How to make a wall from plasterboard. Constructing plasterboard walls with your own hands: step-by-step instructions, useful tips

If you need to build a wall, partition, arch or niche from plasterboard, then it is extremely important to know not only technical aspects installation, but also the characteristics of the material itself.

Peculiarities

Drywall sheet is lightweight and flexible material, with which you can quickly and easily transform an office, home or apartment. From this material you can either build a wall or build an ornate interior structure.

The structure of plasterboard sheet (GKL) fully corresponds to the name: its core is made of gypsum with mineral pigments, to which the surface layer of cardboard is attached using glue.

The advantages of the material are well known to professional finishers. They are as follows:

• allow you to create perfectly smooth surfaces vertically and horizontally;
• allow the construction of curved structures, as well as individual elements of various shapes and complexity;
• have good breathability, promote air circulation and maintain a healthy indoor microclimate;
• differ in sound insulation;
• characterized by high thermal insulation;
• made from environmentally friendly materials, do not cause allergies;
• fire-resistant, not prone to spontaneous combustion, do not support combustion and protect walls in case of fire;

• are light in weight;
• easy to install, do not require professional skills or special equipment for cladding;
• the price of gypsum board and its consumables is affordable;
• coating made from this fiber is optimal for finishing any type (painting, plastering, wallpapering);
• leave little waste.

The use of gypsum plasterboard can significantly reduce the time spent on finishing work; for example, a partition made of plasterboard can be built in a few hours, while the construction of a similar structure made of brick will require two or more days.

Like any building material, plasterboard has some disadvantages that significantly limit the scope of its use - the panels are not durable, they are destroyed by mechanical damage, and in addition, they absorb moisture.

And attaching anything to such a covering is quite problematic - only dowels and screws can hold a picture or a bulky shelf on it. But even in this case, it is undesirable to place anything heavy; this will cause the wall to collapse at any moment.

Types of structures

Using plasterboard, you can build structures that are diverse in appearance and functionality, namely:

• walls that divide the room;
• partitions of any shape;
• complex interior installations.

A plasterboard wall or partition has practical functionality or performs a purely decorative function. Using sheets, you can divide the space into zones, build niches, change the location and shape of the doorway, create a false wall, and achieve increased heat and sound insulation.

Partitions made from gypsum plasterboard are considered to be more appropriate than similar installations made from other materials: brick, wood and foam blocks. Partitions made from plasterboard fiber are produced in a short time, their cost is much lower than options made from brick or wood. The false wall remains hollow inside, which makes it possible to lay the necessary utilities and provide additional insulation.

The material is light weight and small in size, it is easy to cut, so installation can be carried out even by a person with minimal experience work with familiar tools that are found in every home.

There are a great many options for gypsum plasterboard partitions. The following are distinguished:

• by profile type: regular and arched;
• by functional purpose: temporary or capital;
• by design type: solid or with an opening for a door or window;
• by type of installation: sliding or stationary.

In addition, partitions and interior walls made of gypsum plasterboard differ in thickness and some other criteria.

Decorative plasterboard partitions, as a rule, are installed in order to hide flaws in the room and cover heating radiators. They do not require serious fasteners and are often supplemented stylish elements: lighting, mosaics, inserts from other types of materials. Usually the same elements are fixed with glue or installed on a frame. Models that have a practical purpose are mounted during internal repair work. They modify the general appearance of the room, contribute to its division into different zones and add additional functionality to finishing elements. Such walls and partitions are installed frame method and are attached to all walls in the room.

Regardless of the type of partitions, each has the same structure, namely:

• the frame is made of wood or metal profiles;
• cladding made from gypsum plasterboard sheets is used for walls or partitions;
• The wall filling is glass wool or mineral wool, which contributes to additional noise and heat insulation.

Depending on the technical characteristics There are several types of drywall:

• Wall gypsum board It is characterized by a thickness of 12.5 mm, a width of 1.2 m, and the length of the sheet can be 2.3 or 2.5 m. It does not contain any additives and is used for the installation of walls and partitions.
• Ceiling gypsum board has a thickness of 9.5 mm, a width of 1.2 m, a length of 2 or 2.5 m. This lightweight modification has found wide application in the construction of niches and door arches, as well as in ceiling cladding. It differs from the first option only in thickness.

• GKLV– This is a moisture-resistant material. Its thickness is the same as that of wall option, the width is also standard (1.2 m), and the length can be 2 or 2.3 m. A distinctive feature of the material is the introduction of moisture-resistant pigments and antifungal impregnations into the structure. Thanks to them, the material becomes hygroscopic, resists moisture and is used in rooms with high humidity (bathrooms and showers).
• GKLO- This is a sheet of plasterboard with fire-resistant parameters. It has standard parameters: thickness 12.5 mm, width 1.2 m, length 2.3 or 2.5 meters. The core of this type of fiber includes active components that are resistant to high temperatures and combustion, all of which are reinforced with special fire-retardant impregnations. The material is widely used in areas where high demands are placed. fire safety, as well as for lining fireplaces and chimneys.

It is worth paying attention to the fact that the cardboard covering of all types of gypsum boards is fire resistant. This material does not burn, and at most only chars. But the core resists flame only in GKLO.

• GKLVO is a moisture- and fire-resistant material that combines all the advantages of gypsum boards and gypsum boards.
• Arched gypsum board used to create exquisite wave-like designs and rounded interior elements. Its width complies with the standards of 1.2 m, the length is presented in one version - 3 m. But the thickness of the sheet is small - only 6.5 mm. The small thickness, as well as the introduction of fiberglass threads into the composition, results in increased flexibility and ductility of the material. Such sheets have a fairly high price, and the fact that they have to be mounted in several layers makes Finishing work more expensive.

Design

Drywall has found application in covering surfaces and creating decorative elements indoors.

Ceiling

Today, plasterboard is one of the most popular materials for cladding ceilings and constructing multi-level suspended structures. Drywall is necessary for design in the following situations:

• when the ceiling is uneven;
• if necessary, hide utility lines laid on top - pipes, massive ventilation ducts, unsightly cables and others;
• for the implementation of original interior solutions.

Ceiling finishing using gypsum plasterboard can be carried out in rooms of any type and purpose.

Walls

Almost any interior work for interior decoration are associated with the installation of drywall. It is used to create a perfectly even coating, arranging all kinds of niches and shelves, as well as constructing other elements designer design. In addition to its decorative function, gypsum boards also have a practical purpose - creates enhanced sound absorption and room insulation. Gypsum fiber sheets are mounted directly on the wall using glue or pre-installed assembled frame As a rule, sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm are used for this. Sometimes, to ensure greater structural strength, gypsum boards are laid in two or three layers.

Plasterboard lining is carried out in any room; it is most effective for cold walls facing the street, which freeze in the winter.

A plasterboard wall with thermal insulation helps to insulate the room, preventing the accumulation of dangerous condensation and the appearance of fungus. The final finish of a plasterboard wall can be anything.

Floor

Drywall can also be used to finish the floor using the dry method. Of course, for this purpose, exclusively especially durable sheets with increased abrasion resistance and resistance to mechanical damage are used. This coating is applied in two layers, then covered with any standard topcoat - parquet, linoleum, carpet, tile or laminate. The advantages of this method are obvious - the high speed of work and its cost-effectiveness.

In design, gypsum boards are often used to construct multi-level compositions, for example, podiums and ledges, which effectively mask unaesthetic pipes and other communications.

Partitions

When creating partitions, plasterboard is the number 1 material. It is most often used to divide a room and create a stylish and functional zoning space. Some structures can be built on the basis of a metal profile frame, which is fixed to the walls and ceiling, and then sheathed directly with gypsum fiber plates.

Built-in niches

Shelves with drawers in plasterboard structures look very impressive in the interior, and in homes with small children they are simply irreplaceable, because the baby will not be able to hit the sharp edges of the hanging elements. Niches are used to place small decorative elements in them that make the room cozy. These could be photographs, small souvenirs or books. The shape of such niches can be very different. As a rule, they are equipped with lighting, which makes the interior unusual and spectacular.

Tip: when installing niches Special attention You should pay attention to the weight of the products that are stored in the niche. Drywall can only support lightweight objects.

Frame

Most often, work on covering the surface with plasterboard is carried out using a frame method; for this purpose, wooden or metal sheathing is installed. It is very important to apply the correct markings, since the strength and evenness of the future false wall largely depends on the accuracy of the calculations.

To do this, first mark the place on the floor where the mounting of the supporting panel will begin, the resulting indicator is projected onto the ceiling - this is the length of the frame. The distance between the wall and the marking is its width. Markings for rack-mount metal profiles are applied perpendicular to the floor on a nearby wall. The markings are presented in the form of vertical lines with a pitch of 50–60 cm; in the future, when attaching drywall to the plank, the edges of the sheet will be located along them.

When facing walls, it is important to remember that one wall is finished first, starting with the installation of guides and ending with the installation of gypsum boards, and only then does the transition to the next surface take place.

The work is carried out in several stages, namely:

• the marks on the floor and walls need to be connected, and then guides are mounted along them;
• the installation of hangers is carried out at a distance of 60–70 cm, their center must certainly be located along the line;
• Rack-mount metal profiles are fixed into the guides so that their middle groove coincides with the upper and lower marks, and then they are connected to each other;
• The building level controls the verticality of the base and shelves, after which you need to make the final fixation with self-tapping screws.

Application area

Drywall is used for various options performances such as:

• ceiling finishing;
• installation of partitions;
• giving the walls perfect evenness;
• construction of interior compositions of various arches, shelves, plinths;
• masking unaesthetic and damaged surfaces;
• repair of old coatings;
• giving surfaces relief;
• creating multi-level structures;
• insulation, soundproofing of cavities and openings.

Drywall with increased moisture resistance is usually used for finishing bathrooms and kitchens. Fire-resistant modifications are widespread when lining communication shafts and air ducts, when telephone and Internet cables, plumbing systems and heating pipes, as well as ventilation devices. Drywall is used in both wooden and brick houses.

Drywall installation

The installation technology is quite simple. First, the sheet is cut. To do this, use a regular construction knife with a spare block of replaceable blades. The sequence of actions is described by instructions according to which the following actions must be performed:

• the sheet is laid on a clean, flat surface;
• markings are applied with a pencil;
• using a knife, cut the cardboard from the outside;

• The gypsum board is installed on the edge of the support, the sheet is carefully broken along the cut line;
• the plasterboard panel is returned to its original position, placed on its edge and bent;
• the cardboard from the inside is also cut through, but the blade should not pass through;
• the sheet turns over inner side, is again placed on the support and finally breaks.

After the sheet has been prepared, you should begin directly assembling the installation with your own hands in accordance with the step-by-step instructions.

You need to do the following:

• Guides are attached along the lines drawn on the ceiling and floor; self-tapping screws are used for this;
• a sealing tape is placed under the fixed profile;
• Planks are mounted to the profile along vertical markers, all work starts from the corners and leads to the center;
• The stiffening ribs are fixed to self-tapping screws;

• then communications, wires and cables are carried into the cavity, and they are also filled with mineral wool;
• a sheet of drywall is attached directly to the frame;

• the edges of the sheets are covered with putty or a reinforcing mesh is applied, then sanded;
• A primer is applied over the panels and the finishing is carried out.

It is worth paying attention to the following points when installing gypsum boards:

• the sheet is attached to metal profiles using 3.5x35 mm self-tapping screws;
• First of all, the edges of the panel are attached, and then central part. Self-tapping screws are placed in increments of 10–25 cm;
• the self-tapping screw is screwed in so that the caps slightly “sink” into the drywall; under no circumstances should they stick out above the surface;
• If possible, before starting cladding, you should watch a master class on how to install drywall.

Drywall is a very popular material, so it is widely available in construction stores. At the same time, it absorbs moisture well, so if it is stored improperly in a warehouse, its consumer parameters can be significantly damaged. To avoid problems and purchase the product yourself High Quality, you should adhere to the following recommendations:

• try to purchase the product only in large stores that have established themselves as a reliable and stable seller, avoid dubious points of sale;
• evaluate the conditions in which the plasterboard was stored, the cleanliness of the room and the level of humidity in it;

• Personally inspect each purchased sheet of plasterboard; there should be no chips or deformations on it. On the product of proper quality No crooked bends, dents or scratches are allowed. Any violation of integrity will entail the breaking of the entire sheet in the damaged area;
• You need to carefully monitor loading and unloading operations. Even if a sheet of drywall was purchased in perfect condition, this does not guarantee that it will arrive in the same condition. If the product was purchased and paid for, but defects were discovered later, then the warranty will not apply to it;
• If possible, you should not purchase the entire batch with the required quantity at once. To start, you should buy one sheet to test it. For example, you can cut a sheet into strips; a high-quality sheet should have a strictly uniform core, a cut without inclusions, and the knife should move evenly and smoothly when cutting;
• If you decide to buy a product from a dubious supplier, but at a very attractive price, then it is worth remembering that the stingy always pays twice. Handicraft products can not only crumble and break, but also be unsafe for health.

To protect yourself from counterfeits and defects, you should give preference to products from well-known brands.

About 70% of the Russian construction market is occupied by products of the German concern Knauf. This giant has production facilities all over the world. In Russia alone there are about 10 production plants building materials. The Knauf company is associated by many with high quality, reliability and practicality. About 10% of the market is accounted for by other European brands – Lafarge, Gyproc, Rigips.

Gyproc is a Scandinavian brand that has successfully established itself as one of the leaders in the global plasterboard market. In terms of production volumes in 2002, it took first place, leaving all its main competitors far behind. A distinctive feature of this brand of gypsum boards is its high environmental safety, confirmed by the “Leaf of Life” and “Ecomaterial” certificates. In addition, Gyproc has released drywall that is 20% lighter than products from other manufacturers. However, its price is slightly higher than the cost of Knauf products.

Lafarge is a Polish manufacturer that has established production of drywall throughout the world. Even Knauf is inferior to this concern in terms of quantity production workshops. This allows you to reduce the cost of production, which is why Lafarge plasterboard has a fairly affordable price. It was this company that, at the beginning of this century, made a real revolution in the production of drywall, bringing to the market semicircular sheets, all edges of which were covered with cardboard. This type of panel processing has become unique business card companies.

About 20% of the market belongs to domestic companies. The leading Russian manufacturers include the following:

• "Gypsum" (Volgograd)– produces drywall under the famous Volma brand. The products of this brand are distinguished by excellent performance characteristics and reasonable prices.
• Gifas (Sverdlovsk)– produces products of exceptionally high quality, which in terms of performance parameters are not inferior even to popular European brands.

• Abdullingips (Kazan)– has established the production of conventional gypsum boards and gypsum boards, which are distinguished by their low price compared to other Russian analogues.
• "Golden Group Gips" (Tolyatti)– produces sheets of plasterboard using equipment from the French concern Lafarge. The products are distinguished by exceptional quality and competitive prices.

Making a plasterboard wall with your own hands is simple; even an amateur can easily do it. Often, when remodeling an apartment or buying a new home, it becomes necessary to change the designs of plasterboard walls or build new partitions. Not so long ago, such a structure could only be built from wood or brick. Now these expensive materials have been replaced by drywall, which is easy to install, inexpensive and sold in all hardware stores.

Decoration and design of the TV wall

Design and decoration of plasterboard walls

Of course, the material has disadvantages, one of them is the fragility of the material, for example, in order to, it is necessary to determine at the construction stage where the hanging objects will be placed and install a mortgage.

Scheme for installing heavy objects on drywall But by following the instructions, you can make any built-in structure in the form Swedish wall or .
The second disadvantage is intolerance to long contact with water; drywall can become wet and deformed.

Wall construction preparatory stage

Before you build a decorative plasterboard wall, you need to make some preparations.

Option for the design and design of a wall for a TV

Preparing the material

From the material we will need:

After assembling the plasterboard wall, the surface needs to be finished, so you will need:

An example of finishing a plasterboard wall

Tools

The tools we need are available in almost every home:

At this point, the preparation of the tool and material is completed, you can proceed to the next stage.

Frame diagram

It is impossible to complete the work of assembling the frame without a drawing.

The drawing must be completed before the material is purchased, since thanks to it it can be calculated very accurately. The designs of plasterboard walls in the bedroom are different and you can create your own unusual project.

To create a drawing you do not need to be an artist; it is enough to schematically draw the main elements of the structure.

Scheme of the structure of a plasterboard wall frame
Determine where they will be, if they are supposed to be installed in the wall. Determine which distance from each other. If reinforcement of the structure is required, the profiles will be spaced in increments of 40 cm.

An example of a plasterboard wall design in a bedroom








As soon as the drawing is ready, we transfer the markings to the surface, this should be done as follows:

Even a non-professional can make partitions from plasterboard with his own hands. It can be erected in as soon as possible and with minimal costs. Drywall partitions do not have to be just square or rectangular: they can be semicircular, radius or arched.

To work you will need:
1. Guide (PN) and rack (PS) profiles for creating a frame. They must be equal in width: the rack profile must easily fit into the groove of the guide.
2. Construction level.
3. Square.
4. Roulette.
5. Plumb.
6. Drywall. Since the partition is sheathed on both sides, it will require 2 times the required area.
7. Soundproofing materials: mineral wool, polystyrene foam, etc.
8. Fasteners: dowels and screws.
9. Screwdriver.
10. Metal scissors for cutting aluminum guides.
11. A sharp knife for cutting drywall.

Guide and rack profiles

Frame installation

1. Using a square and tape measure, mark on the floor the place where the partition will be mounted. You can transfer this line to the ceiling using a plumb line. The partition must be installed exactly at an angle of 90° with respect to the walls.

Transferring markup

2. It is fixed to the floor and ceiling using dowel nails. guide profile(it is marked with the letters UW). For the construction of a thin partition, a width of 50 mm is sufficient. When laying soundproofing materials inside the partition, the UW100 profile should be used, where 100 is the width in millimeters.

Attaching the profile to the ceiling

Attaching the sealing self-adhesive tape

3. Rack profile installed in guide grooves in increments of 60 cm. This is done using metal screws. In this case, the racks should be positioned so that the edges of the drywall sheets are exactly to the center of the profile. The outer racks are secured first.

Attaching the rack profile

4. If necessary, you can lay inside the partition electrical wiring. It is laid horizontally at the frame assembly stage in a special non-flammable corrugation. Electrical wiring is mounted in special technological holes in the profile.

Electrical wiring

Doorway arrangement

1. Mount vertically in the intended location along the width of the opening. two rack profiles. The third profile is attached from above. We will tell you below how to arrange an arched opening or an opening of any arbitrary curved shape.

2. You can strengthen the doorway using a wooden beam or two profiles connected to each other.

To strengthen the doorway, you can connect the rack and guide profiles

Fastening drywall

1. The partition is covered with plasterboard on both sides.

2. Its sheets are attached to the frame with in steps of 25 cm so that their edges are exactly in the center of the rack profile. In this case, the head of the screw for metal should be slightly buried in the sheet so that it can be hidden later under the putty.

3. Do not screw screws into the corners of the sheet - it will break. For fastening, step back 5 cm from the edge.

Fastening drywall

4. Drywall is mounted staggered (in a checkerboard pattern) so that the joints of the sheets fall on the center of the sheet of the previous row.

Laying order of sheets

5. If sound insulation is necessary, mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or any other material is laid between the profile posts similar material. It is installed after one of the sides is already covered with plasterboard.

Location of the sound insulation layer

Drywall cutting

1. Mark the cut location on the sheet with a pencil. The mark from a ballpoint paste or felt-tip pen may be visible through the putty, so you should not use them.

2. Drywall consists of three layers: two layers of cardboard and a gypsum core. Initially follows with a sharp knife cut through one side of the cardboard and gypsum core. To do this, the sheet is laid on a flat surface, a metal ruler is applied to the cut line, and an incision is made along it. To cut the core, a knife is drawn along the cut line several times.

Cutting the first layer of cardboard

3. Then bend the cut area and break the gypsum core by lightly tapping along the cut line.

In order to break off the core, the sheet is slightly bent

Cutting through the second layer of cardboard

5. To remove defects, the cut site is processed sandpaper or rasp.

Processing cut edges

Putty

1. The joints of the sheets and the recesses of the screws are puttied using gypsum, polymer or cement putty . If, when putting putty, the spatula clings to the self-tapping screw, it should be pushed into the sheet a little deeper.

Plasterboard putty

2. To strengthen the joints of the sheets, it is laid reinforcing self-adhesive mesh. Before laying it, the seam should be filled with putty, and only then the mesh should be glued. External corners are finished profile corners or corners with reinforcing mesh.

3. If a plasterboard wall will be wallpapered or tiled, it is not necessary to use reinforcing mesh. It is only required when preparing walls for plastering or painting.

Laying reinforcing mesh along the seams

Drywall bending

When arranging semicircular, radius or arched partitions the drywall needs to be bent. This can be done in two ways: dry and wet.

1. When dry bending Vertical cuts are made on one side of the sheet. You can make them quickly using a grinder. Since this generates a lot of gypsum dust, it is better to carry out work outside.

2. Bending is performed across the fibers, that is, the sheets are bent by lenght.

Dry bending

3. Wet bending. To allow moisture to penetrate deep into the sheet, it should be rolled before wetting. needle roller.

Roller rolling

5. A damp sheet of drywall is laid to dry on a prepared template of the desired shape and securely fixed.

Wet bending

Profile bending

For installation of curved structures you can purchase arched profile or make it yourself. To do this, they are made on both sides cuts every 5-15 cm[b]. The frequency of their location depends on the bending angle: the larger it is, the more often notches should be applied. To make the transition smooth, their frequency must be the same.

Arched profile

You can make an arched profile yourself using cuts

Arch profile fastening

Video: DIY plasterboard partitions

Technology for building partitions from plasterboard with your own hands

Making partitions from plasterboard is one of the ways to cheaply and very quickly fence off a space, make a separate room, or hide plumbing and ventilation elements in the middle of the room. Creating a drywall partition requires some effort, but it will not require strenuous physical work.

Partition design

The design of the partition consists of three main elements:

• frame;
• facing sheets;
• sound insulator or insulation.

Scheme of a plasterboard partition

The frame of a plasterboard partition can be made from metal profile, which occurs most often. Wood is the most rare due to its drying out, and as a result, deformation of the entire structure. And combined. The main frame is made of a metal profile, and wooden blocks are inserted to create the ability to attach heavy interior elements to the wall, household appliances and other components.

The production of partitions begins with the choice of material.

Advantages of using metal profiles?

The metal profile can be of any size, which makes it possible to build complex transitions and all kinds of niches from it. Moreover, he is quite lightweight material, the construction of which is strong and durable. The main advantage of a metal profile is that it can be bent during the production of curved structures.

Metal profile frame

Having decided on the type of material used, it is necessary to solve the following questions:

1. What shape should the structure be?
2. Will heat – or sound – insulation be installed?
3. Will it hide pipes, ventilation ducts, etc.?

We first drew a design for the partition on a piece of paper. We decided on the location of doors, niches and other things. If the partition needs to hide plumbing elements, electrical wiring or something else, then the wall must be made of a thick profile (100 mm).

Next, you need to start applying markings to the walls and floor. To do this, use a plumb line and a construction cord. Using a level from the floor, the markings are transferred to the walls, and using a plumb line to the ceiling.

Do-it-yourself production of plasterboard partitions is carried out using two types of profiles:

1. UW (guide).
2. CW (rackmount).

Types of metal profiles

Accordingly, the rack is used to make vertical structural elements, the guide is used in the horizontal parts of the structure. In this case, the guide profile can be of the following sizes: 40x50, 40x75, 40x100 mm. Rack – 50x50, 50x75, 50x100 mm.

The following fastening components are required to build the partition from fasteners and hardware:

1. Metal screws for fastening the profile together. Unlike wood screws, they have a smaller thread pitch, which allows them to be clamped into a metal sheet much more tightly and their heads are flat on the bottom and slightly spherical on top. Rivets can be used instead. It is ideal to use a profile cutter for fastening.
2. Metal screws for attaching plasterboard sheets to the profile. They are usually black, also with fine carvings, but with a different wedge-shaped cap. This allows it to sink slightly into the sheet of cardboard. The calculator will help you calculate required quantity self-tapping screws
3. Dowel-nails. A self-tapping screw in a plastic cage is used to fasten a metal profile to a wall if it is made of brick, ASG blocks, or monolith.

If the walls are built of wood, then wood screws will help here. Their length is selected based on the weight of the future partition and the load imposed on it.

Installation of the structure

Having understood the types of materials and purchased all the necessary components, you can begin installing the first structural elements.

The first step is to attach the guide profile to the floor. If the floor will not rise in the future, then it is necessary to leave space for doors. The distance is selected based on the width of the box with a small margin of 2 cm at the edges to fill the voids with foam. It will not only hold the door frame together, but will also provide shock absorption for the door rather than the entire wall.

The guide profile is attached to the side walls and ceiling with a fastening pitch of no more than 50 cm. If necessary, it can be reduced, but this one is recommended.

Types of partitions depending on design:

The first type is used in lighter partitions where additional strength and sound insulation are not required. It uses only one layer of drywall on both sides. The second type is a more massive structure, respectively, and heavier due to the fastening of two layers of plasterboard sheets on both sides.

After you have decided on the type of partition, its thickness and attached the guide profile, you need to begin installing the rack elements. They are installed in guide trays and positioned strictly vertically. In this case, the stand is cut taking into account the distance from the lower profile to the upper one, minus 1 cm. It is recommended to place wooden blocks along the thickness of the profile near the doorway, and it is secured using wood screws. The recommended distance between the vertical structural elements of a plasterboard partition is 60 cm. If necessary, it can be reduced, but not increased.

There are two profile installation technologies. The first, called American, is to position the groove towards the far wall. The second technology, which was developed by German builders, consists of positioning the groove in the direction of installation.

Do-it-yourself methods for attaching guides and rack profiles

There are several ways to fasten guides and rack elements:

1. T-shaped connection.
2. Connection in cross structural elements using a spider.

Types of metal profile fasteners

A simple T-shaped connection consists of cutting the two sides of the profile and bending the resulting petals 90 0 to the sides. With their help, the two elements will then be fastened. This type of connection can be used in both cross and end structural members.

The second type of connection is used primarily in cross-joining profiles. Fastening element is a cross-shaped plate with many petals and perforated holes designed to simplify the installation of the structure. There are also many other components on sale for a wide variety of connections and connections, even at an angle of 45 0.

Once the structure is ready, you can begin fastening the gypsum boards.

If the partition must be light, then cover one layer of cardboard, otherwise the second layer is attached directly through the first into the metal profile. In this case, the fastening distance of the first sheet can be increased from 50 to 75 cm. The second layer is attached at the recommended distance, no more than 50 cm. The sheets should be laid with 50% overlap of the top and bottom.

GKL cladding

After the partition on one side is completely covered with gypsum board, it is necessary to begin heat and sound insulation. It can be polystyrene foam, mineral wool. The degree of noise reduction of the wall depends on the density of the internal space. After laying communications, wiring and plumbing, and installing sound insulation, you can begin installing gypsum boards on the second side of the partition according to the same principle.

Finishing a plasterboard partition

Finishing all plasterboard structures carried out using the same technology:

1. If wallpaper is to be glued, then it is enough to glue the joints of the plasterboard covering with a reinforcing mesh and use a spatula to cover the dimples formed when tightening the screws.
2. If the wall is to be painted, it is necessary to putty over the entire surface of the partition, followed by stripping and priming.

Manufacturing partitions from plasterboard will become excellent option, because in the end you always get a perfectly flat and smooth wall.

Online calculator, calculation of material for making plasterboard partitions

How to make a plasterboard wall with your own hands

When remodeling an apartment or private house, the need arises to create additional partitions that divide the room into separate zones or rooms as planned by the designer. Previously, such structures were built from brick or wood, but in Lately prefer drywall. This available material has a lot of advantages, and even a novice craftsman with minimal construction skills can make a partition from plasterboard.

Advantages of using drywall when creating partitions

What are the advantages of using gypsum plasterboard when constructing additional walls indoors?

• The structure made from it is much lighter than from brick or concrete, which allows minimizing the load on the floors. This is quite relevant for premises in apartment buildings.
• In the cavities of the plasterboard partition, you can additionally place a layer of sound insulation or insulation, as well as extend electrical wiring. Unlike stone walls, this can be done without the dusty and labor-intensive gating operation.

Drywall itself has good soundproofing properties, so even without additional materials, such a wall will prevent the spread of sound.

• GKL is environmentally friendly and fireproof.
• The resulting plane, after minimal processing, is ready for further finishing. The sheets form smooth surface, which can be painted, wallpapered, covered decorative plaster or even ceramic tiles.
• Easy to assemble. Almost anyone can install a plasterboard partition with their own hands, following simple step-by-step instructions. It does not require specialized skills or expensive professional tools.
• Drywall allows you to easily realize various design ideas: you can design a partition in the form of an arch, make a niche for a TV or other household appliances, build built-in shelves and much more.

Of course, there are also disadvantages. The main thing is the relative fragility of drywall: such interior partition It is much easier to damage than, for example, brick. In addition, even moisture-resistant plasterboard does not tolerate prolonged exposure to conditions of excess humidity.

Before assembling the structure from plasterboard, you will have to decide on the location of all the interior parts on the future wall: their attachment points need to be strengthened at the stage of assembling the frame.

Necessary materials

First of all, you will need the drywall itself. The partition, of course, is not a load-bearing wall, but must have a certain strength. Therefore, sheets are taken with a thickness of at least 12.5 mm. Moisture-resistant and fire-resistant varieties of this material are used only when necessary.

A galvanized metal profile is ideal for forming the frame. Most partitions will require two types:

The guides have a standard length of 3 m. The size of the required rack profiles is selected based on the height of the room where the partition is being erected.

Horizontal lintels, which give rigidity to the structure and form doorways, are also made from a rack profile. Therefore, the exact amount of this material is calculated only after compiling detailed diagram frame taking into account the required reserve.

In addition to the plasterboard and profile, for work you will need:

• Dowel-nails for attaching guides to the walls, ceiling and floor of the room. IN wooden room they are replaced by wood screws.
• Sealing tape to improve sound insulation. It is glued to the back side of metal profiles and prevents the transmission of sound vibrations from the main walls to the frame.
• Beam for strengthening the doorway. In size, it should fit tightly inside the rack profile - this will facilitate its installation.

Professionals advise fastening the profiles together using a cutter. But this tool is still not widely used, so small metal screws, popularly called “fleas” or “bugs,” are more often used.

Construction of plasterboard walls in an apartment: interior and full walls

When arranging your home, it often becomes necessary to build new partitions and interior walls. This could be a full-scale redevelopment, or a desire to split an existing room into two parts or to form rooms in a new building, which is made into a single space. For the construction of new internal partitions plasterboard and metal profiles are used. This material is so convenient and easy to use that it is possible to build plasterboard walls with your own hands without even resorting to anyone’s help. However, despite the above statement, in the process of forming walls from gypsum plasterboard there are many nuances that should be taken into account. This is the only way to achieve a reliable and durable design.

Materials for work

First, let's decide what we need to build a wall from materials and what tools we need to work with.

To ensure the strength and correct configuration of the wall, a frame should be initially erected. It is made of a metal profile, which is specially designed for drywall and a number of accessories for its installation.

The profile of two main standard sizes is mainly used:

• D – to form the plane on which the drywall (smaller) will be fixed;
• W – for building a general wall frame (larger).

In addition, for each standard size there are profile options such as support (C) and guide (U). The guide option is a simpler version of a U-shaped profile with smooth walls; a support profile is inserted into it at the end. The support profile, in addition to the U-shape, has a special ribbing made by pressing to obtain greater bending rigidity.

1. CD - size 60*27 mm main load-bearing element of the frame;
2. UD - size 28*27 mm guide for fixing the CD profile;
3. CW - size 50*50, 50*75, 50*100 mm rack profile for forming a wall frame;
4. UW - size 50*40, 75*40, 100*40 mm guide for CW profile.
5. In addition, there is a UA profile, which is a version of the CW profile with a thicker wall and reinforced.

To build a simple partition with a width of 50, 75, 100 mm, only CW and UW profiles are used. For more wide walls When laying communications, the CD and UD profiles are used, and two parallel guides are mounted on each side of the wall at the required distance.

To secure the profile to the frame you will need a straight hanger and a universal connector (crab). You can do without the latter. The elements must be twisted using flea screws with a “drill” tip and self-tapping screws for fastening drywall to metal with a countersunk head and a piercing tip (3.5x35 mm). In the course of describing the technology for constructing a plasterboard wall, it will become clear how many screws of each type are needed. To secure the entire frame to the main walls, you will need plastic dowels with impact screws.

Plasterboard sheets for wall construction are selected with a thickness of 12.5 mm, always with a wide chamfer on the sides. If the wall is formed in the kitchen or bathroom, then moisture-resistant gypsum board is selected. You can distinguish them by color, because the moisture-resistant sheet is green, the regular one is gray.

As a result, you will need to build a wall:

plasterboard, CD, UD, CW, UW profile, wooden beam or AU profile, screws, dowels, sealing tape, mineral wool, metal corner.

If you do not fully understand the specifics of the types of profiles, read about their designations and differences at the link.

Tools

You will need the following set of tools and measuring instruments:

1. roulette;
2. level (80cm, 120cm), rule;
3. plumb line;
4. fishing line, rope;
5. screwdriver or drill with reverse;
6. perforator;
7. metal scissors;
8. construction knife;
9. drywall float.

Beginning the formation of a plasterboard wall frame

So, with the assignment of profiles and the choice of tools completed, you can begin planning and placing the future wall. The floor and adjacent walls on which the new wall will be fixed must be at the stage immediately before finishing, that is, the floor is level with a screed, the walls are plastered. For example, consider the formation of a wall from the UW, CW profile. On the floor we mark the placement of the future wall. The following points are taken into account:

• Almost nowhere can you find perfectly right angles between walls in rooms. This is especially true for old buildings. The distance between them is different ends may differ by several centimeters. When marking a new plasterboard wall, you should take this into account and refer not to one wall, but to both, which run parallel. In this case, the distances are averaged. This way you can avoid the visual curvature of the resulting room.
• If, in addition to the construction of the wall, all walls are sheathed with plasterboard, then first the frame or at least the marking of the sheathing is laid out so as to create the most right angles, and after that you can only begin to build the wall.
• When outlining the first line of the wall, it is taken into account that the guide profile will be aligned along it, and not the resulting wall. The thickness of the plasterboard, a layer of putty and finishing will be added to this mark.

Having decided on the first line on the floor, you can transfer it to the ceiling and walls. A plumb line is used for this. If you can use a laser level, this will greatly simplify the task.

Important: All profiles that are attached directly to the floor, ceiling and existing walls, are mounted using a sealing tape between it and the supporting surface. The first to be fixed are the UW profile guides to the floor and ceiling. They are secured with dowels and impact screws every half meter and along the edges.

At the edges of the guides are attached support posts from CW profile. Also, racks are installed in places where a door or window opening will be formed, which are necessary during construction interior wall from plasterboard. It is best to attach the profiles first to the bottom rail. Then it is threaded into the upper guide and installed strictly vertically in level. Only after this is it fixed to the upper guide. When positioning these profiles, allowance is made for covering strips of plasterboard over the profile. The profiles are installed with the front side facing into the opening. The racks are secured to the guides using flea screws.

The structure of a plasterboard partition.

The supporting profiles along the perimeter of door and window openings must be reinforced with wooden blocks, which are inserted inside the profile and secured with self-tapping screws. The bar is selected according to the width of the profile. If an AU profile is used, then you can do without bars.

The next step begins the installation of vertical CW support profiles along the entire length of the frame. The first profile from the adjacent wall is installed at a distance of 550 mm, all subsequent ones are strictly at a distance of 600 mm from each other, measuring the distance from the middle of each profile. The vertical installation of the profiles must be checked.

In order to mark the top of the doorway and the horizontal edges of the window openings, the same UW guide profile is used. A piece of profile is cut 30 cm larger than the width of the opening. On the front side, on the bend of the side bends of the profile, marks are placed at a distance of 15 cm from each edge. The distance between the marks is equal to the width of the opening. The profile sides are cut at an angle of 45 degrees, starting from the edge of the profile to the mark and to the base of the profile. After this, the edges of the profile are bent, and a U-shaped structure is obtained.

The resulting blank is placed with its bent edges onto the posts on the sides of the opening and raised to the required height. It is secured using self-tapping screws, which screw the edges of the profile to the posts. The resulting oblique ears, which formed on the main horizontal part of the workpiece, are also screwed on. The perimeter of window openings is formed in the same way.

This completes the formation of the frame. You can proceed to the process of fixing the drywall sheets. The sheet sizes are standardized: 1200x2000 mm, 1200x2500 or 1200x3000 mm. In most cases, ceilings in residential areas are higher and are at least 2.75 m, so one sheet of height may not be enough. Small strips of drywall will need to be added.

The first sheet that will be installed close to the edge, most often to the adjacent wall, must be removed from the side chamfer. To do this, a strip 50 mm wide is cut along its entire length on one side.

How to cut drywall?

An ordinary construction knife with replaceable blades is used for this. The sheet must be placed on a flat, hard surface. Mark the cut line with a pencil and make an incision with a knife. upper layer cardboard After this, the sheet is shifted along the cut line to the edge of the support and carefully broken. Having returned the sheet to its original position, it turns on its edge and bends. The cardboard is also cut on the second side, but not all the way through. By turning the sheet over and moving it to the edge of the support, you can finally chip it off.

To provide a gap that can be properly sealed later with putty, a bevel is formed on the cut edge of the sheet with an inclination of 22.5 degrees or close to it. A special plasterboard plane is used for this. Also, a chamfer is made on the edge of the sheet that will be adjacent to the gypsum board strip located above or below the sheet.

Fastening drywall sheets

The sheet should be secured to the metal frame using 3.5x35 mm self-tapping screws. The edges of the sheet are secured first, followed by the edges and the midline. For this purpose, there is a special marking marking the position of the screws every 250 mm. The distance between the screws can vary from 10 to 25 cm, but no more. The screws are screwed in so that the caps go slightly deeper into the plasterboard and do not stick out above the wall level.

Having secured the first sheet, the remaining distance to the ceiling is measured and the corresponding piece of plasterboard is cut off. A chamfer is also formed on it on the sides where it will be docked to the bottom or top sheet and to the ceiling.

Subsequent sheets are installed entirely without chamfering and in a checkerboard pattern. That is, after the first row, a whole sheet of drywall is installed under the ceiling, and the missing part is installed below. Thus, one side of the wall is sheathed.

Laying out wiring and installing sockets and switches

Before covering the second side, you can lay the wires if necessary. To pass through the rack profiles, holes of 35 mm in size are made in them, strictly in the middle of the profile at the required height. It is advisable that the edges of the hole be concave to one side and bent so as not to subsequently damage the wires. The wires are mounted in accordance with the requirements in a corrugated pipe.

Soundproofing plasterboard walls

Mineral wool is used for this. This will make the plasterboard wall less transparent to sound, because without soundproofing all the noise from one room will be heard in another. Easier to use roll version of this material with a width of 600 or 1200 mm. The second option is cut in half lengthwise. The cotton wool is placed tightly between the rack profiles without gaps. There is no need to secure it further. For reliability, you can form horizontal lintels from wooden beams along the width of the wall, on which mineral wool of a shorter length than the height of the ceilings will rest. This method is suitable for places where there is a risk of moisture getting inside the wall. However, sufficient ventilation of the interior must also be ensured.

Completing the construction of a plasterboard wall

After this, you can sheathe the second side of the wall. After the second side of the wall is sheathed, you can begin filling all the end surfaces.

Between the sheets of plasterboard there is a distance of 100 mm formed by chamfers, which is slightly recessed. The joints are glued with a mounting mesh and compared with the general level of the wall using starting putty. Finishing putty is applied to all places where screws are installed or to the entire surface, especially if the wall will subsequently be painted or pasted over. thin wallpaper. Using abrasive mesh and a trowel, the putty layer is finally leveled. After this, the wall is ready for cladding with any suitable material.

Video: making walls from plasterboard with your own hands

Plasterboard partitions photo, how to make interior plasterboard partitions with your own hands, design, assembly and installation

Is it magic to get additional living space without actually increasing the area of ​​your apartment? Maybe, but this magic is within the power of every person who has the slightest knowledge of construction and repair skills. Plasterboard partitions help to separate a small office, bedroom or children's room in a limited space.
This element of apartment design is in great demand among designers today, and all thanks to its ease of use and wide creative possibilities. Feel yourself in the role of a novice creator, and at the same time expand the capabilities of the living space you use.

Plasterboard partitions, plasterboard partitions in the interior photo

Interior partitions made of plasterboard are not only fashionable, but also incredibly convenient designs that allow you to solve the problem of personal space for family members and create a favorable atmosphere in the apartment. Among other, more practical advantages of gypsum plasterboard walls:
Environmental friendliness. Decorative partitions made of plasterboard meet all environmental safety requirements, and therefore can even be used in decorating the interior of a children's room.

1. Practicality. A do-it-yourself plasterboard partition can be erected very quickly, and during repairs there is not a lot of debris generated. This significantly saves time on repairs and the nerves of the housewife, who has to clean the room after the construction of the structure.
2. Economical. The building material is quite inexpensive, and the fittings are also affordable. Thanks to this, the installation of plasterboard partitions is affordable for families with modest incomes.
3. Light weight. The relatively small weight of the structure (25-50 kg/m2) does not load the load-bearing slabs in the apartment, and therefore does not disrupt utility lines apartment building. Due to this, by the way, before the construction of the wall there is no need to go to the authorities and coordinate the alteration.
4. Perfect flatness of surfaces. There’s not even anything to comment on here. A self-built plasterboard partition on both sides forms perfectly flat surfaces, ready for finishing.

Drywall is a malleable material, thanks to which any design ideas can be realized. If you look at the photo of plasterboard partitions, you will see that the designers’ imagination is not limited to a simple blank wall. From gypsum plasterboard you can create partitions of almost any shape and configuration, open and closed, blind and with openings (or stained glass), simple and figured, even backlit. Of course, all this requires some effort, but the result has not disappointed anyone yet. Try to zone a room with drywall, and we will help you with this.

The construction of plasterboard walls quite often becomes the only option for remodeling a room. In addition, the material is used to level walls and implement many architectural compositions.

Walls and partitions made of plasterboard have an undeniable advantage - they are easy to build yourself. This does not require the help of highly qualified specialists or the purchase of expensive equipment. It is enough to know the installation technology and observe some nuances when working with hyposacrite sheets.

Advantages and disadvantages of plasterboard walls

Gypsum craton is a lightweight, flexible and easy-to-work material that can easily transform a room and add uniqueness to the interior of a house or apartment. From plasterboard you can make a wall dividing a room, install a partition of an unimaginable shape, or build a complex decorative structure.

A plasterboard wall has the following structure:

Installing plasterboard walls has a number of advantages:

Options for arranging plasterboard walls: photo

The disadvantages of plasterboard walls include:

• with prolonged exposure to humidity, plasterboard sheets may “swell” and lose their original appearance;
• low mechanical strength plasterboard (places for hanging cornices, lighting fixtures, paintings must be reinforced with embedded elements);
• You cannot install heavy objects on a plasterboard wall.

The durability and strength of a plasterboard structure largely depends on the quality of the building material and its compliance operational characteristics premises.

Drywall is based on a gypsum core, covered on both sides with multi-layer cardboard. Depending on the characteristics of the constituent elements, plasterboard sheets (GKL) are divided into the following main categories:

The thickness of plasterboard is selected depending on its application:

• for wall cladding, wall gypsum board with a thickness of 12.5 mm is suitable;
• for the ceiling - ceiling gypsum board 9.5 mm;
• to create shaped structures - arched gypsum board 7.5-8 mm.

Before purchasing, drywall must be inspected for defects - there should be no damaged cardboard or bent core

DIY plasterboard wall installation

The base of a plasterboard wall can be a wooden sheathing or a metal frame. Wooden structures are made from coniferous species wood, and metal ones - from galvanized profiles.

Usage wooden sheathing permissible only in a dry and warm room, in which significant temperature changes are excluded

Let's consider the technology of installing a gypsum plasterboard wall with metal frame, because this type designs - more reliable and easy to install.

Required materials and tools

The metal profile for creating sheathing for plasterboard walls is available in two sizes:

• W - intended for the construction of a general wall frame (larger profile);
• D - used for arranging a plane with subsequent fastening of drywall.

Each standard size has a guide (U) and support (C) profile.

The guide profile (UD, UW) is U-shaped with smooth walls, the support profile (CD, CW) also has U-shape, its walls are ribbed.

To create a partition with a width of 50-100 mm, UW (50*40, 75*40 or 100*40 mm) and CW (50*50, 50*75 or 50*100 mm) profiles are used. For walls of greater thickness, with the need to lay communications, install two guides on each side of the CD wall (60*27 mm) and install battens from the UD profile (28*27 mm)

In addition to profiles and sheets of drywall you will need:

To work you will need the following tools:

• hammer drill with concrete drill (6 mm);
• a drill with reverse or a screwdriver with an RN2 bit and a magnetic attachment;
• metal scissors;
• grinder with iron disc;
• a hacksaw, a plane, a knife for stripping the edges of a sheet or a grater for drywall;
• level (120 cm, 80 cm);
• rule;
• rope, fishing line;
• plumb line

Preparatory work

Before making a plasterboard wall, you need to carry out preparatory work:

Formation of a metal frame

Let's look at the step-by-step creation of a frame for a plasterboard wall up to 100 mm thick:

Fastening drywall sheets

Plasterboard sheets have standard sizes: 1200*2000 mm, 1200*2500 mm, 1200*3000 mm. Most often, ceilings in rooms have a height of 2.75 m or more, so one sheet may not be enough and you will have to add strips of gypsum plasterboard.

You can use a regular construction knife to cut drywall.

Drywall cutting occurs in the following sequence:

1. Place the sheet on a hard, flat surface.
2. Mark the cutting line with a pencil.
3. Carefully cut the top layer of cardboard with a knife.
4. Place the sheet on the edge of the support up to the cut line and break it.
5. Turn the sheet over and cut a layer of cardboard on the other side.
6. Move the gypsum board to the edge of the support and finally chop it off.

The cut edge of the sheet should have a beveled angle of approximately 22° - this will improve the quality of the finishing of the future wall

The procedure for attaching drywall to the wall:

Laying wiring, installing switches and sockets

If there is a need to run electrical or telephone wires in the wall, this must be done before covering the second side of the wall with plasterboard.

To conduct wires in vertical profiles, holes with a diameter of 35 mm are made at the required height. The electrical wiring must be placed in corrugated pipes, and then led into the wall.

Holes for installing sockets and switches must be provided in advance in the plasterboard sheets.

The final stage of wall construction

It is advisable to soundproof plasterboard walls. For this purpose, rolled mineral wool with a thickness of 600 or 1200 mm (depending on the width of the wall) is suitable. The cotton wool must be placed tightly between the vertical profiles; there is no need to further secure the material.

After communications and soundproofing of the wall, the structure can be sheathed with plasterboard on the second side.

Treatment finished wall from gypsum board:

• Glue the joints between the sheets with sickle mesh.
• Treat the wall with starting putty.
• Treat the wall finishing putty, aligning all fastening points of screws.
• Rub the putty layer with an abrasive mesh.
• Now you can apply any finish to the wall - paint, wallpaper or lay ceramic tiles.

Installation of a plasterboard wall: video

Leveling a wall with plasterboard using a frameless method

Drywall is very often used to level walls. In this case, two main methods are used:

• GKL is attached to the lathing (the technology is similar to the construction of plasterboard walls);
• The gypsum board is glued directly to the wall (the method is suitable for more or less even walls).

Let's consider the second option - a frameless method of finishing plasterboard walls. In this case, installation of drywall on the wall is done using special Perlfix glue.

If the wall is loaded additional structures(lamps, shelves, paintings), then glue must be applied over the entire area of ​​the sheet

As you can see, working with drywall does not pose any particular difficulties, and even construction beginners can build a partition from gypsum plasterboard or level a wall.

Currently, drywall has become one of the most common building materials. It is used both in private and industrial construction. In the process of finishing interior spaces The question often arises of how to make a plasterboard wall with your own hands.

The ease of processing plasterboard allows its use in different options interior It allows you to diversify the ceiling and walls in the house. Zoning a room is easy to do if you decide how to make a plasterboard wall.

Plasterboard wall construction

When used indoors, drywall has a number of advantages. The sheets are very easy to process - you can cut them into any shape. The sheets are secured using almost any standard method - glue, mastic, screws, etc. The material is quite light in weight. After installation, drywall creates the impression of solidity. Its surface is easy to decorate.

Usually it is interior and located indoors. The design of such a wall includes a frame; plasterboard sheathing in which a doorway or simply an opening for passage is made; cladding and decorative coating.

The simplest frame can be made of wooden beams required thickness. Recently, frames made of metal profiles have become more widely used. Ceiling and partition profiles that have a U-shape are produced especially for plasterboard. Partition profiles are divided into guides and racks.

PN type guide profiles are available in four sizes - 50x40, 65x40, 75x40 and 100x50 mm. The standard length is 3 m. Rack profiles are produced by the PS brand and also have four sizes - 50x50, 65x50, 75x50 and 100x50 mm. The width of the PS and PN profiles must match. Rack profiles are sold in lengths of 3, 3.5 and 4 m.

The wall sheathing can be made of one or more sheets of plasterboard. A single-layer septum is done extremely rarely. A two-layer wall means that filler can be laid between the sheathing sheets (sound insulation, thermal insulation, etc.). IN wall cladding an opening for passage is made. If necessary, plasterboard wall a window opening is being made.

Cladding a plasterboard wall includes filling the surface and applying decorative coatings. In addition, the ends of the cladding in the openings are processed and decorated.

Has material and significant shortcomings, which should be taken into account when working with it. First of all, this is low resistance to impact loads and bending. The edges of the sheet (especially the corners) are easily damaged when in contact with hard objects. The material requires careful transportation.

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Preparing to make a wall

The site floor, ceiling and walls should have final plastering. It is necessary to check the evenness of the surface. If there are defects, they must be eliminated (bulges removed, holes filled). The verticality of the walls is checked with a plumb line.

Marking the wall to be installed begins with the side walls of the room. The required distance is measured from the wall with the window and marked below on the wall. Through the mark perpendicular to the floor, a line is drawn along the side wall to the ceiling. Markings are applied similarly on the opposite side wall. The lines are connected by markings along the ceiling and floor. This line will be the inner boundary of the wall being installed.

Profiles are laid out on the floor in a horizontal position according to the dimensions of the future frame. The dimensions of the drywall are laid out and marked along the laid frame. The openings are marked.

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Installing a Wall Frame

Installation of a frame made of metal profiles begins with the installation of a guide profile on the ceiling. The profile is fastened along the marked line using dowels. To do this, holes are drilled in the profile every 40-50 cm and holes in the ceiling are marked through them. Using a puncher, holes are punched in the ceiling according to the marks. Dowels are inserted. The guide profile is secured with screws. The surface of the profile adjacent to the ceiling is glued sealing tape before fastening. The guide profile is fixed to the floor in the same way, but taking into account the doorway. The horizontal installation of the guide profiles is checked with a level.

After fixing the guides, the rack profiles are installed according to the markings on the side walls. Their fastening is carried out using anchors in the same way as fastening guide profiles. Verticality is checked with a plumb line. If it is necessary to straighten the verticality, thin spacers are placed.

Then vertical supports from rack profiles are installed. The first profile is fixed at a distance of 55 cm from the profiles fixed to the wall; subsequent supports are installed at a distance of 60 cm from each other (the distance is measured to the center of the profile). They are attached to the guide profiles at the top and bottom using self-tapping flea screws. During installation, the verticality of the profiles is controlled by a plumb line.

The doorway is formed by rack profiles. For this purpose, two vertical racks from this profile from floor to ceiling, and at the required height a jumper made of the same material is fixed horizontally to them. If there is no future door frame, then the profiles forming the doorway should be strengthened wooden block, which is fixed inside the profile with screws. The width of the beam corresponds to the width of the profile.

If the frame structure is not strong enough, then one or more transverse bridges from the guide profile should be installed. To strengthen the frame (if necessary), you can use intermediate wooden beams, which can be fixed both vertically and horizontally.

When choosing the size of metal profiles, you should take into account the strength of the future wall. The best performance is achieved when using profiles with a width of 100 mm, but the material with a width of 65 mm is most widespread.

When making a simplified frame entirely from wooden beams, the principle of its assembly is practically no different from installing a frame made of a metal profile. It is advisable to connect the beams together using furniture corners.

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Cladding one side of the wall

After installing the wall frame, you can proceed directly to making it from plasterboard. Depending on where the wall is located, you should choose the brand of material. In most cases, regular plasterboard is suitable. However, if a partition for a bathroom is being formed, then plasterboard should be used.

The first sheet of drywall is usually not cut to width and is installed close to the side wall of the room. The length of the sheet is either cut (if it is 3 m long) or added by a segment from another sheet. Drywall is cut with a construction knife. The next sheet is cut to size taking into account the openings. At the junction of the sheets, a bevel is made with an angle of slightly more than 20°. It is best to use a special plane for these purposes, but you can also use a file.

The sheets are attached using self-tapping screws measuring 3.5x35 mm. First, the edges are attached in the corner of the drywall, and then the edges in the middle and along the lines of contact with the frame. The distance between the screws is 10-25 cm. The screws are screwed in until the cap is immersed in the cardboard. An important condition is that the drywall is installed with a gap to the floor of about 10-15 mm. This is how one side of the frame is faced.