Hyacinths planting, care and propagation at home. Hyacinths: description of propagation methods available to the common man

Hyacinth is one of the most charming plants, used both to decorate the garden and to grow in room conditions. This flower, easy to plant and care, exudes a delicate, wonderful aroma, giving you a spring mood. At the same time, you can make it bloom even in winter by creating the necessary conditions.

Hyacinth: origin, appearance and main properties

The genus Hyacinth belongs to the Asparagus family, whose representatives are distributed in the regions of Central Asia and the Eastern Mediterranean, namely in the Balkans, Syria and Turkey.

The name primrose is translated from Greek as “flower of rain.”

Hyacinth is a perennial herbaceous ephemeroid (a plant with a very short growing season). The time of its growth, flowering and fruiting occurs in the spring, and during the period of hot summer, cool autumn and frosty winter, the development of the flower stops.

The large, dense hyacinth bulb has a rounded shape and is covered with thin filmy scales. Leaf blades are elongated.

Feature of the plant: during flowering, the size of the leaves is relatively short, and after the peduncle dies, they grow up to 20 cm.

The bell-shaped flowers are decorated with thin and gracefully curved petals. The buds are numerous; on one racemose inflorescence they can bloom from 12 to 35 or more pieces. IN wildlife The hyacinth corolla is usually blue or white tone, and the range of varietal flowers is very wide.

Popular varieties

Bred by hybridizers great amount varieties with large flowers and intoxicating aroma, differing in the size of the inflorescences, color, height of the peduncle, and timing of flowering. The most common ones include:

1. Royal Navy. A variety with double flowers of a rich purple hue.
2. Brooklyn. A variety with white-yellow-cream flowers with a darker center.
3. Raphael. Distinctive feature varieties have semi-open flowers with narrow elongated petals.
4. Rosalia. The flowers of this hyacinth variety are bright pink.
5. Ostara. Feature varieties - bright purple inflorescences and a fairly long flowering period (about three weeks).
6. Woodstock. Purple-lilac hyacinth with large inflorescence.
7. Midnight Mystique. The variety is a find of the last decade. Its characteristic features are original flowers almost black in color.
8. Carnegie. A variety with magnificent snow-white flowers.
9. Fondant. Elegant pink hyacinth, the petals of which are shimmering with mother-of-pearl.
10. Orange Boven. The variety boasts salmon-apricot flowers with a yellow throat and dark pink perianth tips.

Photo gallery: varietal diversity of hyacinths

The Royal Navy variety is a hyacinth with double flowers of a rich purple hue. The Brooklyn variety is a delicate hyacinth with yellowish-colored flowers with a darker center. A distinctive feature of the Raphael variety is semi-open flowers with narrow elongated petals. The flowers of the Rosalia hyacinth variety are bright pink. A characteristic feature of the Ostara variety is bright purple inflorescences and a fairly long flowering period Woodstock variety - purple-lilac hyacinth with large inflorescences
Characteristic feature the Midnight Mystery variety has original flowers that are almost black in color. The Carnegie variety is a fragrant hyacinth with magnificent snow-white flowers.
Fondant - elegant pink hyacinth, the petals of which are shimmering with mother-of-pearl. The Orange Boven variety boasts salmon-apricot flowers with a yellow throat and dark pink tips of the perianths

Optimal conditions for hyacinth in spring-winter and summer-autumn: table

Planting hyacinth and features of forcing a flower in an apartment

IN natural conditions Hyacinth is a primrose that blooms in mid to late spring. But indoors, flowering can be significantly accelerated and the plant can be made to bloom by any date, for example, Christmas, New Year or March 8th. To do this, the bulbs are brought out of the “sleep” state by creating certain conditions. The process is called "forcing". Hyacinths yield to it quite easily. Luxurious fragrant flowers are easy to obtain at home.

There are two ways to grow hyacinth: in substrate or in water. The following composition is suitable as a soil mixture:

• garden soil;
• peat;
• sand.

All components must be taken in equal amount and mix thoroughly so that the result is a light and loose substrate. Hyacinth also requires good drainage, it can be made from pieces broken bricks or use expanded clay.

Choosing a pot

The container should be small the best option will use pots with a diameter of 1.5 times the size of the bulb. You can also use wider bowls if you plan to plant several plants in one bowl. In this case, select the container according to the size of the planting material; the bulbs should be positioned so that there is a distance of about two centimeters between them.

There is no need to replant hyacinth bought in a store. The flower can only be covered with a paper cap to make the peduncle larger.

How to expel hyacinth in the ground: preparatory stage

1. Choose large, healthy bulbs that are more than 5cm in diameter. They are usually well-ripened, meaning that flower buds managed to form well and accumulate sufficient quantity nutrients for excellent flowering.
2. Keep the bulbs intended for forcing for about a week in a dry room. During this time they will ripen.
3. Place a layer of drainage in the prepared container, pour coarse sand on it, which will protect planting material from decay.
4. Fill the container with the prepared substrate.
5. Drop off at soil mixture hyacinth bulb, deepening it by half or two-thirds of its height.
6. Water the soil lightly; the soil should not be soggy, otherwise rotting will begin.
7. Cover the pot with dark material, since the rooting process must take place in the dark.
8. Transfer the pot with the planted bulb to a cool room with a temperature of 5–9 o C. You can place it on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator intended for storing vegetables, or take it out to the balcony.

Forcing hyacinths planted in the ground

1. When the hyacinth leaves grow 8–10 cm, remove the dark cloth from the pot, move it to a bright place and start watering the plant. Thus, the time for forcing the peduncle begins, which takes 3–4 weeks. Based on this, you can predict the flowering time. For example, to get flowering for the New Year, you need to remove the hyacinth from a cool and dark place in early December.
2. The hyacinth temperature during this period should be from 10 to 20 o C. At a higher temperature, flowering will be short.
3. Accustom the plant to the temperature in the room gradually, since if conditions change abruptly, the flower will begin to grow leaves to the detriment of flowering.
4. During this period, hyacinth needs to reduce daylight hours, since in bright light the peduncle will grow short. To do this, gardeners use a cap made of dark paper or cover the plant with an opaque plastic glass (first for the whole day, then half, and then for part of the day). It is recommended to use this simple device until the peduncle rises above the leaf blades.
5. When the hyacinth begins to bloom, you can remove the cap and enjoy the flowering of the plant.

At home, hyacinth blooms for about two weeks, however, if the flower pot is moved to a cool place overnight, this period can be extended for another seven days.

An effective option: how to properly expel bulbs in water

Manufacturers often use the method of forcing hyacinth in water. You can try growing hyacinth at home this way.

1. Until September, keep the bulb at a temperature of about 25 o C.
2. Choose a container that tapers at the top to about 4 cm. Small vases or special vessels for forcing hyacinths are suitable for this.
3. Place a few pieces on the bottom charcoal which will help prevent rotting. To prevent it from floating, add a layer of coarse sand on top.
4. Pour water into the flowerpot. To force hyacinth, it is advisable to use soft water: rain or melt water.
5. Place the bulb on the neck of the container so that the distance between the bottom and the surface of the water is 1–2 cm.
6. Wrap the container with the onion in dark paper and store it in a dark and cool room with a temperature of 4–8°C.
7. Periodically inspect the bulb and add water.
8. After about two months, long roots will develop and leaf blades and inflorescences will begin to grow. At this time, you need to move the flower to a bright, warm place with a temperature of 22–25°C.

Please note that growing hyacinth requires very good lighting, otherwise the peduncle will become very elongated and will grow thin and weak.

Forcing flowers for certain dates (New Year, March 8, etc.)

If you plan to have charming hyacinths bloom on a special date, then you should plan the stages of forcing the flower in advance.

1. To gorgeous flowers with a delicate aroma bloomed by the New Year, it is necessary to begin the preparatory stage of forcing in mid-summer. In July, the bulbs are removed from the soil, cleared of soil and stored for two weeks at a temperature of about 25–30 o C and high humidity(approximately 90%).
2. After this, the temperature of the bulb is reduced to 20–25 o C and kept under such conditions for about two more weeks.
3. Closer to September, the planting material is transferred to a cool place with a temperature of 10–13 o C. At this point preparatory stage The forcing of hyacinth ends by the New Year, and the immediate process begins in October, when the bulbs, after a rest period, are planted in pots.
4. If you want the hyacinth to bloom in February, then forcing should begin two weeks later, in mid-October. The flower will bloom in March if the bulbs are planted in the ground or placed in water in early November.

Video: hyacinth forcing technology

How to care for hyacinth

Hyacinth cannot grow at home for several years. The bulb is forced once. At this time, it loses a lot of strength and it is unlikely that it will be possible to achieve excellent flowering again. After forcing, the bulb can be planted in the garden.

Watering and fertilizing

Hyacinth is a moisture-loving flower. The plant must be watered regularly, after the top layer of soil has dried. In this case, it is recommended to pour water only along the edge of the container, since liquid getting into the axils of the leaf blades can cause the death of the hyacinth. The procedure requires soft, settled water. room temperature. Ideally, it will be rain or melt. The flower does not need additional moisture in the form of spraying.

When forcing hyacinth in water, it is necessary to periodically add it to the vessel. Experienced flower growers It is recommended to add not water, but a weak solution of complex fertilizer. For feeding, you can use a universal preparation for bulbous plants, diluting the solution at half the dose recommended by the manufacturer.

Hyacinths grown in soil mixture also respond well to fertilizing. The color of the flowers becomes brighter, and the flowering period lasts much longer. It is recommended to use universal preparations for bulbous or beautiful flowering plants. The procedure should be carried out once a week from the moment the leaves appear until the plant fades. After this, feeding should be stopped completely.

Features of caring for the plant after flowering

After the hyacinth flowers wither, the peduncle should be trimmed. During this period, you should completely stop feeding, but continue to water the flower until the leaf blades turn yellow. During this period, the number and volume of watering must be reduced by approximately half. There is no need to cut off yellowed leaves; they should die off naturally.

How to provide hyacinth with a dormant period

When the leaf blades wilt, remove the bulb from the pot. Dry it for five to seven days in a well-ventilated place at a temperature of about 20–22°C. After this, remove all dead scales and trim the roots. Provide the hyacinth bulb with a period of “sleep”, which should last approximately 3 months. During forcing, the bulb is greatly depleted and cannot be subjected to the procedure again. The plant can be planted in the garden in August and enjoy its flowering for several more seasons.

Table: consequences of improper care and what to do to solve problems

Methods for treating and preventing diseases and pests: table

Hyacinth is practically not affected by diseases and pests, but only if the planting material is healthy and the plant care is correct. Sometimes, under unfavorable conditions, the flower can be damaged by yellow bacterial rot, and hyacinth pests can attack root mites, stem nematode and aphids.

Propagation of hyacinths at home

Exist various ways reproduction of hyacinths: baby bulbs, bulb scales and seeds. As a rule, amateur flower growers use only vegetative methods, and seed hybridizers are used to breed new varieties.

Reproduction by baby bulbs

During natural reproduction, an adult specimen produces only 1–2 children per year (in rare cases, 3 or 4). They are separated from the mother bulb when dug up after flowering. The number of children can be increased by making a crosswise notch on the bottom with a depth of about 5 mm. In a year, such a bulb will produce twice as many children, which, after digging and drying, must be separated and planted for growing.

Reproduction by scales - step-by-step master class

How to propagate hyacinth from seeds

Hyacinth is propagated by seeds, planting them in the garden. It is very difficult to create the necessary conditions indoors, so this method has not taken root among lovers of indoor floriculture.

As you know, hyacinths reproduce slowly. An adult bulb, depending on the variety, can form 1-2 children per year, less often 3-4.

In order for the bulb to grow faster, I pick off the inflorescences of 3-4 year old plants. In this case, the children turn out larger. I only pluck out the flowers and leave the peduncle. In this case, the bulb will be protected from various microbes and moisture. Large bulbs can be used for forcing.

If I cut flowers for bouquets, I fill the cut with a solution of potassium permanganate and cover it with a small piece of polyethylene for several days. It is especially important to do this if the weather is rainy or damp. This will also protect the bulb from moisture and the development of fungal diseases. The bulbs of hyacinths whose inflorescences have been cut grow 2-3 years faster and produce babies more readily.

I dig up the bulbs every year without fail. I do this only after the green mass has almost completely turned yellow. After digging the bulb, I dry it for several days under a canopy in a dry shady place. Then I remove old scales and roots. I am preparing a solution for disinfecting bulbs. To do this, I grind the green mass of leaves, flowers and soft stems of calendula in a meat grinder, add a little boiled water and soak the onions in this juice for 5-10 minutes. This will help protect them from various fungal diseases, such as fusarium. I place the bulbs treated in this way on grates with their bottoms up and leave them to dry in the attic. It's dry there, but not very hot.

From mid-July, I move the trellises with bulbs to the basement, where I have a cement floor, it’s warm and humid. To increase the humidity, I place a mat on the cement, which I wet from time to time. Around the second half of September, babies appear around the bottom. I don't break them out because they are still very small. I plant the bulbs in the beds in October with the children.

In some varieties of hyacinths, children appear very reluctantly. In order to stimulate their development, I wrap a small thin cotton wool flagellum around the bottom. Every 3-5 days I moisten it with water using a pipette, so as not to wet either the bottom or the onion. After about a month, small tubercles appear under this flagellum around the bottom, this is a hint of future children. They grow up quickly, I don’t separate them. I plant these hyacinths along with others.

I separate only the big ones, those that easily lag behind the bulb. I plant them separately from adults.

Planting bulbs

I prepare the beds in advance. At the beginning of September I dig deep, 1.5-2 shovels deep. When digging, I add fertilizers: superphosphate, ammonium nitrate and wood ash.

In order to protect the plantings from diseases, I keep the bulbs in a dark solution of potassium permanganate for 15 minutes, then dry them and dip them in green calendula mass, prepared as described above, and dry them again.

I plant them in the beds when the soil temperature is 8-9 degrees, about one and a half to two months before the onset of frost. In my region (Central Ukraine) it is mid-October. I make grooves and pour a little on the bottom river sand. I place the bulbs, cover them with soil and compact them slightly. For the winter, with the onset of stable cold weather, I cover the plantings with cut annuals and herbaceous stems

In early spring, bright, lush and fragrant hyacinths bloom. They are so beautiful that you want to watch them not only on garden plot, but also at home.

Growing the plant is also possible in pots. A modern methods care help to find the answer to the question of how to propagate hyacinth at home.

Reproduction in nature

In the wild they grow in the Mediterranean and Asia Minor countries. This plant loves warmth and moisture. In its natural environment, the flower reproduces by bulbs. They are dense and consist of the lower reaches of leaves.

The upper stem grows from the bottom of the tuber. After the flowering period passes, the base along with the leaves dry out. But, in the corner of the topmost sheet, on the stem inside the bulb itself, a bud is born. Over time, it grows and turns into a tuber that blooms on next year.

In addition to the main offspring, in the corners of other leaves too Small and weaker buds are formed. They're called kids. When separated, such bulbs bloom only after a few years. The plant also drops seeds, which are in barely noticeable boxes.

Growing in pots

Since it is not difficult to grow hyacinth from a bulb in a pot, you can grow the plant at home. It is advisable to place flowers on windows located on the south and southeast sides. They need light about 15 hours a day.

Important! Despite the fact that the plant loves sunlight, it does not tolerate direct rays well. During the hot season, windows should be shaded.

In order for hyacinths to bloom longer and please the eye, you should adhere to certain rules while leaving. Among them:

1. The temperature in the room should be between 20 and 25 degrees.
2. The plant does not tolerate drafts and cold air.
3. The flower needs regular and careful watering at the root. You can't spray it!

Soil for pots can be purchased at the store or prepared yourself by mixing peat, humus, humus, sand and turf soil. Top dressing mineral fertilizers is carried out regularly, it is especially important during the period of growth and flowering.

Home breeding

Hyacinth, which in nature reproduces using bulbs and seeds, is also propagated at home using the same methods. But, independent breeding has some peculiarities.

Seeds

This method is mainly used by breeders to develop new varieties. Since the seeds look inconspicuous, you should wait until flowering has passed. During this period they ripen in small boxes.

Closed light yellow specimens are selected for harvesting. They are dried for several days.

Advice! It is better to keep dry seeds in paper bags in a dry, dark and cool place.

This generally not very informative video shows what hyacinth seeds look like right in the garden:

You can sow them V open ground or in a container with soil. Seedlings should be placed densely to a depth of about 1.5-2 centimeters from the surface. It is best to plant hyacinth seeds in the garden in the fall, then the first shoots will appear in the spring.

They are saved from frost by covering them with a 20-centimeter layer of hay, mulch or compost. When propagating at home, it is advisable to use a container with seedlings keep it in a cool place all winter and constantly moisturize.

After six months, the first shoots will appear, which cannot be replanted immediately. At good care the onion will be accepted. It is left to winter for another 1 year. Seedlings sprouted in containers are not dug up for 2 years.

Bulbs

Since the easiest way to germinate a flower is with the help of bulbs, you can propagate them by children that have ripened inside at the bottom. Offspring are usually produced by plants that bloom for 5-6 years. For education the largest number children use artificial methods of stimulation:

• cutting the bottom;
• cutting out the bottom.

For scoring choose large tubers. They are washed clean running water and disinfected. Can be treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. After this, the bulbs are dried.

The prepared tubers are cut with a cross from the bottom. The depth of the cut should be about 0.5 cm. After this, they are left in a warm place to open. When cut, up to 15 large babies are born.

In the second case, large specimens are also selected. They are washed and dried in a dry room for about a week. When the roots begin to separate, you can begin the operation.

The bottom is cut out cone-shaped without damaging the scales. After each tuber, the knife is treated with alcohol or boiling water.

The edges of the cut are pollinated with ground coal. After the procedure, the bulbs are laid out, cut side out, into containers with a mesh bottom and covered with a bag. After a couple of months, up to 30 babies are born. Planting and care are carried out as usual.

This video shows how a flowerbed is planted with hyacinths in the fall in an unusual way. In spring they will go well with conifers:

Leaflets

Leaves should be cut off when the buds are swelling.. You can take no more than two from one plant. The leaves are separated at the base. Three transverse incisions are made on each of them. The top part is useless, so it's best not to use it.

For germination, the leaves are kept in a special solution. Half a tablet of heteroauxin is diluted in 1 liter of water. The holding time before planting is about 12 hours. Seedlings are placed in containers with soil to a depth of 2-3 cm.

Cover the containers with polyethylene. It is important to maintain humidity and diffused light, then after 1-1.5 months the babies will appear, and then the roots and first leaves. The finished cuttings are transplanted into a greenhouse or into pots.

Double scales

This method allows get up to 50 babies from one tuber.

Select dense, ripe bulbs.

Using a scalpel or a sharp knife, they are divided into 5-6 parts.

Each part is carefully disassembled into individual scales.

Important! Each separated part must retain the base of the bottom!

Cut edges are disinfected with fungicide or crushed coal. The processed scales are placed in a bag. You can also put perlite or clean sand in it. They are kept for 1-1.5 months in diffused light in a room with a temperature of at least 20 degrees.

Then they maintain the same period, lowering the heat by 5 degrees. After some time, small bulbs will appear at the base of the scales. Ready seedlings are transplanted in late summer - early autumn. After 3 winters the first flowers will appear.

Propagation of hyacinth

Raising the topic of hyacinths inspired the idea of ​​opening a topic about their reproduction. After all, this flower, unlike other bulbous flowers, is not only not afraid of rodents, but, on the contrary, is grateful to them for damaging the bulb.
The technique for propagating hyacinth was “suggested” by mice.
Hyacinths are propagated vegetatively and by seeds. An adult onion, depending on the variety, forms 1-2 onions, less often from 3-4 to 5-8. They are separated from the mother bulb after digging, grown for 2-3 years and used for planting.

More effective method is preparation (incision or bottom cut), as well as the use of bulbous scales or leaf cuttings. At the same time, the reproduction rate increases, but the plants bloom in 3-4 years.
The ability of hyacinths to reproduce artificially was also discovered by accident. During storage, the mice gnawed at the bottom of the bulbs, and rapid cell division began in the wounded areas. After 30-45 days, nodules grew, on which buds subsequently appeared - the rudiments of future children. This discovery gave rise to artificial vegetative propagation. The young bulbs obtained in this way have correct form, form beautiful and powerful inflorescences, while the bulbs formed during natural reproduction for the most part angular in shape, loose and produce weak inflorescences.
Optimal time preparations from July 1 to July 20, but if the bulbs were dug in early June, then the bottom can be cut out in mid-June. For propagation by cutting out the bottom, bulbs with a diameter of 5-6 cm without mechanical damage are selected. They are washed in clean water and treated in a 2% solution of potassium permanganate, then dried in a dry room. Such bulbs can be considered prepared for preparation.

For convenience, you need to have two sets of tools (a well-sharpened knife with a narrow blade, a teaspoon with a sharp edge, a scalpel). One of them will be in use, the other will be in a disinfectant liquid: 70% alcohol or vodka, where it is immersed for 10-15 minutes, then rinsed with water and wiped with a clean cloth. It is not recommended to touch the surface of the cutouts with your hands.
Bottom cutting technique simple. First, use a sharp knife to peel the old part of the bottom of the onion down to fresh tissue. IN left hand take the onion with the bottom up, and with the right one, using a round spoon with a sharpened edge, make a cutout at the very base of the scales. The bottom tissue is removed completely, since bulbs do not form on the remaining parts. As a result, a funnel-shaped depression is obtained in the bulb. This method makes it possible not only to propagate, but also to improve the health of planting material, that is, to obtain high-quality bulbs.
You can propagate hyacinths by cutting the bottom. During this operation, two or four identical incisions are made on the bottom, strictly intersecting in the center. If the bottom is to be cut into four parts, the cuts should be deep, reaching half of the bulb. The operation begins on the side of the bulb, almost from the neck, then the bottom is shallowly cut with a knife blade and the incision is completed on the opposite side of the bulb, also almost at the neck.
Preparation must be carried out dry, sunny weather so that mold does not appear on the cuts and the bulbs do not rot. They are laid tightly next to each other, cut side up, and one variety is separated from another by a partition and a label. At this time, the air temperature is maintained within 22-25°C and humidity not higher than 70-75%. After about a week, a thin cork layer forms on the cut surface, and after 30-40 days it is completely healed.
When bulges (callus) appear at the site of the incisions, the period of bulb formation begins. At this time, the temperature is gradually raised to 30-35°C, and air humidity to 90%. In this case, the room should be ventilated. The bulbs grow well in the dark and can be much larger than in the light. When there is an excess of it, they are colored green color. The mother bulb is usually ready for planting in the ground by mid-October. By this time, there are onions the size of a pea on the entire surface of the cut, while the storage scales wither and decrease in volume.

Fertile leaves

In the budding phase, hyacinths can be propagated by leaves. Take two leaves from each plant and immediately immerse them in a heteroauxin solution (0.5 tablets per 1 liter of water) for 5-10 hours. Then they are planted in a box with sand and peat and kept in diffused light at a temperature of 15°C and a humidity of 90%. After 10 days, callus forms on the wound surface, and after 30-40 days, the rudiments of the bulbs form. In two months they will have their first roots and a young leaf. At this time, the plants are transplanted into nutritious soil. One leaf can produce 8-10 babies.

Another way is to propagate hyacinths with double scales.

After digging, cleaning and drying, the top of the bulb is cut off by one third of its height. Then they cut it into eight parts and divide it into double scales so that a piece of the bottom is preserved on each pair. A large bulb produces 100 paired scales. For disinfection, use crushed coal and foundation in equal quantities. They are then placed in plastic bags with perlite moistened with 1-2 drops of a 0.1% solution of foundationazole. The bags are tied and stored at a temperature of 22-26°C. After a month, a callus with small tubercles forms on the break line of the scales - the rudiments of future bulbs. In September, they are again treated for prophylaxis with a 0.1% solution of foundationazole and the bags are tied again. After 3-3.5 months from the moment of division, roots begin to form on the bulbs. At this time (in November), the bulbs are planted in boxes with sand and transferred to the basement. Rooting takes place at 10-12°C. The substrate must be moist.
In our climatic conditions, small onions obtained through artificial propagation are planted for growing no later than October, so that they can take root well before the cold weather. They are planted with the bottom down, but you can also plant them up. This applies to those varieties in which the bulbs grow on the surface of the cuts. The distance between rows is 25 cm, and between bulbs 15-20 cm. Planting depth on light soils is 7-8 cm.
In spring, the children form one green leaf and 1-2 roots. By the end of the growing season (June) they dry out. After the above-ground part dies, young bulbs are not dug out of the ground, since during storage they often dry out, get sick and die. In the second year, they become larger and more stable, and losses during their digging and storage decrease.
Hyacinths will bloom only in the third or fourth year. During flowering, varietal cleaning is carried out. At the end of June - beginning of July (after the leaves die), young biennial bulbs are dug up, dried for 3-4 days under a canopy, cleaned of soil, remaining leaves, old roots and sorted. They are stored at an air humidity of 70-80% and a temperature of 20-22°C in the summer, and in the fall it is reduced to 10-15°C. Small bulbs are grown to full-fledged flowering bulbs, as described above.

Bulbs from seeds

Seed propagation is used only when breeding new varieties, since hyacinths will bloom only in 5-7 years. They have a varied range of colors and are of interest to breeders.
Seeds set best in warm, sunny weather. When the boxes have not yet opened, but have already turned yellow, they are collected and laid out for drying and ripening. After 4-5 days, the boxes usually crack. The seeds are collected, dried, cleaned and placed in paper bags (each variety separately). Before sowing, they are stored in a cool place, as they must go through the vernalization stage. Sowed in autumn. When sown in spring and summer, they will germinate only in the spring of next year.
At the beginning of October, in cold greenhouses or on specially prepared beds, grooves are made 1.5-2 cm deep at a distance of 6-8 cm. Sand is poured onto their bottom to prevent the seeds from rotting. They are sown densely (150-200 pieces per 1 linear meter).
In the spring, at the end of April - beginning of May, friendly shoots will appear. By the end of the growing season, a pear-shaped bulb the size of a pea will grow. During the growing season, plants need moderate watering, loosening the soil, removing weeds and fertilizing with mineral fertilizers: 20 g of ammonium nitrate, 30 g of superphosphate, 10 g of potassium sulfate (or 15 g of potassium salt). These fertilizers are dissolved in 10 liters of water and used for 1.5 linear meters of ridge. Fertilizing is done after rain or watering.
At the end of the first year of growing season, the bulbs are not dug up. In the spring of next year, the seedlings need to be looked after especially carefully - loosen the soil, remove weeds and water, feed 3-4 times with liquid or dry fertilizers. After two years, at the end of June - beginning of July, the bulbs will reach 0.5-1 cm in diameter. They are dug up, dried and stored in a warm (18-20°C), dry, well-ventilated area. Diseased specimens are removed every week. In the fall (late September - early October) they are planted again in loose, nutritious soil. The distance between rows is 20-25 cm, between bulbs is 3-4 cm, planting depth is 3-4 cm. Planted bulbs are dug up annually. The plantings are loosened, fed, and watered as needed. Four-year-old hyacinth seedlings reach a diameter of 3 cm. In July they are dug up, dried and stored until planting. Full flowering bulbs from seedlings will grow only after 7-8 years.

Yu.I. Ryzhenkova. (Based on materials from the magazine "Khozyain".)

A few years ago they gave me a blooming hyacinth for March 8th. And then I really wanted to have such beautiful, early flowers in the garden. I had the basics about the garden. Yes, that's it How does hyacinth reproduce?, artificially - I didn’t know.

After my plant bloomed and the leaves withered, I hid it in a pot in the basement until October and forgot. And in the fall I remembered and planted it in the garden. The next year in the spring, my hyacinth blossomed, but did not produce a daughter bulb, and I so wanted to propagate it as quickly as possible.

That’s when I started looking for materials on propagating hyacinths and trying everything described. And then I found the most suitable and easiest propagation method for me: cutting the bottom of the bulb. It goes like this.

The hyacinth bulb is washed under running water, washing away all the soil. Then they are dried and treated with a fungicide to avoid infection, only then is the bulb ready for the “operation” of propagation. The knife must be sharp and disinfected, including the hands.

The bulb itself should be large, at least 6 cm in diameter, dense, without physical damage.

We cut the hyacinth bulb with 2 even intersecting cuts. A cross-shaped cut with a depth of 0.5-0.7 cm is obtained. Then the cut onion is dried under a canopy at a temperature of 21-23 degrees, so the cuts will open more strongly. Sprinkle the cuts with crushed activated carbon, or also treated with a fungicide.

In this state, store the bulb in a ventilated, dark room with a temperature of at least +21 degrees. In 2-3 months, small onions form. Without separating them from the mother bulb, we plant them in October in the garden or in a greenhouse for growing. For the winter, we mulch the plantings or simply cover them with fallen leaves.

The most suitable time for artificial propagation of hyacinth is from July 1 to July 20.

Of course, the bulb is capable of reproducing itself, but it produces very few offspring, 1-2 much less often, 3-5 baby bulbs. My bulb gave me 12 young bulbs, which in 2-3 years will delight me with their flowering.

Seed propagation of hyacinths is used for selection, developing new varieties, since hyacinths grown from seeds do not repeat the color of the mother plant.