Cage for laying hens, dimensions, drawing, three-tier. Making a structure with an egg collector

Not so long ago, chicken cages were considered a necessity only in poultry farms and large farms. Today, many breeders who want to get more eggs from laying hens are thinking about such a purchase. Why is this happening? What are the advantages of keeping poultry indoors? How to make a cage with your own hands? Let's look into these issues.

Requirements for cages for chickens

Chickens are unpretentious birds, but for maximum productivity you need to take care of a place that is comfortable for them. It is especially important to properly equip cages for laying hens. There are several important points to consider here:

  1. The size of the cage must correspond to the number of birds. One individual of an egg-bearing breed should have up to 600 cm2. If the breed is egg-meat, then the space can be increased to 800 cm 2 per bird, since such varieties are usually large.
  2. Each cage should be equipped with a feeder and waterer for chickens.
  3. There should be no blank walls.
  4. The floor must be reliable, otherwise it will sag over time from the weight of the birds.
  5. The cage lattice should be strong, the cells should be small. This important requirement, since predators such as ferrets and weasels are able to fit into a fairly small hole. The largest cells are made in the front wall so that the chickens can stick their heads into them to eat; their approximate size is 5:10 cm.
  6. Special microclimate: the cage should always be warm and dry.

“Apartments” for raising chickens at home are installed indoors, for example, in a barn or chicken coop. In summer, it is possible to move the cells outside, but for this, the roofs of the structures should not allow moisture to pass through. To cover the cage with your own hands, in this case you can use slate or other inexpensive material.

Types of structures

Cages for chickens, depending on the capabilities of the breeder and the goals of breeding the birds, can be different. You can find the most incredible drawings of such structures, but all of them can be divided into the following types:

  1. With bedding. In this case, the floor is made blank and covered with straw or sawdust.
  2. With sloping floor and egg collector. This option involves a double floor, top part which is made of a lattice and has a slope. The lower part of the bottom is blank and is usually equipped retractable mechanism(pallet). This design allows you to keep the cage clean and dry. The eggs roll down an inclined floor and fall into a special chute. This cage option for chickens is the best because it reduces the time the laying hen has in contact with the egg.

Any type can be assembled with your own hands. Even novice farmers can cope with this task at home.

Typically, cages for laying hens are made into group cages. The cage is designed for 7 – 10 individuals; in large farms this figure can be much higher. A cage battery for laying hens is suitable for a very large flock. It consists of cells in several rows and floors; it can also be assembled at home.

Pros and cons of cage keeping

  1. Restricted movement. Chickens are active birds; they feel oppressed in a confined space, so the period of egg production may decrease.
  2. Lack of sun. Natural ultraviolet irradiation allows vitamin D to be synthesized; when kept indoors, it must be given in the form of food supplements.
  3. Dietary restrictions. Cages limit what birds can eat natural feeding, such as grass, insects, so all the missing substances will have to be added to the feed in the form of mineral supplements.
  4. Rapid development of infection. Viral diseases quickly spread among birds in a confined space, since an infected chicken is in close contact with the rest of the flock.

Supporters of closed housing justify their opinion by the fact that cages solve many problems that are quite difficult to cope with with free breeding:

  1. Safety. The likelihood of a chicken being eaten by a predator is reduced to zero.
  2. Ensuring control over poultry health. In a limited space, a sick bird can be noticed earlier and have time to provide it with veterinary care.
  3. Reduced likelihood of infectious diseases due to the lack of contact with wild birds.
  4. Security necessary conditions to increase the duration of egg production.
  5. Facilitating the process of collecting eggs. You don't have to look for a poultry product. Free-roaming birds may fly not in designated nests, but on the floor or in the street.
  6. Saving feed. With limited movement, chickens eat less. In addition, when kept freely, a significant portion of the grain is eaten by sparrows and other wild birds.
  7. Possibility to accommodate large livestock in a small area.

Free movement of chickens will bring certain benefits to their health, but will create many inconveniences for the breeder. However, the negative aspects of closed housing can be minimized through careful care.

Do it yourself

Making a cage for laying hens with your own hands is not difficult, you just need to stock up on materials and know the technology of the process. It is also advisable to first make approximate drawings that will help you navigate during construction. For construction you will need:

  • wooden beam or metal corner for the frame;
  • bolts;
  • galvanized welded mesh with mesh sizes 25:50 mm and 50:50 mm;
  • tin for the tray and door;
  • spring for door and hinge.

Step-by-step instructions for making a cage with your own hands for laying hens will look like this:

Prepare all the necessary parts with the following dimensions:

№ Name Quantity Dimensions, cm
Galvanized welded mesh with mesh size 25:50 mm:
1 Back wall 1 PC
2 Side wall 2 pcs
3 Ceiling 1 PC
4 Mesh floor 1 PC
From galvanized welded mesh with a cell size of 50:50 mm:
5 1 PC
6 Door - you will receive it by cutting it out of the front wall, do not forget to remove the excess parts by making a hole with the dimensions indicated in the drawing 1 PC
From corner 2:2 cm
7 Legs 4 things length 80 cm
8 Ceiling frame

Cage for laying hens: pros and cons

  • stationary, installed on the floor or suspended on the wall;
  • portable, on legs or wheels - they can be taken outside during the warm season.


Pros of cage keeping

  1. A large number of chickens can be accommodated in a limited area. In addition to saving space, heating and lighting costs are reduced during the cold season.
  2. Thanks to the design of the cages, cleaning and caring for birds is much easier than when they live in pens. Costs for bedding are reduced.
  3. Chickens do not have the opportunity to rake and scatter feed, which gives feed savings of 15-20%. The water remains clean and is not contaminated by litter or waste.
  4. The sanitary and epidemiological situation in a private farmstead is improving, because birds living in cages do not come into contact with other birds. The likelihood of illness and poisoning is reduced.
  5. Laying hens in cages are safe from attacks by dogs, cats, wild animals and rodents.
  6. Collecting eggs and distributing feed is much easier.


  1. In conditions of a limited area, the bird is less mobile and its lifespan is shortened. This type of housing is not recommended for purebred chickens, but is quite acceptable for egg and meat-egg crosses.
  2. Requires constant use mineral supplements and vitamins; when free-ranging, the bird receives them by pecking at insects and worms, fresh herbs, minerals and stones.
  3. For normal egg production, regular lighting is necessary.
  4. In case of large crowding, regular monitoring of the condition of the birds is necessary, any infection can quickly develop into an epidemic.


Experienced poultry farmers to reduce negative influence for cage keeping, it is recommended to take the cages outside under a canopy during the warm season and regularly feed the chickens fresh vegetables and greens.

Construction of laying hen cages

Cells can be made from almost any available materials, ensuring hygiene and good ventilation, but most often the cells are made of galvanized metal mesh, mounted on a frame made of wood or metal. Such cages provide good air exchange, and if there are windows in the room, lighting costs are also reduced.


The floors in lattice cages are made of fine mesh with a slope towards the front wall of 7-10 degrees. The front edge of the floor is equipped with an egg receptacle. The egg laid by the hen is carefully rolled into a gutter outside the cage and lies there until the eggs are collected, and the hen cannot reach it, which prevents damage to it.

A litter tray is installed 10-15 cm below the grated floor; it can be made from galvanized sheet metal or you can buy ready-made plastic trays. At large sizes The cage tray can be made into multiple sections, this will make cleaning easier.


A feeder is installed on the front wall above the egg receptacle along the entire width of the cage, and a drinking bowl is 10-15 cm higher. To make it convenient for chickens to peck food, the grille for the front wall must have dimensions of at least 50x100 mm. With a smaller mesh, you can remove some of the rods above the feeder.


The sides and back walls of the cage can be made of plywood or OSB, but lattice walls are preferable for reasons of hygiene and ventilation. The roof of the cage can also be made of lattice, but so that it can be placed outside in the summer, it is better to make it from a solid moisture-proof material with a slight slope for water drainage.


The cage door is usually combined with the front wall, making it hinged or detachable. With a single-tier placement, you can make a folding roof - through it it is much more convenient to get and place chickens, and to disinfect the cage.

Cage for laying hens: drawings and sketches

The general view of the cell is shown in the sketch. The frame is made of timber, the back and side walls are made of fine mesh. Two-level floor: top level made of mesh material, inclined forward, ending at the front with an egg tray. The lower level of the floor is a tray made of tin; waste and droppings accumulate in it.


The front wall is made of rods or a lattice with a large cell. The cage is equipped with a plywood feeder placed on the front wall. Above it there is a drinking bowl in the form of a trough.

The cage dimensions are designed to accommodate two laying hens. If you plan to keep more heads in a cage, the width of the cage is increased accordingly, while maintaining the remaining dimensions.

Cage sizes for laying hens

Standards for keeping chickens of egg and meat-egg breeds and crosses imply placement of 2 to 8 individuals per 1 square meter of area. The main criterion is the free access of each chicken to feed and water, so it is advisable to make the cage depth 50-60 cm, and its width, depending on the planned livestock, from 60 to 120 cm. Wider cages are inconvenient: the floors in them will sag and the tray will become too heavy for the litter. The height of the cage from the mesh floor is 45 cm.


Number of laying hens per cage 2-3 4-5 6-8 9-12
Cage depth, m 0,5-0,6 0,5-0,6 0,6-0,8 0,7-1,0
Cage width, m 0,6-0,1 1,0-1,4 1,4-1,8 1,8-2,0
Cage height at the rear wall, m 0,45 0,45 0,5 0,5
Total cage height, m 0,65 0,65 0,7 0,7
Area per bird, m2 0,1-0,3 0,1-0,21 0,1-0,24 0,1-0,22

For chickens of egg-meat breeds, the area must be increased by 30-40%.


Important! Excessive crowding in cages will lead to anxiety in the birds, conflicts and fights, and decreased productivity!

Materials for making a cage

A cage for 4-5 laying hens can have dimensions of 0.5x1 m and a height of 45-46 cm. To make one cage from wooden block and metal mesh you will need:



Required tool:

  • jigsaw or hacksaw;
  • screwdriver;
  • grinder for cutting mesh and galvanizing;
  • tape measure, level, square;
  • sandpaper or sander;
  • pencil or marker.

Video - Do-it-yourself cage for laying hens

Step-by-step instructions: making a cage for laying hens

The cage frame is usually made of wood, as it is the most affordable and environmentally friendly material. Instead of a block, you can also use a plasterboard profile or metal corners, in this case you will also need welding machine.

  1. Marking and cutting of material for the frame is carried out. Prepared 40x40 mm bars are cut with a jigsaw or hacksaw according to the sketch. The ends are cleaned with sandpaper.
  2. Using galvanized screws and corners, the frame is assembled. Additionally, you can reinforce it with plywood gussets along the side walls. To place the lower pallet, a grating made of 20x40 mm bars is installed. The frame of the door is made from a 20x40 mm block. If the cage is to be transported, furniture wheels are attached to the legs.


  3. In the case of making a frame from metal profile the prepared parts are fastened with metal screws, a corner or profile pipe- by welding.
  4. A lattice floor is made: a metal mesh with a fine mesh is cut out according to the sketch, its front edge is folded into a tray. To strengthen the floor, you can make transverse supports from a 20x40 mm block with a distance between them of at least 20 cm. The block must be treated with an antiseptic, for example, drying oil or lime. The mesh is attached to the block using self-tapping screws.


  5. The side and rear walls are covered with a metal mesh with a fine mesh, secured with self-tapping screws. To avoid unnecessary work on cutting the material, you can bend the side walls from a single piece of mesh; when making a cage of the specified size, a standard sheet of mesh 0.5x2 m is just enough for two side walls and a back wall.



  6. The front wall-door is covered with a 50x50 mm mesh, securing it with self-tapping screws. It is more convenient to make the door hinged - with a width of 1 meter, the opening door will not be very convenient. To lock the door, bolts are attached.


  7. The roof of the cage is made of lattice, moisture-resistant plywood or OSB. Fastened with self-tapping screws.
  8. A tray-pallet is made from galvanized sheet metal to the size of the bottom of the cage. It is convenient to bend its front edge into the form of a handle. Place it on a timber flooring.



Video - The right cage for laying hens, broilers

Feeders and drinkers

Traditionally, the feeder is made from planed boards, fastening the parts with self-tapping screws. You can also make it from polypropylene sewer pipe with a diameter of 100-150 mm, sawing it in half lengthwise with a jigsaw and closing the ends with special plugs for pipes. These feeders are lightweight, resistant to moisture and disinfectant solutions, and easy to manufacture. Hang the feeder above the egg tray at a height of 10-15 cm, secure it with wire or canopies.



Nipple bird drinkers - parts for assembly


Video - DIY cell battery. Wood frame

Video - Cage for keeping chickens

Cage lighting for laying hens

To successfully lay eggs, chickens need not only proper nutrition, but also good lighting. Daylight hours for laying hens should be at least 14-17 hours. Reach it in winter time indoors is possible only with the help of lighting. To save energy, it is recommended to use energy-saving lamps or LED lights. They need to be placed so that the cells are evenly illuminated. The lighting can be automated by installing lamps with a timer or photocell.


Important! When placing lamps, it is necessary to maintain safe distances from them or use durable shades so that birds cannot break them.

The advantages of a cage for laying hens are obvious: caring for caged birds is simple and accessible to anyone. The lightweight, durable cage can be taken outside, moved to another room, and can also be easily transported when purchasing a bird. Cage housing of laying hens is the key to high productivity and low costs.



  • stationary, installed on the floor or suspended on the wall;
  • portable, on legs or wheels - they can be taken outside during the warm season.

Pros of cage keeping

  1. A large number of chickens can be accommodated in a limited area. In addition to saving space, heating and lighting costs are reduced during the cold season.
  2. Thanks to the design of the cages, cleaning and caring for birds is much easier than when they live in pens. Costs for bedding are reduced.
  3. Chickens do not have the opportunity to rake and scatter feed, which gives feed savings of 15-20%. The water remains clean and is not contaminated by litter or waste.
  4. The sanitary and epidemiological situation in a private farmstead is improving, because birds living in cages do not come into contact with other birds. The likelihood of illness and poisoning is reduced.
  5. Laying hens in cages are safe from attacks by dogs, cats, wild animals and rodents.
  6. Collecting eggs and distributing feed is much easier.

  1. In conditions of a limited area, the bird is less mobile and its lifespan is shortened. This type of housing is not recommended for purebred chickens, but is quite acceptable for egg and meat-egg crosses.
  2. The constant use of mineral supplements and vitamins is required; when free-ranging, the bird receives them by pecking at insects and worms, fresh herbs, minerals and stones.
  3. For normal egg production, regular lighting is necessary.
  4. If there is a lot of crowding, regular monitoring of the condition of the birds is necessary; any infectious disease can quickly develop into an epidemic.

To reduce the negative impact of cage housing, experienced poultry farmers recommend taking the cages outside under a canopy during the warm season and regularly feeding chickens with fresh vegetables and herbs.

Construction of laying hen cages

Cages can be made from almost any available material that ensures hygiene and good ventilation, but most often the cages are made of galvanized metal mesh attached to a frame made of wood or metal. Such cages provide good air exchange, and if there are windows in the room, lighting costs are also reduced.

The floors in lattice cages are made of fine mesh with a slope towards the front wall of 7-10 degrees. The front edge of the floor is equipped with an egg receptacle. The egg laid by the hen is carefully rolled into a gutter outside the cage and lies there until the eggs are collected, and the hen cannot reach it, which prevents damage to it.

A litter tray is installed 10-15 cm below the grated floor; it can be made from galvanized sheet metal or you can buy ready-made plastic trays. If the cage is large, the tray can be made into multiple sections, this will make cleaning easier.

Chicken cage - drawing

A feeder is installed on the front wall above the egg receptacle along the entire width of the cage, and a drinking bowl is 10-15 cm higher. To make it convenient for chickens to peck food, the grille for the front wall must have dimensions of at least 50x100 mm. With a smaller mesh, you can remove some of the rods above the feeder.

The sides and back walls of the cage can be made of plywood or OSB, but lattice walls are preferable for reasons of hygiene and ventilation. The roof of the cage can also be made of lattice, but so that it can be placed outside in the summer, it is better to make it from a solid moisture-proof material with a slight slope for water drainage.

The cage door is usually combined with the front wall, making it hinged or detachable. With a single-tier placement, you can make a folding roof - through it it is much more convenient to get and place chickens, and to disinfect the cage.

Cage for laying hens: drawings and sketches

The general view of the cell is shown in the sketch. The frame is made of timber, the back and side walls are made of fine mesh. The floor is two-level: the upper level of mesh material is inclined forward, ending in the front part with an egg tray. The lower level of the floor is a tray made of tin; waste and droppings accumulate in it.

The front wall is made of rods or a lattice with a large cell. The cage is equipped with a plywood feeder placed on the front wall. Above it there is a drinking bowl in the form of a trough.

The cage dimensions are designed to accommodate two laying hens. If you plan to keep more heads in a cage, the width of the cage is increased accordingly, while maintaining the remaining dimensions.

Cage sizes for laying hens

Standards for keeping chickens of egg and meat-egg breeds and crosses imply placement of 2 to 8 individuals per 1 square meter of area. The main criterion is the free access of each chicken to feed and water, so it is advisable to make the cage depth 50-60 cm, and its width, depending on the planned livestock, from 60 to 120 cm. Wider cages are inconvenient: the floors in them will sag, and the tray will become too heavy for the litter. The height of the cage from the mesh floor is 45 cm.

Number of laying hens per cage2-3 4-5 6-8 9-12
Cage depth, m0,5-0,6 0,5-0,6 0,6-0,8 0,7-1,0
Cage width, m0,6-0,1 1,0-1,4 1,4-1,8 1,8-2,0
Cage height at the rear wall, m0,45 0,45 0,5 0,5
Total cage height, m0,65 0,65 0,7 0,7
Area per bird, m20,1-0,3 0,1-0,21 0,1-0,24 0,1-0,22

For chickens of egg-meat breeds, the area must be increased by 30-40%.

Important! Excessive crowding in cages will lead to anxiety in the birds, conflicts and fights, and decreased productivity!

Materials for making a cage

A cage for 4-5 laying hens can have dimensions of 0.5x1 m and a height of 45-46 cm. To make one cage from a wooden block and metal mesh you will need:


Cage equipment for laying hens - example finished design of steel

Required tool:

  • jigsaw or hacksaw;
  • screwdriver;
  • grinder for cutting mesh and galvanizing;
  • tape measure, level, square;
  • sandpaper or sander;
  • pencil or marker.

Video - Do-it-yourself cage for laying hens

Step-by-step instructions: making a cage for laying hens

The cage frame is usually made of wood, as the most affordable and environmentally friendly material. Instead of a block, you can also use a drywall profile or metal corners, in which case you will also need a welding machine.

  1. Marking and cutting of material for the frame is carried out. Prepared 40x40 mm bars are cut with a jigsaw or hacksaw according to the sketch. The ends are cleaned with sandpaper.
  2. Using galvanized screws and corners, the frame is assembled. Additionally, you can reinforce it with plywood gussets along the side walls. To place the lower pallet, a grating made of 20x40 mm bars is installed. The frame of the door is made from a 20x40 mm block. If the cage is to be transported, furniture wheels are attached to the legs.

  3. In the case of making a frame from a metal profile, the prepared parts are fastened with metal screws, an angle or a profile pipe - by welding.
  4. A lattice floor is made: a metal mesh with a fine mesh is cut out according to the sketch, its front edge is folded into a tray. To strengthen the floor, you can make transverse supports from a 20x40 mm block with a distance between them of at least 20 cm. The block must be treated with an antiseptic, for example, drying oil or lime. The mesh is attached to the block using self-tapping screws.

  5. The side and rear walls are covered with a metal mesh with a fine mesh, secured with self-tapping screws. To avoid unnecessary work on cutting the material, you can bend the side walls from a single piece of mesh; when making a cage of the specified size, a standard sheet of mesh 0.5x2 m is just enough for two side walls and a back wall.

  6. The front wall-door is covered with a 50x50 mm mesh, securing it with self-tapping screws. It is more convenient to make the door hinged - with a width of 1 meter, the opening door will not be very convenient. To lock the door, bolts are attached.

  7. The roof of the cage is made of lattice, moisture-resistant plywood or OSB. Fastened with self-tapping screws.
  8. A tray-pallet is made from galvanized sheet metal to the size of the bottom of the cage. It is convenient to bend its front edge into the form of a handle. Place it on a timber flooring.

Video - The right cage for laying hens, broilers

Feeders and drinkers

Traditionally, the feeder is made from planed boards, fastening the parts with self-tapping screws. You can also make it from a polypropylene sewer pipe with a diameter of 100-150 mm, sawing it in half lengthwise with a jigsaw and closing the ends with special pipe plugs. These feeders are lightweight, resistant to moisture and disinfectant solutions, and easy to manufacture. Hang the feeder above the egg tray at a height of 10-15 cm, secure it with wire or canopies.

It is more convenient to use a nipple drinker; there will always be pure water. Nipple drinkers are placed inside, secured to the grid with wire or clamps.

Nipple bird drinkers - parts for assembly

Video - DIY cell battery. Wood frame

Video - Cage for keeping chickens

Cage lighting for laying hens

To successfully lay eggs, chickens require not only proper nutrition, but also good lighting. Daylight hours for laying hens should be at least 14-17 hours. It can be achieved indoors in winter only with the help of lighting. To save energy, it is recommended to use energy-saving lamps or LED lamps. They need to be placed so that the cells are evenly illuminated. The lighting can be automated by installing lamps with a timer or photocell.

Important! When placing lamps, it is necessary to maintain safe distances from them or use durable shades so that birds cannot break them.

The advantages of a cage for laying hens are obvious: caring for caged birds is simple and accessible to anyone. The lightweight, durable cage can be taken outside, moved to another room, and can also be easily transported when purchasing a bird. Cage housing of laying hens is the key to high productivity and low costs.

It is important to remember that the cage method of keeping chickens has the following disadvantages:

  • Low quality of life for chickens;
  • Necessity additional feeding calcium and;
  • Increased risk of infectious epidemics due to overcrowding of poultry;
  • Lack of natural light.

Due to limited mobility, chickens in cages often heart attacks occur when eating too much food, and . Flaw sunlight not only has a bad effect on the health of birds, but also leads to additional expenses for lighting.

It is important to take into account that in crowded conditions, the disease of one chicken can lead to rapid mass infection and death of the entire flock, therefore, when keeping chickens in cages, regular veterinary control is necessary.

Cell requirements

High levels of health and energy contained in cells can be achieved by complying with the following requirements when designing and constructing cells:

  • Each cage must be equipped with a separate removable and;
  • The walls in the cage are made of steel and do not have to be solid;
  • It is necessary to maintain ventilation and dryness;
  • The diameter of the pallet mesh rods must be at least 2.5 mm so that the pallet does not bend under the weight of the bird;
  • The openings between the front bars for feeding should be 50 mm wide and 100 mm high;
  • The minimum area occupied by one egg-laying hen is 0.06 square meters. m, meat and egg breed - 0.08 sq. m;
  • The protrusion of the egg collector should be 60-80 mm, and the bend of the edge should be at least 30 mm.

Feeders and drinkers should be easy to remove for cleaning and repair, but at the same time securely attached to the cage.

The walls of the cage and the ceiling are made of steel lattice to ensure ventilation and prevent the development of mold due to humidity. The floor is inclined at an angle of 6-8 degrees and is made of fine mesh with a hole diagonal of 10-15 mm.

One cage can contain from 2 to 12 laying hens. A standard cage for 5 chickens has a depth of 0.5-0.7 meters, a width of 1-1.4 meters and a height of 0.7 meters. A cage for housing 10 laying hens should have a depth of 0.8-1.0 m, a width of 1.8-1.9 m and a height of 0.7 m.

Necessary equipment

To maintain the egg production of chickens at the required level in cage conditions, the chicken coop must be equipped with:

  • Artificial;
  • Automatic drinkers.

For automatic feeding water supply to each drinking bowl of the cage uses a vacuum type of water supply. Why install one common tank (or system of tanks) above the level of the drinking bowls of the upper tiers. They depart from the tank flexible tubes into each drinking bowl. It should be remembered that the tank must be hermetically sealed, then the water in the drinking bowls will be filled strictly to the edge of the tube suitable for it.

The crowded presence of chickens in cages requires the installation of electric fans to ensure good air circulation in the chicken coop and prevent the accumulation of moisture.

For lighting you can use:

  • Incandescent heat lamps;
  • Energy-saving lamps;
  • LED bulbs.
It is better to use LED lamps, since energy-saving bulbs in the form of a spiral, when broken, will pollute the chicken coop with mercury vapor, which will lead to illness in laying hens, and incandescent lamps consume 9 times more electricity than LED frosted lamps.

Every two sq. meters of chicken coop with cages should be illuminated with a 100-watt lamp (for incandescent heat lamps), or a 12-watt LED lamp. When distributing lights, it is important to avoid establishing dark areas in the coop. Daylight hours for laying hens should last 14-16 hours.

For automatic maintenance this mode they use timers, and if you have windows, you can save on lighting during the day by installing a light-sensitive sensor that will turn off the lamps during the day.

Procedure for making cages for chickens

Chicken cages are made of metal lattice and can be mounted in either a metal or wooden frame. For mounting cells on metal frame will be required following materials:

  • Fine galvanized mesh with a cell diagonal of 15-25 mm and a rod thickness of 2.5 mm;
  • Wide mesh for the front wall with a mesh side of 50 mm;
  • Metal corners with a thickness of at least 3 mm;
  • Galvanized sheet metal with a thickness of 1.5 mm for the tray;
  • Plywood sheets 1.5-2 mm thick for the feeder;
  • Water pipe with a diameter of 50-70 mm for a drinking bowl;
  • Hinged loops and hooks made of steel;
  • Dowel nails or anchor bolts;
  • Self-tapping screws for metal and wood.

The tray for collecting litter can be made of plastic instead of tin. You also need to prepare a welding machine, a screwdriver, a grinder, a tape measure with a marker for marking the frame and building level to check the stability of the structure.

Before installation, it is necessary to determine the size and number of cages depending on the number of birds and make a drawing of the frame in which the cages will be installed.

Below is a drawing of a metal cage for housing four chickens with eggs or three chickens with meat:

The procedure for assembling the frame and installing the cages is as follows:

  1. Using a grinder, cut a corner for the frame according to the drawing;
  2. Install vertical elements frame and weld them with horizontal crossbars;
  3. Measure the horizontal position of the frame crossbars with a level and adjust if necessary;
  4. Strengthen the frame by welding additional diagonal corners 30-40 mm long;
  5. Using a grinder, cut out an inclined egg collector from a metal mesh and bend its edge, as shown in the drawing;
  6. Cut out the side walls and roofs for the cages;
  7. Treat the front wall of a large lattice by cutting off a number of horizontal cells so that at a height of 15-20 cm from the bottom of the cage, the front lattice has an opening of 50 by 100 mm;
  8. Assemble the cage from cut out mesh elements, welding the fixed parts, and fasten the movable front door on hinges;
  9. Bend the edges of a sheet of galvanized sheet so that their height is 20-40 mm, and inner dimensions– 600 by 700 mm. Do required quantity trays (according to the number of cells);
  10. Weld two metal plates measuring 20 by 30 mm to the front of the cage on the sides;
  11. Install the cages on the frame, securing them with metal screws to the bottom plates to the horizontal corners of the frame;
  12. Make a feeder from sheets of thin plywood so that the vertical wall of the feeder adjacent to the cage has a height of 100 mm, the bottom of the feeder protrudes by 150 mm, and the back wall of the feeder has a height of 125 mm;
  13. Attach metal hooks to the feeder using self-tapping screws and install it at a height of 15-20 cm from the cage tray;
  14. For drinking bowl, cut with a hot knife plastic pipe along, install sealed plugs on the sides and secure them 7-10 cm above the feeder. Bring water to the feeder.

The frame can be mounted on wheels to move over large production premises or for rolling out cells onto Fresh air in summer time. It should be remembered that it is advisable to install wheels on small frames under 4-6 cells for ease of transportation.

It is important to remember that when installing an inclined cage floor, the bars of the front wall should not prevent the eggs from rolling out into the front egg collector.

Sometimes the cage lids are made movable by connecting them with circular hinges to the front doors on top and to the back wall. Such cages are more convenient to maintain and place laying hens there.

To install cages on a wooden frame instead of metal corners have to take square beam by 100 mm for vertical supports and 40 mm timber for horizontal crossbars. Going to wooden frame using self-tapping screws with installation of additional crossbars at an angle of 45 degrees to load-bearing beams and connecting these beams with horizontal crossbars.

You can save time on installing cages by installing one common inclined floor, screwing rolled mesh to the crossbars with screws with a wide head, and then installing cages without a floor on top. It should be remembered that there should be one litter tray for no more than two cages, otherwise it will be difficult to clean.

often amaze with their diversity and unusualness.

The diet of chickens is very different from the diet of adult chickens. Read about how to feed them correctly.

A broiler barn has its own specific features. You can find out how to build it correctly by reading.

In the presence of automatic lighting, heating and water supply Caring for laying hens in cages comes down to the following activities:

  • Regular disinfection of cells;
  • Control of humidity and temperature in the room;
  • Monitoring the availability of feed in feeders;
  • I control external signs bird health.

In conditions of high density of chickens on square meter The cells must be maintained at a low (no more than 45%) level of relative humidity and a temperature of 20-23 degrees.

Every three days it is necessary to wipe the outer bars of the cages, feeders and drinking bowls with a disinfectant solution, and also completely replace the water in drinking tanks when using settled water. Chicken droppings and garbage accumulated on pallets should be disposed of daily.

Once every two weeks, it is necessary to remove the chickens from the cages one by one to carry out internal disinfection of the cage and trays with a bleach solution.

As feed for chickens kept in cages, they should be enriched with vitamins and minerals for the formation.

If birds are fed homemade food, it is necessary to add crushed egg shells, cleared of the inner film, or calcium supplements.

When adding feed to the feeders, it should be mixed to avoid caking and damage to the lower layers of feed.

Poultry farming is one of the most important industries Agriculture, which is capable of short time provide the population with food. The intensive farming method involves the active use of new methods. Cage housing has long been an integral part of egg production. Chicken cages are being improved. Designers are developing new options with the maximum possible mechanization of all processes.

Story

In the post-war period, the acute problem of feeding the population prompted the development of industrial cage keeping of poultry. The most famous and powerful manufacturers of such equipment are located in Germany, the USA, Spain, and Italy.

The boom in such poultry keeping occurred in the 60-90s of the last century. Chicken cages were installed everywhere on poultry farms. 90% of consumer eggs were produced there.

Personal courtyard

Huge buildings with multi-tiered cages are also reflected in private households. The experience of this method of keeping has proven itself well among amateur poultry farmers. Modifications of cages for keeping laying hens were developed especially for personal farmsteads.

But many owners prefer to equip their poultry house themselves. Skilled hands, a cage net, a little imagination - that’s probably all you need. When manufacturing, be sure to adhere to the recommended dimensions. This will help keep the bird in conditions that are comfortable for it (average values):

  • width - 70 cm;
  • depth - 45.5 cm;
  • height - 40 cm;
  • cell size - 25x50 mm, and on the side of the feed tray it should be 50x50;
  • area per head - from 400 to 600 cm 2.

The cage sizes for broiler chickens are slightly different:

  • length - 100 cm;
  • depth - 65 cm;
  • height - 45 cm;
  • area per head - at least 500 cm2.

They can be larger - it all depends on the cross. The main task is to create comfortable conditions keeping poultry and getting the most out of it possible quantity products.

Chickens in cages at home are a great way out for small area land. The inability to organize poultry walking and the lack of a large room are good reasons to consider the cage keeping method.

Advantages


Flaws

Experts, along with the unconditional economic benefits of keeping poultry in cages, also note some difficulties:

Cell material

Cage mesh can be of two types: metal and plastic. Both materials have their disadvantages and advantages.

Metal mesh:

  • will last for decades;
  • resistant to adverse conditions and aggressive environments;
  • easy to clean;
  • does not interfere with air exchange and lighting.

Plastic mesh has the same qualities, in addition you can add:

  • it is cheaper;
  • lighter than its metal counterpart;
  • can be produced in various colors;
  • does not rot;
  • withstands temperatures from -50 to +80 degrees;
  • does not fade;
  • there is a possibility of its repeated use.

Conclusion

Modern industry is able to satisfy any consumer requirements with a large selection of cell sizes.

There is ongoing debate among experts about the advisability of keeping poultry in cages. Of course, this is a progressive and technologically sound method. Cage batteries, equipped with the latest technology, greatly facilitate the work of staff in poultry houses.

However, there are farmers who prefer floor-based housing for laying hens. Eggs obtained in such poultry houses are more expensive, and the demand for them is growing every year. As for broilers, Western experts are categorically against keeping them in cages.