How to soften old asphalt at home. How and from what you can make real asphalt yourself

In order to save money, today they often resort to restoring asphalt that has already been used. Let's take a closer look at how to use old asphalt And what you need to do.

Recycling of asphalt is possible only after regeneration, which is carried out at the plant. But this process is simple and allows you to carry out all the work yourself.

Having thoroughly compacted the soil at the site of future asphalt laying work, we build a cushion of sand and crushed stone, water it and compact the layer again. At this point, the preparation of the base is completed - now you need to acquire the starting material that remains with you after dismantling the old coating, or simply buy old asphalt. You will also need several kilograms of bitumen (preferably No. 3, but No. 4 is also possible) and physical strength.

In order to melt old asphalt, we load it into a metal container along with purchased bitumen and heat it. To do this, simply place the container over the fire. We constantly stir the composition until it melts to a homogeneous mass, after which we add a little more crushed stone and sand so that the mixture has a crumbly consistency. The recycled asphalt can then be laid over the surface of the previously formed base. To avoid the compound sticking to the surface of the paver, you can treat the sealing surface of the device with old oil.

That, in fact, is all you need to know about how to use old asphalt at home.

Recycling of asphalt at the plant, as mentioned above, is carried out using the regeneration method. In this case, when mixing the molten composition of old asphalt, new mineral fillers and plasticizers are sometimes added to it, in addition to standard bitumen.

Recycling of asphalt to improve the efficiency of recovery plants is best done after grinding. This method also significantly increases the accuracy of the batch recipe. But, in this case, you have to additionally deal with the adhesion of asphalt material to the working elements of the crushers. The solution to this problem was thermal crushing in steam plants. In such units, during crushing, the material is heated to 80°C. But this is abroad, and on domestic production To regenerate old asphalt, in the standard version, conventional installations for mixing such compositions are used. The installations are also equipped with additional equipment for storing, transporting and dosing the asphalt concrete mixture.

Today we will talk about how to make or produce high-quality asphalt at home with your own hands.

We will also consider methods, proportions and technologies self-made asphalt made from bitumen, sand, crushed stone and old asphalt. Let's learn how to properly lay homemade asphalt on a personal plot

First of all, let's look at what classic industrial asphalt is made of?
Asphalt concrete is made from crushed stone, sand (to better fill small holes that crushed stone cannot fill), mineral filler (sandstone, limestone and others are used for better enveloping) and bitumen (a kind of binding material, “glue”). The recipe may also include gravel. Each component in the production of asphalt concrete is necessary for better compaction of the asphalt surface.

Types of asphalt

Asphalt concrete, depending on its components, can be sand (sand+bitumen), crushed stone (crushed stone+sand+bitumen+mineral powder) and gravel (gravel+crushed stone+bitumen+mineral powder). Only the correct proportion of these components can result in high-quality asphalt.

Also, asphalt laying can be hot or warm. But the difference in degrees is not that big. During hot laying, the temperature of the asphalt mixture ranges from 130 to 170°C; during cold laying, it should not be lower than 80°C. Cold laying of asphalt concrete is used for local (pothole) repairs

Production of asphalt in a factory

The production of asphalt concrete takes place in several stages. First, the quality of the source material (crushed stone, bitumen and mineral additives) is controlled. After this, the process of processing inert materials begins. As already mentioned, the production of a standard asphalt mixture is made from crushed stone, sand, mineral material and bitumen.

To begin with, the sand is sifted, and the crushed stone is separated into various sizes fractions (from 5 to 20 mm). Next, in accordance with the recipe, they enter a special drum for drying. A high temperature is maintained inside the drum in order to completely remove water from the mixture during the manufacturing process, since it impairs the strength of the future asphalt concrete. In addition to the fact that sand and crushed stone (possibly adding screenings) are dried in the bunker at a temperature of about one hundred and sixty degrees, they are mixed together. Simultaneously with the drying of solid materials, the bitumen in the tanks is heated to the same one hundred and sixty degrees. During the heating process, it is very important to maintain the desired temperature; the binder material must not be too liquid or too hard.

At the next stage of production after heating, all components of asphalt concrete (crushed stone, sand, mineral additives and bitumen) are mixed. The material is mixed with special blades in a separate hopper.

Mixing is necessary for better enveloping, adhesion of bitumen with grains of crushed stone and sand; mineral additives also improve the quality of asphalt concrete (filling unnecessary voids into which water can get and destroy the road). In some plants, the asphalt mixture is passed through a series of sieves during mixing, thus separating the asphalt into required quantity portions with uniform distribution of asphalt concrete components.

For asphalt, it is very important to maintain the proportion during production, since the quality of the future road depends on this. After all, asphalt can melt in summer and crack in winter precisely because of incorrect selection of components and installation temperature.

After thorough mixing, the hot asphalt enters a storage bin (where the temperature is also maintained at a high temperature).

Recipe for making asphalt at home:

Take old compacted asphalt and crumble it into pieces measuring 5x5x5cm. Add bitumen crushed into the same 5x5x5cm pieces. Proportions 3:1.

Place a barrel or deep trough on a fire, pour bitumen into it first, then asphalt, and cook so that the fire produces more fire rather than coal. You can also add used oil there, or old roofing felt.

And cook, stir periodically with a wooden stick until the whole mass becomes liquid. Moreover, it is better not to remove the stick; you must always keep one end in the barrel. The finished asphalt becomes liquid and is divided into a more liquid fraction, which floats to the top, and all the pebbles sink down.

You need to pour asphalt from a barrel into a bucket in the following way: tilt it, the upper edge rests on the substituted bucket, and begin to scoop out the contents, raking heavy fractions from the bottom with a shovel.
To pour asphalt into the next bucket, you must first mix the entire mass in the barrel, otherwise all the light fraction will pour out first. And it contains a lot of bitumen, but it contains few mineral additives.
Take this into account when pouring, otherwise you will not achieve the desired effect.

While you are pouring, keep the barrel of asphalt on the fire all the time; it is better to place its bottom on the coals so that the mass is very hot all the time. Once you pour the asphalt into the bucket, be sure to read the molten asphalt from the walls of the barrel; then it will not cool down and accumulate on the wall.

Please note that old asphalt will boil down by more than 2 times. And if you have a standard 200-liter barrel, then you need to fill it halfway, and then stirring and tilting it will not be so difficult. Even such a barrel will take 4-6 hours to cook. It will require 15 buckets: 12 of asphalt, 3 of bitumen.

When you pour asphalt, level it wooden board and immediately throw small crushed stone on top before everything has time to thicken. If there is some asphalt left in the bucket, you can put it on the fire next to the barrel and melt it next time.
And after cooking, be sure to clean the bottom of the barrel from slag that burns to the walls and bottom.

Another way to make your own asphalt with your own hands:

For 12 buckets of old compacted asphalt, crushed into pieces ranging in size from 5x5x5cm to 10x10x5cm, add 3 buckets of bitumen, crushed into pieces no larger than 5x5x5cm.

First pour bitumen into the barrel, then asphalt. To cook so that the fire produces more flames rather than coals, you can use waste oil, old roofing material from the roof, especially if rotten wood is used as firewood.
When it becomes more or less liquid, periodically stir with a wooden stick for uniform heating, keep the end of the stick in the barrel where the asphalt is being cooked, without removing it.
It is convenient to cook on a slope by placing bricks under the barrel, one brick on the hill side, and two supports with two bricks on top of each other on the slope side.
When cooked, the molten asphalt becomes liquid, easily stirred with a wooden stick or shovel, and is divided into a more liquid fraction at the top and with pebbles at the bottom.
To pour asphalt into a bucket, pairs of bricks are removed from the side of the slope and placed in two rows on either side of the intended slope of the barrel so that the barrel does not roll to the sides.
Then the barrel is tilted and placed along the slope, resting its upper edge on a substituted bucket, and the contents are poured into the bucket, helping with a shovel, scooping up heavier fractions from the bottom.

Before pouring, the asphalt in the barrel is mixed each time. Anyway, the lighter fraction is poured first, containing more bitumen and less mineral additives, which must be taken into account when pouring.
Having filled the bucket, hold it so that it does not tip over the slope, and return the barrel to a vertical position so that its bottom lies on the coals from the fire and the contents continue to heat up while the filling process takes place. After returning the barrel
In a vertical position, you need to scrape the melted asphalt from the wall to the bottom with a wooden plank so that it does not cool on the wall.
You can dig a hole for a bucket and fill it with bricks, in this case, at the beginning of pouring, the bucket is placed on the bricks at the same level with the ground, and during subsequent pours, the bricks are gradually removed from the hole so that the bucket sinks deeper
and the barrel, leaning on the edge of the bucket, tilted lower each time until the bucket was buried to its full height and the barrel lay completely on the ground.
If, from the beginning of cooking, you place a bucket filled with asphalt and bitumen next to the barrel on the fire, then you can additionally weld two more buckets of cast asphalt while the asphalt in the barrel is being cooked.

Old asphalt is boiled down by more than half. A 200-liter barrel should be filled no more than halfway (15 six-liter buckets - 12 asphalt and 3 bitumen), otherwise it will be difficult to mix and turn a full barrel. This barrel is brewed for 4 to 6 hours.
When pouring, the asphalt is leveled with a wooden stick or board, and fine crushed stone is immediately thrown onto the poured area while the asphalt is still liquid. The asphalt, which thickened in the bucket and remained in it, is left for the next cooking, to be placed in the same bucket next to the barrel on the fire and melted.
Cast asphalt melts much easier than compressed asphalt. The barrel and bucket must be cleaned every time after cooking by beating off the slag that burns to the walls and bottom, otherwise the cooking time next time will increase quite significantly. Speaking about asphalt, I immediately want to say that this building material It has more disadvantages than advantages in relation to summer cottage. Asphalt pavement has only a few main advantages - low cost, high strength, simple technology creation and versatility. Often asphalt is chosen only because it has the lowest price compared to materials for paving garden paths such as paving slabs, paving stones, decking, natural stone etc.

The disadvantages of asphalt are very significant factors that affect not only landscape design garden plot. Among the most significant disadvantages are:

1. In hot weather, asphalt evaporates and exposes the human body to harmful substances. Besides this myself bad smell will not allow you to have a rich rest in the garden, which is what we need.

2. Asphalt coating has practically no decorative ability, so it is not only not suitable for decorating a site, but on the contrary, it will worsen the situation. Asphalt paths practically do not fit into garden styles, which is also very bad. The only exception is colored asphalt, to which various pigments are added, so that the coating can be not only the usual gray color, but also green, pink, blue, etc.

3. If laid poorly, asphalt quickly collapses winter period: water gets into the cracks, freezes, and when it freezes, it destroys the coating.

4. During the heat, the asphalt melts.

As you can see, the disadvantages of asphalt pavement are more significant than the advantages, but despite this, it is recommended to build asphalt paths at functional nodes of the garden: for example, between the garage and the utility block. It is strictly forbidden to build asphalt paths near recreation areas, due to the harmfulness of asphalt.
How to lay asphalt with your own hands?

In order to lay asphalt at your dacha with your own hands, you need to carefully prepare the area, know the technology of laying asphalt, and have at least a homemade manual asphalt roller.

You should immediately draw your attention to the fact that it is very difficult to make asphalt yourself, because... it is necessary to heat the bitumen, mix it with crushed stone and additives and know the correct proportions. Since asphalt is not expensive, it is best to order ready mixture at a road repair company. In this case, you will not lose a lot of money, but the asphalt will be delivered to you directly to the installation site hot, all that remains is to quickly level it, compact it and roll it.

Preparing the area for asphalting with your own hands

First of all, we mark the boundaries future track from asphalt. At this point, it is necessary to remove a layer of soil (at least 30 cm, it all depends on the purpose of the path) and make sure that no tree roots pass near the future path, otherwise they will soon begin to destroy the asphalt. If there are roots, cut them out with an axe. After this, we install curbs along the entire perimeter of the path, which will be the boundaries.

The role of the curb is not only to prevent the spread of asphalt, but also a decorative function. To install borders, we dig a small, level trench and plant them on cement mortar into this trench. To create an even border, we stretch the rope from the beginning to the end of the sides of the path and guide ourselves along this rope. Bricks can be used as a border, laid not only on side faces, but also askew.

Next, we begin to create a cushion under the asphalt. We thoroughly compact the bottom of the trench for the path, fill it with the first layer of crushed stone (10-15 cm thick, coarse fraction) and compact it again. On this layer we pour another layer of crushed stone, but only of a finer fraction, the layer thickness is no more than 10 cm. Well, last layer– sandy, about 5-10 cm. As soon as the pillow is created, fill it with water and, using a roller, carefully roll it out.

To prevent water from collecting on the asphalt path, make a small drain in advance: build the path at an inclination of 1-2 degrees and surround it with drainage that directs the flow of water into the soil.

Self-installation new asphalt

As we said earlier, it is more advisable to order asphalt from the factory. After the asphalt is delivered to your site, you must immediately proceed to laying it, because the solution hardens quickly.

First of all, we spread the asphalt with a shovel over the entire area of the path, making an even filling. Next, using a motor mop, we level the asphalt along the entire path, adding asphalt into the holes and leveling the bumps. It should be noted that minimum thickness asphalt pavement must be at least 5 cm to ensure strength garden path, therefore it is necessary to comply this requirement.

As mentioned earlier, asphalt hardens quickly, so to create a path it is better to invite several assistants to make the process faster.

As soon as part of the path is planned, we take a hand roller and begin to roll this section, while the rest plan the path further.

Mandatory requirement: before rolling the path, lubricate the roller with diesel fuel so that the asphalt does not stick to it and the path is perfectly level. You can also lubricate shovels with diesel fuel to make it easier to throw asphalt onto the path.

When working with the roller, you must move slowly, only doing rectilinear movements(reversible ones are prohibited). During rolling, seams will form at the joints between the lines; in order to remove them, it is necessary to roll across the seams.

Never leave the roller on the path after work.

For high-quality rolling, the roller must protrude beyond the border of the track by at least 10 cm.

If the weight of the roller is not enough to roll the track well, then you can ask one of the assistants to stand on the frame of the roller, then the weight will increase.

Laying asphalt on an old surface on a personal plot

If you decide to lay asphalt not on soil, but on old asphalt pavement or concrete screeds, then the process of preparing the area will change. Instead of a cushion of crushed stone and sand, you just need to repair the old coating. To do this, you need to rid the surface of dirt and various debris; if there are small cracks, they need to be widened manually so that in the future they are tightly clogged with asphalt.

After this, it is necessary to pour molten bitumen along the entire perimeter of the future garden path and, using a motor mop, spread the bitumen into strips of 50 cm (no less). Along the entire length of the path, it is necessary to make transverse bitumen strips in increments of half a meter, and then we create an asphalt path with our own hands using the technology indicated above.

How to repair an asphalt path yourself?

Even if you have laid the asphalt with high quality with your own hands, the path will still sooner or later begin to collapse. The most often destructive factors are:

· Asphalt began to melt in hot weather

· Water got into the cracks in winter and when it thawed, it destroyed the coating

· Heavy equipment for which this path is not designed has driven onto the asphalt path

To repair asphalt pavement with your own hands, it is recommended to use cold asphalt, which can be laid even at low temperatures(minus).

How to cover broken asphalt?

If the asphalt path has completely collapsed and is not suitable for repair, then this situation must be corrected. There are two ways to fix a broken asphalt driveway:

1. Remove the asphalt and re-pave it

2. Lay on top of asphalt paving slabs or pour a concrete screed

As for the first method, everything construction companies Those involved in road repairs must remove the broken asphalt, re-create a cushion of crushed stone and sand, and roll out a new asphalt surface. For an inconspicuous garden path this process will be difficult and not economically profitable.

It would be more expedient to pour a layer of sand (at least 5 cm) on top of the asphalt, fill it with water and begin paving the paving slabs.

In order to save money, today they often resort to restoring asphalt that has already been used. Let's take a closer look at how to use old asphalt and what you need for this.

Recycling of asphalt is possible only after regeneration, which is carried out at the plant. But this process is simple and allows you to carry out all the work yourself.

That, in fact, is all you need to know about how to use old asphalt at home.

The solution to this problem was thermal crushing in steam plants. In such units, during crushing, the material is heated to 80°C. But this is abroad, and in domestic production, to regenerate old asphalt, as a standard, they use conventional installations for mixing such compositions. An additional set of installations with equipment for storing, transporting and dosing the asphalt concrete mixture is also used.

Today we will talk about how to make or produce high-quality asphalt at home with your own hands.

We will also consider the methods, proportions and technologies for self-production of asphalt from bitumen, sand, crushed stone and old asphalt. Let's learn how to properly lay homemade asphalt on a personal plot

Types of asphalt

Production of asphalt in a factory

To begin with, the sand is sifted, and the crushed stone is separated into different size fractions (from 5 to 20 mm) using a screen. Next, in accordance with the recipe, they enter a special drum for drying. A high temperature is maintained inside the drum in order to completely remove water from the mixture during the manufacturing process, since it impairs the strength of the future asphalt concrete. In addition to the fact that sand and crushed stone (possibly adding screenings) are dried in the bunker at a temperature of about one hundred and sixty degrees, they are mixed together. Simultaneously with the drying of solid materials, the bitumen in the tanks is heated to the same one hundred and sixty degrees. During the heating process, it is very important to maintain the desired temperature; the binder material must not be too liquid or too hard.

Mixing is necessary for better enveloping, adhesion of bitumen with grains of crushed stone and sand; mineral additives also improve the quality of asphalt concrete (filling unnecessary voids into which water can get and destroy the road). In some plants, the asphalt mixture is passed through a series of sieves during mixing, so that the asphalt is divided into the required number of portions with an even distribution of asphalt concrete components.

After thorough mixing, the hot asphalt enters a storage bin (where the temperature is also maintained at a high temperature).

Recipe for making asphalt at home:

Take old compacted asphalt and crumble it into pieces measuring 5x5x5cm. Add bitumen crushed into the same 5x5x5cm pieces. Proportions 3:1.

Place a barrel or deep trough on a fire, pour bitumen into it first, then asphalt, and cook so that the fire produces more fire rather than coal. You can also add used oil or old roofing felt.

When you pour asphalt, level it with a wooden board and immediately throw fine crushed stone on top before everything has time to thicken. If there is some asphalt left in the bucket, you can put it on the fire next to the barrel and melt it next time.
And after cooking, be sure to clean the bottom of the barrel from slag that burns to the walls and bottom.

Another way to make your own asphalt with your own hands:

For 12 buckets of old compacted asphalt, crushed into pieces ranging in size from 5x5x5cm to 10x10x5cm, add 3 buckets of bitumen, crushed into pieces no larger than 5x5x5cm.

Old asphalt is boiled down by more than half. A 200-liter barrel should be filled no more than halfway (15 six-liter buckets - 12 asphalt and 3 bitumen), otherwise it will be difficult to mix and turn a full barrel. This barrel is brewed for 4 to 6 hours.
When pouring, the asphalt is leveled with a wooden stick or board, and fine crushed stone is immediately thrown onto the poured area while the asphalt is still liquid. The asphalt, which thickened in the bucket and remained in it, is left for the next cooking, to be placed in the same bucket next to the barrel on the fire and melted.
Cast asphalt melts much easier than compressed asphalt. The barrel and bucket must be cleaned every time after cooking by beating off the slag that burns to the walls and bottom, otherwise the cooking time next time will increase quite significantly. Speaking about asphalt, I would immediately like to say that this building material has more disadvantages than advantages in relation to a summer cottage. Asphalt pavement has only a few main advantages - low cost, high strength, simple creation technology and versatility. Often asphalt is chosen only because it has the lowest price compared to materials for paving garden paths such as paving slabs, paving stones, decking, natural stone, etc.

The disadvantages of asphalt are very significant factors that affect not only the landscape design of the garden plot. Among the most significant disadvantages are:

1. In hot weather, asphalt evaporates and exposes the human body to harmful substances. In addition, the unpleasant smell itself will not allow you to have a rich rest in the garden, which is what we need.

3. If laid poorly, asphalt quickly collapses in winter: water gets into the cracks, freezes, and when it freezes, it destroys the coating.

4. During the heat, the asphalt melts.

In order to lay asphalt at your dacha with your own hands, you need to carefully prepare the area, know the technology of laying asphalt, and have at least a homemade manual asphalt roller.

You should immediately draw your attention to the fact that it is very difficult to make asphalt yourself, because... it is necessary to heat the bitumen, mix it with crushed stone and additives and know the correct proportions. Since asphalt is not expensive, it is best to order a ready-made mixture from a road repair company. In this case, you will not lose a lot of money, but the asphalt will be delivered to you directly to the installation site hot, all that remains is to quickly level it, compact it and roll it.

Preparing the area for asphalting with your own hands

First of all, we mark the boundaries of the future asphalt path. At this point, it is necessary to remove a layer of soil (at least 30 cm, it all depends on the purpose of the path) and make sure that no tree roots pass near the future path, otherwise they will soon begin to destroy the asphalt. If there are roots, cut them out with an axe. After this, we install curbs along the entire perimeter of the path, which will be the boundaries.

The role of the curb is not only to prevent the spread of asphalt, but also a decorative function. To install curbs, we dig a small, level trench and plant them in cement mortar in this trench. To create an even border, we stretch the rope from the beginning to the end of the sides of the path and guide ourselves along this rope. Bricks can be used as a border, laid not only on the side edges, but also at an angle.

Next, we begin to create a cushion under the asphalt. We thoroughly compact the bottom of the trench for the path, fill it with the first layer of crushed stone (10-15 cm thick, coarse fraction) and compact it again. On this layer we pour another layer of crushed stone, but only of a finer fraction, the layer thickness is no more than 10 cm. Well, the last layer is sand, about 5-10 cm. As soon as the pillow is created, fill it with water and, using the roller, carefully Let's roll away.

Laying new asphalt yourself

First of all, we spread the asphalt with a shovel over the entire area of the path, making an even filling. Next, using a motor mop, we level the asphalt along the entire path, adding asphalt into the holes and leveling the bumps. Please note that the minimum thickness of the asphalt pavement must be at least 5 cm to ensure the strength of the garden path, so this requirement must be observed.

As mentioned earlier, asphalt hardens quickly, so to create a path it is better to invite several assistants to make the process faster.

As soon as part of the path is planned, we take a hand roller and begin to roll this section, while the rest plan the path further.

When working with the roller, you must move slowly, making only straight-line movements (reverse movements are prohibited). During rolling, seams will form at the joints between the lines; in order to remove them, it is necessary to roll across the seams.

Never leave the roller on the path after work.

For high-quality rolling, the roller must protrude beyond the border of the track by at least 10 cm.

If the weight of the roller is not enough to roll the track well, then you can ask one of the assistants to stand on the frame of the roller, then the weight will increase.

Laying asphalt on an old surface on a personal plot

How to repair an asphalt path yourself?

Even if you have laid the asphalt with high quality with your own hands, the path will still sooner or later begin to collapse. The most often destructive factors are:

· Asphalt began to melt in hot weather

· Water got into the cracks in winter and when it thawed, it destroyed the coating

· Heavy equipment for which this path is not designed has driven onto the asphalt path

To repair asphalt pavement with your own hands, it is recommended to use cold asphalt, which can be laid even at low temperatures (minus).

How to cover broken asphalt?

If the asphalt path has completely collapsed and is not suitable for repair, then this situation must be corrected. There are two ways to fix a broken asphalt driveway:

1. Remove the asphalt and re-pave it

2. Lay paving slabs on top of the asphalt or pour a concrete screed

As for the first method, all construction companies involved in road repairs must remove the broken asphalt, re-create a cushion of crushed stone and sand, and roll out a new asphalt surface. For an inconspicuous garden path, this process will be difficult and not economically profitable.

It would be more expedient to pour a layer of sand (at least 5 cm) on top of the asphalt, fill it with water and begin paving the paving slabs.

In order to save money, today they often resort to restoring asphalt that has already been used. Let's take a closer look at how to use old asphalt and what you need for this.

Recycling of asphalt is possible only after regeneration, which is carried out at the plant. But this process is simple and allows you to carry out all the work yourself.

That, in fact, is all you need to know about how to use old asphalt at home.

Asphalt is often used to improve the surrounding area. To make asphalt mass, use the advice and instructions from experts given in this article. They will help you perform all operations efficiently and get a reliable construction material for laying the road surface.

Components of asphalt mass and tools for their preparation

Depending on the technology that will be used to produce the asphalt mixture, you will need the following set of raw materials and tools:

natural mountain asphalt;
sand;
bitumen;
crushed stone;
water;
Bulgarian;
drill;
metallic profile;
mixing container.

Making asphalt using the hot method

Establish the production of hot asphalt for the needs of private household Careful preparation and study of process technology will help. The composition of the asphalt mass includes bitumen resin, fine crushed stone, sand and artificial polymers. For their mixing and subsequent heat treatment, a fireproof container is used. Fuel is prepared to maintain the required temperature for 8 hours of combustion. 100 liters of water will be needed to cool the mixture.

Method of making hot asphalt:

Select a working capacity.
Mix dry sand and fine crushed stone.
We heat the bitumen resin and polymers to a fluid mass.
We add plasticizers to a heated container with sand and crushed stone.
Stir until a homogeneous suspension is formed.
We use asphalting for its intended purpose.

Advantages of cold asphalt

Cold asphalt is a modern building material that is used for quick repair and road development. The high functionality of the suspension is determined by SG bitumen. The plasticizer of this brand is characterized by high viscosity and retains plasticity at low temperatures.

The production of cold asphalt is a complex high-tech process, which is impossible to recreate in the conditions of a private farm. But, thanks to the wide distribution of the material on the construction market, summer residents can purchase it ready-made. A mass of cold asphalt is laid on the site and compacted using available tools.

Asphalt from an old road surface

Pieces of destroyed road surfaces can be used as raw materials for the production of asphalt mass. Thanks to this technique, you can easily improve the area without the need for large investments.

Road reuse technology:

Grind the pieces of canvas to a fraction of 0.4 cm in size.
Add sand and water and bring the mixture to a temperature of 100 °C.
For 100 kg of processed mass, prepare 10 kg of bitumen and resin, bring to a boil.
Mix all the remaining ingredients.

Asphalt made from previously used components is a cheap building material for the arrangement and repair of pedestrian and highways. With careful preparation of raw materials and correct installation, the wear resistance of such a coating is no different from cold or hot asphalt.

Instructions

Determine the proportions of the mixture components (inert materials - 90%, mineral powder - 5%, bitumen - 6%); select materials for the mixture and process them (for example, dry inert materials, heat bitumen).

Feed wet and cold sand and crushed stone into the feed unit hopper using grab cranes, loaders or conveyors.

Load sand and crushed stone into the conveyor, which is an inclined bucket elevator. Once the conveyor bucket is full, transport the materials to the drying unit.

Equip it with special fireboxes where fuel will be burned in a liquid or gaseous state. Store liquid fuel in heated tanks before entering the drying unit. Thus, it will enter the firebox already heated.

Provide special pumps continuous burning. The unit must be equipped with fans that direct air into the firebox. During the drying and combustion of fuel, the gases generated high temperature and dust particles are pulled out by the filter dust collection system. As a result, in the drum of the unit, sand and crushed stone undergo thorough drying, heating to the required temperature of approximately 200? C.

Add mineral powder and bitumen to the mixing unit at a temperature of 160 degrees. As a result of all stages of production, asphalt is obtained.

note

From the hopper of the power unit there must be a constant supply of sand and crushed stone, also wet and cold, to the collection conveyor. The settled dust can be used in the process of making mixtures or disposed of as sludge. Hot gases, no longer containing solid particles, are released through chimneys.

Sources:

Asphalt (asphalt concrete) technology - production, production.
DIY asphalt

To lay asphalt in your yard, you will need tools, curb tiles, cement mortar, crushed stone of various fractions, sand, and asphalt itself. Additionally, you will need materials for arrangement drainage system or storm drains, tape measure and level, twine and pegs for marking paths, diesel fuel for lubricating tools when laying asphalt. Also important clear weather with positive temperature.

Preparation for laying asphalt

At the first stage, the planning of the paths and the area for the site, which will be asphalted, is done. Asphalt paths Do not lay it near trees (less than one meter), otherwise the roots will damage the coating. It is better not to lay asphalt on areas where there will be sun all day and no shade. It is convenient to mark using pegs and strings.

Next, the “earthen trough” is prepared. This is a depression throughout the entire area marked for asphalting. Its depth is 20-30 cm. The depth directly depends on the expected loads on the asphalt. The turf is removed and the roots are carefully selected from the soil. Recesses for curbs are being prepared. They can be stacked to future heights asphalt pavement or a little higher for greater decorativeness. Curbs will retain the shape of paths and platforms and protect against the formation of cracks. The curbs are attached to cement mortar, then they will stand firmly.

For work you will need bayonet shovels and rakes. Twine, tape measure, set of pegs and hammer. Manual roller weighing 100 kg or more. Tamper or vibrating plate. Mop for leveling asphalt before laying, level.

Calculate how much crushed stone and asphalt you will need. For pedestrian paths and occasional loads in the form passenger car It is enough to lay a crushed stone base of 10-15 cm with a fraction of 20-40 mm and a layer of sand. For a site for freight transport, it is better to plan a drainage layer with a fraction of 40-70 mm, a layer of crushed stone with a fraction of 20-40 mm and a third layer of crushed stone with a fraction of 5-20 mm. When laying the base, compact each layer with a roller and water it with water for better adhesion of the crushed stone. You need to go through the skating rink at least five times.

Laying asphalt

The quantity and cost of asphalt are calculated based on the prepared area. Just write and apply simple formula: multiply the asphalt paving area by the asphalt layer (recommended 5 cm) and multiply by the cost plus delivery charges.

During the construction of the base under the asphalt, a slope is set to the place where rainwater is collected. The standard slope is 5-10 mm per meter of surface. The slope is determined by the level.

For asphalt paving of the local area and the entrance to the garage, order fine-grained asphalt or sand. Installation must be done very quickly, so it is better to work as a team of several people. Unload in several places, scatter with shovels, level with mops and immediately compact with a roller and tamper in hard to reach places. It is risky to assume that the asphalt will cool slowly.

Treat shovels, tampers and rollers with diesel fuel to prevent asphalt from sticking to their surfaces. Monitor the thickness of the asphalt layer and check the slope. Under no circumstances should the roller be stopped while it is freshly laid. Move the roller first along the platform, then across it to level and smooth it transverse seams from the skating rink. Compact areas inaccessible to the roller with a tamper.

Asphalt - integral element modern cities, and even rural areas. As a rule, high-quality asphalt lasts up to 10 years, subject to optimal operating conditions.

Preliminary work

The first stage is marking the territory: specialists determine where they will put the water, where they will put the curbs, and where they will collect and drain rainwater. They also have asphalt concrete pavement, the thickness of the crushed stone base. A thickness of 10-15 cm is sufficient in areas where pedestrians mainly move and passenger vehicles rarely pass through. If a territory, a gas station, a section of a road is being developed, i.e. Regular construction is expected, including the need for a crushed stone base of 25-35 cm and two or three layers of asphalt.

Crushed stone is selected of a suitable fraction. The fraction is the size of an individual stone/grain, which is the maximum allowable in each specific case. If the desired thickness of the crushed stone base is 10-15 cm, then crushed stone of a fraction of 20-40 cm is used. If the base needs to be wider and more reliable, it is laid in two or three layers. When laying the bottom layer of the base, the crushed stone should have a fraction of 40-70 cm, this layer in a lifting situation groundwater responsible for water. The second layer ensures uniform distribution of the load on the base; crushed stone of 20-40 cm is taken for it. Crushed stone of a fraction of 5-20 cm is used for the third layer. Each layer is compacted with a roller in 5-6 passes. The slope on the territory (5-10 mm per 1 meter) is set in the direction where the rainwater collection installation is planned.

Installation of curbs, rainwater drainage, installation of hatches, construction and repair of drainage and sewer wells carried out before laying asphalt.

Asphalting

It is recommended to lay asphalt in the absence of rain and at an air temperature of at least 10°C, so that the mixture does not cool down. If for some reason the installation is carried out in winter, an “iron” must first be passed through the area - a special machine that will dry and warm up the base.

Dump trucks deliver ready-made asphalt concrete mixture to the site. Asphalt pavers distribute it over the territory, and rollers, rammers and vibrating plates compact it.

The asphalt must be laid so that it is at the same level with the surrounding surface. Its thickness depends on the planned operating conditions. For example, on local areas For residential high-rise buildings, an asphalt layer of approximately 4-5 cm is appropriate. If intensive use of the territory, truck traffic, etc. are planned, asphalt should be laid in two layers - from coarse-grained and fine-grained asphalt concrete, each layer is 4-5 cm. To achieve the best strength of the coating, a third layer can be laid.

To ensure adhesion of the lower asphalt layer to the upper, old and new layer, it is used binder material- bitumen. It is poured over the laid layer of asphalt before laying a new one.

The surface is leveled using special machines - road rollers and vibrating plates. Rollers weighing 6-10 tons or more are used to compact the base and asphalt concrete pavement, which is designed for heavy loads. Rollers weighing 2-4 tons are used to compact asphalt designed for moderate loads. Vibrating plates and vibrating rammers are used in hard-to-reach places. To ensure better compaction, the base is moistened using watering machines.

How to soften old asphalt at home. How and from what you can make real asphalt yourself

Components of asphalt mass and tools for their preparation

Making asphalt using the hot method

Advantages of cold asphalt

Asphalt from an old road surface

Preparation for laying asphalt

Laying asphalt

Preliminary work

Asphalting

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