Installing lining with your own hands in a wooden house. Lining for cladding: how to choose and what to do with it next

Lining is a real eco-friendly material

Over the past twenty years, lining as a finishing material gained unprecedented popularity. At the same time, its qualities were appreciated by everyone, from large repair companies to those who prefer to do the finishing themselves and know how to lay lining.

Lining - ease of installation and high environmental friendliness

This article will talk about how to properly lay lining, showing that this process very simple.

Judge for yourself:

Easy installation;
Natural wood in the material;
Outer beauty;
Surfaces are visually leveled;
It is very convenient for finishing not only houses and cottages, but also.

It is noteworthy that this material behaves well when covering baths and saunas, because there, in conditions of too high temperatures and high humidity, using any other material is harmful to health.

Manufacturing of lining

To obtain lining sheets, it is customary to use special machines used in woodworking, which are distinguished by four sides and high manufacturability. Thanks to this equipment, it is possible to produce products with different profiles and thicknesses.

In addition, depending on the quality of processing and the type of wood, the resulting lining can be divided into grades according to European standards - grades from Extra to C.

A little more about the classification:

Extra. These are perfect boards, there are no knots or mechanical damage on them. Humidity is 8%;

Premium grade, marked “A”. This is enough smooth boards, no mechanical damage (chips and cracks), no blue discoloration. As a tolerance, there is a small knot here, provided that it is light.
Standard variety, marked “B”. This is wood without blue stains, well processed, no cracks. As a tolerance - light and dark knots.
Economy variety, marked “C”. Here, in addition to knots, small chips are possible, as well as cracks, the size of which is up to 0.3 mm.
All varieties have a moisture content of no more than 12%.
The lining can be divided depending on the type of wood. The most commonly used are pine, spruce, linden, aspen, and larch. Oak, maple and other species are used a little less frequently.

Most often, pine and spruce are used to produce lining. This is due to their beautiful golden-hued texture, as well as ease of processing and durability.

A noble material for the production of lining is, which grows over a large geographical area up to the Far East.

However, mass production of linings from this type of wood has not been observed due to the fact that the production of linings here is somewhat complicated by technological features.

Very popular types of wood for use are linden and aspen. Often it is linden lining used for finishing baths, where the use of other species is not possible.

Installation of lining

Preparation stage

Cutting lining

Before starting work, it is necessary to calculate all surface areas where the lining is planned to be laid.
Next, you should purchase the number of boards that is required according to calculations. Be sure to add a small amount to this amount in the amount of ten percent of the total.
When choosing planks, it is advisable to choose their length so that possible cuts are minimal, this will save money.
If we are talking about the interior decoration of residential premises, then you will need spruce or pine lining, its width can be from 80 to 110 cm, and its thickness in the range of 12-16 mm.
The humidity of the lining should not exceed 12%, since during shrinkage and drying, cracks may form, as a result of which the boards themselves will diverge in the future.

The next stage is to determine the option for laying the lining. If we are talking about sheathing small room With high ceiling, then the material should be laid horizontally. If the walls are too high, vertical masonry should be used to simplify the task and save material. Sometimes a herringbone installation method is used, but it is most often used when decorating exterior walls.

An important stage is the preparation of the lining itself, which must be unpacked and laid in the room where it is planned to be laid, so that the material undergoes so-called acclimatization and is not subject to further deformation.

Installation of sheathing

Before you start decorating the sheathing frame, you should level the walls as much as possible. For example, if a surface made of unrounded logs is used as a basis for laying the frame, the protruding parts of the logs must be cut down with an ax and then leveled with a plane.

It is important! Before making the sheathing, bars measuring 50x40 (or 30) mm should be treated with an antiseptic.

Having completed the preparation, you should begin installing the sheathing. The technology most often used is to lay the lining in a vertical position, and we will consider it when starting to carry out the sheathing.

The lower beam is installed at the floor level, and the upper beam at the ceiling level.
The evenness of their installation can be checked using a level or plumb line.
The laces should be pulled between the beams at the corners, and then one more is added to them in increments of 1.5 meters.
The bars should be fastened at a distance of 90-100 cm between them using self-tapping screws. If there are irregularities on the wall, you should level the sheathing in one plane using pads under the bars. But the use of self-tapping screws is mandatory.

Attention! To install the bars on stone walls(brick), they should be secured using plastic dowels and self-tapping screws. It is also possible to use wooden plugs.

Installing lining on the wall

The lining should be laid from the corner of the room, and the most careful attention should be paid to installing the first plank, leveling its verticality, and also attaching it to the base bars.
It must be installed in a corner with a comb, the groove will always go on the open side, the finishing nails are driven into it. In addition, it is possible to install a clamp on the groove side, if this is planned. Accordingly, the next lining with its ridge will overlap the attachment point of the previous one (photo).
Each lining at the top and bottom is attached closer to the edge, this will then allow you to hide part of it with baseboards or ceiling cornices.
If one of the boards does not lie entirely in the corner part of the room, the excess part should be cut down along its entire length using a jigsaw. When installing the material, you should take into account the possible shrinkage of the house and changes in the size of the boards in the event of changes in humidity levels. It is advisable to leave a small gap between the upper and lower levels of the room, which will later be closed with baseboards.

Using lining for doorways and windows

The most difficult moment in the work of paneling a room is the design of door and window openings. In the event that during the process of laying the lining door slope or the window opening the lining will protrude beyond it, you should cut off the excess with a jigsaw, having previously measured it with a pencil. In progress finishing slopes can be decorated with corners made of plastic and wood.

A few more words about the lining

Don’t forget about how to properly lay the lining on the ceiling plane. In principle, the procedure is similar to installation on walls, however, to strengthen the structure, the distance between the sheathing elements should be reduced. It should be approximately 70-80 cm. In addition, it is necessary to calculate the position of the wide block at the junction of the planks.

Laying down, The planks must be joined together along their length. Or another way out is to buy long-length lining, which, however, is difficult when installing a small room.

If you are going to ask yourself the question of how to lay lining in a bathroom or bathhouse, it is worth noting that these rooms differ in their specificity. As a result, the installation technology will be different.

Some features of laying lining in baths and saunas:

When creating the lathing in the sauna, the surfaces of the walls and ceilings should be covered with foil, which will be secured with staples.
For such premises, only linden or aspen lining is suitable.
Finishing elements that play decorative role should also be made from a similar type of wood from which the lining is made.

The instructions above will allow you to make beautiful and high-quality finishing with your own hands of any premises, be it Vacation home, bathhouse or sauna. At the same time, the price of the products will not be high, and the work will be easy to perform. To better familiarize yourself with the process, we advise you to watch the video.

Installation technology

You will also need a simple set of tools:

Tape measure and pencil;
Building level;
Jigsaw (can be replaced with a hacksaw);
Electric drill;
Hammer.

Stage 2: frame installation

When installing lining, it is necessary to solve two problems simultaneously:

Decorate the surface(walls or ceiling);
Level the surface to get a perfectly flat vertical or horizontal plane.

Therefore, in order to properly carry out repairs with clapboards in a room, it is necessary to correctly install it, which is responsible for leveling the surface of walls or ceilings.

This operation is carried out as follows:

Illustrations	Description of actions
	Surface preparation:· If there is peeling paint or plaster on the surface, it must be removed. To do this, use a hammer and chisel, as shown in the photo; · Before installing the frame, it is advisable to treat the surface with an antifungal agent to prevent the formation of mold.
	Marking. If you are a beginner, be sure to mark the location of the slats before installing the frame. This is done as follows: · Decide how you will install the boards - vertically or horizontally (along or across the ceiling). The location of the slats depends on this - they should be located perpendicular to the boards; · Then draw the lines for the location of the slats starting from the corner. The distance between them should be 50–60 cm. When drawing lines, use a level to avoid unnecessary deviations from the vertical or horizontal.
	Installation of extreme slats:· Cut the slats according to the length of the lines; · Drill holes in the first rail in increments of 250 mm along the diameter of the dowels or screws. Try to place the holes in the center, i.e. along the axis of the rack; · Attach the strip to the wall, align it along the outermost line, and mark the wall through the holes; · Drill holes in the wall according to the marks to the depth of the dowel; · Secure the first rail with dowels or self-tapping screws, but not completely, so that there is a small gap between the wall and the rail for subsequent adjustment of its position; · Install the last rail in the same way. Before installing the slats, be sure to treat them with an antiseptic.
	Leveling the plane and installing intermediate slats:· Attach to the outer slats long rule and or stretch several threads between them; · Make sure that the slats are located in the same plane. If necessary, adjust the position of one of the slats by placing a block, piece of plywood or other material under it. Then finally secure them (finish the dowel and nails); · Install the intermediate slats according to the markings in the same way as the outer ones. Then align their position with the stretched beacon threads. Between the slats you can place thermal insulation material to insulate walls or ceilings. The result should be a flat plane.

Using this principle, the frame is made on all surfaces that you plan to cover with clapboard.

If the surface of walls or ceilings has big differences, fasten the slats to the brackets that are used for the plasterboard frame.

Stage 3: attaching the lining to the frame

As an example, let's look at how to install lining on walls in a hidden way, i.e. so that the places where it is attached are not visible. The work is carried out in the following sequence:

Illustrations	Description of actions
	Preparing the boards. Cut the boards to fit the height or width of the walls.
	Sheathing installation:· Start the sheathing from the corner, and place the first board so that the tongue faces the corner. To fix the first board, screw screws or hammer nails into the tongue; · WITH reverse side secure the board with clamps. Position them so that the petals fit into the groove. In this case, the clamp itself is attached to the frame with screws or nails. Over time, if replacement or repair of the lining is required, it will not be difficult for you to dismantle the clamps to disassemble the lining; · The second board must be connected to the first in a tongue/groove lock. If the tongue does not fully fit into the groove, you can knock the board with a hammer, placing a wooden block so as not to damage the surface. Then secure the second panel with clamps in the same way. All subsequent boards are installed according to this principle; · The last board, if it does not fit into the remaining gap, must be cut to the width from the groove side. Then it needs to be locked into a lock with the previous board, and from the side of the cut edge secured to the frame with nails or self-tapping screws. You can screw the fasteners into the surface, since subsequently their installation sites will be hidden. All prepared walls are sheathed in this way.
	Installation of decorative corners. To hide the lining joints in the corners, use wooden decorative corners. They are installed as follows: Carefully cut the corners along the length of the outer internal corners; · To attach the corners, take small (window) nails and bite off the caps with pliers or wire cutters; · Nail the corners to the lining.

This completes the covering, now all that remains is to cover the surface paint and varnish material. It must be said that ceiling cladding is done in exactly the same way, with the only difference being that the work is carried out in a horizontal plane.

Conclusion

As you can see, installing the lining with your own hands is really easy. The main thing is to try to work carefully and follow the instructions stated above. And to consolidate the information received, watch the video below.

Despite the emergence of an increasing number of different finishing materials, “lining” still “does not go out of fashion.” This material is from natural wood loved for its environmental friendliness, attractive appearance, the ability to hide unevenness and defects in walls and ceilings and, importantly, for the comparative ease of installation. Not only professional builders, but also “home craftsmen”. Of course, for this it is necessary to comply with several simple rules, which we will talk about in this article. So, we lay the wooden lining ourselves.

Calculation of the required amount of material

Before going to the store, you need to decide on the required amount of material. If for calculation required quantity wallpaper, it is enough to simply divide the area of the walls by the area of the roll and in some cases add 10% to the “report”, but when calculating the required amount of lining the situation is somewhat more complicated.

The lining is available in lengths of 6, 4, 3, 2.7, 2.1 and 2 meters. It is ideal when the length of your wall is equal to or slightly less than one of the lining lengths offered on the market. But what if it is significantly smaller than one of the sizes, but slightly larger than the other? Let's look at this case using an example.

Let's say you need to cover a wall 3 meters 12 centimeters long. For this purpose, you can purchase a 4-meter-long lining, but in this case, almost a quarter of the material will be unclaimed (in other words, you will buy 25% more lining than you need). Another option is to buy boards 3 meters long and add a small section to each of them. But, you must admit, such “short ones” will not look very beautiful. That's why the best option in this case, it will be to buy a lining 2 meters 10 centimeters long. Thus, we can cover three rows of lining with two boards (one whole and one cut in half) and the amount of waste in this case will be minimal. Based on this, it will be enough to divide the height of the room by the height of one lining board and multiply the resulting result by 1.5. This is exactly how many boards 2.1 meters long will be needed to cover this wall.

An example of laying lining “three boards on two rows”

Choosing lining in the store

Unlike wallpaper or, say, plastic panels, materials in which the presence of defects is unlikely, the lining must be carefully selected. Moreover, the manufacturer’s brand in this case does not play any role - even from the same company, two different batches of lining can differ significantly from each other.

The quality of the lining is divided into four main grades: A, B, C and Extra. The Extra variety is of the highest quality, so if finances allow, it is better to purchase it and almost guarantee to save yourself from unpleasant surprises in the form of defects.

It’s better to buy lining not in packaging - you can inspect each board and weed out defects before purchasing

Grade A is also quite High Quality, but with grades B and C it is better, as they say, to “keep your eyes open.” It is better to purchase lining not in packaging - this way you can inspect each board and weed out defects before purchasing. But such lining is sold extremely rarely; more often the boards are packed in 10 pieces per transparent film. In this case, unfortunately, it will not be possible to inspect every board.

More often, boards are packed in 10 pieces in transparent film.

Although, to tell the truth, completely unusable boards are extremely rare. Even if there are one or two knots, the board can be used to make short sections for covering the slopes of a window or, say, a door jamb.

But it makes sense to inspect the ends of the lining, visible through the film, quite carefully. If you notice chips or knots on them, it is better to put such packages aside.

Before laying, the lining must be prepared in a certain way. First, you need to inspect the boards for the presence of knots and cracks, and if they are found, either put these boards aside, or (if there is “butt” material) eliminate the defects by stripping or puttying problem areas. And, secondly, the lining must be allowed to “acclimatize” in the room. In other words, it must reach room temperature, because otherwise (especially if the material was stored outside) after laying the boards it may “lead”. To do this, it is enough to lay out the boards in several layers, making spacers of timber between them.

Before laying, the lining must be prepared in a certain way

Some believe that on preparatory stage the lining needs to be processed antiseptics, but, as practice shows, it will be enough to apply an antiseptic already on finished walls, so this preparation stage can be completely skipped.

Preparing the walls

Preparing walls for laying lining can be considered the most critical stage, on which the final result largely depends. In most cases, except when the lining is stuffed directly onto wooden walls, to install it on the walls it is necessary to mount a sheathing of timber.

To install the lining on the walls, it is necessary to install a sheathing made of timber

A beam with a cross section of 40 by 20 millimeters is best suited for this purpose.

You don’t have to pre-level the walls before laying the lining, but it is necessary to align the sheathing at the same level.

To do this, the first step is to determine the most protruding area on each wall. This is quite easy to do. A cord is stretched under the ceiling at a distance of 5-7 centimeters from the wall, onto which a thread with a load is hung using a wire hook, which represents a plumb line. Next, the plumb line moves along the wall. By controlling the distance between the plumb line and different points on the wall, it will be possible to determine the most protruding section. All further measurements will have to “dance” from this place.

A small piece of timber is attached to the most protruding section of the wall, from which the sheathing will be mounted. A thread is pulled from this “beacon”, parallel to the planned direction of laying the lining. After that in extreme points walls (near the floor and ceiling with vertical installation or at opposite walls when horizontal) two load-bearing beams are installed. Please note that front part The beam must clearly coincide with the level of the lighthouse, so if necessary, small spacers of the required thickness are installed between the beam and the wall.

If necessary, small spacers of the required thickness are installed between the beam and the wall

Spacers can only be installed in those places where the timber will be attached to the wall with dowel nails.

When the outer bars are fixed (don't forget to check them with a level), you can stretch another thread between them, which will make it easier to install the rest load-bearing elements battens.

Subsequent beams are attached to the wall at a distance of about one meter from each other. In this case, as in the case of the outer bars, if necessary, additional spacers are placed under them. If one row of lining will be formed from two boards, be sure to install a beam at the joint.

Fastening the lining to the wall

If the sheathing is installed correctly, installation of the lining itself will not be difficult. The only question that needs to be resolved before installing it is where to start laying the lining and whether to use a level when installing the first board.

To answer this question, it is necessary to determine to what level the ceiling (if laid horizontally) or the walls (if laid vertically) in the room correspond to the level. If they are level, then there are no problems - you can start installation both from above and from below (or from any corner), and the first board is attached strictly level. But if the ceiling is a little “piled up” to one side or one of the corners is noticeably “mowed” (this situation is quite common in old houses), then under no circumstances should you lay the lining level. In this case, straight boards will only emphasize the curvature of the room, and in uneven corner you will have to cut the last of the boards "at an angle".

In order to hide the unevenness of the room as much as possible, the lining is laid as follows. The first board is attached close to the crooked corner or uneven ceiling, and all subsequent boards are installed with a slight distortion on one side, until the next board is “level.” Thus, a slight tilt of the boards will be almost invisible.

To accurately determine with what skew to install the boards, you need to measure the distance from the floor to the ceiling in opposite corners of the room (or the length of the floor and ceiling between opposite corners when laying vertically) and divide the difference between the obtained values by the number of boards that will be laid on the shorter side . The resulting value will be the distance by which you need to “fill” each of the lining boards along the longer side of the installation. If this value is less than 2-3 millimeters, you can repeat the calculation using half the number of boards as a divisor. In this case, you will “reach the level” already in the middle of the wall.

The first board of the lining is attached with a “ridge” to the corner. You can fix it with the help of small nails, which are driven in “sunk” (when finishing off it is better to use a blunt closer) or with the help of special clamps - gluers.

You can fix the lining with the help of small nails that are driven in “sunk”

Lining is wooden cladding boards that can be used to transform any interior. It is often used both for cladding walls and for external cladding Houses. The work of finishing walls with clapboard is simple and accessible even to a non-professional, but for this you need to know the basic subtleties of installation. When using lining as a finishing material, you get a beautiful and smooth surface without significant financial costs. In addition, she has good soundproofing properties. In this article we will talk about how to properly line the walls of a room with clapboard.

Do-it-yourself lining installation

When working with lining, you will not need to pre-level the walls using putty and plaster.

Frame making

First of all, you need to make a frame. Suitable for him wooden blocks having rectangular section 15x30 mm or 20x40 mm. The choice of their thickness will depend on the degree of unevenness of the walls.

If the surface is absolutely flat, then slats with a thickness of 10 mm to 15 mm are used. They can be attached to the wall using glue or nails. They should be located in increments of 50 cm - this will ensure air circulation between the base and the cladding. Wooden lining has high hygroscopic properties, so waterproofing must be applied along the bottom of the wall to which it is attached.

For walls with an uneven surface, the bars are taken with a larger cross-section. They are fastened with bolts, dowels or screws. During installation of the frame, on uneven walls, you need to use a plumb line and level, which will help you track its vertical and horizontal. If necessary, thin wooden wedges are used to ensure that all the bars are in the same plane.

If work is planned to insulate the room, then the frame should be made of bars no thinner than 50 mm. In this case, thermal insulation material will be placed in the space between them.

When attaching the frame around windows and doors, they must be surrounded with bars. This is done so that the ends of the planks are mounted on them, and not lie on the door and window frames.

Various lining installation technologies

After the base is installed, you can begin covering the walls with clapboard. There are several methods for installing lining to a frame:

using a stapler or nails. In this case, work is carried out in any direction. When using nails, you will need a hammer to completely bury the heads in the wood;

using special staples - clamps. This method is only suitable for installing thin lining, which is used for interior work. Clamps are attached to the wall using nails or self-tapping screws. Each subsequent plank joins with the already fixed one, thereby closing the fastener. In order to close the heads of the screws at the last strip, a dowel is used.

when using planks with a wide internal latch, which can be attached to nails, screws, clips or paper clips. This method Placing the lining is done both from floor to ceiling and from ceiling to floor. To do this, before installing the wooden planks, holes equal to the size of the screw head are drilled on the tenon side. It is in them that the self-tapping screws will be screwed in during installation to the frame. After completion of work, all protruding parts should be cut off and sanded.

Thanks to the wide variety of clapboard covering technologies, you can choose suitable way finishes for any surface.

Tips to help you decorate your house with clapboards yourself

Regardless of the height of the walls of the room and the length of the plank, the most practical is the joining method. This technology clapboard sheathing creates a rigid connection even in the absence of a backing block.
Before installing the paneling near sockets and switches, they should be de-energized and dismantled.
It is advisable to cut the edge of the first plank and install it in the corner, checking the vertical with a plumb line.
It is important to ensure free air circulation between the lining and the wall. To do this, during the work, thin wooden slats along the entire perimeter of the floor and ceiling.
When hitting with a hammer, you must use wooden plank, which will soften the blow and avoid damage to the lining.
When positioned vertically, clapboard should be sheathed from left to right.
You can cover the upper and lower sections of the planks using a carved plinth, which will not interfere with the free circulation of air.
After the wall finishing is completed, all planks must be coated with several layers of varnish.

How much does it cost to clap a room?

When finishing walls with clapboard, the price of work is 300-400 rubles per square meter, which is equivalent to the price for the material. Therefore, you should stock up on knowledge of how to attach the lining to the wall and carry out all the installation work yourself. This will halve the cost of finishing the room.

But if you decide to hire professional workers, you need to take into account a number of nuances:

when not large volume work, the price per square meter will be higher than average;
the wood needs additional processing: plastering and varnishing. You will have to pay extra for this;
For large volumes of work, there may be an individual discount.

The total cost of covering a house with clapboard will depend on the quality of the material from which it is made. The grade depends only on the presence of natural wood defects and imperfections that appeared during the production process. Differences in technological process production different varieties there is no lining.

When choosing it, you should also take into account the characteristics of the wood from which it is made. So, material from coniferous species trees can be used for external and internal work. And deciduous trees, except aspen, can be used exclusively for interior decoration premises.

Interiors with clapboard wall decoration

Most often, lining is used for interiors country houses. It is perfect for rooms in Provence or country style. With the help of lining, a special home comfort, and the environmental friendliness of the material inspires the choice of appropriate furniture and interior items.

Increasingly plastic Construction Materials are being replaced by wooden ones: they are more affordable, environmentally friendly and look more interesting in the interior. Correct installation lining on the ceiling or walls can easily be done with your own hands, if you have step-by-step instruction and work plan.

Features of installation work

You can install the lining either on the walls or on the frame; these methods are selected based on the material of the walls. Installation wooden lining Directly on the walls, it is most advisable to carry out it in a wooden bath; there is no need to additionally weight the structures with metal profiles or load-bearing wooden beams. But, if installation is planned in residential premises or utility rooms general purpose(balcony, closet, etc.), it is better to use frame technology.

Photo - work order

Rules for installing lining:

Installation Guide

It is easiest to install plastic or wooden seamless lining yourself: its installation involves sliding the panels on top of each other and fastening them in certain places with nails. Sometimes staplers, clamps and self-tapping screws are used instead of nails.

Let's look at how to install lathing for lining on the ceiling with your own hands:

The technology for installing lining on the ceiling and walls is similar, with the exception of the working surface. To start installation work need to determine the most low point ceiling. To do this, an equal distance is cut from each corner using a ruler, and then the lowest angle is determined. The ceiling is drawn from it using a level;
The frame structure can be made of either metal or wooden beams. Metallic profile preferably used on large areas, because it has higher rigidity;
Photo - installation diagram
A frame mesh is laid off from the main line. The pitch of the beams is determined based on the selected material. After this, brackets or U-shaped suspensions are installed. They are installed at a rate of 5 per meter. It should be noted important feature working with lining is that the material must be perpendicular to the frame. If the boards are installed horizontally, then load-bearing beams mounted vertically and vice versa. This scheme applies to any surfaces that are finished wooden planks;
Photo - installation example
Beams or profile guides are mounted on them. The perimeter is installed first; it is made either from load-bearing UD or wooden beams with a cross-section of 25 mm. It is advisable to try to lay the base as close as possible to the wall, otherwise, after finishing the finishing, a gap may appear between the wall and the ceiling, which will need to be additionally covered;
When the frame is ready, wiring (if necessary), vapor barrier and insulation are carried out. A film is installed under the frame to protect the walls and supporting system from condensation. Next, foam sheets are mounted, mineral wool or other insulation;
Photo - finished frame
A waterproofing film is installed directly on the thermal insulation. It is stretched to protect the frame and heat insulator from moisture. In particular, you need to take care of the insulation of the corners - this is where gaps appear through which water enters the frame and contributes to the appearance of dampness;
Photo - thermal insulation
Afterwards, the lining is installed on the surface of the sheathing. Installation work is carried out close to the wall, the first panel is moved as close as possible to the corner. The entire coating will be leveled against it, so its installation is given Special attention. In order to move the board as tightly as possible to the wall, use a small piece of wood and a hammer. The wood is joined to the board and needs to be hit several times with a hammer to create a hard angle;
Photo - padding
For installation of subsequent panels, special brackets are used. The kleimer is pushed onto the first board with a tongue, while its second half is placed on the frame. Next, the bracket is attached to the surface load-bearing beam screws or nails. For one panel standard length(2.5 meters), 2 clamps are used, for a House block (imitation timber), whose length often does not exceed 0.5 m - one clamp;
Photo - kleimer
When construction works finished, the lining is covered with drying oil, protective equipment and varnish or paint.

Painting can also be carried out before installation work begins, but then the finish may suffer when installed on the frame. After this, all that remains is to install plinths at the joints of the ceiling and wall.

Photo - finished room

The rules for installing the frame and vinyl or wood lining on the ceiling and walls are very similar. Only the definition of the perimeter differs. To install eurolining, you need to draw lines of the same length from the ceiling and mark the surface from them.

Tips for choosing lining and installation:

In a sauna, bathhouse, attic or other rooms with high temperature you need to use lining made of linden, larch or aspen. These rocks do not heat up and do not release resin under thermal influence;
The wooden frame must be treated with an antiseptic and fire-fighting compounds;
Seamless sheets often exceed the dimensions of conventional panels, so they require reinforced fasteners. Most often, builders use special screws or nails. When working in a building made of concrete slabs You can even use dowels;
If you choose the method of installation on walls without a frame, then before starting work, the old coating is completely dismantled, the walls and ceiling are leveled, and they are primed.

Video: installation of wooden lining

Price overview

The price for installing lining may vary depending on the city of your residence, the scope of work, and sometimes prices vary from certain contractor companies. Let's consider how much it costs to finish one square meter premises in various cities of the CIS countries: