What you need to install vinyl siding. Step-by-step instructions for installing siding yourself with illustrations

For an unprepared person, a variety of materials for exterior finishing available on modern market, may cause some confusion.

Such advantages often become decisive factors when choosing siding for cladding a house. The only question remains the installation technology, which should be discussed in more detail.

If you have no experience finishing works, the best solution becomes siding, which has a number of advantages over other types of finishing:

• There is no need for “wet” work (applying plaster, etc.).
• Restrictions due to weather or temperature conditions is determined by the employee himself based on his own feelings.
• Installing the material does not require any special skills; the ease of installation makes it possible to cover the house yourself.
• The result of the work looks very impressive and lasts a very long time.

This article is a step-by-step installation instruction for dummies.

Siding is a cladding material used for exterior finishing of buildings. It has the shape of elongated narrow stripes with a longitudinal relief applied to them, imitating various options wooden building(most often) or, less commonly, masonry.

The strips (panels, lamellas) are equipped with special sides for fastening to the support on one side and for connecting to each other on the other. The design allows you to assemble canvases of any size from them.

The siding is assembled right on site, which is convenient and practical. The panels are lightweight, so they are easy to lift and carry. In principle, it is possible to work alone, but for large areas with long panels you need an assistant.

The birthplace of siding is Canada, where it was first produced.

The first samples were wooden, today there are different types material:

• (PVC, acrylic, etc.)

The most common are plastic (PVC) and metal types siding having best characteristics or the ones that most successfully combine quality with price.

In addition, there are many profile options:

• Timberblock.
• etc.

According to installation direction:

• Horizontal.
• siding.

Some types allow installation in both directions at the request of the owner.

Developers are constantly adding the lineup, therefore there cannot be an exhaustive list; the list always remains open.

Siding kit

In addition to panels that can only form planes, additional elements (extensions) are produced that serve to design joints different canvases at an angle or in one plane, for finishing window or doorways etc.

To standard types can be attributed:

• Simple and complex angle (external and internal).
• H-profile.
• J-bar.
• Starting bar.
• Finishing bar.
• Platband.
• Soffit.
• Near-window profile.

All additional elements fully correspond to the main panels in terms of material type, color or type of protective coating.

Attention! Sometimes trims of a different, contrasting color are used as decoration, which gives the cladding an elegant and original look.

Choosing lathing - which is better, wood or metal?

The sheathing is a system of planks arranged in a certain order perpendicular to the direction of the panels and serving as support for them. It is customary to use wooden blocks or metal guides for drywall as the material for the sheathing.

Disputes about this have been heard since the very first days of using cladding. Wooden planks have low thermal conductivity, while metal planks conduct heat very well and require insulation.

At the same time, wooden parts there is a common disease - they are susceptible to warping, deformation during drying and rotting. The metal profile does not create such problems; it is protected from corrosion by a layer of galvanization.

Another problem with wooden blocks is curvature. Choosing a perfectly straight one from a pack of bars is a difficult task, since the wood is highly susceptible to bending or twisting with a screw. The metal profile is almost perfectly straight.

Thus, more a good option To create the sheathing, a metal profile is presented, but you should take into account the cavity it creates and fill it in parallel with the installation of insulation.

Installation of the selected sheathing

Installation of the sheathing begins with the installation of the outermost strips (if you plan to install vertical siding, then the upper and lower ones). They are attached to the wall at the corners, the position is checked by plumb line. Then a cord (at least two) is stretched between the outer planks, which serves to check the position of the intermediate strips of the sheathing and ensure flatness.

The intermediate strips are installed in increments that allow the insulation boards to be tightly laid between them. To ensure flatness, pieces of wood, plywood, etc. should be placed under them in the right places.(for wooden sheathing) or adjust the height of the metal profile above the wall plane when using a direct (U-shaped) drywall hanger.

After installing the first layer of planks and carrying out intermediate operations, a counter-lattice is installed, which will directly serve as a support for the siding. It is installed perpendicular to the planks of the first layer (and, accordingly, to the siding panels), with a step ensuring optimal fastening sheathing (40-60 cm, in some cases - 30-40 cm).

The countergrid performs additional function providing a ventilation gap between the sheathing and the wall pie, ensuring the removal of steam a.

NOTE!

If you do not plan to install external insulation, then the load-bearing layer of the sheathing is installed immediately (perpendicular to the siding panels).

Insulation and waterproofing

During installation of the sheathing, external insulation of the wall can be performed. A material with a vapor permeability higher than that of the wall material is selected as insulation.. This point is very important, otherwise water (condensation) will accumulate at the boundary of the two materials, which will sooner or later cause the destruction of the wall.

Therefore, the most preferable insulation would be slab mineral wool, which allows water vapor to easily pass through. To cut off the ingress of moisture from the outside, a waterproofing layer should be installed. This is done at the stage of completing the installation of the first layer of sheathing and insulation.

A layer of waterproof membrane is installed on top, a material that facilitates the removal of steam, but prevents moisture from entering from the outside. The counter grille is installed on top of the waterproofing layer.

Installation of the starting strip (J profiles)

The starter strip provides support for the bottom row of siding panels. To install it, you need to draw a horizontal line along the perimeter of the house, which is 40 mm above the estimated bottom edge of the panels. Then the starting strip is applied with the upper edge to this line and fixed with self-tapping screws on the sheathing.

CAREFULLY!

The screws should not be tightened tightly; a small gap should be left for the free movement of the strip. The self-tapping screw is screwed in exactly in the middle of the elongated holes so that during temperature changes the part can move and compensate for the change in size without deforming the plane of the skin. This rule applies to all siding elements.

The next strip is not attached closely, but at a distance of 6 mm from the previous one to compensate for temperature stretches.

How is siding attached?

The siding panel is inserted with its lower edge into the lock of the starting strip, snaps into it, and the upper edge is fixed with self-tapping screws on the sheathing. The following panels are attached in a similar way, the sheathing “grows” from the bottom up (or sideways if the vertical type of siding is chosen).

Attention! In some cases, a top-down installation is used. It is believed that this option is less successful due to the possibility of rainwater penetrating into the lining space, but in practice no problems were found.

Installation of internal corner strips

The corners are installed before installing the main panels, immediately after attaching the starting strip. The internal corner profile is attached with the lower edge at the level of the starting strip; the screw density is recommended to be 25-30 cm.

If the starting strip prevents you from positioning the profile in the right place, nail strips should be cut from the corner profile to a length equal to the width of the starting profile plus the temperature gap.

If it is necessary to extend the corner strip, cut off the nail strips from the top by 30 mm and overlap the top one over the bottom one for proper water drainage. The amount of overlap is no more than 25 mm to ensure that the temperature gap is maintained.

You can make a corner connection using a J-bar, which is cheaper than a corner connection. This can be done using one plank, when it fits tightly with its outer edge to a row of panels on one side, and the panels on the second side are installed into it.

The second option is to use two strips on each side of the corner, in which case there is a danger of water entering the gap between the strips, since absolute tightness of the connection cannot be achieved here, in addition, temperature gaps are necessary in any case.

Installation of external corner strips

External corner strips are installed in a similar way, adjusted for the reverse geometry of the element. The same overlap joining technique is required, temperature gaps are required, etc. As a replacement for a complex corner, you can use two J-bars located close to each other at the corners.

For external corners, a simpler design method is possible - using a simple corner that is installed on top of the panels. In this case, the siding is installed first without a corner, so that the joint of the planes is as neat as possible, after which a simple corner is screwed on top. Often this option turns out to be the most preferable because it is simpler and for untrained people this option seems optimal.

How to extend siding strips

If it is necessary to end the panels, an H-profile or simple overlapping joint can be used. The size of the overlap is 25 cm; to implement it, you need to cut off the nail strip from one panel on top and part of the lock on the bottom to the length of the overlap plus a temperature gap of 12 mm. It is best to do overlap joining in different places - in each row of panels in different places, so as not to weaken the entire canvas.

Installation of H-profile

The installation of the H-profile is carried out simultaneously with the installation of the corner strips (immediately after the starting strip). The same rules apply as for corner profiles - trimming nail strips for joints and mandatory temperature gaps. The use of an H-profile makes longitudinal joining of panels more aesthetically pleasing and allows immediate cutting to length required quantity panels for this area.

Installation of ordinary siding panels

It begins immediately after installing the starting strip and corner and H-profiles. Siding can be immediately cut to the required length, not forgetting the need to leave temperature gaps, which for panels are 12 mm.

The starting bar has a lock, the same as the panels. The first lower strip is inserted into it until it is completely connected and secured along the upper nail strip with self-tapping screws.

The usual rules for siding apply - the self-tapping screw is screwed in exactly in the middle of the oblong hole and loosely fixes the part, leaving room for free movement. The next panel is attached in a similar way. The process of creating a plane itself is simple and does not require any special knowledge other than what is indicated.

Every 3 rows, a horizontal check is made and measures are taken to eliminate distortions if they are detected.

Loose connections or other reasons may disrupt the correct position of the panels, causing slight distortions. If you do not carry out constant monitoring, then by the end of installation the changes may become noticeable and the entire work will be ruined. Therefore, periodic monitoring and correction of the accuracy of the location of the lamellas to the horizontal is necessary.

How to go around windows and doorways with siding

They are decorated in almost the same ways, the only difference is the presence of rain tides on the window openings. The method of tying the opening depends on the depth of the block in the plane of the wall.

To design openings located in the same plane as the wall, platbands are used. They have grooves for the end placement of siding, so the installation of platbands is carried out before installing the main panels.

If the openings are up to 20 cm deep, then a J-bar is used. It is installed on top ready-made panels, on window box You need to secure the finishing strip around the perimeter.

For large opening depths, sets of the same siding panels are used, cut taking into account the temperature gap along the length of the slope and assembled according to the usual principle. A universal strip is installed along the perimeter of the window block, and a complex angle is mounted at the outer joint of the planes. In this case, it is also necessary to install additional panels before installing the main panels.

To finish the slopes, it is necessary to first install the sheathing on them, which is usually done during the construction of the main one, since the openings need to be insulated along with the plane of the walls. Regardless of the angle of slope, the sheathing of the openings is installed perpendicular to the main one, and the angle is ensured by the position of the finishing or universal strips.

Laying the finishing strip of siding

The finishing strip forms the top (final) edge of the last panel and fixes its position. installation is carried out almost simultaneously with the top panel. The plank is fixed strictly horizontally at the required height, the nail strip on the last panel is cut off.

The panel, with its trimmed edge, on which the locking profile remains, is inserted into the slot of the finishing strip and snaps into it. The shape of the profiles is such that the required gap is maintained, and the lock reliably fixes the panel in the plane of the canvas.

NOTE!

For the correct installation of the finishing strip and the last panel, an accurate calculation made in advance is required, or the possibility of some level discrepancy if a separate pediment cladding is planned.

Installing siding on gables

Either in the same way as the facade, or using a vertical arrangement of siding panels in contrast to the main fabric. Some fairly precise cutting to length and angle will be required.

A design feature is the need to provide a temperature gap in combination with cutting the panels at an angle, which may result in errors, so careful measurements will be required. It is recommended to start installation from the back sides of the house so that you have some experience before moving to the front side.

Useful video

In this video you will learn how to install siding:

Conclusion

Installing siding with your own hands is simple and quite accessible procedure which you can do yourself. The main condition is loose fastening of parts and compliance with temperature gaps; all other subtleties are comprehended intuitively along the way. To successfully complete the work, you should stop rushing and act thoughtfully, then the result will become a source of pride for the owner of the house.

In contact with

Siding – modern material, which is used for covering wooden and brick walls. During installation work you will be able to insulate the walls of your house, which will not only save you a lot, but also increase the level of comfort in general. Assembling siding is a simple process that even a beginner can do.

But first you need to familiarize yourself with the basic rules of installation and watch videos from the masters. The apparent simplicity of the process also hides some pitfalls - the installation technology takes into account the effect of expansion and contraction of the material when the temperature changes.

An important element for installing siding is the sheathing., which is necessary for installing vinyl or metal panels. To arrange it, you also need to follow some rules, which we will tell you about. Therefore, the question is, Profile for siding - the basis of installation work - key element of this article.

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Step by step guide

Siding assembly instructions – key document, which a good manufacturing company necessarily supplies its products with. This documentation contains the necessary recommendations and technological methods for installing materials.

Note! You must strictly adhere to the instructions in the instructions, otherwise you may lose the product warranty.

General rules

• Do not drive nails all the way in. Always leave a gap of 1 to 1.5 mm between their caps and the facing material.

Note! After fastening, the siding panels should move freely in the horizontal direction.

• Drive the nail exactly into the center of the mounting hole.
• The siding assembly technology provides for a compensation gap between the siding and accessories (5-6 mm). If installation occurs in cold weather, leave a gap of about 9-10 mm.
• Once the siding panel is clicked into place with the bottom element, do not use any force to tighten it further.

Tools

1. Circular electric saw and hacksaw for metal.
2. Metal ruler, hammer and tape measure.
3. Pliers.
4. Screwdriver and awl.
5. Knife and scissors for metal.
6. Building level.

Surface preparation

1. Securely secure old loose wall boards, replacing them with new ones if necessary.
2. If necessary, remove any remaining plaster around window openings and doors.
3. Remove from home drainpipes, window sills and various fastenings.
4. Remove any plants that are in contact with the wall.

Installation of sheathing

Most often, the sheathing is made from boards or wooden slats– the price of such materials is low compared to metal profiles. To install horizontal siding, the sheathing elements must be installed vertically with a step between them of 0.3-0.4 m.

Related articles:

Note! For vertical installation panels, the rules for installing the sheathing are the same, but install it horizontally.

Before you learn how the siding is assembled, you need to pay attention to the fact that the sheathing allows you to carefully and evenly install the insulation boards. This will not only increase the efficiency of the house, but will also prevent the manifestation of the so-called "wave" effect.

Advice! When using insulation in slabs or rolls, please note that loose material cannot be used - it can become deformed.

Siding installation

• Using a level, string and chalk, mark a horizontal line on the wall around the entire perimeter of the house. Use as a reference position the first nail to be driven 4.0 cm above the lowest point of the house.
• Secure the starting strip with nails, placing it with the top edge on the drawn chalk line. Don't fix it too tightly.
• When adding sections of the starting strip, leave a distance of about 6 mm between adjacent elements, which compensates for possible expansion.
• At the junction of the walls, install internal corners, taking into account the distances to the cornice and the starting strip. Attach this accessory with nails in the center of the holes - it should hang freely on them, and not be tightly nailed!

• The siding assembly diagram requires the use of a similar technology for installing an external corner, which is mounted leaving a distance of 6 mm to the cornice.
• The J-rail is fastened around various openings, nailing it to them not too tightly.
• To install the first element, you need to insert the bottom edge of the panel into the starting strip and nail its top edge. Start assembling the siding from the back of the building, gradually moving towards the facade.
• Next, we'll look at how to assemble the siding after completing the installation of the first row. To continue the installation, each time you need to install a new row, starting from the back of the house, again moving towards the gable. Siding panels must be positioned so that the joint of their top row does not end up above the joint of the bottom row.

• To install panels under the window, cut right size elements. Measurements will be required. Place the siding under the window and, holding the panel, mark on it the width of the opening, in addition to which add 6 mm on each side.

• To install the last panel of siding under the eaves, nail one or more finishing strips flush to the side of the house. Do the joining of the parts exactly as shown in the photo.

Summary

Now you know how to properly assemble siding. Carry out all installation operations in full accordance with the instructions - an excellent result will not be long in coming.

is a modern cladding material for finishing buildings with a rich assortment color range and textures.

It performs several main functions:

1. Decorative, since it has an impeccable appearance thanks to the variety of textures and shades.
2. Protective: from the influence of various weather phenomena and the external environment.
3. Insulation: if there is thermal insulation material between the frame slats.

Siding panels are made from various materials: wood, steel, cement, ceramics, vinyl.

Vinyl siding has gained particular popularity in the construction market due to its low price, durability, decorative properties and quality characteristics:

1. Frost-resistant.
2. Does not require special care.
3. Wear-resistant and durable.
4. Easy to install.
5. Easy to transport thanks to its small size and weight.
6. Environmentally friendly and non-toxic.
7. Does not corrode.
8. UV resistant.

The undoubted advantage of siding is that you can use it for cladding a house without inviting specialists, with your own hands.

How to attach?

Fastening the panels is recommended with galvanized or aluminum nails, staples to wood, but practitioners often use self-tapping screws, which are convenient for working at heights using a screwdriver and a magnetic attachment. The main thing is resistance to corrosion, otherwise over time the appearance will be spoiled by rusty spots.

The procedure for installing the panels is as follows:

1. Base covering and drainage installation. The house may have a base in the same plane with the wall or protruding. For the second option, you need a rain drain, which can be made from a siding drain strip, a galvanized corner or a metal-plastic corner. First, the corner is processed, the joint is sealed with silicone. A flashing is installed from the corners, with the joint of the planks overlapping. Below, under the ebb, a rigid rail is attached along the entire length of the base. Using a level, a strictly horizontal line is checked. It is recommended to do low tide around the entire perimeter of the house.
2. Setting up a starting profile. The starting panel at the bottom of the plinth is mandatory, since the rigidity and appearance of the entire cladding structure depend on it. First, you need to mark the lower level of the sheathing in one of the corners. Then drive a nail 4 cm higher. The same is done in the other corner of the wall. A line is drawn that is drawn along the perimeter around the house with similar markings. The edges of the nail strips are marked on the sheathing. The upper edge of the starting profile is installed along the marking line. The starting line must be strictly horizontal. Further, it will be hidden by subsequent panels.
3. At the interface of the plinth and the main facade, it is possible to install a border, which will become the basis of the next row.
4. Installation of corner panels. Corner profiles are attached immediately after completing the starting line. The panels are overlapped to protect the joint from water ingress. It is necessary to ensure that the joint is at the same level in all corners. The main fastening step is 2-2.5 cm. Fastenings are made in the center of the holes and are not recessed to the limit.
5. Design of door and window openings. Special window J-profiles with a shelf are used for finishing slopes. Finishing profiles are attached around the perimeter. In deep niches, conventional cladding using an angular profile is possible. Under the window opening, row panels are cut to the width of the window, taking into account the required gap.
6. Installation of facade elements. Row panels are attached from the starting strip. Don't forget about the gaps on both sides of the profile. Every third row is recommended to be checked with a level for horizontalness.
7. Roof overhangs and gable. For finishing with perforation. This allows the roof to be ventilated. The soffits are fastened every 30 cm. In the design of the pediment, a J-profile or corner profile is used.
8. Joining siding. The service life and appearance of the building depend on correct docking. Please note:
   • General starting rule: join the horizontal position of the siding from bottom to top, and the vertical position from the corner or midline of the wall.
   • When temperature changes, the deformation occurs not in the width, but in the length of the panels. Therefore, play at the joints is required.
   • When installing, do not put pressure on the profile, do not stretch, do not allow rigid joining.
   • The profile is fixed from the middle of the bar to the edges when mounted horizontally, from top to bottom when mounted vertically.

Despite general rules and the order of work, each type of siding has some of its own characteristics:

1. U vinyl siding, the largest thermal expansion: one panel, 3 m in size, changes length by 10-12 mm with temperature changes. Metal siding is not subject to deformation.
2. When cutting metal siding Strong heating should not be allowed, as the polymer layer along the edge is destroyed, and over time rust will appear there.
3. On cold days, vinyl panels should not be cut with a knife or scissors - there will be cracks along the cut line.
4. Fastening need to be done on a metal sheathing, since the wooden guides near the ground will quickly become unusable.

Sheathing components and surface preparation

Main components include:

1. Start profile. In order to give rigidity to the bottom row, not a vinyl, but a steel panel is attached. Placed at the very bottom of the trim so as to remain hidden. The starting panel can be cut down, leaving the part with perforations and a receiving lock.
2. J-profile. It is used to decorate windows and doorways, covers the side edges of panels on the facade, and can be used as a finishing profile at the junction of angles other than 90 0 .
3. Corner profile. Designed for joining panels at both external and internal corners.
4. H-panels. They serve as a connection if the length of the sheet does not allow covering the wall completely. It is possible to connect two J-profiles.
5. Finish panels. They are used to complete the cladding of building walls. Cover the last siding profiles.
6. Soffit panels. Serve for decorative finishing cornices, fastened using a J-profile.

Additionally, you will need ventilation vents and other possible accessories made of the same material as.

Surface preparation includes the following necessary work:

1. Weed removal, dirt, etc.
2. Dismantling decorative ornaments , platbands, window sills, shutters, etc.
3. Wooden walls check for the presence of rotten elements, remove and treat with an antiseptic.
4. Treat with sealant places where moisture can penetrate: cracks, cracks, pipe insertions, etc.

In order to create thermal insulation and reduce the load on the walls, the sheathing is fastened to the prepared sheathing. It is impossible to mount the profile on walls, even fairly smooth ones.

Installation of sheathing

Installation of wooden sheathing

If the new wooden walls are perfectly smooth, no lathing is done. But this happens very rarely. For stone and block surfaces, sheathing is required. Its installation is necessary to ensure support of the siding in one plane.

The sheathing frame maintains free space between the wall and the sheathing, which allows it to retain heat in winter and protect it from overheating in summer.

The material for the sheathing is selected depending on the type of surface:

1. On wooden walls – wooden beams.
2. On stone walls – wooden beams, PVC slats or galvanized profile.
3. On brick and concrete walls– galvanized profile.

The procedure for making the sheathing is as follows:

1. Using a level and tape measure you need to draw straight lines around the perimeter of the wall until you get a closed contour.
2. Adhering to the wall starting from the corners, vertical guides are attached. If necessary, pieces of wood or foam can be used for compaction. The installation step is 30-45 cm.
3. Guides, you need to add in places of additional load on the panels, around windows and doors.

1. Do not connect vertical guides horizontal slats to maintain ventilation under the siding.
2. Dry the wooden sheathing well To avoid warping, treat with a fire retardant and antiseptic.
3. Use stainless nails.

At the same time, the building can be insulated with polystyrene foam, glass wool or polyethylene, provided that the ventilation space is preserved. Therefore, the thickness of the timber or sheathing slats should be greater than the insulation layer. Do not allow moisture to accumulate behind the siding panels to prevent mold or mildew from developing.

1. Do not cut a large volume of profile, based on preliminary calculations. Errors may occur. Therefore, prepare the material better in parts, for each section separately.
2. Do not drive nails through the siding panel or screw in self-tapping screws. Use only designated holes.
3. In panel fastening, use nylon washers - they will provide resistance in strong winds.

Finishing with siding is the second life of a house, which has retained its strength and received a new aesthetic appearance.

Sheath the house siding even a beginner can do it. It is enough to know the procedure and some nuances. If as facing material you decided to choose vinyl siding, do-it-yourself installation is done more than simply.

Rules for installing vinyl siding yourself

Vinyl siding has a significant thermal expansion. Don't fasten siding through vinyl ! To attach it to mounting strip there are special elongated oval holes. Fastening horizontal elements siding installed in the center of the holes. Fasteners of all vertical elements siding is also made in the center of the holes, except for the first one. The first nail or screw is installed to the top edge of the hole at the top of the panel siding . It turns out that the vertical panel will hang on this screw, and the remaining fasteners will secure its position.

Siding you need to attach it to the sheathing or wall, but do not pull the canvas to it, leaving a gap of 1 mm. Otherwise, on a hot sunny day, the panel will lengthen and, pressed tightly against the sheathing or wall, will turn into an “accordion”, and on a frosty winter night, on the contrary, it will shrink and burst. Not tight fasteners allow siding perform thermal compression-extension without negative consequences. For the same reason, do not fasten the panels with screwed in at an angle or with bent fasteners. They stretch the panel and interfere with its temperature movement. If it is impossible to install the fastener in the center of the mounting hole, increase the length of the hole with a notch or any other available tool.

Sometimes there is no other way to attach short cut panels than to secure it through the vinyl. In this case, make a hole with a notch in the upper part of the panel and secure it.

At connect the latch and fasten the siding without tension. Otherwise, you will not only stretch the panel profile and make it unattractive, but also increase friction in the lock and at the same time jam the panel at the fastening point. All this will prevent thermal expansion of both the panel being fixed and the already fixed panel.

When entering horizontal siding in any adjacent profile, for example, in a corner, J or H-profile, leave a gap of approximately 6 mm between the inserted panel and the bottom of the gutter of the receiving profile, and for winter installation - 9 mm. Otherwise, even properly secured siding on a hot sunny day will lengthen, rest its ends against the bottom of the gutters and bend in waves, or bend the receiving profile. When installing vertical panels and accessories, leave a gap in the gutters: 3 mm at the top and about 6 mm at the bottom. Do not ignore the fastening part of the siding panel. If you see that during thermal elongation of the panels, the fastening parts of different panels may rest against each other, then trim them.

Use galvanized screws for fastening. Vinyl siding serves for 50 years, during which time the corroding fasteners will rust and dirty smudges will appear. If corrosive fasteners are initially used and correct installation, the siding sheathing will remain beautiful for its entire service life. For fastening siding use self-tapping screws with a thickness of about 3 mm and a head diameter of at least 8 mm. The installation step of the fasteners is equal to the step of the sheathing and is 40 cm.

In other words, when DIY vinyl siding installation secure it so that nothing interferes with its natural movement as a result of temperature changes. Siding panels must move freely due to thermal contraction and expansion, without resting against anything. This is the main installation rule.

Do not push the screws close to the panel. Leave a gap of approximately 1 mm between the head of the fastener and the siding panel. The panel should be secured, but not tightened. During installation, insert the lock hook into the mating part without tensioning the panel.

Vertical siding Horizontal siding Install fasteners in the center of the holes. One incorrectly installed fastener can stop thermal expansion and cause the panel to warp. The first fastener for a vertical panel is placed at the edge of the hole, the rest in the center.

Setting up starting strips When installing starting strips, leave a gap of 12 mm between them. When joining wall panels“overlap”, trim the fastening parts so that after installation there is a gap of 12 mm between them.

Inserting horizontal siding into the adjacent profile and installing vertical panels When inserting horizontal siding into an adjacent profile, leave a gap of 6-9 mm between the end of the panel and the gutter of the adjacent profile. When installing vertical panels or accessories, leave a gap in the gutters: 3-4 mm at the top, and about 6-8 mm at the bottom.

WALL PREPARATION

Before installation siding you need to complete all facade work, caulk the seams in the chopped walls, remove unnecessary nails and other fasteners, install thermal insulation (if provided for by the project). On walls being repaired, trims should be removed from window and door openings, rotten boards should be replaced, and all loose structures should be secured.
On frame walls siding can be attached directly to the wall, provided that the wall and corners are level. On stone, block and uneven wooden walls, siding is attached to leveling sheathing. Siding installation not necessarily done on vertical surfaces. The wall must be flat over the entire plane: without bulges and without “screws”. You can also cover inclined surfaces with siding, but it’s easier to work with vertical ones.

Options for preparing walls for siding installation

When installing the sheathing, use dry wood (humidity - 12–14%), otherwise the sheathing will shrink when it dries, and so will the siding. Bars with a cross section of 25 (30, 40, 50) x 60 mm or galvanized plasterboard profiles of the same width are used, treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. Wide laths prevent fasteners from falling through any placement of the siding panel.

The sheathing is installed around the perimeter of the walls being tiled, including roof gables and along the perimeter of windows, doors, and other openings and openings. It is better not to use lower horizontal perimeter gratings; they interfere with air exchange under the siding sheathing. The remaining laths are for horizontal siding installation are installed vertically on the wall, and for vertical installation siding, respectively - horizontally. Keep the distance between the slats approximately 40 cm. The slats should be attached to the wall in increments of 40 cm.

The work begins with the installation of corner gratings. Then the cords are pulled between them and the rest of the laths are stuffed. The distance from the slats to the wall is adjusted by direct hangers, but other fastening methods can be used, for example, wooden leveling pads. The verticality and evenness of the sheathing is controlled by a building level (alcohol or laser), or a plumb line and cords. If the cladding is carried out according to inclined surfaces, then the evenness of the installation of the laths is controlled by a long, even strip or cords.

Installation of laths for siding installation

It is convenient to fasten and level wooden and galvanized slats with straight hangers.

Fastening direct hangers

Attach all straight hangers to the wall, one above the other, using a plumb line. Insert the lath into them. Bend the hangers and secure the lath in the upper hanger. Align the lath vertically and secure it in the lower hanger. Secure the lath to all hangers. Bend or break off the protruding ends of the hangers.

INSTALLATION OF HORIZONTAL SHIRTING

1. Setting up starting strips
Using a water level, we find the lowest corner and, stepping back 5 cm, we go around the perimeter of the house with a water level, marking the line for installing the starting strips with nails driven shallowly into the corners. They must arrive at the same point from where they started. We stretch the cords between the driven nails.

Marking the line for installing starting strips	Marking the location of the nail strips
Installing starter strips along cords

We attach a corner profile to each corner of the house siding and mark on the sheathing the places where the edges of the nail strips of the corner profile will be located. Departing from these marks horizontally 6 mm along a cord stretched between the nails, we install the profiles of the starting strips on the sheathing. It is necessary to leave a gap of 10–12 mm between the starting strips. The profiles of the starting strips should not rest against the nail strip of the corner profile and each of the profiles should not rest against another similar profile. Then, during thermal elongation, they will not receive expansion, therefore, the siding attached to them will not bend.

You can do it differently. Do not retreat the starting strip from the nail strip of the corner profile, but in this case it will be necessary to trim the nail strip of the corner profile so that during thermal elongation it does not rest against the starting profile and does not bend the corner profile.

Strictly ensure that the starting strips are installed horizontally! Deviation from the horizon will lead to skew of ordinary siding panels. To level it, in addition to trimming the ends of the panels, you will also have to tension siding, and this is not acceptable. It will warp later. Don't waste time on correct installation sheathing and starting strips.

Before installing external and internal corner profiles, you should install cornice soffits or mark their installation location.

If the length of the corner profile exceeds the height of the wall being tiled, measure on the profile the required length equal to the height of the corner plus 3 mm. With the profile against the corner of the house and 3mm away from the roof eaves or soffits, install the fastener at the top of the topmost nail hole on either side of the corner. The part will hang vertically on these two nails and be 3 mm from the roof eaves, and its lower end will be 6 mm lower than the starting profile. When cladding houses with protruding plinths or when the extension of the corner profile will be interfered with installed structures, for example, when covering verandas - floors, profiles are cut and made shorter than required by the corner being covered. In this case, a gap of 3 mm is left in the upper part of the corner profile between the profile and the cornice, and the bottom is trimmed, it should not reach the obstacle (existing floor or plinth) by 6 mm. After checking the verticality of the corner profile, install the remaining fasteners at the centers of the nail holes at a distance of 25 to 40 cm from each other. Don't fasten too tightly.

Installation procedure for external corner profiles

If the height of the wall corner is greater than the length of the vinyl corner profile, join the two profiles. All corner profiles at all corners of the house are joined at the same height. To do this, on the upper corner profile, use metal scissors to cut off the nail strip along with the shaped elements of the profile, leaving only two flat strips that form the corner. First, install the lower corner profile, then, on top of it, the upper one. The result is a knot protected from rain and snow. The main conditions that must be met are that the gap between the nail strips of the profiles must be at least 9 mm, and the overlap of the panels must be at least 25 mm.

Instead of a corner profile, you can line the corner of the wall with two J-profiles. However, the corner will be less airtight. Therefore, the corner covered with J-profiles must first be protected by a strip of rolled waterproofing.

3. Installation of internal corner profiles
This is done in the same way as installing external corner profiles. The profile is cut to the required length, leaving 3 mm for the temperature gap between the end of the corner profile and the cornice or soffit. The lower edge of the corner elements is lowered 6 mm below the level of the lower edge of the starting strip. Or, on the contrary, it rises by 6 mm if there is a floor or other obstacle below that interferes with the thermal expansion of the profile.

Installation of internal corner profiles
Joining two corner profiles

The height of the corner is joined with an overlap in the same way as in the outer corners. When installing corner profiles, you must leave a gap of at least 9 mm between the nail strips and ensure that the top panel overlaps the bottom panel by 25 mm. Fastening is carried out in increments of approximately 40 mm in the center of the holes, the upper fastening is carried out to the upper edge of the hole.
Internal corners can be worked, just like external ones. budget option, from two and even from one J-profile.

4. Installation of trim around windows and doors

Installing trim around windows

Window and door blocks those installed in the same plane with the wall or protruding from the wall are lined with J-profiles or platbands. Before installing window and door frames, the openings are protected with waterproofing: aprons made of roofing tin, aluminum foil or roll bitumen waterproofing.

Prepare two trims for the top and bottom of the opening and two trims for the sides. The length of all elements is made equal to the height and width of the opening, respectively, plus two heights of the vinyl profiles used. At the top profile, cuts are made on both sides, equal to height profiles used. At the point of the cut, the vinyl bends down, forming “tongues.” These bent pieces of vinyl will drain water from the top to the side profiles. The side profiles are inserted into the cut out part of the top profile so that the tongue is inside them. To do this, you need to cut out pieces of vinyl at the top of the side trims.

The lower casing is inserted inside the side profiles. To do this, tongues are also cut out in the side profiles, and “windows” are cut out in the bottom profiles, equal to the height of the inserted profile. The tongues of the side profiles are folded onto the lower profile, covering the cut area of ​​the lower profile with them and pressed against the protruding window. If the window is made flush with the wall, the “tongues” are folded inside the lower profile or cut off.

Window and door blocks installed in a wall niche are lined with near-window profiles. The near-window profile is essentially a modernized platband, in which a shelf has been added to cover the slopes of the wall niche. Therefore, the installation of the near-window profile is carried out according to the same rules as the platband. The shelves of the window profile covering the slopes are cut to the depth of the niche and inserted into pre-installed Holzplast finishing profiles.

Cladding of window blocks installed in a wall niche
Installation of window profile

5. Installation of the first panel
Hook the bottom of the row panel into the lock of the starting strip and attach it without tension top part to the sheathing. Start installation from the back facade of the house, you will gain experience there. In addition, extending the panels overlapping along their length, when installing from the rear corners of the facades, makes the joint less noticeable.

Installing the first panel

In winter DIY vinyl siding installation The extension of a solid panel can be 18 mm. Leave gaps for thermal expansion. At summer installation siding must also leave gaps. In the sun, the siding will still receive some increase in length, and in winter it will become shorter and at too much large gap may come out of the adjacent profile gutter. In other words, leave gaps in the adjacent profiles of 6–9 mm. When installing in hot weather - 6, and in cold weather - 9 mm. At temperatures below -20°C, do not install siding. Please note that the gap sizes are indicated for a solid siding panel. A short panel cut to length will not have such an increase in length and, if necessary, the gaps for thermal expansion can be left smaller.

Joining siding along the length

Siding can be joined along its length in two ways: overlapping and using an H-profile. For overlapping siding panels, the nail and locking parts are trimmed so that the overlap of the panels is approximately 25 mm.

When installing the H-profile, its upper part is lowered below the soffit or cornice by 3 mm to provide a temperature gap so that when expanded, the panel has freedom of movement upward and does not rest against the roof elements. At the bottom, the H-profile is lowered below the lower limit of the starting profiles by 6 mm. If there is a structural restriction at the bottom of the H-profile (protruding plinth, porch, floor, etc.) that prevents its downward thermal expansion, then a gap of 6 mm should be left between the lower end of the profile and the restriction.

Increasing the length of the H-profile is done by overlapping joining. The joining is structurally reminiscent of the joining of two corner profiles - the upper profile overlaps the lower one. The placement of the H-profile on the wall must be thought out in advance so that the vertical section of the row panels, visually emphasized by the H-profile, fits organically into the overall picture of the siding sheathing.

6. Installation of subsequent panels
Check the level of horizontal installation of every third row. Having reached the bottom of the window opening with the installation of row panels, you need to trim the siding mounted under the opening to the width of the window opening plus two sizes of horizontal temperature gaps (a gap of 6 mm in each direction). The cut ends of the siding will fit into the receiving gutter of the window profile or casing and will have room for thermal expansion. The cutout depth of the row panel should provide a minimum (1–2 mm) vertical temperature gap between the panel and the receiving gutter of the lower frame of the opening.

Siding cut under and above the window so that when the side trims or near-window profiles enter the gutters, a gap of 6 mm is obtained between the cut ends and the bottom of the gutters of the side profiles.

Between siding and vertical surfaces need to leave a gap of 3 mm. Since the nail strip on the bottom panel and the lock on the panel above the window will be cut off when marking the siding, you need to punch through and bend the hooks on the siding. Install the finishing profile into the lower and upper window profiles. During installation, insert the siding panel into the finishing profile and hook it to it. If platbands are used as window cladding, hook the siding panel directly to them. Finishing profiles are not needed in this case.

Depending on the depth of siding trimming, install the finishing profile using leveling pads from siding scraps or without them.

Fastening the row panel to the lower and upper trim of the window is ensured by “hooks” that need to be made with a punch (punch) onto the panel cutout. Siding trimming can be done to different depths, depending on the height of the window on the facade, therefore, when using near-window profiles for planar alignment siding, A finishing profile is additionally installed in the lower trim of the opening.

7. Installing siding under the roof eaves
The final siding panel under the roof eaves is made from regular siding panel. To do this, a finishing or J-profile or complexes of J and finishing profiles, or internal corner and finishing profiles are mounted under the roof eaves.

Installing siding under the roof eaves

Install a system of J and finishing profiles under the cornice, either only J or a finishing profile with leveling pads. If the cornice will be sheathed with soffits, then install the system from the profile internal corner and finishing profile. After marking and cutting the siding panel, finish the sheathing.

Installing siding under eaves covered with soffits

Measure the distance m (from the lock to the bottom of the gutter of the under-eaves profile minus 3 mm), transfer this distance to the solid siding panel. Cut it to length. Make hooks on it and install the siding panel, snapping the bottom lock into place.
In several places along the length of the siding, the distance from the lock of the penultimate row panel to the bottom of the gutter of the final profile is measured. A vertical temperature allowance of 1–2 mm is subtracted from the resulting dimensions. The results of measurements and calculations are transferred to the entire panel, from which the upper locking part is cut off. On the top of the cut siding, “hooks” are punched at approximately 20 cm intervals and folded over to the front side. Siding cut to height with hooks is inserted into the lock of the penultimate panel and inserted with the upper part into the final profiles. An upward motion snaps the siding into the locks.

8.Installation siding to the pediment
Roof gables are sheathed around the perimeter with a J-profile or internal corner profile. Their fastening is carried out according to the rules for installing vertical elements, i.e. the upper fastener is installed to the upper edge of the nail hole, the rest - in the middle of the holes.

Installing siding on the gable

Installation of ordinary siding panels is done in the same way as on walls, with trimming the edges of the receiving profiles entering the gutter. Remember to leave a gap of 6 mm between the siding and the bottom of the gutter (6 mm in summer and 9 mm in winter). The topmost siding panel is secured to the center of the top with a stainless nail or self-tapping screw through the vinyl. This is the only place where fastening is allowed.

Siding is one of the varieties building materials for wall cladding. With its help, you can completely change appearance a private house, if the house is still good, but already quite old. In addition, finishing and siding are used for the outside.

Layed on top of the insulation, it not only hides it, but also improves the entire exterior of the house. It is for this reason that many home owners decide to make such changes to the appearance of their home. Step-by-step instructions will help you do all the work correctly. self-cladding houses with siding.

A little history

This type of cladding was invented by our Pomors. For hunting, durable, light vessels were needed. It was in shipbuilding that this type of ship plating was used. Actually, the word siding itself is translated as plank. Northern peoples adopted this technology to insulate their homes, lining their houses with planks. In addition to insulation, this technology made it possible to speed up the construction of houses on the northern coast, and was very popular among Russian pioneers.

Nowadays, siding is made from modern building materials:

• Vinyl;
• Metal;
• Cement (fiber cement siding);
• Tree.

Various types of siding allow you to completely change the appearance of a private home without significant financial costs.

Preparation for sheathing

Preparatory work for covering a house with siding is not very difficult. The entire building will need to be carefully inspected and several measurements taken. If sagging of masonry mortar is visible, you just need to knock them down. Either drive the protruding nails back or remove them altogether. If possible, small protrusions more than 6 mm in height should also be eliminated.

Inspection

When inspecting the house, it is also necessary to identify unevenness of the walls, base, corners, window openings and other architectural elements - in general, wherever siding work is planned. It is better to carry out such measurements using a long reference metal slats, cord and tape measure. Deviation from the plane is permissible no more than 12 mm. In local places – no more than 6 mm.

Simply put, if the entire wall is not rectangular shape, and diamond-shaped - then the difference in diagonals should be no more than 12 mm. The same option, but for a window or door – 6 mm.

The general unevenness of the entire wall (pediment, cornice, plinth) should not exceed 12 mm.
Over time, the building may sag on one side and tilt. The inclination of a wall or the entire building is checked using a plumb line. Deviation from the vertical is allowed no more than 25 mm. If the slope of the entire building is greater than permissible, then it is already in a pre-emergency condition. If it is not eliminated, then further work on siding is simply pointless.

Preparatory work

After checking the geometry of the building, it is necessary to carry out a complex preparatory work. Platbands, drains, grates, etc. are removed. If you find cracks in the walls, near window and door openings, seal them either with polyurethane foam or simply with cement mortar. If you find: broken plaster, peeling paint, areas covered with mold - thoroughly clean such areas. Treat wooden walls with any antiseptic.

Tools and materials

Before starting work on siding your house, make sure you have a full set of available tools:

• Electric screwdriver and screwdriver;
• Hammer;
• Roulettes (laser tapes are easier and more convenient to work with);
• Construction level;
• Stairs.

How to cut boards

When cladding a building, part finishing panels used in its entirety. But in some places you will have to make extensions from the same material. Depending on what material will be used for cladding and siding, the tool for cutting the panels is also selected.

For vinyl

• Electric jigsaw with fine-toothed blade;
• Bulgarian;
• Sharp Cutter;
• Universal;
• Hacksaw for metal;
• Shoe knife.

Metal siding

• hacksaw for metal;
• metal scissors;
• electric circular saw with pobedit teeth.

Advice! The use of an angle grinder (grinder) is accompanied by heating of the metal siding at the cut site, damaging the protective top layer.

Material

If you want to do all the cladding work yourself, in order to purchase all required material You can simply contact a large hardware store. The seller simply needs to describe in detail the area of ​​the walls, the number of windows and doors, etc., and he will calculate and select the necessary set of materials for the job.

And in order to control the quality of the product, you need to know what characteristics the material for covering a house with siding must meet:

1. Same thickness throughout the entire panel.
2. Mandatory presence of special markings on inside panels. This marking carries all the necessary information on the material: color, batch number, production date. If there was not enough material for covering during the work process, you can always purchase more, focusing on this marking.
3. On quality panels There is a hurricane lock. It is made in the form of a bend on top of the panel and is located above the holes for fasteners.
4. A sure sign that a company cares about its image is the presence of additional elements and accessories included with the materials.
5. All products must be provided with certificates and warranties. The minimum warranty period for coverage must be 50 years.
6. Responsible sellers will definitely include instructions for installing siding with the purchased product.

Installation of sheathing

First, markings are made. Straight lines are drawn on the walls of the house so as to create a closed contour. To make the line horizontal, a horizontal level helps. At the corners of the house from the horizontal line, it is necessary to take measurements with a tape measure to identify minimum distance to the base. When the minimum distance is set at this level, the string for the contour is pulled. The starting bar will be mounted on it.

The next stage is the installation of elements of vertical metal guides from the installation horizon, starting from the corners. The distance between the vertical slats is 35-45 cm. Additional guides are made near windows and doors. The main condition is that they should not intersect anywhere.

This is necessary to ensure that air constantly circulates under the siding, preventing the formation of mold.
For walls made of brick and concrete, the guides are made from a special profile. For log walls slats with a cross section of 60x40 mm are used, treated with an antiseptic solution.

Waterproofing and insulation

If the sheathing is installed on wooden and aerated concrete walls, waterproofing must be installed.

Insulation of walls with mini-slabs is carried out at the request of the house owner, but a moisture-and-windproof membrane must be installed in any case. If there is no insulation, the film is attached to the wall of the house. If there is a layer of insulation, a layer of waterproofing is attached on top of it. Since a gap for ventilation between the insulation panels and the siding is required, a sheathing is constructed on top of the insulation layer.

Guides

Now that the insulation is in place and the sheathing is ready, it’s time to install siding accessories, such as:

• external and internal elements at the corners of the structure;
• strips for window and door openings;
• ebbs on the base of the building and windows.

The basement drainage is fixed at the intended level under the lower siding strip so that the upper edge runs along the line. The corner elements are attached rigidly to self-tapping screws at the very top of the outer hole. The subsequent screws are screwed into the middle of the slot in increments of 50 cm.

Advice! If the profile is not enough, it can be built up with another one, overlapping with the previous one with an overlap of five centimeters.

Window framing begins with the installation of the ebb. It protrudes beyond the window opening by 8-10 cm on both sides. The side window strips are installed on this protrusion. From below, the ebb is held in place by a j-profile. After installing the siding, the window design is completed by installing the trim.

The process of edging a doorway is almost identical to that of a window.

Installation of panels

The process of installing siding panels is somewhat similar to a LEGO set. Each element is connected to the other in turn. The first row from the bottom is attached to the first (starting) bar with light pressure until a click appears from below. At the top, through the slots, they are fastened with self-tapping screws in the center, so that the siding moves into them without visible effort. Fastening is carried out from the center to the edges of the building, in increments of 40 cm.

All subsequent panels are attached in the same way, rising from the foundation to the roof. The topmost row ends with a finishing strip.

Basic installation rules

1. Be sure to avoid rigid fastening of siding panels. It should be remembered that the material itself has the property of shrinking in the cold and expanding in the summer. Therefore, the screw is screwed into the center of the hole so that there is a gap of 1 mm between the screw head and the plate.
2. Maintain a 10 mm gap between the slats and the guides. This will prevent the siding from being damaged when it expands in hot weather.
3. Facing a house with siding can be done in any weather, but it should be taken into account that in frost the material becomes brittle and therefore requires more careful handling during installation.

Watch the video:

I have the following problem. The house is old and just needs to be insulated corner room, in winter it’s cold, damp and mold grows on the walls. There is not enough money to cover the entire house, so we decided to start from this place. This is an extension, and not made very well. Deviation from the plane is about 20 mm. So far we have decided that horizontal cladding will show all the shortcomings, and vertical cladding will hide it, but we doubt whether this is so.

The question arose before winter of covering the house with siding. Since I am not a builder myself, I encountered this for the first time. I re-read a bunch different advice, sites that tell you what and how to do. But I haven’t been able to find anyone who can put it all in concrete terms. I came across this article. I read and understood everything very carefully. What, how to do and what will be needed. As a result, I bought beige metal siding and got to work. Since I was on vacation, my friend and I did everything quickly. It’s good that the house is recently built, so all the corners and walls are even. There were practically no difficulties. The result is a satisfied wife and beautiful house. Thanks for the article, it turned out to be very useful.