Installing and connecting a heated floor thermostat with your own hands. Connecting a heated floor to a thermostat: instructions on electrical work Electrical diagram for connecting a thermostat
In order to provide the desired microclimate in rooms automatically, there are devices that control the operation of heating devices - thermostats. Their function is to maintain the set temperature in the room without directly affecting the boiler installation. This material is intended to illuminate the question of how to properly connect the thermostat to any heating element, be it water heating or infrared emitter.
Using thermostats in radiator heating
All thermostats designed to automatically maintain a given air temperature within 
premises are divided into 2 groups:
- with mechanical drive;
- electronic.
The basis of the design of both types of devices is a temperature-sensitive element, which, when the set temperature value is reached, acts on the valve mechanically or sends an electrical signal to the actuator (servo drive, relay, contactor, etc.). If we are talking about the simplest non-volatile thermostats, then they shining example– valves with thermal heads installed on heating radiators. More “advanced” thermal heads with electronic control and battery power have also appeared on the market.
Correctly connecting a water heating battery through a thermostat is not difficult, especially if it is installed simultaneously with a radiator. If not, you should empty this branch of the system by first turning off the boiler or closing the corresponding fittings. Then disassemble the supply line to the battery and install the thermostatic valve in accordance with the instructions.
Important! There is no need to install thermostats on all heating devices within the same room. For control, it is sufficient if the devices regulate the flow on radiators whose total heat transfer exceeds 50% of the total. For example, if there are 2 batteries in the room, the valve with the head must be placed on one, whose power is higher. The same thing applies if their heat transfer is the same.
To connect a thermostat with an additional remote temperature sensor and a capillary tube, attaching this sensor to the wall will be added to the previous procedure. Its purpose is to measure environmental parameters away from the heaters, so it is better to place the recorder at a height of about 1.5 m from the floor.
Attention! Thermostatic valves work to shut off the coolant, so they cannot increase the heating power, only reduce it. Boiler equipment is responsible for providing the house with thermal energy.
How to connect a heated floor to a thermostat
Unlike electric heated floors, where the temperature regulator is included and the diagram provides for its connection, underfloor water heating basic version is not equipped with automation equipment. They need to be chosen from two types:
- Mechanical adjustment using a thermal head and a remote coolant temperature sensor.
- By using electronic thermostat with servo drive.
There is also a way to centrally control the smart home system from the controller, but due to its high complexity this system we will not consider. The simplest diagram for connecting a heated floor with a three-way valve and a thermal head with a submersible temperature sensor is presented below.
Connection to warm floor
The thermal head, whose drive is installed in a three-way valve, uses an immersion sensor to measure the temperature in the supply manifold, to which the heating circuits of all rooms are connected. When the coolant temperature reaches the set temperature, the head drive activates three-way valve, as a result of which water begins to circulate inside the underfloor heating system. The supply of coolant from the boiler is stopped or limited.
This kind of microclimate control is indirect, with coolant flowing to all rooms at the same temperature. A heated floor connected to an electronic thermostat, guided by a room temperature sensor, does not have this drawback. The following diagram will help you make the correct connection.
Connecting a heated floor to an electronic thermostat
To connect a room thermostat to distribution manifold, you need to install it on the wall indoors, lay the power wires to the home electrical network and to the switching unit, the latter must be placed on the rail above the distributor. Next, the plastic cap is removed from the supply line valve and a servo drive is installed in its place.
The final connection of the heated floor to the thermostat is completed by connecting the wires from the servo drive to the electronic unit. The terminals on all devices to which wires must be connected are indicated in the electrical diagram included with each product. Now the coolant will be supplied to each circuit depending on the actual temperature in the room where the thermostat is located.
Connecting a thermostat to an infrared heater
Since in many cases home heating is carried out using infrared heaters, a thermostat can be used here to save electricity. Just as in previous cases, when the device reaches a certain temperature in the room, it will break the circuit and turn off the heater.
Important! When purchasing a thermostat in order to turn off an infrared heater, it is necessary to compare the power consumption of the heat source and the maximum switching power of the thermostat. The latter must be larger and have a reserve in order to function normally together with the heating element.
If 1 heat source is used to heat the room, then connecting the thermostat to infrared heater as follows:
Indoors large area 2 or more electric heaters are installed, then a parallel circuit is used:
Small country houses Owners heat garages, garages and other similar buildings using electric heating elements. They are immersed in oil or aquatic environment, filling homemade register, welded from steel pipes. The most simple means automation for such a heat source is the same thermostat, it is not difficult to install, you just need to lay the wires to the heater. Of course, it is easier to use heating elements with a built-in thermostat in the design, but then the control will again be indirect, based on the coolant. It is better to install a regular electronic unit with a sensor and connect it to the heating element. The picture below uses simple circuit connecting a heating element with a thermostat.
Conclusion
Knowing how to connect a thermostat to a heated floor and to a heating element or other type of heater, you can do this work yourself. There are no particular difficulties here, you just need to select the right device for electrical power and connect it in accordance with the diagram.
They have long ceased to be some kind of curiosity. Many owners of houses and apartments are increasingly resorting to this method of heating rooms, planning to use it in conjunction with a classic heating system or even instead of it. There are many advantages - cost-effectiveness, special comfort, and optimal heat distribution throughout the room.
If we compare the two main types of “warm floors”, and, then the second is much simpler and cheaper to install, easier to set up and operate. Many people are put off by the high cost of electricity. But this criterion is quite conditional if the apartment or house is well insulated and the operation of the heating system is properly organized. The function of controlling an electric “warm floor” is assigned to a special device - a thermostat. It is a mandatory element of the system, and the level of created comfort and economical operation.
Installing such a “brain” of the system is not so difficult task. Let's figure out how to connect a heated floor to a thermostat.
Why is thermoregulation of a “warm floor” needed?
Just a few words about the importance of a high-quality, correctly functioning electric floor heating control system.
Such a heating system cannot simply be plugged into the network and operated according to the principle “the warmer the better.” The surface heating temperature is always strictly limited, and usually does not exceed a maximum of +27 degrees in residential areas. It may be slightly higher in bathrooms and showers, in corridors or hallways, but also within +30÷33 degrees. And why?
- Firstly, the level of comfortable perception of heat coming from below for a person’s feet lies within the range of 25–27 degrees. With more high temperatures, especially those exceeding the normal human body temperature, begins to clearly “burn.” And the feeling of pleasant warmth is replaced by obvious discomfort.
- Secondly, excessively strong heating has a negative effect on the finishing floor covering. Even those varieties that are designed for operation in conjunction with a heating system have upper limits of permissible temperatures. Otherwise, deformation processes may begin due to excessive linear expansion. Dryness, seam divergence, breakage of locking joints and other unpleasant phenomena are observed.
- Finally, the issue of rational spending of expensive resources was and remains extremely important. electrical energy. In a well-distanced “warm floor” system, with high-quality thermal insulation of the ceiling and the entire room as a whole, the heating elements operate for a very limited time. An example is shown in the diagram below.
Not only that, the total consumption even in such a continuous operating mode is very insignificant. Savings are also achieved by fine-tuning modes. That is, heating will be carried out exactly when it is really needed.
All these control functions are performed by a special device - a thermostat.
Types of thermostats for electric “warm floors”
Thermostats are compact devices designed for installation in a standard socket box (built-in models) or directly on the wall (overhead). To operate in underfloor heating systems, they must be equipped with a temperature sensor with a signal cable. Many thermostats also have a built-in temperature sensor that monitors the air temperature in the room. Such models are usually used in cases where the system electric heating becomes the main source of heat. But they always provide for the possibility of connecting an external temperature sensor and using the “floor” operating mode.
Prices for heated floors
warm floor
The entire variety of modern thermostats can be divided into three groups:
- Electromechanical devices are the simplest in design and use. And, of course, the most inexpensive in terms of cost.
All controls for such devices are usually limited to a power key and a setting wheel with a printed temperature scale. A simple indication is provided - an LED indicating whether the power to the heating elements is currently turned on.
The advantages of such devices are simplicity and affordable price. But the accuracy of inserting the temperature mode may be “lame” - however, this is quickly resolved by the user on an intuitive level. And the second drawback, more important, can be considered the lack of ability to program operating modes. That is, significant savings in energy consumption cannot be achieved with an electromechanical thermostat.
- The second group is electronic devices, equipped with a digital display and buttons (sensors) for accurately setting the required heating temperature.
Such devices are certainly more convenient to use, but their functionality is not much different from electromechanical ones. Neither programming capabilities nor non-volatile memory are provided. Apparently, this circumstance limits their popularity. They are already much more expensive than their electromechanical “brothers”. But achieving real savings in energy consumption with them is also not possible.
- The third group is “smart” thermostats, the functionality of which includes many options. They usually have a built-in temperature sensor - it is possible to switch between “floor” and “air” control modes. But the most important thing is that the thermostat can be programmed for several operating modes, both by time during the day and by day, taking into account weekdays and weekends.
For example, the floor warms up in the morning when the owners get up and remains in this state until they leave for work (study). During the day, the system will simply maintain the minimum required temperature value - there is no need to waste energy. But by the time residents arrive home, the most comfortable conditions will again be created.
Several such cycles can be programmed during the day. And taking into account your work schedule, enter in advance the days off when the heating modes will be different. There is always an opportunity to adjust the given settings if certain changes have occurred in the family’s way of life. Or simply - temporarily switch to manual mode. And the programmed modes will be saved in the device’s memory, and you can return to them at any time.
Modern models, in addition, can be equipped remote control from the remote control, or even remotely, via Internet or GSM communication channels.
Most of the models on sale are designed to control a “warm floor” system in one room. But if conditions permit, you can purchase a two-channel device. It is capable of independently controlling heating in adjacent rooms. It is equipped with two remote temperature sensors, and its terminals allow you to connect two heating circuits from one power supply line.
You can also add that in addition to built-in and surface-mounted devices, thermostats with DIN rail installation are also produced.
Prices for thermostats
thermostat for heated floors
But this is not particularly convenient for use in an apartment or house. Unless - there is no need to pull the power line to the location of the thermostat - it is already in the distribution cabinet. But more problems with laying a signal cable from the temperature sensor and “cold ends” from heating cable or swearing. So the winnings are doubtful. And all room regulators have a fairly neat design. So they won’t spoil the interior - they fit perfectly, for example, into groups or switches.
General principles for connecting thermostats to electric heated floors
The optimal place for a thermostat
I place this device on the wall in a place convenient for the user - so that setting modes and visual control does not cause difficulties. True, there are several rules and recommendations that should be followed:
- The thermostat should not be placed in the traditional path of drafts. Do not install it in areas of the wall that are exposed to straight lines. Sun rays from the window. This rule will be even more relevant if the device is equipped with a built-in temperature sensor. That is, it is possible to operate the system with temperature assessment “by air”.
- As a rule, these devices are not located on external walls, that is, in contact with the street.
- The height of the device above the floor level is at least 400 mm. The upper limit is not regulated. But raising the thermostat above the line of sight of an average person is simply unreasonable.
- If the heated floor is installed in a room with high humidity(bathroom, shower, bathhouse, etc.), then the thermostat should be moved to the next room for safety reasons. The housings of most devices do not have the proper class of protection against direct splashes of water or exposure to steam.
- The location of the thermostat on the wall may, to a certain extent, depend on the length of the standard signal cable of the temperature sensor. The temperature sensor itself must be located no less than 500 mm from the wall, centrally between adjacent turns of the heating cable. An exception is film “warm floors”, in which the head of the temperature sensor should be on the black carbon heating strip, also in its center and at the same distance from the wall.
For a built-in thermostat (position 1 in the diagram), a socket is cut out in the wall for a regular socket box with a diameter of 68 mm. True, most craftsmen recommend using not a standard socket box with a depth of 45 mm, but with an increased depth of 60 mm. This is so that the thermostat housing and all groups of wires connected to the terminals fit into it without any problems.
A dedicated power line must be installed in this socket box, taking into account the power of the planned load. As a rule, for electric “warm floors” a cable with a core cross-section of 2.5 mm² is sufficient, which can easily withstand a load of up to 3.5 kW. The line must be protected in a 16 amp distribution panel. (This means, of course, copper wires- aluminum for home use has long been “outlawed”).
A groove is cut from the socket box vertically to the floor (item 2). It will house the “cold ends” connected through couplings (item 3) with a heating cable or mats, and a temperature sensor cable. The depth and width of the grooves are usually made such that two corrugated tubes with a diameter of 10 mm fit in it. One of them will house power wires - “cold ends”, simply for safety reasons. And the second tube is intended for the temperature sensor, and it goes from the wall to the floor (item 4) right up to the point of its installation.
This installation is explained by the fact that temperature sensors fail from time to time. And in order to be able to replace it, it is placed in the pipe. Its cable is quite rigid, and it can be pushed to a considerable length in this channel.
On the floor, the tube with the temperature sensor is located openly if you plan to pour a screed with a thickness of 35÷50 mm. It turns out that the sensor will control the heating temperature of this concrete monolith, which plays the role of an effective heat accumulator. In cases where tiles will be laid directly on the heating mat (some types of systems require this installation method), a groove is cut into the floor surface.
Corrugated tubes are not used only with film electric “warm floors”. There is no screed involved, that is, a failed sensor can be replaced by dismantling a section of the floor covering. Yes, and taking temperature readings here is done a little differently - directly from heating element. This will be dismantled below.
The end of the corrugated tube, so that the solution does not get into it while pouring the screed, is plugged with a plug (item 5). The plug may be included in the kit, or it can be made independently, for example, from several layers of waterproof tape.
The illustration below shows a thermostat kit. In addition to the temperature sensor, it includes not only a piece of corrugated pipe, but also a plug for it.
Moreover, pay attention to one interesting nuance. The manufacturer completes the set with a brass plug. It is into this that the head of the temperature sensor, that is, the temperature-sensitive element itself, should fit. Due to the high thermal conductivity of the metal, the readings taken by the sensor are more correct in this case.
Thermostat connection diagram
Any thermostat, if it was purchased in a store, is accompanied by detailed instructions by connecting it. But you can easily figure out the switching of wires at the terminals of the device yourself, focusing on the markings of the contacts. Despite the wide variety of models, most retain approximately the same layout. So we can look at it with an example.
- The first pair of contacts (1 and 2) is for connecting the supply voltage. Please note - for correct operation of the thermostat it is important correct installation phase (L) and zero (N). That's why it's important to follow the color coding of the wires when laying the wiring - you'll never get confused.
- The second pair (3 and 4) is for connecting the load, that is, the heating elements of the “warm floor”. Usually the value of the maximum permissible current is also indicated - in this case it is 16 amperes.
- The third pair of contacts (6 and 7) is for connecting the wires of the temperature sensor signal cable. The location of the conductors does not matter here. And there is also a signature indicating the parameters of the temperature sensor - its resistance at a temperature of +25 °C is 10 kOhm.
By the way, before installation it is never a bad idea to check with an ohmmeter whether the specified resistance corresponds to the real one. If there is a coincidence (± 5-10%), then the sensor is working properly and can be safely reinstalled. If the resulting value is clearly different, this may indicate a sensor malfunction. And it’s better to replace it right away so you don’t have to deal with it later.
So, there is no wisdom, everything is simple. But when making switching, special care is still required.
A common mistake made by inexperienced users is that the power wires are installed at the load connection terminals. After applying voltage, the thermostat with a probability close to 100% will fail.
Before connecting, it never hurts to once again check the instructions and the printed symbols. The fact is that some models of thermostats have a different order of terminals. In particular, first two zeros, power supply and load are located nearby, and then two phase contacts in the same order. And if you apply the “stereotypical” connection diagram shown above, this will mean a guaranteed short circuit.
Where should I put the ground wire?
It is not common, but there are models of thermostats in which a separate terminal is allocated for connecting the ground wire and the shielding braid of the heating cable.
But more often they act differently. The green-yellow conductor of the power cable is connected to the shielding braid through a terminal or crimp sleeve directly to each other, directly. And this connection is placed in the space of the socket box.
Modern models of thermostats, for example, with remote and remote control, may have additional terminals for connecting communication channels or other devices. This option is not considered, as it is somewhat beyond the scope of our article. In such a case, you should strictly follow the attached instructions. Or, if there is no experience with such robots, it is better to invite a specialist.
Examples of connecting a heated floor thermostat - step by step
This section of the article examines three examples, each of which has its own characteristics.
Test connection of thermostat RTC 70.26
This example was chosen because such a thermostat is perhaps the most popular model. When installing it, there are a number of nuances that you should know in advance. A trial switching is shown to check the functionality of the device, that is, for now without permanent installation in the socket box. But the operation of the thermostat is well and very clearly demonstrated.
| Illustration | |
|---|---|
 | So, a very popular model due to its cost (less than 1000 rubles) and sufficient reliability and unpretentiousness is RTC 70.26. A test connection and functional check will be carried out. The role of the connected load will be an incandescent lamp (standing on the table). |
 | Rear view - on the body there are terminals for connecting pairs of wires. The mounting frame with arc-shaped slots is clearly visible - for mounting the thermostat in a standard socket box. |
 | A feature of this model, and a very inconvenient one, is that before disassembling the thermostat, you must remove the installation wheel. You have to pry it off with a screwdriver and move it progressively upward along the axis. |
 | Hidden under the wheel is a screw that secures the cover to the device body. It is shown in the photo with a screwdriver. There is no need to touch the right screw - it is just a wheel rotation limiter. |
 | After unscrewing the screw, the cover is carefully removed with a progressive upward movement. |
 | This is the nuance. The wheel rotates on a plastic axis, which, after removing the cover, is very easily removed from its socket. You need to be careful because: - the axle can be broken by careless movement; - such small details have harmful property fall out and roll into the most inaccessible places, so that they are not easy to find later. So it’s better to carefully pull it out yourself and put it in a safe place. |
 | Frame with mounting holes. Naturally, during actual installation, one should be installed first - all the wires will pass through its window... |
 | ...and then the thermostat itself will be placed on top of it. As you can clearly see, their mounting holes coincide. |
 | Let's move on to switching. First you need to loosen the screws in all the terminals that will be used. When working with terminals, use a screwdriver with a narrow (3 mm) blade so as not to damage the plastic edges of the round sockets. |
 | The power line wires are connected to terminals 1 and 2. It is important not to forget to observe the correct location of zero and phase - this is indicated on the housing near each of the terminals. In this case, just to test the thermostat, connect a piece of cable with a power plug, which will be plugged into the socket during testing. |
 | Wires going to the load are connected to terminals 3 and 4. Instead of a heated floor circuit, an incandescent lamp will be used for the test. |
 | Finally, the ends of the temperature sensor signal cable are installed and clamped into terminals 6 and 7. Their relative position does not matter. |
 | The connection is complete. Please note that the wires suitable for the terminals may be multi-wire, and it is not advisable to directly clamp their stripped ends, since the contact may be initially unreliable and may weaken over time. All such wires are immediately put into terminal lugs and crimped. An exception is the copper wires of the power line, if they are single-core. But if stranded wire is used there too (for example, PVA 3x2.5), then lugs are definitely needed. |
 | Let's imagine that the thermostat is connected, installed in a socket box, and needs to be assembled. |
 | First, the plastic axle is carefully inserted into its socket. You need to feel that its lower slot fits into the existing connection on the board. |
 | After this, the top cover is put on. The switch key should fit into its window, the axle should go through the hole. |
 | Next, the cover is secured with a screw. The plastic is quite fragile, so you should not try to tighten the screw tightly - this can cause a crack or even a break under the head. |
 | Carefully place it on the axle and push the temperature setting wheel all the way down. You can immediately check that it is installed correctly - the mark printed on it should move within the range of the printed scale. |
 | Everything is ready for testing. The power wires are connected to the network. The start key switches to top position– “on”. |
 | Nothing happens - there is no power to the load. But this is because the temperature on the regulator is currently set at only 10 degrees, and in the room it is clearly higher. It is clear that the temperature sensor does not give a command to turn on. |
 | Let's try to move the regulator to the 30 degree mark. Yes, the light came on, that is, the thermostat turned on power to the load, which is what it was supposed to do! |
 | Let's start gradually decreasing the value set temperature on the regulator. When a level is reached lower than the actual temperature in the room, the thermostat will turn off - no heating is required. It is obvious that the device is working correctly. |
You can slightly modify the experiment. Set the heating level to 30 degrees, and then hold the head of the temperature sensor in your palm. Since the human body temperature is higher, when the heating level reaches more than 30 degrees, the thermostat must turn off the power.
But all this was shown more for a better understanding of the principle of connection and operation of the thermostat. Now we need to look at the process of installing this device, as they say, locally.
Prices for film heated floors
film heated floor
Switching and installation of the electronic thermostat in its original place
This example shows the process of connecting and installing a thermostat for an electric cable “warm floor”. The heating elements have been laid and screeded for a long time. The walls of the room have even been finished. The socket box is built in, and all the cables and wires necessary for connection are brought into it.
Naturally, before starting work, you should check again whether the power line going to the heated floor is de-energized - the machine must be turned off.
An electronic “DEVIreg Touch” thermostat is used, the removable cover of which is also a touch digital display. It is attached to the case with latches, simultaneously connecting with it through the existing connector.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operations performed |
|---|---|
 | The socket box opens if it was covered during finishing. The wires are routed out. So, there are three types of wires - a copper monocore VVG 3×2.5 power cable, a two-core heating cable in a shielded braid, and a temperature sensor signal cable. |
 | All wires are cut so that they extend from the socket box beyond the wall level by 80÷100 mm - this is enough. |
 | To begin with, it is best to immediately deal with grounding. It is necessary to connect the green-yellow wire of the power cable with the copper shielding braid of the heating cable. The connection will be made using the “Wago” terminal. Since the braid consists of many thin wires, for a quality connection in the terminal it must be tinned. |
 | The end of the braid is carefully twisted tightly, treated with flux, and then coated thin layer solder. |
 | The green/yellow ground wire end of the power cable is stripped. It's best to do this special tool– insulation stripper. |
 | Then both prepared conductors are alternately inserted and clamped into the “Wago” terminal. |
 | After this, the wires are carefully bent, and this connecting unit is put away in the socket box. |
 | The terminal should be located at the very bottom of the socket box. As already mentioned, for a thermostat it is better to use an increased depth socket box. The grounding connection is complete. |
 | The remaining wires are being prepared for connection. Their ends are stripped of insulation, approximately 8÷10 mm. |
 | Since the “cold ends” of the heating cable have a multi-wire structure, for a high-quality connection in the screw terminals of the thermostat, they should be “dressed” with crimp lugs. |
 | The single-core wires of the VVG power cable will fit perfectly into the terminal without any lugs. Thermal sensor wires may have terminal lugs installed at the factory. However, just here there is practically no load, so you can get by with tinning the ends - that will be enough. If you have tips of the required diameter, you can install them. The main thing is that the end of the wires is not fluffy, so that good contact is ensured. |
 | If all the wires are prepared, you can proceed to their connections. The order in which the pairs are connected does not matter. In this example, the wizard began by connecting the temperature sensor cable. As stated earlier, mutual arrangement Thermal sensor wires in terminals (NTS) are not regulated. The wires are inserted into the terminals and tightened with screws. By applying a pulling force, the reliability of their fixation is checked. |
 | Next, the “cold ends” of the heating cable, dressed in lugs, are inserted into the terminals and then tightened. Here the color marking of the conductors is already observed. Please note: this is exactly the example shown when the power and heating cable wires are installed “in a cross” - two phases side by side, and then two zeros. It is important to pay very close attention to this, focusing on the markings. |
 | After this, the power wires are inserted into their terminals and clamped, also in strict accordance with color coded and marked symbols. |
 | All wires are connected. To be sure, you can go through it again and check the quality of tightening of the contacts on all terminals. |
 | Now the thermostat housing needs to be carefully inserted into the socket box. To avoid interfering with the wires, which have quite significant rigidity, proceed as follows. First, take the device as shown in the illustration. |
 | Then carefully turn it upward so that all the wires below receive the first uniform bend. |
 | After this, use your index fingers on both sides to press the wires to back side thermostat housing... |
 | ...and the device itself is turned a little backwards. |
 | The result should be a zigzag bend of all the wires... |
 | ...and the thermostat will easily fit into the socket box. |
 | If necessary, it is leveled horizontally using a building level... |
 | ...and then fixed to the socket box with self-tapping screws. Craftsmen recommend using not the self-tapping screws that come with the kit, but slightly longer ones, 25 or 30 mm - this will be more reliable. After installing the screws, check the evenness of the installation again - and then tighten them completely. |
 | That's it, the device body is installed, all that remains is to attach the front touch panel to it. There are no difficulties here - it is installed in place and carefully slides forward until the latches engage. |
 | That's it, the thermostat is installed. If conditions permit, you can turn on the power and conduct a test run of the “warm floor” system. Well, then – setting up and programming the device, in accordance with the instruction manual attached to it. |
It can be added that the start-up of the “warm floor” system, if the heaters are covered with a screed, can only be done after it has fully gained strength. It is completely unacceptable to “stimulate” the hardening and maturation of concrete by turning on the heating. And even after the screed and floor covering are completely ready, the start-up is still not carried out at the same time at the design power. It is necessary to start, for example, by heating to 15 degrees, and then daily increase the temperature by 5 degrees until the planned mode is achieved. This ensures the smoothest possible adaptation of all components of the “warm floor cake” to normal operation at elevated temperatures.
Connecting a thermostat to a film “warm floor”
Finally, in the third example, the connection of the thermostat to a floor heating system with infrared film elements is dismantled. There are differences in the installation of the temperature sensor, and the thermostat itself will be installed not on a solid wall, but on a rigid cladding (MDF lining).
The example shows personal experience the work of the author of this article.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operations performed |
|---|---|
 | For the heated floor in this example, 3 were purchased linear meters film heater "Teplonog" made in South Korea. Specific power – 220 W/m². that is, with a film width of 500 mm, the total maximum power of the entire floor surface heating system will be only 330 W. Laying will be carried out in small room private house. The room is a former children's room. The former because my daughter has grown to student age. |
 | In this case, nothing more is required. “Warm floor” is created solely to increase the level of comfort, and not to replace the existing water heating system. It is planned to place the heaters in two lines. The longer, two-meter one (item 4) covers the area from the front door through the center of the room to desk(item 2). The second, meter-long section (item 3) will be located along the bed (item 1). After installing the heating system, the floor will be covered with laminate. |
 | A power cable was installed from a dedicated machine located in an adjacent room. I had to break through the wall and remove some of the cladding to get the wires through. It was decided to leave the high shelf on the left wall - it is behind its lining made of MDF lining that the power wire will pass, and the thermostat with a parallel-connected socket will be located in the area shown by the blue arrow. Film heaters do not require connection to grounding, so PVS 2×1.5 wires are used. With such a low power of the heaters and considering that the outlet is intended for charging gadgets, this is quite enough. For the future installation of a thermostat and socket, two have been temporarily removed here cladding panels– after a small alteration, windows will be cut out in them for installing socket boxes. |
 | The floor surface, carefully leveled with OSB sheets, is covered with a foil-coated polyethylene foam backing. All joints are taped with foil tape. The illustration clearly shows the area where the thermostat will be installed. The cladding panels have been shortened - a small niche-shelf will be installed there. Windows are cut out in the panels and socket boxes are installed (as for drywall - with presser feet at the back). The socket is immediately installed and connected to the power cable. From it comes a piece of cable that will be connected to the thermostat. The installation height of the socket boxes in this case was 450 mm, with an acceptable minimum of 400 mm. A small arched window is cut out under the panel with the socket (shown by the arrow) - the wires of the “warm floor” and the temperature sensor will pass through it. |
 | Switching of heating film elements will be carried out according to the following scheme: 1 – temperature sensor; 2 – points of connection to the busbars of phase wires; 3 – connection points for neutral wires; 4 – points of insulation of the remaining unused cut ends of the buses. All the wires do not intersect anywhere and converge at one point - they must pass through the cut out arched window. |
 | The heating film is cut into two fragments, which are placed in their designated places. The “copper” side of the tires should face down. |
 | Along the long edges, the heaters are fixed to the floor surface with strips of construction tape. |
 | First of all, the cut ends of the busbars, which will not be used in switching, are insulated. For this purpose, special rubber-bitumen-based linings are used, which came complete with the film. On one side, the protective paper backing is removed... |
 | ...then the insulating pad is glued to the bottom of the busbar... |
 | ...bends and squeezes tightly. And so on at all four points in accordance with the diagram. |
 | To prevent the insulation areas from protruding upward above the surface of the film, a neat window is cut out in the foil backing exactly along the contour of the insulating pad. |
 | Next, switching the power supply to the film heaters begins. For this purpose, wires are used, also included in the “warm floor” kit. |
 | Special terminal contacts are inserted into the busbar cuts. To do this, you can slightly push the gap between the two layers of film with a screwdriver. |
 | The upper contact blade is inserted into this slot... |
 | ...and the bottom one is first simply pressed with a finger... |
 | ...and then finally crimped with pliers. And so - at all points, according to the diagram, where the wires will be connected. |
 | Then, again, strictly according to the diagram, wires are connected to these terminals. Their ends, stripped of insulation, are inserted into the terminal, and then its petals are sequentially crimped with pliers. |
 | After crimping the terminal, it is insulated with the same rubber-bitumen pads. Only one is glued on the bottom, as shown in the illustration... |
 | ...and the second one is counter-on top. After careful compression, a neat insulating “cocoon” is obtained. |
 | A window is also cut out for it in the foil backing. In addition, in order to “sink” the wire, a groove is cut for it. Operations are repeated in a similar manner at all wire connection points, according to the diagram. |
 | It's time to install the temperature sensor. It will be located in the center of the black heating strip, pressed against it from below (the location is shown by the arrow). |
 | Reliable fixation is ensured by a strip of reinforced construction tape. |
 | For the signal cable, a groove is cut in the substrate, and for the temperature sensor head we even had to make a small recess in the plywood floor covering. |
 | The switching of the heaters is completed, all the wires converge at one point - they dive under the cladding. |
 | And the film heaters are finally around the perimeter, and all the grooves with laid wires are “sealed” with strips of construction tape. |
 | The wires are wound behind the cladding, and you can begin installing the thermostat. |
 | The wires used are stranded, so crimp terminal lugs were installed on all ends stripped of insulation. |
 | The wires are passed through the windows cut into the socket box... |
 | ...and then the panel with the socket box is installed in its place and finally secured there. |
 | The following thermostat will be installed, electronic type with the ability to weekly program the operating modes of the “warm floor”. |
 | First of all, it needs to be disassembled. |
 | First, the facing frame is removed - it is secured with latches and is easy to dismantle. And the thermostat itself must be removed from the metal support. It is fixed on it with a movable metal bracket - it is clearly visible in the photograph. |
 | This bracket is moved upward with a screwdriver and enters from the ground with the caliper. |
 | Caliper and thermostat after disassembly. |
 | The caliper is immediately put into place - secured with self-tapping screws to the socket. Wires are passed through it. |
 | The location of the terminals on the thermostat is nothing special, a standard layout. |
 | First of all, the contacts of the temperature sensor cable are connected. |
 | Then - the load wires, that is, coming from the heating film elements. And finally, the power cable wires - their connection simply did not make it into the frame. |
 | Before final installation It makes sense to replace the thermostat in place to check the functionality of the assembled system. |
 | To do this, the machine turns on, that is, power is supplied, and the inscription “Off” appears on the thermostat display - turned off. So far everything is going according to plan. |
 | The thermostat turns on. But heating does not start, since the work was carried out in the summer, in hot weather, and the factory presets on the device are 24 degrees. On the right side of the screen are the actual temperature readings on the temperature sensor, and this is more than 28 degrees. Therefore, for the experiment, we have to temporarily set the heating level to 33 degrees. And the “warm floor” works instantly - a heating icon appears on the indicator (indicated by an arrow), and bare feet feel a rapid rise in temperature on the floor. Everything is working! |
 | You can turn off the system, just in case - temporarily de-energize it and finally install the thermostat. Installing it is no longer difficult - it is attached to the caliper, and then the decorative frame is installed. After this, the power to this line was turned back on. The thermostat will be in the off position until it gets cold, but the outlet may well be used for its intended purpose. |
 | And finally, to logically complete this example, it is shown what ultimately happened after laying the laminate and final finishing thermostat installation area. |
* * * * * * *
So, the publication discussed in detail examples of installing an electric floor heating thermostat. The only things that fell out of sight were those related to fine tuning and programming of such devices. But this is done intentionally so as not to cause confusion. It’s just that different models may have their own characteristics, and there are no universal “recipes”. Therefore, here you will have to strictly follow the instructions supplied with the thermostat. Or look for more detailed description programming operations performed on the Internet.
As an example, we can recommend watching detailed video instructions posted on YouTube by one of the users. By the way, the fine tuning of the model is demonstrated, almost completely coinciding with the installation shown in the last example.
Video: Setting up the E51 series programmable thermostat
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Underfloor heating systems in Lately have become quite common. They not only increase comfort, but also serve as a good addition to the main heating system. For efficient but economical operation of the heated floor, it is necessary to install a thermostat that turns the system on or off. You can see what it looks like in the photo.
Connecting a thermostat to a heated (water) floor is not necessary, although its use contributes to more economical coolant consumption. As for electrical and infrared systems, the installation of a thermostat is essential for their operation.
Types of thermostats
These devices can be simple or complex. In simple mechanical devices, only one parameter is set - heating temperature. Complex ones have software control and an electronic display; with their help, you can configure the operation of the floor heating system, for example, turning it on and off at certain times.Connecting an electric heated floor to the controller
Heating elements can be represented by electric mats or infrared film. The installation of an electric heated floor is simple: it is laid either in the thickness of the screed or on it. Lays on top flooring. As for how to connect a heated floor to a thermostat, the work is carried out as follows.Before choosing the place where the thermostat will be located. Should be next to him electrical network at 220 V. Between the power supply and the thermostat it is necessary to leave space for the location of the circuit breaker.
When creating an electric heated floor, you need to provide space for a temperature sensor. It is usually placed near the thermostat. It is unacceptable to cover it with furniture.
If an infrared film acts as a heating element in a heated floor system, then the temperature sensor is installed on its reverse side.
In the case when it is used to heat the floor electrical cable, which is laid in the thickness of the screed, then the temperature sensor is removed from the concrete, placing it together with the inside of the corrugated pipe. As a result, one end of the pipe is located in the thickness of the screed, and the other is brought out to the wall so that, if necessary, the faulty sensor can be removed and replaced without removing the floor covering.
After completing the installation of the electrical system, markings are applied at the place where the thermostat will be installed. The connection diagram for the heated floor controller will help with this. If the device is built-in, then a niche is made at its future location (read also: " "). To install the overhead device, use self-tapping screws and dowels.
Please ensure that the power of the heating element of the underfloor heating system and the thermostat are compatible with each other. The load on the heating element must be less than the maximum power of the thermostat.
Then connect the element wiring to the device terminals. It is imperative to follow the order of connecting the phases; the connection diagram for the heated floor thermostat will help with this. On most devices, the neutral zero is designated by the letter “N”, and the phases by “F” and “L”. In addition, the phases are also indicated by the color of the wires. The zero of these usually has Blue colour, and the phase wire is white, black or brown. Read also: "".
- set the minimum temperature on the device;
- served for meals;
- turn on the heating toggle switch;
- smoothly change the temperature, while it is worth paying attention to the fact that when the heating elements turn on, there should be a click;
- check the floor heating.
Connecting a water floor system to a thermostat
Connecting a heated floor to a thermostat in this case is not necessary, but this device allows you to save on coolant. In hydronic systems, the thermostat controls the flow of water. Sensors for water floors, as well as for electric ones, can be simple or complex (programmable). Thermal sensors in water systems usually measure the temperature of the air in the room. You can see what such devices look like in the photo.When installing a water heated floor, the temperature sensor is fixed at a height of about 100 centimeters; it can be placed next to the thermostat. But we must take into account that there should be no additional heating sources near the sensor.
After it has been installed, wires are drawn from it to the thermostat. You can buy sensors to which information is transmitted via radio, but in this case you need to make sure that the signal has good passability.
After the underfloor heating system has been started, you need to place a regular thermometer next to the temperature sensor and set the required heating temperature on the regulator. The underfloor heating system should maintain stable performance for several hours. After testing the heated floor for normal performance, you can use them. The thermostat makes it possible to set the required temperature and thereby save on coolant.
There is nothing complicated about how to connect a floor heating regulator. But you need to follow the instructions exactly and follow the scheme for performing this work. In addition, the connection must be made with the electricity turned off - this is required by safety regulations. As a result of installing a heated floor system, within a few hours you will notice how much more comfortable the house has become.
A thermostat or programmer can be connected. These devices help to automatically regulate the temperature in the house or turn the boiler on and off at a given time.
Boilers with mechanical control do not have the ability to connect an electronic thermostat.
Most often there is a need to maintain the required air temperature in a room without human intervention. A room thermostat is used for this purpose. In the article we will talk about the operating principle of this device and explain how to connect a thermostat to a gas boiler.
Benefits of using the device
If we already talk about the advantages, then we will describe the difference between the operation of a boiler with and without a thermostat.
Without thermostat
How does the boiler operate in normal mode? We set the desired temperature with the control knob and enjoy the warmth. But what happens when it gets cold outside? The temperature in the room also drops. It didn’t seem to be a big deal - I went and put another one on the boiler temperature regime. It became hot - reduced it, and the boiler continues to work, turning on and off.
With thermostat
Now let's imagine how a boiler works with an electronic thermostat connected to it. The boiler will heat the coolant until the room temperature reaches the set temperature and only then turn off. It will not turn on until the air temperature drops below the set limit. Then the process is repeated again.
Advantages
By installing even the most primitive thermostat, you can save from 15 to 30% of gas.
The automation of the room heating process itself is already a significant advantage, but some other points can be highlighted:
- The boiler will not turn on if during the daytime the sun's rays warm the room and maintain the desired temperature.
- There are many people in the room and because of them the air temperature does not drop.
- The boiler automation wears out less, as switching on occurs less frequently.
- There is no large temperature difference in the room, since minimum threshold thermostat response can be 0.25°C.
- Ability to change settings.
- After turning off the boiler circulation pump It works for some time, preventing boiling of the coolant, and does not turn on until the boiler starts working.
- Anyone can handle the settings.
If we talk about the disadvantages, we can highlight only one - in a wireless thermostat you need to periodically change the batteries, a supply of which should always be on hand.
Even this brief overview This is enough to understand that purchasing and installing a thermostat is a wise investment that will more than pay for itself in a short period of time.
Device selection
The choice of device must be approached intelligently. Often people buy a device with a considerable number of options that they then never use. What to consider? Let's look at this in more detail.
A remote thermostat can be wired or wireless.
- The presence of a wire eliminates the need for batteries, but such a connection will bring a lot of other problems when the device needs to be installed in an adjacent room. Lay the wire along the wall or drill for it through hole Not The best decision for a room after renovation (or if there are no plans to carry out renovations there in the near future).
- The wireless sensor not only does not require connection, but can also be moved to any other room. Even before purchasing, it is important to know the range of the device and how it works through walls. For example, some cheap sensors work reliably only in the line of sight, but if the situation changes or if they are far away, they may lose the ability to transmit a signal to a module installed near the boiler.
- Purchasing a device from the same company that manufactured the boiler will help you avoid some connection problems.
As already mentioned, it would be good if the device was purchased for an installed boiler from the same manufacturer. Most good combination It turned out from the famous brands Baxi (baxi), Protherm (Proterm) and Vaillant (Vailant). In the illustrations below you can see the variety of these devices.
Adjustment method
Controls can be:
- in the form of buttons, and all data is displayed on an electronic display;
- Mechanical control implies the presence of a regulator with indicators printed on it.
Functions
Thermostats can be simple or multifunctional.
- Simple device can only maintain the room temperature preset in its settings.
- Programmable thermostat has a rich set of functions. It can be configured by changing the boiler parameters remotely, setting the desired temperature conditions at different times of the day. You can also set settings for each day of the week.
- Thermostat with integrated hydrostat function will allow you to control, maintain and change the microclimate of the room by changing the humidity level.
About the manufacturers
Thermal sensors from IMIT and Siemens are very popular. They differ not only in functionality, but also in the connection method. It is quite clear that more functional models are more expensive. To make it more clear, we made a comparative analysis, the results of which you can see in the table below.
The cost of the product is given in rubles, but only for comparative analysis. Since prices are constantly changing, at the time of purchase, accurate data can be obtained on the manufacturer’s website or from the sales company.
Installation and connection
And now, when the equipment has been selected and purchased, you can begin to install it. First, let's look at recommendations for sensor placement.
Choosing a location for the sensor
The correct and efficient operation of the entire heating system depends on where the sensor is placed, so the following rules must be taken into account:
- The recommended installation of the sensor above the floor is 1.5 m. We all know that the room is heated unevenly with any heating system, be it classical system or heated floor. If you neglect this rule, the sensor will control the boiler in a different temperature mode.
- It is not recommended to attach the sensor to an external wall, since it is always colder than the walls inside the room.
- The sensor does not need to be installed in a remote place or hidden behind any objects - air should circulate freely near it. But you need to beware of the other extreme - the device should not be in the area of drafts.
- The place for installing the device should not be near heating devices or near air conditioning, windows or entrance doors. It should not be exposed to direct sunlight.
Such an abundance of restrictions and regulations may seem too much, but in fact there is nothing complicated here, you just need to remember this when choosing a location for the thermostat sensor.
First of all, you need to disconnect the boiler from the power supply in order to protect yourself and the boiler electronics when performing work.
If the control unit will be installed inside the boiler, then you need to find a appropriate place. If there is such a need, you can use an installation box to mount the unit.
In order to connect the control unit to the boiler, you do not need special knowledge, but you will have to understand the circuit.
The red arrow shows the current path through the circuit. Entering pin L, it passes along the board and leaves it through pin Tb2, in which a jumper is installed connecting it to pin Tb1. Through this contact, the current returns to the board and controls the operation of the boiler, turning it on or off.
Now you need to download the diagram of your boiler from the Internet and check whether it has the ability to connect a thermostat. If you find the inscription “Room thermostat” on it (the name may differ slightly in different boiler models), then it is possible to connect a thermostat.
If you have a floor-standing boiler, then this check must be performed before purchasing a thermostat.
Let's return to the jumper installed between contacts Tb1 and Tb2. In many boilers it is located on a separate block (photo above), but in some models you will have to look for it on the board.
Having unscrewed the screws holding the jumper, you need to pull it out, and instead screw in a 0.75 m 2 wire that will connect the boiler board to the thermostat control unit (or to a wired thermostat). As you can see, in the diagram the thermostat contacts are open.
According to the thermostat circuit, we need a pair of normally open contacts - these are COM and NO. Usually this is the marking that is present on the connected unit.
If the block has different markings or is missing at all, then the contacts can be checked with a tester. One electrode is pressed against the middle contact, and the side ones are checked in turn with the second. We need a pair of open contacts.
Depending on the design, the unit is connected to the network or batteries are inserted into it.
Adjustment
You need to check how the thermostat behaves. To do this, certain parameters are set on it, and see how the boiler reacts to the commands sent by the thermostat. If everything is in order, then you can perform the final setup. How to do this is described in the product data sheet.
To ensure that the system works correctly and without failure, take into account the following recommendations:
- If you work shifts, it is better to purchase a programmable thermostat and adjust it so that the minimum permissible temperature in the room is maintained during your absence.
- When going on vacation or leaving home for a long time, switch the heating to economical mode and, just in case, install fresh batteries in the device.
- Don't wait until the batteries become unusable - change them early.
- Connect the boiler and control unit through the stabilizer.
Epilogue
A thermostat will make your life easier, and by installing it yourself, you will save a lot and will know what to do with it if it breaks. We hope this article serves as a good guide for you.
Video
This video shows how to connect to the boiler room thermostat or programmer:
Watch a video about installing the T-Control thermostat-programmer to work with gas boiler Ariston:
Today, “warm” floors are becoming increasingly widespread as an alternative to traditional convection additional heating of rooms. And if in country houses they are most popular cable systems, then the owners of city apartments prefer to use film, infrared coatings.
However, to automate and increase energy efficiency of work, operation of any electrical systems warm floor is impractical. Available today various systems control the temperature regime of the heated floor, which you can simply connect yourself.
To connect, you will need a minimum of tools that are usually used when performing electrical work:
- Screwdriver Set;
- side cutters with insulated handles;
- indicator screwdriver;
- pliers;
- Maybe .
The sequence of installation and connection of the thermostatic device is as follows:
- Before installing the floor, it is necessary to determine the location where the thermostat will be located, to which it is necessary to supply mains power with a voltage of 220.0 volts. Typically, a regular power outlet is used for connection.
- When laying the cable, determine the installation location of the temperature sensor. The temperature sensor should be located on a functionally important area of the floor of the living room, free from furniture. To reduce the length of the connecting wires, the sensor should be placed in close proximity to the control unit.
- When installing floors with a cable heater, which is poured concrete screed the wire connecting the control and measuring unit to the temperature sensor must be laid in a corrugated pipe. Thanks to this, the temperature sensor can be easily removed and replaced if it fails.
- When laying a film heater, the temperature sensor is simply glued with special tape to the underside of the film.
- After completing the installation of the heating element, install the regulator in place and connect the sensors to it. In order to avoid punching grooves in the wall when laying a film heater, the wire along the wall can be laid in a special decorative trim.
- In the case of independent installation of a heated floor, when the heating cable was purchased separately from the thermoregulatory device, when connecting it, it is necessary to determine maximum power consumed by the heater. If it is less than that allowed for switching by thermostat contacts, then the cable is connected directly to the device. If the heater power exceeds the maximum permissible switching power, then it is necessary to install an intermediate magnetic starter, the contacts of which will turn the cable on and off.
- Connecting the cable to and the temperature sensor to the thermostat, and the temperature control unit itself to the network, is carried out in accordance with the installation instructions for the specific model.
- After connecting the heating cable and the wires of the remote sensor, perform a test switch on of the device.
Test sequence
The advantage and comfort of using heated floors is unlikely to be fully experienced if the installation and connection of the temperature control device is carried out incorrectly or with defects. In this case, trial activation and verification are a very important step.
They are carried out under the control of the home owner, who must be sure that the electric floor heating system can subsequently be left unattended.
The check and test run sequence is as follows:
- check the reliability of contact connections;
- the unit is supplied with supply voltage from a household network with a voltage of 220.0 volts;
- installed on the control panel of the device minimum value temperature;
- turn on the toggle switch to supply voltage to the heating element;
- set the maximum temperature regime, and a characteristic click should be heard in the device, indicating the closure of the switching contacts;
- During the day, the reliability of operation in various modes is checked.
Device and connection diagram Connecting an electronic thermostat to a hydronic floor heating system
When using a thermostat to control a underfloor heating system, it controls the temperature and is the switch for the servo drive that controls the flow hot water. General scheme Installation of the thermostat is similar to the sequence of installing a thermostat for an electric heated floor. However, there are certain nuances here.
The sequence of installation operations for a water heating system is as follows:
- The remote temperature sensor is installed in close proximity to the control unit, at a height of 1.0...1.2 meters above the floor level.
- Lay circuits to power the thermostat and connect the temperature sensor to the device;
- If electrical control of the servo drive is provided with a wired connection directly from the device controller, lay a cable from the servo drive to the thermostat;
- If the servo drive is controlled wirelessly, adjust the radio control unit;
- Checking the temperature in various areas of the living room is carried out using a conventional thermometer. To do this, set the thermostat to the desired temperature mode and after 2…3 hours measure the temperature near the device and in the place furthest from it. The thermometer readings should have minimal differences.
In conclusion, it should be noted that the majority modern models thermostats are universal devices. They can be successfully used not only for heated floors, but also for automating the operation of electric boilers.
