Brick stove for home projects. Small brick ovens: purpose, advantages, construction

The need for warmth and comfort in a private home arises already in mid-autumn, and it is good if the house has central heating. Those who have to heat their home autonomously will have to thoroughly prepare for the autumn-winter season. The problem can be solved today modern boilers or electric fireplaces, but they will not create that special unique atmosphere of a live fire in the stove, accompanied by the crackling of wood. Therefore, it is quite correct if the following question arises for you: “How to build a brick stove with your own hands?” In this article we will look at the process of creating a brick oven in stages, taking into account diagrams and all the materials and tools necessary during the laying process. All you have to do is correctly repeat all the described processes, and you will become the owner of a high-quality home stove that will warm you on cold winter evenings.

It is very easy to make a stove out of brick if you have a clear idea of what type of stove will ideally fit into the conditions of your building. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the brief characteristics of private houses, and based on the information received, make the right choice. So, the types of stoves relative to the type of buildings.

Stove in a wooden house. An oven of this type needs a very reliable foundation. It is better to provide for the presence of a stove at the stage of building a house, then you can significantly reduce the cost of creating a foundation for stove equipment. If the stove was not included in the house construction project, then you will have to spend money on partial dismantling of the floors and subsequent Finishing work. There is no other way out. The best option for wooden house there will be a compact stove made of brick heating and cooking type with medium heat capacity, as well as a fireplace stove or an option with a bread maker.
Classic Russian stove for a cottage. This option is losing popularity due to the massiveness and complexity of the masonry. Such a large-sized stove with the functions of cooking, water heating, heating and a sleeping place, that is, a sun lounger, is very convenient, but will not fit into a small house, and also requires the mandatory creation of an individual monolithic reinforced base.
Stove in a country house. Ideal for country house There will be a stove with a hob and a heating water tank.
Stove in a cottage or country house. Cottages and dachas require visits only during a certain season or on weekends, which means that in such a building it will be sufficient to install a small brick stove with hob. In this case, it is worth taking a closer look at the stove design, built according to the summer version, when the heated air will be directed directly into the chimney, and not into the heat exchange channels.
Stove for a home with a sauna. If you have a bathhouse attached to your house, it is quite possible to build a brick stove with a built-in boiler for heating residential premises.
Barbecue oven. Such units are usually installed in attics, gazebos or summer kitchens. They can be modest in size or very impressive, but are equally used only for cooking, so they are equipped, for example, with hobs, ovens, barbecues, barbecue grills, cast iron cauldrons, etc.

Barbecue cooker with oven

This is all that needs to be taken into account in order to correctly determine the type of suitable furnace equipment. We can move on.

Stove maker's advice. When deciding on the size of the stove structure, first of all pay attention to such points as ease of use and fire safety!

Stage 2. Building material: choice

When choosing a brick, you need to consider how resistant it will be to the influence of high temperatures, while the main emphasis should be placed on the integrity of the material after repeating the heating and cooling procedure. The characteristics of brick as a building material will determine the service life of the kiln. It is important!

Choosing a brick

Any brick is marked. One of them denotes density. For stoves, it is optimal to purchase bricks marked from 75 to 250, but it is worth remembering that the denser the product, the slower the stove will have to be melted, and the slower it will heat up. On the other hand, a well-heated stove made of dense brick will slowly cool, giving off its soft heat to the atmosphere.

If you plan to build a stove in a bathhouse, it is better to choose the least dense brick (but above M100) so that kindling does not take much time. And for appliances intended for heating residential premises and cooking, it is worth purchasing denser bricks.

It is worth knowing that the density indicator is not a sign of the quality of the brick. However, it is better to clarify the composition so as not to purchase a product with chemical impurities hazardous to health.

The next marking is the frost resistance of the product. This indicator is especially important (and should be the highest) for that part of the chimney that is located above the roof. Frost resistance itself is the property of a product to absorb moisture, which during crystallization deforms the material. The best frost resistance indicators are for hollow facing bricks, but the inside of the chimney can be laid out of solid red brick. High-quality products with a high level of frost resistance are produced in the Novgorod region, the city of Borovichi.

It is advisable to purchase red bricks made by plastic molding. These products have few pores, they withstand temperature changes well, and the masonry does not crack even after the oven has been idle for a long time. Products made of silicate, pressed, cast using the slip casting method, and unfired raw materials are not suitable for the construction of furnaces.

Fireclay bricks made according to GOST can withstand up to 1350 degrees. You can build the entire furnace from such bricks or use it only for lining the internal working surfaces of the furnace. For masonry of the firebox, you can use straw-yellow products of the Sh8 brand with dark inclusions; for the firebox vault, fireclay bricks Sh22 - Sh45 are suitable. However, this recommendation does not apply to sauna stoves, because fireclay bricks are used only at humidity levels less than 60%. In the bathhouse, it is better to use clinker bricks or ceramic refractory bricks.

Prices for fireclay bricks

fireclay brick

How to check the quality of bricks:

If you drop the product on the floor, it will break into large pieces. If the brick crumbles into crumbs, discard the batch;
if you touch a brick, it does not generate dust;
if a high-quality product is hit with a hammer, there will be a clear, clear, long-lasting sound;
The edges of a good brick are smooth, the color is rich and even.

GOST 530-2012. CERAMIC BRICK AND STONE. File for download

GOST 8691-73. FIREPROOF PRODUCTS FOR GENERAL PURPOSE. SHAPE AND SIZES. File for download

Choosing a mortar

Choice mortar – important point. If the solution is incorrect, the stove will smoke, and cracks may very soon appear on the surface of the structure.

Most often, masonry mortar is prepared from fine-grained sifted river sand (sand grains maximum 1.5 mm) and clay, which must be soaked for several hours before mixing. The soaked clay is ground through a sieve to get rid of lumps, because the masonry joint should not exceed five millimeters in thickness.

Clay mortar - preparation

Proportions for clay mortar depend on the quality of the clay - the fatter it is, the more sand, but it is important not to make a solution that is too thin, which will dry out and crack. It is recommended to do several test mixing of the solutions to determine the required proportions of sand and clay, and it is important to thoroughly mix the sand, adding it in several stages.

A test for fat content is done by taking half a fist of the material, moistening it and kneading it thoroughly, rolling it into a ball, and then placing and squeezing it between two smooth boards. If the ball was able to be compressed by a third of its diameter and no cracks appeared, then the solution is suitable for laying a furnace. An additional quality check is drying a ball with a diameter of 5 cm in air for 20 days. A good quality dried ball will not crumple when you press on it.

How much water to pour? We make test batches again and check the degree of fluidity of the solution. We run the trowel over the mixed solution and look at the mark:

if it is torn, then there is not enough water;
if you swam almost instantly, there is an excess of moisture;
if the mark is clear and the edges are smooth, then the solution is suitable for laying a stove.

Figures 5 and 6 show a trowel that has been dipped into the solution. In the first case, it is too greasy, there are streaky streaks left on the trowel, you need to add a little sand, but in the second case (Fig. 6) the solution is good, the metal is slightly visible, and the streaks are patterned.

Note! It is advisable to use soft water to mix the masonry mixture. Too hard, that is, 8 degrees and above, will reduce the strength of the solution.

The final suitability test is carried out by spreading a 3 mm layer on the brick bed. The second brick is glued to the first, tapped with a mallet and waited for 5-10 minutes. During the specified time, both bricks should stick together. If the bricks do not spill even when shaken, the stove is guaranteed to last a hundred years.

Note! To lay the firebox, either fireclay sand or a mixture of equal parts of fireclay and quartz sand is added to the solution.

Video - Preparation of clay mortar for laying a stove

Clay mortar for foundation laying and fluffing chimney do not use. For these elements, a classic cement mortar or with the addition of lime paste is used (cement M500 or M600 - 1 part, lime paste - from 9 to 16 parts).

Important! If you think that you cannot cope with preparing, testing and mixing the clay solution, purchase ready-made stove mixtures, for example, Terracotta (20 kg, 306 rubles). For red brick, a mixture with red clay is suitable, and gray fireproof mixtures are ideal for both red and fireclay bricks. Do not purchase ready-made mixtures containing cement.

Prices for cement M600

cement M600

Stage 3. Selection and calculation of the quantity of bricks for masonry

At the second stage, you need to carry out the optimal calculation of the dimensions of the brick oven. Having established the final size of the stove structure, you can install the required number of bricks. The red solid single brick has a fixed size of 250 (length) x 120 (width) x 65 (thickness) mm with a deviation of +/- 2 mm.

Refractory fireclay bricks, from which the firebox of almost all furnaces are laid out, are manufactured and marked according to GOST 8691-73. Size information is given in the table.

For one square meter of half-brick masonry you will need:

excluding mortar joint - 61 bricks;
taking into account mortar joints - 57 pieces and 0.011 cubic meters of masonry mortar.

Accordingly, for two meters of square brickwork you will need 122 or 113 solid red bricks, and the estimated amount of mortar consumed will be 0.022 m3.

Please note that when laying in one brick, that is, if the thickness of the furnace wall is not 120, but already 250 mm, then 128 or 115 bricks will be used for each square meter, respectively, excluding and taking into account mortar joints, and the amount of masonry mixture will increase up to 0.027 m3.

How to make a simplified calculation of the approximate number of bricks for the entire kiln:

the number of bricks in the first row is calculated;
the resulting value is multiplied by the number of rows of the oven;
the found number is multiplied by 0.8 (for heating devices) or 0.65 (for devices with a heating panel).

For example, let’s calculate the amount of bricks for a stove measuring 90x90 cm. There are 3.5 bricks per 900 mm. That is, in the first row there will be 24.5 pieces. Multiply by the number of rows 24.5x30, we get 735 pcs. We accept a coefficient of 0.65x735 pcs. = 477.75 pcs., round up to 480 and add 10% for rejection.

The number of bricks per pipe is calculated separately. Its height and design are adopted in accordance with SP 60.13330.2012 (“Heating, ventilation and air conditioning”) and SNiP 2.09.03-85 (“Smoke pipes”), which will be described in detail below. For a straight four-meter pipe you will need:

We count: 4x56=224 pcs. For otter, cutting and fluffing we add another 56 bricks and multiply the result by 10%. All that remains is to sum up the amount of brick for the stove with the same amount for the chimney.

You can more accurately calculate the amount of material by drawing up or using an existing order diagram, which shows the longitudinal and transverse sections of the stove, provides recommendations for laying the chimney and the dimensions of all elements, including doors.

This information can be used in practice, creating an individual plan for the consumption of brick material.

It is worth noting: if you ultimately want to get the perfect brick stove that fits perfectly into your home, be as careful as possible, starting with the selection of stove equipment and ending with its commissioning. This approach will allow you to enjoy your personal creation for a long time in the future.

Stage 4. Choosing a furnace location

So, after you have decided on the type of stove, determined the area of the stove structure, and also chosen the building material and mortar, proceed to choosing a location for installing the stove.

Usually the stove is installed in one of the corners of the room or against a wall - this allows you to save precious meters of living space.

The heating stove can be located in the center of the house, while simultaneously being located in several adjacent rooms with its different sides, for example, a firebox will go into the kitchen, and three other walls will heat the rooms.

It is better to build a sauna stove near the door to the steam room. This will ensure proper temperature and humidity conditions and allow air masses to circulate effectively (provided that the exhaust and supply ventilation openings are correctly located).

However, you need to remember about the distances between the surfaces of the stove, chimney and walls, ceiling. According to SNiP 2.04.05-91, you should adhere to the following distances:

Heating stoves, smoke and ventilation ducts of residential and public buildings. Rules for production and acceptance of work

Stone and stove works. Files for downloading pdf

Stage 5. Foundation

The oven, made of brick, has a large specific gravity, therefore, without a reliable foundation, the structure cannot be installed.

The foundation for the furnace can be monolithic reinforced concrete, pile, columnar, lined with blocks, pile-screw.

Regardless of the type, the foundation of the stove should not be connected to the foundation of the house. The type of foundation is chosen, as for a house, based on the type of soil.

The gravel-sandy soil allows for the development of a shallow foundation.
If the soil is clayey or sedimentary, it is better to pour the foundation on a crushed stone bed, while deepening it to the freezing level.
In permafrost zones, a pile-screw foundation is installed, Special attention paying attention to thermal insulation of piles.
On dry rocky soils, the foundation may have minimum thickness or absent altogether.
Bulk soil is not suitable for installing a brick kiln.

Let's consider a method for arranging solid bases for a brick kiln.

Step 1. Depending on the type of soil and the level of its freezing, we dig a pit. We take the width and shape based on the dimensions of the oven and adding 10-15 cm to its length and width, respectively. Immediately pay attention to the location ceiling beams ceilings - a chimney pipe will have to pass between them, taking into account the deviations regulated by SNiP. It is also recommended to carry out drainage (drainage) from the furnace foundation to reduce moisture and heaving of the soil.

Step 2. We tamp the bottom of the pit and level it horizontally as much as possible. Pour a ten-centimeter layer of fine broken bricks, rubble stone or crushed stone. We repeat the tamping procedure.

Step 3. We prepare liquid cement mortar (the ratio of cement and sand is 1 to 3) and fill the embankment with it.

combine ten-centimeter layers of crushed stone backfill with cement filling. This option is acceptable for foundations of small depth, namely up to 50 cm;
install the reinforcement frame and fill it with concrete. The frame is knitted with reinforcement wire with a diameter of 10 mm. The cell size is 10x10 cm. Formwork is installed in the pit, the frame must be 5 cm from its walls and bottom, for which they are used plastic clips or pieces of brick. Concrete is poured inside, and the mixture is compacted during the pouring process with an internal vibrator or metal rod. The top pouring point should be 15 cm below the finished floor level;
pour a reinforced concrete slab, on top of which lay the foundation walls of silicate or red brick, and inner part pour concrete with backfill (loose aggregate should be less than or equal to the volume of concrete).

The first and third base options are completed with a layer of cement mortar. The filled layer is checked with a level and, if necessary, leveled with a rule or other suitable tool.

Further work is carried out after the solutions used in the process of pouring the foundation have completely dried.

Step 5. We lay the waterproofing in three layers, fixing it with mastic (for roofing felt we use tar, for roofing felt we use bitumen).

Step 6. We lay out a continuous row of bricks. We place whole bricks on the edges, halves on the inside. The brick base should be 5-7 cm wider than the existing foundation, but 5-7 cm wider than the stove itself.

We do not use cement to bind bricks together. On top of the masonry, which we also check for horizontalness, we put another layer of waterproofing, then lay out the second layer of brick, observing the dressing between the two rows. The brick base should ideally be exactly level with the finished floor or rise 3-4 cm above it.

Important note! Do not use bricks for construction that have lain outside all winter and have been repeatedly exposed to wetness and freezing. Such products can quickly deteriorate, which will greatly reduce the service life of the furnace.

We fill the space between the foundation of the stove and the house with river sand.

Stage 6. Construction of a stove-heater with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction

This project can be implemented both in a separate bathhouse and in a steam room attached to residential building. The stove does not have a tank for heating water and a heat exchanger, but it has a hob that can easily heat water for 4-6 people. At the same time, the oven cools down very slowly, so warm water it will be even the morning after the procedures, and in the room, even in winter, the temperature will not drop below +15 degrees for more than a day. The stove will provide heating for a steam room measuring 3.3x5 meters and with a ceiling height of 2 meters to eighty degrees in about 5-6 hours.

The heater itself will be located in the steam room, and fuel will be loaded from the rest room. Bath stones, which hold approximately 40 kg (soapstone), are loaded into a special oven, where they are evenly heated, so that the steam in the bath is dry and quite thick and hot.

The height of the oven will be approximately 1.33 meters. The oven is square, side 0.89 meters. Using these data, calculate the dimensions of the foundation and lay/fill it in advance.

During the construction of the stove (the chimney is not taken into account) the following will be used:

269 red bricks;
63 refractory bricks ША-8;
cast iron combustion door dimensions 0.21x0.25 m;
Oven door - example
ash door 0.14x0.25 m;
two cleaning doors 0.14x0.14 m;
grate 0.38x0.25 m;
two-burner cast iron hob 0.51x0.34 m;
oven for laying stones with dimensions of 0.25x0.25x0.44 m;
one valve for “summer” mode with dimensions of 0.13x0.13 m;
one chimney valve, size 0.13x0.25 m;
pre-furnace sheet steel size not less than 50x70 cm.

The key in brickwork is the construction joint. It should be uniform across each row, thoroughly coated. This is the only way you will achieve a monolithic stove structure and prevent smoke leakage from the fuel chamber. Carry out the process with utmost care;
Before laying the brick, it must be well moistened. To do this, prepare a container of water and lower the bricks into the water for 5 – 10 minutes. This time is enough for the adhesion of clay and brick to be at the highest level in the future. Once the wet brick dries, it prevents cracks from occurring in the finished stove structure. We keep the bricks in water until air bubbles stop coming out. Refractory bricks are not soaked, but only moistened with water;
Before laying each subsequent row, use building level and a plumb line - the use of these tools in the work process is a guarantee that the structure will be free from geometric distortions and distortions.

We lay out the first row of red brick. In total you will need 24 whole bricks and one sawn in two. Lay the row very evenly, using a meter level to check the horizontality along the sides and axes of the masonry. Use a tape measure to check for squareness and alignment. We adjust the bricks with a rubber hammer. We make seams no more than five millimeters.

The second row does not differ from the first either in the quantity of bricks or in its quality. You just have to carefully observe the dressing between the two rows. It is better to start laying from the corners, gradually filling the middle.

For the third row, take twenty red bricks and the ash chamber door. We lay sixteen bricks intact, cut another four with a grinder or a hacksaw for metal with a tungsten carbide blade (see the drawing for the accuracy of cutting the elements).

Before cutting, we wet the brick and securely fix it. We follow safety precautions!!!

Cutting bricks with a grinder - photo

Video - How to cut brick

Video - Cutting stove bricks with a grinder

We don’t rush to apply the solution, first lay out the entire row dry! Bricks must not be laid with the hewn (cut) side inside the firebox or chimney. It is also strictly forbidden to lubricate the internal surfaces of the channels and firebox with clay.

If the brick is laid unsuccessfully, remove it, clean it of the mortar, soak it again, apply a new mortar with a trowel, and then make the adjustment again.

In the same row we fix the door; to do this, we wrap the door frame around the perimeter with asbestos cord, cover it with a solution, insert and twist steel knitting wire (diameter 3-4 mm, length 1-1.2 m, number of twisting rods from 3 to 4 ) into the holes in the corners of the frame, and pass the resulting wire twists between the rows of bricks.

Fastening the door with wire - the upper ends of the wire are laid between the bricks

Installing a stove door - photo

Video - How to attach a wire to a door

Video - How to attach the oven door to the blower

The clay mortar and the weight of the bricks will securely hold the door frame.

Another way to install the door is by using metal strips or plates that are flared at the ends. The elements are attached to the door frame by riveting, after which they are fixed in masonry joints. If the plates are too thick, it is better to cut grooves into the bricks.

The accuracy of the door installation is checked with a plumb line and level.

Advice. To make the cleaning door fit more neatly and accurately, remove a rectangular chamfer from the bricks that will be located around the perimeter of the door frame. That is, the hole for installing the door should be 5 mm longer and wider than the frame.

Don't worry if you only get three rows done in a day. Soaking, trimming, fitting and laying require time, patience and precision.

In the fourth row, we continue to form the ash chamber, additionally laying out the lower horizontal channel. The entire row will require 16 bricks. For the channel, we immediately install a door 0.14x0.14 m. The door can be fixed without asbestos, simply on the solution, since in this place the temperature will be low and the thermal expansion of the metal will be minimal.

For the fifth row we take 16 and a half red bricks. We cut four of them obliquely to make the door overlap using the “lock” method. We lay the bricks with the hewn side up. We cut two more bricks obliquely, forming an overlap.

Row 6

In the sixth row, fireclay bricks will be used in the amount of six and a half pieces and red brick - 12 pieces. It is shown in yellow in the diagram. We lay out the base of the fuel chamber from fireclay. We make slots for laying the grate. The hole for the grating should be 5-7 mm larger so that the expanding metal does not destroy the masonry. We fill the space between the grate and the bricks (chamfers) with sand.

Experienced stove makers advise laying the grate with a slight slope, up to three centimeters, towards the stove door.

Use one brick to block the cleaning door.

In this row of 9 red and 5 fireclay bricks we form a fuel chamber. We cut the brick that is placed at the back of the firebox obliquely at an angle of 45 degrees.

We install the door using asbestos cord. Door size 21x25 cm.

We also place a welded oven made of 8 mm thick steel. The back of the cabinet will be located in the fuel chamber. The door of the cabinet is slightly smaller than its height, that is, it is raised, due to which the bath stones will not fall out on the floor.

We carry out the laying according to the order schemes. For work, we take seven red and fireclay bricks.

For the ninth row you will need 6.5 red and 7 fireclay bricks. We build the walls of the firebox.

In this row, using the “lock” method already discussed above, we close the fire door. The entire row will require 7 red, 8 fireclay bricks and another 1 wedged fireclay.

We take 10 and a half fireclay and 6 and a half red bricks. Cover the door and back oven. We lay the bricks, connecting the firebox with the nearest vertical channel. Another channel is formed above the cabinet - we install a door there.

We take 12 red and 9 fireclay bricks. We trim as shown in the diagram, and also make a recess for the hob, taking into account the required five-millimeter gaps. We lay a 51x34 cm hob; we do not use any mortar.

We install the valve in the nearest vertical channel. To install the metal element, we make slits in the brick, as shown in the diagrams. The far vertical channel, starting from this row, bifurcates.

Gate valve in the furnace - photo

For work we take 9 fireclay and 6 and a half red bricks.

We begin to form decorative niche, for which we use 15.5 red bricks. We no longer use fireclay.

We combine the near channel and the central one. We use 13.5 bricks.

We continue laying in order. We take 14 and a half bricks.

We block the far channel and the central one. We cut two bricks above the niche obliquely to make a locking ceiling. We also cut the brick obliquely above the hob. We lay the wedge brick in the lock. Consumption per row – 18 pcs.

We close the oven completely, with the exception of the near channel. We make cutouts in this channel to install a 13x25 cm valve. Above the slab we cut another brick obliquely. Consumption – 16 pcs.

From 17 and a half bricks we re-cover, leaving only smoke channel size 13x13 cm.

We use four bricks to form the base of the chimney pipe.

With the ligation we place the second row of pipe.

Video - Description of furnace construction

The internal surfaces of the furnace must be as smooth as possible so that soot does not accumulate on them, therefore, during the laying process, the protruding clay must be cleaned or scraped off.

How to dry the oven? We leave the unit with the valves and doors open for about a week. Without closing the doors, we put just a little fuel into the firebox to warm up the walls a little. The next day we repeat the operation, increasing the amount of fuel. At the same time, we do not close the doors. When there are no wet marks left on the walls and no condensation on the valve, the stove is ready for the first real fire.

Video - Do-it-yourself stove for the bathhouse

Video - Drying the oven

After drying, the stove can be heated and the draft in it checked by opening the valves, then holding a burning match to the open door of the firebox. If the flame deviates into the oven, it means there is draft.

The draft depends on the chimney, which in turn must be at least five meters long, if you count from the grate. More accurately, the height of the chimney above the roof can be determined from the picture. But remember that damp pipes will have slightly weaker draft.

It is recommended to whitewash a brick pipe in two layers with chalk or lime so that furnace gas leaks become immediately noticeable. The faulty pipe is immediately repaired. Above the roof, the chimney pipe must be plastered, and for masonry a cement, cement-lime or simply lime mortar is used, and the best quality brick is selected, without chips, cracks, or other defects.

Don’t forget to clean the stove - in the spring if you plan to heat the sauna in the summer and twice a year if you use it constantly. If cracks appear, immediately seal them with clay mortar, applying and leveling it with a trowel.

Video - How to fold a stove with your own hands

Video - Laying the first row of bricks

There are many options for stoves for cottages and houses. Some of them involve financial expenses, others require direct hands. What should we do for those who have not succeeded either with money or with skill? A simple brick stove that even a “humanitarian” can put together will help out.

The article discusses two options. The first one is suitable for those who want more or less “decent” heating and cooking equipment. The second will be useful to readers who generally do not pretend to be either a penchant for handicraft or any kind of aesthetics of the result.

Figure 1. Simple brick oven

How to make a simple but effective stove?

This option can serve as an alternative to the simplest metal heating devices - for example, a potbelly stove. With the help of this stove you can heat the room, cook food, and even admire the flames.

The structure occupies just over half a square meter. Unlike full-fledged brick ovens, this one does not require. The weight of the structure is not so great as to make a strong base - it is enough to lay a strong board.

The oven can be made in just a day. One of the advantages of this option is that starting heating is possible in the evening. Certain skills are necessary, but they do not go beyond the skills of the average male.

On a note! No qualifications are required to build stoves. But it is necessary to maintain order - this will make the design as effective as possible in the context of its potential.

What will you need for the job?

It is not only simple, but also a budget option. To build the structure you will need:

brick:
*fireclay – 37 pcs.;
*red – 60 pcs.;
ash door;
firebox door;
lattice;
valve;
hob made of cast iron.

Clay solution is used as a binder. In total you will need about 20-25 liters of the mixture.

It will also be interesting: - types and characteristics.

Preparation

The first step is to decide on the location of the stove. Since the mass of the structure is small, there are no limitations inherent in traditional brick solutions. By securing strong boards or a suitable alternative material, the “foundation” is thermally and waterproofed.

Non-flammable material can play the role of an insulator - for example, basalt wool. Polyethylene or roofing felt is placed on top of the base. The size of the latter corresponds to the dimensions of the base plus a small allowance.

A layer of sand 1-2 cm thick is poured on top. The bedding is leveled. It is important to make the base level - the quality of the design and the convenience of subsequent work depend on this.

Masonry scheme

Figure 2. Order of the stove masonry

The oven order is as follows:

The first row is laid on sand without using a solution. A dozen bricks are leveled strictly. The bricks are coated with a thin layer of the mixture, after which the blower door is mounted at the end. The door is pre-wrapped around the perimeter with an asbestos cord, which compensates for the thermal expansion of the metal.
After fixing the door with wire, lay the second row according to the diagram. Form a ash pit.
Fireclay is used (in the diagram it has a yellow tint). After laying, a grate is installed above the ash pit.
Before this, bricks were laid flat. On this row it is placed on its edge. A smoke exhaust channel is formed, inside which a base for the partition is made. One of the bricks (seen in the illustration) is laid “dry” - it will later be removed. After this, the firebox door is installed, which is wrapped several times with asbestos strips before installation. But this must be done so that the door opens well to the top. The element is fixed with wire and a pair of bricks.
The brick is laid flat again, duplicating the previous row.
Again the “rib” row is the second and last row in which the brick is laid in this way. The exception is the next row, in which one of the walls is formed by laying on edge. The walls of the chimney channel should be wiped with a damp cloth.
The brick is laid flat according to the diagram. The back wall is made using the edge-on format again.
This row closes the firebox. A couple of bricks should hang over the firebox so that the flame moves to the middle of the hob - in case the stove will be used as a fireplace (without closing the firebox door).
The bricks are moved slightly towards the back wall to support the firebox door. Strips of asbestos soaked in water are laid in front of the brickwork. Thanks to this, they ensure sealing of the gap between ceramics and cast iron. A cast iron panel cannot be placed directly on a clay solution, otherwise the difference in the thermal expansion parameters of the materials will lead to the appearance of cracks.
At this stage, the formation of the smoke exhaust pipe begins. The latter, according to the plan, should gradually expand towards the back side. But only the chimney base is made of brick. The rest is made of light metal. Otherwise, the excess mass of the element may lead to a shift in the center of gravity of the stove.
A valve sealed with asbestos strips is installed here. It is recommended to pre-coat the latter with clay mortar. This is the final row, which is used to complete the construction of a brick oven directly with your own hands. The remaining couple of rows are given to the chimney, which will then be connected to a lighter metal channel.

After this, those bricks that were laid “dry” on the 4th row are removed. At the same stage, the smoke exhaust duct and the surface of the stove are cleaned of construction debris.

Final works

The simplest stove does not require serious decorations. The only decoration is whitewashing. It is recommended to add a little blue and milk to the composition - this will protect the coating from the formation of a yellow coating and bleaching.

Important! Brick and metal should be protected before work. If this is not done (for example, using film), you will not be able to get rid of the stains.

It is necessary to coat the seams between the brick and the metal of the chimney very well, as well as the seams between the ceramics and cast iron.

It is imperative to close the joint between the stove brick and the floor. This will prevent oven sand from getting into the room. It is advisable to cover the joint with a sheet L-shaped. Then they make a plinth edging, which serves as both decor and additional element, preventing the “foundation” bedding from spilling out.

Figure 3. Functioning oven

The stove is ready. The entire process took no more than one working day. Now you can try to make a low-power one. You cannot use logs - only wood chips or paper. Wood burning will create too much high temperature, and the structure will crack. For the mixture to fully set, you need to give it a week or two. After this, you can already heat it “like an adult.”

This is interesting: ? Review of 10 options.

An even simpler version of the stove

If the previous option seemed complicated to someone (although it is not), we can offer an extremely simplified heating design. You can lay out this oven with your own hands in literally an hour, even if your hands are far from being called golden.

Figure 4. The simplest version of a brick oven

The operating principle of the structure is simple. It's burning down below solid fuel, which settles here under the influence of its own mass. Temperature changes create a draft that carries hot air currents upward. In this case, the firewood burns almost without a residue - the smoke is minimal.

For masonry you will need only two dozen whole bricks and two halves. The stove consists of five rows. The design is so simple that there is no point in describing the order. The procedure is clearly shown in the illustration.

Figure 5. Order of the simplest brick structure

If you lay the bricks correctly (and it is very difficult to do otherwise), the result will be similar to that shown in the photo. It is recommended to bind the bricks with clay mortar. But in field conditions, you can do without binding material - just put the components on top of each other according to the order. In this case, the stove is built in five minutes.
Figure 6. Masonry process Figure 7. Finished mobile brick oven

For those who want an intermediate option, we can recommend a slightly more complicated option.

Figure 8. Diagram of a simple stove

According to this diagram, the output is an L-shaped three-section stove. The first compartment is designed for loading firewood. The second is a chamber in which the logs are burned. The third compartment is the chimney duct. Figure 9. L-shaped stove

To create this structure you will also need 20-30 bricks. This option can be completed by yourself in a couple of hours, if the skills of a mason are completely absent. A specialist will complete the construction in a matter of minutes.

There are a large number of different stoves that can be used both for heating and for heating the house and cooking. Some are quite voluminous and massive, others are compact, and are chosen for a specific room. the right option, which will be most effective for a given area. In addition, any of the furnaces must be installed with mandatory consideration of the requirements developed by specialists in accordance with SNiP 41-01-2003.

In the conditions of modern information space brick kilns for the house, drawings with orders can always be found on the Internet. However, it must be remembered that building this structure yourself is quite difficult, since each stove maker has his own experience and professional secrets, which can only be acquired with work experience.

Criteria for choosing a brick kiln

If you nevertheless decide to carry out such work yourself, then you need to decide on the model - with knowledge of the matter, paying attention not only to appearance and the design of the stove, but also on its heating capabilities in relation to the room that it will have to heat.

When choosing a stove by size, you need to take into account that its side walls give off more heat than the front and back. This factor must be taken into account when planning to install the stove in a particular location.

Furnaces are divided not only by functionality, but also by their form. They can be rectangular, T-shaped, with a protrusion in the form of a couch or stove, and others.

Stoves can only be used for heating living rooms and be installed, for example, between the living room and the bedroom, perform several functions and serve as a dividing wall between the living quarters and the kitchen.

For rooms with a small area, you should not choose too massive buildings. Although many of them are multifunctional, they will take up too much useful place, which can be used for other needs.

Naturally, the location of the heated room in the house, as well as the degree of insulation of the entire building, also plays a big role.

Table for choosing a stove depending on the area to be heated and the location of the rooms:

Room area, m²	Furnace surface, m²
	Not a corner room, inside the house	Room with one outside corner	Room with two external corners	Hallway
8	1.25	1.95	2.1	3.4
10	1.5	2.4	2.6	4.5
15	2.3	3.4	3.9	6
20	3.2	4.2	4.6	-
25	4.6	6.9	7.8	-

All these criteria must be determined in advance, and, based on them, a choice should be made in favor of one or another model.

Types of brick stoves

As mentioned above, the design of stoves can be different - both very difficult to construct and quite simple. The most famous models are “Dutch”, “Swedish”, “Russian”. Modifications named after their designers are widely popular. Thus, stoves made by Bykov, Podgorodnikov, Kuznetsov and other masters are very common.

There are heating stoves that do not have a hob and other elements, but consist only of walls in which smoke exhaust channels, fireboxes, ash chambers and cleaning chambers pass.

Heating and cooking stoves have in their design a stove for cooking, sometimes an oven, a water heating tank and a drying chamber.

Another type of heating structure is a fireplace stove, which has two fireboxes in its design - a fireplace and a stove. This model can be used by heating only one of the fireboxes or both at the same time.

There are also stoves that include the entire complex necessary for human life both in summer and in winter period. They are often equipped with a heated couch, which can serve as the basis for a bed.

You might be interested in information about what it is

Prices for finished heating stoves

heating stoves

Choosing a place to install the stove

It is important to provide right place furnace installations. The optimal place is the crossroads of the walls of the house. If he doesn't have large area, then such a stove can heat all rooms at the same time. It is advisable that the structure be located close to the entrance to the building, since the heat emanating from it will create a barrier to the cold air coming from front door. In addition, if the firebox door opens into the hallway, then it is easier to deliver fuel to it without carrying it through the entire house.

When choosing a location, you need to take into account several more factors that are important for the operation of the furnace:

The building must be installed in such a way that there is free access to any of its walls - this must be taken into account for unimpeded monitoring of the integrity of the walls and for cleaning the chambers.
When constructing a stove, it is necessary to provide a separate foundation for it, not connected to the foundation of the house.
The chimney pipe must pass between the beams of the attic floor and not bump into them when it is lifted - this is provided for when building a house, and if the stove is being erected in a finished building, then before laying the foundation for it.
For fire safety purposes, there must be a heat-resistant flooring made of wood on the floor in front of the fire door. metal sheet or ceramic tiles.

Basic design of a brick kiln

To know how each of the furnace elements works and what it is intended for, you need to consider the basic design of the heating structure:

The fuel chamber is designed for loading and burning fuel. It is separated from the ash chamber by a grate and connected to internal channels through which smoke and hot gases follow through the entire furnace, redirected into the chimney pipe.
The ash chamber provides a controlled air supply to the firebox and is a collector of ash from burnt fuel, and therefore requires periodic cleaning.
An oven, a hob and a tank for heating water - these elements are built into heating and cooking stoves.
Cleaning chambers are necessary because soot collects in them, which crumbles from the walls of the chimney channels passing inside the furnace. They are used to periodically clean the oven to maintain normal draft.

The flue ducts running inside the stove can have different configurations depending on different models. Hot gaseous combustion products, passing through them, heat the walls of the furnace, which release heat into the room.
The channels direct smoke and combustion products into a chimney located at the very top of the stove and then exiting to the outside of the building.

One of the most important conditions The effective operation of the furnace is good draft, which is achieved by high-quality masonry in compliance with the order scheme and periodic cleaning of the structure during operation. In addition, it is necessary to maintain the required height of the chimney pipe and its correct location on the roof.

You might be interested in learning why

Materials for building a stove

An important issue for the long-term functioning of the stove is the choice of high-quality materials for its masonry, so you should not skimp on them. To build a building you will need:

Red fire brick, the quantity of which is determined by the selected model. It must be remembered that this material is quite fragile, so its transportation and unloading must be carried out extremely carefully.
Fireclay brick is used to lay the combustion chamber in direct contact with the fire. It will require from 40 to 200 pieces, but the exact quantity can be found out from the diagram of the selected model. This type of brick can withstand temperatures of 1450–1500°; it retains heat for a long time, gradually releasing it to the walls of the furnace.
Raising the stove cannot be done without brick laying mortar, which is made on the basis of clay. Stove makers advise using the Borovichevsky mortar composition - it is quite plastic during the laying process and fireproof during operation.
Cast iron elements are doors for the firebox, ash pan and cleaning chambers, valves and grate. If the heating and cooking stove is raised, then one or more two-burner stove, oven and water heating tank provided by the design.

Steel wire for securing cast iron elements in masonry.
Asbestos cord or sheet - for laying between brick and metal parts.

You might be interested in learning how to make a cast iron stove out of it

Now, having become acquainted with some of the nuances of building a stove, you can consider several models that should be available for laying even for beginners.

Heating stove V. Bykov

This stove is intended for heating purposes only as it does not have a stove or oven. However, despite this, it is quite popular for houses with a small area, since it is compact - it takes up little space, but at the same time it is capable of heating even three rooms.

The size of the building is 510 × 1400 mm, with its height without pipe being 2150 mm. If we take the size in bricks, then it is 2 × 5½ bricks.

The stove is quite simple to install, as it does not have complex internal configurations. In appearance, it generally resembles a thick wall, which is why the designer himself called it a “thick warm wall.” The heat transfer from the entire building is 2400 kcal/h, but the side walls account for 920 kcal/h, and the front and rear parts only 280 kcal/h. The cross-section of the smoke exhaust duct is 130 × 260 mm.

Due to its small width, the stove fits perfectly between two rooms, with its front part opening into a third, for example, a hallway, and is not only a separator for two rooms, but also a source of heat for them.

The entire design of this model is divided into two sections - the upper gas exhaust and the lower combustion chamber. There are two channels in the lower part - ascending and descending. They help heat the combustion part of the furnace and equalize the temperature throughout the entire structure, preventing it from overheating.

The upper part of the furnace is made in the form of a cap, divided into five vertical, descending and ascending channels, which are ⅔ covered by horizontally laid bricks. They create a kind of sieve that delays the release of heat directly into the pipe. The duct walls not only direct the heated air in the desired direction, but also significantly increase the internal surface area of the oven. These factors increase the efficiency of the heating structure, which leads to greater heat transfer. It is also facilitated by a valve installed in the upper part of the building, which regulates the release of warm air into the pipe.

For this stove model you will need the following materials:

Red fire brick - 407 pcs.
White fireclay brick SHA-8 — 197 pcs.
Fire door 210×250 mm - 1 pc.
Cleaning doors 140×140 mm - 2 pcs.
Grate 250×252 mm - 1 pc.
Chimney damper 130×250 mm - 1 pc.
Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox, size 500 × 700 mm - 1 piece; ceramic tiles can be laid instead of the sheet.

Prices for ready-made fireboxes for brick kilns

Firebox for brick kilns

Order of the Bykov furnace

The furnace is laid on a foundation prepared for it, which should have a size larger than the base of the furnace by 100 ÷ 120 mm in each direction. The height of the foundation should be two rows of masonry below the finished floor. Before starting masonry, it is covered with a layer of waterproofing - roofing felt.

Order	Description of work
	This diagram shows two zero rows, which are located below the finished floor level. Each row will require 22 red bricks.
	Masonry located on the same level as the finished floor, as well as a metal sheet mounted in front of the firebox. The floor surface around the stove is covered with heat-resistant ceramic tiles.
	1st row - the blower chamber is formed. Hewn bricks are installed at the entrance to it, which facilitates the removal of combustion waste. To lay this row you need 21 bricks.
	Row 2 - when laying it, the blower door is installed and the chamber itself continues to form. To lay this row you will need 20 bricks.
	Row 3 - the blower chamber continues to form. The wire attached to the door lugs is embedded in the masonry seams. For a row you will need 19 whole bricks and 2 ⅓ bricks, which are laid near the installed door.
	4th row - the front part of the blower chamber is covered with bricks along with the installed door. At the rear of the structure, the base of the rotary well begins to form. This row will take 12 whole, 6 ¾ and 2 ½ bricks.
	Row 5 - the base of the fuel chamber is formed from fireclay bricks above the ash chamber. Hewn bricks are laid in the front and rear parts of the base, along which combustion waste will slide into the ash-blower chamber through a grate installed on the same row. There must be a gap of 5 mm between it and the bricks. The fuel chamber door is mounted on the same row. You will need 17 whole and two ⅓ bricks.
	Row 6 - the walls of the fuel chamber begin to form, the smoke exhaust well continues to be laid out. 11 pieces of fireclay bricks are used.
	Row 7 - the chimney well is divided in two by two bricks. The bricks above the well must be hewn. As a result of the masonry, the base of two vertical channels is formed - ascending and descending. IN this series 11 whole, 2 ½ and 4 cut obliquely across the entire width of fireclay bricks were used.
	The 8th row is laid according to the pattern, repeating the previous one, the only difference is the direction of the brick. It will take 15 bricks per row.
	Row 9 - the door of the fuel chamber is blocked with two bricks. This row will require 16 fireclay bricks. The back of the stove is placed according to the diagram.
	Row 10 - bricks are laid according to the pattern, observing their direction. This row requires 16 bricks.
	Row 11 - the brick on the back wall of the firebox and at the entrance to the descending channel must be hewn from above, otherwise the work is carried out according to the scheme. A row will require 12 whole, 2 ½ and 4 ¾ fireclay bricks.
	Row 12 - the descending smoke exhaust duct and the fuel chamber are being combined. For a row you need 13 whole and 2 ½ fireclay bricks.
	The 13th row is laid according to the presented diagram, and it uses 10 whole, 2 ½ and 4 ¾ fireclay bricks.
	The 14th row is also laid according to the scheme; you will need 10 whole and 6 ¾ bricks.
	Row 15 - using prepared bricks, ¾ in size, a narrowing of the fuel chamber, combined with a descending channel, is arranged. The total number of bricks used is 7 whole and 14 pieces in ¾.
	Row 16 - bricks completely block the combined downward channel and the fuel chamber. This and the next row divide the structure into two parts - the gas-air upper part and the lower fuel part. For a row, 17 whole, 4 ¾ and 2 ½ bricks are used.
	The 17th row is laid out from red brick. A hole in the ascending channel is left in it, and bricks cut diagonally are mounted along its edges. 14 whole, 6 ¾ and 2 ½ bricks are used.
	Row 18 - a horizontal furnace channel is formed; it is the basis for the installation of five channels that will run vertically. The cleaning chamber door is installed on the same row. For a row you need 8 whole, 2 - ½, 2 - ¼ and 4 ¾ bricks.
	Row 19 - the formation of the first vertical channel, the upper part of the structure, is underway. It will be a continuation of the ascending channel of the lower combustion part of the furnace. The bricks forming this channel must be cut diagonally from below. 11 whole and 4 ¾ bricks are used.
	Row 20 - the second vertical channel begins to form in the same way as the first. Half a brick is mounted between the first and second channels. This part in this row and in subsequent ones has a dual purpose - it is the basis for the next row and forms windows in the masonry for heat exchange with the walls and maintaining normal draft. A row uses 7 whole, 3 ½ and 8 ¾ bricks.
	Row 21 - the third, fourth and fifth channels are formed in it. The bricks laid at the base of the walls separating the channels are cramped from below, as in previous cases. For a row you will need 11 whole, 5 ½ and 4 ¾ bricks.
	The 22nd row is placed according to the pattern, observing the formation of channels. For a row you need 11 whole and 4 pieces of ½ and ¾ bricks, for a total of 17 pieces.
	The 23rd row is also laid according to the pattern and for it you need to prepare 12 whole, 4 ½ and 4 ¾ bricks.
	Row 24 - on this row the laying of the wall between the second and first vertical channels is completed. The top brick in the wall is cut diagonally from the two upper sides. A row will require 9 whole, 3 ½ and 8 ¾ bricks. A total of 18 bricks need to be used, some of which split in two.
	Row 25 - this is where the laying of the wall between the second and third vertical channels is completed. The top brick in the wall from above is pressed together on both sides. For masonry you will need 10 whole, 4 ¾ and 5 ½ bricks.
	Row 26 - completion of the wall laying between the third and fourth vertical channels. The top brick of the wall is also trimmed on both sides. You need to prepare 10 whole, 4 ¾ and 4 ½ bricks.
	Row 27 - the work follows the pattern, and it requires 9 whole, 4 ¾ and 4 ½ bricks.
	Row 28 - it uses bricks made ¾ of a solid brick - they form a horizontal channel for flue gases, which is called a cap. For a row, 4 whole pieces are used, 14 pieces - ¾, 4 hewn obliquely along the entire thickness.
	Row 29 - in it the channel formed in the previous row is completely blocked, with the exception of the opening left for the chimney pipe. To lay it you will need 17 whole, 4 - ¾ and 2 - ½ bricks.
	Row 30 is also laid out solid, according to the pattern, except for the opening for the chimney. It uses 6 whole and 20 ¾ bricks.
	31 rows are laid out according to the pattern and 17 whole, 4 ¾ and 2 ½ bricks are prepared for it.
	Row 32 - the first row of the chimney begins to be laid out; it will require 5 whole bricks.

Stove-fireplace "Swedish" A. Ryazankina

The Swedish type heating and cooking stove is quite popular due to its efficiency. Its design promotes rapid heating of rooms and allows you not only to heat the house, but also to cook dinner.

Appearance of the “Swedish” Ryazankin

Such a stove is usually installed between the kitchen and the living area of the house, positioning it in such a way that the hob and oven are turned towards the kitchen. In some Swedish designs, a fireplace is provided on the side intended for heating the living room or bedroom. It is this option that is worth considering, since it is perfect for both spacious and small buildings, and, as you know, many owners of private houses dream of a fireplace in one of the living rooms.

This stove model is heated with wood, has dimensions of 1020 × 890 mm around the perimeter and 2170 mm in height excluding the pipe. In this case, it is also necessary to provide that the fireplace portal will protrude beyond the building by 130 mm. The foundation must be larger than the size of the furnace base and be 1040 × 1020. The power of the Shvedka reaches 3000 kcal/hour.

To build this stove model, you will need the following materials:

Red brick, excluding pipe laying - 714 pcs.
Blower door 140×140 mm - 1 pc.
Door for combustion chamber 210×250 mm - 1 pc.
Door for cleaning chambers 140×140 mm - 8 pcs.
Oven 450×360×300 mm – 1 pc.
Two-burner cast iron stove 410×710 mm - 1 pc.
Grate 200×300 mm – 1 pc.
Chimney damper 130×250 mm - 3 pcs.
Steel corner 50×50×5×1020 mm – 2 pcs.
Steel strip 50×5×920 mm – 3 pcs.
Steel strip 50×5×530 mm – 2 pcs.
Steel strip 50×5×480 mm – 2 pcs.
A fireplace grate can be made independently from reinforcing bars.
Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox 500×700 mm - 1 pc.
Asbestos sheet or cord for laying between metal elements and masonry bricks.

Furnace laying

The presented diagrams show in detail the location of all cast iron elements of the fireplace stove, and a description of the masonry will help to avoid mistakes at some rather complex stages of work.

Experienced master masons recommend laying the entire stove first dry, that is, without mortar, adhering to the diagram and understanding the configuration of each of the rows. This process is especially important for beginners who are barely familiar with the work of a stove maker.

Another trick experienced craftsmen is the preliminary adjustment and laying of each of the rows without mortar during the work process. Any row is first laid out, and, if necessary, individual bricks are cut or trimmed, and then they are laid on the mortar.

This approach will slow down the work somewhat, but will allow it to be completed much better, without errors that could negatively affect the creation of normal traction.

When doing masonry, you need to keep at hand not only a diagram of each of the rows, but also a sectional drawing of the stove. It will also help - it will allow you to imagine all the channels passing inside and the design of the fireboxes.

So, the laying is done as follows:

Order - from 1st to 6th row

The first, continuous row of the stove is laid on onlaid to ready roofing felt foundation. It is very important to lay out the row perfectly evenly and correctly, since the quality of the masonry of the entire structure will depend on it. Therefore, first you should mark the roofing material sheet using a ruler, square and chalk, drawing on it the shape of the stove base, observing the dimensions. Then, based on the diagram and observing the configuration of the brick laying, the first row is assembled dry, and then the laying is done with mortar.
2nd row. It contains metal elements consisting of segments of reinforcement, onto which the fireplace grate will later be fixed by welding, or this decorative element will be completely installed. The rest of the masonry is carried out according to the scheme.
3rd row. At this stage, the doors of the first cleaning and blowing chamber are installed, pre-wrapped with asbestos rope or lined with pieces of asbestos. To fix the doors in place, wire is used, which is threaded into special loops-ears of the cast-iron frame. Next, the wire is placed in the seams of the masonry, where it is secured with mortar and pressed against the top row of bricks. Temporarily, until final fastening, the doors are supported on both sides with bricks.

4 row. The work proceeds according to the scheme, but the row is notable for the fact that the doors on both sides are fixed with masonry, which must be placed perfectly evenly. The seams in this area can be two to three millimeters wider due to the wire embedded in them.
It is recommended to lay out the 5th row using fireclay fire-resistant bricks, just like all the walls of the combustion chamber. On the same row, a grate and an oven box are mounted, which is wrapped or lined with asbestos to prevent premature burnout.

6th row. On this row, a combustion door is installed, wrapped in asbestos cord, and with pieces of wire fixed in it.

7th row. The masonry is carried out according to the scheme; a steel strip is mounted above the laid out walls of the fireplace, which will serve as a support for the next row of masonry. It is laid flat or in the form of a semi-arch, giving it the desired shape in advance.
Rows 8 and 9 are laid out according to the diagram presented.
10 row. The front wall of the stove is strengthened, since a cast iron hob will be installed later in this part of the building. A steel corner is secured to the wall using two wire hooks, then pieces of asbestos sheet are laid in place of the slab installation, and the slab itself is installed. The door of another cleaning chamber is fixed in the same row.
Rows 11 and 12 are laid out according to the pattern without installing metal elements. On the twelfth row, the cleaning chamber door is closed.

Order - from 13 to 24 row

From 13 to 15 rows are laid according to the developed pattern, strictly adhering to the brick laying configuration.
16th row. The construction of the walls of the chamber located above is completed. hob, which is covered with metal strips. They will serve as the basis for laying bricks in the next row.
Rows 17 and 18 are laid according to the pattern.
19 row. At this stage, two more cleaning chambers are installed, which are secured in the same way as the previous ones.
Rows 20 and 21 are placed according to the pattern.
22 row. Two more cleaning chamber doors are being installed.
23 row. The masonry proceeds according to the scheme.
24 row. The chimney valve is being installed, the frame of which is installed on the solution.

25 row. Next to the first, on the adjacent chimney channel, a second chimney valve is mounted.
26 row. The cleaning chamber door is being installed.
From 27 to 30 rows are laid out according to the pattern.
31 row. At this stage, the third and final chimney valve is installed.
32-33 rows. In this area of the structure there is a transition to laying out a pipe that rises to the ceiling.

When passing the pipe through attic floor, it is necessary to isolate flammable materials of construction from it. To do this, a metal box with sides with a height greater than the thickness of the ceiling by 100 ÷ 120 mm is installed around the chimney. This “difference” remains in the attic.

If the walls of the furnace are not covered with decorative material, then when laying bricks, the still wet mortar in the seams is embroidered special tool, that is, it is given a neat convex or concave shape.

The Swedish stove can be supplemented with a warm stove bench. This interesting project shown on video.

Video: brick “Swedish” with a bed

And at the end of the article - one more good advice. Before you decide to self-construction ovens, without having sufficient experience in this work, it is recommended that you first practice the usual laying of bricks with mortar. Believe me, this process is not as simple as it seems at first glance. you can find out by following the link.

Evgeniy AfanasyevChief Editor

Author of the publication 27.08.2015

Brick stoves are very diverse. It’s hard to imagine a traditional country house or a Russian bathhouse. But they are also used in modern cottages. In addition, such products can be erected in a summer kitchen, garage, or greenhouse. What types of brick kilns are there, how they differ – we’ll look at them in more detail in this article.

How are the different types different?

The variety of brick products for heating is very large. They can run on wood, coal or other fuels. Act as a heating device only, or can also be used for cooking.

Products can be folded into a variety of shapes: round, square or complex architectural design. In terms of size, products range from very small models to large-scale multifunctional structures.

Various stove options mainly differ in the design of the chimneys:

Models with horizontal smoke channels.
Products with vertical channel design.
Counterflow chimneys.
Bell systems.
Combined options.

Stoves can be used only for heating, or have additional functions:

Hobs make it possible to cook food while the stove is on. But this design requires a smaller fuel compartment. In addition, the heat capacity of this model is much lower - a lot of heat is lost through the surface of the stove, the stove cools down faster.
The presence of an oven compartment makes the design more heat-intensive. Hot gases can only heat this compartment, or pass directly through it. In the latter case, you can use the oven only after all the wood has burned out.
Water pipes can be built into the stove. This design allows for heating throughout the entire house.

Can be combined various options stoves, combine them with fireplaces, or use them with a stove bench or heating panel. There are often two fuel compartments, each serving a specific purpose.

Tunnel stove options

Tunnel brick ovens can be made with vertical or horizontal smoke channels.

Horizontal smoke channels

Hot gases in this type of stove give off their heat along the way to the chimney. It is necessary to provide a cleaning door on each channel, since soot and ash settle on the horizontal surface in large quantities.

To increase the heat transfer of gases, you can also make special heat pockets. By increasing the internal area of the channel, the speed of movement of hot air through them is reduced. Consequently, the stove becomes more heat-intensive.

This chimney system is not particularly popular.

Vertical smoke channels

A design with this arrangement of channels prevents the free movement of gases inside the chimney. This often leads to overheating of the first channel. In addition, in this case it is necessary to build a higher chimney than with a horizontal scheme.

But this option has serious advantages: due to the large height of the structure, it is less susceptible to air blowing. This way the stove becomes more heat-intensive.

The main difference between counterflow designs and models with vertical channels is that the hole where the gases fall has a wider cross-section. They move at a lower speed, managing to transfer more heat to the brick walls.

Combined smoke exhaust systems

Combinations are often used various systems. This makes it possible to use all the advantages of each design and get rid of its disadvantages for individual design. There are a lot of options for this combination.

Not all designs are suitable for the device heating stoves. Some of them are used to construct simple fireplaces.

Bell system

Bell-type brick furnaces are based on the principle of free movement of gases under the influence of gravity. Inside the structure there is a kind of cap, where incoming gases rise upward and transmit thermal energy brickwork. As they cool down, they gradually descend and exit into the chimney.

This type of stove has many advantages over tunnel options:

Even after the fuel has finished burning in the stove, there remains enough hot air under the hood, which gives off heat for a long time.
In this design there is no need for a high chimney.
Heat is not blown away in strong winds.
You can build a product of any shape and size.
This design is suitable for stoves operating on various types of fuel.
The efficiency of such stoves is much higher than that of other gas outlet systems.
These models are more economical in terms of fuel consumption.
This design produces a small amount of soot, so it does not require frequent cleaning.

Several caps can be made. Thus, the heat transfer of gases will be significantly higher. There are several types of such furnaces, but they all work on the same principle. A two-bell brick stove is a very efficient heater.

Dutch oven

The Dutch brick oven is the simplest brick oven. The great advantage of this design is that it takes up little space.

Very small models have a size of 0.5 x 0.5 m. And although quite a lot of more efficient heating products have now appeared, the Dutch have not lost their popularity.

The advantages of such a stove:

The large surface area of the structure heats up quickly and cools down slowly, which allows you to maintain it indoors for a long time. comfortable temperature.
The small size of this product does not require a lot of bricks. Therefore, the price of this model is quite low.
Such a stove does not require a powerful base, since its weight is much less than that of conventional models.
Ease of operation, maintenance and repair.
You can build a product that will heat even a building of several floors. Two-story brick Dutch ovens can be made with your own hands.

Round brick oven - "Dutch" - device diagram

This model is applicable both for permanent use and for houses with periodic residence. It is easy to melt even after a long period of inactivity. The main disadvantage of the “Dutch” is its demandingness regarding fuel quality. Often these products are made in a round shape.

Finnish stove

Finnish brick kilns got their name due to their fairly widespread use in Scandinavian countries. Their popularity in Russia is explained by the similarity of the climate and requirements for heating products. They belong to the bell type; the room is heated by heat transfer from the massive body of the stove.

The advantages of this type include:

The ease of the device of this design;
Light weight;
The cost of such a model is quite budget-friendly;
It has good heat transfer, traction and high efficiency;
Due to the presence of a large firebox, it heats up quickly;
A correctly folded structure is very aesthetically pleasing.

Typically, such products are installed in the center of the room.

Long burning stoves

Brick oven long burning has its own design features and operating principle. It allows you to maintain a comfortable temperature in the room for quite a long time. Moreover, there is no need to add fuel.

The design of such a stove requires the presence of:

Large fuel chamber - on long time you need to load a lot of firewood.
Large ash compartment.
Tightly closing combustion chamber door.
Adjustable chimney damper.

You can build long-burning brick stoves with your own hands if you understand the principle of their operation:

First of all, it is necessary to heat the combustion chamber to the desired temperature. At the same time, the chimney warms up and the combustion process normalizes. To do this, 4-5 kg of wood is burned in rapid mode.
To warm up the room and get required amount coal, within 1-1.5 hours the same amount of fuel is burned in normal mode.
The final stage is to fully load the firebox with wood. It closes tightly, blocking the chimney for minimal oxygen access. The fuel will slowly smolder for 10-12 hours to maintain the required temperature in the house.

Important! If the air access is very large, then long-term combustion will not work. Also, open fire should not be allowed in the firebox.

Pyrolysis structures

Very interesting view Long-burning furnaces with a virtually waste-free operating principle are pyrolysis models. To obtain thermal energy they use not only traditional types fuel - firewood, fuel briquettes, coal, but also the gas that is formed during combustion. This type The stove operates using a gas generator system.

How to make a pyrolysis oven from brick? It is best to take ready-made design diagrams and drawings as a basis. Making your own calculations is quite difficult.

Coal options

Despite the widespread various types solid fuel boilers, many owners of private houses prefer to install brick stoves that run on coal.

And there are explanations for this:

When coal is burned in the combustion chamber, the temperature can rise to 1000 °C. Hardware Over time they burn out and collapse. Refractory bricks for the stove will last much longer.
Brickwork withstands temperature changes better.
The stove accumulates heat well and releases it long after the coal has died out.
To heat the room, a water heating system is not required.

Coal brick stoves have many advantages - photo

Since the combustion temperature of coal is higher than that of wood, it is more profitable to use such products for heating houses.

Even the simplest brick stove, if built correctly, can not only effectively heat a house. It will also create a special microclimate in the room, which has a beneficial effect on human health.

The choice of models is very diverse. Everyone will be able to choose a product according to their individual requirements and taking into account the specific parameters of their home. More information on this topic can be found in the video in this article: “Pyrolysis brick oven.”

Cooking stoves include stoves various designs. They come in various sizes and are used only for cooking. Kitchen stoves are connected to main or top pipes.

Brick kitchen slabs

Based on their design, kitchen stoves can be divided into simple, medium and complex.

A simple kitchen stove has a combustion and blower doors, a grate and a smoke damper. It is the simplest of all household stoves.

Kitchen stoves of average complexity have, in addition to the above-mentioned stove appliances, an oven, and complex ones also have a hot water box. Ovens are made of black steel with a thickness of at least 1 mm, and hot water boxes are made of galvanized steel. The casing of the water heating box is made of black steel with a thickness of at least 1 mm. The thicker the steel, the more durable the devices.

Stove with two-burner stove and oven

In a simple cookstove, hot flue gases from the firebox are directed under the cast iron stove and then discharged through an opening under the chimney into the chimney.

In other kitchen stoves, hot flue gases are directed under the cast-iron stove and then, descending, heat the walls of the oven or one wall of the water-heating box, and then are discharged into the pipe, while heating the bottom wall of the oven, the bottom and the other wall of the water-heating box.

The above-mentioned kitchen stoves do not have a cooking chamber, therefore, during cooking, steam and odor are released into the room, which negatively affects the microclimate of the room. This article provides drawings of sections and ordering of a kitchen stove of an improved design, which includes a cooking chamber connected to a pipe using a ventilation duct closed by a ventilation valve.

Simple kitchen stove

A simple kitchen stove has dimensions, mm: 1160x510x630 (without foundation, i.e. without two rows of brickwork on the floor).

To lay a kitchen stove, the following materials are required:

red brick - 120 pcs.;
red clay - 50 kg;
sand - 40 kg;
grate - 28×25 cm;
fire door - 25×21 cm;
blower door - 25×14 cm;
cast iron stove for two burners - 70×40 cm;
slab trim (angle 30x30x4 mm) -3.5 m;
roofing steel sheet under the slab - 1160×510 mm;
construction felt - 1 kg;

One stove maker can build a simple kitchen stove within 3 hours (not counting the laying of the chimney); in addition, it takes 1.5 hours to carry the material and prepare the clay-sand solution. To erect a chimney, you need Extra time: depending on its height, you need to calculate the time at the rate of half an hour per 1 m of pipe laying (when laying a pipe in a quarter of a brick).

The heat output of a simple kitchen stove when cooking food twice a day is about 0.7-0.8 kW (660-700 kcal/h).

The figure below shows vertical and horizontal sections of a simple kitchen stove. Next, masonry drawings will be given in rows (orders). From the sections and drawings of the masonry along the rows it is clear that the masonry of a simple kitchen stove does not present any difficulties.

Simple cuts kitchen oven: a - facade; b - section A-A (longitudinal vertical section of the furnace); V - section B-B(transverse vertical section). Designations: 1- firebox; 2 - ash chamber; 3 - grate; 4 - smoke valve; 5 - cast iron plate (flooring).

Before you start laying a simple kitchen stove, you should purchase the necessary stove equipment.

Having prepared the clay-sand mortar, proceed to laying a simple kitchen stove. If the slab is placed on a foundation, then level it upward. When laying the slab on wooden floor it is necessary to cut a sheet of roofing steel to the size of the slab. Place a layer of sheet asbestos on the floor, and if it is not available, two layers of construction felt, well soaked in a clay-sand solution, cover everything with a sheet of roofing steel and nail it to the floor. Then a platform is made from a whole brick in two rows of masonry on clay-sand mortar. After this, they begin laying the slabs from the first row strictly in order.

First row laid, observing the rules for bandaging seams from selected whole bricks, as indicated in the figure below. The completed masonry is checked for squareness.

First row of a simple kitchen stove

During laying second row arrange a ash pit, install a blow-off door, which is attached to the masonry using furnace wire. Temporarily, the blower door at the front can be supported by bricks, which are stacked on the floor in front of the blower door. The bottom of the ash chamber is 380×250 mm.

Second row of kitchen stove

Third row similar to the previous one, but the seams should be well bandaged.

Third row

Fourth row covers the ash door, leaving only a hole in the ash chamber measuring 250×250 mm, on which the grate is placed. If possible, it is advisable to lay the fourth row using refractory bricks, as shown in the figure below.

Laying the fourth row. The shaded bricks are fireproof. The arrows indicate the direction of movement of hot flue gases in the heating furnace.

Fifth row forms a firebox measuring 510×250 mm. The brick adjacent to the back of the grate is cut off to form an inclined plane along which the fuel will roll onto the grate (see section B-B along A-A). When laying this row, you need to install a firebox door, having previously attached roofing steel legs to it using rivets.

Laying the fifth row of the furnace

Sixth row laid in the same way as the previous one, but the seams should be bandaged.

Laying the sixth row of the furnace

Seventh row placed according to the figure below. This is where a chimney is left under the stove, connecting the firebox to the chimney.

Seventh row of the oven

Eighth row performed strictly horizontally, with this row blocking the combustion door. A cast iron slab is laid on the eighth row laid out using a thin layer of clay-sand mortar. Factory-made cast iron slabs have protrusions or stiffeners on the bottom side that extend 15 mm from the edges of the slabs.

Eighth row of the oven

The internal dimensions of the eighth row of masonry must be such that the slab fits freely there with its ribs and has a gap on all sides of at least 5 mm, intended for the expansion of the metal when it is heated. If you do not comply with this, the cast iron stove, expanding, will destroy the stove masonry. To ensure that the masonry is strong, a frame made of angle steel is laid on the eighth row. It is advisable to cover the frame with fireproof varnish, which protects the steel from rust.

After laying ninth row Using a thin layer of clay-sand mortar, install a smoke damper. This row is the final one, followed by the laying of the chimney.

The final row of a simple kitchen stove

The kitchen stove works as follows. Flue gases from the firebox enter under the cast-iron stove, then through a hole under the pipe through a smoke valve they are discharged into the chimney.
The kitchen stove does not have a cleaning hole, since you can clean the chimney through the hole under the pipe, where you can easily stick your hand through the burner of the cast-iron stove.

An example of laying a hob

Firstly, in a kitchen stove the fire door is installed at the same level as the grate. In the stove, flue gases constantly maintain a high temperature in the chimney, as a result of which it is not necessary to lay thick fuel on the grate. Secondly, with this installation of the fire door, the distance from the grate to the cast iron stove will be only 280 mm, which makes it possible to quickly cook food even with low fuel consumption.

After finishing laying the furnace, it must be dried by opening the furnace and blower doors and the valve in the pipe.

The longer the oven dries, the stronger the masonry will be. The kitchen stove can be dried using small test fires, but after the test fires, the valve in the pipe and the blower door must be left open.

After complete drying, the kitchen stove is plastered with clay-sand mortar, followed by whitewashing.

Exterior finishing is best done as follows: after laying the eighth row and installing the cast iron slab, as well as before installing the corner steel frame, the kitchen slab is walled up on all sides in a case made of roofing steel (galvanized steel can be used). Pre-cut the corresponding holes according to the size of the combustion and blower doors. The case is secured to the floor using a plinth, which is nailed around the slab. The outer surface of the case is cleaned and coated with oven varnish, which can withstand high temperatures well.

In front of the combustion door, the pre-furnace sheet is nailed to the floor with nails 50 mm apart from one another. If the plinth was nailed earlier, then the pre-furnace sheet must be folded onto the plinth.

Kitchen stove with oven

The kitchen stove with oven has dimensions, mm: 1290x640x560 (without foundation, i.e. without two rows of brickwork on the floor).
To lay a kitchen stove with oven, the following materials are required:

red brick - 140 pcs.;
red clay - 60 kg;
sand - 50 kg;
grate - 26×25 cm;
fire door - 25×21 cm;
blower door - 14×25 cm;
cleaning doors 130×140 mm - 2 pcs.;
cast iron stove made of five composite plates measuring 53x18 cm with two burners;
smoke valve - 130×130 mm;
oven - 45x31x28 cm;
slab binding (angle 30x30x4 mm) - 4 m;
roofing steel pre-furnace sheet - 500×700 mm;
roofing steel sheet under the slab - 1290×640 mm;
construction felt - 1.2 kg;
metal box for collecting ash in the ash chamber - 350x230x100 mm.

One stove maker can put this stove together within 3-4 hours; in addition, it takes about 2 hours to carry the material and prepare the clay-sand solution. The heat transfer of the stove when cooking food twice a day is about 0.8 kW (770 kcal/h). The figure below shows a general view, longitudinal and cross sections of a kitchen stove with an oven. Below are the order drawings for each row. Laying a kitchen stove with an oven is also not difficult and is similar to laying a simple kitchen stove, but here you have to install an oven and cleaning doors.

Kitchen stove with oven: a - general view; b - sections A-A, B-B (vertical sections), B-C, D-G (horizontal sections). Designations: 1 - ash chamber; 2 - grate; 3 - firebox; 4 - cast iron plate; 5 - oven; 6 - smoke valve; 7 - combustion door; 8 - blower door; 9 - cleaning holes.

When laying slabs on an independent foundation, before starting work, level its top with a layer of clay-sand mortar.

When installing a slab on the floor, before starting to lay the first row, it is necessary to carry out the same work as when laying a simple kitchen stove.

Masonry first row made from selected whole bricks, strictly adhering to the rules of bandaging the seams. The length of the kitchen stove should correspond to the length of five bricks, the width - to the length of 2.5 bricks. Using a cord, check the equality of the diagonals.

Laying the first row of a kitchen stove with an oven

Second row laid out strictly following the order. Here an ash chamber measuring 380×250 mm is left, a blower door is installed and secured, and cleaning holes are left on the back wall (the width of the holes should be equal to the width of the brick, i.e. 12 cm). If possible, cleanout doors measuring 130×140 mm are installed. At the cleanout hole at the farthest from the ash chamber, a brick is laid on its edge, as shown in the masonry order. For better fastening ovens, in the middle of the place where it is installed, place half a brick on the edge.

Laying the second row of the slab

Third row similar to the previous one, only you must follow the rule of ligating the seams.

Laying the third row of the slab

Fourth row covers the blower and cleanout doors. After finishing the laying of the fourth row on thin layer Using clay-sand mortar, an oven is installed in a pre-marked place. After this, a grate is installed. With the same brick installed on the edge, the chimney into the chimney is blocked.

Laying the fourth row of the stove with oven

During laying fifth row The combustion door is installed and fastened, the brick is cut off before installation behind the grate so that the fuel gradually rolls onto the grate during the combustion process.

Laying the fifth row of the slab

Sixth row looks like the fifth one.

Laying the sixth row of the slab

Seventh row laid out in order. The resulting chimney channel from the front side is laid with three bricks, as a result of which inner size the resulting channel under the chimney will be 130x130 mm. In the image of this row near the oven, a steam pipe with a diameter of 10 mm and a length of 160 mm is visible, which connects the oven to the ascending duct. This pipe is designed to remove steam and odor.

Laying the seventh row of the stove with oven. The arrows indicate the direction of movement of hot flue gases in the heating furnace.

Eighth row perform strictly horizontally in level. This row covers the oven and the fire door. The upper wall of the oven is coated with a layer of clay mortar up to 10-
15 mm, which will protect the oven from rapid burning.

Laying the eighth row of a brick oven (before installing a cast iron stove)

In this case, it is necessary that the distance between the top of the clay coating and the cast iron plate is at least 70 mm. After this, a cast iron slab and lining made of angle steel are installed on a thin layer of clay-sand mortar.

Eighth row of brick oven (after installing the cast iron stove)

After laying ninth row All that remains is the laying of the vertical channel. The ninth row is placed according to the image below.

Ninth row of the oven

After laying tenth row install a smoke damper.

Tenth row of the oven

Masonry eleventh row start the chimney. Further laying of the pipe does not present any difficulties.

The final row of the furnace (the masonry of the chimney is not taken into account)

A kitchen stove and oven works like this. From the firebox, flue gases are directed under the cast-iron stove, from where they, heating the oven from behind on both sides, fall under the oven and are directed to the hole under the chimney. Rising through a vertical channel, they enter the chimney through a smoke valve and are released into the atmosphere.

Kitchen stove with oven and hot water box

To lay a kitchen stove with an oven and a hot water box measuring 1290x640 mm, the same materials are required as for the previous stove. Additionally, you should purchase a water heating box measuring 510x280x120 mm.

The figure below shows a general view, a horizontal section along A-A and a vertical section along B-B of the slab.

Kitchen stove with oven and hot water box: a - general view; b - cuts. Definitions: 1 - firebox; 2 - cast iron plate; 3 - oven; 4 - water heating box; 5 - smoke valve; 6 - ash chamber; 7 - angle steel harness

A kitchen stove with an oven and a hot water box is placed in the same order as a kitchen stove with an oven. The only difference is that after laying the third row, instead of a brick partition, a water-heating box in a case is installed on the edge between the oven and the vertical channel. The height of the hot water box should correspond to the height of four rows of flat brickwork. The rest of the masonry is completely similar to the masonry of a kitchen stove with an oven.

Kitchen stove with oven and hot water box of improved design

In rural areas, kitchen stoves are used not only to prepare food for people, but also to cook feed for livestock and boil laundry when washing. During combustion, a lot of steam enters the room and extraneous unpleasant odors are released. Because of this, the air humidity in the room increases, which negatively affects its microclimate. Therefore, to remove foreign odors and steam from kitchen stoves, it is advisable to provide a cooking chamber, which is connected to the chimney using a ventilation duct. A ventilation valve must be installed in the ventilation duct.

Installing a double door in the cooking chamber allows you to keep food hot for a long time and thus prevent it from souring.

Cooking chamber in a brick oven

The firebox and ash chamber (ash chamber) are closed from the outside with appropriate doors. The upper surface of the oven is protected from hot gases by a layer of clay mortar 10-12 cm thick. It is advisable to lay the stove from the fourth to the ninth row from refractory bricks (especially the firebox).

An example of covering an ash pit

It is advisable to make the kitchen slab up to the ninth row of masonry from sheet steel, and to enhance its strength, after installing the frame on a clay-sand mortar, install a frame made of angle steel. Since the mass of such a slab will be more than one ton, it is installed on an independent foundation.

If it is impossible to construct an independent foundation, the floor must be strengthened with additional beams, which are mounted on brick columns. Instead of brick pillars, you can use pillars made of hardwood logs, reinforced concrete pillars, iron pipes with a cross section of at least 180-200 mm.

The kitchen stove has an improved design and is equipped with a “direct” valve. During prolonged heating of the stove, evaporation of water in the water heating box is possible. To stop this you need to add a little cold water and open the “direct” valve. In this case, the flue gases from under the cast iron stove do not go down, but immediately go into the chimney. As a result, the water heating box stops warming up and the evaporation of water in it stops.

Example of a “direct” valve

To make it easier to clean the ash chamber from ash, a special roofing steel box measuring 350x230x100 mm is installed in it. This prevents contamination of the room when cleaning the ash chamber from ash.

A kitchen stove of this design has the following advantages compared to the previous kitchen stove with oven and hot water box:

during cooking, steam and foreign odors do not enter the room, which are removed into the atmosphere through the ventilation hole;
food cooked on the stove in the cooking chamber remains hot for a long time and does not sour during the day;
With the help of a “direct” valve, it is possible to cook food without warming up the water heating box and thereby preventing further evaporation of the water in it.

The figure below shows a general view of the kitchen stove from the front; here are also drawings of sections of the stove in the most difficult places. Layout drawings along the rows will follow, and they give a comprehensive idea of internal structure slabs Using the orders and drawings for the rows, you can fold the slab yourself, without the help of a stove maker.

Kitchen stove with oven and hot water box of improved design: a - facade; b - sections A-A, B-B, c - sections B-C, D-G, D-D, E-E. Definitions: 1 - blower door; 2 - combustion door; 3 - oven; 4 - cooking chamber door; 5 - smoke valve; 6 - ventilation valve; 7 - “direct” valve; 8 - water heating box; 9 - cleaning holes; 10 - cast iron stove.

A kitchen stove with an oven and a hot water box of improved design has dimensions, mm: 1290x640x1330.

The following materials are required for masonry:

red brick - 250 pcs.;
fireproof brick - 80 pcs.;
red clay - 180 kg;
sand - 90 kg;
combustion door - 250×210 mm;
blower door - 250×140 mm;
grate - 280×250 mm;
oven measuring 250x280x450 mm;
cast iron stove with two burners - 700×400 mm;
water heating box - 250x140x510 mm;
pre-furnace sheet - 500×700 mm;
strip steel measuring 400x250x6 mm;
door to the cooking chamber - 750x350x5 mm;
corner steel for tying a slab measuring 30x30x3 mm - 4.1 m;
strip steel for covering the cooking chamber measuring 450x45x4 mm - 4 pcs.

A stove can be assembled by one stove-maker in 18-20 hours; preparing the solution and carrying the material requires an additional 6 hours.

To fold the stove with the firebox on the left side, you need to look at the drawings using a mirror placed edge-on on the drawing.

The kitchen stove is laid out as follows. Masonry first row produced on a foundation built to floor level. The first row determines the main dimensions of the slab. The length of the slab is equal to the length of a laying of five bricks in clay-sand mortar, and the width is equal to the length of 2.5 bricks.

First row of improved cooker with oven and hot water box

During laying second row two cleaning doors and a blower door are installed in front. They are attached to the masonry using furnace wire.

Laying the second row of the furnace; 1 - blower door, 9 - cleaning holes.

Masonry third row produced according to the order, it is similar to the previous row. After laying the third row, a water heating box is installed.

Laying the third row of the furnace; 11 - steel sheet 3 mm thick.

Firebox fourth row they are laid from refractory brick; in its absence, sorted first-class red brick is used. The fourth row covers the cleaning holes and the blower door, forming the beginning of the hearth. After laying the fourth row, the grate and oven are installed.

Laying the fourth row of the furnace

Masonry fifth row presents no difficulties. The brick adjacent to the back of the grate is cut off halfway to form an inclined plane.

Laying the fifth row of the furnace; 3 - oven.

Before masonry sixth row prepare the combustion door, for which strip steel is attached to the top and bottom with rivets, which should be 10 cm longer than the combustion door on both sides. For greater strength, the ends of the strip steel are screwed with furnace wire, the ends of which are embedded in the masonry. The door is installed on a clay-sand mortar, having previously wrapped the frame of the combustion door with asbestos fiber.

Laying the sixth row

Masonry seventh row secure the base of the combustion door.

Laying the seventh row

Eighth row blocks the water heating box.

Eighth row masonry

Ninth row covers the fire door and oven. The top of the oven is protected from burning through a layer of clay mortar 10-12 mm thick. It is advisable to lay this row entirely of refractory bricks.

Ninth row masonry

After finishing the laying of the ninth row, a cast iron slab is installed above the firebox on a clay-sand mortar. The large burner of the stove is placed above the firebox. Next to the main plate, an additional one is placed, made of a steel sheet measuring 400x200x6 mm. After this, angle steel is laid, to which the lower frame of the cooking chamber door is welded. For strength, it is advisable to tie the angle steel through special holes in it with furnace wire, which is attached to the masonry.

Installation of a cast iron stove on the ninth row; 12 - steel sheet 6 mm thick; 13 - angular steel.

Tenth row They are made of ordinary red brick. A window is left on the right side for cleaning the “direct” channel. Some of the bricks that cover the slab are cut with a pick before laying so that if the slab breaks, it can be easily replaced.

Laying the tenth row

Masonry eleventh row does not present any difficulties, you just need to follow the rules for dressing the seams.

Eleventh oven row

Twelfth row blocks the cleaning window.

Twelfth row of the oven

After laying Tthirteenth row a “direct” valve is installed on the clay-sand solution.

Thirteenth row of the oven; 6 - ventilation valve.

Masonry fourteenth row must correspond to the level of the upper frame of the door to the cooking chamber. Angle steel measuring 45x45x800 mm is installed next to the upper frame of the door to the cooking chamber.

Fourteenth row of the oven

Fifteenth row blocks the door to the cooking chamber.

Fifteenth oven row

Sixteenth row blocks the “direct” channel.

Laying the sixteenth row of a kitchen stove

Masonry seventeenth row provides ventilation duct to remove odors and steam from the cooking chamber.

Laying the seventeenth row of the kitchen stove

After finishing the masonry eighteenth row Four pieces of strip steel measuring 4x45x500 mm are installed above the cooking chamber to cover the cooking chamber.

Laying the eighteenth row of a kitchen stove

Nineteenth row covers the cooking chamber. After finishing the laying of this row, a ventilation valve is installed.

Laying the nineteenth row of the kitchen stove; 6 - ventilation valve.

Masonry twentieth and twenty-first rows is not difficult, you just need to bandage the seams well.

Laying the twentieth row of a kitchen stove

Laying the twenty-first row

Masonry twentysecond row reduces the size of the chimney, it will be 130x130 mm.

Laying the twenty-second row

Twenty-three and twenty-four ranks put in order.

Twenty-third row of the oven

Twenty-fourth row

After laying twenty fifth row install a smoke valve, which is also a control valve.

Laying the twenty-fifth row of the furnace; 5 - smoke valve.

Masonry twenty-sixth row start the chimney. Laying a chimney is not difficult.

Laying the final row (not counting the chimney)

After finishing the laying of the stove, before coating it, clean the chimneys from fallen mortar and crushed stone residues through cleaning holes. Holes for cleaning are then filled with brick halves in clay-sand mortar.

When installing the cleaning doors, they are closed tightly, and leaks are covered with clay-sand mortar.

After this, the stove can be dried in two ways: by opening the combustion and blower doors and valves, or by using small test fires. After complete drying, the slab is plastered with clay-sand mortar, and after drying the plaster, whitewashing is performed twice. A pre-furnace sheet is nailed to the floor in front of the fire door.

Do-it-yourself brick oven: step-by-step masonry instructions + photos