on the side and water it. One person can do the job easily and quickly. When planting a rose, do not forget that the grafting site should be 3-5 cm, and for standard rose 10-15 cm below soil level.

Here you can see photos of planting climbing roses and standard forms:

How to soak seedlings with an open root system and planting roses

Rose seedlings with an open root system should only be left for a few days before planting. The best way is to place them on the balcony in a bucket of water. In this case, the sections need to be updated, the roots must be carefully examined, and also trimmed to a light-colored tissue. The cuttings easily tolerate prolonged soaking in a bucket for up to 2 weeks, without any unpleasant consequences.

Trim all shoots with cracks or black spots to healthy tissue. Don't be afraid if after pruning the cutting turns out to be too small. Plant and care for it - it has a chance to survive.

What should rose seedlings be soaked in before planting and how long should the cuttings be kept in water? The plant is soaked for 30 minutes either in water with a growth stimulator, or in a traditional clay mash (for this, the clay is diluted with water to a creamy consistency). The depth of the hole is determined by the length of the roots. We make a mound at the bottom of the hole, and distribute the roots along the slopes of the mound. The root collar should be 1 cm below the soil level.

Cover the roots evenly with soil. Fill the hole and compact the soil around the plant. Make a cushion around the seedling to keep water in the root area. Water until the soil settles completely. If the root collar is above the soil level, then in severe winters the rose may die.

A video of planting rose seedlings with an open root system will help you perform this procedure correctly:

Planting rose seedlings with a closed root system at the usual time

When planting, a rose seedling with a closed root system is usually recommended to be lowered into a prepared hole without disturbing the integrity of the coma. However different composition soil in the container and in your garden can inhibit root development. Therefore, if rose seedlings are planted in the spring at the usual time, it is better to shake off the container soil and mix it with garden soil.

Roses with a closed root system can be planted almost any time while gardening is in progress. If you plant a rose in the summer, there is no need to destroy the earthen ball.

When planting a rose seedling with a closed root system, its upper part should be 3-5 cm below the soil surface. To enhance root penetration into garden soil Water the plant several times with a solution of heteroauxin or root.

Both in spring and autumn, before planting, prepare the site in advance - dig it up, apply fertilizer. If the area was previously insufficiently fertilized, it is necessary to add well-rotted compost or manure humus. Under each bush, add 1-1.5 kg of compost or manure, 1 tablespoon of mineral flower fertilizer and mix thoroughly with the soil. If the soil is light, you need to add additional ash, about 30 grams per bush. Fresh manure should not be applied.

Hybrid tea, large-flowered polyanthus roses, as well as floribunda roses are planted at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. The width and depth of the hole should be such that the straightened roots of the rose can freely fit in it. When planting, the roots are freed from the packing soil. This is not done if you purchase planting material in pots or special metal mesh, which completely decompose in the soil. If under outer layer In the soil of the seedling, a fabric-elastic mesh will be found; it must be removed by carefully cutting it off with scissors.

When planting, it is necessary to trim the branches. In hybrid teas, floribundas and large-flowered polyanthas, 3-5 buds are left, in small-flowered polyanthas - 1-2 buds, park ones are shortened by 1/3-1/4 of the length, in other groups - 5-7 buds are left. Each branch must be pruned in accordance with the pruning rules - weak branches are pruned to the maximum, and strong branches - vice versa.

The planted bushes are watered abundantly with water so that the soil settles and presses more tightly to the roots. On light soils, watering should be more frequent and abundant than on heavy soils. After planting, the bushes should be hilled up to prevent the shoots from drying out. After about two weeks, new shoots should appear; if this does not happen, and the soil begins to dry out, it is necessary to mulch it with damp sawdust, leaves or damp moss. As soon as the first shoots appear, the excess soil is carefully removed; it is better to do this in cloudy and cool weather so that the shoots hidden underground do not get burned.

Rose seedlings, especially for beginning rose lovers, it is best to purchase them in specialized stores and reputable nurseries. And it’s better to start with a brand name roses, For example Canadian selection (they are the most unpretentious) or look at the strong, winter-hardy roses Tantau, Cordes, Austin, Harkness.

The roses from these nurseries are very strong, grafted onto a winter-hardy rootstock, and, as a rule, come with a closed root system (CRS), in branded packaging. And in this case there is a guarantee that you will not be disappointed. Your beauty will bloom and delight you in the first year and will also delight you for many years.

It is better to choose and order roses from catalogs since winter. It was during this period that the most big choice and favorable price.

In April you will already receive your cherished and long-awaited seedling.

At this time it is still cold and there is snow, and it happens that country cottage area There is no way to get there, what should I do? How to save a rose seedling before planting?

There are a few ways to preserve depending on its condition.

If you purchased a plant that has not yet begun to grow shoots, it is best to store it at a temperature of 0 -3 degrees Celsius (no more). Such a place can be in the refrigerator, in the cellar, on a closed loggia.

In this case, you need to wrap the entire seedling in craft paper (several layers of newspaper) and put it in plastic bag with holes for breathing.

The lump of earth in which it is located root system roses should be a little damp. During storage, you need to watch and prevent it from drying out. You can spray it periodically from a spray bottle.

If the temperature in the refrigerator or basement remains stable from 0 to 3 degrees, then the seedling can be stored in this form for 1-2 months.

But if the temperature rises above 5 degrees, the buds will begin to grow and produce pale shoots. But don’t be afraid, the stems will turn green in the light.

If you store the seedling on the balcony in this way, then control the temperature; it should be stored in a shaded, cool place.

As soon as the weather permits, plant the rose immediately on the site. The sooner you do this, the better. As soon as you can dig a hole, even if it is not warmed up, but in thawed soil, plant it immediately, don’t wait for it to wake up! Exactly this best time for landing!!!

After landing young plant cover with spunbond so that the shoots do not freeze in case of return frosts and do not burn in the sun! Read about the features of planting and spring pruning of roses in the following articles!

If you bought a seedling already with shoots, you won’t be able to make it sleep. In this case, if the plant is not in a container (in a tube or in a bag), we plant it in a pot or other 3-5 liter container. Carefully unfold, look at the condition of the roots, straighten if they are bent. If we find something rotten, we remove it. If the roots do not fit into the container, it is better to trim them. It is good to keep the roots in a solution of natural Vitalizer (2 drops per 1 liter of water) before planting in a pot for about 3-5 hours.

Then plant in loose, nutritious soil. It is better if you have it prepared in advance.

You don’t have to bury the root collar yet; you will do this already on the site according to all the rules.

If the seedling was purchased with shoots and a closed root system in a container in branded packaging. As a rule, there is a metal mesh inside the container. In this case, there is no need to remove it; it then collapses in the ground itself.

In this case, we soak the plant together with the earthen lump in the Natural Vitalizer solution (2 drops per 1 liter of water) also for 3-5 hours and then simply transfer it to a large container, adding nutritious soil.

We keep the pot of roses on the glazed balcony, but not on the window!!!

The best temperature is up to 5 degrees and be sure to provide shade, monitor the humidity, but do not over-moisten it.

The most worst place for a rose planted in this way, in an apartment on the window!

In this case, the young rose, in the warmth and light, begins to actively grow shoots, and may even produce buds. But you can’t be happy about it!!!

In this case, it actually “eats itself”, drawing all the juices from the roots.

At the beginning it needs to take root, it needs a “cold start”. Rose roots grow well at temperatures from 10 to 15 degrees. Because Since this is an outdoor plant, cold nights and humidity are a must. But in a dry, warm room in an apartment, this is impossible to ensure.

Even if such a rose survives to planting, in most cases it dies. IN best case scenario, she will be very weak, as they say, she will “waste away.” This is often the reason why novice rose lovers fail.

And it turns out that a person comes and says that I bought a rose from you, but it died and complains that he was deceived.

But he bought living plant, and wrong actions ultimately led to loss.

Therefore, if you have already planted a rose with shoots, then we keep it on a glazed balcony, shade it at the beginning, and give it the opportunity to grow roots. And only in the second half of April we gradually accustom her to the light. When the threat of frost has passed, you can generally keep it with open windows, as close as possible to natural conditions, but do not place it in bright sun.

On some seedlings the shoots are treated with vegetable wax. Manufacturers do this in order to retain moisture in the shoots so that it evaporates less.

If the layer of wax is thin and only at the ends of the shoots, we don’t clean it off yet, so we plant it in a pot.

When stored in the cold before planting, the wax does not interfere; we leave it too. This will help retain moisture.

In large supermarkets you can see and purchase rose cuttings in beautiful boxes in any season. Quite often they begin to be sold closer to spring, and gardeners cannot resist purchasing affordable flowers. Considering that the box itself initially demonstrates all the splendor of the future bush, it is not easy to pass by such beauty.

But problems with such cuttings exist not only in terms of their planting and adaptation to open ground. In order to get to this stage in principle, the gardener needs to know how to preserve roses purchased in boxes in February before planting. More ways...

It all depends on the condition of the rose itself. If it is not in a dormant state, and this is very easy to understand by the buds that have hatched, then you need to store the box in the cellar or in the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator.

Whether to leave the rose directly in the box or transplant it into another, larger container is up to the gardeners themselves to decide. But, unfortunately, not a single method can guarantee successful wintering. If the rose is in the refrigerator, then replanting it is not very convenient, whereas if stored on a balcony or veranda, it is quite possible.

Important! When transplanting a rose from a box to a container, it is necessary to keep its roots, freed from soil, in a biostimulator. With this approach, there is a greater chance that the root system will not be injured during transplantation and will take root faster. The plant should receive diffused light, but there is no need to water it, otherwise the rose will grow. This rule also applies to the flower that will be stored in the refrigerator.

• If it is not possible to replant roses and the root system is exposed, you can pour soil directly into the box.
• The storage place should be dry, since if there is too much moisture, spider mites may appear on the rose.
• Excessively long shoots, whose size exceeds 10 cm, must be removed, as growth flower will go from dormant buds, while these shoots will prevent him from accumulating strength. and other questions regarding this plant.

How to choose healthy cuttings

It is important to know not only how to preserve roses purchased in boxes in February before planting, but also how to choose live ones. If the plants are initially a dried stick, then even the most competent storage will not help revive them. To do this, you need to carefully examine the rose when purchasing:

• it is undesirable for the flower stems to be treated with wax;
• shortened roots on cuts should not be dry; if they are not dead, they will be white;
• the buds on the flower may already have hatched, but plants with excessively large foliage are better to be put aside, since their strength has gone into the foliage.

Roses with dormant buds are best stored, the stems of which have no traces of mold or other stains, and the stems themselves are not overdried or wrinkled.

When to take a rose out of hiding

You should not think that the cutting should be in a darkened cellar until transplantation. The rose buds must have time to wake up. To do this, they move it to a brighter place already in April and at the same time they begin to periodically moisten the earthen ball. Experienced gardeners they say that during the period of awakening the rose will need a simple regular spraying.