Toilet installation installation: detailed instructions for installing a wall-mounted toilet. Installing a wall-hung toilet DIY wall-hung toilet

Floor standing toilets for a long time were out of competition, but everything is changing. Owners modern apartments More and more people are choosing hanging models. This pleasure is not cheap, but this is practically the only drawback of this solution. But among the advantages of its design great design and ease of maintenance.

It is important that the installation of a wall-hung toilet is carried out in accordance with all the rules. We will tell you how and in what sequence the work is carried out, what devices will be needed to attach the bowl. Taking into account our recommendations, you can do everything yourself or supervise the actions of plumbers.

A home craftsman can easily cope with the installation of a wall-mounted model if he understands distinctive features its designs.

The visible element of such a plumbing fixture is the toilet bowl itself. Its installation on the wall is carried out in two ways: using an installation and on concrete base. In our article we will look at both options.

A wall-hung toilet model is more expensive than a regular one floor option, but you can reduce costs if you install the product yourself

Strong and weak sides hanging type plumbing fixtures are listed, which describes in detail the varieties and design specifics, and provides guidelines for choosing the best model for you personally.

The design of a wall-mounted plumbing fixture can be roughly divided into three main elements, which will be discussed further.

Reliable steel frame (module)

The frame is the main element of the entire structure, which is attached to the floor and wall of the bathroom. The frame is the support for cistern and bowls. The quality of subsequent operation of the product depends on its reliability. After putting the toilet into operation, the structure will need to have a sufficient margin of strength to support the weight of an adult.

To secure the frame you must have solid foundation. Plasterboard walls cannot be considered in this capacity. The frame is equipped with a mechanism that allows you to vary the installation height of the toilet bowl in the range of 40-43 cm. To securely fasten the bowl, manufacturers recommend using strong pins made of steel.

In this photo, all three elements of the toilet design are clearly visible: a light blue frame, a gray-blue plastic tank with a flush button and a white bowl

The best models of support frames for hanging plumbing fixtures are listed, which we recommend that you familiarize yourself with.

Hidden cistern

The hidden fastening of this element, according to supporters of the wall model, is considered one of the advantages of the design. The material for its manufacture is very durable plastic. To prevent condensation from accumulating on the surface, the plastic is treated with styrene.

The tank has a flat shape, distinguished by a technological cutout on one side. This cutout is necessary for the drain key device. This hole has another purpose: it allows you to remove the drain tank fittings when performing repair work.

Another feature of suspended tanks is economical system drain that such a model can be equipped with. Depending on the need, the drain dose can be 3 or 6 liters.

The bowl is a visible structural element

The bowl is chosen, as a rule, based on the personal preferences of the users. It is visible and must correspond general interior premises. In addition, it should be easy to use.

It is the toilet bowl, as a visible structural element, that should fit organically into the interior of the room: it can even have a square shape

Most buyers prefer the product oval shape. Although there are round, rectangular and even square models on sale.

Fastening elements are part of the selected model and are included in its configuration. There is no need to purchase additional hardware for a wall-hung toilet. In addition, among the mounted models there are electronic controls and numerous hygienic functions.

Intelligent types of plumbing fixtures with retractable nozzles for washing and drying, deodorizing and other actions need to be connected to a power supply. Their installation is complicated by eyeliner power line and setting up the system:

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These long steel pins, running through holes in the frame and attached to the wall, are needed to hold the toilet bowl securely in place.

Connecting the necessary communications

First of all, we connect the sewer. For this connection, a black tap is used, which, as a rule, is included in the installation package. One end of this outlet is adjusted to the sewer pipe, and its other end is attached to the frame with special clips.

Water pipes should be located to the right or left of the module. The pipe should be connected to the structure using the existing one. threaded connection. To connect the water supply it is better to use copper or polypropylene pipes, and make the connection detachable.

Cold water can also be supplied to the tank using flexible hoses. Such hoses are more profitable in terms of price, but their fragility should be taken into account. And when replacing failed hoses, you will have to carry out expensive repairs, so the option with pipes is still preferable.

Don't forget to check how securely the drain container is connected to the water supply system. For this purpose, open the water supply tap. It is located inside the drain tank. After filling the container, all possible leaks are eliminated. This can be done without draining the water.

If, during the process of checking the correct connection of the toilet to the sewer or water supply system, leaks are identified, they should be carefully repaired

The connection to the sewer drain should also be checked. To do this, put a toilet bowl on the studs and perform a test flush without finally securing the structure. After which the bowl is removed again and all identified leaks, if any, are eliminated.

Finishing work

On next stage you have to sew up the niche using a moisture-resistant sheet of plasterboard, and then perform Finishing work. Please note that we need exactly moisture resistant drywall, because the usual one will quickly deteriorate under the influence of condensation.

To perform finishing work when installing a wall-hung toilet with an installation, moisture-resistant plasterboard is used, which can be used in rooms with high humidity without reducing its quality

To cut drywall, you need to use a template, which should be included with the installation. It will allow you to correctly cut all the necessary mounting holes without damaging the material.

After installing the moisture-resistant sheet, finishing material can be fixed to its surface. Ceramic tiles are most often used to decorate a bathroom.

Final installation steps

For installation of the visible part wall hung toilet You can start only after the tile adhesive has dried thoroughly.

The procedure for installing a toilet bowl:

the drainage pipe must protrude 50 mm beyond the wall surface: it must be adjusted to this size;
do the same with the pipe that leads to the sewer drain;
both pipes are installed in the places intended for them;
a large gasket similar in shape to a truncated pyramid is put on the studs that were fixed in advance, as well as on the pipes;
the bowl is put on the studs and the pipes are attached to it;
put rubber gaskets and plastic inserts in their places;
put on and tighten the fastening nuts;
The protruding parts of the rubber gasket are carefully trimmed.

Now you can drain the water from the tank, thereby checking the operation of the sewer drain. The installation height of the wall-hung toilet bowl relative to the floor can be adjusted by changing the position of the studs and retractable pins that are used to secure this element. It must match the height of the toilet visitors.

The installation height of the bowl can be adjusted in the range of 40-43 cm, but the standard distance is 40 cm from the floor surface

The standard height is 40 cm, measured from the floor surface to the top edge of the bowl.

Attaching the flush key

The installation process is completed by installing the drain key. It is included in the basic package and can be mechanical or pneumatic. Usually this procedure does not cause any problems, since all the provided connections should already be brought to the surface of the wall.

There are special pins for a mechanical key, and tubes for a pneumatic key. All that remains is to install this element in its intended place and adjust its position. That's it: the toilet can be used.

Suspended model on a concrete base

A steel frame is expensive. In principle, you can do without it by building a concrete pedestal with your own hands, which will serve as a reliable foundation for the wall-hung toilet. This option is considered the most economical.

The diagram of the model on a concrete base includes: 1 – two rods for fixing the toilet bowl, mounted into the wall; 2 – concrete base; 3 – pipe for draining into the sewer

With this installation method, the drain container can either be mounted into the wall, with the drain button located outside, or placed above the bowl of the plumbing fixture.

Pre-installation procedure

Let's consider the option that is considered the least expensive. Let's prepare everything you need for work:

concrete M200 - approximately 40 liters;
boards for making formwork;
threaded rods (length 50-80 cm, thickness 2 cm) - 2 pieces;
washers, nuts, screws for woodworking;
plastic pipe (diameter 11 cm, length 8 cm);
drain coupling;
Styrofoam;
silicone sealant.

I think it’s worth repeating that the wall we have to work with must be permanent.

Step-by-step installation process

We fix rods in the main wall, onto the outlets of which the toilet bowl will then be placed. Let us remind you that we should get a stable and reliable design, capable of supporting a weight of 400 kg.

The next step is to install the drain coupling. At this stage, it is necessary to determine the height of the toilet in order to cut the coupling to the appropriate length.

Now we need to install the formwork. In order to mark fastening points on the formwork, you should determine the distance between the holes intended for fastening.

To calculate the length of the rods, you need to add up the thickness of the recess, which is approximately 15 cm, and the distance from the wall to the toilet bowl. To fix the rods in the wall, concrete adhesive is used - a chemical anchor.

This is what the structure looks like ready for the concreting process: the place where the drain will be connected to the toilet bowl is covered with foam plastic

When the formwork is installed and the installation of the pins is completed, the bowl should be installed in the place intended for it. Make sure that the mounting holes match the outlets, and the outlet hole matches the coupling drain.

The next step is concreting. This must be done by installing foam plastic in the place where the drain hole will be. Remember that the concrete will finally harden only after 28 days.

After this, you can remove the formwork and make sure that in front of us there is a monolithic concrete block with pins coming out of it and an open, fixed coupling. A toilet is mounted to the front of the block, and a tank is placed on the base itself.

This is exactly what a wall-hung toilet will look like after installing the bowl, and its tank will be installed on a concrete base

The procedure for installing a bowl to a concrete base is no different from installing floor-standing toilet. You need to install the bowl on the pins, tighten the nuts, connect and seal the drain. Lastly, a drain tank is placed on the concrete base.

As you can see, this method of installing a hanging model is much cheaper and easier than working with the installation. But, to be honest, the result is not much different from a floor-standing toilet.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

The information you just read will be perceived much better if you supplement it with a video. We invite you to see the installation with toilet mounting hanging type with an installation filmed on video.

The range of plumbing fixtures is expanding: toilets are being improved, updated, and become more and more attractive. But modern models, as a rule, are more expensive than traditional ones.

Tell us about how you installed a wall-hung toilet in your house/apartment. It is possible that you know technological nuances, which will be useful to site visitors. Please write comments, post photos, share your impressions and ask questions in the block below.

Before you begin installing the toilet with your own hands, you need to make preliminary markings on the wall and floor.

First, determine the vertical, which must coincide with the axis of the frame. There are three options:

Separate bathroom without washbasin and bidet. In this case, the vertical runs through the center of the wall on or near which the installation is installed.
Bathroom with toilet and bidet. Both installations are lined up. And the vertical axes for each frame should be positioned so that they fall in the center of the selected location, taking into account the ergonomics of the bathroom. Under standard conditions, both axes should “divide” the wall into three equal parts.
Combined bathroom. The vertical line on the wall should pass through the geometric center of the selected location.

The next step is to mark the vertical center of the drain key. For a block system, this is the only reference point, and it is usually located at a height of 1 m above the finished floor level. Therefore, you need to take into account the thickness:

leveling screed;
heated floors with insulation and their own screed (if provided);
finishing layer (tile adhesive plus tiles).

For a frame installation of standard height, this size (1 m) is specified in the diagram, but if it is short, then they are guided by the installation height of a particular model.

Further marking is carried out as follows:

A horizontal line is struck level in the center of the key or the top of the frame and the installation width is marked on it.
From these points, vertical lines are drawn down. They continue on the floor parallel to each other and perpendicular to the plane of the wall.
Mark on each line a distance greater than the installation depth indicated in the passport. Actual size must also take into account the gap from the tank to the wall of 1.5 cm, the method of laying the sewer pipe and its maximum outer diameter at the joints. So with an installation depth of 12 cm minimum distance from the wall to the front surface of the installation is 13.5 cm - if the pipe “goes” under the ceiling, 15.5 cm - if the sewer pipe runs along the wall. And this does not take into account irregularities.
Connect the marks - this will be the line along which the places where the legs are attached to the floor are located.
Check the perpendicularity of this line relative to the side wall. If necessary, adjust it, making sure that shortest distance the wall was no less than the actual depth.

Marking on the wall for a block installation is much simpler and consists only of marking the attachment points to the wall. In accordance with the diagram and focusing on the recommended height of the flush button, a parallel line is struck from the vertical axis on each side at a distance equal to half installation width. And on these lines the points of attachment of the frame to the main wall are marked.

Materials and tools

Even when purchasing the installation, you need to check the completeness. In addition to the frame itself, the tank, the inlet valve and the flush elbow must be:

drain elbow;
key;
fastenings and fastening elements;
plugs for flush and drain pipes (to prevent debris from getting in during operation);
gasket for mounting a wall-mounted toilet (sound insulation).

In the case when you are installing plumbing fixtures yourself for the first time, it would be good to find out if the seller has spare parts for installation (if something goes wrong). All leading manufacturers produce spare parts and repair kits for installations - pipes, elbows, inlet and flush valves, membranes, seals and transitions. In addition, there should be an assortment different kinds fasteners and fasteners, which can be purchased separately.

You also need to purchase a set of pipes for connecting the wall-mounted toilet to the installation, silicone sealant for the joints of sewer pipes and fum tape for installing a stop valve on a water pipe.

To install a wall-hung toilet with installation, you will need the following tools:

level, tape measure, ruler, construction corner, pencil or marker;
hammer drill and concrete drills;
hammer;
a set of wrenches (as well as an adjustable or gas wrench);
screwdrivers;
pliers.

If you immediately install a frame from a profile for subsequent sheathing with plasterboard, then you also need a tool for this work:

metal scissors;
drill;
knife or hacksaw;
screwdriver

Features of installation and toilets installation

As mentioned above, there are three options for “installation and toilet” combinations.

Wall-hung toilet with block design

Easiest for self-installation An option for mounting the system is to install the frame on the surface of the main wall and lay a quarter-brick partition below the structure to provide a reliable support for the wall-mounted toilet. The butt size of a single brick is 12.5 cm plus 1 cm of a vertical joint made of masonry mortar, and the resulting 13.5 cm is just right for most models whose installation depth lies within these limits.

Another option is to purchase a block installation, which includes two special floor supports to “support” the wall-mounted toilet bowl. These supports are placed on the sanitary ware fastening pins, and they do not allow the bowl to “fall” back. Such models include Geberit Kombifix (110.340.00.5). If such accessories are not included in the kit, they can be purchased separately, for example Geberit Kombifix stops (457.888.26.1) or Alcaplast mounting kit (M90).

Do-it-yourself installation of a block installation proceeds according to the following algorithm:

At the marked fastening points on the wall, holes are made with a puncher, to which the frame is screwed with dowels.
Drive in dowels or anchors and screw the frame to them.
Insert the tank into the frame and connect it to water pipe(a water supply tube may be included in the delivery package) and to the flush elbow.
Screw in the mounting studs to secure the bowl.
Connect the drain elbow to the sewer through an adapter pipe (from the kit or purchased additionally).

Wall-hung toilet with frame installation

This is the most common design option hidden installation- it is suitable for installation near any wall or partition, regardless of its load-bearing capacity.

Installation of the toilet installation takes place in the following sequence:

Holes for dowels are drilled at the marked attachment points to the floor and wall.
A cistern with a flush mechanism and a flush elbow is attached to the frame.
Install the frame and attach the legs to the subfloor.
It is adjusted in height and horizontal level using retractable support elements. The structure is secured with bolts in the required position.
Using metal fasteners, the structure is fixed to the wall. Typically these are studs with an adjusting head on the frame side and mounting angles or plates on the wall side.
Screw in the pins and lock. Install the mounting angles in place and screw them to the wall.
Adjust the position of the frame vertically by tightening or unscrewing the studs using a head (adjustment depth up to 45 mm). The position of the structure is secured with a lock nut.
Attach the cuff for the drain elbow to the frame. The elbow is installed, connected to the sewer pipe through an adapter, and fixed to the frame with a clamp.
Connect the tank inlet valve to the water pipe using the supplied or purchased adapter.
Attach the studs for the hanging bowl.
A button and a toilet are temporarily installed. They open the water, test the system for operability, check the tightness of connections and connections.
If no problems are found, the button and toilet are removed. Close the holes of both elbows with plugs and begin covering the installation.

Note. One of the features of installing a frame installation is the ability to install it on a finished floor surface. In this case, marking and installation are carried out without adjustments for the thickness of the finishing coating layers.

Floor-standing toilet with block installation

One of the low-budget options for using a block installation system is a concealed-mounted cistern without a frame with a front flush button. Moreover, this option can be used for walls made of any materials. The load from a 6-liter tank can be withstood by a half-brick wall or a frame made of a metal profile or wooden beam(if the tank is attached to the frame itself or embedded elements).

The only problem that may arise during installation is the alignment of the flush hole of the floor-standing toilet with the flush elbow of the cistern.

Attaching a floor-standing toilet to the installation

Correct installation of a floor-standing toilet on an installation is only possible if the tiles on the floor have already been laid or there is an exact level of the finished surface. In this case, markings are made on the wall by selecting the center of the flush hole in the toilet as the reference point rather than the flush key. And the installation takes place in the following order:

Select a location for installing plumbing fixtures.
They mark a vertical axis on the wall. Mark on it the point of connection of the floor-standing toilet to the flush elbow of the cistern.
The dimensions of the block installation and attachment points are noted relative to this point.
The tank is secured (in a niche, on the wall, in a frame partition).
Connect to a water pipe.
Install the flush elbow.
They make a sewer line (along the wall, in a grooved channel, inside a frame partition.
The system and toilet are temporarily connected. Check the operation and tightness of the system.
Close the flush and drain pipes with plugs, and the studs with tubes.
The installation is covered with plasterboard (with holes for flushing and draining). Or they seal the niche and grooves with mortar.
Conduct finishing walls.
Connect and secure the floor-mounted toilet.

Installation procedure for a wall-hung toilet

The hanging bowl is installed after the installation for the toilet has been installed and the finishing work has been completed. And depending on the type of installation, installation method and wall materials, there are the following options for preparation for finishing:

install a block or frame system and cover the entire surface from floor to ceiling double layer drywall;
install a frame or block system and make a box from plasterboard;
install a frame system in a frame wall;
install a frame or block system in a niche and or cover it with a layer of plaster.

After the installation and communications are “hidden” under the rough surface of the walls and floor, finishing is carried out with selected materials (tiles or decorative plaster). Then they begin to install the wall-hung toilet.

Note. It is believed that the maximum benefit from the hidden installation of the tank and communications is achieved if the installation for the toilet is installed in a niche.

Niche for installation

A niche is made in the wall for installation if the installation depth of the frame, materials and wall thickness allow such work to be performed. And in addition to the niche in the wall, they also cut channels for water and sewer pipes, which, like the installation, must be installed secretly.

Important. This method is not suitable for load-bearing walls made of bricks (for walls made of reinforced concrete, it is technically impossible to make a niche with your own hands). And if the arch of a niche can be reinforced with an insert made of a metal profile (standard practice for an opening), then this option is not suitable for hidden pipe laying - cutting horizontal channels into load-bearing wall prohibited at the regulatory level.
And without horizontal grooves, it is extremely difficult to make hidden wiring - only if the pipes approach the niche from below, and before it are laid in a screed or between the joists of a wooden floor.

For a niche in the wall, there is only one option provided by the manufacturer - for a block installation with an attached toilet.

In addition to this option, they also use a bathroom niche in which the water supply and sewer risers pass. In this case, a frame made of a metal profile is installed in a niche, and a frame installation for a wall-mounted toilet is attached to it.

Installation of a frame with a tank in a niche

The complexity of this method is that the installation of the frame in the niche is “non-standard”. The installation instructions from GEBERIT and GROHE do not cover this option, and the kit does not include fasteners for this.

Installation of the frame in a niche proceeds according to the following algorithm:

Mark the line for installing the legs on the floor, taking into account the installation depth, the location of the water and sewer risers. The markings must be perpendicular to the walls of the niche or in the plane of the adjacent surface.
The verticals on the walls of the niches are set off from this line.
Mount reinforced guides of the UA50 profile on the floor, side walls of the niche and ceiling.
Install the frame into the profile and fasten it to the floor, having previously drilled holes for the dowels.
Set the height of the legs and the horizontal level of the frame.
Fasteners (studs or other type of fastening) are made to a specific size to rigidly fix the installation to the “far” wall of the niche. Drill holes for these fasteners and attach the frame.
Cut a section of the UA profile to the width of the niche. Attach it to the side profiles and frame.
Install flush and drain fittings for a wall-hung toilet. Install studs to secure the bowl. Connect the tank to the water supply and the drain elbow to the sewer. Temporarily hang the toilet and connect it to the installation. Check the system for leaks and operability.
Remove the tank, close the flush and drain holes with plugs, and close the toilet studs with protective tubes. Attach plasterboard cut to size to the profiles in two layers.

Sewage supply

Supplying water to the toilet installation does not cause any difficulties. And for any connection of the tank (from the side or from above), lay a rigid or flexible pipe Half an inch is always possible. With connection to the sewerage system the situation is more complicated. The diagram for the installation shows two types of connections:

the knee goes down at a right angle;
the knee is rotated 45° in the plane of the frame.

In most cases, the connection of the installation to the sewer system is based on these options.

The first option, for example, is used for direct connection to the drain, when the frame stands in the same niche as it. The second option is used when laying a drain pipe to the riser along the wall.

But there are cases when both options are not suitable due to limited space and the unique geometry of the bathroom - the large diameter of rigid pipes and fixed elbow angles prevent this from being done correctly. And in order to solve the problem of how to turn a sewer elbow away from the installation and provide the required slope angle, they use, for example, D 90/110 MM FLEXI corrugation from the ALCAPLAST company. But in this case, it is necessary to check the slope of the corrugation.

Connecting communications

To connect to the water supply, the installation kit includes an inlet valve with an external outlet for a ½-inch pipe and an angle shut-off valve inside the installation.

For toilet installations with a bidet function, an additional tube is provided for the intimate hygiene fitting. And to ensure comfortable temperature, such models are also connected to the electrical network to heat water, which is used for washing. And for this purpose, fastenings are provided for mounting the protective tube of the electrical wiring.

How to check the system for functionality

After connecting to communications, before sewing up the installation, it is necessary to check the operation and the system for leaks. To do this, pre-install the toilet with the following installation:

adapters with cuffs and sealing rings are inserted into the flush and drain holes of the installation;
“put” the toilet on the studs and move it as close as possible to the installation so that the adapters fit more tightly into the toilet (it won’t be possible to push it in tightly - the pipes are too long);
open the shut-off valve on the inlet valve;
when the tank is full, drain the water (for pneumatics, you need to connect the button and flush valve with tubes, for mechanics, activate the flush valve rod by hand).

After checking and fixing possible malfunctions The toilet bowl, adapters and button are removed.

How to install a wall-hung toilet to an installation

Even when choosing a location and marking, it is ensured that the height of the wall-hung toilet from the floor without a lid is 40 cm. But if after laying the tiles it turns out that it will hang 2 cm higher or lower, this is acceptable.

The wall-hung toilet is mounted on studs after adjusting the size of the adapter pipes for connecting the toilet drain and flush to the installation:

Remove the protective plugs and tubes.
Insert the adapters into the elbows and mark the level “0” on them - the plane of the surface of the installation cladding.
Then insert the adapters with the other side into the toilet (put a sealing cuff on the flush bowl). Mark level “0” on the toilet.
The adapters are shortened by the difference between the two marks.

Place a gasket on the studs (it serves to protect the finish and dampen structural noise during flush operation) and begin installing the wall-hung toilet on the installation:

Rubber bushings are inserted into the holes for mounting the wall-hung toilet.
Insert adapter pipes into the drain and flush holes of the bowl.
Place the wall-mounted toilet on the studs so that the transition pipes fit exactly into their holes on the installation, and the bowl fits tightly to the wall.
Place elastic washers and steel washers on the studs and tighten the nuts.
Before finally tightening the fasteners, you can slightly adjust the horizontal level relative to the height of the toilet from the floor.

Installation of the flush button

According to the principle of operation, there are two types of toilet flush button: mechanical and pneumatic.

Even at the installation assembly stage, a flush valve is installed. Each company has its own design, but the principle of operation is common:

a mechanical button activates the flush using a pull rod, separate for each key - economy mode and full flush;
For a pneumatic flush, two tubes go from the valve to the button - for each mode there is one.

Installation of the flush button begins with its connection to the flush valve. For a mechanical drive, the rods (pins) must be “adjusted” in length and each connected to its own key, while for a pneumatic drive, the tubes must be connected.

Then the button is “snapped” into the socket.

Common Difficulties

The main problems arise due to the limited size of most bathrooms. This is especially true for strictly residential buildings, when in addition to the small “dimensions” there is added poor geometry of the room - the absence of right angles and parallels in the enclosing surfaces. In this case, even the slope of the wall is checked before installation. And leveling the walls further reduces the room for “maneuver” when installing the installation under the toilet.

Helps you avoid mistakes and rework right choice type and model of installation, as well as accuracy of marking, frame location and compliance with the installation diagram.

And the main condition is careful handling of mechanisms and sanitary ware. Even “tightening” the fastenings of the intake and exhaust valves or the hinged bowl can lead to a violation of the tightness of the connections or damage to the device itself.

What is important to know. It is necessary to buy installations and plumbing from reputable brands. It is better to do this with dealers or trading companies that have appropriate agreements with service centers and provide a guarantee for the purchased product. In addition, if necessary, you can buy additional accessories or a repair kit for the selected installation model from such sellers.

IN Lately The trend of installing a wall-hung toilet is gaining great popularity in the construction and finishing industry. This type plumbing and sewerage equipment is probably present in every home. In two thirds of houses, toilets are still installed using the old proven method - through floor mounting. Today, more and more often, preference is given to these suspended structures.

Why is this product so popular? Wall-hung toilets look better and more modern, which certainly affects the popularity of the product. You can save a lot of money by installing a toilet of this format. To do this, you will need to do one thing - learn how to install a wall-hung toilet yourself. Is this an impossible task?

Not at all, this can be done by anyone who reads the instructions and installation tips. The first step towards mastering the process self-mounting wall-hung toilet - delving into the main aspects of the design of the device.

Why is it so important to understand the features of a wall-hung toilet? Yes, because after this you will be much more likely to succeed in the process of installing the device. So, a standard toilet of this type consists of three parts, which include:

1. Steel frame (a reinforced element, since it is the basis for fastening the largest and heaviest element of the toilet, its bowl). It is strongly recommended to start the process of installing a wall-hung toilet with this component. The frame must be fixed to the wall and also attached to the floor, so that in the future the toilet can fully withstand the load of an adult’s weight. For this reason, the frame should never be mounted on fragile walls, an example of which are plasterboard partitions(there is a possibility that the fastening will be unreliable and the toilet will simply fall).

2. Drain tank (made of plastic, hidden from human eyes during the installation process by installing it in the wall itself). Its shape does not resemble the cistern of a standard floor-standing toilet, because it must fit in a rather narrow space. On the front wall of the tank there is a special cutout necessary for mounting trigger mechanism. Modern wall-hung toilet cisterns almost always have a metered flush function, thanks to which you can choose the volume of water used for flushing.

3. Bowl (the only structural element of a wall-hung toilet that is not hidden from humans. It is also its most actively used part. The standard shape of this component is oval, although today on the market of similar sanitary products you can also find toilets with round, rectangular or even triangular bowls) .

Another integral component of the design of a wall-hung toilet is a set of fastening materials, through which the device is installed and mounted to the wall and floor. Such materials include Teflon tape, polyethylene outlet, elastic hose, and studs.

Positive and negative aspects of installing a wall-hung toilet.

Before you decide to install a wall-hung toilet, you need to consider the main pros and cons regarding this issue.

TO positive aspects installations include:

saving space occupied by the device;
lack of an impressively sized drain leg;
faint noise from water draining;
extremely easy to care for.

However, we must not forget that installing a toilet with the designated design also carries a number of disadvantages, among which the following points stand out:

the need to mount the flush cistern inside a wall or niche (otherwise the size of the projection of a wall-hung toilet will not differ from that of a standard floor-standing device);
the likelihood of movement of sewer and water pipes;
the need to create a special recess for the cistern.

Methods for installing a wall-hung toilet.

On this moment Two methods have been developed for attaching a wall-hung toilet: on an installation or on a concrete base. The owner of a plumbing fixture has the right to choose between these options, guided by only two criteria: if he wants an almost one hundred percent guarantee of fastening that will not come apart even under serious mechanical stress, then he needs to pay attention to installation. If the main objective: install the toilet faster and without any significant material costs, then mounting on a concrete base is most suitable. Let us now pay attention to the aspects of each of these methods.

The main feature of this method of attaching a wall-hung toilet is that the device is attached to the wall using a special frame pre-installed into it, which plays the role of an installation. In order to correctly carry out fastening using this method without the help of professionals, it is necessary to strictly follow the installation plan, which is divided into several stages:

— Installation of the toilet frame. This structural component of the device is attached to the floor and main wall using dowels inserted into specially made holes. Next, at the attachment point, the sewerage and water supply pipes are removed. The installation itself must be level. Requirement for it: complete parallel contact with the wall to which it is attached. At this stage, you need to determine the height of the toilet above the floor. This figure is forty centimeters, but changes at the request of the homeowners;

— Supplying water to the tank. At the request of the device owner, the eyeliner can be supplied either elastic or rigid. Remember, while the water supply is being installed, the tank valve must be kept closed, otherwise a situation may arise with damage to the water supply;

— Connecting the toilet to sewer system. This stage begins with the toilet outlet being inserted into the sewer outlet, and after this operation the resulting connection is secured with corrugation. To accomplish this, the bowl of the wall-hung toilet needs to be screwed onto the installation for a short time. After this, it must be removed again; the time for its installation will come at one of the subsequent stages;

— Covering the work area with plasterboard. The sheets are attached to the frame already at the moment when it is fixed to the wall. Often, the user is provided with instructions for covering with plasterboard by the manufacturer of the product, who includes an algorithm of actions included with the toilet itself. Plasterboard covering can be carried out in two ways: either by completely covering the entire area of the wall, or by covering only the area of the installation itself. See the video of covering the installation with plasterboard below.

— Attaching the toilet bowl is the final stage, its essence: hanging this component of the device on a part of the steel frame using two small pins.

As you can see, there are no particular difficulties in self-installation there is no wall-hung toilet for installation, it is only necessary with great attention pay attention to the installation of the frame itself, since the reliability of the entire final result of the installation depends on its successful and verified fastening.

Installation of a wall-hung toilet on a concrete base.

This method differs from the previous one in that the toilet is mounted not on a frame built into the wall, but on a concrete base created by yourself. The standard list of parts required when installing a toilet in this way includes boards, nuts, screws and washers, two rods, the thread of which is no thinner than two centimeters, and the length ranges from half a meter to eighty centimeters, plastic pipe no shorter than ten centimeters, drain coupling and silicone sealant. In the future, the algorithm for attaching a wall-hung toilet without installation looks like this:

— two rods are mounted into the main wall. In the future, they will be enough to withstand a load of four hundred to five hundred kilograms, which is enough to firmly seat the toilet;

— the height of the toilet is set, after which you can trim and install the flush coupling;

- on the boards that will be used as formwork, places for holes for fasteners are calculated, after which you can begin installing them;

— the depth of the rods is calculated (usually it should not exceed fifteen centimeters), after which they are fixed in the wall using special glue for concrete;

The further process of installing a wall-hung toilet on a concrete base does not have any fundamental differences with the process of attaching a standard floor-mounted toilet. The drain is connected, the joints are sealed, the bowl is installed on rods, which are secured with nuts on top. The finishing touch installation of the drain tank above the bowl becomes necessary.

What makes this method of installing a wall-hung toilet fundamentally different from the previous one is that there is no need to purchase and install an expensive steel frame. It is with the help of this method of installing a plumbing fixture that it will be possible to save a lot of financial resources.

Cosmetic work after installing a wall-hung toilet.

After completing the main stages of installing a wall-hung toilet, all you have to do is take care of the filing and finishing of the device. Regardless of the chosen installation option for the device, plasterboard sheets are used for its cladding. When installing a toilet with an installation, these sheets close the flush cistern and the steel frame, while the toilet bowl and flush button remain open.

When installing without installation, you can use plasterboard to cover the concrete base, as well as the drain pipe. The hole for access to the tank remains open.

Installation of a wall-hung toilet with DIY installation. Video lesson.

Combined bathroom and toilet room The costs of repairs and the purchase of plumbing fixtures are comparable to remodeling a kitchen. They buy high-quality modern materials and products. The wall-hung toilet kit with installation has surpassed standard floor-mounted designs in popularity due to its compactness, original installation system and ease of use.

How to choose an installation for a wall-hung toilet?

Retail outlets offer various types products from Russian and foreign manufacturers. Installation hanging system in the toilet saves space for washing machine, sinks, boiler. Appears additional area for decorating a room. But, before purchasing an expensive product, you need to familiarize yourself with its qualitative and quantitative characteristics. Without studying the installation instructions for a wall-hung toilet, various troubles are possible - from water leaks to complete failure of the device.

The device is metal carcass, on which the plumbing fixtures are attached. There are installations with a wall-hung toilet and a button. Another option is automatic flushing without a separate button. When choosing between them and a floor-standing toilet, first of all, you need to pay attention to the dimensions of the products. The former stand 100-150 mm closer to the wall than the latter with a tank. There are no strictly regulated dimensions. Each manufacturer produces products based on consumer requests.

Second important point– operability of the flushing system. Conventional plumbing in this regard is not always reliable. It is characterized by the following problems:

button position;
the float does not operate;
weak water pressure;
valve clogged.

Modern designs are more reliable, so manufacturers provide a ten-year operating guarantee without fear of failure. The system may break down. There is no access to it, since it is covered with drywall or tiles. Engineers took this into account and created a release button.

The advantages of a wall-hung toilet with installation are:

reduced fluid consumption while maintaining flow power;
pneumatically operated button activated by air system pressing;
silent operation of the tank, hidden behind the wall and foam.

Ease of cleaning is an important factor in the operation of a suspended structure. A bathroom with a cistern is often placed in a secluded place. Therefore, approaching it is difficult. Difficult to wash reverse side products, corrugated drain hose, it is inconvenient to turn off the water supply tap. From all these problems suspension system delivered. The apparent unreliability of attaching a wall-hung toilet to the installation is erroneous. According to technical data, it can withstand a weight of up to 0.5 tons (the average weight of a person is 70-80 kg).

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The only disadvantage of a wall-hung toilet with installation is its price. It is several times higher than that of a regular bathroom. In Moscow you can buy a wall-hung toilet with complete installation at a price ranging from 13 thousand to 25 thousand rubles. Taking into account daily water consumption, operating costs, and durability of the structure, we must assume that expensive products will pay for themselves faster than a floor product. The cheapest product is not equipped with a flush button. Its cost ranges from 11 to 12 thousand rubles.

The disadvantage of installations is the difficulty of repair in case of water leakage. Therefore, which wall-hung toilet with installation is better to choose? , It's up to the buyer to decide. First of all, you need to pay attention to the manufacturer. The rating of wall-hung toilets is topped by several companies. Among them:

Geberit;
Grohe;
Cersanit;
Tece;
Villeroy & Boch.

The main difference between products from different manufacturers is the presence of a water release button, which can be designed in traditional form or equipped with touch controls with innovative odor removal. The frame may contain a carbon filter device. Grohe has added a backlight key. Models with two shutter buttons are sold different quantities water. One supplies 3 liters and the other 6 liters.

Installation costing from 6 thousand rubles involves the use of low-quality metal fittings, pipes and seals. Such a frame may soon become deformed and sealants may leak. Therefore, such “savings” will lead to even greater losses on repairs not only in your own apartment, but also in the one located on the floor below.

How to install a wall-hung toilet with installation?

Depending on the type of fastening, the technical product can be framed or block. The latter option includes a flat tank, drain button and fixing elements. The bathroom is mounted insulated on the floor or wall. The advantage is lower price compared to frame construction. The disadvantage is that the block must stand on a permanent wall. Drywall, foam block or brick partition one brick will not withstand the load. For zoning the area, a frame type of fastening is suitable. A corner installation for a wall-hung toilet, a free-standing partition, a niche for a flush cistern from the water supply lines - all these are options for the frame.

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TECE company produces reinforced installation for wall-hung toilets. Particular strength and rigidity are obtained due to the double frame. Geberi has improved the structure's supports. They are approximately the same in cost. Installation is allowed even on a non-main wall, or when there is a large distance from the partition to the toilet due to heating and water pipelines running along the floor. A practical example for a combined toilet and bathroom is a framed universal installation of a wall-hung toilet (pictured).

The dimensions of such a product are not regulated by rules. It is collected based on specific planning conditions. Individual nodes can be located in different parts premises, i.e. where it is convenient - in the corner, below, behind a partition and even in different rooms.

The block system is less versatile. It can only be fixed to a main wall. Repair, replacement of faulty parts, installation additional design are difficult tasks to accomplish. However, developed standard dimensions bathrooms that correspond to the height of a person in a sitting position. The width of the system ranges from 300-400 mm. The installation depth and height for a wall-hung toilet are 500-600 mm and 300-500 mm, respectively. Minor differences in height sizes are provided for people of different heights. But they do not cause much discomfort during use.

Installing a wall-hung toilet with do-it-yourself installation

No equipment installation required special knowledge and skills, the use of complex tools. But if you have no experience working with adjustable wrenches or sealing materials, then it is better to seek help from professionals.

You need to start by taking measurements from the floor surface to the edge of the frame pipe, taking into account the height of the bowl, but not more than 400 mm. If the height is greater, then it can be reduced by adjusting the screw device. Standard width installations for wall-hung toilets – 500 mm. The most common option is 10 mm.

The level checks the horizontal and vertical position of the system. The frame should be mounted at the same distance from the wall at the main points at which holes are drilled and dowels are inserted. Then they begin to install the sewer pipe, supply water to drain tank. The water supply and the tank are connected by a stainless steel tube. A rubber hose is not suitable for this purpose. It is imperative to provide for the installation of a shut-off valve at the liquid supply point in front of the drain tank. It is needed to immediately shut down the system in case of depressurization. Polyethylene corrugated pipes are used for sewerage. Then the frame structure is attached and connected to the water supply. After installation, all communications are checked for leaks by repeatedly draining the water.

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Space saving and aesthetic features are the main advantages of a wall-hung toilet, therefore, choosing this option, its owner certainly will not go wrong. If there are no special issues with the installation of the toilet, then its wall-hung “brother” will require sleight of hand due to the presence of an additional link in the bathroom - the installation. Installing a toilet installation with your own hands is not difficult if you have all the necessary Building tools and carry out the work step by step.

The uninterrupted functioning of the plumbing product depends on the installation sequence of the toilet installation. First of all, its installation itself is carried out, then the connection of the sewerage system, camouflage of visible elements and finishing are carried out. For clarity, below are photos and videos of installing the installation under the toilet, which will make it much easier to perceive the information.

Preparatory stage

First of all, you need to purchase an installation system along with the toilet. Unlike bidets, today there is a wide selection of bidets on the market. By their principle, they are all a hidden mounting frame. But here, as they say, to each his own.

The tools you will need are a hammer drill or a drill, a concrete drill with a diameter equal to the hole of the fasteners, spanners, building level, pencil and tape measure.

When all the necessary construction equipment is at hand, we begin marking and preparing the fastener system. It is important to measure the distance from the installation system to the wall surface and mark the location of the cistern. It would be correct to install it at a height of 100 cm from the floor.

Do not forget about fastening the installation itself: it is necessary to mark points for fastening elements on the surface of the wall and floor. In this case, fasteners should be given Special attention. Using a hammer drill, holes are drilled along the previously made marks, where anchors with dowels are inserted.

Installation of wall-hung toilets

The toilet installation diagram has a clear sequence:

a frame is installed in a pre-prepared place, which is fixed with special adjusting nuts and screws;
the installation body is adjusted horizontally and vertically;
The horizontal level is set by adjusting the design of the legs, and the vertical level by adjusting the anchor thread.

After installing the installation under the toilet, you need to connect the toilet to the sewer pipe. It was important to pre-install a drain pipe with a diameter of 110 mm and connect the water supply.

Regarding the water supply to the tank, experts recommend using a rigid pipe instead of a flexible pipe. Pipes from the cistern and sewer pipe are attached to fixing plastic clamps.

Finally, before installing the plumbing product, we once again check the tightness of all elements. Finally, we put on the PVC couplings, install the shock-absorbing gasket and the toilet bowl.