Kiss skis. Water skis - made of plywood sheet Fasteners for skis

Holidays today coincided with frosts. Forced downtime, and especially during the season - oh, how unnerving. I decided to start making hunting (winter) skis. And time seems to be ticking for the future perspective.

I’ll start right away by telling you how I make “winter” kitty skis for walking in snow above the knee! Autumn skis are shorter and therefore stronger. Ski height at eyebrow (approx. 180 cm). Width is 21 cm. Everything is simple here: 60-70 kg (hunter) _ 16-18 cm, 70-80 kg _ 18-20 cm, for 80 kg preferably more than 20 cm. If you make wider skis - for example 24 cm (walking through the forest on them is very inconvenient - you won’t be able to squeeze between the trees, on someone else’s ski track - you’ll quarrel, and your legs are always “splayed”).

We chop out the blanks (wood) in the spring or autumn. I store it at a height in a ventilated room (in a woodshed under a roof) with the wane facing up (since the process of rotting may begin at the point where the bark comes into contact with another tree). After the summer, I cut down the bark (so that the resin comes out) and again in the same place. Trees are stored for at least two “years”. Of course, you can speed up the drying process, but firstly, you prepare several pairs at once, and most importantly, with accelerated drying, cracks form at the ends. The tree is usually 200 cm long (if you make it 230-250 cm for the first time). Photo of aspen cuttings.

good wood - the skis are very light, the main thing is not to over plan. Need impregnation or painting. And of course in the “correct” glue. If you glue it with “carpenter’s” glue, then it’s better not to walk in the steam (thaw) (the kitties will start to fall off).

There were spruce trees - I made them from them.

View from above. In order to plan less, I measure out 3-4 cm, draw a line, make cuts to the line and cut it down (I don’t chop off the wood when cutting it out). Experts do not recommend it (I haven’t gone into the science on this matter - it may be related to the drying process - I do as they recommended). The electric planer is a miracle of technology!! First, I cut off the bottom (preferably it should be even) and a little bit of the edges, 2-3 cm, so that they don’t wear out too much (the pussy). Next is the top with a smooth descent to the edges. I correct it manually.

I try to make the middle (the place where the fasteners are attached to the board) level. I select the middle from the bottom of the ski.

The boards are ready. Next, we lower them into a bucket, pour water, turn on the boiler and close the lid (so that it heats up quickly and does not steam). We insert a cap between the boards. I boil for 1.5-2 hours.

We clamp it into the “machine” and make any angle you need. I don’t “like” sharp “corners” that get cut into the snow. You can only walk on the crust, otherwise if there is no rise, it’s pure torture.
We use a stick to adjust the “angle” (knock it out little by little) so that the tree gets used to it.
We harden the skis on both sides. I don’t bend the backs (personally I “don’t like it” - but that’s my opinion).

Toes and heels (beginning of sawing) towards the nose or heel (since when sawing to the ski, a flake of wood may occur). I cut it out piece by piece - just don’t rush (otherwise you can split it in an instant).

After sawing and cutting (planing on both sides) - the thickness at the ends is 2-3 mm - the path is 2 cm. I mark marks with a pencil symmetrically under the holes (about 2 cm). I drill d=2 mm. I burn holes for the thread with a hot awl. When burned, the edges become hard and the thread does not cut through the wood under load.

We are looking for the center of the ski; I shift it towards the heel by 3 cm and secure it after marking with glue and screws. If the ski is thin - screws - from the bottom, if thicker - from the top (in this report - 2 options). After marking, I use a thin drill to make several holes to temporarily secure it (if on top of the screws, I insert a few nails, if from below, a few screws from above). When applied to glue, the sliding process begins and catching the middle is oh so difficult.

Oh, that's wrong installed mount- 100% lateral movement when moving!!

This photo shows the mount from below. If when tightening the self-tapping screws there are some slippage, it’s not a problem (it’s better if the fastening is reliable). We burn the edges of the cracks with an awl (then glue will get there and everything will stick together).

Pull the thick thread (you have to tinker with this). Preferably under load (you can rest the ski against the ceiling so that it bends a little). I pull it with my hands - pass it through the adjacent hole and clamp it with an awl - then tie the knots. It turns out like a stretched string!? Using 3-4 wire staples for each thread, we nail it “to the bend” of the ski. You can screw long brackets and nail them.

I strip kitties from the very hoof inside legs. I cut it after the carcass has been completely cut up. And there is less wool and it is more useful for business. Depending on the size of the animal (you look where the hair went long - it receded a little - even if it was a wide place). I rolled it up into a bag, and at home you cut off the excess - the dogs will chew it off or burn it in the oven.
I strip it and pull it onto the boards. I make sure to stretch it out wide and don’t spare the nails.
The bottom, where the skin is thick, is cut off on the sides so that a strip of 13-15 cm remains and I also stretch it with force (the more you stretch it, the thinner the pussy will be).
This is followed by drying away from the stove (a week or even 2) and storage. I tie each animal to a wire and hang it on a perch until use. The gallery has photos from comm. (“So that the moth doesn’t eat”).

Now we choose (it’s good when there is one) for each ski separately! We weigh the skis and decide on which ones. For thin ones - thicker kitties (if the skis turn out to be level, there is a choice). I don't make pussy anymore. I make thin skis - thick kitties. If the kitties are thin, they will wear out faster!
I cut it so as not to cut through the hair!

No further photos are coming through!? I will try to finish this work in the second part.

Every hunter or lover of winter tourism knows how difficult it is to walk on virgin snow even on wide hunting skis. If we also take into account the mass of equipment (backpack, gun, supplies), it turns out that the supporting area of skis for loose snow should be 2.5 - 3 times larger than that of ordinary skis.

Many hunters, especially from the Russian North, successfully make homemade skis from straight-layer birch.

Wood should be harvested in winter, when the movement of sap in the tree has stopped. The tree is stripped of its bark and a sprat is made along the length of the skis. The sprat is sawn and split into bars five centimeters thick.

Using planks, the bars are tied together, and a spacer approximately six centimeters thick is inserted into the middle part. After this, the bars are sent to dry for twenty days. Drying should take place in a cool place.

When the bars are dry, future skis are drawn on them, the excess wood is ground off, and then planed with sherhebel.

To bend the ends, use the following technique. The socks are burned a little, then steamed in boiling water for about an hour. The ends are bent on a special block. The steamed and bent ends are secured directly to the block with strips, ropes or clamps. After this, the skis must be dried in a cool place for six days.

Hunting skis must fully meet the requirements for strength, flexibility, and width. Covering skis with leather taken from the leg of an elk, horse or red deer helps a lot. This kind of hunting skis is called kys or kamus. Experienced hunters have long noticed that a camus made from horse or deer skin has excellent driving characteristics. As for strength, elk camus is unrivaled; in terms of noiselessness and softness of movement, reindeer and wapiti camus are the champion.

A ski with a glued camus becomes much stronger in bending, but does not become much heavier. Before gluing the casing, the skis are covered with two layers of glue, then dried and another layer is applied. After this, you can put a wet skin on the ski, roll it along the growth of the bristles with a roller, squeezing out the excess glue. The camus should be completely level. The next stage is wrapping the ski, which can be done using twine or a bandage. This way the camus is glued to the sides as tightly as possible.

After drying the ski, the twine or bandage is removed, and excess pieces of casing along the edges of the skis are cut off with a blade. As for adhesives for gluing camus, epoxy BF glue is quite suitable, but it is better to use wood glue with the addition of a small amount of acetic acid, which makes the glue water-resistant.

Winter hunting is a fun and interesting activity, but to hunt for prey in the snow you need to have special equipment. The most important element are hunting skis that will help you move comfortably on snow, regardless of its height and terrain. It’s possible to make hunting skis with your own hands, but you need to know the step-by-step algorithm.

Hunting skis differ from ordinary skis in their design - they have a shortened nose and a reinforced middle. Due to this, the resistance of the snow when walking is reduced and durability is ensured.

Can be made of wood or plastic. Their strength is almost the same, but plastic ones are considered more practical, since they do not need to be regularly processed and lubricated. The disadvantage of plastic ones is that they are slippery and are more suitable for sports. This is why they are rarely used by amateurs. Fishermen and hunters choose wooden ones. The latter can be made independently.

Wooden skis come in the following types:

Golitsy are the simplest skis made of wood. They will have to be lubricated with special products before each exit.
Kamus - elk or horse skin is used to create them. The skin is attached from below, and the base is wooden. The design allows you to move quickly through the snow, while on loose surfaces they do not fall through.
Combined. Best value for money and convenience. Only pieces of horse hide are glued to the lower part, which significantly reduces the cost of production.

Materials for making skis and camus

The main material for creating skis is wood. For the camus you will additionally need some skin. The requirements for wood are:

strength;
elasticity;
flexibility;
ease.

Birch, aspen, cork, Manchurian walnut, Amur lilac, willow, and fir trees have such qualities. You can take any of the proposed ones, but it is important that the wood is straight. You can also make hunting skis from plywood yourself, but the plywood needs to be of the highest class.

Similar material is used for camus, but they also require skin. It should be taken from the shin of an elk, horse, deer, or wapiti. There is an elastic pile on the shin area of these animals. With it, movement on snowy slopes and loose snow will be convenient.

Wood harvesting

Before you make skis for hunting, you need to prepare the main material - wood. Wood harvesting is done in winter. During this period, the moisture in it freezes, which makes working with wood easier. Although craftsmen suggest making preparations in August, because at this time the heat has already subsided, and working with wood is more comfortable than at sub-zero temperatures.

Note! The selected tree should have no traces of rot or branches, especially small ones.

You can get high-quality material by following these steps:

Remove the bark.
Saw the deck into boards, thickness 50 mm, length according to the expected length of the snowshoes.
Tie the boards together and insert a spacer in the middle.
Dry for 3 weeks in a cool place.
After drying, apply the contour of the ski and remove excess.

Sizing

Homemade wooden hunting skis must fit in size, for this you need to know how to determine it. To do this, you need to know the weight of the person who will walk on them. The rule works here: 1 kg of weight corresponds to 50 cm² for each ski, the length is no greater than the height of the person for whom it is created.

Calculation example:

The hunter weighs 90 kg, his height is 1.75.
Looking at the formula, the ski area for it is 4500 cm².
Skis for a hunter should be 1.7 m long and 26 cm wide. If you plan to travel on the plain, then the length can be slightly longer, for mountains - shorter.

Another sizing option does not involve calculations. More specifically:

install the skis with their toes up, their length does not exceed the height of the arm extended forward;
width is the distance between the index finger and thumb;
thickness is the distance between the ring and middle finger of the hand at maximum spread, this parameter will need to be adjusted to flat areas up to 8 mm, at the bend 5 mm.

Bending

You need to make 2 bends: front and back. On initial stage Wood can be bent by heating, firing and steaming. After this, each is placed in a special bending machine. It is necessary to ensure that there is no distortion, otherwise the material will be damaged.

Steaming is convenient to carry out when the ski is already secured in the machine. This will help you get the best result. You need to cool it in the cold, but this can only be done after successful bending. When the material has completely cooled down necessary conditions, it is necessary to inspect for distortions; if there are any, then the skis will move incorrectly.

Marking holes for fastening straps

The next stage in the technology for creating homemade skis is marking the holes for the fastening that secures the leg. Stages:

Place the ski on its edge and lift it in the place where the leg will be fixed.
The ski will stand at an angle of 45⁰ to the floor, the nose is raised up.
Place a mark at the point at which the ski reaches the indicated position and draw a line across it across the width.
Draw another parallel line, retreating 4 cm from the first mark towards the bow.
Find the middle on both lines and place your fist so that it is located in the middle of the central marks.
Make marks where the fist corresponds to the lines drawn earlier. These 4 points will be the holes for fastening.

All that remains is to burn the marked holes and connect them with deep grooves. They are needed for tightly laying belts in a homemade product.

Making kamus

If you decide to make a kamus, then the next step is preparing the skin. Steps:

Remove any remaining fat and meat from the skin.
Stretch dry it.
Cut the camus to the size of the ski with a margin of 1-2 cm for the turn.
Soak the skins in water.
Fold the fuzzy edges towards each other.
Sew with strong thread.
Dry. When gluing, the camus may be slightly damp.

Gluing

After drying, the camus needs to be glued, this should be done carefully, because it is this part that prevents it from slipping on the snow. For gluing, you can use epoxy or wood glue. You can make a fairly high-quality adhesive composition on your own. For this you will need fish skin. Manufacturing process:

you need spawned chum or catfish;
Remove skin from fish, remove scales and fat, soak in water;
after soaking the leather, roll it onto a wooden stick and wrap it in a cloth soaked in water;
hang over the stove or coals;
steam until you get thick gluten.

When gluing, the composition is first applied to the camus. The first layer is allowed to dry, then the second is applied. Next, the kamus is applied to a wooden blank and pressed. It is convenient to roll the product at home with a roller. This must be done until the skin is completely smooth.

To record the result of the work, you should wrap the camus with a bandage - this guarantees a strong grip on the sides. All that remains is to dry it in a cool room with good ventilation.

Ski racks

It is correct to use elk leather belts as fasteners; they should be pre-fried and smoked. The belts are fixed in the holes that were prepared in advance. Screws are used for this.

Advice! For such purposes, you cannot use hard leather. You shouldn't do this because it creaks when negative temperatures, which will make hunting problematic.

Making a ski pole

A ski pole is a must. It is made from the same type of wood as the ski. Its design contains the necessary devices for a hunter:

a claw and a ring - they will make walking on fragile ice safe;
shovel - it is convenient to clear snow with its help;
a measure to determine the depth of the snow; for this you will need to make marks along the length every 5 cm.

Storage

Skis are used only in winter. The key to long-term use is proper storage. This applies to both factory and homemade models. Rules:

Connect with each other.
Hang on a hook or nail.
The room should have normal humidity and ventilation.
It must be placed so that no water gets into the fasteners.

Advice! If the fasteners are loose, then you need to unscrew the screws and fill them with epoxy glue, then put the screws in place. Skis must be checked before each use.

The production of hunting skis is a feasible task, but it requires a lot of time and patience. Their quality is affected by the choice of material and the correct implementation of all the above manufacturing steps.

11/13/2013 | Skis for hunting - how to make skis and snowshoes yourself

If anyone is not yet accustomed to the variety of models of skis and snowshoes that exist at all hunting exhibitions and still claim that self-made is always better (well, or maybe they deliberately do not want to live with everything ready-made or do not have the desire to means), he can once again familiarize himself with time-tested descriptions of the design of classic hunting skis and snowshoes.

Skis are of great importance for a hunter. They must be strong, light, elastic, have the correct movement and the ability to hold the hunter on the surface of the snow cover. In areas with deep snow, they are necessary. Good quality skis can be made by choosing a rational design and type of ski. Spruce, aspen, ash, rowan, and maple are used to make skis. The wood must be straight-grained, without rot and without through (“moving”) branches. You need to take the butt part. Cut the ridge about 2 m long. Harvesting can be done at any time of the year, but it is preferable at the end of summer.

First, the blocks are knocked out. Plates 30-40 mm thick are hewn out of them, and skis are made from the plates. To prevent your skis from slipping in the future, you need to plan them strictly in layers.

The size of the skis must correspond to the height and weight of the hunter; it also depends on snow cover. In loose snow, per 1 kg of hunter’s weight there should be 50 cm2 of support area. With harder snow cover, the area can be reduced to 40-45 cm2. Skis are usually made no higher than the height of the hunter and no lower than his shoulders. But most people prefer short skis, slightly below the shoulder, as they are more maneuverable in the bushes and more comfortable on climbs. The width (in the middle part of the ski) is taken equal to the distance between the thumb and index (or middle) fingers of the hand, that is, 180-220 mm. To prevent skis from scooping up snow, their width at the toe should be 30-40 mm greater than the width at the heel. The thickness under the foot, under the cargo area, is taken on average 11-14 mm. This is for skis glued with camus. For regular skis, this size needs to be increased by 3-5 mm. At the front end, the thickness of the skis is increased to 5-8 mm, at the front bend 3-7 mm, at the rear 2-6 mm (the dimensions and contour of the skis are shown in Fig. 1). A hole Ø 6-8 mm is drilled at the front end of the skis. It is useful for transporting and converting skis into sleds.

Rice. 1 Hunting skis. Dimensions in mm. A - top view, B - side view. The numbers circled (5.3-5, etc.) refer to skis with camus, the numbers without a circle (8.4-7, etc.) refer to regular skis.

Ski bending is done in a machine. It is shown in Fig. 2. Both skis are slightly heated over the fire and tucked into the machine, giving them a arch. In this case, you need to carefully ensure that the bend is correct, since if it is skewed, there will be no normal movement. The skis tucked into the machine must be steamed with boiling water, and then heated strongly over the stove, and then taken out into the cold.

Rice. 2 Skis in the machine. The board (1) is inserted into the machine after bending the ends of the skis.

You can bend the ends of the skis by first making a transverse cut 1 mm thick. Before bending, it is coated with glue and a veneer insert cut to the shape of the end of the ski is inserted inside (Fig. 3).

Rice. 3 Insert into the toe of the ski.

When the skis have cooled, they are removed from the machine, inspected and the bindings begin to be marked. The bindings are installed in such a way that the back of the ski when walking gives a greater draft than the front. To do this, find the center of gravity of the ski, mark it with a line perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the ski, then retreat 30-40 mm towards the toe and draw a line parallel to the first. This will be the toe line, that is, the line where the fastening begins. Standard semi-rigid fastenings can be used.

Before installing the bindings, the skis are treated, tarred or waxed (paraffin). The heated ski is poured with wax (paraffin) and rubbed. If the wax hardens on the ski, it is heated again and so on until the wood is saturated. It is advisable to coat the upper part with oil-resin varnish.

In places where you often have to climb steep slopes, they use camo skis. Camus is the skin removed from the lower part of the leg of an elk, wapiti, reindeer, horse; seal skin can also be used as a camus. The camus is glued to the bottom of the skis and it is made flexible and at the same time more durable, resistant to wet snow, which does not stick to them.

The manufacturing technology of these skis is the same as conventional skis, only the thickness is reduced.

Rice. 4 Placing the camus plates on the bottom plane of the ski.

Rice. 5 Bend the casing onto the ski: 1 - ski, 2 - casing.

The soaked kamus plates are selected so that their shaggy edges lie towards the middle of the sliding surface, and their smoother edges lie towards the sides (Fig. 4). Then they are sewn together with nylon threads. The size of the camus should be slightly larger than the size of the ski (allowing for bending; see Fig. 5).

To glue the camus, you can use BF glue or epoxy-based glue, but wood glue with a small addition of acetic acid is preferable (it makes the glue water-resistant). A casing is applied to the ski lubricated with glue, after which it must immediately be rolled with a roller in the direction of the hair until the excess glue comes out and the casing is completely flattened. Then the ski is wrapped with a bandage or braid so that the skin on the sides adheres well and does not warp.

If you have to hunt in mountainous areas or hilly areas, and you don’t have a camus, you can make a simple stop, which is shown in Fig. 6. I choose its width according to the width of the ski. It is advisable to make the stop from non-ferrous metal. If necessary, it can always be folded back onto the ski. You can use standard canopies by sawing out the teeth. The canopy hinge needs to be regularly lubricated and maintained to ensure it does not become clogged or rusty.

Rice. 6 Support for a regular ski. Dimensions in mm. 1 — ski, 2 — movable part of the stop.

Microporous rubber is glued under the foot, on the cargo area. By compressing and unclenching, it prevents the snow from compacting under your feet.

Came skis should not be brought into the winter warm room. Skis should be stored tied in pairs on spacers, suspended in a dry, ventilated place.

Onishchenko V.

Canadian skis

The most convenient for a hunter are considered to be skis of the usual sliding type, of relatively short length, much wider than sports skis, with a strongly curved toe. The underside of the ski is sometimes lined with elk or deer skin taken from the animal's legs. This is done to make it easier to climb uphill, because... upholstery hair prevents the ski from sliding back; Such upholstery makes the ski more comfortable, but heavier both in weight and in travel.

Currently, interest is awakening in non-slip skis, which are not common and little known in our country. The most advanced type of such skis are the skis of the Indians of northern America, known as “Canadian”. They are an elongated wooden hoop intertwined with a mesh of straps. You cannot slide on such skis, but you must walk, raising your legs, as when walking normally.

In order to give an idea of the shape and size of skis, I give a drawing depicting a ski. The dimensions are based on the measurements of the skis currently in my possession. Judging by the stamp, they were made in the North American United States and are called "Maine model 12 x 48 No. 70". 12x48 - ski dimensions (width-length) in inches (inch = 2.54 cm).

Rice. 7 "a" and "b" - front and rear wooden crossbars. "o" - hole in the mesh.

The space occupied by the leg is shaded. The bottom picture shows how a ski is attached to a leg.

The ski rim and crossbars are apparently made of ash. The rim has a section of 7/8x3/4 inches, its ends, forming the tail, are connected by rivets. The mesh is woven from “pulled” cheese-mint straps, coated, apparently, to protect them from getting wet in wet weather, with varnish, just like the wooden parts. The mesh holes are so large that it is difficult for a finger to fit through them.

The ski is tied to the leg with straps, and the leg is positioned on the ski so that its tip is above the hole “O”, without touching the front crossbar “a”. This is necessary to make walking easier. As the ski moves forward, the heel is lifted from the ski, and the toe is slightly lowered into the hole “O”, so that the ski comes into contact with the sole of the foot only by a thick twisted belt that passes directly behind the hole “O” and serves as the main support for it when lowering the leg. This method of tying skis allows you to walk at a normal pace without raising your legs too high. When you lift your leg, the tip of the ski, being lighter, rises upward, and the heavier tail drags along the snow, preventing the ski from spinning on your leg.

There are two straps for tying skis. One regular one, covering the toe of the foot, is passed through the mesh cells closest to the hole “O”, and the other, passed through the same cells, covers the back one. To prevent this belt from slipping, another strap is attached to it, passing through the instep of the leg.

Fans of Canadian skis tested their suitability for various purposes. It turned out that these skis are very convenient in cases where it is not required fast walk, since the walking speed on them is equal to the normal walking speed. With skill, you can run, thereby increasing your speed somewhat.

These skis are more convenient than skis in rough and forest terrain, because... make it possible to climb, descend and, if desired, stop on steep slopes. In the forest, due to their short length, they allow them to pass freely between trees and bushes. Turns on such skis are made very quickly, easily and almost in one place.

On such skis, due to their agility, small size and the uselessness of poles, due to which your hands are free all the time, you can perform various works. I know that they were successfully used when measuring and counting forests, when installing snow shields along the railway line, etc.

The advantages of Canadian skis include their low weight: the pair I have weighs 2.25 kg with straps. When skis are not needed, you can tie them up and throw them over your shoulder. Being light in weight and length, they do not interfere with walking at all.

In snow, even loose snow, this ski almost does not sink; the snow is pressed down by the net and almost does not fall on the ski, it does not pack under the foot, interfering with walking.

The disadvantages of skis include their weakness in those places where the crossbars are drilled into the rim. This place needs to be strengthened. Almost all ski breakdowns occurred precisely in the places where the crossbar was fastened to the rim, but it should be noted that in most cases the skis broke in shallow snow, when rocks were touched, etc., i.e. under conditions that are generally unsuitable for any skis.

A big drawback is the lack of literature about Canadian skiing in Russian. To disseminate them, it is necessary to study the question of the types of skis suitable for certain purposes, because There are several types of Canadian skis, differing in small details from each other (for example, there are skis without a tail). It is necessary to find out the most suitable wood species for skiing; processing of mesh straps so that they are stronger, do not get wet and do not stretch; find out the most practical way attaching the ski to the leg, because there are small but perhaps important differences.

All this has probably been known for a long time in America, but for us, due to the lack of literature, it sometimes presents small but annoying ambiguities, the resolution of which must be resolved through experience.

Test site

In the spring, as soon as the weather gets warmer, outlandish structures appear on rivers and ponds next to ordinary rowing and motor boats, which, with the general revival of the fans gathered on the shore, either immediately appear, /.for they proudly carry their author and creator “across the water, like dry land."

To all catamarans, bicycles on floats, aquaplanes and aquapsadas today we add real water skis, invented, built and tested by Volodya Senichev from the village of Negina, Suzemsky district, Bryansk region.

Volodya has already received about seven hundred letters with requests to send drawings of skis. Not being able to breed so many bluegills, he asked us to do it.

WATER E LYNG1

I made two versions of water skis and two versions of poles for them. I also made a sail like the wings of a bat, which is attached to the back. If you open it in a light breeze, you can swim without pushing off! ami from water.

The skis are a frame made of square spruce slats and plywood partitions - ribs. The ski is covered with polyethylene film 0.5 mm thick. Each ski is 3.6 m long, 200 m wide, 150 mm high, weighs 4 kg, and has a load capacity of 90 kg. The front end of the ski is beveled at the bottom and sides for 900 mm. Where the leg is inserted, there is a 100 mm high ring shield covered with film to prevent water from rushing inside. The rubber fasteners for the legs are nailed at the toe to a piece of plywood that serves as the bottom of the ski in this place. The bindings are made from fins cut to fit the width of the bottom. You can also put beach shoes

winter shoes. A piece of plywood is nailed to the slats with small nails.

Plywood partitions-ribs give the ski rigidity. I put 36 of these ribs on the ski - towards the middle of the ski they are located more often and in thicker packages. They are nailed to the slats with small nails.

The slats that are bent where the nasal bevel begins need to be filed a little with a hacksaw so that they do not break when bent.

In the tail and nose parts, four painted plywood keels are attached to the bottom of the ski oil paint so as not to get wet. They help you guide your skis in the water, but they make it difficult to enter the water from the shore and get out of the water. Therefore, you don’t have to do them.

The most important part of the ski is three transverse valve plates, 100 mm long, made of duralumin with a rubber pad glued to it. The trim is nailed to the bottom slats. When the ski moves forward, the valve

We press against the bottom of the ski, and when the leg moves back, they move away, prevent the ski from sliding back, and the skier moves forward. Nylon laces prevent the valves from moving further than vertical, and thick rubber transverse strips nailed to the bottom prevent the valves from sticking to it.

Before fitting the slats, they should be cleaned and rounded with a knife or a piece of glass. Then, in the places where the plastic film will be nailed, you need to lay strips of rubber cut from an old car inner tube. The film is stretched starting from the bottom and nailed with small nails. Place thumbtacks under the caps to prevent them from tearing the film. A layer of oil paint or varnish will protect these buttons from rust. On the bottom, the layer of film can be made double.

After fitting, begin attaching the keels, flaps, strips under them and the top shields.

The second ski model I recently completed is made from duralumin sewing plates. In cross-section they have the shape of a thick letter T and are very stable. The weight of each ski increased to 5 kg, the load capacity remained the same, but the skis became stronger, and I was able to install valves on the side walls of the skis.

The ring shield now reaches to the very bottom and seals the internal cavities of the skis, so that they are completely unsinkable.

Skiing on water requires training, but it is no more difficult than learning to walk on snow. First, you can learn to ski on skis attached together into a catamaran. The skis are fastened with one strap at the front and two at the back; The slats are tied with pieces of cord that were previously nailed to the skis.

My ski poles are 1.6 m long, with triangular plywood blades nailed to their ends, and inflated volleyball floats are tied to the blades. An athlete from Kharkov, candidate of technical sciences G. Waltz, proposed another version of ski poles - with duralumin blades on hinges. When the stick goes down, the blades diverge by 180°, and when you take it out of the water, they fold to an angle of 30°. I haven't had time to try this design yet.

A SENICHEV

zhurnalko.net

Oddly enough, but even in our oversaturated goods, it seems that for every taste, times, sometimes there arises that same “difsyt”, according to Arkady Raikin. Mainly, of course, from the focus of the assortment of our provincial stores on consumer goods. Sometimes, the necessary thing may be somewhere, but to be convinced of this, you will have to make a painful walk through all the city shops. Sometimes you just don’t want to go to the city, in a word, sometimes it’s really profitable to do the right thing yourself. Just like in the days of subsistence farming.

The backstory is this - we live on the outskirts of a small village, on the outskirts. And the problem of getting to the “mainland”, to people, sometimes looms large in winter.
the forest, again, sometimes you need to go and just go for a ride. There are no clear ski slopes here or there. More often, deep, loose snow. For such purposes, wide hunting skis were purchased. It’s quite difficult to walk on them without poles, without padding with kamus, and, alas, there were no poles with large rounds to prevent them from falling into the loose snow in the stores. More and more, with some kind of misunderstood snouts at the ends, for heavily trampled snow. However, a solution was found and it was very much to my taste. Make it from what you have on hand.

The material for the stick itself is precisely a wooden stick; fortunately, the forest is nearby; you just need to take care of this in advance so that the blanks dry out.

There were two options for the design of the ring-stop - a wooden one, sawn and a wire outer ring with canvas tape-knitting needles. The latest design is borrowed from a factory product. In the end, he stopped at a tree.

But it’s simple and sufficient reliable design the bottom knot - where the support on the snow is attached to the stick, was not given. A movable connection was required, transmitting a fair amount of force. In factory products, this unit is quite simple - other materials (metal) are used there. This design will not work for wood - it will result in a weak spot that will probably break at the most inopportune moment. After thinking about it, I got the structure shown in the photo, which has been faithfully serving for many years. Rings made of eight-millimeter plywood (strength-weight compromise) are placed on the stick with a hole slightly larger than the “seat”, thus achieving mobility of the stop relative to the stick.
Activity shows that with normal skiing, this is enough. The “freedom” of the stop is limited by rope winding impregnated with varnish. It is wrapped with thin twine, a kind of slide, then carefully, in several stages, it is impregnated with thick varnish. After drying, a very strong thickening is obtained, which serves as a stop for the ring. To prevent the force from the leaning skier from destroying the knot, the stick should be selected in advance with a knot in the lower part and the upper winding should be “leaned” against it.

Sticks can be sawed and cut from different types of wood - juniper will make very light ones, bird cherry will make strong ones.

What was needed for the job.

Tools.
An axe, a hacksaw for wood, a convenient sharp knife. To make a plywood ring, you needed a wood jigsaw with files and accessories - a stand for cutting dovetails, clamps. Marking tool – ruler, pencil, compass. An awl, something for drilling holes, a drill.

Materials.
Blanks of sticks from the forest, rope - twine for fixing the stop ring, nylon cord for loops on the hands. To impregnate the plywood ring, you needed dishes, thin wire, a piece of foil, and a suitable varnish. Sanding paper, preferably coarse.

Here, the sticks were cut from the willow tree in the nearby ravine. You just need to choose ones that are long enough and relatively even. Practice has shown their sufficient strength, in addition, such sticks turned out to be very light after drying. The tree itself, or rather a huge bush, grows very quickly in the presence of moisture and is not rare or extremely valuable, although in the spring it is practically the first powerful honey plant. It is recommended to harvest wood in winter, when there is no sap flow from the tree.

The preparation of such pieces of wood is always carried out in advance, in fact, on any foray into the forest, we take with us a small hatchet and a hacksaw - a beautiful piece of driftwood or something else to bring. The pores on the ends of the pieces of wood are blocked (paint, varnish, drying oil, garden varnish, film) and it would be good to debark it - remove the bark, this will prevent woodworms from settling under it. It is better to tie long sticks into a bundle, they will be straighter. We put it somewhere in the attic, in a year or two, we can use it. Yes, when selecting suitable sticks, do not forget about the knot at the end of the branch, this is a future support that significantly increases the survivability of the structure. By the way, it was not difficult to pick up such branches from the willow tree.

Let's start making the lower support ring. Its outline is drawn on a suitable piece of plywood 8mm thick. The dimensions for an adult weighing under 90 kilos are chosen as follows: the outer ring is 130mm in diameter, the next one is 105mm, the penultimate one is 40mm, and finally, the diameter of the hole for the stick is about 20mm and directly depends on the diameter of our stick blank near the bottom knot. The seat diameter on the plywood ring should be made somewhat larger, by a few millimeters. The width of each “spoke” is 20mm. Dimensions are a compromise between weight and strength. Yes, I made the support smaller for the child.

I drilled a small hole in the corner of each opening and sawed out everything unnecessary with a regular, “pioneer” jigsaw for wood. After sanding, the support ring blank was soaked in hot varnish - I selected a canned food jar of suitable diameter, it seemed to fit well with stewed meat, I tied the wooden blanks with thin copper wire so that it would be easier to pull out later, I put a nail on the bottom of the jar so that the blank was slightly raised above the bottom and the varnish had unhindered access to every point of the piece of wood, put one blank, another nail, another blank. The varnish was poured - “Yacht” it is presented as very resistant to any water and, in general, all atmospheric factors. The open neck of the jar was covered with aluminum foil so that the varnish evaporated less and the jar was placed on the stove in a place that was well warm but not too hot so that it would not boil, for a couple of days. Afterwards, the blanks were hung by wire tails over the same jar so that excess varnish would drain off. During “boiling”, a lot of volatiles evaporate from the varnish, it becomes much thicker. The layer on the surface can be significant; local sagging and smudges are quite acceptable.

Generally speaking, this kind of impregnation is best done under vacuum - a certain porous workpiece is placed under a layer of liquid impregnation and the air is pumped out of the vessel as much as possible, the air from the pores of the workpiece expands and creeps out, and liquid flows in its place, better heated - less viscosity .

The stick is cut to the required length, focusing on the knot. By the way, the length of ski poles is selected based on the height of the skier - minus 25...30cm. This is for a “classic” move, but the other on loose snow and on hunting skis will not work even if you want to. Twine is wound under the cut knot (to hold the rope winding, but not interfere with the plywood ring). The support ring is tried on, and at the same time it can be used to “compact” the winding somewhat.

We put on the ring and fix it with another winding of twine, then, in several stages, with intermediate drying, we impregnate the windings with varnish. I tried to sharpen the end of the stick, but there was no particular point in it - they are designed for relatively loose snow and cope with it perfectly, but we don’t have any knurled trails or slopes. The stick itself was not treated with any impregnations or varnishes; four years of operation showed sufficient durability of the structure, even in wet snow in the spring and during thaws. During this time, there was only one breakdown - the plywood stop ring came off. The rope winding could not stand it - in the wet, very deep snow, the stick sank very deeply and I tried to pull it out along with the accumulated wet snow. After some simple repairs, the stick was back in action.

Holes are drilled at the upper ends of the sticks and simple loops for hands are made from nylon lace.

Three pairs of sticks of this kind were made - for myself, my wife and my daughter. Use over four winters (admittedly, not particularly intensive) did not reveal significant shortcomings. The advantages of the design, in addition to the low cost and availability of materials, include maintainability in camping, field conditions- All you need is a knife and a rope. How to repair sleds.

usamodelkina.ru

You can make water skis yourself. This requires a pair of dry pine or spruce boards, the dimensions of which depend on the weight of the skier and are shown in the table. The boards must be unwarped, straight-layered, without large knots and have approximately the same weight.

The first operation of making skis is cutting according to the template (Fig. 1). Then the resulting blanks are cleanly planed on both sides and marked.

RICE. 1. WATER SKIS AND THEIR TEMPLATES: 1 - recreational skis; 2 - jumping skis: A - toe covered with fiberglass; B - dowels (bamboo, oak or ash); B - toe part of the fastening (rubber 4 mm): D - heel part of the fastening (rubber 5 mm); D - nuts securing the heel part of the mount; E - keel (fin) made of oak or ash is secured with screws (M5x50 mm with glue); F - base of the heel part of the fastening (dural 2-3 mm); Z - “horseshoe” that secures the rubber of the heel to the base.

After this, the workpiece is clamped at the temples, as shown in Figure 2a, and a longitudinal cut is made in its bow part. For 1-2 hours, the workpiece is steamed in boiling water and, steamed, is fixed in a special device made from an ordinary stepladder (Fig. 2b). She is kept in this position for several days at room temperature. In summer you can dry it outside, but not in the sun, otherwise the workpiece will crack. To speed up drying, you need to insert a piece of burlap or some other coarse fabric into the cut before pressing. The fabric, like a wick, will help draw moisture out of the cut.

When the workpiece has dried well, take it out and begin gluing the sock. It is best to use some kind of resin glue for this, for example VIAM, or epoxy resin. In extreme cases, you can use casein glue. Glue is poured into the cut. Then a plywood insert coated with glue on both sides is inserted into it. When the glue spreads along the seam, the workpiece is again clamped in the same device where it was dried after steaming. The bend should be fixed immediately with screws and wooden dowels using glue. Dowels are wooden nails with a diameter of 6-8 mm. For them, skis are drilled in the toe through holes, as shown in Figure 2c, after which glue is poured into each hole and a dowel coated with glue is carefully driven in. Having hammered in all the dowels, the ski is left in the device until completely dry.
After this, the ski is processed on all sides with a plane, rasp and sandpaper. To prevent the ski from splitting, its nose part is covered with fiberglass with epoxy resin or, if these materials are not available, with a cloth with BF-2 glue. For the same purpose, it is necessary to hammer 8-10 oak or ash dowels into the ski from the sides (Fig. 2,d), the length of which should be 10-15 mm more than half the width of the ski in that place. Dowels are made from straight-layer wood, their diameter is 7-8 mm. The holes for them are drilled to the full length of the dowel and lubricated with glue before driving.
The ends of the dowels are processed flush with the surface of the ski.
Now you can install the keels (fins) and start painting. The coloring technology depends on what paints the athlete has. If these are oil paints, the ski should first be soaked twice with hot drying oil, drying it thoroughly after each coating. If you decide to paint with glypthal dyes or nitro paints, then the skis should first be coated with primer No. 138. The advantages of nitro coating are that it dries faster and looks better.
It is recommended to paint skis with bright, contrasting colors, for example, the top is white with black stripes, the bottom is red with white stripes. This will make it easier to find skis in the water.
The fastening is installed as shown in Figure 2d, using screws or M6 through bolts. The bolt heads on the sliding surface of the ski must be recessed and puttied. If there are no ready-made fasteners, you will have to make them yourself. The simplest fastening is made from old rubber boots or ladies' shoes without heels. The top is cut off, and the remaining part (“galoshes”) is screwed to the ski with screws through a wooden or metal plate. More convenient fastenings are shown in Figure 2, d (templates see Figure 1). To make them, you will need a piece of sheet duralumin 2 mm thick and trimmings of a rubber inner tube from a truck 3-5 mm thick.
The bindings consist of two parts - toe and heel. The toe part is fixed on the ski, and the heel part can move back and forth depending on the size of the foot. To fix the heel part, use a bolt with an ordinary or round nut.
Skis made from boards are much better than those made from glued together. sheet plywood. In addition, they are lighter, have better buoyancy and are much cheaper. Caring for them is easy. Unlike skis that are used on snow, water skis do not require any lubrication. After use, they should be wiped dry and inserted into the spacers. Water skis should be stored in the same spacers when they are not in use (for example, in winter).
Scratches, nicks and cracks that may appear on the skis during use should be repaired immediately, after which the damaged areas should be touched up.

G. Malinovsky
Source: MK 1966

mir-samodelok.ru

Water ski design

First, let's look at the design of water skis. Each of them is a long frame, which consists of square profile slats and plywood partitions. Top in homemade version This design is covered with plastic film to create negative buoyancy due to the air inside. The thickness of such a film does not exceed 0.5 mm. The place where the foot will be installed is equipped with a ring shield, also wrapped in polyethylene. This is necessary to prevent water from rushing inside the skis. Plywood partitions serve as stiffening ribs and strengthen the structure of the skis, and the slats must always be sawed with a hacksaw where the nose bevel goes - otherwise they will break during bending.

If desired, you can make water skis from duralumin plates - although this will increase the weight of the set to about 10 kg, the load capacity will remain the same, but the strength of the product will increase many times over. Ski poles are selected based on individual parameters each person, but they rarely exceed 1.6 meters.

By the way, if you doubt that you can successfully ski on what you created with your own hands, then don’t worry: walking on them on water is no more difficult than on regular skis on snow. Some beginners are trained on special training water skis, which are fastened together, and when they switch to regular ones, they find that they are very easy to walk on.

Creation of water skis

In order to make water skis yourself, you need to prepare pine or spruce slats with a square profile. The main thing is to choose them of approximately the same size and without defects in the form of knots; the structure should be straight-layered. The dimensions of the slats are selected according to the weight of the owner; to select them, you can use the following table:

Having decided on the dimensions, you need to find a suitable template according to which they will need to be cut. Fortunately, there are plenty of them on Internet resources and finding them will not be difficult. After trimming, you need to cleanly plan these blanks for future water skis.

The next operation is to clamp the workpieces in a vice and make a longitudinal cut in the bow. After this is done, a very important moment comes - preparing the product for bending. To do this, you need to keep them in boiling water for about two hours and after it has steamed thoroughly, you need to place it in a special homemade template, which can be made even from a simple stepladder. So it should lie for several days. If you work in the summer, you can dry it outside, but under no circumstances in the sun, otherwise the wood will crack. In order to speed up the drying process, you can place a piece of coarse cloth in the cut, which will act as a wick and draw out moisture.

After all the moisture has left the workpiece, it is removed from the template and the sock is sealed. For this, resin glue or epoxy resin is best suited, which needs to be poured into the cut and then a plywood insert coated with glue should be installed there. You need to wait until the glue fills all the seams, install it in the template in which the water skis were given a bend during drying, and fix the bends with screws and dowels made of wood, lubricated with glue, whose diameter is 8 mm. For them, you first need to make through holes and, having driven in these wooden nails, leave the skis until completely dry.

After drying, you need to clean the entire surface using a plane, rasp and sandpaper. In order to avoid splitting, the bow part is sealed with fiberglass. It is best to use epoxy as a binder or, as a last resort, BF-2 glue. As additional safety measures, it is necessary to make and hammer dowels on the sides of the water skis, the dimensions of which are calculated as follows: 10–15 mm is added to half the width of the reinforced area, and the diameter is turned out around 7–8 mm. Before driving the dowel, a hole that is drilled to its full length wooden nail, generously lubricated with glue. After the binder has dried, the ends of the dowels are carefully cleaned.

Next, you can manufacture and install the keels according to the chosen design. One of the best materials for this is a cutting board, which makes excellent stabilizers. Once the keels are in place, the ring guards are glued on and the fastenings are installed. If you have ready-made fastenings, then it is best to install them using through bolts, whose heads should then be recessed into the body of the skis and putty. If there are no fastenings, then the simplest ones can be made yourself from old rubber boots or women's boots. The top is cut off, and the galosh itself is attached to the water ski through a metal or wooden plate.

More complex models of fastenings are made from duralumin plates 2 mm thick and pieces of rubber truck wheel inner tube 3–5 mm thick. They themselves have two parts, the toe and heel, the first of which is fixedly attached, and the second can be adjusted by moving back and forth. The appropriate size is fixed with a small bolt.

All that remains is to paint and start walking on the water. The paint used plays an important role in this process. Best choice There will be a nitro coating, since it is the fastest drying, and it looks very good. But if you decide to use nitro paint or glypthal dye, then you should first coat the water skis with a primer. In general, you can paint with anything - even oil paints. In this case, the surface must first be soaked twice with drying oil, drying it thoroughly after each application.

Ski colors should be bright and contrasting - for example, alternating red, black and white stripes. This is done so that if lost, they can be easily found.

Water ski poles are made quite simply: you will need two long cylindrical poles and two large pieces of foam from which large balls are cut. Next, they are attached to sticks using waterproof glue at a distance of 7–10 cm from the end.

It is worth remembering that skis that were made from wooden slats are much better than those that can be obtained from plywood. They are lighter, have improved buoyancy, and are cheaper. Special care they do not require, there is no need to lubricate them - just dry and store in spacers, and not only in the summer after walks, but throughout the cold season. Any crack that appears during use must be puttied and painted over, otherwise the water skis will not last long.

Conclusion

As you can see, there is nothing particularly complicated in the process of making water skis. Although the resulting product will be aesthetically inferior to the purchased model, it will work no worse than it, and the price will be significantly lower. Therefore, be patient and have some tools, and soon you will have a wonderful tool for practicing in your home. active look recreation.

aktsport.ru

Ski lovers will certainly be interested in the opportunity to practice their favorite sport in the summer. Water skis can be made quite easily (Fig. 46). They are hollow wooden floats, which consist of a transverse set of frames and plywood sheathing. In the middle of the floats there are soft, easily removable fastenings. On both sides of each float there are stopper curtains - fins. When the ski moves forward, the curtains fold, and when the ski moves backwards, they open, creating a large hydrodynamic resistance, and thereby allowing “to produce a push when moving forward.

The poles are the same design as regular skis, but instead of rings there is a foam ball. This design of the poles allows you to maintain balance on the water.
The installation sites for ski bindings are significantly lowered in order to shift the center of gravity as low as possible and thereby improve the stability of the skis on the water.
The skis have a rectangular shape in plan, chosen for ease of manufacture. Skis can be improved by giving them a more streamlined shape. This is a matter of taste and capabilities of amateurs. To make skis, you will need plywood (preferably waterproof) 4-12 mm thick for sheathing, boards 20-30 mm thick for frames, sheet rubber 3-4 mm thick for fastenings and curtains, and foam plastic for float poles. If you have in sufficient quantity polystyrene foam, then it is easier to glue skis with a solid foam filling, gluing a board in the middle for rigidity and installation of fastenings.

The frames are made from 20 mm thick boards; it is advisable to use light wood, such as linden, spruce, etc. The bow bosses are made from 30 mm thick bars, the sides of the floats are made from 12 mm thick plywood. The bottom and formwork are made of plywood 4 and 6 mm thick, and the fastening grips are made of sheet rubber 3 mm thick. The pattern of the blanks is shown in Fig. 46.1.

To install the fastenings, you will need plates made of sheet duralumin 2-3 mm thick: an adjustment plate with slots for securing the counter and metal linings for securing the toe and edging of the counter. The slots in the heel plate are made for adjusting bolts with wing nuts, which are rigidly sealed on the ski frame.
Assemble the skis in the following sequence: first assemble the sides with frames, and then adjust the bottom skin and formwork. Before assembly, it is necessary to secure the adjusting bolts and the soft fastening toe to the formwork. Sealing of bolts is shown in Fig. 46, 3. The toe is attached with overlays to the formwork with six bolts or rivets with a diameter of 3-4 mm.
The rubber of the counter is riveted to the plate with aluminum rivets 3-4 mm in diameter with a flush head. The stick ball is glued from polystyrene foam using BF-2, AK-20 or “88” glue. The ball is attached to ordinary ski poles between two washers using cotter pins. Brake curtains are hung on wire axles, which must rotate freely in brackets. The axles and brackets are made of galvanized steel wire with a diameter of 2.5-3.5 mm. The halyard for locking the curtain in the open position is made of fishing line 0.8-1 mm thick. Skis are assembled using AK-20 or VIAM-B/3 glue.
The formwork and bottom are fastened to the frame from the middle to the edges with screws in increments of 50 mm. It is advisable to use galvanized or tinned screws for this purpose. To ensure watertightness, try to fit the joined parts with minimal gaps. As a last resort, assembly can be done

using thickly rubbed oil paint, which dries to form a durable waterproof layer. Thoroughly soak all parts inside and out with heated drying oil. This will prevent parts from swelling during operation. The outside corners of the joined parts can be covered with percale using AK-20 glue. And finally, the final operation is painting. It is best to paint skis with oil paint, preferably in bright colors, such as lead orange.

“100 works for skillful hands”

This entry was posted on Thursday, August 2nd, 2012 at 17:06 and is under filed Ideas, Crafts. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed.

domovenok.kz

Start in this article. The quality of skis is determined mainly by the quality of the chosen material.

A “block” for gluing skis can be made from 10-12 inch-thick boards, well dried to avoid warping. The boards are fastened evenly along the length and width with bolts 22-27 cm long, so that in the future the bolts do not interfere when filing the workpiece along the longitudinal profile of the ski, as shown in Fig. 1. If there are no long bolts, then the boards can be assembled using casein glue or nails, gradually increasing the required width. The workpiece is filed with a reserve, after which it is stitched to the exact dimensions.

There are two possible types of “blocks” for assembling skis: convex (Fig. 1, a) and concave (Fig. 1.6). The production of the second one is more labor-intensive, so it is used less often.

Heavier beech, ash, oak, which have the same properties, but have a density of 0.71, respectively; 0.72; 0.75 g/cm 3 can be recommended for slalom monoskis. These species, as well as more valuable ones such as hornbeam and hickory, can be used for jumping skis.

The indicated densities are given for wood with an absolute humidity of 15%, which can be obtained by natural drying of the material for 6-12 months. Reducing this period due to increased temperature can lead to cracks, warping of wood, etc. The use of material with high humidity will cause deformation of the finished skis (Fig. 2).

Cross-layered, knotty wood is not suitable for making skis.

Water skis of any type can be made from aircraft birch plywood with a thickness of 1-5 mm and a density of 0.69 g/cm 3 . Waterproof alder plywood of the FSF brand with a density of 0.55 g/cm3 is suitable for figure skis, and beech plywood with a density of 0.73 g/cm3 is suitable for jumping skis.

A set for recreational skis can be assembled using casein glue. For slalom, jumping and figure skiing, only waterproof adhesives of the VIAM-BZ type are suitable with the following composition: VIAM-B resin - 100 parts (by weight); acetone or ethyl alcohol - 10 parts; kerosene contact - 20 parts.

These components are thoroughly mixed in a glass container: first, resin and acetone are poured, then kerosene contact is added. The glue is used within two to three hours after preparation.

For particularly high-quality gluing, we can recommend epoxy glue of the following composition: epoxy resin - 10 parts (by weight); hardener - 1 part; plasticizer (dibutyl phthalate) - 1 part. The cooking method is similar to the previous one.

To prime the surface of the ski under paint or nitro enamels, it is better to use glypthal primer 138A.

Instead of painting, the working surface and side edges of water skis can be coated with phenol-formaldehyde varnish of the following composition: VIAM-B resin - 100 parts (by weight); acetone - 25 parts; kerosene contact - 15 parts; dibutyl phthalate - 5 parts; castor oil - 5 parts. You can also use an epoxy coating by increasing the proportion of plasticizer in the above recipe.

Making water skis begins with a kit. First of all, the set must be longitudinal; the introduction of even individual transverse elements significantly worsens the strength properties of skis.

The simplest set for all types of water skis can be made from three sheets of plywood: waterproof alder grade FSF GOST 3916-55 size 1100X260X3 mm for figure skis; birch grade FSF or aviation grades BS-1 and BP-1 size 1800Х180Х6 mm for slalom monoski; beech grade FSF or aviation grades mentioned above, size 180X180X5 mm for jumping skis. If standard sheets do not provide the specified length, it is necessary to join them by gluing them together (Fig. 3).

The remaining sheets of plywood are smeared with glue, laid on the “block” and pressed using clamps (to avoid gluing the workpiece to the “block”, a sheet of paper should be placed between them). To obtain an accurate longitudinal profile of the ski, especially in the places of bends, the clamps need to be placed as far apart as possible. To avoid deformation of the workpiece during pressing, planks or pieces of plywood are placed under the clamps.

After the glue has dried, the workpiece is removed from the “block”, the final shape of the ski is marked on it and processed: filed, touched and sanded with sandpaper, painted or coated with waterproof varnishes.

To increase the strength and rigidity of water skis, use a multi-rack set. It usually consists of three to five slats the length of a sheet of plywood and a width of 36-60 mm for jumping and slalom monoskis and 52-87 mm for figure skis (depending on the number of slats). The thickness of the slats depends on the number and thickness of plywood sheets that are laid on top and bottom of them. A possible set for figure skis is shown in Fig. 4. To ensure the formation of the longitudinal bend of the figured ski, the middle slats should be mitered at each end by about a third of the length. As the number of elements in a set increases, the requirements for careful assembly increase. First, several contact assemblies are made to check how the dimensions of the individual elements are maintained, and then they begin gluing the set. For more durable and uniform gluing of an increased number of elements in a set, clamps should be installed more often when pressing onto a “block”.

To facilitate bending at the nose, a longitudinal cut is made in hardwood slats to a length of 30-40 cm.

The groove on the working surface is selected using a plane with a profiled (rounded) cutter. It must be symmetrical relative to the center plane of the ski, otherwise its dynamic quality, in particular, stability when turning, deteriorates.

The main requirement for jumping skis is strength, to ensure which the set must contain possibly larger number elements by thickness. In the conditions of amateur construction, this requirement is satisfied by the set of plywood sheets described above.

In conclusion, we note that all of the specified specific requirements apply to sports water skis. Pleasure skis for recreational skiing can be made from wood of any species.

www.barque.ru

Types of water skiing. Currently, water skiers are united in the International Union of Water Skiers. International water skiing competitions were first held in France in 1949. In the USSR, the first major competitions were held in 1962. Competitions are held in the following types: slalom, ski jumping and figure skating. The International Water Skiing Union has established uniform rules for competitions.

Slalom. Each competitor must pass the 4m wide start control gate, go around 6 buoys spaced 90m apart and go through the finish gate (also 4m wide). The gates are marked with buoys. If a skier touches the buoy or fails to go around it, he will be awarded penalty points. The boat towing the skier makes the first tack in the middle of the track at a speed of 42, and the second (reverse) tack at a speed of 45 km/h, and passes the control gate at the prescribed speed. The speed of the towing boat is controlled by the judge.

The skier is given the right to compete on two or one ski.

Jumping. Jumping is carried out from a springboard with a height of 1.5 m for men and 1.5 m for women; its width is 2 by 3 m. Only the length of the jump is counted.

Figure skating. In figure skating, both the style of performance and the complexity of the figure are taken into account; Skiing is carried out on two or one ski. Here are some exercises: moving on one ski, turning 180° and moving backwards; movement, holding the handle of the sling with your foot, teeth, neck; jumping over a tow rope, etc.

Towing boat. Any boat with a speed of more than 35 km/h is suitable for towing skiers. You need to start training at low speeds, since if you fall at high speed you can break into the water. For experienced skiers who want to practice regularly, they need a boat with a powerful engine (60 to 100 hp) and a speed of up to 55 km/h.
The boat towing a skier should pick up speed smoothly and easily. In addition, the boat should have a low stern wave, since a high “rooster” behind the transom prevents the skier from making sharp turns and causes sharp jerks in the cable. And finally, the third requirement: the towing boat must have great lateral stability so that the danger of capsizing from the side tug of the cable that the skier is holding onto is eliminated. Typically, the stability of boats with a wide flat stern is quite sufficient.

An athlete can be towed even by a light powerboat with an outboard motor (for example, “Kazanka”). The author went water skiing behind a sports motorboat of the Strela type with a Moskva engine.

If the skier is being towed by a light motorboat, the cable should be secured to the eyelets attached to the transom approximately 10 cm below the edge of the deck. To ensure the turning ability of the towing vehicle, the skier in circulation must turn along a radius significantly larger than the radius of circulation of the motorboat. This circumstance should never be forgotten when using small boats and motorboats.

On a large and powerful boat, it is best to attach the towing rope to a bit at a height of about 50 cm above the deck in the center of rotation of the boat (slightly ahead of the stabilizer fin).

Planing boats with water jet propulsion are best suited for towing skiers; when using them, there is no danger of injuring the athlete with the boat propeller, and the skier can start from shallow water.

As we already know, people standing on skis press on the surface of the water with their weight, therefore, in order not to plunge into the water, they must move along it at a speed that is greater, the greater their weight and the more smaller size skis This requires increasing the engine power of the towing boat. For a boat with a length of 4.5 and a width of 1.35 m, the number and weight of towed athletes depend on the engine power as follows:

Skis. Water skis for each type of competition have some features in design and dimensions. The size of the skis also depends on the weight of the athlete.

Regular recreational skis are 18 cm wide and 1.5 cm thick; their length is chosen depending on the weight of the athlete:

The tips of the ski are slightly rounded, and the ski as a whole may have a slight convex towards the sliding surface. Skis are attached to the legs with elastic rubber fastenings that fit the leg.

If an athlete falls, the skis should be easily removed from the feet and float up next to the skier.

Jumping skis are made somewhat heavier; their center of gravity must be behind the bow bindings so much that when jumping, the skis sag back and cannot stick their toes into the water (in this case, the skier can break their chest and stomach on the water, stretching the ligaments in the ankle joints).

Experienced slalom skiers often perform on one ski 180 cm long and 20 cm wide. Such a ski, in addition to the usual binding, is equipped with another nose binding located behind the first. Athletes sometimes even ski with dimensions of 165X18 cm. In order for such skis to handle better, they are tapered at the ends so that they resemble a banana in shape.

Figure skating skis, in principle, are no different from slalom skis, only they are made more curved.

A lightweight aluminum fin is attached to the rear ends of the sliding surface of the skis to increase stability. Skis with such a fin are usually used by beginner athletes.

Cable. To tow athletes, you can use any soft cable with a length of 18 to 30 m. A good nylon cord with a diameter of 6 by 8 mm is that it does not rot from frequent wetting, is lightweight and does not form so-called “pegs” (knots) when unraveling from the coil. A manila cable will also work.

It is best if the cable is painted in a bright color and floats on the surface; then the athlete can see it well, and the cable will probably not get into the boat’s propeller. Abroad, a special plastic jacket is put on the cable, which keeps it afloat.

For water skiing competitions, the total length of the cable must be 22.5 m; of which 1.5 m in length are slings for handles. Handles of round or oval cross-section are made of wood or plastic. The ends of the slings are connected to each other to a thimble, and the thimble of each sling is connected to the cable thimble using carabiners, staples or swivels.

Used for figure skating special device: the transverse handle is attached to the cable with a steel yoke with an eye; a leg mount slides along the yoke, which is used when towing by the foot.

Education. First of all, it should be noted that only healthy and, in any case, people who can swim can practice water skiing. When falling, a skier must be able to not only hold on long time on the water until the boat turns around and approaches it, but also quickly get rid of the skis. Beginners should wear life jackets, peacoats or inflatable belts when practicing on the water.

“Snow” skiers and slalomists, who are accustomed to maintaining balance in the most difficult conditions, undergo training easier and faster than others.

You need to start training on the shore. First, put on the nose clip, adjust the heel clip and tighten the adjustment screws. The rope handles are held with arms extended forward. The teacher holds the rope taut. The student, squatting, skis slightly apart (but keeping them parallel) and holding the cable, rises to slightly bent legs, with the body weight behind the heels. The body is held by a cable, the slack of which is selected by the trainer. When the student has learned the first lesson and stops falling to the side, they begin training in water, repeating the same exercises.

Particular attention should be paid to ensuring that the student holds the Lizhi parallel to the taut tow rope. This is usually difficult to achieve, since the skier is now free to float in the water. Sitting on the backs of the skis, the beginner swims up to the instructor, who pulls him up by the rope. Skis should protrude slightly above the surface. Only after beginners learn to control their body in the water do they begin training with a boat, which is better to start on larger spoons.

Having assumed the starting position, the ends of the skis are shown above the surface as a sign of readiness to move. The boat quickly and smoothly, without jerking, picks up speed. The skier unbends smoothly and energetically, holding the skis at a certain angle to the surface of the water and leaning back slightly; Having picked up speed, the skis are held almost horizontally.

If a motorboat with a low-power engine is used as a towing vehicle, they start with booms. The skier sits on the boom, puts on his skis, lays out the cable and makes a sign to start moving. 2-3 seconds before the cable is pulled out, the skier jumps from the boom onto the skis; the skis do not have time to sink deeply, and therefore the skier’s resistance is not yet very high. The motorboat quickly goes into planing mode and pulls the skier to the surface. It's good to start with a sheet of plywood, standing in shallow water.

To make turns easily, you need to remember that the boat usually reduces speed during circulation, so the skier must turn along a curve with a larger radius, reaching the outside of the turn. To turn, the athlete leans toward the inside of the turn, loading the inside edges of the skis. Sharp turns can be made by bending at the hip joint, similar to how slalomists make cornering movements on snow.

To stop, the skier signals to the boat. The boat stops, and the skier, after walking a few more meters, smoothly descends into the water. You can drop the skier off on a boom or other vessel. To do this, the boat passes at a distance of 4-5 m from the vessel or boom, the skier releases the cable in advance and stops at the intended place. Naturally, this method requires a certain amount of training and a developed eye.

You can stop by driving out into shallow water. Here the whitefish, having lost speed, easily sinks to the bottom of the reservoir. You need to put one leg forward 10-15 cm and transfer your body weight to your back leg so as not to fall forward during a sudden stop when the skis come into contact with the ground.

Jumping. Having mastered the movement on two skis well and learned to turn, they move on to studying the jumping technique.

First, they jump from the stern wave of the boat, crossing its wake from one side to the other; then they move to the springboard. The dimensions of the upper table of the springboard are 2X5 m. The height of the upper edge is adjusted depending on the training of the athletes. They start, of course, with a low height and low towing speed. The boat goes to the springboard and passes next to it at a distance of 4-5 m. The skier goes on a parallel course and heads to the springboard, standing with slightly bent knees and a straightened body, and having entered the springboard, he slightly tucks his legs, grouping himself. In flight, he straightens up again, and then, elastically bending his knees, “splashes down.” The athlete's movements are similar to the movements of a skier overcoming a small hill while descending from a mountain.

The exercise is then made more difficult by increasing the speed. A classic jump will be when a skier at a speed of 57 km/h (for women 50 km/h) approaches the springboard in a high stance, squats, pushes off with his feet and flies straight up over the water. The skis are held in flight horizontally or with the toes slightly raised. Having touched the water, the skier continues on his way.

Slalom on one ski. The athlete first glides on two skis, then takes off one of them and leaves it on the water, and places his free foot on the back of the ski. Now, by bending the body and standing slightly on the edge of the ski, the athlete can change the direction of movement.

When passing a slalom course, a ski 20 cm wide, equipped with two bindings, is used. Handles for the left and right hands are attached to the tow rope.

The highest skiing technique is figure skating on one or two skis using a special handle.

Making simple skis. Water skis are commercially available, but they are relatively expensive (more expensive than slalom skis). Naturally, many athletes make water skis on their own, especially since it is not difficult.

Ski sizes are selected depending on the weight of the athlete. The materials are boards and plywood.

The board is marked according to the accepted length. Using a hacksaw, make cross cuts at the toe. Then, a piece of plywood is placed on the area of the cuts, greased with waterproof glue, and underlaid wooden block- a wedge processed in the shape of the bend of the toe - and press the ski to it with a clamp. The plywood, when glued, does not allow the end of the board to bend; The ski blank is covered with any fabric using waterproof glue.

It is best to glue skis from plywood.
Two sheets of plywood (1500X1500 mm) are glued together, butted together, then strips of the required width (180X200 mm) are cut out and assembled into a bag until the desired thickness is obtained. The strips are coated with glue and laid on a wooden beam (the surface of which is cut into the shape of a ski), pressing with clamps or nails. After gluing, the skis are trimmed, sanded and painted. The paint is constantly renewed during operation. It should be remembered that the slightest scratch or abrasion significantly reduces the service life of the ski; As a result of swelling and warping, the shape of the skis changes significantly, making them difficult to use.

The fastening is made of sheet rubber 2-3 mm thick. Rubber is attached with metal or plywood strips with screws. The stabilizer fin is strengthened from below.

The shape of the ski in plan can be very diverse. Typically the maximum width is located in the middle; the ski is slightly rounded towards the nose, and goes straight or narrows towards the rear end, which makes turns easier.

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Lesson 1. Before you go out on the water

To the chagrin of some, we will have to start our first lesson on the shore. First, a little information about what we need.

Water skis and bindings of various types are produced by industry and sold in sporting goods stores; You can also buy a towing halyard with a handle there (it’s better not to waste money and buy a “branded” cable - it meets all the requirements for reliability and safety).

For the first outings on the water, paired recreational skis are most suitable, as they “forgive” many mistakes.

If desired, the simplest recreational skis can be made independently from light varieties of wood and then coated with waterproof paint. The main dimensions of a pair ski of this type are shown in Fig. 1. B Lately The most common are recreational skis that have a “banana” shape in plan. The maximum width bmax ranges from 18 to 22 cm depending on the engine power and the weight of the athlete (naturally, the “weaker” the engine and the heavier the skier, the large area must have skis).

You can determine the length of skis for beginners from the diagram (Fig. 2), in accordance with the speed capabilities of the boat and its own weight. If there are several people in your group who will learn on the same skis, when choosing sizes, focus on the heaviest athlete (although, of course, it is better if everyone is approximately the same weight).

Rice. 3. Installing bindings on paired water skis
Rice. 4. Grouping position when simulating a launch on the shore

Success on water skiing also depends on the correct installation of the bindings. To effectively control skis, the skier's weight must be applied to the center of gravity of the skis. Therefore, we act like this: we bring the ski with the installed guide keel into balance on a wedge-shaped support and mark the center of gravity with a transverse line (Fig. 3), with which we align the rear section of the toe part of the rubber mount. We install the heel part of the fastening after adjusting it to the size of the foot.

The key to successful starts on the water is mastering simulation exercises on the shore. They are all very simple, but quite effective.

Imitating a start on... grass is very useful for beginners. The student puts on skis and assumes a tuck position: back straight; the body is slightly tilted back; arms are bent at the elbows at an angle of 90° and pressed to the body; feet shoulder-width apart and slightly bent at the knees; the gaze is directed forward. The “trainer” takes the free end of the halyard 3-4 m from the handle and prepares to pull (Fig. 4).

The “skier” gives the “ready” signal and secures his stance, tensing the muscles of his arms and legs and leaning back slightly. When the “coach”, pulling the halyard, begins to pull the “skier” towards himself, you need to counteract this pull by resting your feet on the skis. Maintain the grouping position even after you start moving.

Repeat the “start” several times, increasing the thrust and bringing it to a significant jerk. If you have learned to maintain balance and move to a stable movement, then you can do this on the water.

But before taking the first real start, let's remember the basic safety rules.

I think that everyone understands: those who cannot swim have nothing to do on the water. But the ability to swim does not exempt a novice water skier from using life-saving equipment - a water-ski belt, vest or bib.

Carefully inspect the skis, bindings and halyard for any sharp or protruding parts that could cause injury. The fastenings must ensure unhindered release of the legs in the event of a fall. Check that the handle is securely attached to the halyard - even the slightest movement along the cable is unacceptable.

The water area in which you will conduct training must be free of surface and underwater (at a depth of 1.5 m) obstacles. Consider whether there is enough space and whether you will not interfere with traffic. If a place is favored by swimmers, stay away from it.

Remember that in case of a fall, you must group yourself and release the handle. When you emerge from the water, be sure to give a signal to those in the boat. If you are ready to continue, raise your hand up - this is the signal “everything is okay.”

Rice. 5. Signals of a water skier: a - “everything is fine”; b - “increase speed”; c - “reduce speed”; g - “normal speed”; d - “direction of rotation”

Knowing the water skier's signals is the key to safe training (Fig. 5). Before the start, the observer inquires about the skier’s readiness and when the answer is “Ready!” or simply nodding his head instructs the driver to start moving.

If you want to increase your speed, make a few upward movements with your hand clenched into a fist with your thumb pointing up.

The signal to reduce speed is given in a similar way, only the thumb is moved down and movements are made from top to bottom.

If the speed suits you, make an “O” with your thumb and forefinger.

To indicate which direction the boat is turning, make a hand signal in the desired direction.

Only after practicing the “theory” on the shore and learning to successfully take a “land start” can a future water skier consider the first lesson learned, which opens the way for him to the water.”

Yuri Zhukov, “Boats and yachts”, 1989, No. 03(139)

The article is published with the permission of the magazine “Boats and Yachts”.

The magazine issue was taken from the Boats and Yachts Archive.