How to grow nolina or bottle tree at home. Tropical plant in your home - Bottle tree (Nolina)

Nolina or bottle tree surprises with its original structure. Few people realize that the nolina or beaucarnea plant is a succulent and requires appropriate care when grown at home.

Halo of nolina growth

Successful cultivation exotic flower nolina is possible after studying the natural growing conditions. Like any representative of succulents, nolina or Beaucarnea makes up the fauna of arid deserts.

The bocarney plant accumulates moisture in the trunk during rare rains, causing the lower part of the trunk to expand, taking on the shape of a bottle.

In South American deserts, nolina reaches a height of ten meters, producing clusters of white flowers during the flowering period. IN home growing With proper care, nolina can reach a height of two meters with a trunk base of almost a meter at the age of seven.

IN indoor floriculture An adult bottle tree is an outdoor plant. Nolina surprises the eye with her exotic structure. The thick trunk tapers at the top and ends in a tuft of long, leathery leaves, making the nolina plant resemble a palm tree.

How to care for nolina at home

When caring for bokarneya, one should not forget that it is a succulent. All succulent plants are perfectly adapted to the arid desert climate with hot sun and cold nights. It is necessary to bring the conditions for growing nolina at home as close as possible to natural conditions in order to get an exotic flower .

Green desert inhabitants are accustomed to droughts and stock up on moisture in advance. Nolina is no exception. This plant needs to be watered only when the substrate is sufficiently dry. Under no circumstances should you water from above or irrigate the leaves. Beaucarnea will only have an exotic bottle trunk if proper organization home drought.

Unlike its tropical counterparts, nolina needs regular drying of the earthen coma. Do not confuse drying out with drying out. Nolina uses the moisture reserve from the thick trunk if the substrate dries out for several days and successfully waits for the next watering. Succulent plants react painfully to overhead watering due to the lack of resistance to damage by putrefactive bacteria.

One of the basic rules for caring for nolina is bottom watering. When caring for a plant, you should place the flowerpot in a container of water so that moisture penetrates into the substrate through drainage holes. The flowerpot with the bottle tree is taken out of the water when it is wet upper layer soil, after which the plant is placed on a pallet.

Optimal lighting for nolina

Bokarneya grows well under straight lines sun rays. The best solution to place an unusual succulent there will be a south window. The plant is able to maintain a decorative appearance on western and eastern windows, subject to artificial extension of daylight hours. Nolina takes it well summer holidays on fresh air. It is important to remember that drafts are detrimental to a succulent flower.

Nolina does not require additional air humidification. Even on the hottest days, watering the leaves is not allowed.

Moisture that gets on the thick trunk of a plant can cause rotting and death of the specimen. Air temperature in summer should be in the range of +25+30 °C and +15+20 °C V winter period. Bocarnea safely tolerates long-term cold temperatures down to +10°C.

Desert plants cannot compete with representatives of the tropics in terms of growth rate. Succulents slowly deplete the nutrient reserves of the substrate. Nolina requires feeding no more than once or twice a month with a weak solution mineral fertilizers. Cactus complexes are perfect for a bottle tree. The concentration of the finished fertilizer should be half that recommended on the packaging. Bokarneya also responds well to organic feeding.

How to properly organize a rest period

The period of rest in the vegetative cycle of nolina is not prerequisite and depends on the location of the plant. Beaucarneys growing in poorly heated rooms go dormant when the air temperature drops to +15+10°C. Watering the bottle tree is carried out much less frequently or is stopped altogether.

When the flowerpot with nolina is placed in a well-heated room, the plant continues its vegetative cycle without a dormant period. Air dried out by radiators does not harm the environment. Watering is carried out as usual. bottle tree does not require additional air humidification.

Key rules for transplanting bocarnea

There are several main points that you should pay special attention to. They are as follows:

At home, nolina grows in open space in the soil, in well-ventilated and drained soil containing a large amount of sand. At home, they provide similar planting conditions for bocarney. Young nolins are transplanted every spring on the eve of the period of active growth. Adult plants are moved to larger flowerpots every three years. The trunk of the bottle tree should not be allowed to bury itself, as this will lead to its rotting and death of the plant. The first watering is carried out two to three days after transplantation.
The root system of the bottle tree develops around the periphery of the earthen ball. You should choose a wide, low flowerpot on legs with drainage holes. The elevated position of the pot will ensure complete aeration of the substrate and will not allow moisture to retain. The new container should not be much more spacious than the previous one.
The soil for nolina must contain sufficient quantity nutrients, peat and sand. Turf and leaf soils are suitable as a carrier of mineral compounds. Peat increases the aeration of the substrate, destroys pathogenic bacteria, and ensures water permeability. Sand makes the soil loose, permeable to air and moisture.
The finished substrate for cacti meets the above conditions. The right mixture easy to prepare yourself. It is necessary to mix equal parts of turf or leaf soil, peat and sand. We should not forget about the high-quality drainage layer, which occupies 30% of the planting capacity. Small pebbles are suitable for this purpose. You cannot use expanded clay and broken brick, since these materials accumulate moisture.

Methods for propagating nolina at home

New specimens of the bottle tree are obtained by growing from seeds or rooting cuttings. Nolina does not bloom when grown at home, so gardeners rarely manage to obtain seeds of an exotic plant.

Propagation by seeds

Seed germination is carried out in a low bowl with drainage holes and a tray. The planting container is filled with a substrate made from a mixture of peat and sand, taken in equal proportions. Seeds are soaked in water for two days before sowing in order to discard low-quality seeds that float to the surface. It is allowed to use a weak solution of potassium manganese for disinfection and growth stimulants.

The seeds are laid out on a slightly moist substrate, lightly pressed into the soil or sprinkled thin layer soil. The bowl is covered with glass or other transparent material and placed in a well-lit place. The mini-greenhouse is periodically ventilated. The first shoots appear after three to four weeks with sufficient light and high humidity air. The glass is removed only after the first leaves have formed on the seedlings.

Bocarnea seedlings are planted in separate flowerpots after the formation of three true leaves. The pot must meet the general planting requirements of this species. Replant in soil for succulent plants, not forgetting to fill the pot one third with a drainage layer.

Growing bocarnea from cuttings

Most often, nolina is grown from lateral cuttings. The houseplant rarely forms side shoots. Dutch gardeners pinch the top to produce several lateral shoots. Cuttings are carefully cut from the mother specimen close to the trunk. The cut is disinfected with crushed activated or charcoal. The resulting cutting is left for outdoors to dry the cut for five to six hours. The lower leaves are removed to eliminate unnecessary sources of moisture loss.

The pot for germinating the cuttings is filled with a thick layer of drainage mixture. Rooting of the cuttings is carried out in a substrate similar to that used for germination of seeds. The shoot is immersed in the ground to a shallow depth at an angle. Lightly compact the soil with your hands and cover it with a plastic dome to prevent moisture loss.

The improvised greenhouse is regularly ventilated by lifting the lid. The substrate is moistened using the method of bottom watering, adding a small amount of water to the pan. The appearance of new leaves means successful rooting bocarnea cuttings. From this moment the cover is removed. The young seedling is transplanted into a permanent pot when the plant has formed two or three new leaves.

Rules for forming a decorative flower

The exoticism of the bottle tree is due to the unusual structure of the trunk and the original"tops" from a haystack long leaves. Improper care of nolina at home can not only deprive the plant of all its decorative properties, but also destroy a valuable specimen. Only correct agricultural technology indoor plant is the key to obtaining an unusual plant with a thick base of the trunk and lush palm-like greenery.

Bokarneya forms a thick trunk to accumulate moisture. The bottle tree requires bright sunlight and rare but generous watering. Nolina, grown in partial shade or shade, has a thin, sloping trunk and dull leaves. Excessively frequent watering, depriving the plant of periods"drought" are unnatural for desert dwellers. The bottle trunk loses volume during the dormant period as the plant sells its moisture reserves. Nolina will successfully restore trunk volume after emerging from dormancy.

Flower growers from Holland often pinch the growing point of bocarnea to awaken dormant buds. In this way, effective"palm trees" nolina with several spherical shocks of greenery on one thick trunk. The bottle tree grows slowly, like many succulents. The crown of the bottle tree is constantly renewed; drying of the lower leaves is a natural process. To increase the decorative appearance of the plant, it is recommended to trim them carefully.

The main mistakes when growing a bottle tree

Nolina requires patience, bright lighting, and moderate watering.

Violation of the rules of agricultural technology for indoor plants often leads to the loss of an exotic species and the death of the specimen.

Too infrequent watering and incomplete wetting of the earthen clod leads to loss of moisture reserves and wrinkling of the trunk.

Excess moisture causes rotting of the roots and drying out of the ends of the leaves. Too much frequent watering and carrying out unacceptable spraying provoke irreversible rotting of the trunk. Beaucarney with a soft springy trunk will inevitably die.

Insufficient lighting leads to the formation of a thin, flat trunk that stretches towards the light. Additional lighting will help correct the situation. Bocarnea is not adapted to high air humidity and sheds its leaves in a damp room.

Too slow growth of green mass indicates a lack of nutrients. The problem is solved by feeding nolina. Roots growing outward through the drainage holes of the flowerpot signal the need to transplant into a larger container.

Desert plants are extremely vulnerable to damage by fungi and putrefactive bacteria. It is important to maintain low air humidity and not overhead watering or spraying. Occasionally, nolina is affected by thrips, scale insects, and spider mites. For preventive purposes, you should regularly clean the leaves from dust with a damp sponge. If pests do attack the plant, the leaves are treated with soapy water or insecticides.

Nolina is so unusual that she leaves deep impressions on those who see her. The trunk of this tree is covered with dense bark and in the lower part contains a rounded extension called the caudex. The caudex stores water and nutritional compounds for the entire plant.

The upper part of the shoot is completed by multiple oblong leaves. At first glance, it becomes clear how the plant acquired such interesting unofficial names - “bottle tree”, “elephant’s foot” and “pony’s tail”.

Types and varieties

(aka nolina bent ) is the most popular and not the only type on sale for some time now. The extensive shoot swelling in the caudex zone is colored brownish-gray, and thin curved leaves crown the tuft at its top.

- a tree with a short spherical trunk that stretches into a “bottle” with age. The foliage at the top is collected in rosettes.

- the most resilient of all nolins. Even a novice gardener can take care of it.

It has almost no trunk, but its leaves are extremely strong, and its small flowers form paniculate inflorescences. This species quite claims to be the shortest.

Named according to its drooping foliage, reaching a length of 1 meter. A short stem can be completely hidden behind a leafy curtain.

Although taller than the Lindemeyra nolina, it is also considered a short representative - no more than 2 meters in height. Old foliage shrivels and hangs, forming a “skirt” on the trunk. White-yellow flowers collected in large panicle inflorescences. Not suitable for growing at home.

It is characterized by a practically unexpressed trunk. Its height is natural conditions growth can be several meters.

Nolina care at home

Nolina is easy to care for and easy to grow. It is better to place it in a bright place where there is no direct sunlight or drafts.

In summer it is preferable to leave it outdoors, and in conditions of active growth it needs additional lighting.

Nolina watering

This plant has adapted to collect moisture, and therefore in the summer months hydration is reduced to moderate watering - the lump of earth should be wetted completely and the procedure should be repeated only after the soil has completely dried, and not immediately, but after a few days.

With the onset of winter and the establishment of a cool environment, watering ends - these are the most pleasant resting conditions for the plant. If the temperature has not dropped, continue to water as usual.

It is also worth noting that nolina does not require spraying at home, but the leaves must be systematically wiped with a soft, damp sponge.

Soil for nolina

Stores sell special ready-made soil for nolina, but you can also use a mixture for cacti and succulents.

Nolina pot

Planting and replanting of nolina is carried out in low, wide pots, which ensure the normal development of the surface root system of the plant.

The optimal size would be a pot that is capacious, but not spacious, with a width slightly larger than the height and a hole for water to drain.

Nolina transplant

After purchasing and planting, nolina needs to be replanted every year until it reaches adulthood. For adult nolins, transplants at intervals of once every 4 years are sufficient. After the transplantation procedure is completed, watering should not be carried out for 3-5 days.

The transplanting soil should be loose. Most suitable substrate is a mixture leaf soil, peat and sand in equal proportions; garden soil and small crushed stone will also cope well with this role. Providing good drainage is an important component of both growing and replanting nolina, so a layer of small pebbles (which can be gravel) is indispensable.

Nolina feeding

The growth of nolin at a young age is characterized by a fairly rapid pace. As a result, by 6-7 years, with skillful care, they become large outdoor plants. This assumes there is no need for additional feeding, although, if desired, it can be done periodically for these purposes (once every 3 weeks).

Use liquid mineral mixtures, reducing the fertilizer concentration recommended in the instructions for use by 1.5-2 times. Fertilizing can be done only during active growth and is done only after abundant watering.

Nolina trimming

In some cases, for example, in order to awaken dormant buds and get branches like dracaena, the top with foliage is cut off, exposing the plant to a high risk of contracting an infection through the wound - this should be entrusted to a professional.

Nolina in winter

For the winter, nolina needs additional lighting using fluorescent lamps and a gradual decrease in temperature to 10℃ so that it goes into a resting state.

If you have experience growing cacti and succulents in November-January, you can set the temperature to around 3-5℃ - this will create the best environment for nolina to rest.

Nolina from seeds

Propagating nolina by seeds usually does not cause any difficulties. Before sowing, you need to disinfect them with a solution of potassium permanganate and disinfect the soil in the microwave.

Sowing is carried out to a depth of 1 cm in a moistened substrate, then the seed container is placed in a warm place, for example, above heating pipes, and subsequently the soil is not allowed to dry out.

The seedlings that appear after a month must be placed in the most illuminated place; under no circumstances should they be fertilized. After another 1 month, the young animals should be seated in separate containers.

Reproduction of nolina by lateral shoots

Under the layer of nolina bark, dormant buds sometimes wake up. This is how side stems begin to grow, which can be used for propagation. Having separated the lateral shoot from the parent, you should soak it in a phytohormone solution for a day to stimulate root formation.

Next, it needs to be placed in the soil at an angle, covered with a transparent cap and placed in warm room. If root system planted stem is formed before the leaves begin to feel “thirsty”, there is a chance of success.

Diseases and pests

Proper care virtually eliminates the possibility of nolina being affected by any diseases. Her main enemies are spider mites, scale insects, scale insects and thrips. The presence of pests can be judged by deformation, yellowing and death of leaves .

Also, this should include Brown color tips of leaves , which is the norm for tall trees, but if this is associated with an increase in temperature (over 20℃), you need to start spraying the plant.

If the trunk acquired dried , wrinkled appearance - this indicates water loss during the wintering period, therefore, with the onset of spring, you need to begin gradually watering the plant.

An elegant beauty, called nolina, attracting attention and decorating any room - this is the dream of many gardeners.

Nolina and its types

Nolina or bocarnea in Latin it is called Nolina or Beaucarnea and belongs to the agave family. Also called "bottle tree" nolina grows naturally in the southern United States and northern Mexico.

The barrel, reminiscent of a bottle, makes the nolina particularly impressive and decorative. called caudex, and leaves collected in a rosette at its top.

It is in the caudex that nolina accumulates water and nutrients that can nourish it for a long time in case of drought. Thanks to this structure and unpretentiousness, nolina is able to withstand lack of moisture, dry air and temperature changes without loss.

At least 30 species of nolina are common in nature. The most popular of them are:

Beaucarnea reflexum, which in Latin is called Beaucarnea recurvata- a widespread species. It has a classic shape and very durable leaves, from which hats are woven in Mexico.
Nolina compressed, which is also called Beaucarnea stricta- the second most popular type. This is a plant with lush “hair” and a spectacular appearance.
Nolin Nelson or Nolina nelsoni- a species with bluish leaves and a practically undefined trunk.
Nolina Lindemeira, called Nolina lindheimeriana- This low growing plant with strong and dry leaves.

Features of care

Fortunately, caring for this unpretentious plant does not require unnecessary hassle or much experience. You just have to provide nolina suitable conditions and minimally care for her - and she for many years will decorate your home.

Choosing a location and lighting

The unpretentiousness of nolina allows it to be placed both on a sunny windowsill and in partial shade. However should be remembered that the plant needs as much light as possible to grow lush foliage.

Nolina can feel great even on a south window in direct sunlight. IN winter time it is highly advisable to provide bokarnye additional lighting.

In summer, nolina can be in conditions room temperature, in a hot room or outdoors. In winter, it is very advisable to gradually reduce the temperature to 10 °C, which will provide the plant with the best conditions for peace.

The main condition for nolina- absence of drafts that can destroy the plant.

Watering and humidity

In the summer, it is very important to fully water the nolina, but without waterlogging. The soil in the pot must dry thoroughly between waterings, otherwise the plant will to feel yourself bad.

Ideal option is bottom watering with immersing the container with the plant in water, after which unnecessary moisture drains off.

It is important to remember that a lack of water does not frighten Nolina, but an excess does. can ruin. In winter, when the conditions are cool, watering should be reduced or eliminated altogether.

Beaucarney does not need spraying- its durable leaves require regular wiping with a damp cloth.

Transfer

Transplant young plant it is necessary when the roots completely fill the pot, that is, once a year, and for adults - once every 3 years.

However for faster growth You can transfer nolina every spring into a new pot 2 or 3 cm larger in diameter than the previous one.

Soil for nolina must be nutritious and allow moisture to pass through well. The soil can be purchased at the store, and experienced gardeners can make the following mixture:

2 parts of turf land;
1 part river sand;
2 parts greenhouse humus;
2 parts leaf humus.

Nolina pot should not be very deep, but wide, because its roots grow in breadth. To protect the roots from stagnant moisture and rotting, it is necessary to provide the plant with good drainage layer one third the height of the pot.

When transplanting nolina it is very important do not bury the caudex.

Watch the video for a master class on replanting bocarnea (nolina):

Top dressing

In summer you can fertilize nolina twice a month. For this perfect fit mineral or organic fertilizers. It is very important to reduce the dose by half compared to that indicated in the instructions.

Reproduction

Nolina can reproduce:

Seeds. For successful results, you should soak the seeds in warm water or Epin solution for 1 or 2 days, then spread them on moist soil of sand and peat and sprinkle on top with a layer of this mixture equal to the thickness of the seeds. In the light, at constant humidity and a temperature of about 20 °C, seedlings germinate in about a month. The strengthened sprouts need to be planted in separate pots with ready-made soil for nolina.
Lateral processes. The shoots that appear on the trunk of an adult plant can be separated and rooted in a pot with sand, peat and vermiculite. It is advisable to cover the shoot with a transparent bag on top and place it in a warm and bright place. If the shoot is regularly sprayed, ventilated and kept at a temperature of 21 to 25 ° C, it will soon take root, which will mark the appearance of new leaves. After this, the plant is cared for as an adult bocarney.

Watch the video for a master class on growing nolina (bocarnea) from seeds:

Common problems and pests

At improper care The following problems may arise with a bottle tree at home:

The barrel of the nolina stretches out, A caudex does not grow- excessive watering and lack of light. The solution is more light and regular but short periods of drought.
They dry out and fall off lower leaves - this is a natural process. The solution is to cut off the dried leaves using scissors.
The tips of the leaves dry out- indoor air is too dry. The solution is to spray with soft water at least once a day.
The trunk shrinks and dries out- natural loss of shape after a long winter. Solution - routine care from spring to autumn, when the plant can again accumulate more moisture in the trunk.

Secrets of growing and common problems When caring for Nolina, watch the video below:

Nolina's enemies are, and. These pests cause deformation, yellowing and death of leaves. In case of infection, it is necessary to wipe the leaves soap solution, and then treat them with karbofos.

Pest prevention nolins are rubbing the leaves, as well as keeping the plant in the light and warm.

Useful properties of nolina

Nolina is a beautiful and unpretentious plant that also has health benefits:

Nolina improves the air indoors, enriching it with oxygen, ozone and air ions.
The plant helps the household strengthen immunity and get sick less.
Nolina creates psychological comfort in the room and calms down nervous system people living in it.

Professionals will tell you about the features of caring for nolina (bocarnea) at home in the video:

As you can see, nolina is a very beautiful and useful plant, which is not at all whimsical to care for. Even a beginner in floriculture can grow and maintain nolina. It's only worth donate to the bottle tree a little care and love - and it will answer you with a luxurious fireworks of green leaves and a spectacular appearance of caudex.

The bottle tree is called Nolina in another way; people also call it " indoor palm tree“, it also has a name “pony tail”. At the very bottom, the trunk of the bottle tree becomes thicker and wider - this is necessary to accumulate water reserves. This ability This tree helps it survive in dry places where there is little rainfall. The leaves of the bottle tree have a very longer length, they also help the plant to tolerate dry weather well.

The bottle tree is ideal for those who want to grow any large indoor plant. The bottle tree has gained enormous popularity thanks to simple care behind it, the ability to withstand sudden changes in temperature and its special decorative beauty. Just look at the photo to be convinced of its originality.

This plant is best suited for those rooms where modern interiors predominate. In the plant market, the bottle tree has a fairly high price. Homeland of this tree is North America. Today, this is where most bottle trees grow. In this article we will look at detailed description of this plant, its types, tips on growing and caring for it.

Varieties of bottle tree

Let's consider the most popular types bottle tree:

Beaucarnea is thin. Like almost all types of bottle tree, it tolerates dry temperatures well. Most specimens of this species grow in Mexico. The thickness of the tree trunk is a little more than one meter. The height can be several meters. Indoors, the plant reaches about one and a half meters in height.

Note: Thin bokarnia needs to be watered very rarely, in hot weather - moderately, and in winter, once a season is enough.

Thin bocarnea grows over a long period of time, that is, slowly. At home, this type of bottle tree will not bloom. The room temperature should be maintained slightly below room temperature. In winter - a little more than ten degrees Celsius. This type V wildlife can tolerate even low temperatures.

Note: Thin bokarnia must be exposed to a large amount of light. You should not darken the plant, because this may stunt the growth of this type of bottle tree.

You need to fertilize the plant in the summer.

Unlike many plants grown at home, there is no need to replant - this is one of the advantages of bocarnea. Reproduction of bocarnea thin is carried out using seeds.

When too high temperature In the room, the leaves of this type of bottle tree may begin to dry, in this case it is either necessary to reduce the temperature in the room, or, conversely, increase the humidity in the room. You can spray the leaves.

For a plant to grow successfully, it must be positioned correctly. The plant should receive plenty of sunlight. The temperature must be maintained at a constant 20-24 degrees Celsius.

Please note: Recurvata should be watered not cold, but warm water. It is necessary to ensure that the soil in the pot does not dry out. If overwatered, the trunk of this type of bottle tree succumbs to rot, and subsequently the tree dies.

This plant can be susceptible to various diseases and harmful insects, although it has a certain resistance to them. A sign of a disease can be expressed in a change in the color of the leaves of the bent nolina. Treatment can be done using various chemicals.

Sometimes the plant should be shaped using pruning. Usually, recurvata needs pruning when its leaves turn yellow.

Take note: The process of cutting leaves from Recurvata should occur smoothly and carefully; they should be cut at the base so as not to damage the plant. It happens that the tips of the leaves may become dark, in which case they also need to be removed. There is also no need to get carried away with pruning, as this can harm the plant.

The bent nolina can decorate any interior of the room. What this bottle tree needs most is light. If the day is cloudy, it is recommended to place a lamp near the tree to increase daylight hours by several hours. Recurvata grows quite quickly, but in the winter season this process becomes slow.

Note: If you decide to fertilize Recurvata, then to prevent the base of the tree trunk from getting burned, the fertilizer should be diluted in large quantities water.

There are trees of this type of small size. Like most bottle tree species, Brachychiton prefers bright light. In spring and summer, the plant should be kept in rooms where the temperature rises above room temperature (28 degrees Celsius).

Gardener's advice: the room where Brachychiton is grown must be regularly ventilated.

The plant should not stand next to heating equipment. Brachychiton needs to be fertilized once every three weeks (only in summer).

BOTTLE TREE (Brachychiton rupestris)or rock brachychiton. With this name, a tree in the shape of a gigantic bottle immediately appears before your eyes.

Bottle tree This impression is correct, because the trunk of the bottle tree really has the shape of a pot-bellied bottle. The tree can reach 15 meters in height. As for the diameter of such a tree, it can be three meters.

The tree grows in Eastern Australia and is very loved by the local population. When periods of drought occur, the leaves of the tree are used to feed livestock. But the trunk of a bottle tree is a source of drinking water! In addition, in the upper part of the trunk, very sweet juice accumulates in special cavities. This is real nectar! The whole plant is used. Thus, bottle tree seeds are roasted or eaten raw. The roots of young trees are very juicy and are eaten as root vegetables.

It is worth noting that the saying: “You can’t pull a fish out of a pond without effort” also works here. So, in order to get tasty tree nuts (seeds) you have to work hard. The fact is that the seeds are in pods, the peel of which is thick. In addition to this, each seed has bristles on top. It is because of this bristle, a kind of chiton, that the tree received its name - brachychiton. Collecting seeds is carried out only with gloves, as the stubble causes itchy skin.

The seeds ripen in pods, the length of which reaches 10 centimeters. The pods look very impressive on the tree due to their purple hue. It is from these boat-shaped pods that the seeds, which are covered on the outside with bright yellow hairs, are obtained.

The leaves of the bottle tree are succulent and dark green in color. As for their shape, the leaves on the same tree can have different shapes. It's all about the age of the foliage. So you can see how simple the leaves are oval shape adjacent to leaves that have three to five lobes. This is possible with fairly old trees.

The flowers of the bottle tree are shaped like bells. They are small: the diameter of each bell is about 1.5 cm. The flowers are collected in inflorescences and therefore produce unforgettable impression. Bells can be different color: greenish, cream or white. Inside, the bells are completely covered with specks of different shades.

Well, if you look into the wilds of our subject area, then you can say something else.

Like many other attributes of human existence, living ornamental plants, including succulents, are also influenced by fashion, which, as a rule, comes to us from the West, with the possible exception of the art of bonsai and miniature stone gardens. And even in this case, both arts, having arisen in the East, first conquered the West, undergoing a phase of adaptive development there in accordance with the European mentality, and from there, that is, from the West, they are slowly winning their fans in the vastness of the former USSR. However, in last years in this case, there is also a significant influence of the East, especially noticeable in the eastern regions of Russia.

And although the fashion for various groups of succulents is not as pronounced and fleeting as, for example, for women's clothing, a number of trends can still be traced quite clearly. Thus, the West has long experienced several decades of cactus boom, which was replaced by a shorter (about a decade) period of fashion for “living stones.” The last 25-30 years can be safely called the era of bottle trees or caudiciforms. This is evidenced by numerous clubs for lovers of these plants, as well as sales volumes of both seeds and live plants by many specialized Western companies. (Probably, however, crazes for other types of plants - mezembs, crassulas, "bottles" - do not replace cacti, but arise and develop in parallel with them, i.e. the process does not proceed sequentially, but in parallel - ed.) It should be noted that the first bottle trees (from Africa - ed.) in European collections appeared several decades earlier than the discovery of America and the creation of the first collections of cacti. IN botanical garden Kiel University (Germany) has species of the genus Cyphostemma, which are about 550 years old.

The term "caudiciform" (from the Latin caudex - trunk, stump) was proposed by Dr. Gordon Rowley (O.K.o^1eu) to designate succulents, the main water-storing organ of which is the so-called hypocotyl or subcotyledon - the part of the shoot (stem) located between root and cotyledonous leaves or leaf (in monocots). There is also the term “pachycaulous (that is, thick-stemmed) plants,” which refers to succulents in which the water-storing function is performed by the real stem, and the photosynthetic function is performed by the leaves, which, as a rule, are non-succulent, partially or completely falling off in the dry season. For example, Pachypodium brevicaule, Adenium repanda, Euphorbia trichadenia are typical caudiciforms, and Pachypodium lamerei, Adenia keramenthus, Euphorbia bupleurifolia are typical pachycaulous plants. However, it is not always possible to distinguish between the two, even by introducing quantitative characteristics(for example, the ratio of the mass and volume of the stem to the caudex), since much depends on the growing conditions (crop) and the age of the plants. Therefore, both terms are often used interchangeably.

In addition, in many caudiciforms and pachycaulous plants in culture, the function of caudex and stem is performed by thickened roots, tubers, bulbs and the like, usually underground organs, specially raised above the soil surface when planted. And finally, many succulents, primarily deciduous ones, can be formed into caudiciforms or pachycaulous plants by appropriate pruning. All this diversity, with some degree of convention, is usually called bottle trees. The convention is that not all species are trees, and their shape is often not “bottle” (this term itself is familiar to many school courses botany and geography and is associated with the sun-scorched African savannah with free-standing baobab trees).

Considering all of the above, it is difficult to indicate, even approximately, the total number of bottle tree species. However, even with the most strict approach, there will be at least 1000 of them - a number that can satisfy anyone, even the most “greedy” collector.

It should be borne in mind that bottle trees are not a systematic category, but a morphological-physical one, or, if you like, “physiognomic”. That is, visually perceived, which is why such plants are found in many botanical families. Thus, all succulent representatives of the Kutrov family (Apocynaceae) are caudiciforms and pachycaulous; Bombacaceae; Passion flowers (Passifloraceae); Cucurbitaceae (Cucurbitaceae), except the genus Xerosicyos; Geraniaceae (Geraniaceae); each of which contains more than a dozen species. This also includes not so numerous succulent representatives of the families Burseraceae, Anacardiaceae, Fouqueriaceae, Icacinaceae, Mullaceae, etc. In addition, the following taxa of the genera belong to bottle trees in their entirety: Brachystelma, Fockea, Raphionacme from Asclepiadaceae, Cyphostemma from Vitaceae, Jatropha from Euphorbiaceae, and among the Euphorbia proper there are many caudiciforms. There are several types of "bottles" and among such widespread indoor plants like balsam (Impatiens) and begonia (Begonia). On the other hand, there are few caudiciforms in such a well-known succulent family as Crassulaceae - only the genus Tylecodon; and there are practically none of them, except for the thick-rooted Trichodiadema, Delosperma, Nananthus, etc., among the Mesembryanthemaceae and Cactaceae. There are few typical bottle trees among the class of Monocots (Monocotyledonis) plants - Nolina, Beaucarnea, Calibanus, Testudinaria, however, monocots include all bulbous and corm plants, which, if planted high, have a completely “caudiciform” appearance, and many of them are beautiful are blooming.

Diversity appearance bottle trees are very large. Here you can find miniature Tylecodon and Othonna, not even 10 centimeters long, and huge 60-meter Ceiva pentandra, and squat Trematosperma cordatum reaching three meters in diameter, which during the dormant period look more like fragments of rocks or giant termite mounds than living plants. The stems of the “bottles” can be more or less smooth, prickly (most Pachypodium), cut with deep cracks (Testudinaria) or, which is especially valued by collectors, decorated, like scales, with leaf pads, the so-called gifts. These are some representatives of Euphorbia, Othonna, Tylecodon.

Due to their large systematic diversity, it is difficult to talk briefly about the flowers of bottle trees. Among them there are both species with small, inconspicuous yellowish-green flowers (most Pumpkin flowers), and those with relatively large bright ones, for example, Kutrovye. And if, with qualified care, some “bottles” (Ipomea, Adenuim, some Pachypodium, etc.) begin to bloom from 3-4 years of age, then achieving flowering at home, for example, baobabs (even the smallest of them - Adansonia fony) is practically impossible. In general, we can say that for collectors of these plants, flowering is not an end in itself, although, of course, no one will mind if some species do bloom.

In natural habitats, many bottle trees, especially large species, prefer fairly moist landscapes - savannas, woodlands, etc. Small species are often found in drier places. The dry season, as a rule, helps them to transfer the ability to be partially or completely drawn into the soil. For the same reason, many of them can tolerate light frosts, but in general, among typical pachycaul plants there are practically no truly winter-hardy species.

Africa is richest in bottle trees, especially Southern and Eastern Africa, including the floristically close southwestern part of the Arabian Peninsula and small nearby islands. Next come Mexico and the USA, then South America, the rest of Asia and, finally, which is especially offensive, Australia, most of which is occupied by arid (arid) regions. The island of Madagascar deserves special mention - a real natural reserve of bottle trees. Suffice it to say that most of the known species of baobabs and pachypodiums grow here, and there are original representatives of the genera Adenia, Cussonia, Cyphostemma, Moringa. In addition, Alluaudia, Alluadiopsis, Delonix, etc., which are not found anywhere else, grow on the island.

The culture of bottle trees in general terms (except for watering) is similar to that for other succulents, however, due to the wide variety of ecological conditions of natural habitats, it has a number of features, some of which will be discussed below.

The best, and often the only* way to propagate most of these plants is by sowing seeds. In this case, the annual development cycle should be taken into account individual species. This factor is especially important for all Tulecodon, Sarcocaulon, deciduous Othonna and Plargonium, which in our conditions are dormant in the summer. It is better to sow the seeds of these species between August and February, otherwise it can be difficult (this is especially true for representatives of the genus Tulecodon, which have small seeds).

During the growth period, all these plants need to be provided with the maximum possible natural light, and in more northern areas, where the day length does not exceed 6-7 hours, artificial supplementary lighting, especially with the onset of cloudy weather. Even at first, seedlings of these species do not need high humidity air, so there is no need to equip a greenhouse, and during the germination period, it is enough to cover the bowl with the seeds with a suitable size glass jar or other transparent dishes When sowing, you should also take into account the fact that some pachycaul plants (Adansonia, Сuphostemma, Jatropha, etc.) have rather large seeds, which before sowing are recommended to be soaked for a day in a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate, while full-fledged seeds are immediately or after some time they sink to the bottom. It is better not to sow seeds that after 24 hours remain floating on the surface of the solution (or sow separately) - they are unlikely to sprout, but can become a source of various infections. Large seeds are planted to a depth approximately equal to their size. To prevent germinating seeds from being eaten by fungus gnat larvae and other pests, the soil surface must be sprinkled with a solution of some insecticide, periodically repeating this procedure if the seeds do not germinate for a long time (which is very typical for Surhostemma). Sowing should receive adequate lighting, especially for species with large seeds. Otherwise, the seedlings become very elongated, which subsequently affects their decorative properties - often the lower part of the stem remains much thinner than the upper part, which grew in “normal” light.

The standard soil mixture for succulents (equal parts of turf soil and coarse sand) is suitable for the vast majority of bottle trees. The only exceptions are Hydnophytum and Mirmecodia, which grow in nature epiphytically, for which it is advisable to add 20-30% peat or deciduous land. It is better to use a similar mixture for sowing, especially small seeds.

When cultivating tall pachycaul plants at home, primarily fast-growing ones (Adansonia, Ceibа, Chorisia, etc.), you have to resort to pruning. It is better to carry out this operation in the first half of the growing season, so that the young growth has time to mature before the “drought sets in.” If it is planned to cut off more than a third of the crown, it is advisable to time the pruning to coincide with replanting and accordingly trim the roots of the plant in order to avoid a sharp imbalance between the underground and above-ground parts, which often leads to the death of the plant. In culture, they often resort to pruning species that produce a climbing crown (most Cucurbitaceae, Ipomoea, Dioscorea, etc.). In this case, it is necessary to leave a small part of the climbing shoot with several leaves, since repeated cutting “to the stump” (caudex) during the growing season leads to severe depletion of the latter and, as a consequence, to the death of the entire plant. It is absolutely impossible to prune such caudiciforms if the goal is their flowering and fruiting. When pruning, you need to ensure that the cut is above the cotyledon leaves or the place where they were (in older specimens), since not all species are capable of producing shoots below the specified point. Cut parts of plants can be used for cuttings, however, even treatment with various biostimulants does not always lead to success.

It is better to transplant bottle trees at the beginning of the growing season, and not at the end of the dormant period (such as cacti). The difference is that the “bottle” needs to be watered 1-2 weeks before transplantation, and then replanted, with all the precautions recommended in such cases. This is especially important for heavily wrinkled plants, which, as a rule, overwintered at elevated temperatures.

The vast majority of bottle trees are not supersucculents, so during the growing season they need regular, fairly abundant watering, and winter dormancy should not be delayed for more than 5 months, especially for young plants. A temperature of 10-15°C at this time will suit most species. If it is not possible to provide such conditions, the plants have to be watered occasionally, and winter growth can be cut off in the spring if it spoils appearance. Many “bottles” do not require light during the dormant period and can successfully winter in the depths of a cool room.

Various bulbous plants and other geophytes are best cultivated in flat pots - 1-3 cm high, depending on the size of the bulb, otherwise, due to the contractile (retracting) ability of the roots, the bulb will disappear into the soil during the first growing season. Most of these plants successfully vegetate and bloom in such an unnatural planting for them; moreover, often the bulbs during the growing season are colored in color due to the surface scales. various colors, or acquire interesting designs. In addition, other things being equal, primarily light, a high-planted bulb expels shorter leaves, which generally has a positive effect on the overall appearance of the plant. However, with this method of cultivation, it is necessary to remember that many potentially winter-hardy geophytes lose their winter hardiness and can die at -3°C overnight, and it is better not to allow the temperature to drop below 0°C at all.

When cultivating bottle trees, you need to take into account such an unpleasant feature as the toxicity of some of them. These, first of all, include the vast majority of Euphorbiaceae, especially representatives of the genus Synadenium, as well as Adenium, Тulesodon, etc. When working with these plants, especially when pruning, caution is required, otherwise the juice getting into the blood or on the mucous membranes of the body can cause serious poisoning. For the same reason, contact with such plants by children, as well as pets and birds, should be excluded. And although what is poisonous to humans may turn out to be completely harmless or even beneficial for animals and especially birds, it is hardly worth experimenting on this topic.

Some caudiciforms and pachycoulae belong to rare and endangered species (Dendrosicyos socotrana, Pachycormis discolor, some Pachypodium, etc.) and are included in the Red Book International Union The Nature Conservancy (IUCN). The collection of these plants in natural habitats is prohibited or strictly limited, and their cultivation or propagation in captivity should only be encouraged, as it allows you to preserve and increase the gene pool of these species (though not always complete, but still it is better than not having any).

Many bottle trees, thanks to their whimsical silhouettes, can serve as an excellent decoration for well-lit rooms, small species suitable for creating various compositions, many species of these plants are a grateful material for bonsai lovers; most bulbous plants in bloom are suitable as an excellent gift instead of ordinary cut flowers.