When is the best time to dig up gladioli bulbs in the fall? When to dig up gladioli bulbs

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The popularity of gladiolus is quite understandable - it is difficult to find a more beautiful and majestic plant. Even the peculiarities of care do not harm its success: since the flower is very heat-loving, gardeners regularly dig up corms to avoid its death during the cold Russian winters. Let's try to figure out when to dig up gladioli in the fall, where and how to preserve them until spring, so that they bloom profusely next summer?

Digging up tubers - necessary condition growing gladioli. frosts and high level Humidity causes the bulbs to become sick or die completely. Special attention should be given to varieties with dark or bright flowers, the rest can be dug up a little later.

The period of extraction from the soil depends on the variety:

• Early varieties need to be dug up 30 days after the buds open;
• Late varieties - after 50 days.

Attention! Blooming flowers must be cut off and not left as garden decoration. If you leave only the stems, the roots will receive more nutrients.

If weather conditions in summer are not very favorable, flower stalks may form very late. In such situations, it is recommended to break them off to allow the bulbs to ripen.

In central Russia, for example, in the Moscow region, roots should be removed in the middle or end of September, when the temperature at night approaches 10 degrees above zero. It is better to dig up even small, completely unripe bulbs before the thermometer shows +2o. Even this temperature can destroy a heat-loving plant.
In the southern regions of Russia, where there is often a warm October, the excavation dates may shift slightly. If the night temperature is above the minimum (10 degrees), it can be extracted from the ground in more late time. Then all the bulbs will be able to fully develop.

In addition, it is recommended to carry out work in sunny weather. It’s even better when there was no precipitation the day before. If the ground is too wet, you risk leaving babies in the ground, but they are rightfully considered the most viable.

Advice! If you find cinnamon spots on the leaves of your gladiolus, or the foliage begins to dry out prematurely, dig up the roots immediately.

Spots like these are symptoms fungal disease, the further development of which will lead to the fact that the bulbs will become completely unusable. Immediate removal of them from the ground is the only chance to save the seed.

Rules for extraction from the ground

In order for root digging to be successful, you need to follow certain rules:

1. You need to carefully pry the flowers with a shovel or pitchfork. It is allowed to completely dig up the bush. Be careful not to damage the seed.
2. Pull the stems a little, just try not to overdo it and tear them off prematurely. Shake off the soil.
3. If the stems have not turned yellow, leave the gladioli for two to three days so that the remaining green minerals moved into a tuber.
4. Trim the stem, leaving a small tail (about 1-1.5 centimeters). long length not recommended, since one of the main pests, thrips, lives at the base of the stems, which can crawl into the bulb and destroy it over the winter.
5. Sort the collected material. Place diseased or weak bulbs in a separate container. The mother tuber is also separated. Such measures will help avoid fungal infections.
6. Material that has not passed strict selection must be burned.

Advice! If there are critically few bulbs of a particular variety, you can try to save the diseased tubers. Cut away the affected parts until healthy tissue is exposed. After this, treat the cut areas with a solution of potassium permanganate, brilliant green or fungicides.

How to dry onions

To planting material successfully survived the winter at home, did not rot or suffer from fungal infections, it needs to be dried.

Experienced gardeners It is advised to treat even healthy specimens with a solution of potassium permanganate or boric acid. This measure is a way to disinfect tubers and reduce the risks of fungal and other diseases.

1. Trim the roots a little (do not remove them completely).
2. If soil remains, you can rinse the bulbs under the tap.
3. Drying under ultraviolet rays.
4. Ventilation and special temperature conditions.
5. Regular inspection.

If the first two stages can be considered preparatory steps, then the subsequent ones are the actual drying of the planting material.
The bulbs are transferred to baking sheets, previously covered with paper, and in sunny weather they are placed under open air. When the moisture has completely evaporated, return the baking sheets indoors. The roots must be placed in prepared containers.

The bottom of the selected containers should not be solid: it must contain a large number of ventilation holes. The roots are stored at a temperature of 25-30 degrees above zero for about two weeks. Sometimes they are mixed so that liquid does not collect in the lower layers, and the tubers receive constant and free access to oxygen.

The tubers are stored at room temperature for about another 1.5 months.
The fifth stage lasts the entire storage period of gladioli. It is necessary to regularly inspect the corms, separating the affected specimens. If you find red or purple spots, you need to throw away the bulbs, since, most likely, they have been eaten away from the inside. You can try to save the remaining part of the landing specimen.

The tubers are placed in bags. Affected specimens are sprayed with insect repellent aerosol. You can use a 4% Arrivo solution. After this, the bags are tied for about half an hour or an hour to allow the bulbs to absorb the chemicals. These remedies will lead to the death of thrips.

To improve the effect, immerse the corms in water at a temperature of approximately 50 degrees and keep there for five to seven minutes. Dry again. Don't forget that a humid environment is a great place for fungal diseases to develop.

Advice! If climatic conditions do not allow drying the corms for outdoors, which often happens, for example, in the Urals or Siberia, you can use a stove or fireplace (if available). Lay out the collected material on newspaper or any other paper and light the stove. A few days will be enough.

Basic methods and principles of storing corms

Beginning flower growers often ask questions about what to do with them after drying, whether it is possible to store gladioli bulbs in an apartment or whether a basement is necessary. People who have more experience in growing gladiolus know well that both options will do. Moreover, storing in an apartment has an undeniable advantage: the corms can be easily checked for the presence of affected areas.

Experienced gardeners usually use one of the methods for storing gladioli. After drying is complete, try the following:

1. Wrap each bulb in paper and place in wooden box or cardboard box. Add a few cloves of garlic or mothballs to the container. This will help protect the workpiece from pests. Place the box in a cellar or basement, but if in an underground room high humidity, place the planting material in bottom drawer refrigerator where fruit is usually stored. 18.19
2. Remove the outer skin from the tuber and dip it in paraffin. During disembarkation at open ground artificial protective film You can't take it off.

Following all the rules for cleaning, drying and storing gladioli will ensure that the children remain strong and will delight you next season lush flowering. Their majestic yet subtle beauty is worth the effort.

Gladioli require special care, Substantial part which consists in proper excavation and storage of planting material. What do you need to know to avoid mistakes when working with corms?

In order for gladioli to be as happy with flowering in the new season as in the previous one, it is important to dig up the corms correctly, store them in proper conditions and then properly prepare them for planting.

When are gladioli dug up for the winter?

Gladioli should be dug up in the fall, around mid-September. But since weather conditions can make adjustments to your actions, it is best to use the following method: 35-45 days after the gladiolus blooms, you can safely dig it up. You should start first with early varieties gladioli.

How to properly dig up gladioli after flowering?

Corms should only be dug up in dry weather. If it rained the other day, you need to wait until the ground dries well. Before digging up gladioli, it is necessary to trim the stems of the plants using pruning shears. You can leave small stumps 5 cm high. The roots of the corms are also subject to pruning after they are removed from the soil. Sick specimens are discarded and burned.

When digging, pay attention to the corms. : they should be covered with brown scales. The baby on the corm should also have scales and be easily separated from the mother corm. This is the main sign that the gladioli are ready for harvest.

How to treat gladioli bulbs after digging?

It is necessary to remove the soil from the corms remaining after sorting. As soon as they are cleared of soil, they must be immersed in the Fundazol solution for 20-30 minutes. Then the corms are washed with water and treated with a 3% solution of potassium permanganate for 30-60 minutes.

How to properly dry gladioli bulbs?

The corms are dried in the open air for 3 days. It is very important that the weather is dry and sunny. During rain, planting material should be brought indoors, where it must be shaken periodically to dry all parts. If not dried properly, rotting may begin.

After 3 days, gladiolus corms must be placed in cardboard boxes or plastic boxes and placed in a well-heated room. If the air temperature outside is 25-30°C, then during the day the bulbs can be dried on fresh air(remembering to turn them periodically). After 2 weeks, the corms can be transferred to a room with a temperature of at least 18°C.

After a month, the dried corms are cleared of scales. Children are sorted by size and placed in paper or cloth bags. You can store them in the refrigerator.

Where and how to store gladioli bulbs in winter?

After harvesting gladioli corms for 1-2 months, even under the most favorable conditions do not germinate. Therefore, they can be stored in a relatively warm room. After this period, the storage of corms should be taken more seriously. If the temperature in the place of detention is more than 5°C, it begins to rise root system. High humidity(more than 70%) can lead to rotting of the corms.

The ideal place to store gladioli corms is a well-ventilated cellar. Wooden or plastic boxes with a lattice instead of a bottom or stockings that are hung from the ceiling of the cellar are suitable for storage. When storing at home, a great place is the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. The corms are simply wrapped in paper or newspaper and stored until early spring.

During the entire storage period, gladioli corms may dry out slightly and decrease in size. This is quite normal. Before planting in the soil, it is enough to hold them for a day in a cloth soaked in water, and they will again acquire their original shape.

What to do if thrips are found on gladioli?

Thrips- one of the most common pests of flowers, including gladioli. These insects are dangerous because they not only spoil decorative look plants, but ultimately lead to their death. It also happens that thrips penetrate inside the corm. If such planting material is sent to winter storage in a warm place, then the insects will have time to suck out all the juices from the corms.

In warm weather, thrips multiply quickly and in one winter can destroy all the bulbs in storage. Just one corm with pests can cause the death of all planting material.

If you notice small “bites” on the bulbs of gladioli, and their surface has become rough, most likely the planting material is damaged by thrips. In case of severe damage, dense circular spots of gray or Brown. The sprout and corm dry out, and yellow dust begins to fall from it.

Measures to combat thrips

Before planting, gladioli corms need to be treated. To do this, they can be soaked for 5 minutes in Actellik solution (2 g per 1 liter of water) or kept in water for the same amount of time. hot water temperature about 50°C.

When the first buds appear, gladioli should be sprayed with Decis Profi, Actellik, Karbofos or Confidor once every 18-20 days for prevention. Last time treatment should be carried out 10-14 days before digging up the corms.

For the winter, as we know, gladioli bulbs must be dug up. This needs to be done on time. This is the first stage, which in the future will allow you later, literally in next year, it is quite possible to achieve even more from them strong flowering. The second point, which is also very important with gladioli, is the ability to store them correctly. After all, even if you don’t damage the bulbs when digging them up, but you store them somehow (that is, without observing certain rules), then, most likely, your planting material by spring will not be as good as you planned to keep it.

When to dig?

What determines the time when to dig up gladioli bulbs? Here you need to proceed from the flowering time of a particular variety of these flowers, as well as from cutting. Gladioli bulbs and their children ripen in 30 or even 40 days, which is counted from the day of their flowering, as well as cutting. Everything can be explained here simple example. Your gladiolus was blooming, and you cut it, for example, on August 5th. Then on September 5th you can safely dig up its bulb. It is clear that the timing is easy to calculate if you only have a couple of gladioli growing. If there are a lot of them, then it is best to keep a diary, where you write down when a particular flower bloomed. Then, according to these records, it will be possible to dig up the bulb of each gladiolus exactly on time. If you prefer to admire your gladioli in the flower garden, and do not cut the flowers. Then the plant will have to “feed” its flower more, which means that the bulbs need to be dug up later, for 15-20 days.

In the non-chernozem zone of our country, most gladioli bloom in August, mostly even in the second half. So, if we proceed from this, then you can safely dig up the bulbs from September 15th. Even if the bulbs in this case are a little unripe, then there is nothing terrible here. Its quality will not suffer at all here. But in this case it will be much more convenient to sample children. Such children have not yet fully matured, so it holds tightly to the bulb, and you can easily remove the corm itself right with the child. Basically, babies at this time are gray, or even light gray. When the children are already fully mature, their color becomes more saturated and turns into dark brown. This color almost matches the color of the soil. At the same time, the already matured children are kept separate from the bulbs. So, if you dig up the bulbs at this particular time, the babies can easily be lost in the ground.

The best time to dig up bulbs is when the sun is shining. At the first stage, you will need to select those gladioli that you grew from corms. And from them, first of all, you need to dig up early varieties. To avoid problems with this, when planting gladioli, you need to do it by variety. That is, in this case, the varieties do not interfere, but the early ones are planted separately from those that ripen later. This way, when digging, it will be easier for you to navigate. You can dig up gladioli with a shovel. There is another option, more convenient, which is to take 2 scoops with fairly strong handles.

When planting transverse and single-line gladioli, you need to dig them up according to a certain method:

• First, roughly determine the center of the bulb, move 7 centimeters away from it on each side, and stick two scoops into the ground on both sides. This is done throughout the entire row of gladioli plantings;
• In this case, the scoops need to be deepened by 15 centimeters, and then the handle is bent away from the corms;
• Now you need to press the handles. This way you can remove the bulb itself and the baby from the ground, that is, they will appear on the surface;
• At this point, the digging is completed, and the bulbs along with the children can be collected and placed in any container.

When you have dug up gladioli of one variety, you need to start pruning them, which should also be done correctly. There is no need to leave the stem on the bulb when pruning. Cut it as close to the bulb itself as possible. The old corm will need to be torn off from the young one. They do this by simply clicking on it thumb. Don't forget to trim the roots too. Sometimes the old onion is not torn off immediately, but only after drying it for about a week. This is determined by the conditions of such drying, and largely by the experience that the grower already has.

When you are done with digging, place the bulbs and babies on a sieve. It is very convenient to wash them in it. After washing and drying, the bulbs are put into bags, on which the variety must be written, and they are also pickled.

You need to dig up gladioli bulbs not only based on their full maturity. The state in which this particular plant is in your home also plays a role here. When the gladioli are green and show no signs of any disease, they should be dug up at the usual time. But sick plants are dug up early so that the bulbs can still be saved.

How to store?

You will be able to successfully preserve gladioli bulbs and their offspring if only you dry them properly after digging them up. Sometimes it happens that we don’t dry the bulbs completely. This is very bad. Such bulbs are very often affected by various fungi, that is, “rot” appears. So, the bulbs that you dug up, washed, and then also pickled, need to be thoroughly dried. They do this for quite a long time, 2 or 3 weeks. At the same time, they first maintain a temperature of 25-30 degrees, and then dry them at room temperature. Anyway, better than an onion Drying gladioli too dry (nothing will happen to them) is better than not drying them.

Only healthy bulbs should be stored. In order not to make a mistake and not to put diseased bulbs in storage, you need to carefully examine them. If you don’t like something about an onion, it’s better to discard it immediately. Sometimes we feel very sorry for throwing away bulbs of expensive varieties that are already damaged. If this is a minor lesion, then you can try to save it. Cut off the diseased part of this bulb so that healthy tissue appears. Disinfect this cut with ordinary green paint and store it.

As for storing bulbs, a refrigerator is suitable for this. You can also store them in a room (veranda, for example), where you have an open window. In any case, you need to focus on the temperature, and it should fall within the range of 3 – 9 degrees.

Even if you have dried the bulbs and their children correctly, an infection can still lurk in their scales or other similar places. So, don’t forget about the bulbs after storing them. Every month it is necessary to inspect all the bulbs in order to remove those specimens that are still sick.

In addition to the temperature in the storage, humidity is also important. It should be up to 60 percent. If you experience a failure in temperature conditions, and the recommended humidity regime is violated, then the tubercles that are located on the bottom will sprout. To protect the bulbs from thrips and harmful microorganisms, cut the garlic into slices and place it next to the bulbs. When it dries, replace it with new garlic cloves.

A few more important points

It is quite possible to preserve gladioli even in an apartment, for example, on a windowsill. Here again the determining factor is temperature. Sometimes it also happens that the bulbs become soft, but not all of them. Only those that were lying near the glass become soft, and most likely they were simply frozen there.

Sometimes, if a baby is large enough, the shell that covers it cracks. This happens if the development of this baby was uneven, or the weather was “uneven”. That is, there was an alternation of dry and wet weather. Because of this weather, nutrients They reach the baby very unevenly. The shell of this vibration cannot withstand and cracks.

If you dug up the bulbs, but at the same time you found many diseased specimens, you should not feel sorry for them. It's better to just throw them away. Otherwise, even if they survive the winter with you, they will not sprout. Although it is quite possible that some of these diseased bulbs will still begin to sprout. But such gladioli will still grow weak and then die.

When you dig up the bulbs, you will be sure to pick out all the children, even very small ones, from the soil. Otherwise, your soil will become clogged, that is, these small children will then germinate, and the purity of the variety of your gladioli will be compromised. Small children can produce some varieties. They simply don’t give large ones. So use them so that you can quickly propagate this variety.

Root pruning of bulbs needs to be done in different ways. If the bulbs are large, then they are cut off almost completely. This makes storing and transporting such bulbs much more convenient. As for small corms, the bottom of them should not be completely exposed, as they will be stored better this way. Trim the roots a little and that's it.

The foliage of gladioli is immediately cut off after digging. Some do it later, after two weeks. But it’s better not to do that. After all, those pests that “sit” in the foliage can easily move into the bulbs themselves. Certainly. If you are completely confident in the health of your gladioli, then you can cut the leaves later.

If you dug up the bulbs late, then their mass increases greatly, and therefore their size. But when the weather is damp, diseases progress very quickly. So it’s better to dig up gladioli early. Even if the bulbs in this case will not be so large, but they will retain their health.

Sometimes, when drying, a gray-green coating appears on the bulbs. It somewhat resembles mold. This is exactly what she is. Most likely, this is a pencillium mycelium. This means that your storage was too humid.

Do not dry gladioli bulbs on radiators. There they can simply cook and become completely soft.

Children of gladioli can be stored for 2 years, but only if all the subtleties of their storage regime are observed.

It happens that you seem to have dried the bulbs well and put them in storage, but light brown spots have appeared on them. This is botrytiosis, or, more simply, brown rot. This means that you dried them poorly.

When the corms are dug up, they are dried. Further, there is no need to remove the scales from them; store them just like that. If you see any sign of disease, then you can remove only the upper scales. There is no need to clean up anymore. After all, scales are a kind of protection against damage to the bulbs, as well as against their drying out. They need to be removed from the bulb only when planting, a week or two before. If you do not remove the scales at all, then it is likely that you will introduce thrips or other “unfriendly” microorganisms into the soil. This cleaning will also allow you to make sure that there are no diseases on the bulbs. If you find these diseases, then disinfect the bulbs, and then apply microelements with growth stimulants to them. Those bulbs that you planted unpeeled will sprout a whole week later.