How to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse: modern materials and work technology. How to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with a cold roof? Insulating the ceiling of a bathhouse, expert advice

Each bathhouse requires the organization of high-quality ceiling insulation. This is necessary to prevent the loss of warm air, which will inevitably tend to the top. If the ceiling does not hold it back, then the process of heating the bath and maintaining a constant elevated temperature inside will require increased heat consumption and time.

Another possible problem is condensation in uninsulated rooms. Cold drops flowing here and there will significantly reduce the degree of comfort. And the moisture, which will rise upward along with heat flows, will gradually destroy the ceiling and structural elements of the roof. To prevent condensation, when making a bathhouse, you need to put a heat-insulating “pie” on the ceiling, which will protect wooden structures in the attic of a bathhouse with a cold roof.

Criteria for choosing insulation

Expert advice on the requirements for heat insulators for a Russian bath:

Expert opinion

Konstantin Alexandrovich

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If the material you have selected for thermal insulation meets all the criteria listed above, then it will be safe, warm and comfortable to be inside the waiting room and the steam room itself.

Bathroom ceiling insulation with mineral wool

Mineral wool is more often found on sale packaged in rolls, their thickness ranges from 5 to 10 centimeters. It is not difficult to work with such material; you just need to unwind the roll, measure the fragment required in length and, cutting it with an ordinary knife, lay the insulation where it is necessary. Thicker material, over 10 centimeters thick, is sold in the form of slabs or mats, which are laid spaced between the structural elements of the sheathing, rafters or joists from the attic side. Often this method of fastening does not require additional fastening. Experienced builders advise choosing basalt wool for thermal insulation of steam rooms.

In other cases, elements of insulation material will need to be secured. Fixation methods may vary in each specific case and depend on the density of the material and the spaces between the structural elements of the attic or roof.

In addition to fastening by surprise, there are other fastening methods:

ATTENTION! When starting to work with mineral wool, you must prepare means to protect your eyes, breathing and hands - goggles, a respirator and gloves. Ideally, you should use a protective suit to protect your body.

The procedure for thermal insulation of the ceiling space in a bathhouse

Thermal insulation of bathhouse ceiling with expanded clay

Expanded clay is a very budget-friendly and fairly common insulation material for floors and ceilings. You can easily fill it yourself with a minimum of effort. Essentially, expanded clay is large clay granules that have been baked at high temperatures. Its texture resembles a stone with many pores. Such insulation is not afraid of harmful insects, bacteria and other pests of buildings do not develop in it. It is not biodegradable. The insulation is absolutely harmless to human health, since it does not emit hazardous substances. In addition, it is completely non-flammable. The algorithm for thermal insulation of the ceiling space using expanded clay varies depending on the material of the floors - wooden or concrete. First, familiarize yourself with the sequence of insulating concrete floors.

The procedure for insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse with expanded clay will differ slightly depending on whether the ceiling is concrete or whether they were used for its arrangement. wooden elements. First, you are invited to familiarize yourself with the procedure for insulating concrete floors. Provides detailed information about each technological stage isolation.

Thermal insulation of concrete and expanded clay floors

Insulating concrete floors with expanded clay does not create any special problems.

ATTENTION! Despite the fact that expanded clay has a porous structure and belongs to lightweight materials, its thirty-centimeter layer will have quite a considerable weight. Insulation of wooden floors using this material is only possible if the ceiling is strong enough. In the case of internal ceiling lining with OSB slabs, it will be necessary to provide the slabs with additional fastening. It is produced by installing sheathing, which is attached to the beams using special pins.

Do-it-yourself thermal insulation of a wooden bathhouse using expanded clay

The installation of the insulating “pie” can now be considered complete. The further procedure will be carried out according to the wishes of the owner of the premises. Most often, finishing flooring is laid either on the beams themselves, or on top of logs specially laid for this purpose. This is advisable if a residential attic is being built.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling using ecowool

Ecological wool is considered a completely safe material of natural origin. It has a long service life and copes quite effectively with the function of maintaining heat in the room. The material is free-flowing, therefore, for its transportation and storage, it must be pressed and packaged in consumer packaging - briquettes. For direct use, ecowool is freed from packaging and fluffed, after which it increases in volume several times. Professionals prefer to use equipment specially designed for this purpose when applying ecowool. First, the material is slightly moistened and sprayed onto the insulated surface. After this, the lathing is blown with dry material, which is pumped using a powerful compressor. This fact is the most significant disadvantage of using ecowool, since purchasing or renting equipment is not cheap. At the same time, if you plan to insulate a not too large area, for example, the ceiling space of a small bathhouse, it is quite possible to carry out the work manually. The process will take a lot of time and will increase the degree of insulation consumption, but the thermal insulation will still be of high quality and will not cost too much.

The list of tips for arranging sheathing and layers of insulation from moisture and steam is the same as for mineral wool, so there is no point in repeating them again. But it is worth considering that when industrially applying ecowool, hydro- and vapor barriers are usually not used. When applying manually, you should not refuse them for greater reliability.

REFERENCE. In order to achieve maximum quality indicators when manually insulating with ecowool, it is important to correctly assess the required weight of the building material.

It is calculated using a simple formula:

m (weight of ecowool) = S (area of ​​the cell where the insulation will be placed) * L (thickness of the thermal insulation layer) * P (standard density of the insulation, for horizontal surfaces - 45 kg/m3).

After the sheathing space is filled with insulation, waterproofing and sheathing material are installed on top of it.

Insulation of the bathhouse ceiling with polypropylene foam

Foamed polypropylene, also called penofol, or foamed polyethylene - all these types of insulation materials are similar in structure, and they are installed in a similar way. The thermal insulators under consideration are very easy to install, but their thermal insulation performance is often insufficient. Because of this feature, polypropylene foam and similar materials are best used in combination with other types of insulation, for example, mineral wool.

Such a tandem can provide the most effective heat conservation in the room being finished.

Scheme of insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse with foamed polypropylene

A mixture of cement and sawdust

Such insulation material has long been known and belongs to the traditional ones, which were used even before the era of modern materials for thermal insulation. In such compositions, cement is successfully replaced with clay, and straw can be used instead of sawdust. The mixture is made by mixing dry ingredients with water. The proportion is as follows: for 10 shares of sawdust you need to add 1 share of cement and the same amount of lime. The resulting dry mass is poured with 1.5 parts of water and thoroughly stirred until a thick mixture of uniform texture is obtained. The mass is laid out on the insulated surface and distributed evenly.

ATTENTION! Sawdust for preparing the mixture must be thoroughly dried, ideally for about one year.

This insulating material is characterized by minimal cost and environmental friendliness. But its thermal insulation qualities are inferior to those of mineral wool or expanded clay. The process of preparing and laying the mixture requires significant labor, and upon completion of the laying it will be necessary to seal the cracks that inevitably appear.

Finally

Thermal insulation of the ceiling in a bathhouse in a country house is very important. If you want to save on heating the steam room, you won’t be able to achieve this without thermal insulation. If you have limited funds, you can give preference to budget options for proper insulation, which will allow you to inexpensively make a ceiling and enjoy steaming in a bathhouse and not think about the cold that the ceiling emits.

Video about insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse with sawdust and cement

Insulation of the bathhouse ceiling is an integral rule for arranging a comfortable steam room. The old folk methods that provide optimal microclimate in a room with high temperature conditions.

Along with them, new materials and technologies demonstrate excellent insulation performance. To properly carry out insulation work with your own hands, you need to consider all the available options and choose the most acceptable one for yourself.

Popular methods of insulation

Based on the experience of professionals, mineral wool, clay, expanded clay and earth can be distinguished from all materials. A bathhouse, steam room and washing room can be insulated in several ways and various materials suitable for such a procedure can be used in the work.

Traditional methods are known for their inexpensive components, environmental friendliness and fire safety, but their implementation will require more time and effort. Modern methods, on the contrary, are simpler in terms of installation, but the materials will entail certain costs.

What should not be used?

If you decide to opt for modern materials, it is worth remembering that foam plastic should never be used in such work. This affordable and popular thermal insulation, when heated, emits chemicals that poison the air in the room, and in places where it touches a hot pipe it can even melt.

Multilayer construction

Properly executed insulation technology consists of several layers and is a so-called insulation pie, where the materials are arranged in the following order:

• waterproofing (membrane film);
• basalt insulation;
• protective foil.

The thickness of the thermal insulation layer averages from 20 centimeters and depends on the type of roof (presence of an attic), the functional purpose of the room and the climate in the region in which the building is erected.

As a rule, in a steam room these parameters are increased and two layers of membrane film are laid in front of the insulation sheets, which will increase the concentration of steam inside the bath.

Mineral wool

Insulating a bathhouse ceiling with mineral wool is equally suitable for rooms with and without an attic. The main thing is to provide the ceiling with floor beams on which the insulation cake will be fixed.

This method is quite simple to implement and will not entail large financial costs. Before thermal insulation is installed, all wooden elements are processed antiseptics. Further, all work consists of stages.

Installation of vapor barrier

Vapor barrier material is divided into several types: regular foil, aluminum foil and membrane film. For a bath room, insulation with aluminum coating or foil insulation is best suited. Along with protection from moisture, it provides heat reflection into the steam room, which allows you to save on heating by two or three times.

Vapor barrier film sheets are overlapped onto a wooden beam using a construction stapler. Using foil tape, carefully glue all joints. This is the most effective way to properly and efficiently provide a bathhouse with thermal insulation.

Installation of sheathing

On the inside of the room, perpendicular to the wooden beams, a sheathing is nailed, which fixes the insulation and is sheathed on top facing material.

A gap is left at one edge between the vapor barrier layer and the decorative cladding, which will reflect heat, and the insulation layer will lie tightly on the foil insulation.

Installation of insulation

The selected type of insulation is pressed into the resulting space between the ceiling beams of the steam room. There should be no gaps between the sheets of mineral wool; to do this, the material is compressed and placed on seats with little effort.

In order for this process to proceed without difficulty, the beams are fixed from each other at a distance less than 1 - 1.5 cm from the width of the wool.

Laying waterproofing

To reliably protect the insulation from moisture and contaminants entering from the outside, it is covered with polyethylene or thermal film.

As in the case of vapor barrier, the film is fixed to the supporting structure using construction stapler. For natural air circulation, a ventilation gap is provided between the thermal insulation and waterproofing layers.

Installation of decorative cladding

The insulation pie is completed with decorative finishing of the bathhouse ceiling. Cladding panels are nailed to the ceiling beams with finishing nails. A stainless steel screen is usually suspended above the heater (at a distance of 15 cm from the ceiling). This will protect the roof section from overheating and, as a result, deformation.

To protect the thermal insulation structure from mechanical damage, it is recommended to install a subfloor in bathhouses with an attic.

The most popular and high-quality cladding for the ceiling of a steam room is lining made of linden wood, larch or aspen.

These types of wood can withstand high temperatures and create a healthy indoor microclimate.

Folk materials

In bathhouses with an attic, heat loss is reduced by sawdust, sand and clay. At the beginning of the process, the attic floor is covered with an overlapping vapor barrier (roofing felt, isolon). The top is covered with a twenty-centimeter layer of sawdust, onto which soil is poured (a layer of 5 cm).

To increase the thermal insulation effect, sawdust can be mixed with sand or clay mass.

Thermal insulating composition

There is an old, reliable recipe that meets all the requirements for insulating ceilings in bathhouses and can be easily prepared with your own hands. To do this, apply a 2 cm thick composition made from cement, clay, sawdust and water in a ratio of 1:2:3:0.7 to the boards from the attic side.

After complete drying, a monolithic heat-insulating slab is formed, which is also fire-resistant.

Sawdust

It is better to purchase sawdust in carpentry shops - they work with well-dried material, and the shavings and sawdust are dry and lightweight.

In ancient times, sawdust was sprinkled with ash on top, but now a membrane film serves as an alternative. If you plan to use the attic space, then a plank flooring with a ventilation gap is installed.

Expanded clay

If there is no sawdust, do not despair, since you can insulate the bathhouse ceiling using common expanded clay. It has high thermal insulation properties, but absorbs moisture, which is why a vapor barrier device will be required on the side of the steam room.

Expanded clay is poured onto it (a layer of 30 cm) and the layers are completed with waterproofing material. Flooring can be installed if desired.

X-teplo.ru

How to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse so that the steam warms the body and not the roof

The question of how to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse is of interest to those who like to take a steam bath, but we will find out how to maintain steam and temperature in a steam room so that the heat does not escape through the walls and ceiling. In the meantime, let's talk about the physics of heat.

A little about the physics of heat

There is such a thing as heat transfer. A cup of hot coffee cools down in contact with the environment; Although air is a poor conductor of heat, the temperature of the coffee decreases until equilibrium is reached - the law of thermodynamics.

Coffee will not cool below room temperature. How to do this quickly? Speed ​​up heat exchange! Pour coffee into a metal mug. Metal has a higher thermal conductivity than porcelain. And during the transfusion process itself, the liquid comes into direct contact with the air and transfers heat energy to it.

Convection is the transfer of heat due to the movement of liquid or gas. When bathing in a sauna, you pour water onto hot stones, the water evaporates and conveys a hot feeling to those in the sauna.

What happens to the temperature in the steam room? There will be no significant drop in temperature; a ladle of water will not be able to take away the heat from the stones. But saturated water vapor has a density higher than dry vapor, which will occupy the upper position (that’s why it’s hot on the top shelf); the air will take longer to cool down, the less heat transfer from the walls and ceiling of the steam room.

Radiant heat, emitted as infrared radiation directly from the stove, differs from the other two methods because no medium is needed to transfer heat between two separate objects.

The ideal protection against these forms of heat transfer is a thermos. Essentially, it is a bottle within a bottle, between which the space is divided by a vacuum and a silver screen, a mirror, that reflects radiant waves.

The most vulnerable point of heat loss in this device is the plug. In the case of a bathhouse, this is the ceiling and walls. Their heat transfer depends on the material from which they are made and their ability to retain heat in the bath.

You need to create a barrier against heat loss using thermal insulation, like in a thermos. To protect the material from moisture, there are vapor barrier films. There are two known ways to insulate the ceiling: from inside the bathhouse and from the outside. The choice of material depends on which side of the ceiling or wall the bathhouse is insulated on.

The best way thermal insulation of the bathhouse ceiling is external insulation from the attic. Here are the advantages:

• There is no loss of space in the bathhouse, dressing room, rest room, shower room, and others;
• Larger selection of insulating materials;
• The requirements for environmental safety and moisture resistance are not as strict as inside the bathhouse;
• Installation is simplified, it is convenient to lay vapor barrier film and insulation.

How to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse from the outside?

There are countless options. If the attic floor is made of OSP slabs, then a vapor barrier film is laid on them, and the ceiling of the bathhouse is insulated on top with basalt wool. They are laid in two layers to cover the joints, then covered with a vapor barrier film on top, scraps of lumber are placed on it and that’s it, if the attic is not used.

The old method is even simpler: insulating the ceiling with sawdust and clay. Our ancestors added clay to prevent mice from settling in sawdust.

Insulation of a bathhouse ceiling with expanded clay is done as follows: a reinforced polyethylene film is placed on the substrate, then expanded clay is poured on top. In general, they always tried to make do with local materials for insulation; slag was also poured into attics, pre-screened through a large mesh and an excellent insulating material was obtained. But now more often they make floors and use the attic space for household needs, a kind of attic where you can work and relax.

Special Requirement to the arrangement and insulation of the roof. The floors are arranged like this: a vapor barrier film is laid on the subfloor, logs from edged boards 20 x 100 or 40 x 100 mm are attached, and insulation is placed between the logs. Instead of basalt wool, it is better to insulate it with Eco mineral wool, then cover it with chipboard, plywood, OSP and make the floor.

The construction market is replete with thermal insulation materials. Choose insulation for the ceiling in a bathhouse, which one is better suited to the interior, and which one to external installation not easy. When choosing, be guided not only by the brand, but also by the technical characteristics of the material. Not the least important role is played by the flammability class of the material, its characteristics of thermal conductivity, density, environmental friendliness, ease of installation and transportation.

The inside of the bathhouse is insulated if it is made of heat-conducting material: brick, concrete slabs, thin boards. Insulation of the ceiling in a bathhouse with mineral wool can be done with your own hands by anyone who knows how to use a building level and has the skills to do the work. A vapor barrier is attached to the wall and ceiling, and a sheathing is made from timber. First, the timber is screwed vertically to the wall with self-tapping screws. Make stands with a distance of 60 cm around the entire perimeter. Then the same design is made on the ceiling.

Advice. Before laying the mineral wool between the bars, make holes in the ceiling: 1- for ventilation (in the far corner from the door), 2- for the chimney insulation duct.

Below we will look at how to do this. The transverse dimensions of the beams depend on the type of heat-insulating material placed between them. Mineral wool is sold in rolls. Before installation, you need to cut the roll in half, you will get a strip of 60 cm. Wait for the strip to take its shape. When unfolded, it will swell with air, which will fill the pores. Attach between the slats as shown in the image. Choose environmentally friendly materials.

Then additional insulation of the bathhouse ceiling with foil having a dense paper base, which plays the role of a heat insulator; the mirror part reflects radiant energy, trapping heat. Begin to attach the rolled foil from the floor to the ceiling with staples to the bars with an overlap of 5-10 cm, the seam is glued with adhesive foil tape.

Advice. Choose the right quality material. Require a safety compliance certificate. Not all materials are suitable for insulating a bathhouse from the inside. Ensure compliance with the rules for installing chimneys. 90% of fires in stove baths occur due to improper cutting of the chimney pipe through the ceiling, attic floor and roof.

Insulation of a budget option is considered. There are other materials that are more expensive, but effective in their thermal insulation qualities, since they have 3 protection barriers: waterproofing, vapor barrier, thermal insulation.

How to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with your own hands: a step-by-step guide

Installation of thermal insulation with SPU Sauna-Satu panels does not require preparation. Now that you know how to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with mineral wool, make exactly the same sheathing for the panels if the walls are crooked.

Panel sizes: 1, 2 x 0.6 x 0.03 m and 2.4 x 0.6 x 0.03 m have the same width as the standard one roll insulation. It is recommended to soak wooden surfaces in the bathhouse with an antiseptic solution before installing the panels.

SPU Sauna-Satu panels have a tongue and groove connection. In Scandinavian countries, these plates are used to insulate saunas, including using steam. Special sealing foam seals the joints; the panels can be installed both horizontally and vertically. Installation instructions:

1. Prepare: knife, fasteners, sealing foam and aluminum tape.

2. Before installing the first panel, cut the tenon along the entire length of the panel.

3. The first panel is placed on the floor with the cut side and applied to the wall. Before installation, a sealant is applied to the joint.

4. The panel is pressed tightly against the seal, holes are drilled and the umbrellas are driven in at the fastening points. Fasteners, tape, seal - everything is included in the kit. Ask the sellers.

5. The panels fit easily into the groove. Each joint is coated with a sealant. Apply to panel edges before installation.

6. Then the panels are attached to the ceiling beams, the corners are sealed, the excess foam is carefully cut off, and all joints are additionally taped.

7. Below, if you plan to screed the floor, remove the top layer of the panel 10-15 cm from the floor along the entire perimeter and make waterproofing in the places of the baseboard where the wall meets the floor. Apply several layers of waterproofing paste with a brush, stick on waterproofing tape and apply the paste again. Then they make a sheathing for clapboard covering.

8. Finishing with clapboard.

Insulation of the ceiling involves cutting it under an insulating box through which the pipe will pass. This is what the factory version of the box looks like.

The thermodynamic processes occurring in the bath during heating and procedures must remain inside the system (steam room) for as long as possible, and this is possible only with proper thermal insulation of the ceiling, walls, section of the ceiling in the place of the pipe, doors.

Useful video

The benefits of the correct selection of materials and installation of thermal insulation are obvious - quick heating of the bath, fuel savings, and most importantly - the pleasure and health that you will experience during the bath procedures. Be careful. Don’t make a mistake in choosing materials; contact those who perform this work comprehensively: thermal, sound and waterproofing, installation of ventilation systems, and other work.

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vseopotolkah.ru

How to properly insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse

It seems that there are few who would disagree with the statement that the premises of a bathhouse, and especially a Russian steam room, should be warm, that is, have the least temperature contact with the outside environment. Only under such conditions will this building correspond to its functional purpose, which provides for a special microclimate with high humidity and the same temperature during the period of intended use. Therefore, when arranging a dressing room, and especially a steam room, it is necessary to carry out a number of thermal insulation measures, which will, firstly, help quickly bring the microclimate to the desired condition, and secondly, will allow you to economically maintain the temperature within the desired limits.

In this case, the first place should be the insulation of the bathhouse ceiling, which is a barrier between the hot air rushing upward and the cold attic. After all, the higher the air temperature in the room, the greater the percentage of heat loss that occurs through the ceilings. In a hot steam room, this figure can reach 70%. Many people know this fact, which is why the question arises about how to properly insulate the ceiling of a bathhouse in order to minimize heat loss. The availability of thermal insulation technology is also important, since the steam room in most cases is an author’s project, that is, done from start to finish with your own hands.

Read also: Insulation scheme brick bath from the inside.

Let's further look at the ways in which you can insulate the ceilings in a steam room, both from the attic and from the inside, using industrially produced materials, as well as those made by yourself.

Bathroom ceiling insulation, materials

The first and main requirement for thermal insulation products used in this case is that they are harmless to humans and, preferably, natural origin. This is explained by the fact that the steam room is a closed space where, during its intended use, ventilation is not provided as such. Can you imagine how you can “get healthier” if “unhealthy” substances are present here, even in small concentrations? Therefore, the use of polymers, even those presented by manufacturers as “eco-friendly” and “hygienic,” is out of the question here.

The fact is that the safety of materials, including insulation, is guaranteed at temperatures close to room temperature. It is unknown how the polymer product will behave at temperatures up to +80 and when the air is oversaturated with moisture. Therefore - no polymers! Moreover, there are plenty of alternative materials.

If we talk about the insulation of ceilings from the attic side, natural traditional heat insulators, such as sawdust and mixtures prepared on their basis, are called for here. Moreover, you don’t even need to spend a lot on such insulation - you can prepare it yourself. Mats made of dry reeds also provide a good thermal insulation effect. By laying 15 cm of such natural insulation for a sauna and bathhouse, you will completely block the path of rising currents of hot air. Natural substances have the unique ability to regulate humidity within certain limits. So in this case you don’t have to worry about additional waterproofing.

As for sawdust, you can prepare your own mixtures with:

In both the first and second cases, you should use sawdust of average fraction. They need to be completely dry. The mixtures can be prepared in a large container with your own hands or use a concrete mixer.

To prepare the first composition you need to adhere to the following proportion:

• lime (paste) - 1 part.

To make a cement-sawdust composition, you should mix:

• Portland cement (M-400) - 1 part.

In both cases, water is added gradually until a composition is obtained that, when squeezed in the palm, does not release water, but at the same time sticks together into a lump. Laying a layer of 20-25 cm on the ceiling panel from the attic side will be sufficient, taking into account the fact that the wood used both for the ceiling and for interior decoration will also contribute to the insulation of the bathhouse ceiling from the inside of the room.

It’s another matter when, for some reason, thermal insulation measures cannot be taken from the outside. Then thermal insulation measures should be carried out from the inside. The materials listed above are unlikely to be used here. Therefore, this procedure will require modern insulation.

Of those that are the safest and at the same time suitable for DIY installation, the most suitable varieties are mineral wool.

This heat insulator is made from natural materials (some types rocks) by melting them and forming thin fibers, which form the basis of mineral wool. Insulation materials based on mineral fibers have the following properties:

• low thermal conductivity;

• excellent sound absorption;

• lack of toxicity (including when heated);

• durability (service life - up to 60 years);

• ability to pass steam.

Another “minus” is the ability to actively absorb moisture. Therefore, before insulating the ceiling of a bathhouse with mineral wool from the inside, you should take care reliable waterproofing insulation.

Do-it-yourself scheme for insulating a bathhouse ceiling from the inside

In order to determine the procedure for carrying out thermal insulation measures, you should find out what type of ceiling is made. It could be:

In the first option, the board is hemmed onto fixed support beams - mounted from below. In this case, the bars are closed from the inside and remain on the side of the attic space.

With the flooring method, the board is installed on top of the bars, that is, a flooring is formed in the attic. The bars remain inside the steam room.

In each of the options, the insulation scheme from the inside of the bathhouse is slightly different, so we will consider each option separately.

Thermal insulation from the inside of a suspended ceiling

As noted above, in this option there is a solid wooden surface on the inside, and the beams are located on the outside. Therefore, it is necessary to create a sheathing in order to have space for laying mineral wool mats. The work flow looks like this:

• A perforated waterproofing film that can allow steam to pass through is fixed to the floor boards.
• A sheathing is created from wooden beams. Calculate the step between them so that it is slightly less than the width of the thermal insulation mats.
• Mineral wool is laid continuously between the beams.

• Taking into account the high humidity in the steam room, it is better to perform internal waterproofing not with film, but with foil material, which will also create an additional thermal barrier. One-sided or double-sided penofol can be used as such a material. It is stapled to the sheathing, and the joints between adjacent panels are closed with aluminum tape.
• A batten is sewn across the beams, thereby creating a counter-lattice, which, firstly, will ensure the presence of ventilation space, and secondly, will create a convenient base for the cladding.

Thermal insulation from inside a deck ceiling

If the ceiling is of a floor type, then the beams are located from the inside. That is, there is no need to create a primary sheathing. Next, everything is done as described in the previous section with the difference that the external waterproofing sheet can be placed on the attic side of the ceiling.

So we figured out how to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with our own hands, using different thermal insulation materials that are suitable in this case. Methods of insulation from the inside and from the attic side were considered separately. But do not forget that these technologies can be combined to achieve an excellent thermal insulation effect.

mynovostroika.ru

How and with what to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with your own hands: photos, videos, materials

Do you want your bathhouse to please you with comfort and functionality for as long as possible? Then take care of its protection - insulate the ceiling so that cold air does not enter the steam room, and warm air, on the contrary, does not flow out of it. Anyone can do this, because thermal insulation materials can be bought at any hardware store, and the technology for laying them is quite simple. How do professionals recommend insulating the ceiling surface and how to correctly perform the procedure yourself? You will find answers to these questions, as well as photos and videos of thermal insulation installation below.

Choosing thermal insulation material

Important! To treat the ceiling of a steam room, you cannot use organic insulation materials - jute, flax fiber, tow. They ignite quickly, so their use in high temperature zones is unsafe.

We carry out preparatory work

No matter what thermal insulation material you choose for your bathhouse, before its actual installation you should carry out preparatory vapor barrier work.

Why do you need a vapor barrier? It will block the entry and deposition of wet vapors on the thermal insulation. Why is it important? Because if moisture accumulates on the insulation, this will immediately lead to several negative consequences: firstly, the weight of the ceiling structure will increase; secondly, the insulating qualities of the insulation will decrease; thirdly, the service life of thermal insulation will be significantly reduced.

If your bathhouse does not have an attic, use heat-reflecting plastic film or aluminum foil as a vapor barrier. The first material must have lint - it is they that will trap condensation. It is more rational and economical to use foil in those rooms where it is important to maintain a high temperature, for example in a steam room and shower, and film in other, less demanding rooms. Use a staple gun to attach the vapor barrier to the ceiling. Even if you overlap the material, carefully cover the joints with self-adhesive tape to ensure the necessary tightness.

Advice. If you use plastic film, be sure to leave a small gap between the ceiling and the material to ensure unimpeded evaporation of condensate.

In steam rooms with an attic, you can use the same materials, but the roof on the inside must first be treated with clay. The minimum application layer is 2 cm.

The first stage of insulation: arrangement of the floor

Now let's proceed to the direct insulation of the bathhouse ceiling. You need to start with arranging the top floor:

• Fix to the crowns of the logs or beams of the steam room roof wooden beams, pre-treated with antiseptics. Especially carefully it is necessary to treat the areas where beams meet roofing materials with excellent technical properties.
• Sew boards to the beams, forming roll-up panels. They should be two strictly perpendicular rows of boards. Use self-tapping screws to secure the panels. Make sure that the lower planes of the boards exactly coincide with the corresponding planes of the beams.

Advice. Before arranging the ramp, draw a diagram of the location of the shields, indicating their numbers and dimensions - this way you will not get confused during the installation process. Keep in mind that there must be a gap of at least 5 cm between the beams and cladding boards, and 20-25 cm between the panels and the chimney.

• After installing the rolls, protect the boards from fungus - treat them with special antiseptic compounds.

The second stage of insulation: laying thermal insulation

As soon as the top floor is ready, you can proceed to the installation of thermal insulation material. Whatever insulation you choose, the operating technology is approximately the same.

Thermal insulation material should be installed in all spaces between beams. Lightly compact it so that the insulation fits tightly to the surface. The thicker the thermal insulation material, the higher the effect of its action - in regular bath 100 mm of insulation will be quite sufficient. Check several times to ensure that there are no gaps left in the ceiling structure.

Ceiling arrangement for a bathhouse with an attic

Separately, it should be said about the mandatory insulation of the chimney. There may be several options:

• “packaging” the chimney in a special pipe made of non-galvanized steel, treated from the inside with a layer of expanded clay;
• insulation of the area around the chimney with expanded clay composition.

The process of insulating a bathhouse with an attic will look a little different. First, the boards are coated with a thick layer of clay. Then all existing cracks in the attic are filled with wooden chips, which are pre-moistened in concrete mortar. And then the thermal insulation material is laid. Better in two or three layers.

After completion of the work, the material must be sheathed with wooden boards. Place them perpendicular to the beams. It is not necessary to use a long board - it can be replaced with a short board, homemade boards with sawdust or fiberboard. Above ceiling surface baths are treated with fire retardant. Everything in the chimney area wooden boards It is advisable to sheathe it with asbestos sheets.

Do not forget that without high-quality ceiling insulation, not a single bathhouse will be able to fully fulfill its tasks and guarantee a healthy microclimate. Therefore, if you want to get a truly comfortable steam room, once again evaluate the above-described thermal insulation materials, choose suitable option and get to work, following the installation rules.

What is the best way to insulate an attic from the inside?

Any bathhouse needs high-quality ceiling insulation, because warm air easily leaves the room if there are no obstacles in front of him. Fortunately, today in stores you can find a variety of insulation materials at different prices - choosing the best option is not difficult.

Today we will take a detailed look at the process of insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse.

Peculiarities

Not only residential buildings, but also baths need good insulation. If you neglect the installation of thermal insulation material, such a structure will not be able to maintain comfortable temperature. Warm air, so necessary in a bathhouse, will simply leave the room. However, the problem of warm air escaping is not the main one. Also, without insulation, harmful condensation will accumulate on the ceiling in the bathhouse. Because of it, unpleasant drops will drip onto people from above, which can be very annoying.

Moisture leaving with heat will negatively affect the ceilings. Under the influence of such external factors structures run the risk of rotting and deforming. Further renovation of the bathhouse will require free time and money.

Today on the market there is a large number of manufacturers producing high-quality thermal insulation materials. Thanks to this, every consumer will be able to choose suitable insulation.

It is quite possible to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with your own hands. To do this, you do not need to be an experienced craftsman or have the appropriate education. The main thing in this matter is to strictly follow the instructions and use only high-quality materials.

To insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse, you need to use materials that have the following important characteristics:

• they must be resistant to fire and not support a flame;
• the insulation must be environmentally friendly and absolutely safe for human health;
• the material must be resistant to dampness and moisture, which are inevitable in a bathhouse.

Fortunately, in modern retail outlets it is quite easy to find materials that meet all of the above requirements. The bathhouse may have a ceiling with or without attic space. In both cases, the building will need reliable insulation. The only difference is that if there is no attic space, you will not have many ways to lay insulating material.

It is also worth considering one more important feature– if your bathhouse is built of wood, it will need literally perfect roof insulation. Making mistakes in this case is disastrous. This can lead to rotting and deformation of the floor structures.

Of course, you can coat the wood with special moisture-proof and anti-fungal impregnations to extend the life of the material and to protect yourself in case of improper installation of the insulation. However, such means are not omnipotent. Even if you put them on ceiling structures, under the constant action of steam they will fail and the bathhouse will have to be repaired.

Experts say that if all installation technologies are followed, heat-insulating materials you can avoid serious mistakes. The main thing is not to neglect any of the necessary stages of work. In this case, the result will not disappoint you.

Material selection criteria

Suitable insulation for a Russian bath must be selected according to the following important criteria:

• Possibility of combination with other building materials. Thermal insulation coating must be combined with other materials without affecting their specific qualities.
• Not susceptible to condensation accumulation. Insulating material should under no circumstances accumulate excess moisture in its structure - this will certainly negatively affect the ceiling structure, especially if it is made of wood.
• Minimal moisture absorption. When choosing insulation, pay attention to the fact that it has a minimum water absorption value
• Certificates of quality and safety. When purchasing insulation for a cold roof in a bathhouse, you must ask the seller for all the necessary quality certificates. The material must meet sanitary, hygienic and fire safety requirements.

If the material you choose for thermal insulation of the bathhouse meets all of the listed criteria, then the inside of the steam room and dressing room will not only be warm and cozy, but also safe.

Materials

Today the market is replete with thermal insulation materials. They are made from different raw materials and have their own distinctive qualities. Let's take a closer look at the most popular and in-demand insulation materials, which are in demand among most homeowners.

Mineral wool

Most often, people choose good old mineral wool as bath insulation. Despite the fact that there are many good alternatives to this material on the market, many users continue to buy it.

This insulation is sold in rolls, slabs and cylinders. For insulation of roofs and ceilings, they are most often chosen roll materials or slabs. They install easily and quickly. Mineral wool in cylinders is usually used to insulate pipeline bases.

Let's get acquainted with the main advantages of mineral wool that make it in demand:

• This material has high thermal insulation properties, which is especially important for a bathhouse. It can be installed in almost any environment. However, it is worth considering that during its installation other insulators will be required.
• Mineral wool is a waterproof material. High-quality glass and basalt wool promote the transmission of steam and do not absorb excess moisture. Thanks to this quality, mineral wool can be safely used to protect structures from dampness.
• Mineral wool has good air exchange. Such insulation will promote air circulation. The base will “breathe” and last much longer.

• This thermal insulation material also boasts good soundproofing qualities. While in a bathhouse insulated with such a coating, you will not be distracted by extraneous sounds coming from the street.
• Mineral wool is not afraid of aggressive chemicals. It is not destroyed by acids and alkalis.
• Mineral wool is a fire-resistant material, which is very important for a bath. Moreover, when in contact with fire, this insulation does not emit acrid smoke.
• This material has a long service life. High-quality mineral wool can last from 25 to 50 years.
• Many consumers choose mineral wool because it is safe from an environmental point of view.

However, this material also has some disadvantages:

• The quality of mineral wool suffers significantly if it absorbs too much water. Under the influence of such a factor, this material may not act as effectively.
• Another disadvantage of mineral wool is considered to be a fairly high level of dust. This insulation contains very brittle fibers, and their fragments are sharp and thin. If they get on the skin, they cause severe itching and irritation. You can work with such insulation only in special protective clothing and glasses.

There are several types of mineral wool:

• stone (or basalt);
• slag;
• glass wool

Budget glass wool is more affordable. She is special fibrous structure and a yellowish tint. This material is made from cullet, drill, sand, soda, limestone and dolomite.

Glass wool has good thermal properties. In addition, it can easily withstand strong vibrations. When compressed, glass wool reduces its volume by almost 6 times. Glass wool is the softest type of insulation of all subtypes of mineral wool.

Not so long ago, glass wool in slabs appeared on sale, which is often used to insulate facade bases. This material is more durable and reliable. However It is worth considering that glass wool is not only the softest, but also the most prickly insulation. You need to work with it very carefully. For this It is necessary to wear special protective clothing.

Basalt wool is very popular among craftsmen, as it is durable and keeps its shape.

Such insulation can be made from:

• diabase;
• basalt;
• gabbro

Ingredients such as dolomite and limestone are also added to these components.

Stone wool is good because it can withstand severe mechanical stress. In addition, this material does not burn and does not absorb moisture, which are decisive characteristics for a bathhouse.

Basalt wool is often produced with a special backing made of foil or fiberglass. To make the material more durable and reliable, it is additionally stitched with special glass threads. Wire is sometimes used instead.

This material is used a little less frequently than others, as it absorbs moisture. For this reason, it is better not to use slag wool to insulate a bath ceiling - it will quickly fail and require replacement. In addition, this material is not designed to withstand any load.

Ecowool

Now let’s look at the disadvantages of ecowool insulation:

• Over time, the thermal insulation properties of ecowool decrease, especially if it is located in a room with a high moisture content.
• To install ecowool, you need to use special expensive equipment, which, as a rule, only professional teams have.
• It will not be possible to install ecowool on your own, not only because of the equipment requirements, but also because of the complexity and specificity of the work. They should be entrusted to professionals.

• Ecowool leaves a lot of dust during the installation process. If you use a wet installation option, it will dry out over a long time.
• Ecowool cannot boast of a sufficient level of rigidity.

Under no circumstances should this insulation be installed in places close to open combustion sources. Being close to the flame, ecowool gradually begins to smolder.

Penoplex

Its main advantages are:

• high hydrophobicity;
• light weight, which makes it cheap to transport and quite easy to install;
• good strength characteristics;
• composition with anti-corrosion components;
• the ability to install penoplex in almost any conditions;
• does not cause allergies;
• does not attract insects and rodents.

Of course, penplex, like other insulation materials, have their own weak sides, which include:

• susceptibility to combustion;
• fear of contact with solvents (penoplex dissolves when interacting with them);
• high price.

There is foam and air inside the structure of this insulation. Thanks to this feature, this material is not subject to corrosion, destruction over time and is not afraid of interaction with moisture.

Expanded clay

• Expanded clay is a heat-resistant material. It is not afraid of fire and does not melt at high temperatures.
• This insulation is light in weight, so it does not put any stress on the base.
• Not afraid of pests.
• Universal in use.

It is worth considering that working with such material is not very easy. When laying expanded clay to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse, it is very important to provide the base with additional vapor and waterproofing.

Clay

The ceiling in the bathhouse can be insulated with clay. But don’t think that this process will be very simple and accessible. It is not recommended to install this material in its pure form.

It has been combined with:

• sawdust;
• ground straw;
• tree bark;
• sand;
• expanded clay.

Most often, clay is combined with straw, sawdust and sand. It is advisable to use expanded clay only if you are laying the clay mixture in layers.

Sawdust

If you decide to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with sawdust, then you should take into account that such material is the most fire hazardous. In this case, a fire retardant will not help. In addition, sawdust is quite dirty, and if a draft appears, it will gradually scatter throughout the bathhouse.

However, this material is environmentally friendly and absolutely safe for human health. It does not cause allergies or other similar reactions. Most often, sawdust for insulation is combined with clay or cement. Sometimes sawdust is covered with earth on top.

Interior and exterior works

It is permissible to insulate a bathhouse both inside and outside. The second installation option should be used if the building does not have an attic space. In this case, it is best to use insulation in the form of flooring. Hemmed structures make the ceiling more reliable and stronger.

In this case, the boards are attached to the beams from inside the room, as well as from the attic. In this case, multilayer thermal insulation materials must be laid between the floorings. If you have a good two-story bathhouse (attic), then laying multi-layer insulation begins from the bottom floor.

First, a vapor barrier is installed, followed by insulation, waterproofing material and the floor covering of the second floor.

Insulation scheme

To decide on the tactics for carrying out thermal insulation work, it is necessary to find out what type of ceiling base itself is - hemmed or decked. In the case of a hemmed base, a board is hemmed onto the installed support beams (in the lower part). In this case, the bars are closed from the inside and left only in the attic area.

If the covering method is flooring, then the board is fixed on top of the bars. This creates a flooring in the attic. The bars themselves remain in the steam room area.

If thermal insulation is carried out from the inside of a false ceiling, then the scheme of work will be as follows:

• first, a waterproofing film with perforations that can allow steam to pass through must be secured to the floor boards;
• Next, a frame/sheathing is formed from wooden blocks, taking into account the step under the insulation mats;
• The next thing to install is insulation (it needs to be laid between the bars);
• Next comes a waterproofing material, but in the bath it is recommended to use foil rather than film;
• Next, according to the diagram, there is a strip that needs to be sewn on top of the beams.

If we are talking about insulating the floor ceiling inside, then the layout of materials will be as follows:

• first, a vapor barrier is laid on the boards located on the attic side;
• then insulation is laid on it (if it is mineral wool, then the thickness of its layer should be approximately 200-250 mm;
• Next comes a layer of vapor barrier;
• Finally, the floor in the attic is covered with boards.

How to insulate correctly?

When you have studied the insulation scheme and the type of ceiling construction, you can proceed directly to finishing it with mineral wool, penoplex, clay or other materials. So that the result does not disappoint you, and the bathhouse becomes warm and comfortable, when installing the insulation, you need to follow the step-by-step instructions. To begin with, it is worth considering in detail the guide to insulating a floor ceiling.

Finishing of such a base is carried out from the outside.

Stages of work:

• First, you need to lay a vapor barrier material on the flooring. It can be secured with a construction stapler or nails.
• The insulation itself must be placed on top of the vapor barrier film. If you use bulk material, such as expanded clay or sawdust with clay, then you need to nail a side around the perimeter of the base, which will prevent the insulation from spilling out.
• The resulting “pie”, consisting of several layers, must be covered with waterproofing material.
• As a rule, the thermal insulation is pressed against the boards, which were laid in increments of 40-50 cm.

Now you should consider how to insulate a false ceiling:

• First, they nail onto the beams located on the ceiling. vapor barrier material. It is recommended to use canvases in which one of the sides is foil-coated. The vapor barrier must be installed with a slight overlap of 10 cm (a similar overlap must be made on the walls).
• Next, you need to nail a clapboard or edged board to the beams. These materials should be pre-treated with antiseptic agents so that they do not rot.

To make the ceiling stronger and more reliable, it is recommended to use tongue and groove lumber, which has a groove and a tongue.

• Next, on the attic side, you need to put insulation in the space between the beams. Please note that the material must be laid correctly to create a dense layer without cracks or gaps.
• Make sure that the height of the thermal insulation material reaches 3-5 cm to the top of the beams. This will create the necessary space for ventilation.
• Then the insulation is covered waterproofing film. It must be laid with an overlap of 10 cm.
• Finally, the flooring should be made of boards.

If your bathhouse ceiling is panel and consists of separate panels made of boards and bars, then you will have to act differently:

• On 2 beams located in parallel, you need to nail boards with a length of 60 cm. Before this, it is very important to treat the wood with antiseptic compounds.
• The board should protrude 5 cm on all sides. During joining, the resulting gaps will be closed with insulation.
• Next, you need to attach a vapor barrier material to the inside of the panel.
• The resulting structures must be placed on the sheathing fixed at the bottom of the floor beams.
• Insulation that is resistant to moisture must be installed at the joints of the panels.
• At the final stage, you need to lay down a plastic film - it will protect finishing attic floor. You can put clapboard on the sheathing at the bottom of the ceiling.

If you decide to insulate the ceiling in the bathhouse yourself, then you should take into account that you need to be especially careful about the steam room. If there are even the slightest flaws in the ceiling decoration, then the heat will definitely leave the room.

When working with vapor barrier films or foil, you should be as careful as possible. These materials can be accidentally torn, which will negatively affect their quality characteristics.

If you want to lay the material correctly, then it is better to do it a little lower than the walls, so that you have free space for filling up bulk materials or laying the same mineral wool. If this is not possible, small sides need to be placed around the perimeter of the ceiling under the roof.

If you decide to insulate the ceiling with a mixture of clay and sawdust, then you need to take into account that when using a bathhouse in the warm season, the optimal layer thickness can be 50 mm. If you are going to steam in it in winter, then it is better to put a 150 mm layer of insulation.

If the ceiling is built of logs, then on the side of the bathhouse you need to construct a sheathing. In this case, the logs must be covered with a vapor barrier, covered with a 20 cm layer of sand on top and then insulated according to the usual scheme.

If we are talking about skull boards, then they can be fixed to the top of the logs.

If you do not want to spend money on the purchase and installation of vapor and waterproofing of the ceiling, then you should use high-tech insulation, which is made on the basis of mineral wool and has a foil layer. With such a coating, installation of vapor and waterproofing is not necessary.

Do not use material such as polystyrene foam to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse., despite its cheapness. When heated, it releases toxic substances that have a negative impact on human health.

Do not skimp on thermal insulation materials and do not look for too cheap copies, unless, of course, you plan to insulate the ceiling with clay or sawdust. A suspiciously low price may indicate that the quality of the insulation is not the best.

Greetings, dear readers, the topic of today’s article is how to insulate the ceiling of a bathhouse and what is the best way to do it. In the previous article we chose optimal height ceiling, now let's move directly to the construction and insulation of the bathhouse ceiling.

A little theory. We all know very well that warm air is lighter than cold air and rises to the ceiling. And imagine the situation - hot steam rose to the top, but the ceiling was cold. What will happen? That's right, condensation will form. You steam yourself with brooms in the bathhouse, and the rain drips on you :). Let's see how improper ceiling insulation and lack of vapor barrier can harm:

• Constant wetting of ceilings and, as a result, their premature destruction.
• The bath cools down very quickly; it is possible that in the cold season the steam room will not be able to warm up properly.
• Excessive consumption of firewood or electricity.
• There is a real danger of ceilings collapsing.

Correct ceiling insulation

In this article we will tell you how to avoid all these problems and properly insulate the ceiling. The whole process can be roughly divided into three key stages:

1. Insulation of the steam room ceiling.
2. Moisture insulation of the attic.
3. Vapor barrier.

At this time, we, as builders, have a serious advantage over our ancestors - the modern construction market offers a wide range of different thermal insulation materials for every taste and budget. Let's look at the most popular thermal insulation materials.

How to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse - popular materials.

Mineral wool- the most common insulation material among our compatriots. It is highly valued for its good insulating qualities, ease of installation and, most importantly, cost. Mineral wool consists of many basalt threads intertwined in a chaotic manner, among which are billions of tiny voids filled with air. This mixture of air and basalt retains heat well and is excellent for insulating the ceiling of a bathhouse. But at min. Cotton wool has one big disadvantage - it is afraid of moisture. When wet, mineral wool cakes strongly and significantly loses its thermal insulation characteristics. Inexpensive and practical.

Expanded clay - this material often used when insulating ceilings. Expanded clay consists of many small granules, each of which weighs less than a gram. The required layer of expanded clay laying is 20-30 centimeters. Although one granule weighs practically nothing, such a mass of expanded clay on a small area of ​​the ceiling will put a noticeable load on the ceiling, which also needs to be taken into account when designing.

Basic thermal insulation materials

Folk insulation- a mixture of clay, earth, sawdust or straw. The most budget option, but unfortunately not the best. A layer of earth (2-3 centimeters) is placed on the ceiling, and a layer of sawdust or straw is placed on top of the earth.

Polypropylene- modern thermal insulation material, in Lately replaces mineral wool. This is a very light and comfortable material with a foam structure, which is designed specifically for insulating saunas and baths. The material itself holds heat well, and the foil side of polypropylene reflects thermal radiation like a mirror. Using penotherm allows you to reduce the heating of saunas and baths by 2 or even 3 times.

How to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse

Let's move on directly to laying the thermal insulation. The ceiling is installed after roofing pie laid and walls erected. The roof is especially important, otherwise your insulation may suffer outdoors.

Let's consider the main methods of insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse:

• Flooring (for small baths).
• Hemming (for large baths).
• Panel (alternative to the first two).

It also makes sense to consider two types of bathhouse construction - with an attic and without an attic. It is best to make a bathhouse with an attic space. Firstly, you will have a place to dry your brooms :). Secondly, big air gap between the ceiling and the roof will significantly reduce heat loss from the ceiling and allow you to save on insulation. Of course, provided that the roof is properly insulated.

The most popular method of insulating a bath

This method is suitable for baths with or without an attic. The main condition for insulation is mounted ceilings. Before you begin laying thermal insulation, you need to treat the wooden beams with an antiseptic. We present to your attention, in my opinion, the most correct insulation installation scheme:

Stage 1. On the inside of the bathhouse we attach a layer of vapor barrier to the ceiling. We talked in detail about the vapor barrier of ceilings in a bathhouse in this article. In short, a vapor barrier that includes a layer of aluminum is best suited for a bathhouse. Aluminum well protects vapor barrier and thermal insulation from moisture, and also reflects thermal radiation back into the room, which allows you to reduce the warm-up time by 2! times. The vapor barrier is attached to the beams using a construction stapler; the fastening points are best treated with a special heat-resistant sealant. The vapor barrier seams are taped, the vapor barrier sheets are laid overlapping with an overlap of 4-5 centimeters.

Laying vapor barrier - cross-sectional diagram

From a different angle white material- vapor barrier

Dense laying of thermal insulation

As you can see, even a beginner in the construction business can insulate the ceiling of a bathhouse. In the attic, we also recommend that you lay special guides and lay the floorboard. And the waterproofing is intact, and there is free access to the attic. You can start preparing brooms.

Folk insulation method

Watch a video on how to insulate a ceiling with clay, sawdust and straw.

Voting - your choice of insulation

Dear bath attendants, we always welcome feedback from our readers. Please leave your opinions about insulating a bathhouse, your tips and suggestions, we will be happy to add useful things to the article. Now I ask you to take part in the voting:

A modern bathhouse is the ultimate dream of many dacha owners and country houses. The construction of this building must be carried out taking into account existing rules and technology. In particular, its functionality and comfort directly depend on how correctly it is possible to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse. The operation of this facility involves the creation of a given microclimate inside with air temperature and humidity significantly exceeding the average for the street and residential premises.

Lack of ability to properly insulate the surface, as well as ineffectively performed thermal insulation work, will require increased energy consumption during heating. In addition, condensation will settle on the walls and ceiling, which, dripping and flowing, will interfere with enjoying all the benefits of the bath and will gradually begin to harm the roof structure, increasing the risk of fungus.

Types of roofs in the bathhouse and methods of insulating them

The design of modern baths, regardless of the material used for their manufacture, can be of two types:

• with a warm roof;
• with a cold roof, which involves installing heat and waterproofing directly under the roof on the ceiling.

According to the laws of physics, heated air always rushes upward, and, without encountering barriers in the form of insulation, it will freely leave the room, reducing energy efficiency.

Insulation of the ceiling in a bathhouse with a cold roof can be done in two ways:

• from the inside of the room - simple and easy-to-implement technologies that are suitable for objects with high ceilings, allowing them to be reduced by 15-20 cm, depending on the insulation and finishing used.
• outdoors - it is advisable to use for low buildings, load-bearing capacity the roofs of which allow the installation of insulation on the ceiling in the attic space.

Selecting materials for insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse

The modern construction market offers a variety of materials with which you can efficiently and inexpensively insulate a ceiling of any design, structure and area. The main task for performing insulation with your own hands is strict adherence to installation technology, as well as the installation of additional layers of vapor and waterproofing. Taking into account the difficult operating conditions of ceilings in bath rooms, the insulation used must meet the following characteristics:

• resistance to sudden temperature changes;
• low absorption and stability during prolonged exposure to a humid environment;
• resistance to fungi, rodents and other biological microorganisms;
• simplicity and high speed of DIY installation;
• sufficient level of fire safety;
• low thermal conductivity to create and maintain the desired indoor microclimate for as long as possible;
• complete environmental safety of the material.

Let's look at the most common options for thermal insulation materials used for bathhouse ceilings. This will help determine the better of one or another insulation in each specific case.

Expanded clay

This is a natural bulk material obtained by burning clay shale. The packing density of the material depends on the selected fraction. The smaller it is, the higher the density. Among the main advantages of this insulation is complete environmental safety, as well as resistance to any air humidity and temperature changes. It is non-flammable and odorless, and does not generate dust during operation.

Considering the structure of this material, insulation with expanded clay is carried out only outside the room. It is filled in from the side of the attic floor, if the design of the bathhouse provides for such a space.

The technology for performing work with this material provides for the following procedure:

• cleaning the surface from dirt and foreign objects;
• installation of a vapor barrier film, which is attached using a stapler or double-sided tape;
• Expanded clay is backfilled in a layer of 15-30 cm;
• the material is covered with a waterproofing film on top;
• The final stage of such insulation is the installation of the roof or plank floor of the attic.

Among the main disadvantages of the decision to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with expanded clay, experts call the inability to install it from inside the room, as well as its use only on flat surfaces or with a minimal slope.

Ecowool

Although this material has not yet become very widespread, it can be used as a modern, highly effective insulation for ceilings. It consists of tiny cellulose fibers, which is harmless to humans and performs excellent thermal insulation functions indoors.

The technology for working with this material provides two methods of application. Dry installation involves external laying of material followed by compaction. In turn, wet application of ecowool is more effective, but requires special equipment, with the help of which the material is applied under pressure to the surface to be insulated. Among the main advantages of using this insulating material, experts highlight:

• complete environmental safety and the ability to easily tolerate sudden temperature changes;
• has a long service life and does not lose its qualities during use;
• minimal weight allows installation on surfaces with low load-bearing capacity;
• non-susceptibility to fungi and lack of attractiveness to rodents;
• treatment with fire retardants indicates increased fire safety and a tendency to self-extinguish during fires.

Mineral wool

Deciding which better insulation, many people choose this insulating material. Construction supermarkets offer users three types of this fiber insulator:

• glass wool;
• basalt wool, which includes mining waste;
• slag wool made from blast furnace melts.

This material has low thermal conductivity and is resistant to fungal growths and other biological organisms. Mineral wool is resistant to sudden temperature changes and is classified as non-flammable. It comes in the form of slabs or rolls, which are convenient to install on any surface.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling is effective, which can be done with the help of this material both from the inside and outside of the ceiling. In both options, it is necessary to install a vapor barrier at the bottom of the material, and a water barrier at the top. This will help rid the material of its main shortcomings:

• ability to absorb and accumulate moisture;
• evaporation of phenols, which may be part of the insulation.

Installation of mineral wool from the inside of the building is carried out on a pre-prepared sheathing, into the openings of which the material is installed. The frame is most often made of wood, but in some cases a galvanized profile can be used. The surface of the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier and finishing material. In the case of a bathhouse, it can be lining or other structures made of natural wood. You can learn more about the technology of insulating rooms with mineral wool by watching a step-by-step video.

The technology for installing this insulation from the attic side is the same as from the inside of the room. The only difference is the absence of lathing, since laying is done between the joists. In general, mineral wool can be installed on any surface, as in frame bath and capital, brick construction.

Expanded polystyrene

Despite some disadvantages, this material is one of the most common and is excellent for effectively insulating the ceiling of a bathhouse from the outside. It is easy to install, does not absorb moisture and has low thermal conductivity. Light weight and the ability to be cut to any required dimensions allow installation on the surface, without regard to the load-bearing capacity of the building.

The disadvantages of extruded polystyrene are the risk of releasing harmful particles during combustion. Work with this material is carried out as follows:

• leveling, cleaning and surface preparation;
• laying vapor barrier material;
• installation of thermal insulation material;
• fastening the plates using special plastic dowels;
• insulation of seams between slabs;
• pouring screed or laying finishing on top of the thermal insulation layer in the outer part of the ceiling.

Polyurethane foam

This material is one of the answers to the question - how can you insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse. The only limiting factor to its use is the need to use specialized equipment to apply it, the rental of which can be quite expensive. Among the main advantages of this material are:

• high thermal insulation properties;
• resistance to sudden temperature changes;
• high coating strength;
• the ability to carry out work both in a log bathhouse and in frame, brick or cinder block buildings.

A mixture of shavings and clay

This is an excellent in its characteristics and at the same time affordable insulation used from the attic. Sawdust and clay are mixed in a ratio of 10 to 1. Vapor barrier films are laid underneath. The thickness of the layer must be at least 20 cm. After drying, the surface is treated with antiseptics and covered with a hydrobarrier.

Earth insulation

This technology is ancient and is suitable for insulating the attic space of a log bathhouse. Blocks are placed on the ceiling, the height of which must be at least 6 cm. Next, insulation is carried out with foil. A layer of clay is placed on top of it to level the surface. After this, you can insulate the ceiling of the bathhouse with earth, the layer of which should exceed 20 cm. To isolate the surface from moisture, a hydrobarrier is laid on top.

Reed insulation

Mats made from these plants can also become excellent environmental insulation. They are laid overlapping between the joists, forming a surface with perfectly insulated joints. This one is natural the material is suitable for lovers of eco-buildings. Reed is not subject to a decrease in its properties during operation, its cost is lower than any similar materials. In addition, its low weight will allow it to be used in buildings with low load-bearing capacities.

Insulation of the ceiling in the steam room

The main function that the ceiling in a steam room should perform is to isolate it from the penetration of steam, which should accumulate in the room and not leave it during operation. To do this, two layers of vapor barrier and a layer of insulation are installed inside the room.

The standard scheme for insulating a steam room is as follows:

• the lower part of the floor beams is covered with boards;
• Rolling boards are manufactured. These are structures consisting of two layers of perpendicularly knocked down boards, between which a vapor barrier film is fixed. They should be located loosely to each other with a gap of 5 cm. From the chimney wooden surfaces must also be at a distance of at least 25 cm;
• the wooden surface of the shields is impregnated with special antiseptic compounds;
• Insulation is mounted on the panels. It is necessary to insulate all areas of the ceiling;
• Next, the ceiling of the steam room is covered with foil. It increases vapor barrier functions and makes surfaces fire resistant;
• the next layer is the finishing layer, which is treated with fire-retardant compounds.

After this, the insulation of the ceiling in the steam room from the inside can be considered complete.

Conclusion

Based on the above, we can safely say that insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse is a rather complex and labor-intensive process, the result of which can have a direct impact on the functionality, efficiency and ease of use of such objects. The complex of the above work is best entrusted to specialists, but if available the necessary tool, equipment and basic skills can be done on your own. The main task when performing insulation is strict adherence to technological processes and the willingness to follow all the rules for performing work until the desired result is obtained.

How to properly insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with a cold roof or attic? What is the difference, how to avoid mistakes?

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When going to a hot bathhouse to take a steam bath, we certainly put on a warm hat, although for a beginner it looks more than strange.

But a hat is like a heat insulator that absorbs moisture and protects your head from overheating. Likewise, when building the bathhouse itself, the insulated ceiling is the most important part.

It is unacceptable to forget about this after insulating the floor and walls for which they are used. different materials. In order for the bathhouse to retain heat well, it is necessary to correctly select the insulating material and method of thermal insulation of the ceiling, of course, taking into account the type of roof.

Main types of attic roofs

Types of bathhouse ceiling insulation:

• outside– more convenient to use, most effective for a ceiling located under an uninsulated roof; the insulation is laid out on the attic floor and covered with a rough or finished floor;
• from the inside– prolongs the durability of the material, there are no temperature changes, but you will have to “steal” a few centimeters of the height of the bathhouse, a frame is mounted on the ceiling, after fixing the first layer of vapor barrier, and insulation is placed in it, then the vapor barrier is again and the ceiling covering is attached.

With a cold roof or with an attic - what's the difference?

If there is an attic floor, there is a problem with the penetrating temperature threshold from the steam room, from where a large amount of steam, warm and hot air rises and, accordingly, if it is not properly disposed of, it will accumulate in the attic space. Therefore, in order to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with a cold roof, you should carefully calculate the thickness of the ceiling insulation taking into account the loads and take care of better vapor and waterproofing.

There is an opinion that it is not necessary to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with an attic, but increasing thermal insulation characteristics it is more necessary than in an uninsulated attic space, where the heat penetrating outside does not encounter serious obstacles on its way.

Insulation of the ceiling in a bathhouse with a cold roof

Warm air is lighter than cold air, so it rushes upward. Without meeting a barrier, it will heat the atmosphere; in order not to take part in the progress of global warming, it is necessary to organize proper thermal insulation. Air masses filling the under-roof space, of course, retain heat leakage, but this is not enough.

With properly carried out thermal insulation measures, the time for heating the room is significantly reduced, fuel is saved, heat and steam are saved longer, and the service life of the ceiling increases. Installing insulation in a multi-layer roof system prevents many types of heat loss.

How to insulate

Before laying the thermal insulation layer, a vapor barrier is laid. It prevents the transit of wet vapors and their settling in the insulation layer, because water accumulated in the insulation will increase the weight ceiling system and will deteriorate the insulating qualities.

The following are used as a vapor barrier layer: aluminum foil, compacted cardboard impregnated with drying oil, wax paper, special film with lint, membrane material.

For more information on using foil, see this page

How to insulate

Ceiling insulation with sawdust

Traditionally, people insulated wooden houses sawdust and lived, did not grieve in warm houses in severe frosts. People still recommend insulating the ceiling with dry straw and fragrant sawdust to this day. They are environmentally friendly, safe, hypoallergenic, natural. No special skills or special tools are required to use them.

If there is a solid base, a vapor barrier is first laid: roofing felt, rubimast, high-strength cardboard or membrane film; the edges are brought out to the sides of the beams and attached with a stapler to prevent spillage downwards. The cracks are first filled with foam. Then sawdust is poured in, pure or with impurities.

Sawdust-based insulation compositions

Sawdust-based insulation compositions are:

• clean– sawdust of different fractions is used, the rough layer is coarse shavings – 10 cm, the finishing layer is another 10 cm of fine shavings, usually this thickness coincides with the height of the beams, a diffuse membrane is spread on top so that the sawdust does not fly apart;
• with clay –
  • first option: a layer of crumpled clay is laid out - 20-25 mm, on top of sawdust, as a thermal insulation layer - 10-15 cm, dry earth - 10-15 cm;
  • second: shavings are mixed with clay in equal volumes and laid out on a prepared base 10 cm thick; clay to sawdust ratio 2:3;

• with cement - sawdust is mixed with cement in a ratio of 10:1, mixed with water to a very thick solution, laid in a layer 20-30 cm thick, antiseptic and fire retardants are added if desired.

Clay-based solutions

Clay concrete– obtained by mixing: sawdust, clay, lime, cement or gypsum with water. To knead 1 cube you will need: 200 kg of sawdust, 300 kg of cement, 70 kg of lime, 300 kg of clay, 350 liters of water. First of all, combine the dry ingredients, then add lime and clay. The result is a solution with good thermal insulation qualities, durable, reliable, inexpensive, and does not rot.

Clay-sand– the ratio of sand and clay is 2:6, water is added to the consistency of sour cream. The cracks of the flooring are covered with liquid clay, after drying they are laid vapor barrier membrane overlap by 15-20 cm, glue the joints with foil tape, evenly cover the base with a mixture of sand and clay 5-7 cm thick, after hardening, fill it with 10-15 cm of dry sand, logs and a finished floor can be mounted on top.

Expanded clay

Bulk type thermal insulation material. An environmentally friendly product, made from clay, perfect for thermal insulation of a bathhouse ceiling. Main properties: non-flammable, does not emit harmful substances when heated, light weight, does not create additional load. To insulate the ceiling, expanded clay with a fraction size of 4-10 mm is used, the layer thickness is at least 30 cm.

Useful video

Watch a video about how to properly use expanded clay for ceiling insulation and what mistakes to avoid:

Minvata

Mineral-based fibrous insulation is produced in the form of mats, slabs, and rolls. It is considered the most effective for thermal insulation of ceilings, it has a long service life, although it also costs more. Properties of mineral wool: retains heat well, noise insulator. Placed between floor joists. For a bathhouse with an insulated attic, a thickness of 10 cm is sufficient, with a cold ceiling of 15-20 cm.

Other insulation materials

ecowool from small cellulose fibers;
polystyrene foam boards– a favorite among heat-protective building materials, due to ease of installation and low cost;
folgoizol used to preserve the heat of the ceilings of baths and saunas; it is not subject to corrosion and decay from the environment.
polyurethane foam– material sprayed using special equipment.

Insulation of the ceiling in a bathhouse with an attic

The attic room is the coldest in the bathhouse, because... does not have a “thermal cushion”, so insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse with an attic is the most important task; with such a structural design, thermal insulation is used for both the second floor floor and the roof. After all, the excess heat from the bathhouse fully heats the attic room, and the heat-insulating layer prevents it from overheating.

Keeping warm under roofing material is also necessary. Both in winter and summer, you will be comfortable. Under the summer sun, the roof heats up, the outside heat combines with that coming from the steam room, and as a result, on a bath day you will get a scorching heat on the second floor.

How to insulate

The approximate “pie” of insulation from the inside of a steam room (about insulation for a steam room here) is as follows:

1. lining;
2. rail;
3. foil taped with tape;
4. rough board 150 x 20 mm;
5. floor beam;
6. glassine;
7. expanded clay – 120 mm;
8. Rockwool insulation – 50 mm;
9. glassine;
10. batten.

Useful video

Look at the explanation of the above illustration of a bathhouse roof pie with an attic:

How to insulate

What thermal insulation material should I use? Yes, everything that is listed above, from time-tested, natural, natural insulation materials to ultra-modern ones (wood chips, shavings, sawdust, sand, expanded clay, mineral wool, basalt wool, ecowool). More information on insulation for baths here.

conclusions

Heat leakage problems need to be solved comprehensively, and not just those discussed in this article. There are no trifles in organizing thermal insulation; window and door openings, walls, roof, ceiling, floor - everything must be done correctly, in compliance with building codes and calculations taking into account your region. When insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse with an attic, you should also take into account the thermal insulation features of buildings made of different materials: foam block, brick, frame, timber or logs.

Where to order or buy

When building a bathhouse or having problems with heat preservation in an already in use building, it is better to turn to professionals or get their qualified advice than to comprehend the science of construction by trial and error. But for those who prefer to master the techniques of building and thermally insulating a bathhouse on their own, you should pay attention to companies that sell insulation materials.

Insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse with a cold roof: 4 best ways

A cold roof is not designed to retain heat, so washing in a bathhouse with such a roof will be very uncomfortable. How to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse so as not to encounter such a problem? We'll figure out.

Why insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse?

If the roof of a building is cold, this means that it is not insulated. The under-roof space is separated from the street only by a layer of waterproofing and roofing elements. This gives certain advantages:

• low weight of the structure;
• savings on purchases building materials and installation;
• lack of ice in cold weather.

But there are also disadvantages. The biggest one is heat leakage. And as a result, the need to heat the room is much more intense. If a bathhouse is covered with a cold roof, the situation is aggravated by the presence of moist, heated air. It rises to the uninsulated ceiling, cools down and forms abundant condensation, which damages building structures and drips onto the people inside.

The presence of condensation on floors and ceilings is extremely undesirable. Moisture penetrates into the structure and begins to destroy it. Depending on the type of coating, it passes at different speeds, but always quite quickly. Fungus and mold that are dangerous to humans appear. The only way to solve all problems is to insulate the ceiling.

Method of proper insulation

Insulation involves laying a layer of insulating material that will retain heat inside the room. However, just an insulating layer in a bathhouse is not enough. It will not be able to fulfill its task because it will become saturated with moisture and deteriorate. In order for the insulation to last a long time, it is necessary to lay three layers of insulating materials.

Layer No. 1: vapor barrier

The main task of this layer is to prevent vapors from entering the insulation. All vapors rising from the heated room must be contained. Proven materials such as glassine or roofing felt can be used as an insulator for this layer. Or more modern geosynthetic coatings, various membranes and thermofol. It’s good if the coating is foil, then it can also shield heat, returning it to the room.

Layer No. 2: thermal insulation

The second layer of insulation cake should trap heat without letting it escape. A variety of materials can be used here. Which to choose, will tell you the budget and your own skills in carrying out construction work. It is important that the insulation is as light as possible (then it will not create unnecessary load on the structure that is resistant to moisture) and non-flammable, as simple and easy to install as possible.

How to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with a cold roof?

If the ceiling in a bathhouse with a cold roof is not insulated, condensation will accumulate on its surface. Cooled drops of water dripping from above onto people in the bathhouse will clearly deprive them of the expected pleasure. Droplets of water falling further upward with warm air currents will contribute to rotting and complete destruction of the ceilings, and in general, the roof rafter structure. The only way to prevent such troubles from occurring is to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with a cold roof.

Planning work on thermal insulation of a bathhouse roof

Before purchasing the building materials necessary for the work and preparing the necessary tools, you need to draw up a detailed plan for the insulation work to be performed. Drawing up a plan will allow you to avoid mistakes and alterations to the roof structure.

The process of thermal insulation of the ceiling and roof of a bathhouse is not very labor-intensive work, so it is not difficult to do it yourself, even if you do not have sufficient experience in carrying out repair and construction work. The main thing is that you must strictly adhere to the sequence (technology) of performing installation operations. Another argument for self-insulation of the ceiling is the availability of the necessary thermal insulation materials - they are available in almost all hardware stores.

Insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse with a cold roof includes 3 stages:

1. Thermal insulation.
2. Laying a vapor barrier layer.
3. Waterproofing.

At the end of the work, the result is a structure similar to a layer cake, in which the lowest layer is the ceiling, and above it there are successive layers of steam, heat and waterproofing insulators. Then you can begin to select the necessary building materials.

Choosing a heat insulator for the roof and ceiling of a bathhouse

In a well-heated bathhouse, it is necessary to maintain sufficiently high humidity and temperature values. Thermal insulating building material must be fully suitable for such requirements and, most importantly, it must not emit substances hazardous to people and the environment during heating. And besides this, a good heat insulator for a bathhouse should not support combustion, be excessively heavy and inconvenient to move and install.

Minvata

One of the most common options for fiber heat insulators for insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse with a cold roof and individual housing construction, available in 3 types:

• glass wool;
• slag wool produced from blast furnace waste (slag);
• stone wool is made from melts of basalt and other minerals.

The main advantage of mineral wool, in addition to very low heat conductivity, is that mold and fungi spores do not develop on it, and insects and rodents bypass it. For a bathhouse located on a plot of land, this advantage of mineral wool is very important. It should also be noted that this building material does not change volume and shape when the ambient temperature changes, does not support combustion, and is very convenient for installation due to its light weight. Mineral wool is produced in rolls or in the form of rectangular sheets/panels.

There are two disadvantages of mineral wool - this is the high ability of mineral wool to absorb any moisture (especially slag wool) and the phenolic compounds contained in it. These 2 disadvantages can be easily eliminated: with the help of good hydro- and vapor barriers and preventing contact of air flows and mineral wool, especially in the interior of the bathhouse.

Important: when performing any work with mineral wool, you must wear thick outerwear and use protective devices (goggles and a respirator) to protect your eyes and respiratory organs, since its small elements damage human skin, eyes and lungs.

Expanded clay

This building material consists of small porous clay pebbles. Based on all its properties, expanded clay is considered the most suitable thermal insulator for insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse with a cold roof.

Insulation of a bathhouse roof using expanded clay

This material is safe - it does not support combustion, does not harm people and environment, does not emit substances that are polluting or harmful to humans. Expanded clay is durable and does not collapse under the influence of the sun's rays. Fungal and bacterial spores do not develop in this building material, it is inexpensive and its installation is simple.

Expanded clay also absorbs significantly less water than mineral wool, however, for its installation it is necessary to use hydro- and vapor barriers.

Styrofoam

More recently, this heat insulator was one of the most popular among all heat-insulating building materials. But, despite its excellent heat-insulating properties, polystyrene foam cannot be used to insulate the roof or ceiling of a bathhouse - this building material is flammable and, when burned, releases toxic substances that are dangerous to human life. It can also decompose and lose its shape when exposed to high temperatures in the bath.

Ecowool

This is a fibrous natural heat insulator made from cellulose fibers with various additives that provide additional properties - resistance to combustion and protection against the appearance of rodents, microorganisms and insects. Ecowool has a low specific gravity and can fill absolutely all gaps and crevices.

Just like expanded clay, ecowool is an environmentally friendly heat insulator that does not emit hazardous substances into the air.

Roof insulation using ecowool

However, this heat insulator has a significant drawback - it absorbs a lot of liquid, which leads to a deterioration in the heat-insulating properties. Therefore, when using ecowool, excellent ventilation of the under-roof space and a high-quality waterproofing layer are necessary. Another disadvantage of its use is the complexity of installation; the “wet” installation method requires special equipment.

A mixture of cement and sawdust

This is a “classic” building insulation material that was used before the advent of foam plastic and mineral wool. Sometimes clay is used instead of Portland cement, and sawdust is replaced with straw.

Important: the sawdust used in this mixture must be dried for several months, or even better, for a year.

This is a very cheap and environmentally friendly thermal insulator, but with low thermal insulation characteristics. In addition, making the mixture is very labor-intensive.

Materials for hydro- and vapor barrier

Vapor barrier of the ceiling in the bathhouse is very important, otherwise the moisture circulating in the room will worsen the properties of the heat insulator and lead to the development of mold and fungi both on the ceiling itself and on the parts of the rafter structure. For vapor barriers, special films and coatings are most often used - in particular, with anti-condensation membranes (preferably with a layer of foil). Leading places on this moment, the market is occupied by vapor barriers from TechnoNIKOL.

Both special films and cheaper building materials - roofing felt or thick polyethylene can also be used as a waterproofing material.

Ceiling insulation in bathhouses

There are 3 main types of ceilings in baths:

Floor-type ceilings are common in small bathhouses, which are used seasonally and quite rarely. On the upper parts of the walls, boards that fit together are placed, fixed without support beams. The resulting structure is very simple, but it cannot withstand a lot of weight, so the thermal insulation layer must be thin and light.

Important: a floor-type ceiling must be erected just below the upper border of the walls in order to obtain space for pouring expanded clay or placing mineral wool.

From the attic side, a film vapor barrier is placed on the flooring so that the foil on it is directed downwards. The vapor barrier itself is laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm, and the joints and seams are sealed with special vapor barrier tape with a layer of foil.

Mineral wool is laid on top of the vapor barrier, expanded clay or a cement-sawdust mixture is placed. The insulation layer should not be thick.

Then the heat-insulating layer on top is covered with a waterproofing material (film or roofing felt) on top of which boards or plywood sheets are nailed.

Heated ceiling insulation

For this type of ceiling, it is not the flooring that is placed on the upper parts of the walls, but supporting wooden beams made from beams or spliced ​​boards. The attic floor and ceiling are then placed below and above these support beams. And in the space between the attic floor and the ceiling, layers of heat, steam and waterproofing are installed.

Stages of installing a suspended ceiling in a bathhouse

The process of placing a heat insulator is performed as follows. On the roof side, a film waterproofing insulator is placed on the beams and stapled. Next, boards or plywood sheets are laid on top of it. The false-type ceiling is durable, so the resulting under-roof space can even be used as an attic.

Mineral wool is placed between the beams. The thickness of the heat insulator depends on the location of the bathhouse structure: for middle latitudes 15.0-18.0 cm, in areas with strong winter frosts– 20.0-25.0 cm. Layers of heat-insulating building material are laid so that the joints of the previous layer overlap with the next layer.

A vapor barrier film is attached to the floor beams below. On top of the vapor barrier, slats are fixed perpendicular to the beams.

After this, the lining is laid, which is nailed or secured with self-tapping screws directly to the slats.

Insulating a panel-type ceiling is the most difficult and is practically not used for self-production. First, the panels are made directly, and then they are lifted up and fixed - either on cross-beams or on the upper parts of the walls.

Important: the choice of the type of ceiling and thermal insulation building material must be made based on the planned budget, construction experience, the area of ​​the bathhouse and the frequency of its use.

Any bathhouse needs high-quality insulation of the ceiling - warm air, according to the laws of physics, tends to rise upward. And if there is no thermal insulation layer along its path, then significantly more fuel will be needed to heat the bathhouse and maintain a consistently high temperature in it.

But this is not the only problem - in the absence of insulation, condensation will accumulate on the ceiling of the bathhouse, and drops dripping from above onto the head and back are unlikely to bring much pleasure to anyone. And the moisture that goes up along with the heat will contribute to the destruction of the ceilings and the supporting roof system. The only way to avoid these troubles is to do it in a bathhouse with a cold roof. high-quality insulation ceiling. And our material will tell you what and how to make it from.

Planning work

Before you buy materials and take up tools, you should carefully plan your actions. A clearer understanding of the matter will save you from annoying mistakes and the need to redo everything in the future.

The first question is whether it is possible to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse yourself? Or should we entrust this matter to a team of builders? The process of insulating the ceiling itself is not something complicated, so it is not difficult to do it yourself, even without much experience in repair and construction. The main thing is to carefully follow the technology and approach the matter responsibly. In favor self-insulation The ceiling also indicates the availability of the necessary materials - they can be found in any large hardware store or on the market.

The second question is what exactly needs to be done?? Ceiling insulation in cold bath consists of three stages:

• vapor barrier;
• thermal insulation;
• waterproofing.

The result should be a kind of “layer cake”, the bottom layer of which is the ceiling covering, and above it, vapor barrier, thermal insulation and waterproofing are located sequentially from bottom to top. More details about why this is necessary and how to do it will be discussed below. Now it's time to think about the choice of materials.

Selecting insulation

The melted bath maintains a very high temperature and humidity. The thermal insulation material must meet these conditions and, most importantly, not emit harmful substances when heated. In addition, a good insulation for a bath should be fire-resistant. It is undesirable for the thermal insulation material to be too heavy or inconvenient to carry and install. Now let's look at the materials in more detail.

It is the most common insulation option for baths and private houses; This is a fibrous thermal insulation material that exists in three types:

• glass wool;
• stone wool, which is made from basalt or other rock melts;
• slag wool, made, like cinder blocks, from blast furnace slag.

The main advantage of mineral wool, in addition to its very low thermal conductivity, is that it is not a breeding ground for fungi, mold, insects or rodents. For a bathhouse located on a private plot, this is especially important. It is also worth noting that this material does not burn, does not change its volume and shape when heated or cooled, and is very convenient to install due to its low weight. Mineral wool is produced in the form of rectangular panels or in the form of rolls.

As for the disadvantages, there are two of them - the ability of mineral wool to absorb moisture (especially for slag wool) and the potential harm of the phenols contained in them. Both of these disadvantages can be eliminated if you approach the issue of vapor and waterproofing wisely and prevent mineral wool from coming into contact with the air flow, especially inside the bathhouse.

Important! Small particles of mineral wool can have a damaging effect on a person’s eyes, skin or lungs, so when working with it, be sure to wear thick clothing and use gloves, safety glasses and a respirator.

Table. comparative characteristics various types of mineral wool.

Expanded clay

They are small pebbles made of clay with a porous structure. Based on the totality of its advantages, expanded clay is the most suitable material for insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse.

1. Safety– it does not burn, is environmentally friendly and does not emit harmful substances into the air.
2. Durability– expanded clay does not decompose under the influence of sunlight and does not collapse over time.
3. This material not an attractive environment for fungus or bacteria.
4. Has a low cost and is easy to install.

Expanded clay also absorbs significantly less moisture than mineral wool, but the need for vapor barrier and waterproofing layers still remains.

Expanded clay

Styrofoam

At one time it was one of the leaders among thermal insulation materials. But even taking into account all its advantages, you should not choose polystyrene foam as ceiling insulation in a bathhouse - in the event of a fire, the material burns well, and its smoke is very dangerous to human life and health. It is also capable of decomposing simply under the influence of high temperatures (and they are inevitable in a bathhouse), so polystyrene foam can hardly be called a reasonable choice in this case.

Styrofoam

Ecowool

A natural fibrous material made from cellulose with additives that provide flame resistance and protection against rodents, insects and microorganisms. Ecowool is lightweight and has the ability to fill all cracks and gaps. Like expanded clay, it is environmentally friendly and does not emit any substances harmful to humans into the air.

However, ecowool can absorb a lot of moisture, which impairs its thermal insulation properties. Therefore, when using it, good ventilation under the roof and high-quality waterproofing are desirable. Another disadvantage of its use is the complexity of installation - the “wet” method of application requires special equipment.

“Wet” method of applying ecowool

A mixture of cement and sawdust

It is a “classic” material for insulation, which was used even before mineral wool or polystyrene foam appeared on the market. In some cases, clay can be used instead of cement, and straw instead of sawdust.

First, a dry mixture is prepared in the following proportion: for 10 parts of sawdust, take one part of cement and one of lime. The resulting dry mass should be filled with one and a half parts of water to obtain a fairly thick and homogeneous solution. The mixture is laid out on the surface and distributed in a fairly even layer.

Important! It is advisable to use sawdust that has been dried for several months or better than a year.

This material is very cheap and environmentally friendly, but it does not have such high thermal insulation as expanded clay or mineral wool. In addition, the process of its manufacture is labor-intensive, and after installation it is necessary to repair the resulting cracks (and they are inevitable).

Materials for vapor and waterproofing

For a bathhouse, vapor barrier of the ceiling is vital, otherwise rising moisture will not only worsen the thermal insulation properties of the insulation, but will also contribute to the development of fungi and mold on the ceiling itself and on the roof rafters. Specialized films and coatings are used as vapor barrier materials. Special attention It is worth paying attention to anti-condensation membranes. When purchasing vapor barrier films, it is advisable to choose those with a foil layer.

Important! When working with such films, be careful and do not allow any rupture of the vapor barrier material or foil layer, otherwise its protective properties will significantly deteriorate.

As for waterproofing, you can use either special films, which can be found in any hardware store, or cheaper roofing felt or dense polyethylene.

Common vapor barrier materials: 1. Geosynthetics. 2. PVC membrane. 3. Glassine. 4. Tol. 5. Aluminium foil. 6. Thermofol.

Insulation of a flat ceiling

There are three main types of ceilings in the bathhouse:

• hemmed;
• panel;
• grazing.

Now we will look at the last type and find out how to insulate it and what nuances should be taken into account.

Floor ceilings are usually used for small-sized baths, which are heated quite rarely and seasonally. On top part the walls are laid with tongue-and-groove or simple edged boards, adjusted to each other and secured, without the use of support beams. The resulting design is very simple, but at the same time is unable to withstand a large load, because thick layer It is impossible to use thermal insulation here.

Important! It is advisable to lay the floor ceiling slightly lower than the height of the walls in order to leave space for filling expanded clay or laying mineral wool. If this is not possible, then sides should be nailed along the perimeter of the ceiling under the roof.

The step-by-step insulation of a bathhouse floor ceiling is as follows.

1. From the attic side, a vapor barrier film is laid on the flooring so that the foil layer is directed downwards. The material should be overlapped by 10-15 centimeters, seams and joints should be sealed with foil tape.
2. Mineral wool is laid on top of the vapor barrier, expanded clay is poured, or a mixture of cement and sawdust is laid, depending on your choice. Please note that it is not advisable to use a too thick layer of insulation, since a flat ceiling is not suitable for high loads.
3. The heat insulation layer is covered on top with roofing felt, polyethylene film or waterproofing coating, overlapping and carefully gluing the joints.
4. The final stage will be laying sheets of plywood or boards on top of the resulting “layer cake”.

It makes sense to use a flat ceiling in small-sized baths and in cases where the simplicity and speed of its installation and installation of insulation is important to you. If you are planning to make a fairly large steam room or arrange an attic under the roof to store bath accessories, then you should opt for a false ceiling.

Insulation of a suspended ceiling

Here, it is not the flooring itself that is laid on the upper part of the wall, but support beams made from wooden beams or boards spliced ​​together. And the ceiling and floor of the attic are laid on the beams below and above. At the same time, layers of steam, hydro and thermal insulation are laid in the space between them.

The process of insulating a ceiling with a similar design depends on what material you use. For mineral wool this happens as follows.

Video - We insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with a cold roof using mineral wool

The process of insulating the shed ceiling of a bathhouse with a cold roof looks a little different when expanded clay or a cement-sawdust mixture is used. Let's present this in the form of step-by-step instructions.

1. A rough flooring made of boards is laid on the floor beams below. The gaps between them must be treated with sealant or coated with a mixture of clay (or concrete) and sawdust.
2. A vapor barrier film is laid on the flooring both from the steam room side and from the roof side, and not only the boardwalk should be covered, but also the beams themselves.
3. Expanded clay is poured into the resulting boxes or ecowool is laid.
4. Roofing felt or other material is overlapped on top of the insulation waterproofing material and is attached to the beams using a construction stapler.
5. Boards or plywood are laid over the waterproofing to form the attic floor.
6. The lining is laid underneath on the rough boards.

If you use a mixture of clay and sawdust to insulate the ceiling, then it is advisable to put a layer of mineral wool on top of the frozen mixture or fill it with expanded clay - this will improve the thermal insulation performance.

Important! The optimal layer thickness of a mixture of clay and sawdust for using a bathhouse in the warm season is 50 mm. If you plan to steam in it in winter, then you will need to make a layer of insulation of at least 150 mm.

Insulation of panel ceiling

This kind of ceiling design is the most difficult to make yourself - first you need to make the panels themselves, and then lift them up and secure them either to cross beams or directly to the top of the walls.

Each of the panels is manufactured as follows.

1. A layer of boards, carefully adjusted to each other, is laid perpendicularly on the support bars. This layer will serve as the ceiling for the bathhouse.
2. Boards are attached to the inside of the resulting shield, which will serve as the sides of the panel.
3. Vapor barrier material is laid on the boards and sides and secured using a construction stapler.
4. Mineral wool or ecowool is placed in the interior of each panel. You can also use a cement-sawdust mixture or expanded clay, but in this case the panel will turn out to be especially heavy.
5. Placed on top of the thermal insulation material polyethylene film or roofing felt, with overlapping joints by 5-10 cm.
6. The top layer of boards is laid, which will serve as the floor for the attic.

The resulting panels should be lifted and mounted, and it would not be amiss to lay solid boards on top and bottom of them, connecting all the panels to each other. The joints between them also need to be insulated with strips of mineral wool scraps. As an alternative, you can take the same mixture of cement and sawdust.

Advice! The assembly itself ceiling panels, their lifting and installation is very labor-intensive. Therefore, it is advisable to use some kind of lifting device and work not alone or in pairs, but as a whole team.

Select the type of ceiling and used insulation material should be based on the budget, your own experience in construction work, the area of ​​the bathhouse and how often it will be used.

Video - Ceiling installation in a bathhouse