Flowering sheflera at home. Schefflera: flower care at home, photos of species

1. Growing temperature: throughout the year, fairly cool conditions at a temperature of 16 - 18 degrees Celsius are suitable for shefflera.

2. Lighting: Brightly lit location with shade from direct sun.

3. Watering and air humidity: in spring and summer, dry the soil 2 - 3 centimeters deep before each subsequent watering; in winter, simply protect the earthen ball from drying out completely if the plant is in a cool place. Air humidity is quite high.

4. Trimming: Regular pruning and pinching of the tips of young shoots to form a compact and bushy plant.

5. Priming: a well-drained and nutritious substrate that easily allows moisture and air to pass to the roots of the flower.

6. Top dressing: from spring to autumn, feed monthly with mineral fertilizers for decorative foliage plants.

7. Reproduction: rooting of stem and leaf cuttings, rarely by seeds.

Botanical name: Schefflera.

Schefflera domestica - family. Araliaceae.

Homeland of the plant. Australia and Oceania.

What it looks like. The genus consists of approximately 900 evergreen shrubs, vines or low trees. Majority indoor plants It is a shrub with erect stems. With age stems become lignified and covered with light brown bark.

Complex leaves Schefflers have very long petioles and are arranged alternately on the stems. The leaves consist of oblong-oval segments arranged in a circle, the number of segments varies from 5 to 14. In green-leaved species, the leaves are solid green; variegated varieties are distinguished by the presence of white or yellow spots on the leaves.

In nature, shefflera is thrown away flower stalks, bearing many small, often reddish flowers. After flowering, the plant forms rounded berries.

Height. In its natural environment, the Schefflera flower takes on impressive sizes and can reach 14 m. in height. In indoor conditions, plants are pruned or low varieties are grown.

The size of plants at home is also affected by the volume of the pot - in cramped containers, plant development slows down.

2. Schefflera care at home

2.1.Reproduction, growing from a leaf

Schefflera breeds stem cuttings under cover of transparent plastic or glass using growth hormones.

Rooting is quite easy, sometimes even in a simple glass of water in spring and summer. It is worth adding a small amount of crushed charcoal to the water for rooting.

It is advisable to treat the bases of the cuttings with growth hormones and cover the young plants with a transparent plastic cap or a simple plastic bag to maintain uniform humidity.

2.2.Transplant

Young plants are planted annually into fresh soil and a larger pot, adults - transplant every 2 - 3 years.

For tuber bushes, the replanting of which is difficult, the top layer of the mixture is replaced with fresh soil annually.

The plant should be given a fairly spacious pot to increase the feeding area.

2.3.When it blooms

At home, flowering occurs very rarely. In nature, plants bloom during the summer months.

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2.4.How to care for shefflera, pruning

The plant is very popular in culture due to its spectacular appearance and ease of cultivation.

Wipe occasionally leaves plants with a damp sponge to remove dust.

Trim the Schefflera in the fall to maintain a compact shape. The plant responds to pruning by the appearance of a large number of side shoots, which allows it to form a thick and lush crown.

Pinch apical buds young plants to form a dense crown.

Provide long stems support for growth.

Periodically turn the pot with shefflera different sides to the light source so that the plant develops symmetrically.

2.5.Diseases and pests

• Yellowing and abscission leaves may be caused by stagnation of moisture at the roots.
• With periodic flooding, the plant becomes sluggish and this behavior encourages novice gardeners to water, which further aggravates the situation.Unfortunately, this situation often leads to the death of the sheffler.
• When there is a lack of light, plants become elongated.
• As the plant ages, it may lose lower leaves and expose the stems - such plants should be subjected to radical anti-aging pruning.
• Lack of moisture causes the plant drop leaves.
• The leaves are getting smaller and fade when lacking nutrients.
• If there are cold drafts in the room or placed near heating devices, plants may lose leaves.

Harmful insects can attack the flower mealybugs, aphids and reds spider mites ki, scale insect.

Insects - pests

Insect name	Signs of infection	Control measures
Mealybug	The surface of the leaves and shoots is covered with a fluffy, cotton-like white coating. Plants lag behind in development	Folk remedies: spraying with soap and alcohol solution. Infusions of tobacco, garlic, cyclamen tubers, alcohol treatments, and pharmacy tincture of calendula have worked well. Chemicals : green soap solution, Actellik, Fitoverm.
Spider mite	Inconspicuous cobwebs on the leaves, yellowing and falling leaves with extensive damage. The surface of the leaf plates becomes dead and covered with small cracks. Plant development slows down.	Traditional methods. Plants can be washed in the shower and left in the bathroom in a humid atmosphere for half an hour. Irradiation ultraviolet lamp every week for 2 minutes. Chemicals based on pyrethrum, sulfur powders, Fitoverm, Actellik.
Aphid	Sticky droplets appear on the leaf blades, the leaf blades curl and become deformed, tender buds and young leaves wither. Colonies of insects can be seen on the tips of shoots, buds or the underside of leaf blades. The flowers of plants affected by aphids may become deformed.	Traditional methods: infusion of nettle, decoction of rhubarb leaves, wormwood, soap solution, infusion of tobacco and dandelion, onion, marigold, yarrow, tansy, dusting with virgin ash. Chemicals: Sulfur powders, treatment of green mass with green potassium soap without getting into the ground, Decis, Actellik, Fitoverm.
Scale insect and false scale insect	Sticky droplets on the leaves, small yellow spots on the surface of the leaf blades. When scale insects become widespread, they cause leaves to dry out and fall off. Flowers slow down their development	Folk methods of struggle. Spraying with soap and alcohol solution. Scale insect larvae do not like garlic infusion; they also use pyrethrum-based products. Chemicals. Fitoverm, Aktellik, Fufanon.

2.6.Soil

Loose nutrient soil with good drainage.

A mixture will do garden soil with leaf humus, peat, with the addition of a small amount of coarse river sand and crushed charcoal.

2.7.Watering

The frequency of watering will depend on the ambient temperature.

When kept in a room with a temperature above 20° C, maintain the soil evenly moist, but not swampy. At a temperature of about 16 ° C - dry the top layer of soil with a thickness of about 3 cm. between waterings.

A few minutes after watering, excess moisture from the pan should be drained.

2.8.Fertilizers for shefflera

In spring and summer feed liquid fertilizers monthly. In autumn and winter, plants are given rest and feeding is stopped.

2.9.Lighting

A brightly lit area with plenty of reflected sunlight, but without access to direct rays.

Plants also develop well in partial shade, but they can react to a lack of light by yellowing and dropping leaves.

2.10.Temperature

She prefers Schefflera at home cool conditions and does not like extreme heat.

Throughout the year, it is advisable to keep plants at a temperature 16 - 18°C. At higher room temperatures, the frequency of watering and air humidity should be increased.

During the winter months Not expose plants to temperature below 10°C.

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2.11.Spraying

Increase humidity with tray with wet pebbles or room humidifier , and also surrounding the pot with a layer wet sphagnum moss.

Spray the plant can be watered in the morning room temperature.

Schefflera can be kept indoors without additional humidification, but will look healthier with increased air humidity.

2.12.Purpose

Suitable for landscaping spacious and bright rooms.

2.13.
Note

All above-ground parts of the plant poisonous– be careful when handling schefflera and keep children and pets away from the plant.

This species will grow indoors with proper care within many years.

2.14.Hydroponics

Grows well in hydroponics.

3.Varieties:

3.1.Schefflera "Gerda" - Schefflera arboricola "Gerda"

A beautiful variety of tree-like schefflera with variegated, glossy leaves, colored in the center of the leaf blade in greenish, yellow or White color, and along the edges of the leaves - in a green tint. The plant can reach a height of 2.5 - 3 m, so it needs periodic corrective pruning.

3.2.Schefflera arboricola "Janine"

A low tree-like variegated Schefflera, forming a very lush bush. The leaves are divided into 5 - 7 glossy, oblong-oval, entire-edged segments - fingers, colored in shades of green, white or yellowish. Basic distinctive feature This variety is that many segments have a solid white, greenish or yellow color.

3.3.Schefflera "Nora"

An aerial variety of tree-like shefflera, characterized by its compact size. The leaves are uniform - green, glossy, divided into 5 - 7 very thin, oval fingers. Sometimes on sale you can find plants of this variety with beautifully braided trunks.

3.4. Schefflera "Melanie" - Schefflera "Melanie"

A variegated variant of the tree-like Schefflera, about 50 cm high, with very attractive compound, palmate leaves. The main shade of the leaves is light green or yellowish; standard green may be present only on some fingers or along the edges of the leaf blades in the form of a thin strip.

3.5.Schefflera elegantissima "Bianca"

Schefflera graceful is also called dizygotheca. A valuable ornamental foliage plant with tall, erect, often branched shoots at the base and complex leaves divided into “fingers.” This variety has very long fingers, and the edges of the leaf blades have large teeth. The leaves are dark green with a thin white border along the edges. The central vein is also highlighted in a light shade. Overall, the plant has a delicate, airy appearance.

3.6. Schefflera "Louisiana" - Schefflera "Louisiana"

Variety of tree-like schefflera. The plants are tall - they can reach a height of 70 to 150 cm. The stems are erect, branching abundantly, become woody with age and are covered with light brown bark. The leaves are compound, palmate, green, glossy. The fingers are oblong-lanceolate, thin, giving the entire appearance of the plant an openwork appearance.

3.7.Schefflera actinophylla

In the natural environment, this species often grows as an epiphyte on other trees, although it reaches impressive sizes - up to 12 m in height. It has erect, branched shoots that become woody with age and become covered with smooth greenish-brown bark. The leaves are compound - consist of 7 - 16 fingers, with drooping long, dark green, glossy fingers, reaching a diameter of 60 cm. Often the edges of the leaf blades are slightly corrugated. In nature, this species has the most gorgeous flowering - large inflorescences with many small pinkish flowers are formed at the tops of the shoots.

3.8. Schefflera "Amate" - Schefflera "Amate"

A variety of palmate schefflera, a tall plant, easily reaching 2 m in height even in indoor conditions. The leaves are compound, consisting of dark green, glossy, relatively wide fingers. It differs in that even mature plants do not expose the lower part of the trunk, in addition, leaf fall does not occur even in low light conditions.

3.9.Schefflera “Gold Capella” - Schefflera “Gold Capella”

A variegated version of the tree-like schefflera. Evergreens perennials up to 3 m high with dark green palmate leaves. The stems are thick, erect, and become covered with smooth greenish bark with age. Plants with intertwined trunks are often found on sale. A striking varietal feature is the presence of yellow spots of various shapes and sizes on the leaves of plants.

Schefflera (schefflera) is becoming increasingly popular among amateur flower growers, the care of which has proven to be quite affordable for many. This plant appeared on home windowsills relatively recently, but has already gained great popularity. Schefflera is an ornamental deciduous plant; it is grown for its beautiful variegated crown. The tree looks great both as an independent crop and as part of flower arrangements. In addition, the exotic flower has already acquired some signs, some of which are indeed true.

Signs associated with the plant

For example, it is believed that sheflera is a relaxer plant. In fact, planted in a house, it has a beneficial effect on the microclimate, attracting and absorbing negative energy. Experts say that this happens due to the substances that the flower contains. Those who are keen on growing this tree jokingly even affectionately call it “the good vampire.” It is believed that it normalizes the emotional background in the house and promotes healthy, sound sleep. Therefore, it is recommended to place it in the bedroom. In addition, it is believed that the tree, along with the Crassula ( money tree), can attract wealth to the house. Another advantage of sheflera is that it effectively saturates the air around it with oxygen.

Opponents argue that a sheflera should not be kept in the house, as it predicts misfortune. Allegedly, by shedding its leaves, the tree signals impending financial losses. And if the leaves curl into a tube or darken, quarrels in the family or with the authorities cannot be avoided. However, these superstitions are a purely individual matter, and in modern floriculture there are no contraindications for not paying attention to this very decorative plant.

Schefflera - tropical foreigner

Schefflera received its luxurious, memorable name in honor of the famous German botanist Scheffler. Belongs to the Araliaceae family, whose representatives number more than 200 species and in their natural conditions grow to a height of more than 10 m. This occurs exotic plant in the tropics South-East Asia, Australia, on the islands Pacific Ocean. IN indoor floriculture slightly more than 10 species are represented.

Outwardly, the sheflera resembles an umbrella, which is why it is popularly called an umbrella tree. At home it can reach up to 2.5 m in height. The shape and color of the palmate leaves make the plant especially decorative. In shape, each leaf resembles a palm with splayed fingers with 4-12 lobes. Coloring ranges from rich monotonous green to variegated, with white, yellow, golden and cream spots and stains. The leathery leaves, similar to the spokes of an exotic umbrella, grow on a strong petiole and point upward.

The shefflera's trunk is thin and therefore requires constant support. However, flower growers have found a way out of the situation - they plant several specimens in one pot at once. As soon as they grow up, they carefully intertwine the trunks together. In this way, the cheflera supports itself, and the foliage of several adjacent specimens becomes even denser and more decorative. The umbrella tree cannot boast of beautiful flowers. They are white, small, inconspicuous, collected in a panicle. However, the plant rarely blooms in indoor conditions. Although plant growers do not have such a goal - to make sheflera bloom - after all, they grow it precisely for its exotic foliage. The culture is propagated mainly by stem cuttings.

The most common type of umbrella tree at home is Schefflera arboricola. It has variegated golden or white leaves, but green forms are also known. In indoor conditions you can find Schefflera Louisiana - a tree up to 1.5 m high, which can be successfully grown hydroponically. This type is most often used to decorate winter gardens, stairwells, lobbies with insufficient light.

Despite some species differences, caring for cheflera at home is the same and is not particularly difficult.

Plant care

Before you bring an umbrella tree into your home, you need to create a certain microclimate for it. Perhaps this is the only factor to which the cheflera is especially demanding.

This flower is very light-loving, and since the variegated leaves become monotonous green in shaded places, you need to choose a bright place for the sheflera, but without direct sunlight. The most unsuitable is the north window; on the rest, the umbrella tree will feel quite good. In the summer, sheflera can be taken out to open air, placing the pot in light partial shade.

Very important and temperature regime, in which this indoor plant will live. Despite the fact that its origin is tropical forests, the umbrella tree does not tolerate heat very well. Often this is what leads to the dropping of leaves, and in especially severe cases, to the death of the tree. The best temperature for growing sheflera is +17…+22˚С. In winter, the temperature can be reduced to +16...+18˚С. However, the lower, critical limit is 12˚С. Variegated forms overwinter well only at 18˚C. The cold will inevitably lead to a loss of decorativeness.

For the same reasons, the sheflera should not be placed near heating appliances. Excessive heat and dry air will lead to unfavorable consequences for the flower.

The humidity in the room where the culture is kept should be above average. It is best to place the pot with the tree on a wide tray, sprinkle expanded clay and pebbles around it, spread moss and water them constantly. Various water procedures are very beneficial for the foliage of the tree - warm showers, spraying and wiping with a damp sponge. The higher the humidity, the better the flower will feel and the more beautiful its crown will be.

The plant does not have any special requirements for watering; it is enough to regularly and moderately moisten the soil in the pot. Settled water at room temperature is best suited for this. It is best to avoid drying out the earthen ball, but excessive watering can lead to rotting of the roots. In winter, moisture should be reduced, but the soil should not be allowed to dry out completely.

For full development, the chefler should be fed periodically. During the growing season (from March to September), every 10 days you need to water the plant with complex mineral fertilizer for decorative foliage plants. The plant will be very grateful if you periodically add finely crushed eggshells to the pot. For 1 pot, 1 tbsp is enough. l. powder. In winter, the tree is in a state of relative dormancy, so you should not feed it.

To make the plant look more impressive, many gardeners form a tree by periodically trimming the crown. Thanks to this, you can grow both a full-fledged tree and a bush form. However, when starting creativity, you need to remember that this is a long process, since you need to let the flower get used to the new state. Pruning can only be done in March, before the active growing season begins.

These are the basic rules on how to care for cheflera at home

Sheflera transplant

One of the advantages of growing an umbrella tree is that it does not need to be replanted too often. The root system of this tree does not grow rapidly, so it is enough to carry out this procedure once every 3-4 years. There is an opinion that young plants need to be replanted once every 2 years. However, every owner exotic flower must decide for himself how often this should be done specifically for his instance.

Sheflera transplantation at home occurs either in the spring, after a period of relative dormancy, or in the fall, at the end of the growing season.

We transplant the tree into a stable pot 5-6 cm larger in diameter. Sheflera roots are prone to rotting, so it is important to provide good drainage. To do this, almost 1/4 of it needs to be filled with expanded clay, broken ceramic shards, brick fragments, and foam chips. It is better to purchase special soil; palm soil is very suitable. However, you can compose it yourself: for 2 parts of turf soil you need to take 1 part of humus and leaf soil, add 1 part of coarse sand.

Before replanting the tree, the mixture must be mixed well and the pot filled so as to place the plant taken out of the old pot together with a lump of earth in the center. Add fresh soil to the sides and top and compact it slightly. After transplanting, water the plant generously, spray it and place it in its usual place.

Reproduction of shefleras

Reproduction of sheflera at home is quite labor-intensive. The whole process requires patience and attention. However, if you follow all the rules, the procedure may well be feasible for any gardener.

This plant is propagated by seeds, air layering and stem cuttings. The first option is practically inaccessible for amateur gardeners, since the indoor cheflera does not bloom. Basically, this method is suitable for industrial cultivation of plants.

The most accessible propagation for us is the vegetative method, namely, using stem cuttings. Follows with special attention pay attention to the choice of material, because sometimes the result depends on how high-quality and viable the cuttings turn out to be.

Cuttings should be cut with a sharp knife from the tops of the side shoots of well-developed mother plants. They should be semi-lignified, each with at least 2 internodes. The simplest thing is to place the resulting cuttings in plain water and wait for the roots to appear. Reproduction in this way does not require much effort, but may take some time. long time.

A faster way is to treat the cuttings with a suitable growth stimulant (this can be Kornevin, Heteroauxin or simple aloe juice) for 12 hours and root them in nutritious soil in a specially prepared greenhouse. The most important thing is to support constant temperature in the container - +20...+22˚С. To do this, it is best to cover the container with film or glass and place it on a room radiator. The entire rooting process takes 1.5-2 months.

The main difficulty is that the seedlings need to be constantly monitored, periodically ventilated, watered and sprayed. As soon as the plant shows signs of rooting and begins to grow, the film or glass can be removed and the seedlings placed in a bright place. However, moving them to permanent place It's too early to live. Only after 2-3 months are young cheflers with well-developed roots transplanted into a permanent pot.

It should be remembered that if you need to form a strong tree, you need to plant several trunks in 1 pot, and intertwine the trunks with each other as they grow. It is clear that propagation of sheflera is a rather lengthy process, but the result - a beautiful tree with exotic leaves and unique coloring - is worth it.

Difficulties in growing sheflera

All negative processes occurring with the umbrella tree occur primarily due to improper care. Loss of variegated color, shedding of leaves, rotting of roots, and the appearance of pests can be caused by: lack of light, too cold or too hot room, insufficient or excessive watering. But all these factors are easy to eliminate. It will be especially unfortunate to lose a plant, having learned from your own experience how difficult its propagation is.

By providing a microclimate suitable for sheflera, you can become the owner of a well-developed exotic tree.

Oct 15 2018

Schefflera - home care

Schefflera is a beautiful ornamental indoor plant that often decorates offices, shops and apartments. Schefflera is different unusual leaves and ease of care at home. Among the plant species there are variegated varieties, with different shapes and colors of leaves.

Schefflera (or Schefflera) is native to many countries with tropical climates. In nature, it grows in the form of a tree or shrub. There are species that reach a height of forty meters. These types are not suitable for indoor breeding. Many specimens in nature have more modest sizes, reaching two meters. In indoor conditions, the plant can reach one and a half meters. Therefore, the plant can be more often found in spacious halls, offices, winter gardens. If space allows, then Schefflera can be successfully grown in an apartment, you just need to take into account its rapid growth.

It belongs to the Araliaceae family, and about 400 species grow in nature. The plant got its name from the name of the famous botanist Jacob Christian Scheffler from Germany. It is characterized by umbrella-shaped leaves, consisting of several dissected lobes. The number of lobes on a leaf ranges from 4 to 12, depending on the variety. The leaves are located on long petioles.

In nature, the plant blooms with inconspicuous small white flowers collected in an umbrella. It is not possible to achieve schefflera flowering indoors, but this does not upset flower growers. Because decorative leaves more than compensate for the lack of flowers.

Types and varieties

The following types are used in indoor floriculture:

• eight leaf;
• radiate;
• tree-like;
• palmate.

Based on these species, breeders have developed new varieties of shefflera, which we will consider a little below.

Eight leaf

The plant got its name from the number of leaf blades, which ranges from eight to twelve. The leaves are lanceolate, pointed at the apex. Their length reaches 30-40 centimeters, and their width is about ten. Leathery leaves have several shades Green colour, and the veins on them are light cream in color.

Radifolia

Due to the shape of the leaf plate, it is also called star-leaved. You can recognize it by the number of leaves extending from the red-brown petiole. The sixteen leaves are ovoid at first. As the plant grows, they become longer, but remain blunt at the ends. Their length is fifteen centimeters and their width is five. The bright green leaves have a shiny leathery surface and light veins. This species is the most popular among gardeners. It is necessary to note the rapid growth of Schefflera radiata. Based on this species, varieties with yellow-green and golden-yellow leaf blades have been bred.

Tree-like

The plant is a tree that grows up to 1.2 m, with shoots extending from a straight trunk. This species is native to Southeast Asia. The number of leaves located on long petioles ranges from seven to sixteen. The leaves, which are up to fifteen centimeters long, reach eight centimeters in width. The size and shade of the leaves may vary depending on the variety.

Palmate

The homeland of palmate schefflera is New Zealand. In its homeland, the tree grows up to eight meters and resembles a palm tree. Eight ellipsoid-shaped leaves are on long petioles reaching twenty centimeters. The length of the leaves ranges from fifteen to thirty centimeters. It differs from the radiate species in its compactness.

Janine

Schefflera Janine stands out for its variegated foliage. Light dots and streaks are scattered on the dark green background of the leaves. This variety is distinguished by the fact that it tolerates shading well and does not lose its variegated color.

Nora

The Nora variety is variegated. Narrow green leaves are covered with yellow specks. The edge of the leaves is framed with teeth. Schefflera Nora is distinguished by its unpretentiousness and lush crown.

Gold Capella

The variety was bred on the basis of the tree-like Schefflera. The tree has a lush crown with bright green leaves covered with golden spots.

Gerda

Variety Gerda prefers diffused light to moisture and fertile soil. The leaves of the plant are variegated, yellow-green in color. The height of the plant depends on the conditions of detention, and varies from 0.5 to 2.5 meters.

Luzeana

The Luzeana variety is distinguished by openwork leaves with yellow-green streaks. Shiny leathery plates add additional decorativeness.

Bianca

Plants of the Bianchi variety have short leaves, the length of which does not exceed eight centimeters. The leaf blade has denticles along the edge, covered with a white border. Beige spots are visible at the base of the leaves. The variety is decorative due to the shape and color of the leaves.

Custer

This variety, bred by breeders, is more suitable than others for growing in our apartments. The plant does not grow more than 120 centimeters. Its leathery, dark green leaves are medium in size.

Rules for caring for shefflera at home

Schefflera is unpretentious when grown indoors. But there are simple rules contents that will ensure the beauty and long life of the plant.

Lighting

Since the cheflera needs diffused light, best place The apartment will have eastern and western window sills. On northern windows you can place Schefflera species with single-colored green leaves. In summer, it is recommended to take the pot with the plant to the balcony or loggia, but be sure to shade it from direct sunlight and protect it from drafts. In autumn and winter, the flower needs additional artificial lighting, especially when the room temperature is above eighteen degrees.

Temperature

Although Schefflera comes from the tropics, it does not like high temperatures. In summer, the ideal temperature for her would be twenty degrees Celsius. If the weather is very hot, the flower may shed its leaves.

In winter, the optimal temperature is in the range from fourteen to eighteen degrees. If the plant remains in a room with central heating in winter, then it is necessary to protect it from dry warm air radiators.

How to water

Schefflera prefers moist soil without drying out or waterlogging. Therefore, regular watering should be given special attention. In summer, watering is carried out approximately once every two days, after the top layer of soil has dried. But at the same time, you need to water moderately to prevent stagnation of water in the soil. Stagnation of water leads to rotting of the roots. For irrigation, use only settled water at room temperature so that the temperature of the soil in the pot is not lower than the air temperature.

Schefflera prefers high humidity ambient air. You can place the pot with the plant on wet expanded clay. Spraying is carried out every two days in the summer. Water for spraying should also be settled and warm. When kept in a room in winter, they also continue to spray or wipe the leaves with a damp sponge.

Top dressing

Regular, timely feeding promotes the growth and health of sheflera. Liquid complex fertilizers for decorative deciduous indoor plants are suitable for it. From spring to late autumn, sheflera is fed twice a month. You can feed with organic and mineral fertilizers, alternating them.

The soil

Schefflera prefers light, nutritious, slightly acidic soil. For self-cooking you need to take the following components:

• leaf soil (30%);
• turf land (40%);
• humus (20%);
• sand (10%).

Can be cooked soil mixture from turf soil, humus and sand, taken in a ratio of 2:1:1. But it’s still easier to buy a ready-made substrate at a flower shop. For cheflera, a mixture for growing ficus and palm trees is suitable.

Transplant and pot

Schefflera is replanted in the first half of spring. Young seedlings are planted several in one pot. Choose a pot for shefflera that is stable and quite deep, so that the drainage layer is two to three centimeters. Expanded clay and crushed brick are used for drainage.

When transplanting young plant, which is carried out after two years, a little earthen mixture is poured onto the drainage layer. Lightly shake off the soil from the roots, transfer the flower to a new pot and sprinkle the roots with soil. The soil is compacted and watered abundantly.

The next time you replant, each new pot should be four to five centimeters wider than the previous one. Large plants are replanted using the transshipment method, without shaking off the soil from the roots. The older the flower, the less frequently it is replanted. This is done when the roots have completely filled the pot.

Shefflera crown formation

A special feature of shefflera is its negative reaction to pruning. Cutting off a large number of shoots greatly weakens the plant, and it begins to hurt. Therefore, gentle pruning can be carried out only when necessary.

A young, rapidly growing plant is pruned to form side shoots. Trim the top shoot into four internodes. The cut is made with a sharp pruner or knife, but not with scissors. Sprinkle the cut area activated carbon. In a year or two you can shorten side shoots to give the bush a spherical shape.

The best way to get a lush bush is to plant several cuttings in one pot. Cuttings after pruning are used for rooting and obtaining new young plants.

Reproduction of Schefflera

Schefflera reproduces at home in several ways:

• cuttings;
• seeds;
• air layering.

Propagation by cuttings

For propagation, shoots cut off during pruning are used, or shoots are cut in the spring, choosing branches with partially woody stems. Cut with a sharp knife or pruning shears. The cut is treated with Kornevin or another drug that stimulates root formation. The cuttings are planted in soil consisting of peat and sand in equal parts. Before rooting, cover the top with a transparent bag and place it in a place with a temperature of 22 degrees. The film is periodically removed for ventilation, and finally removed after rooting. After the roots have formed, the temperature is lowered to eighteen degrees. When the roots fill the small containers in which the cuttings were planted, you can transplant the Schefflera into a larger pot with soil for adult plants.

Propagation by seeds

Start sowing seeds in mid-winter. The soil can be prepared in two ways. The first way is to mix sand and peat in equal parts. The second way is to take turf, leaf soil and sand in a ratio of 1:1:1. The mixture is pre-disinfected by heating in the oven for half an hour. The cooled soil is poured into the seedling boxes. A layer of drainage must be poured onto the bottom of the container.

Schefflera seeds are first soaked in water for two to three hours with the addition of Epin or Zircon. Then the seeds are planted, deepening them by five centimeters. The soil is moistened with a spray bottle and the container is covered with film. The boxes are placed in a warm place with a temperature of 22-24 degrees. Periodically remove the film for ventilation and spraying. Having a mini-greenhouse with bottom heating will speed up seed germination.

After the first leaves appear, the seedlings are picked and transplanted into separate pots, lowering the temperature to 20 degrees. After three months, the sprouts are transplanted into a larger pot, planting several pieces per pot. Then the pot is placed in a room with a temperature of 14-16 degrees.

Reproduction by air layering

A new plant can be obtained using air layering. This method is used for adult flowers whose trunk has become woody. In early spring, before the growing season begins, a small incision is made on the trunk. It is covered with sphagnum moss soaked in a nutrient solution, which is prepared by dissolving one gram of complex mineral fertilizer in a liter of water. The trunk with moss is wrapped with film. Always ensure that the moss is kept moist. If there is no moss, then you can use a bandage, moisten it and wrap it with film on top.

The appearance of roots is expected after two to three months. And after another three months, the branch with new roots is cut off and planted in a new pot. The cut site is left covered and continued to be moistened until new shoots appear. This is how the adult shefflera will be renewed.

Schefflera diseases

Many people wonder what to do if the leaves of the sheflera fall off? The plant, despite its unpretentiousness, reacts negatively to high and low temperatures, sudden temperature changes, waterlogging and drafts, and lack of light. The reaction to many external stimuli is the same in a tropical flower - the shefflera sheds its leaves. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully analyze the conditions of detention in order to determine and eliminate the cause of leaf fall. When conditions improve, the plant stops shedding leaves, and over time its decorative appearance will be restored.

It is more difficult to cope with root rot, which occurs with frequent waterlogging and keeping at low temperatures. Rot is manifested not only by the withering and falling of leaves, but also by the appearance of black spots on them. If such symptoms of the disease occur, remove the plant from the pot and check the condition of the roots. Damaged, diseased roots are removed. Then the root system is immersed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for twenty minutes for disinfection, and then planted in a new pot and new soil. The old pot must be disinfected before reuse.

• Excessive watering can be manifested by the appearance of small bubbles on the underside of the leaf blade. This disease is called dropsy.
• Direct sunlight can cause yellow spots to appear on the leaves. With a lack of light, the leaves turn pale, especially variegated varieties lose their decorative effect.
• The tips of the leaves turn brown and dry out if there is insufficient watering or low ambient humidity.

Pests

Schefflera is attacked by pests of indoor plants such as spider mites, thrips and scale insects. Spider mites are visible by white plaque on leaves and internodes, similar to small cobwebs. The scale leaves sticky coating, and the insects themselves can be seen in the form of small brown tubercles on the leaves. Thrips can be identified by black dots on back side leaf plate.

Spider mites Thrips Scale insects

If the number of pests is small, you can use traditional methods:

• wash the leaves with soapy water;
• soak a cotton swab in alcohol and wipe the leaves where insects are found.

If these methods do not lead to the destruction of pests, then it is necessary to treat the plants with insecticides such as Aktara. After a week and a half, the treatment should be repeated.

Conclusion

Scheffler at easy care And making the right choice where it is kept will delight you for many years with its unusual leaves, while simultaneously purifying the indoor air from harmful substances.

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Young plants once a year, adults - once every 2-3 years. In summer - 20-22 degrees during the day and 16-18 at night. In winter - 14-16. Summer - every 3 days. In winter - once a week. Twice a day, with insufficient air humidity. East and west windows. Variegated varieties on southern windows.

Lighting

The plant is light-loving. However, direct rays can cause burns on the leaves.

Therefore, diffused bright light is ideal. Windows facing west or east are ideal. Varieties with green leaves can do well in partial shade on a north-facing site.

Variegated Schefflera varieties are more demanding on lighting, since the color saturation of their leaves depends on the amount of light. Therefore, it is better to place them on southern windows, creating light shading.

You can read more about the varieties and placement of shefflera.

Despite the fact that the plant is tropical, it does not tolerate extreme heat. The optimal temperature in summer is 20-22 degrees during the day and 16-18 at night. At higher temperatures it may shed its leaves. On warm days, the flower can be taken outside into the shade.

In winter, shefflera tolerates temperatures not lower than +12.

Otherwise, he may die. The ideal temperature would be 14-16 degrees. You cannot place it in a draft or near an open window. It is also better to keep the plant away from heating appliances.

IN summer heat it is necessary to provide the plant with abundant watering and high humidity air. Under these conditions, sheflera is able to withstand a temperature increase of up to 30ºC and higher, if it is not exposed to direct sunlight during the day.

In winter, a decrease in air temperature is not necessary. This is done to reduce the growth rate of cheflera in insufficient winter light. But if you use additional lighting, the plant overwinters well at room temperature 20-22ºС.

Watering

Schefflera is moisture-loving, but excessive water intake can be destructive and cause rotting of the roots.

In summer you can water every 3 days. The best way to check a plant's need for water is to touch the soil with your finger. If the ground is a little dry - sure sign that watering is necessary.

In winter, when metabolic processes slow down, watering is also carried out less frequently.– approximately once a week. You can't water the plant cold water, the best option is water at room temperature that has been standing for 24 hours.

The soil

Schefflera prefers fertile soil.

You can use store-bought soil. In this case, you need to choose a substrate for palm trees.

It is also possible to prepare the mixture yourself. Need to mix sod land, humus, sand and leaf soil in a ratio of 4:2:1:3.

An important condition for shefflera is good drainage.. To do this, you need to put expanded clay at the bottom of the pot. The size of the pot is selected according to the size of the root system - it should fit freely in it, but there should be little free space.

Fertilizer

Plant feeding is carried out once every 10-14 days in spring. summer period. As a top dressing it is better to alternate mineral fertilizers organic.

Preference is given to liquid fertilizers for decorative deciduous plants. During the dormant period (from October to March), fertilizing should be reduced to once every 2 months, or eliminated altogether.

We should not forget that fertilizers should only be applied to moist soil.

Watering moist soil will ensure optimal nutrient absorption and protect the root system from damage from too much fertilizer.

Schefflera is fed as follows. First, fertilizers are diluted with water to the concentration indicated on the package. Then the plant is watered plain water and leave for 4-5 hours so that the soil is well saturated with moisture. And only after this the chefler is once again watered with the prepared fertilizer solution.

Humidity

It is especially important to ensure wet air if the flower overwinters at high room temperatures (more than 18 degrees). If there is insufficient air humidity, the plant may shed its leaves, and the likelihood of pests, such as spider mites, increases.

You can place a pot of shefflera in a tray filled with pebbles. In this case, watering is carried out in a tray, and the plant itself absorbs it with its roots. required amount moisture.

When there is insufficient moisture, Schefflera sheds its leaves.

Schefflera prefers high air humidity. Accordingly, it is recommended to spray with water at room temperature from a spray bottle twice a day.

You can also wipe the leaves with a damp cloth: this will moisten them and remove dust.

Trimming / Support / Garter

Schefflera lends itself well.

Height can be adjusted by trimming the top. The plant will send out side shoots, which will subsequently create a spherical shape.

You can give it the shape of a bush by planting several cuttings nearby. Or to grow a tree - cut off the lower side leaves. In this case, accuracy is important to avoid loss of decorativeness.

Shefflers carry out formative pruning in early spring.. It is necessary to complete this procedure before active growth begins, so as not to weaken it and damage the growing shoots.

When growing a bush, 3-4 cuttings are planted in one container. Formation begins when they grow 5-6 internodes in length. After this, in the spring their tops are pinched. This will cause the young plants to branch. Usually, after pinching, 2-3 new shoots grow on each cutting, which next year also shortened to get a lush bush.

At standard formation remove the lower shoots to a height of 20 cm from the ground, and pinch the top. In the future, every spring it is necessary to trim the growing shoots in accordance with the desired crown shape.

Diseases

Let's look at how to care for shefflera at home when the flower is sick.

The main pests that attack Schefflera are thrips, mealybugs, scale insects and spider mites. The cause of the problem may be low air humidity or planting the plant in pest-infested soil.

If there are a small number of pests, the flower can be washed with warm soapy water..

In case of serious infestation, the use of insecticides – chemical or biological preparations to control pests – will be required. Actellik or karbofos (8 drops per 0.5 liters of water) will do.

You can read more about plant diseases.

Problems

• If Schefflera sheds its leaves, the cause may be too high or low temperature indoors, or excessive watering;
• If the color of the leaves fades, the problem is a lack of light; light spots appear - there is too much light;
• Roots rot - too frequent watering;
• The tips of the leaves dry out and turn brown - low air humidity or insufficient watering.
• If a plant's leaves lose their elasticity and then fall off, this is due to a very rapid increase in air temperature.
• Another reason for the wilting of sheflera leaves is insufficient feeding in the summer or irregular replanting.
• A deficiency of nutrients in the soil can lead to stunted growth. If the plant has not grown new leaves for a long time, it needs to be fed.
• A sharp drop in temperature to 10ºC can lead not only to massive leaf fall, but also to the death of shoots, as well as the death of the plant.

Reproduction

Let's look at how Schefflera reproduces at home.

Schefflera can be propagated by cuttings or seeds.

In the first case, it is necessary to cut off the shoot and leave at least 2-3 leaves on it, treat it with a growth stimulator (heteroauxin, root). Planting is done in sand, the pot is covered with polyethylene.

The seeds are sown to a depth of 5 mm, the pot is covered with glass and placed in a warm place. Shoots appear in 2-3 weeks.

Seed propagation in indoor culture is used extremely rarely due to the difficulty of purchasing seed and high labor intensity.

When grown in an apartment, Schefflera usually does not bloom, so it is not possible to get seeds from your plant. When using purchased material, there is no confidence in its quality.

Specimens grown from seeds often do not have the varietal characteristics of the mother plant.

In apartment conditions, it is convenient for the chef to propagate by air layering. To obtain a layer, the shoot is cut to half its thickness, and a match is inserted into the cut.

After this, the cut area is wrapped with moistened sphagnum moss, and the moss is covered with polyethylene on top and tied with thread above and below the cut.

If the moss is kept moist, the shoot will soon take root. As soon as they become visible, the cuttings can be separated from the adult plant and planted in a pot of soil.

Before propagating Schefflera, you need to prepare the pot and soil in advance.

Transfer

Transplant – necessary procedure Sheflera care. Young plants whose root system grows quickly are transplanted into new soil annually. Adult specimens whose growth rate is decreasing need to be replanted every 2 or 3 years. Schefflera is replanted in the spring in mid or late April.

Sheflera tolerates transplantation well. But despite this, this procedure must be carried out very carefully. It is better to replant the plant by transshipment in order to injure the root system as little as possible.

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The pot for the cheflera is chosen to be 2-2.5 cm wider than the previous one. It should not be very high, optimally if its height is equal to the diameter. This plant does best in clay pots that allow oxygen to reach the roots. It grows much worse in plastic.

When transplanting, a drainage layer is placed at the bottom of the new pot.. The plant is removed along with a lump of earth from the old pot and placed in the center of the new one. Fresh soil is added to the sides.

The plant should not be deeply buried during transplantation. It should be at the same depth as before this procedure.

To ensure that adult plants that are rarely replanted do not suffer from a lack of nutrients in the soil, it is recommended to annually replace the top layer of soil mixture in the pot with a new fertile one.

In the gallery you will see photos of sheffleras in the process of care at home and in the natural environment:

In the interior of official institutions - hospitals, reception rooms, offices - you can often see a plant with original name"umbrella tree" Shefflera, whose care is kept to a minimum, is also loved by owners of indoor gardens. A tree or bush with a lush crown formed by large leaves that look like palms with spread fingers is equally decorative in winter and summer. When grown indoors, a blooming schefflera is a rarity, but it is beautiful even without buds, the attractiveness of which is questionable for many: when open, they resemble tentacles.

Types and varieties

The culture leads its way to the home garden from the tropical rainforests of the Australian continent, Southeast Asia and the Pacific Islands. Its closest relatives are representatives of the Araliaceae family: ivy, eleutherococcus, ginseng. Wild species of Schefflera, of which there are about 200 known, are diverse. They are distinguished from each other by the size, shape, length and color of the leaves. Among them there are vines, shrubs, and huge (up to 20 m tall) trees. About 10 cultivated forms of the flower are grown at home.

Most often, indoor gardens are decorated with the following types of shefflers.

• Eight-leaved (Schefflera octophylla). Its leaves are shiny, leathery, elongated, lanceolate. They become pointed towards the top and have a rounded base. Because of their shape, this shefflera is popularly called the octopus tree. The leaves are rough to the touch. They reach 30-40 cm in length and 10 cm in width. The petioles are long, strongly drooping, and milky-cream in color. From 6 to 12 leaves are attached to each. While they are young, their color is olive green with a bottle yellow tint. Over time, they turn a rich malachite shade, against which the paler veins become clearly visible. From below sheet plate matte, its color is dim, pale green.
• Palmate (Schefflera digitata). Also known as Aralia schefflera. Found naturally in New Zealand. This is a tall (up to 3-6 m) tree, the shape of its leaves resembles a palm tree. Each of them is divided into 7-10 plates, the length of which is 15-35 cm. The leaves have the shape of a highly elongated oval, pointed at the base and at the top. They are wide - up to 6 cm. Their surface is glossy, leathery, like parchment. The edges of young leaves are feathery, and as they grow, sparse teeth appear on them. They are located on a long (up to 20 cm) tube-shaped petiole. Blooming palmate schefflera produces umbrella inflorescences consisting of 4-8 buds. They are very small. When open, the diameter of the flower is about 0.6 cm. There are also variegated types of this shefflera.
• Tree-like (Schefflera arboricola). The trunk of the plant is erect and branched. The color of the shoots depends on their age. While they are young, it is green. Adult shoots acquire a light brown tint. Is different tree species Schefflera are shaped like leaves: they are imparipinnate. They reach a length of 20 cm. Gold Capella varieties (with juicy green leaves covered with small yellow spots), Gerda (with colorful lime-green leaves resembling open rosettes), Amate (having increased resistance to diseases and pests and lush green leaves). Schefflera's tree home garden can grow up to 1.2 m in height.
• Radiant leaf (Schefflera actinophylla). Its second name is star-leaved. It is most often grown at home. Its trunk is dusty brown, powerful, straight, noticeably thickened at the base. The leaves are divided into 14-16 lobes. At first they are ovoid, then they become oval-elongated, pointed towards the apex. Their average length is 15 cm, width is 5 cm. They are slightly wavy at the edges, attached to long petioles of a red-brown hue. The color of the leaves depends on the plant variety. In some species they are shiny and rich green, in others they are mustard (Green Gold) or olive-yellow, jagged, similar to oak (Nova). In the middle part, the lobes are wide; their edges may even touch neighboring ones. The veins on the leaves are lighter in color and are clearly visible. An indoor flower can reach a height of 3 m.

All types of shefflera are unpretentious. Caring for them will not seem difficult even for inexperienced gardeners.

Lighting and temperature

Schefflera needs a lot of light. The optimal place for it is a window sill located on the east or west side of the house. A plant with monochromatic leaves will also be comfortable on northern windows. If they are covered with fancy patterns of white and yellow color(Gerda, Hong Kong, Gold Capella, Sofia, Janine), due to insufficient lighting, the patterns on them will fade here.

The southern windows of the Schefflere are not suitable. The flower will be too hot and sunny on them. It is better to place the tree on a well-lit table, moving it towards the window. The plant patiently tolerates unfavorable conditions, but cannot withstand the schefflera for long in the sun - its leaves turn yellow and become covered with burns. Therefore, it is recommended to hide it from the heat under a light curtain.

Shefflera can also be placed in partial shade. But you shouldn’t place it in the back of the room, at a considerable distance from the light source, otherwise, instead of a spectacular tall tree a stunted misunderstanding with sparse leaves will grow. This winter indoor flower needs additional lighting. This is especially important when kept warm (temperatures above 17°C).

In the warm season, the pot with shefflera can be taken outside: to the terrace, balcony or garden. The main thing is to shelter it from the bright sun and protect it from wind and drafts.

Despite its tropical origin, the plant does not like heat. Its preferred temperature is between 17-22°C in summer and at least 12°C in winter period. Schefflera reacts sharply to overheating, throwing off its leaves. For this reason, window sills under which the battery is located and corners near heating devices are poor options for placing it. Flower leaves also fall due to drafts and sudden temperature fluctuations.

Watering and humidity

This indoor plant loves a humid atmosphere, but does not tolerate stagnant water in the pot. For those whose home garden is decorated with Schlumbergera truncata (better known as Decembrist), its requirements will seem familiar. During the period of active growth, Schefflera requires frequent (with an interval of 2-3 days), but moderate watering. The soil should not be allowed to dry out. It should always remain slightly damp. But short-term drought in schefflera is easier to deal with than constant dampness, due to which the soil turns sour and the roots of the tree begin to rot. Overwatering is indicated by blackening and flying leaves. Such problems will not arise if you grow Schefflera hydroponically.

When the flower is in the dormant stage, watering is reduced to 1 procedure every 7-10 days. It is important to follow this rule if the plant is kept at low temperatures in winter. Schefflers defend water for irrigation. Distilled or boiled is also suitable. Its temperature should be room temperature or 2-3°C higher than room temperature.

Increased air humidity is the key to the full development of shefflera. On hot days, the tree is sprayed daily, using soft water for the procedures, otherwise, after it dries, white spots will remain on the leaves. Clean this indoor plant from dust with a damp sponge or give it a warm shower. In winter, a favorable microclimate for shefflera is created by filling the tray of the pot with wet expanded clay. You can replace it with pebbles or moss. The roots of the flower should not come into contact with water. If the room is warm in winter (more than 17°C), do not stop spraying the plant.

Propagation by stem cuttings

Flower growers who are not familiar with breeding Schefflera are interested in how the tree reproduces. You can grow it in different ways:

• from seeds;
• from cuttings;
• from the air layer.

Most often, flower propagation is carried out by cuttings. Having selected the most developed semi-lignified shoot on an adult sheffler, it is cut off with a sharp knife and divided into parts. Each cutting should have 2 internodes. Then the shoots are dipped into a solution of a root growth stimulator (Heteroauxin) for 6-8 hours. It is advisable to stock up on Kornevin. The cuttings are dipped in it before planting.

They are rooted in separate containers in a mixture of peat and sand. To prepare the substrate, both components are taken in equal volumes. The container with the planted cuttings is placed under plastic bag. For them to take root, it is necessary to provide them with two conditions:

• warm (about 22°C);
• bright but diffuse lighting.

Caring for Schefflera cuttings at this stage is easy. You just need to periodically moisten the soil with a spray bottle and ventilate the greenhouse, briefly removing the bag. When the cuttings take root, the temperature is reduced to 18-20°C and the shelter is removed. Plants are left in planting containers until their roots completely entwine the soil ball. They are then moved into pots larger diameter. Until they take root in a new place, the temperature should not rise above 14-16°C.

Alternative methods of reproduction

It is almost impossible to obtain schefflera seeds at home, so you will have to purchase them in the store. They are sown early - in January-February. To increase germination, the seeds are pre-treated with a growth stimulant (Epin, Zircon).

The planting container is filled with peat mixed with sand or a substrate made from the following components:

• turf land;
• leaf soil;
• sand.

The recommended planting depth is 3 seed diameters. Having finished sowing, the container is placed under glass or covered with film. Schefflera seeds germinate at a temperature of 20-24°C. Caring for crops comes down to daily ventilation and moistening the soil as needed.

It will be easier to propagate a flower in a generative way if you heat the container with the planted seeds from below. This way the schefflera sprouts will appear faster.

When the seedlings produce 2-3 true leaves, they are picked into separate pots. They should not be large - from 7 to 9 cm in diameter. Spiked shefflers need coolness. The temperature in the room with them is maintained at 14-16°C. Closer to autumn, they are replanted again, using pots whose diameter is 10-12 cm. They need a substrate almost the same as crops. Only the proportions change: the components are mixed in a ratio of 2:1:1.

To propagate an adult shefflera by air layering, a vertical cut is made on its trunk. Sphagnum moss soaked in a nutrient solution is applied to it. It is prepared from complex fertilizer or immunomodulator drugs. Add 1 g of substance to 1 liter of water. Having pressed the moss to the trunk of the shefflera, it is tightly wrapped with film on top. Constant humidity must be maintained under it, this must be carefully monitored.

Soon roots will appear at the cut site. When they grow up (this will take about 2 months), the flower is cut off and planted in a pot. There is no need to throw away your old shefflera. It is cut off, leaving a low stump. If you water the plant, it will eventually produce young shoots.

Feeding and replanting

During the period of intensive growth (March-August), Schefflera needs care in the form of fertilizing. It is carried out once every 1.5-2 weeks. Complex suits the flower mineral compounds, intended for decorative deciduous crops. It is advisable to alternate liquid feeding of shefflera with the addition of organic matter. The plant responds well to crushed eggshells. 1 tbsp. l substances are scattered over the surface of the soil in a pot. In winter, this indoor flower is not fed.

Young shefflers require annual replanting. For mature trees, the pot is changed less often - once every 2-3 years, when their roots become cramped in the old one. To adhere to this replanting scheme, every spring the top layer of soil (to a depth of 5 cm) is replaced with fresh one. The new container should be significantly larger in diameter than the previous one - by 5-6 cm. Best time for transplantation - spring.

The bottom of the pot is covered with a thick drainage layer. Sheffler likes soil that is light, loose, and high in nutrients. Of the ready-made substrates, palm soil or universal soil is suitable for her.

If you make a soil mixture for a plant yourself, you need the following components:

• compost soil (3 parts);
• peat (1 part);
• coarse sand (1.5 parts).

Transplantation is carried out by transferring the flower from pot to pot and trying not to destroy the earthen lump. The voids are filled with soil, pressing it down. Finish the transplant with watering.

Trimming

If shefflera decorates an indoor flower garden, it is given the shape of a tree or bush. In the first case, it will look spectacular next to the Benjamin ficus. In the second case, Schlumbergera truncata will be a good neighbor for the flower. Young Schefflera have thin stems. In order to get a beautiful powerful tree in the future, they are tied to a support.

Whether a flower needs pruning depends on the variety. Radiant varieties of the plant, which have only one stem, do not require it. If the shefflera is woody, the purpose of such care is to save space. When the flower has grown greatly, the upper parts of its shoots can be cut off. This stimulates their branching.

The decorative appearance of the plant suffers from pruning, so many Scheffler owners do without it. To make the flower bushy and lush, 2-3 trees are placed in one pot. The leaves that interfere with each other are not touched, allowing them to dry out. When this happens, they are pruned. For this, a sharp knife is used, the blade of which is disinfected with alcohol, a solution of potassium permanganate, or by hardening. This will protect the houseplant from infection entering the wound.

If it gets on the skin and mucous membranes, shefflera juice can cause irritation. Therefore, pruning it requires caution. It is recommended to carry it out with rubber gloves.

Leaves change color and fall

Improper care can reduce the decorative value of the shefflera and even destroy it. An indicator of a tree's well-being is its appearance. Yellowing of the leaves of the plant indicates an excess of sunlight. In this case, the flower must be removed from the windowsill or shaded. Insufficient soil and air moisture levels are the main reason for blackening of schefflera leaves at home. It starts from their ends. If you normalize watering and increase the frequency of spraying, the tree will gradually restore its former beauty.

The leaves of a flower fall off due to pests or unfavorable conditions for it:

• prolonged hypothermia (if the room temperature is below 14°C) or overheating (at 30°C);
• chronic waterlogging, which resulted in rotting of the Schefflera roots;
• insufficient lighting (plant species with variegated leaves often react to it this way).

Having discovered that the Schefflera roots are rotting, it is urgent to save the tree. It is removed from the pot. The roots are carefully examined, cutting off diseased areas. Then they are immersed in a solution of a growth stimulating drug (Epin, Zircon). The next step is to disinfect the Schefflera roots. For this you can use Fitosporin or crushed coal. After treating the roots, the plant is planted in fresh, slightly moistened soil mixture. The pot is placed under a plastic bag. Shefflera is kept in such a greenhouse for 5-7 days. Periodically remove the bag to ventilate and water the flower.

Insects dangerous to wood:

• scale insects;
• thrips;
• spider mites.

Due to their invasion, the development of schefflera slows down, the leaves on the flower turn yellow and then fall off. If pests are not controlled, the plant will wither. Get rid of them by initial stages defeats are easier. Detected insects are carefully removed from the leaves and stems with a sponge, cloth or cotton swab soaked in soapy water.

If pests on the sheffler have formed an entire colony, you will have to use insecticides. Actellik, Fitoverm and Karbofos have proven themselves well. You should work with them carefully, following safety rules and making sure that the drug solution does not get into the soil. If necessary, re-treatment is carried out after 2 weeks.

Schefflera is a truly versatile houseplant. It will subtly highlight the beauty of other flowers in the home garden, but even when planted alone, it will delight the eye with its lush, bright crown, creating an atmosphere of warmth and comfort. Caring for the tree is easy. It is necessary to provide the shefflera with good lighting and constant humidity, and it will thank you for your care by quickly turning into a tall, spectacular flower.

Lovers of indoor plants who believe in omens will find many reasons to get this guest from the tropics. According to Feng Shui, a well-developed sheffler in the house speaks of material well-being and peace of mind. This plant, like a sponge, absorbs negative energy. Being next to him relieves anxiety, fears and sad thoughts, calming, invigorating and bringing a feeling of peace and harmony. If you place a pot of shefflera in the bedroom, you don’t have to worry about nightmares and insomnia. Its placement in an office or study room would be successful - esotericism ascribes to wood the ability to facilitate and improve the acquisition of knowledge.