Methods for propagating phalaenopsis orchids at home. Phalaenopsis orchid Phalaenopsis home care watering

Which attract the attention of flower growers with their stunning appearance, long-lasting flowering and beauty.

But, in order to get all this from the Orchid, you need to learn how to care for it in the right way, since it is very demanding of care.

If you don't comply certain rules, Orchid may die without having time to please its owners with its wonderful flowering.

In order for your plant to actively develop and increase the vegetative part, it needs to create ideal conditions for content.

Therefore, it is very important to choose for this plant optimal soil and provide it with proper watering.

Caring for Orchids at home

Types and description of flowers

The most common type of Orchid is Phalaenopsis. This species is viable for our climate and is not unpretentious. Very graceful flowers, reminiscent of butterflies, have a wide range of colors: red, blue, yellow, purple, etc.

Read also: How to care for a Cyclamen flower at home

Dendrobium Orchid extremely beautiful and gentle. This is a heat-loving species that prefers diffused lighting. Its flowering, as a rule, takes a very long time. But the requirements for this type are increasing.

Cattleya Orchid- this is another one popular look having large flowers, exuding, unlike other types of relatives, a stunning aroma. Cattleya is considered the most capricious flower from the genus Orchid. Before you get yourself this beauty, it is recommended that you thoroughly familiarize yourself with the rules of caring for her.


Vanda Orchid- truly a real queen. IN wildlife this plant It grows with a bare root system, feeding mainly on air. The source of moisture for this luxurious beauty is fog and rain. Mineral fertilizers she gets it from bird droppings.

In her homeland, the climate is such that the humidity is 100%, so she does not need fertilizing or any specific soil.

Adaptation after the store

Orchid very picky about location. Even the slightest movement of a flower usually causes it to drop its buds or begin to wilt.


First of all, a plant brought from a store must be quarantined. This means that for about two weeks the new plant needs to be placed in a different place from the neighborhood with home flowers.

It's better not to bet Orchid on the windowsill, strongly lit by the sun. Direct sunlight may not have the greatest effect on adaptation. in the best possible way. Try to choose a place so that the flower is sufficiently illuminated, but without direct sun exposure. A bedside table located near the window or any other surface is suitable for this.

Read also: How to care for the Decembrist (Schlumbergera) flower at home


It is necessary to wait until the plant has fully adapted and only then can you add various fertilizers.

Don't try to water Orchid, because in stores they always create additional humidity for flowers.

All you need is careful observation of the roots and the plant itself in order to determine in time whether there are pests on it. If any are found, it is necessary to immediately take all measures to destroy them.


Choosing a pot

Flower pot Orchid must have drainage holes, through which excess moisture will successfully escape. It is best to purchase a transparent pot. This will make it easier to determine the state of the root system Orchids and the degree of soil moisture.

It is better not to use ceramic pots, since the roots of the plant can quickly grow to the inner surface of the pot.

If you don’t really like the look of a plastic transparent pot, you can additionally place it in another pot with a larger ceramic or glass container.


Lighting and temperature conditions

Exactly right Orchid lighting is the key to healthy leaves and long flowering. If the flower experiences insufficient lighting, its leaves will be lifeless and pale.

If the flower is exposed to active and harmful rays of the sun, then in the near future the leaves will fall off and the plant will most likely die.


Lighting rules

* The flower loves exclusively diffused light. A good location for it would be a window sill facing north.

* IN summer period the plant must be removed from the windowsill or in any way limit its exposure to sunlight. Use a matte film for this purpose by gluing it directly onto the glass.

* For Orchids It is very important to maintain a 12-hour daylight hours. IN winter period for this reason, it is necessary to create additional lighting for the flower. A lamp with a fluorescent lamp is very suitable for this purpose.


* In order for your Orchid bloomed for a long time without stopping, choose the optimal temperature regime for it. This is the whole secret of the long flowering of this flower. Some gardeners are even beginning to fear such long flowering periods.

* Most types Orchids The growing conditions in the climate of our area are very suitable. The main thing is to try to ensure a difference between night and day temperatures. To do this, in the summer the flower can be taken out onto the balcony. In winter, when the pot with the plant is on the windowsill, this will be quite enough, since at night it will always be somewhat colder near the window. In this way, a natural temperature difference will be maintained.


Proper watering and fertilizing

An integral part of care Orchids is proper watering. Therefore, you should treat it very responsibly and carefully, trying to comply with certain conditions:

The flower should be watered abundantly, but not often. For irrigation, you need to use warm water at room temperature or a few degrees higher.

Orchid It is best to spray and water in the morning.

When watering, water should not get on the flowers themselves, otherwise they will completely lose their attractiveness and begin to quickly fade.

Read also: How to care for a Christmas star flower (Poinsettia)


When watering the plant, make sure that the water does not stagnate in the center of the flower, as well as in the axils of its leaves.

Excess water must be completely removed from the pot.

In order to feed Orchid fertilizers, usually special complex additives are used, which are sold in flower shops.

It must be borne in mind that at different periods of their life flowers need minerals. For example, they really need nitrogen during vegetative development.


At the moment of bud formation in a flower, and when inflorescences form during flowering, it is necessary to increase the addition of phosphorus and potassium.

During the rest period, when Orchid has bloomed, it is also necessary to take care of it, but you just do not need to fertilize its soil.

Reproduction by shoots of stems

Offshoots, or in other words little children, are new small plants. Typically, such shoots form where there is a high nitrogen content.


As soon as you notice such side shoots on your plant, immediately begin spraying them frequently with a spray bottle. Do this until small roots appear on the shoot.

As soon as this happens, feel free to separate the baby from the mother flower. Then the baby should be treated with charcoal and can be planted in a separate transparent pot.

Reproduction by layering

Only in horizontally growing Orchids layering may be observed. They, as a rule, appear in those types of flowers whose shoots have a somewhat elongated shape, reminiscent of some kind of cylinders.


First you need to awaken the layers. To do this, over the part of the flower where the buds have formed, you will need to build a small home greenhouse, for example from a plastic cup. In order to increase the humidity in the greenhouse, it needs to be constantly sprayed.

After about a month of being in moisture and warmth, the buds will begin to awaken and new plants will emerge from them, which will have their own roots and leaves. All that remains is to separate them from mother bush, process and plant in a separate pot. At first they can be kept in a greenhouse. This will strengthen young plants well.


Vegetative method of propagation

Different species and varieties of any plant have the ability to reproduce through vegetation. To do this, the rhizome of the plant is divided into many parts so that each part has two pseudobulbs. The roots of a young plant should not be divided. Only rhizomes of adult plants are suitable for this purpose.

We will need to carefully remove Orchid from the pot, carefully shake off the soil from the roots and cut the root into several pieces. It is best to use garden shears for this action. The resulting sections must be treated with charcoal. Each part of the future independent plant should be planted in separate transparent containers. Fresh Orchids you need to constantly spray with a spray bottle and water. When you see the appearance of new shoots and leaves, watering and spraying should be stopped, since the plant has already begun to grow.

The unusual name of the flower given by Carl Blum - Phalaenopsis, like a moth, has won the hearts of many generations of flower growers with its variety of colors, ease of care, grace and beauty. These flowers, reminiscent of a butterfly with their subtlety and grace, occupy prominent places in the best collections of house plants. Therefore, having made his choice in favor of this beauty, the florist has the opportunity to witness the blossoming of the East Asian miracle.

In this article we will discuss caring for the Phalaenopsis orchid and reveal the secrets associated with phalaenopsis and caring for them at home. Let's talk about important details related to characteristic features of this type. We will also touch on pests, methods of prevention and treatment.

Description and characteristics of Phalaenopsis

Phalaenopsis is a genus of epiphytic plants in the Orchidaceae family. A rosette of 3 or more leaves is formed around a tall peduncle. They are wide, up to 5 centimeters, and flexible. Phalaenopsis flowers come in a wide variety of varieties. White, pink, yellow, burgundy, spotted, purple - this is not the entire list of colors of the phalaenopsis orchid.

The Phalaenopsis orchid blooms at least once a year; the flowering period can also be very long - up to 6 months. It happens that this one blooms 3 times a year. Also when good care this orchid can bloom continuously for years: while one peduncle is blooming, new young peduncles emerge.

Photo gallery of flowers and leaves of various Phalaenopsis:

Care and care

As with other species, caring for phalaenopsis orchids at home requires some very important actions, but at the same time, creating a positive atmosphere for growth and flowering is not a labor-intensive practice.

If you pay due attention to the following aspects, caring for phalaenopsis at home will bring only positive emotions.

Lighting and location

Phalaenopsis orchids require care when placed indoors, since the choice right place- half the success. IN natural conditions These flowers are accustomed to long daylight hours, so you should not take the phalaenopsis flower far from the windows, as direct sunlight can cause burns and then the plant will have to be rehabilitated. It is best to place this flower in a shaded place, or organize diffused lighting. In winter, additional artificial lighting of the plant will not be superfluous.

East and west windows are well suited for placement. On southern windows, the plant must be shaded, and on northern windows, phalaenopsis may be reluctant to bloom due to lack of light.

With a seasonal reduction in the amount of light, it is necessary to add artificial lighting.

Temperature

Unlike the tropical conditions of Asia, where temperature ranges and seasons are regulated by nature, room conditions- the prerogative of man. The choice of optimal temperature is approached carefully and the requirements of the plant are taken into account.

The Phalaenopsis orchid gets along well at different temperatures, but the optimal solution for this flower is a range from 18 to 25 degrees. Aggressive changes will not benefit the flower and will not allow flowering to begin on time, but if the daily change of regimes is carried out wisely, by about 5-7 degrees, for 2 weeks, then your pet will not be kept waiting long.

Important! During heating season The thermometer readings increase, so the flower is removed away from the radiators or fenced off from hot air.

Phalaenopsis orchids love good air circulation. This is necessary for disease prevention and confident growth. Since phalaenopsis does not have a rest period, the growing season continues all year round. But, in general, this may depend on the individual biorhythms of the flower.

The beauty and health of a flower are inextricably linked with the air humidity around it. At home, Phalaenopsis requires 30-40% humidity. With a lack of moisture in the air, the leaves lose their healthy appearance and elasticity. An increase in humidity leads to rotting of the roots and the death of the flower.

Important! Humidity can be measured with an instrument called a psychrometer (hygrometer). It should be located in close proximity to the plant.

To increase humidity when there is a lack of it, an additional open source of water is placed next to the flower, which will saturate the air. When air stagnates, humidity levels will not change, so good ventilation is the key to success.

Soil and growing media

Gardeners who want to create the most favorable conditions for their favorite plant should approach the selection or creation of a substrate with maximum attention and care.

Any flower shop sells ready-made soils for phalaenopsis orchids. After the purchase, it is worth rechecking such a fee and, if shortcomings are found, it is modified.

So, the components of the substrate must be small sizes and well crushed. The wider the set of components, the better. The ratio is made approximately equal. All ingredients must be well mixed. If a gardener wants phalaenopsis for his favorite orchid, then it is advisable to choose the following ingredients:

  • Pine bark;
  • Fern roots;
  • A small amount of peat;
  • Pumice;
  • Expanded clay.

For phalaenopsis orchids, a smaller amount of moss is suitable than for other species; you can also use pure bark or bark mixed with coconut chips. Pumice and expanded clay are used not only as fillers in the mixture, but also as a drainage system.

Watering

Root burn due to hard water

Watering plays a role in the life of all plants. important role. It is worth noting that a flower will lead to excellent indicators of health and flowering, while an inept one will create conditions for diseases and pests.

There are several important details watering for phalaenopsis orchids:

  1. Before you start watering, you need to make sure it is necessary. The soil in the phalaenopsis container should be dry or almost dry.
  2. It is necessary to visually assess the appearance of the roots. Roots that need watering are silver in color.
  3. When watering, avoid getting water into the inflorescences and rosettes of leaves, as this leads to rotting of the flower.

Phalaenopsis at home is picky about the quality of water for irrigation. It should be as close as possible to natural nutrient waters. The following types are suitable:

  • Settled;
  • Boiled;
  • Rainy;
  • Filtered.

The Phalaenopsis orchid does not tolerate hard water. Salts settle on the root system and harm it: the roots darken and burns appear. This, of course, is not fatal, but it spoils the appearance of the plant. The best and most by appropriate means The moisture content of this type of orchid is considered to be:

Immersion watering

The flower along with the pot is immersed in a container of water so that the entire substrate gets wet. The immersion should be done slowly so as not to push the entire plant out of the pot. In the summer, the dive time can be up to half an hour, in the cold season, no more than 5 minutes.

If you immerse several plants sequentially, then for each next plant need new water. Thus, the transmission of diseases and...

Phalaenopsis Strait

No less in a convenient way When watering phalaenopsis there will be a spill. The substrate in the pot is spilled with water along the edge; this helps to wash away excess salts from the soil and roots, which will benefit the plant.

Also, maximum attention is paid to frequency, lighting, air temperature and humidity. These indicators must be in balance, since if one of them is displaced, the phalaenopsis orchid will have to be saved.

Important! During the flowering period of phalaenopsis, watering does not need to be changed in any way.

Reproduction and transplantation

Care and reproduction are painstaking process, requiring concentration of knowledge and attention. Therefore, before you start, you should assess the risks and check whether the plant is ready for this.

  1. Propagation by cuttings. A stem 10 to 15 centimeters long is cut, which should be healthy and alive, and also have as many aerial roots as possible. The cut is dried and treated with a fungicide, then the stem fragment is planted and secured and wait for adaptation. Experienced flower growers use a sterile instrument to avoid infection of the flower. The separated cuttings are placed on a moistened substrate. Moss works very well. For the first time, you can organize greenhouse conditions. As soon as the roots grow at least 5 centimeters long - young plant can be strengthened on permanent soil.
  2. Reproduction by shoots. This method is also called child division. Side shoots, that is, young plants that have already formed a new root and leaf system are carefully separated and strengthened on the new substrate.

Important! After transplantation, you need to care for the phalaenopsis carefully and carefully so as not to damage the fragile young plant.

Despite the fact that the Phalaenopsis orchid at home is unpretentious appearance, it should be replanted only when there is a clear need:

Important! You can replant Phalaenopsis during the flowering period, if necessary, but try to disturb the root system of the plant as little as possible. It is best to replant during the period of active root growth, then the plant adapts faster.

The transplant procedure itself is carried out carefully and very carefully. In several stages.

  1. The flower is removed from the pot and cleaned of the old substrate.
  2. Check the roots. If there are rotten or dried roots, cut them off.
  3. Place in a previously prepared container and add the mixture from above to the root collar, but not above it.

After transplanting, the plant does not need to be watered immediately. It is worth allowing micro-injuries on the roots to heal.

Some time after transplantation, fertilizing is carried out, which allows you to grow healthy flowers from young shoots.

To effectively care for a phalaenopsis orchid at home, use:

– 1 tablet per liter of water.
Complex fertilizers for growth and flowering.

Pests, diseases and important details

Indeed, treating a flower is much more difficult than caring for it. Common diseases in phalaenopsis are:

  • Root atrophy. Occurs due to improper watering and temperature conditions. Treated by changing care.
  • Root rotting. The reason for this may be improper watering, inappropriate humidity and air temperature. Replanting, treatment with fungicides, and changing conditions are necessary.
  • Yellowing of leaves. The reason is incorrect lighting, watering and temperature conditions. Treated by changing care and moving the flower into the shade.
  • Mold. Occurs when high humidity and reduced air temperature. It is treated with special drugs or similar drugs.

In this article we talked about how to properly care for phalaenopsis, identified the most important aspects care, transplantation, treatment and cultivation of this type of orchid. It is impossible to know everything about phalaenopsis, but you should always strive for it.


Due to unusual shape petals, this orchid is called a butterfly flower. He is very beautiful, elegant and bright. In a room or on a windowsill, this plant attracts the eye and delights with its sophistication. Phalaenopsis orchid is the topic of today’s article. Below you can read about its features, care, planting and transplanting.

Phalaenopsis Orchid

The Phalaenopsis orchid has a remarkable appearance. You can recognize it by its rosette of 4-6 dense leaves, elongated and slightly pointed towards the tip, arranged in 2 rows. The peduncle is slightly curved, up to 0.7 m. This species does not have false bulbs (thickenings on the stem), in which many types of orchids store moisture reserves.

The root system is represented by two types of roots. The first ones are located in different sides- V natural environment It is with them that the orchid grabs onto the bark and stones. The second ones are aerial roots, designed to extract water from the air. Absorption occurs due to velamen - a greenish tissue located on top of these roots, which has absorbent properties.

Interesting!

Spectacular and unusual is the Novelty orchid, a phalaenopsis hybrid native to Taiwan. This culture is distinguished by the fact that its flower stalks do not die off, but only “hibernate”, after which they bloom again, so throughout the year the plant is covered with bright buds.

Phalaenopsis flowers range from delicate to rich colors, with speckles, patterns, and stripes on the petals. The lip, the medial leaflet in the center of the bud, always has a brighter color - chocolate, scarlet, purple, green - at least several tones darker or richer than the circumferential petals.

How to care for a Phalaenopsis orchid at home?

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Experienced flower growers consider phalaenopsis to be the most simple view orchids in terms of care. Despite the sophistication of the plant, it does not require as much attention as all other plants of the epiphytic genus. But this does not mean that home care is not required at all. People who water flowers once a month (if they don’t forget) will not boast of beautiful flower buds, because care must be systematic and in accordance with the rules!

For the orchid, one place is selected immediately after purchase, where it grows long years. But regular rearrangements or movements of the pot, especially during flowering, lead to the death of the peduncle.

Phalaenopsis grows at room temperatures within +18...+24 degrees. If it exceeds +25 degrees, the plant begins to grow green mass, but the flowers will become worse. The lowest one, permissible temperature+12 degrees, but only by a short time, in winter.

It is recommended to place the flower in the light (south or southwest window). But only diffused light is allowed so that there are no burns on the leaves. If there is not enough light, the plant usually becomes stretched and stops blooming. In this case, he needs to provide backlighting so that the daylight hours are about 12 hours.

Watering an orchid

The phalaenopsis orchid flower is a tropical species. High humidity is vital for it. If there is not enough watering or air humidity decreases, the crop may stop blooming, stop growing, or even begin to die! But you also can’t pour the plant over the top, otherwise its roots will rot. How to water an orchid?

In the case of the phalaenopsis orchid, you need to learn the rule of two “Ps” - first the water “gets wet” and then “dries”. In this case, there will be more than enough moisture, and the roots will not rot. And since orchids of this type are usually grown in transparent pots, it is usually not difficult to determine the humidity. The fact is that when a flower lacks moisture, its roots take on a light gray color.

Droplets of water falling on the buds can easily harm the flowers, so care at home does not include spraying. And you need to water at the root or by immersing the pot in water.

On average, in summer the crop is watered every 2-3 days (if it is very hot and the soil dries quickly), in spring and autumn watering is carried out once a week, and in winter - once every 14 days, since the room is not hot and water evaporates slowly. To water a flower, you need to immerse the pot with the crop in water for about 15 minutes (in winter, 5 minutes is enough). It is advisable to do this in the morning or afternoon. The substrate and the orchid will absorb as much water as needed, and the rest must be drained.

Interesting!

If you water phalaenopsis with hard, unsettled water, after a while it will become covered with a whitish coating.

There is usually no benefit in feeding a phalaenopsis orchid if the substrate is already nutritious and prepared correctly. But, if a crop withers for no reason, it is recommended to take immediate action. As a rule, the flower is fed with purchased fertilizers specifically for orchids.

Features of flowering

The phalaenopsis orchid blooms 2 times a year - in spring and autumn. Sometimes - 3 times, but only when proper care And favorable conditions growth. And since the crop has virtually no dormant period, you can admire its excellent color and unusual buds throughout the year.

Since the buds of the phalaenopsis orchid bloom gradually, one after another, flowering can last 2-6 months - depending on care.

After flowering, when the flowers have fallen, there is always a pagon on which the buds were located. It is not advisable to touch it; it usually withers or new inflorescences may appear on it. In addition, this arrow serves as one of the methods of reproduction.

How to propagate Phalaenopsis orchid?

Phalaenopsis orchid propagation

Caring for this flower at home is not very difficult, so they often try to propagate it. Phalaenopsis is propagated by different methods.

  • Stem division is one of the most popular options. It is carried out 4 weeks after flowering. For this purpose it is cut off top part stem with the capture of the bud and takes root.
  • “Babies” often appear at the base of the neck or substrate. They can also be used for reproduction. Often their growth and appearance are stimulated with various hormonal drugs.
  • Sockets. A young rosette with 4 leaves is cut from the mother crop, and the cut site is treated with charcoal. Then the plant is immediately planted in a new pot.
  • For cuttings, 10-15 cm cuttings are taken, having 2 nodes with an axil. They are laid out on moistened sand with moss and covered with film.
  • Professional gardeners often propagate orchids from seeds, but this is difficult to do at home.

How often is a phalaenopsis orchid replanted?

Replanting a phalaenopsis orchid

When a phalaenopsis orchid is bought in a store, a very important question arises - does it need to be replanted? It is best to clarify this point with the seller, as there are different cases- it all depends on the soil in which the plant is located. But, as a rule, orchids are sold in a high-quality substrate, which is more than enough for long-term growth and development, so they do not require urgent replanting.

Most often, an orchid is transplanted when the root system is very overgrown, there is a lack of nutrients in the soil, improper care or development of diseases.

But how often is a phalaenopsis orchid replanted? To prevent the root system from being damaged by cramped conditions in the pot or frequent moving from pot to pot, replanting is done approximately once every 2-3 years. Caring for a phalaenopsis orchid at home requires compliance with the transplant time. Usually the procedure is carried out in the spring, but in summer, winter and autumn you should not put the crop under such stress!

How to replant a phalaenopsis orchid?

When replanting phalaenopsis, you need to take care of a new pot and substrate. The first thing that is important is the potty. A clay container (with a hole) will do, plastic pot(transparent) or wicker bamboo pots. When choosing, you should make sure that the container has holes in the bottom (for water drainage) and in the side walls (for lighting and ventilation of the root system).

A clay pot looks very beautiful and is convenient for the flower itself, but the soil in it dries out very quickly.

The substrate for plant transplantation is made from a small amount of activated carbon and crushed pieces of pine bark. In order for the bark to be disinfected, it is immersed in a saucepan, water is poured in and boiled for a quarter of an hour, stirring. And only after complete drying is it mixed with coal and used for replanting. Sphagnum moss is usually laid on top when the soil dries out quickly. If you don’t want to make your own substrate, you can purchase it at any flower shop.

When the soil in a new pot does not dry out for a week after watering, this indicates that the density of the substrate is too high. In this case, it must be urgently replaced so that the orchid does not rot!

The pot and substrate are ready, what to do next? After the phalaenopsis orchid is rid of the old pot, you just need to lightly pick off the old soil. But it cannot be completely removed. If you plant an orchid in absolutely new soil it can get sick, so the new pot must contain at least a small amount of the old substrate (but only if it is not infected with anything).

Place on the bottom of a new pot thin layer substrate, then place the plant. The roots usually occupy a lot of the area of ​​the pot, so the earth is sprinkled on top of them so that it spills out between the roots. It is also placed on the sides so that the orchid does not fall and feels good in its new place.

  • When insects appear, the orchid can be watered with warm water (+45…+50 degrees). This is not critical for the flower, but pests are afraid of this temperature.
  • Also, wiping the leaves with soapy water or alcohol helps control pests.
  • The preparations Fitoverm, Actellik, and Aktara will help remove the massive damage.

Diseases usually affect the phalaenopsis orchid if it is not cared for properly at home. So anthracnose occurs when there is excess moisture, rust - when the plant is weakened, fungi - when there is too much moisture. frequent watering. Most diseases of the Phalaenopsis orchid are treated with the drug “Skor”. Colloidal sulfur is also suitable for powdery mildew. Of course, any treatment must be accompanied by correction of care standards, because without proper maintenance it is impossible to get a beautiful, healthy flower.

If you want to purchase an exotic flower of extraordinary beauty for yourself, we recommend paying attention to Phalaenopsis. We are sure that this is something you will definitely like. In a flower shop, you can easily recognize these orchids by their gray-green powerful roots protruding from the planting containers, by rosettes of dense, beautiful leaves and, most importantly, by flowers reminiscent of tropical moths or fairy-tale butterflies sitting on tall peduncles. We will tell you about the nuances of caring for the Phalaenopsis orchid at home.

You will be amazed how many varieties of Phalaenopsis are on sale, what a variety there is fancy shapes, colors and aromas. Choose what you like. It is advisable to choose a butterfly orchid during the flowering period and with a large number of unopened buds. Then there will be a guarantee that you will admire the charming blooms for a long time.

On the specimen you like, pay attention to the leaves - on a healthy flower they should be dark green, fleshy, with a waxy sheen. If the leaves are wilted, slightly wrinkled or have suspicious spots, do not take this specimen, even if the seller sells it at half price. Also inspect the roots carefully. A healthy Phalaenopsis will have powerful, light green rhizomes that sit tightly in the substrate. They may protrude, this is normal. But the roots should not be brown, darkened and drying out. If the plant in the pot is very wobbly, then the root system is not viable at all. Do not buy such copies.

Prices for different varieties of Phalaenopsis vary, from 300 rubles to several thousand. If a plant has a minor defect, and you are offered to buy it at a well-reduced price, evaluate your abilities as a grower. If you have experience in growing orchids, you can buy such a flower. Care and maintenance will help you restore the decorative quality of the flower, and you will definitely wait for it to bloom magnificently.

Description of the flower

Phalaenopsis is exotic flowering plant Orchidaceae family, epiphyte. Its homeland is the tropical rainforests of Indonesia, Australia, South-East Asia. Phalaenopsis has only one growth point - its basal rosette of leaves. The average orchid grows up to one meter. Breeders bred hybrid varieties for every taste - from miniature bushes to giants. The color palette is also amazing: from pure white to almost black colors, as well as pink, yellow, purple, lilac and violet of all shades. In addition to pure tones, there are flowers with speckled petals, with spots, with streaks, and even with hieroglyphs.

Not so long ago, only the most advanced gardeners were engaged in breeding and growing Phalaenopsis, but now these orchids are increasingly found not only in flower greenhouses, where it is easiest to create suitable ones for them tropical conditions, but also in ordinary apartments exotic lovers. In this article we will tell you what conditions will be comfortable for a flower if it lives in the same apartment with you.

You can find more detailed information about the plant, as well as a description of the types and varieties of Phalaenopsis.

Caring for a Phalaenopsis orchid at home

Start taking care of the condition of your new pet immediately upon arriving home from the store. The flower does not tolerate a change of residence. If you have chosen a beautiful, strong plant, in which all the roots look strong and healthy, and the peduncle, tall and elastic, is strewn with flowers of extraordinary beauty, then the best thing is to leave the flower alone for a couple of weeks. How to care for Phalaenopsis at this time? No way! At this time, there is no need to water, feed, or replant the Phalaenopsis. There is also no need to place it on the windowsill next to other flowers; let it stand to the side, in partial shade, as if in quarantine. Inspect the flower regularly. If the substrate in the pot consists of large pieces of bark, the roots are gray-green, and the plant looks healthy, then it does not require replanting. Move the pot with the plant to the place of honor prepared for it among other green pets and begin to take care of it according to all the rules.

Healthy Phalaenopsis bushes are replanted no more than once every two to three years, when its substrate turns into dust. But there are good reasons to replant the plant urgently.

For example, during quarantine, you discovered that the leaves of Phalaenopsis began to wither and sag, and the soil, as it dried out, began to look like a caked sponge. Or if the plant has black spots or other signs of rot on its roots. In both cases, Phalaenopsis should be transplanted into another pot with a new substrate, and without waiting for the end of flowering.

Remove the plant from the planting container and carefully wash its root system under a warm shower. If the soil is poorly washed, leave the orchid in a bowl of water for a while. Then free the roots from the soil and shake off the water. Trim rotten, damaged or overly long roots. Sprinkle the sections with crushed activated charcoal or charcoal. Leave the Phalaenopsis for a while, maybe overnight, in a dry basin, so that all the cuts tighten and dry. The next morning, plant the plant in a new, pre-disinfected pot in a pot suitable for epiphytic plants. soil mixture. Place a layer of the largest pieces of substrate at the bottom of the pot, and use smaller pieces of substrate to fill the voids between the roots to the base of the rosette. Leave two to three cm free at the top of the pot, so that as the aerial roots grow there is a place to add the substrate. A large plant with dense, heavy leaves must be tied to a support and strengthened so that it does not wobble.

If the root system of a flower has been severely damaged, it will be difficult for it to recover. Help the plant. Place the flower and pot in a plastic bag for a couple of weeks to treat a sick plant greenhouse conditions with constant humidity and temperature. Ventilate it from time to time. First cut the peduncle and place it in a vase with settled water. It is better to sacrifice a peduncle than to lose the entire flower. Cut peduncle with butterfly flowers for a long time will serve you as a consolation.

Other reasons for transplanting Phalaenopsis into a new pot:

  • The landing capacity is too small. This can be determined not only by the roots that stick out above the pot, but by the roots that have filled the entire pot inside and displaced the substrate. The phalaenopsis should be transplanted into a slightly larger pot so that, in addition to the roots, it can contain a sufficient amount of substrate for support. It is better to transplant after flowering.
  • if all the leaves fell to one side during transportation, the peduncle with its support is also tilted, healthy roots stick out too much. Transplant the flower into a normal pot with good support, fill the voids with a suitable substrate.

If the orchid feels good, the leaves are elastic, the roots are light green and alive, we do not recommend disturbing the flower. If you want to transplant Phalaenopsis into a new beautiful flowerpot, then it is better to do this in early spring and only after the orchid has finished flowering.

In any case, after each transplant, do not water the plant for the first three to four days; allow the disturbed roots to heal their wounds.

The soil

Phalaenopsis belongs to epiphytic plants. In the wild they grow on trees. Their roots are aerial. They are used not only to strengthen the plant on the bark and branches of trees, but also to feed the plant from the air. The flower also receives moisture and oxygen through its powerful roots. Therefore, Phalaenopsis absolutely do not grow in ordinary garden or forest soil and do not tolerate prolonged flooding. They require a more loose, lightweight, moisture- and breathable substrate. Ready-made soil is suitable for epiphytic or orchid plants. We recommend that you study the composition of the soil. Sometimes it is not suitable for growing Phalaenopsis due to its high moisture holding capacity.

It is not at all difficult to prepare the soil yourself. Collect bark from fallen trees in the pine forest, dense, without resin. Grind it into pieces from 1 to 3 cm, add pieces of the same size charcoal, polystyrene foam, wine corks. Stir. Place in a saucepan and simmer for 10 minutes. The composition of the substrate is a little strange, but it will be suitable as a support for the Butterfly Orchid! If the air in the room is dry, you can add a little sphagnum moss to the substrate, just a little, otherwise it will fill the entire space and will not allow the roots to breathe freely. In addition, a large amount of moss will retain moisture, the excess of which can harm the roots. In any case, you should not overfill the pot with substrate, so as not to interfere with air circulation between the roots.

Humidity

Tropical beauty grows better when high humidity ambient air. If there is not enough of it, Phalaenopsis may stop growing, its buds will stop opening, and the flowers will begin to dry out. It is necessary to maintain humidity in the room with the flower within 60 - 80%. The minimum permissible humidity is 30-40%. At low humidity and high temperatures, you should place the flower pot in a high tray with wet expanded clay or pebbles. Under no circumstances should the pot stand in water. Water can be poured into wide containers or plates that are placed around the orchid pot. Phalaenopsis loves regular spraying of its leaves and the surrounding air in the morning, especially during those periods of its life when the heating is turned on in houses. By night there should be no water in the leaf axils or at the growing point.

Pot for Phalaenopsis and watering

For this orchid, a not very large translucent plastic pot or similar glass container with holes in the bottom and sides, in which the condition of the substrate and root system will always be under your control, is suitable. The plant needs a pot for support. The pot size should be suitable for the plant's strong root system. In a pot that is too small, the roots will be injured and stick out, while in a pot that is too large, moisture will accumulate and the substrate will not dry out well, which will eventually lead to rotting of the roots.

A translucent pot is perfect

If you don’t really like the picture of intertwined roots in the substrate, you can hide it by placing the pot in a wide multi-colored pot. Drainage holes at the bottom of the pot are required, since water stagnation is not allowed due to the risk of root rotting. Transparent pot Another good thing is that you will constantly watch how the substrate dries out after the next watering. At normal humidity, healthy roots have green color As they dry out, they become lighter. Dry substrate and light roots serve as a signal for the next watering.

If you nevertheless planted Phalaenopsis in a dark pot, you will have to determine the soil moisture at the depth of the pot by touch. Carefully rake the substrate one or two cm deep, try to see if it is damp there. If it's dry, you can water it again. Drain excess water from the pan. Use only settled or boiled water. Previously, they used rainwater, but with the deterioration of the environment in cities, many harmful impurities began to appear in precipitation.

How to water Phalaenopsis:

  • in hot weather - every 2-3 days;
  • in spring and autumn – once a week;
  • in winter - once every two weeks.

If you notice that condensation often collects on the walls of the pot between waterings, then make additional holes in the walls of the pot for better air circulation.

Let's talk about another popular method of watering Phalaenopsis. The pot with the plant is placed for two to three hours in a large container with warm, settled water so that the water covers 1/3 of the pot. This bathing can be replaced by long-term watering - continuously, for 20 minutes, pour warm water into the pot until the substrate in the pot is completely wet and saturated with moisture in the required amount. The orchid's roots will noticeably turn green. After bathing, place the pot in a tray so that excess water comes out through the drainage holes. Excess water must be drained immediately.

If the room temperature long time stays above 30 degrees, bathing is carried out once every 5 days.

We draw your attention to the fact that water quality is an important factor in the well-being of Phalaenopsis. If you water it with tap water, even warm, then over time rusty or white spots will appear on the leaves and roots, depending on the excess of salts in the water. It is possible to get rid of plaque with milk or lemon water, which should be used to wash the leaves of the plant. If you use distilled water for irrigation, which contains no salts and trace elements at all, you should add fertilizers for epiphytic plants to such water when watering. It is best to water with filtered or boiled water, heated by two to three degrees. above room temperature.

Sometimes, for growing Phalaenopsis, special epiphytic wicker bamboo or wooden baskets are used, in which the light green roots of the flower with a silver tint develop freely, effectively wrapping around the slats of the basket, both inside and outside it.

But we do not recommend ceramic pots for growing Phalaenopsis. Powerful roots grow into the walls of such a pot and complicate the process of removing the plant from the pot when replanting. Serious damage to the root system of the flower is possible.

Location and lighting

Phalaenopsis is very popular good lighting. The duration of daylight should be at least 12 hours. It is better to place a flower pot on a windowsill in a south-east, east or west direction. It is better not to place it on windowsills facing south - the leaves may get burned. But not far from the southern windows, on a table or hanging shelf, this orchid will grow beautifully. If you only have north-facing windows, only a place directly on the windowsill is suitable for an orchid. © site

From autumn to spring the plant will need additional lighting. Don't worry - Phalaenopsis grows well in artificial light. You can use this property when choosing a place in the back of the living room. You just need to keep in mind that over time, Phalaenopsis leans toward the light with its entire body. Therefore, it must be occasionally rotated 180 degrees to prevent it from tipping over or falling out of the pot.

Lighting is especially necessary for a flower when forcing a peduncle and setting buds. At this time, it is advisable to place the pot closer to the light and not disturb it. Do not turn or move from place to place. Leave these manipulations until the last bud opens. Now, during flowering, you can move the pot deeper into the room, into well-lit partial shade.

Temperature

Summer temperature of the flower is allowed from 24 to 30 degrees. Basically, it's normal room temperature, under which we all live in the summer. If the temperature is above 32 degrees for a long time, the flower may lose its buds and flowers, and the leaves will begin to wither. Try to keep the temperature within reasonable limits by spraying the flower and surrounding area, placing the pot in a tray with wet pebbles, and using a split system. To stimulate education flower buds, we recommend keeping night temperatures five to six degrees lower than daytime temperatures.

In winter, the optimal temperature for the growth of Phalaenopsis is 18 - 25 degrees. The plant will withstand a temperature of 10–15 degrees for a couple of days; if longer, it is not a fact that it will not get sick. Under the influence of low temperatures, the roots of Phalaenopsis stop absorbing moisture, and the plant begins to consume nutrients and water previously accumulated in the leaves. The leaves begin to wrinkle and lose their elasticity. Beginning flower growers think that the orchid does not have enough moisture, and they begin to water the plant intensively, which worsens the situation. Frozen roots cannot absorb water and rot. In order to avoid this situation, we recommend keeping a thermometer on the windowsill next to the pot to monitor the temperature. Place the flower pot so that it does not come into contact with the cold glass.

Phalaenopsis love Fresh air. Do not forget to regularly ventilate the room, even in winter, while protecting the flower from drafts, so as not to provoke any.

During the winter dormancy of Phalaenopsis, a couple of weeks after flowering, it is advisable to keep the flower in a cool place, at a temperature of 15 – 17 degrees. Keep in mind - the lower the temperature, the lower the humidity in the room should be, less spraying, less watering. And vice versa. Temperatures below 5 degrees are considered critical for a flower.

How to fertilize a Phalaenopsis orchid

Properly selected fertilizers for the Phalaenopsis orchid are a very important component of its growth and flowering. These orchids obtain all their nutrients from their roots. Therefore, it is worth feeding it with liquid water-soluble fertilizers for orchids. Kemira-Lux fertilizers are suitable in a dose reduced by 2 times. If the plant has few leaves, it needs to be fed with orchid fertilizers, where nitrogen predominates. But don't overdo it! Read the instructions. Otherwise, the growth of green leaves will be to the detriment of the formation of the peduncle. If there are enough leaves, from 4 to 6 in a rosette, but there is still no peduncle, then you should start feeding Phalaenopsis with fertilizers with a high content of phosphorus and potassium, until the beginning of flowering.

In flower shops, before selling Phalaenopsis, they are sometimes fed to stimulate flowering with long-lasting fertilizers in the form of small balls. These balls gradually dissolve in the substrate over time. Keep this in mind when you decide to feed your pet for the first time. First, make sure all store-bought fertilizers are dissolved. It is better to wait and give the plant a break from them for a couple of months.

The flower is usually fed once every two weeks in the summer, and once a month in the winter. There is no need to feed Phalaenopsis during flowering or dormancy!

Phalaenopsis flowering

Many people wonder how to make Phalaenopsis bloom at home? Different varieties of this butterfly orchid bloom in at different ages. You need to know the age of your plant. Why isn't your Phalaenopsis orchid blooming? Perhaps because he is still young. If you bought a non-flowering bush, and at home it is clearly not going to please you with a flower shoot, do not get upset ahead of time. Some Phalaenopsis bloom at the age of one and a half years, others - when they are 3 years old. You can determine the age by counting the number of shoots. An adult plant ready for flowering has from 5 to 8 pieces. If there are fewer shoots and the orchid is gaining buds, this is not always good. It happens that a Phalaenopsis orchid that is too young does not have enough strength to recover after flowering, and it may even die. If you have such a case, and a young specimen has thrown away its peduncle, it is better to cut it off.

Different varieties of Phalaenopsis bloom in different time of the year. For some, the peak of flowering occurs at the end of spring - summer, for others - in winter. Some bloom for two months, while others continue to bloom for six months or more. Phalaenopsis flowers are very dense; they stay firmly on the peduncle for a month to two. The flower stalks themselves live much longer. Large-flowered Phalaenopsis bloom almost all year round due to the ability of their peduncles to lengthen, branch and produce new buds during flowering. After flowering, such flower stalks should not be cut off, because they will develop and bloom more than once. In addition, so-called air “babies” often form on them.

Mature plant produces several flower stalks per year - in mid-spring and early autumn. If the butterfly orchid shoots in autumn or winter, you should take care that the flower stalk does not die due to the short daylight hours. We recommend that you purchase a phyto lamp - a special lamp for artificial lighting of plants in dark time of the year. These lamps provide a lot of light without drying out the air around the flowers. Turn on such lamps when there is a need to extend daylight hours to 10–12 hours.

One more a necessary condition For some varieties of Phalaenopsis to bloom, there is a difference in day and night temperatures of 5–6 degrees, preferably throughout the year. Creating such conditions can be problematic. From late spring to early autumn, these orchids can be kept on outdoors. Then the difference between day and night temperatures is formed naturally. At other times, when Phalaenopsis are indoors, you will have to ventilate the room with the flower well at night, not forgetting that orchids are afraid of drafts.

Rest period

Phalaenopsis has faded, what to do next? After the inflorescences fall, give the Phalaenopsis a little rest. Move the pot to a darker, cooler place. Reduce watering by three times. Do not feed, replant, or spray. Possibly old lower leaves They will turn yellow and dry out - this is a natural process, do not be alarmed. The peduncle itself, after flowering, may dry out, then prune the orchid. In some varieties of Phalaenopsis, the peduncle remains green. In this case, the following options are possible:

  • You can leave the peduncle as is. Then new buds will appear on it over time.
  • You can cut the peduncle to the first bud, then over time a new peduncle will grow from this bud.
  • You can cut off the peduncle completely and place it in a vase with warm clean water. Then, over time, he may have a new kidney.

Such a period of rest is simply necessary for an adult plant in order to accumulate more strength for new flowering. In no more than three months, new buds will form on the flower and flowering will begin.

If this does not happen, the Phalaenopsis did not bloom at the right time, we need to find the reason. Read the rules for caring for Phalaenopsis from the beginning, find your mistakes and try to stimulate its flowering in a few months.

Cut Phalaenopsis

What could be more beautiful than a bouquet of orchids? Bouquets made from tropical varieties of orchids are presented as rarely as they are treated to real aged French champagne. From the 19th century to the present day, these are the most expensive flowers grown for cutting. Only some types of orchids can stand for many days and even weeks and at the same time maintain freshness and aroma, and Phalaenopsis is one of them.

If you decide to purchase cut Phalaenopsis, pay attention, first of all, to its petals and sepals.

  • Flowers with soft, thin, matte petals and sepals tend not to last long.
  • Glassiness of the perianth leaves and protruding veins occur in fading flowers.

If the petals and sepals feel strong, and even hard, and look shiny, like wax, then you can buy such a Phalaenopsis; it will last in a vase with water for a long time. And you can still extend his life. Here are some tips:

  1. If you buy Phalaenopsis in the autumn-winter period, try to carefully pack it to protect it from cold and wind.
  2. Do not turn the bouquet upside down - the transport liquid will leak out of the capsule.
  3. If you brought home a bouquet from the cold, do not rush to empty it from the packaging. Let it sit in a warm room for at least an hour. A sudden change in temperature can be more dangerous for a flower than a lack of water.
  4. Before placing the flower in a vase, use a sharp knife to renew the oblique cut of the stem under running water. This operation must be repeated every two to three days to avoid blockage of the conducting vessels through which water rises to the flowers.
  5. The water in the vase should be clean and soft. Use boiled, distilled or filtered water at just above room temperature. No preservatives should be added to the water. Moreover, special inscriptions are usually written on the labels of preservatives: “Attention! Not intended for orchids! You don’t have to completely change the water in the vase; just add a fresh portion little by little.
  6. Keep in mind that cut Phalaenopsis, like potted Phalaenopsis, do not like cold and drafts. Under no circumstances should they be stored in the refrigerator. However, they also do not like bright sun, dry indoor air and heat above 32 degrees.
  7. Do not place a vase of flowers next to a vase filled with fruit. Ripe fruits emit ethylene gas, which shortens the lifespan of orchid flowers. Wilted flowers also have the property of releasing gas. Therefore, they should be immediately removed from the peduncle and, once fallen, from the table.

Phalaenopsis can be combined with other flowers. For example, it looks great in a bouquet with roses, peony tulips or peonies. Only its stem should be placed in a common vase in a separate container or test tube with distilled water. Then he is not afraid if a preservative is added to the common vase to extend the life of the bouquet.
Cut branches of Phalaenopsis are valued and loved for their durability, tenderness and high decorative value. They are so beautiful, colorful and unusual that they are often used in wedding decorations. © site

Conclusion

Phalaenopsis is considered the most unpretentious of all types of orchids, and the most beautiful and long-blooming. During flowering, it invariably becomes the center of the entire life of the family. A beautiful and healthy plant speaks of a well-kept home in which peace and mutual understanding reign. If you take care of it like a family member, with love and understanding, Phalaenopsis will live with you for many years, decorating the interior of your apartment with its extraordinary beauty.

The phalaenopsis orchid flower is so similar to a bright tropical moth that the German botanist Karl Blume, who discovered this plant on one of the islands of the Malay Archipelago in 1825, actually confused it with a winged insect. This is how the genus name was born - phalaenopsis (translated from Greek phalania means “night butterfly”, opsis means “resemblance”.

The Phalaenopsis genus includes about 70 species, and to date, breeders have bred great amount hybrid orchids. Designers value them for their exotic flowers that do not fade for 4–6 months. But abroad, faded phalaenopsis plants are simply thrown away. Our flower growers have learned to prolong the life of orchids, achieve frequent and abundant flowering.


The microclimate can be better controlled by devices

Choosing phalaenopsis in the store

Phalaenopsis has acquired a reputation as a finicky and capricious plant. In fact, a healthy orchid causes no more trouble than the familiar fuchsia, and phalaenopsis is even less demanding on temperature.

The problem is that it is impossible to buy a healthy orchid in a store: manufacturers force it to bloom by feeding it with heavy doses of fertilizers. As a result, it blooms “as in last time", for which he pays with the loss of immunity. Therefore, when purchasing, you need to carefully examine the plant.

Symptoms of phalaenopsis diseases or pest damage:

  • brown spots on flowers or leaves - the cause may be a fungal disease;
  • yellowing, drying leaves with poor turgor;
  • peduncle drying out at the base;
  • rotting roots;
  • sticky droplets on back side leaves - a sign that putrefactive flies have appeared in the substrate. The insects themselves do not harm the plant, but sooty fungus appears on the sticky products of their vital activity over time;
  • a silvery coating on the back of the leaves is evidence of spider mite infestation;
  • tubercles on the leaves are a consequence of damage to a fungal disease or scale insects.

Such symptoms are especially often noticeable in phalaenopsis, which are sold at sales. Flower growers are tempted by the low price and buy real “goons” that can infect the entire home collection with fungus.

Phalaenopsis brought from the store must be kept separate from other orchids for at least a month. For prevention, all leaves of the plant should be wiped on both sides with a swab dipped in a solution of Fitosporin. A week later the procedure is repeated.

To ensure that phalaenopsis retains its marketable appearance, many manufacturers attach a small container with peat, foam rubber or other material that retains moisture well at the base of the stem. Part of the roots are immersed in it.

Fungi or bacteria may appear on foam rubber that is constantly wet due to watering. In addition, the substrate is oversaturated with fertilizers. The flower needs to be relieved of this load as soon as possible and replanted. If the plant is relatively healthy, then replanting will not interfere with flowering.

General rules for caring for phalaenopsis at home:

  • The optimal temperature for plants is from +20 to +25 °C. But orchids feel good even with short-term temperature drops to +12 or increases to +35 ° C;
  • the pot with phalaenopsis should be in a well-lit place, but the plant does not tolerate direct sunlight, its leaves become covered with burns;
  • orchids are very susceptible to infections. Therefore, any cut should be immediately disinfected by sprinkling with crushed activated carbon, ground cinnamon or covered with cosmetic blue clay (without perfume additives). Iodine and brilliant green are not suitable as they burn fabrics;
  • Before trimming the plant, the entire tool is wiped with medical alcohol;
  • dry and rotten roots, peduncles and children are cut off with a knife or scalpel. Scissors and pruning shears crush tissue, further injuring the plant;
  • Wilted and yellowed leaves cannot be cut off. You need to either wait until they fall off on their own, or cut the leaf blade along the vein and carefully separate both halves from the stem with your hands;
  • at the end of flowering, cut off only the dry part of the arrow, 1 cm above the upper dormant bud. Next time the flowers will appear on the same peduncle.

Phalaenopsis transplant

Adult phalaenopsis are transplanted in two cases:

  • after the purchase;
  • according to plan, usually in the spring, when the plants do not bloom: if the water for irrigation is hard, then once every 2 years, if soft - once every 3-4 years.

In nature, orchids cling to trees and stones with their roots. The root system must receive light, air and moisture. Therefore, plants are planted mainly in transparent pots: plastic or glass, with several large holes in the bottom.


Transparent pot - optimal solution

The new pot should be at least one and a half times wider and taller than the previous one. It is filled with pre-moistened orchid substrate or pine bark. The substrate consists of pieces of bark, sphagnum moss, and sometimes with the addition of coconut fiber or peat.

Fresh bark cannot be used, since due to its high resin content it does not absorb moisture well. Ready-boiled bark is sold in stores, but you can prepare it yourself:

  • in the evening, chop pieces of bark, add water and boil;
  • drain the water, add fresh bark and boil;
  • change the water in the morning, put a pan of water on medium heat and boil for at least 8 hours;
  • in the evening, change the water and boil the bark again;
  • the next morning change the water and boil for 8 hours.
  • In the evening, drain the water and spread the bark on the balcony to dry. Use it only after it has completely dried.

If you buy sphagnum separately, it is better to choose moss with green specks: it is alive, will grow in the pot and release disinfecting substances.

The day before transplanting, water the phalaenopsis. To make it easier to remove an orchid from an old pot, crush it or even cut it in half: this way there is less chance of damaging the roots.

The root system is carefully examined. Dry, broken and rotten roots are cut off, and the wounds are sprinkled with cinnamon. The plant is dried for an hour until the wounds heal. If the orchid blooms and there are no rotten roots, the root system is simply dipped in the Fitosporin solution and left to dry for about an hour.

Phalaenopsis is planted so that all the roots are covered with a moist substrate. This is especially important for newly purchased plants: their roots, which were in a container with peat or foam rubber, are accustomed to excess moisture. The substrate is pressed down a little.

Watering phalaenopsis

Orchids need moderate, even watering. The substrate should always be slightly moist and should not be allowed to dry out. In the warm season, the frequency of watering is once every 5–7 days, in the cold season – once every 10–14. It is not recommended to water plants from below by pouring water into a tray. Use only distilled water.

Two main watering options:

  1. The pot is placed in a deep tray and a liter of water is poured on top, and after 5 minutes - another liter (the water flows into the pan). If the orchid does not bloom, you can put it in the shower with a water temperature of approximately +25 °C. Then the water that gets into the axils of the leaves is blotted with a napkin.
  2. The pot is placed in a container with water. The water level should be equal to the level of the substrate in the pot. After 15–20 minutes, remove the pot.

Phalaenopsis is able to absorb moisture with its leaves. Once every 2-3 days they are wiped with a damp cloth.

Phalaenopsis fertilizer

An orchid cannot be fertilized during flowering, otherwise it will drop its flowers. The rest of the time, once every two weeks the plant is fed with a special fertilizer for orchids.

A vitamin cocktail is also very effective:

  • one tablet of succinic acid;
  • vitamin B1 ampoule;
  • vitamin B3 ampoule;
  • vitamin B6 ampoule;
  • vitamin B12 ampoule;
  • glucose ampoule or teaspoon of honey.

Succinic acid is dissolved in a small amount of hot water; when it cools down, it is mixed with vitamins. This concentrate is added to 3 liters of water. Orchids are shedding plain water(1 liter), and then place it in a container with a vitamin cocktail for 15–20 minutes. Shelf life of the liquid from succinic acid– 3 days, without it – 2 weeks, but you need to store it in the refrigerator.

The cocktail is used:

  • immediately after flowering;
  • once every 4–6 weeks during the rest period;
  • at the beginning of budding.

Once a month, phalaenopsis is watered with garlic water: 3 large cloves of garlic are crushed with a press, pour 2 liters of water and leave for 24 hours in a warm place. Garlic water stimulates the flowering of orchids.

It is useful to add hydrogen peroxide to water for irrigation: it kills pathogenic microflora and saturates the roots with oxygen. You need 2-3 drops of peroxide per liter of water.

Reproduction of phalaenopsis

Phalaenopsis reproduce in two ways:

  • children;
  • seeds.

Receiving and boarding children

Phalaenopsis babies grow either from the root or on the peduncle. Basal children do not need to be planted separately: just replant mother plant together with them in a large pot, and you will get a lush bush with several flower stalks.

The baby, grown from the bud of the peduncle, is cut off along with a piece of the arrow when the young plant produces 2 roots 5 cm long. The baby is dipped in Fitosporin, dried and transplanted into a glass filled with a mixture of sphagnum moss and coconut fiber. For the first month, the plant is kept in a greenhouse or under a glass jar.

If the phalaenopsis does not produce children for a long time, the bud on the peduncle is “awakened” by lubricating it with cytokinin paste. But this must be done in the spring or autumn, since in the summer, due to the heat, the bud will develop not into a child, but into a bud.

Another way to get babies is to “rejuvenate” the orchid. An adult plant is removed from the substrate and the lower part with old roots is cut off. The top with young roots is planted as usual. Then the “stump” is planted in a separate pot. In a few months, babies will appear on it.

Propagation by seeds

Reproduction of phalaenopsis by seeds is an interesting, but very difficult task. First, you need to carefully, using a toothpick, take pollen from under the “stigma” of one flower and place it under the “stigma” of another. The capsule (pod) matures in about six months. When it bursts, the dusty seeds are collected and mixed in a disposable syringe with 1.5 ml of hydrogen peroxide.

The resulting liquid is poured a few drops into previously prepared sterilized jars with a nutrient medium based on corn starch and agar-agar. The jars are closed with lids. If mold does not appear inside, then within 7–10 days orchid embryos (tiny green balls) will begin to hatch.

Read about it in the second part of the material.