Which tile is better to choose for the yard. Paving slabs in the courtyard of a private house: installation, photo

Paving slabs will help you create unique attractiveness and comfort in your yard. A classic, strict form or elaborate patterns are a worthy addition to the completed design of the site, which adds special attractiveness. When choosing bright colors, you will not tire of pleasing your eyes every day, and on a summer evening you will be pleasantly pleased with the warmth of the stones, preserved from the daytime sun rays.

But which tile to choose? After all, today there is a great variety of tiles and you need to decide on color, shape, size and quantity. If you don't want to bother cutting the tiles to fit the path, you can simply calculate the width based on the size of the tiles.

Before starting work, you should consider such points as the color of the tile and its shape.

If you have chosen figured tiles, then you need to calculate the number of pieces that do not have to be cut, they are already available, all you have to do is count required amount. For paths with rounded elements, you need to calculate the number of wavy tiles. When laying tiles parallel, you will need less material than when laying diagonally.

Be careful when choosing the thickness of the tile, as you need to take into account the load placed on it. For a garden path, 40 mm is enough, but if vehicles are expected to move on the tiles, then at least 50-55 mm. Tiles more than 55 mm thick can support a truck.

The price at which you can buy tiles depends on the quality and service life. You also need to buy a border.

• laying tiles on cement, which over time leads to a single monolith of tile and base. The disadvantage of this installation is that, if necessary, it is impossible to lift the tiles and return them to their place. The reasons for lifting tiles can be different. For example, access to underground utilities or relocation of a walkway may be necessary when the design changes;
• a good way is to lay it on a sand base. You can easily and quickly assemble the tiles and put them in place;
• in case of unstable soil, it is better to use crushed stone as a substrate;
• The execution of the path flush with the surface is carried out by excavating the soil by 15 cm.

Preparing the site for laying paving slabs

To lay tiles in the yard yourself, you need to prepare the site. In order to do this, we will need the following tools:

• rake;
• shovels;
• channel;
• corner;
• water hose;
• rubber hammer;
• level;
• tamping machine (purchased or homemade);
• homemade pegs.

During installation, it is important to remember that the base must be perfectly level. Marking future path and drive pegs into the markings, onto which we pull the cable so that the line and outline are maintained. The height of the embankment should be approximately 5-7 cm.

Before laying the tiles, you need to install the border at the level of the slab or flush with it. The border is needed to hold the array and prevent it from spreading into different sides. For the border, you need to dig a trench and dig it in, fixing it with soil. After this, you can prepare the surface and lay the tiles.

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Technology for laying paving slabs

To lay tiles in the yard you need to have the following materials:

• Master OK;
• cement M500;
• row cord;
• profile;
• pipe of any diameter
• other.

Spread it over the entire area to the specified level, leveling it with a rake. After this, you need to water the surface with water from a hose until puddles form. After a few hours, the water should be absorbed, after which you need to level the surface with a profile.

The next step is laying the sand-cement mixture. To make it, you need to mix sand and cement in a ratio of 8 to 1. We lay the sand-cement mixture 3-4 cm thick. We stretch the row cord to the measured height. When pouring the dry sand-cement mixture, it is necessary to stir it thoroughly. We install the screed to a flat surface using a channel.

Now you can start laying the tiles. To do this, you should determine the required paving pattern and pull the cord along the chamfer of the slab. Place the tile on top of yourself. You also need to take into account that we place only in the diagonal direction. Place the first row along the cord. Each subsequent row must be laid in such a way that it is as close as possible to the previous one. If unevenness is detected, you should carefully place sand under the slab with a trowel, and then level it again with a tamper. After we have finished laying the slab, we check the surface for level. If there are unevennesses, they should be leveled using a rubber hammer to the desired level. Upon completion of the work, you need to go over the seams with a sand-cement mixture.

At the end of the work, we fix the sand-cement mixture. The slab is poured into the gaps from a hose using a sprayer.

After the tile coating has dried, it is ready for use. Now you can enjoy the beauty and be proud of your work.

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Method of laying paving stones on concrete

First, we dig a trench around the entire perimeter or a small pit. If the car is not supposed to be parked, then a trench depth of 200 mm is sufficient; if there is parking, then of course the depth should be greater. Let's consider the option without a car.

We install the formwork system around the entire perimeter of the pit and fill it with concrete. For greater confidence, you should reinforce the screed.

When the surface is filled, curbs can be installed. To do this, remove the formwork (be sure to wait until the concrete has dried). Then we set the curb blocks in crushed stone and fill them with concrete mortar made from M400 cement.

Do not forget to provide a distance from the house when installing the screed to ensure drainage from the foundation. The height of the layer filling is selected at the design stage (30-70 cm). Typically this slope is 5-10 cm per 1 m of surface being poured. At the edge of the “removed” area, a storm drain is constructed using gutters, drains, and grooves (these can be purchased in stores building materials in the territory development departments).

After the screed has hardened, you can. Cover the base with dry sand. To lay out the paving stones, you need to use a rubber hammer. We align the joining seams using a stretched cord in each row. In order to speed up the laying and compaction processes, you can use an in-depth vibrator or vibrating screen-ramming equipment. We compact the paving stones from the center to the edges, from a small circle to a larger one - along the perimeter of the yard. Don't forget to check the level. If there is a large area of ​​paving, we divide it into squares.

We fill the joining seams with sand. After laying the paving stones, fill the seams with water and sprinkle them with sand again. Residual sand should not be cleaned out, since the joints should be filled with it to the maximum. This will take about two weeks, after which your yard will be well-groomed and tidy.

Today, every person wants to improve their yard or make a path; in this case, you cannot pass by paving slabs.

This is a proven material that is distinguished by its strength, durability and beauty. The good news is that everyone can choose the tile they like and lay it themselves. At first glance it seems like a complicated and troublesome matter, but if you look into it, you understand that everything is extremely simple. Paths in the garden can be laid literally in a weekend, and to cover a large yard it takes about two weeks and one assistant.

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If you are planning to pave a yard, sidewalk or garden path, you will have a choice - which one paving slabs use for this.

After reading the article, you will learn how to choose the right paving slabs for the courtyard of your house or cottage, which experts recommend using, and what parameters are used to choose them. Learn to determine which varieties and types are preferable in a given situation.

Before you start choosing, ask the question: why tile? Why not asphalt, not concrete, not poured and compacted gravel? Why is it important for you to lay tiles here? This question will help you better understand what your coverage expectations are and help you choose required material, shape and other parameters of the tile.

If you need to fit a path or sidewalk into the exquisite design of the site, choose porcelain stoneware or natural stone tiles. If you need to create a feeling of antiquity and monumentality, choose natural or cast wild stone. To bring back memories of recent decades Soviet Union, choose colored vibropressed tiles.

Price high-quality styling tiles (with appropriate installation preparatory work and creating the right foundation) will cost 3-5 times more than pouring concrete or laying asphalt. Even when using inexpensive materials. If you choose expensive materials, laying tiles will exceed the cost of creating concrete or asphalt path no less than 10 times. The reason for this is the high price of the material and the large volume of expensive handmade, which require high qualifications.

Characteristics

The main characteristics of the tiles include:

• abrasion resistance;
• frost resistance;
• size and shape;
• price.

Abrasion resistance

Abrasion resistance determines how long the tile will last when exposed to external factors(shoes and car tires). The higher this parameter, the greater the load the tile can withstand and the longer it will take to replace it.

The abrasion resistance of concrete paving slabs depends on the materials from which the concrete is made. Application of quartz or river sand, quality cement grades not lower than M-500 and crushed hard rocks (granite, marble, basalt and others) improve abrasion resistance.

This property is conditional meaning, which is determined according to GOST 13087-81. To determine the value of this indicator, a sample of concrete or reinforced concrete product abraded using a special machine and abrasive powder.

After a certain exposure time, the sample is cleaned and weighed. The difference between the weight of the original and the resulting sample is the abrasion resistance. It is indicated in grams per square centimeter (g/cm2). The lower the abrasion resistance value, the more difficult it is to destroy a product made of concrete or natural stone.

The best abrasion resistance is found in porcelain stoneware and natural stone paving stones. Polymer concrete made from granite (marble) chips and clinker bricks (tiles) are somewhat worse. In third place is a vibro-pressed concrete paving slab containing crushed granite or marble. In last place is cast concrete tiles and rubber paving slabs.

Frost resistance

Frost resistance is indicated either in the number of freeze-thaw cycles (based on GOST 10060-2012), or by concrete grade F100, F200, F300. The higher this value, the more severe frost the tile can withstand. F300 grade concrete is used to make products that can withstand temperatures below minus 45 degrees Celsius. Concrete grade F100 is designed for operation at temperatures above minus 5 degrees.

Size and shape

The thickness of the tile determines the load it can withstand. Tiles 3-4 cm thick are used for pedestrian paths and other places where there is no transport. A thickness of 4-7 cm is used for areas where movement is possible. passenger cars, over 7 cm is used for any areas.

How longer length and the width of the tiles, especially quality foundation necessary. This is caused by the fact that when the base subsides, one or two edges of the tile tilt towards the failure, while the other side, on the contrary, rises above the surface of the main mass of tiles, forming a kind of “humock”.

The choice of laying pattern and the complexity of joining the outer tiles and the border depend on the shape of the tiles. Tiles of simple shape - four- and hexagonal - are the easiest to install, but the choice of patterns is limited.

For one size square shape“Checkerboard order” and “half-row shift” patterns are available, so the pattern is created using tiles various colors. For rectangular paving stones, checkerboard, circular and herringbone patterns are available, and the pattern is also created by combining colors.

Square tiles offset by half a row

For a hexagon, the “mosaic” scheme is applicable. There is no laying pattern for wild stone, because all stones various shapes and size. Therefore, instead of a diagram, a drawing is posted. Decorative (artistic) tiles themselves are a pattern, so there is no laying pattern for them.

If you want to lay out a specific drawing or pattern, make a plan of the site on a convenient scale and create a drawing on it. This will help determine what color and shape of tiles are needed.

If not in stores required tiles, contact the manufacturer directly. Most of these companies undertake the production of tiles according to individual order, however, at a price 2-5 times more expensive than that one which is mass produced.

Price

In 50 percent of cases, cost determines the choice of tile. The more expensive the tile, the more expensive the worker’s services for laying it. To install cheap cast tiles that will last ten years at most, you can hire a team of migrant workers; they do it quickly and cheaply. But this approach to laying expensive tiles will lead to the need overhaul blind areas in 3-5 years.

Laying tiles is the final stage; before it, hard and complex work is required to prepare the soil and install the underlying layers. If one of the operations is performed poorly or with errors, the blind area will not last long.

The cost of tiles depends on the price of raw materials, manufacturing technology, brand popularity, income of the manufacturer and various transport and trade costs. Therefore, the price range for various models one type of tile reaches 100 percent.

Don't rush to buy tiles at the first store. Look at the offers of other retail outlets, visit several companies that produce tiles. There is a high probability that you will be able to find what you need, and at a lower price than they ask in the store.

Remember, more expensive tiles are not necessarily higher quality than those that are cheaper. After all, the quality of tiles (within one type or model) depends on the experience of workers and technologists. If workers do not violate technology, check and repair (adjust) equipment on time, use the right ingredients, then this approach ensures high quality products.

Choosing tiles for paving sidewalks, garden paths or recreation areas is not an easy task. Now you know what to look for when choosing tiles, what qualities and parameters are really important, and what exactly you can safely ignore. This will help you choose a tile that suits the price, quality and is ideal for the design you have in mind.

Pay attention to the paving slabs. This material has proven itself to be excellent, it is strong, durable, and beautiful. Now there are many types of paving slabs and everyone can choose one that suits the facade of the house or just one that suits their taste. Laying paving slabs with your own hands may seem like a very difficult and troublesome task, but in fact everything is extremely simple. Paths in the garden can be paved with paving slabs in a weekend, but to cover a large yard it will take about two weeks and a helper.

Before you start laying, you need to understand the main types of paving slabs. The main types of paving slabs are stamped and vibrocast. It is better to opt for vibro-cast paving slabs, which will more than pay for the slightly higher cost with their beautiful appearance. appearance and durability.

The thickness of paving slabs may vary. Typically, the thickness of paving slabs varies between 20-60 mm. 20mm paving slabs are suitable for garden paths or areas that are guaranteed not to be driven by cars. In the yard, paving slabs with a thickness of 40-45 mm are most often laid. 60mm tiles are laid where multi-ton trucks will travel.

The tile pattern can be any, but beginners are not recommended to lay tiles such as “rhombus”, “brick” and “paving stones”. It is more difficult to lay such tiles; craftsmen charge more for working with them.

The color of the tile can also be almost any, but it is worth considering that colored tiles are more expensive than gray ones.
This article discusses the technology of laying paving slabs with your own hands.

Materials and tools for laying paving slabs

• Sand. You will need quite a lot of sand (several tons), its quantity depends on the area of ​​the yard, as well as the features of the landscape.
• Paving slabs (quantity is calculated by the manufacturer based on quadrature).

• Border
• Cement

• Strong elastic thread
• Metal pegs
• Hammer
• Rubber hammer

• Shovel
• Long Rule
• Two steel pipes about an inch in diameter
• Tamping
• Wheelbarrow
• Level
• Master OK
• Buckets
• Broom
• Bulgarian woman with diamond blade for cutting concrete

• Knee pads

Laying paving slabs with your own hands

Decide on the slope of the site. A slope of several degrees must be present, otherwise after rain there will be water in the yard. The slope is best done towards the street. If you decide to follow this advice, then the street level is taken as the zero point.

Along the zero line (the line towards which the site will be inclined), drive two metal pegs into the ground and stretch a thread between them. Check horizontality using a level. It is better to apply the level to the thread from below.

Tie another thread to one of the pegs and pull it perpendicular to the first. Tie the free end of the thread to a new peg and drive it into the ground so much that the second end is slightly above the zero line. This can be checked using a level (the angle of inclination should be several degrees).

Tie another thread to the last hammered peg at the same level as the previous one and pull it parallel to the zero line, check the horizontalness using a level. Tie the free end to the fourth peg.

Connect the first and last pegs with a thread. As a result, you will get a rectangle, marked with threads and lying in the plane of the future site with laid paving slabs.

Now we need to divide our surface into strips. The width of the stripes is selected based on the length of your rule (the stripe should be several tens of centimeters narrower than the rule). Set aside the selected distance from the zero line and drive a peg into the ground. Do the same on the opposite side. Connect the pegs with a thread, equalizing its height along the sides of the rectangle, perpendicular to the zero line. In the same way, divide the entire area into strips.

Now you need to level the site relative to the markings. Where the thread is too close to the ground, the soil must be removed, and where it is too close big holes, add some sleep. The gap between the soil and the threads should be approximately two thicknesses of the tile. All this is done by eye, no special precision is required.

The soil, especially where it was added, must be thoroughly compacted. A tamper is used for this. In our case, the tamper was made independently from a crane arm with a welded handle.

When the area is leveled, you can begin laying paving slabs.

Prepare a sand-cement mixture. To do this, pour a pile of sand directly on the ground, gradually mixing cement into it in a ratio of about 6 to 1. It is desirable that the sand is wet, so it is better to lay paving slabs in spring or autumn, when it is not very hot and quite damp.

Distribute the prepared mixture evenly over one of the strips.

Tamp down thoroughly.

Lay steel pipes under the threads marking the boundaries of the strip. The gap between the pipe and the thread should be approximately a centimeter less than the thickness of the tile. The pipes must be strictly parallel to the threads and be at the same height.

Wear shoes and pants that you don't mind getting ruined, and don't forget about knee pads. Kneel between the threads, pass the rule under them and run along the surface of the pipes. You will see where you need to add the cement-sand mixture.

Pour the required amount of cement-sand mixture. Start compacting it with your hands while simultaneously stretching the rule. You will have a smooth strip, ready for installation. You can take a little cement-sand mixture and sprinkle it over the leveled area.

Prepare and carefully inspect the tiles, lay them in stacks near the prepared area. The tiles are mostly smooth, but there are some defects. Some tiles can be convex (turtle), concave (plate), or curved (propeller). It is better not to use such tiles and put them aside as a last resort.

Lay one tile, carefully aligning it along the marking axes.

Tap the tile with a rubber hammer, pushing it into the ground to the marking level.

Do the same with next tile. The sequence of laying the tiles is selected depending on the tile pattern.

Start laying paving slabs from yourself. So, gradually moving forward, you will walk on the newly laid tiles.

Prepare the base in the same way and lay next page paving slabs.

If there are any obstacles on the way (in our case gas pipe And sewer hatch), they need to be bypassed with whole tiles. The final trimming and fitting is best done at the end.

After each working day, the tiles need to be swept. When laying, gaps form between the tiles that need to be filled. It is the process of filling the cracks that is called sweeping. For sweeping we need dry sand and cement. They need to be mixed in a ratio of 1 to 6. Sprinkle the mixture evenly over the tiles, and then sweep with a broom several times, filling the cracks.

Attention: sometimes when using a sand-cement mixture for sweeping, colored tiles may remain white coating from cement. This may be due to the quality of the tile, or the peculiarities of its production. Conscientious tile manufacturers in such cases advise sweeping with clean sand. If in doubt, you can avoid using a mixture of sand and cement, use only sand.

It is unlikely that your plot will be perfectly rectangular, so you will not be able to do without trimming. Where you need to trim is determined by location. Trimming the tiles is done using a grinder with a diamond disc for concrete.

If you want to make flower beds, mark them using threads or taps. Saw off any excess tiles protruding beyond the borders of the flower beds.

Flowerbeds and edges of the area with laid tiles should be framed with a border. To do this, dig a trench along the edge with a trowel or small spatula. The depth of the trench is selected based on the planting depth of the curb.

Install the curb sections and secure them to the meth with thick mortar.

Near the curbs you will have cells where you need to lay the cut tiles. The soil in these places must be compacted especially carefully, as it could crumble when digging a trench.

Trim the remaining tiles needed to fill the gaps created by avoiding obstacles.

Where the tiles come close to the gate, it is better to lay them not on cement-sand mixture, but on the mortar, since in this place the load on the tile will be maximum.

This article discusses the process of laying tiles in the yard, but in the case of garden paths and with a blind area everything is much simpler and does not require such careful preparation.

Paving slabs in the courtyard of a private house are the most common landscaping option. Although there are many other materials, tile is in steady demand due to its high performance and ease of installation. Observing simple requirements, it is possible to achieve the formation of a high-quality coating that can withstand difficult conditions operation. It is worth familiarizing yourself with the methods of laying tiles to understand which one is best to use for decorating the local area.

The yard should be comfortable

Laying method

The laying technology for paving slabs placed in the courtyard of a private house is different. Installation is performed in several ways. Depending on the maximum load, paving slabs can be laid on the following bases:

• Sand pillow. In this case, the tiles are laid directly on pre-compacted and moistened sand. This base is used when designing paths in the garden, where the operational load is relatively small. The advantage of this method is the timely removal of moisture through the seams between street tiles;
• Cement-sand mixture. In this case, five parts of cement are added to one part of sand, which is evenly distributed over the surface. This option provides a relatively strong and reliable base, which makes it possible to quickly repair the coating by replacing one element with another;
• Cement-sand mortar. Standard pre-prepared concrete mortar, which is then evenly distributed over the base. The tiles are laid in accordance with the selected layout. A mallet is used to give each element the required spatial arrangement. With its help, each element is carefully pressed into the solution. A trowel is used to apply the solution.

This foundation is durable and suitable for landscaping individual house. However, in this case it is important to observe certain rules installation, ensuring drainage. Otherwise, moisture will begin to accumulate on the surface, causing damage to individual elements. Considering that the paving stones are fixed with concrete mortar, it is difficult to replace an individual element. This coating becomes practically irreparable.

Preparing the base

Laying schemes

Depending on the configuration of the treated surface and its area, site owners prefer a universal installation scheme or create their own.

Possible Solution

Standard laying schemes:

• Herringbone or wicker. The most common solution that allows you to lay out gray paving slabs to form an original pattern. The elements are placed either at an angle of 45 degrees or at a right angle. Braid is a more complicated version of herringbone. The special alternation of the direction of joining the tiles gives a beautiful pattern.
• Chaotic masonry adds originality to the path. To implement this scheme, elements are used different sizes and colors. The chaotic arrangement of stones gives an interesting design solution.
• Chess order. To create a pattern you will need a two-color curly or square tiles, which is laid out in a given sequence. Checkerboard laying performed with the help rectangular tiles. In this case, one cell is obtained by combining two elements, and the second by placing the second pair perpendicular to the first.
• Circular pattern. Complex option, allowing you to create a beautiful multi-colored area in a private house. By alternating circular patterns, you can get a beautifully designed path.
• Alternating tiles or lawn. Typically, tiles are laid in such a way as to prevent grass from growing. However, if desired, you can abandon the standard solution and make the lawn part of the surface being formed. If we are talking about decorating a relatively spacious area, you can turn the lawn into a flower bed that will harmoniously fit into the surrounding space. If this option is not suitable, use a special tile with holes. By alternating tiles and lawn, you can add attractiveness to any area, but only with timely care. Otherwise, the area will turn out sloppy. overgrown.

Original solution

Getting ready for installation

The preparatory stage is very important, since you will have to decide which paving slabs should be laid, and how to lay out the elements to create a reliable and neat coating. Attention should be paid not only to the design solution, but also to the strength characteristics specific model. Looks good a natural stone, but buying granite is an expensive undertaking. In this case, you should pay attention to concrete and clinker products. Being much lower in cost, they are able to withstand even significant operating loads.

In addition to the tiles, you will need:

• Curbs. Their shapes and sizes correspond to the dimensions of the tiles;
• Crushed stone. Special attention pay attention to the fractional composition. It must be more than 20, but less than 50;
• Sand. Be sure to check where it was mined. If you have a choice, you should order river water, it contains fewer impurities;
• Cement. The strength characteristics of the material affect the service life of the coating. It is worth choosing cement M400 and higher;
• Geotextiles. Laying this woven fabric will effectively combat unwanted plants. If any solution other than a combination of tiles and lawn is chosen for the laying scheme, such a layer is required.

The purchased tiles should be enough to completely complete the paving. To do this, first perform a calculation required quantity material: the area of ​​the yard area is divided by the area of ​​one element. The resulting value is rounded up and a certain percentage is added in accordance with the selected scheme.

The foundation turned out to be fragile

Attention! For direct masonry, add 10–20%. If the rows are arranged diagonally, the resulting value should be increased by a third.

If the calculation is initially performed incorrectly, the missing quantity will have to be purchased in the future. This will extend the installation time and may increase the cost due to increased tile prices.

Curbstone sold by the piece. To determine the required quantity, double the length of the path is divided by the length of one curb stone. The resulting value is rounded up. Border stone is purchased with a reserve, adding at least 1 product to the resulting value.

Ensuring the desired position

From the tool you will need:

• Grinder and disk, which is designed specifically for tiles;
• A shovel, with the help of which a trench is prepared for the base;
• Tamping or special equipment for compacting layers;
• Trowel for applying the solution;
• Mallet to give the required position to each tile;
• Level. Its length should correspond to the dimensions of the site or track;
• Broom to remove sand residues;
• Pegs and cord for marking the local area.

Attention! It’s worth preparing funds personal protection so as not to cause harm to health during installation.

Laying technology

Laying out the elements should be done according to a previously prepared scheme. When placing paving slabs in the yard, it is important to ensure effective drainage. If this is not done, the service life of the tiles will be shortened due to constant stagnation of water and subsequent destruction of the coating. Builders recommend providing a slope: 5 mm for each linear meter coverings.

Web sealing

The laying of new paving slabs in the courtyard of a private house is standard. The work is performed in the following sequence:

• The soil is removed to a depth of 20 cm. All elements of vegetation are removed. Herbicide treatment is carried out;
• Marking is carried out: using pegs and twine local area zoned. The markings are made in increments of 1 - 1.5 m. In this case, you will definitely get a good surface;
• A slope towards the street is formed;
• The site is leveled. The soil is compacted;
• A layer of crushed stone is poured and distributed evenly;
• Now you can lay non-woven material, which will prevent subsidence of the base;
• A layer of sand is poured and compacted. It is distributed over the surface using a rake;
• A thin screed is formed. To do this, cement is poured onto a layer of sand;
• Paving slabs are being installed. All elements should be carefully inspected to ensure there is no damage to the front surface.

The result will please you

Knowing how to properly lay paving slabs, you can cope with the installation on our own. To do this, you need to decide on the type of material used and prepare the tools. As a result, the laid surface will last a long time without any additional intervention.

Currently, paving slabs are mainly produced by small private enterprises. Therefore, a homeowner who wants to improve his site using this material needs to know the criteria for its selection.

How to choose the right paving stones?

The first thing you need to ask the paving slab seller is how these products are made. There are two main methods: vibration casting and vibration pressing. The first is more preferable, since it does not involve continuous production, but is actually manual. Therefore, tiles made by vibration casting have a gloss and have no equal in the quality of the pattern. But the geometry of its forms is not ideal. If the aesthetic appeal of paving stones is of primary importance to the homeowner, it is recommended to choose these products.

The tile obtained as a result of vibration pressing is less beautiful in appearance than the previous one. But each product has clear shapes, is resistant to mechanical stress, and is highly durable. These paving stones can withstand heavy weight loads, so they can be laid in areas with heavy traffic. If cars, including trucks, often drive into the local area, it is better to buy paving stones made using this particular method.

When choosing paving slabs, you need to pay attention to their color. You should know that being too bright and saturated is not an advantage, but a disadvantage. He reports that the technology was violated during the production process: an excessive amount of pigment was added. Such paving stones will quickly crack and begin to crumble.

To ensure the quality of the paving slabs, you need to take two of them and knock them against each other. If the sound produced is dull, it means that the drying technology of the products was violated. If it is loud enough, the paving stones contain a minimum of water, and therefore have the proper quality.

What else should you pay attention to when buying paving slabs?

If the paving stones have correct forms and all products are the same size, it will be easier to install. If the edge of the tiles is carved, you need to make sure that there are no chips on the products. It is important to find out from the seller how many freeze-thaw cycles the selected paving stones can withstand. Quality product must be designed for at least 150 cycles.

If the adjacent area is planned to be used as a parking lot, you need to choose products with a thickness of at least 6 cm. If the vehicle is a truck - 7-8 cm. In other cases, it is enough to lay paving stones 2.5-4 cm thick in the courtyard of the house. If you lay the tiles on concrete base, it will last much longer.