Insulate walls in a wooden house. How to insulate a log house from the inside

Wooden houses are traditional for Russian cities and villages - they reliably serve their owners according to a lot decades and even often cross the century mark. But sooner or later the time comes when insulation wooden house outside becomes a necessary measure, since, being under the influence of wind, moisture and ultraviolet rays, the parts of the walls dry out and become covered with cracks, through which cold easily enters the rooms. To reduce heating costs, you need to invest in wall insulation, and this will pay off in the first winter.

By carrying out the exterior work, the homeowner will solve three problems at once - make the house warm, reduce the penetration of street noise into the rooms and update the external design of the building.

But, before you buy material and start working, you need to find out which one modern insulation materials would be better suited For wooden building, and in what sequence it is necessary to install it.

Currently the most popular materials for insulation are wooden buildings the outside is polystyrene foam in panels and different types of mineral wool, made in the form of mats or rolls. But besides them, in last years Sprayed insulating compounds, such as penoizol or ecowool, are increasingly being used, as well as thermal panels, which include not only an insulating layer, but also a decorative finish.

Expanded polystyrene

Expanded polystyrene is the most affordable material for insulation. It has good performance characteristics and provides significant savings on heating costs.

Expanded polystyrene is produced in panels of various thicknesses, sizes 1 × 1 and 1 × 0.5 m, with a density from 15 to 40 kg/m³. For external insulation work, medium-sized material is usually used. density - order 25kg/m³ and thickness from 50 mm. It must be remembered that the higher the density of the insulation, the lower its thermal insulation qualities, but the higher the resistance to stress. Therefore, high-density polystyrene foam is used mainly for floor insulation.

Expanded polystyrene is lightweight, as it consists of a foamed mass filled with air, so it becomes a good barrier to both cold and sound waves. Expanded polystyrene has low thermal conductivity and therefore guarantees long-term preservation of the heat accumulated in the room.

It is easy to cut and attach to the wall. It is resistant to temperature changes and ultraviolet radiation, and also almost does not absorb moisture, so it has a fairly long service life.

But, in addition to numerous advantages, polystyrene foam also has its significant disadvantages:

• low mechanical strength– the material breaks and crumbles quite easily, so after fixing it to the wall it will require protection with mesh reinforcement and decorative coating;
• ordinary polystyrene foam cannot be called non-flammable, and when exposed to high temperatures it turns into a fluid burning mass and emits hazardous substances. human body substances. Only extruded polystyrene foam is considered non-flammable, or rather self-extinguishing, and it is recommended to use it for insulating wooden buildings.
• if you plan to attach the boards with glue, you need to find out in advance whether it is suitable for use with expanded polystyrene, since some substances destroy this material.

Rating of expanded polystyrene for facade

	Photo	Name	Rating	Price
#1			⭐ 100 / 100
#2			⭐ 99 / 100 1 - vote
#3			⭐ 98 / 100
#4			⭐ 96 / 100
#5			⭐ 95 / 100

Foamed polystyrene foam (EPS) KNAUF Therm DACHA

Foamed polystyrene foam (EPS) KNAUF Therm DACHA

Characteristic:

• quantity per package 10 pcs;
• dimensions 100×120 cm;
• thickness 100 mm;
• area of ​​one sheet 1.2 m²;
• packaged area 12 m²;
• applies
• thermal conductivity coefficient 0.048 W/(m⋅K).

Foamed polystyrene foam (EPS) KNAUF Therm DACHA

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) URSA XPS N-III-G4

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) URSA XPS N-III-G4

Characteristic:

• quantity per package 7 pcs;
• dimensions 118x60 cm;
• thickness 50 mm;
• area of ​​one sheet 0.7 m²;
• packaged area 4.9 m²;
• for internal and external works;
• tongue and groove slab;
• minimum operating temperature -50 °C;
• maximum operating temperature 75 °C.

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) URSA XPS N-III-G4

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) RAVATHERM XPS STANDARD

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) RAVATHERM XPS STANDARD

Xcharacteristics:

• material - extruded polystyrene foam (XPS);
• quantity per package 8 pcs;
• dimensions 118.5×58.5 cm;
• thickness 50 mm;
• area of ​​one sheet 0.7 m²;
• packaged area 5.6 m²;
• for internal and external works;
• scope of application: for floors, for walls, for ceilings, for roofs;
• tongue and groove slab;

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) RAVATHERM XPS STANDARD

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) PENOPLEX 45

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) PENOPLEX 45

Characteristic:

• material - extruded polystyrene foam (XPS);
• quantity per package 8 pcs;
• dimensions 240×60 cm;
• thickness 50 mm;
• area of ​​one sheet 1.4 m²;
• packaged area 11.2 m²;
• for external work;
• scope of application: for floors, for roofs;
• tongue and groove slab;
• maximum operating temperature 75 °C;
• thermal conductivity coefficient 0.033 W/(m⋅K).

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) PENOPLEX 45

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) Technoplex

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) Technoplex

Characteristic:

• material - extruded polystyrene foam (XPS);
• quantity per package 20 pcs;
• dimensions 120×60 cm;
• thickness 20 mm;
• area of ​​one sheet 0.7 m²;
• packaged area 14 m²;
• for internal and external works;
• minimum operating temperature -70 °C;
• maximum operating temperature 75 °C;
• thermal conductivity coefficient 0.032 W/(m⋅K).

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) Technoplex

Installation of polystyrene foam insulation

The panels are attached to the surface in two ways - on the lathing or directly on the plane of the walls using glue and “umbrella” (“fungi”) fasteners. The choice of technique depends on the surface on which it will be mounted.

If the house is built from timber and its walls have smooth surfaces, you can use both options, but it’s easier to get by with glue.

1. Before installing insulation, the surface must be inspected for cracks and cracks. If any are found, then they need to be repaired. The process can be carried out different ways- this is plugging the cracks with tow, treated with lime, or sealing with modern materials, such as sealant or construction foam.
2. After that wooden surface It must be treated - it will protect it from harmful insects and the formation of moss or mold stains.
3. When the antiseptic has dried, you can begin installing the insulation. To ensure that it sticks well to the wall, you can lightly walk over its surface with an iron brush.
4. Installation of insulation begins from the bottom corner of the wall. For ease of fastening and evenness of the first row of panels, it is recommended to install a special profile in this place. It should have a width corresponding to the thickness of the material.

• The slabs are coated with a solution of special construction adhesive, pointwise and along the edges, and then applied and pressed against the wall. They should be pressed tightly against each other, creating a single surface. If gaps have formed between the panels, then after the glue has dried and secured to the wall, they must be sealed with polyurethane foam.

• After the first row has been removed, subsequent rows are attached according to the system brickwork, in a dressing.

• After waiting 3-4 days after installing the slabs to the wall, they must be secured using “fungi” fasteners. Each slab must be secured 5-6 similar elements. The fastenings should have a leg length several centimeters greater than the thickness of the insulation, for example, if the insulation is 50 mm thick, then the “fungus” should be selected with a 100 mm leg. When driving, the cap should enter the polystyrene foam plate flush with its surface.

Fixing the fastening - “fungus”

• When all the insulation has been installed, you can begin to reinforce the polystyrene foam - this is done using fiberglass mesh.

• At all corners of the building you need to install special corners with a mesh attached to them; they are secured with glue.

Corner reinforcing mesh - serpyanka

• A wide mesh is fixed to the remaining surface, which is sold in rolls. It is laid with an overlap of 70-100 mm, also on the adhesive mass. The serpyanka should seem to drown in glue. Having fixed it on the surface of polystyrene foam, they go over it with a spatula from the center to the edges - according to the herringbone system, removing excess glue.
• When the glue on the reinforcing layer dries, the wall needs to be covered with a primer mixture - decorative plaster will fit well on it.

In this case, you can only make decorative plaster finishing - siding or there will simply be nothing to secure the lining to. But light finishing material, for example, plastic tiles imitating brick or stone, can be attached to plastered walls.

find out detailed information with instructions on how to do it from our new article.

Since installation work according to the second option (on the lathing) is carried out in the same way as when insulating with mineral wool, they will be discussed below.

Why is it worth insulating your house?

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is not new insulation material, it is time-tested, as it has been used for decades, and during this period it has not lost any of its popularity.

One of the best insulation materials is mineral wool.

Mineral wool consists of numerous fibers bonded together with special compounds. Three different types of mineral wool are produced, and they differ in the base material of manufacture - this stone wool, glass wool and slag wool.

Of course, they have other differences - moisture resistance, thermal conductivity, resistance to certain external influence, as well as the thickness and length of the fibers.

Slag

This material is made from blast furnace slag, which, after processing, is drawn into fibers with a length of 10 to 20 mm and a thickness of up to 10 microns.

When choosing insulation for a facade, you should immediately abandon this option, since it is hydroscopic. If moisture gets on it, it can cause mold to grow inside the material. In addition, if it is located next to metal profile, then it can happen oxidation reaction, since slags contain residual acidity.

Slag wool has a fairly high thermal conductivity for insulation, and according to this characteristic it is also not entirely suitable for insulating the walls of private housing.

Glass wool

Glass wool is made by melting glass melt, the length of the fibers of the material is from 15 to 45 mm, and the thickness is no more than 12-15 microns. This insulation is well suited for protecting walls from the cold outside - glass wool is heat-resistant and non-hygroscopic. In addition, it is light in weight and has good elasticity. Glass wool is produced in mats or rolls, and due to its elasticity, the packaging does not have excessively large volumes, since the material is easily compressed.

Glass wool made in mats is denser and stronger. It not only insulates the walls well, but also provides excellent protection from the wind, and, in addition, it is much easier to install between the sheathing bars.

The disadvantage is that when installing it, you need to carefully protect your eyes, face and hands, and respiratory organs, since thin glass fibers, if they come into contact with fabrics, can injure them or cause severe irritation. Therefore, when working with this material, it is necessary to wear a respirator, goggles, gloves and a protective suit.

Stone wool

Basalt rocks serve as raw materials for the production of stone wool. It, like other types of insulation, consists of fibers, has low thermal conductivity and high hydrophobicity, as well as the ability to withstand high temperatures, therefore it can be called a heat-resistant material. This type of wool is not so elastic, so its shape and volume are quite stable. Thanks to all my positive characteristics, it is excellent for insulating facades.

Basalt (stone) wool is a material with virtually no disadvantages

Basalt wool is available in the form of rolls or slabs; it can be denser or softer, but for walls it is necessary to choose the most dense material.

All of the above types mineral wool have a hardness classification. This indicator needs to be clarified, since not all brands are suitable for insulating facades. For similar works you need to choose material grade PZh-175 - this is a rigid plate, or PPZh -200, which means increased rigidity of the plate.

Thermal insulation of walls with mineral wool

• Installation of the insulating layer of mineral wool is carried out with lathing installed on the wall - this method can also be used for insulation with polystyrene foam. It is suitable for both flat and log surfaces.
• In this case, a lathing made of timber or galvanized metal profiles is installed on the walls, between which a slab or roll insulation.

• In order to achieve a better insulation effect and keep the walls safe from moisture, it is recommended to pre-fix a vapor barrier material under the sheathing.
• It must be remembered that the sheathing bars are installed at a distance from each other, which should be 5 cm less than the width of the insulation. This is required so that it fits tightly between two adjacent guides. If the material will be installed in two layers, then it is necessary to provide for the thickness of the installed bars - it must correspond to two layers of insulation.

• There are several ways to secure the sheathing, and which one to choose is up to the owner of the house, depending on the quality of the insulation and the evenness of the wall.
• After installing the sheathing beams, insulation mats are laid between them, starting from the bottom row. To prevent them from slipping, you can connect all the bars from below with a supporting rail.

• If roll material is used, installation begins from the top, securing the upper edge to the “fungi”. The remaining fastening elements will be installed later.
• Then, the laid insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film. It is often used to completely cover the entire wall, securing it to the bars with staples. Sometimes it is laid only on insulation, but the first option is preferable.

• Next, all the insulation material, together with the vapor barrier, is secured with “fungi” to the wall.
• Fixed on top of the sheathing decorative finishing- this can be siding or lining. The rules for installing such finishing are discussed separately in other publications.

Mounted on top of the sheathing decorative coating- siding, block house or other materials

• If the sheathing is installed vertically, then the sheathing will be horizontal and vice versa. This point must be taken into account when installing bars or profiles. It also happens differently - with two layers of insulation. First, the first sheathing is made horizontally, then, after laying the first layer of insulation, a second sheathing is mounted along the beams, perpendicular to the first. After laying the second layer of mineral wool, everything is the same as described above.

Video - Example of wall insulation with mineral wool

Prices for mineral wool

Mineral wool

Sprayed insulation

In addition to materials in the form of mats and rolls, in Lately began to be used liquid insulation, which are sprayed onto the walls. These include such as ecowool and polyurethane. When choosing such insulation materials, you should pay attention to their characteristics - they can become an excellent alternative mineral wool or rigid polystyrene foam.

Polyurethane foam

Wooden house covered with polyurethane foam, on long years can be considered protected from the negative processes of mold, exposure to dampness, wind, low and high temperatures.

A modern method of thermal insulation is spraying polyurethane foam

However, this spraying method is not often used, since it requires special equipment and good skills, and inviting a professional with special equipment is quite expensive. However, it must be taken into account that the service life of this material reaches up to fifty years, while other insulation materials become unusable after more than short term. Therefore, having spent once on insulation, you can forget about repairing the facade for many years.

After covering the walls with polyurethane foam, they acquire properties such as hydrophobicity, low thermal conductivity, and resistance to almost any external influences.

The advantages of this technology also include the following qualities:

• excellent adhesion when applied;
• lack of fastening elements;
• the material penetrates into all small holes and cracks in the wall, preventing cold air from penetrating inside the building;
• compatibility with any materials;
• formation on the surface seamless coating, which is very important for the heat-saving effect;
• the coating does not require repair or renewal for many years;
• mold does not appear on it and it is not damaged by rodents.

Application of polyurethane foam

Any surface for installation of sprayed materials must be prepared. In particular, bars of the same size as the thickness of the spray layer planned to be installed are nailed onto its surface - these will become a kind of beacons. Using these guidelines, protruding frozen sections of foam material will be cut off.

When applying insulation, the device operates under high pressure - more than 100 atmospheres. Master using air gun sprays material on the wall surface. Once on the surface, the polyurethane foams in 2-3 seconds. The setting and beginning of hardening of polyurethane foam occurs almost immediately.

To achieve the necessary heat and sound insulation effects, the coating must be sprayed in three layers.

Sprayed polyurethane is divided into materials for internal and external use. For external application, use “Ecotermix 300”, “HEATLOK SOY”

For example, the video shows the application of polyurethane to wooden walls from the inside of a house. The spraying process on the outside is practically no different.

Video - Spraying polyurethane foam thermal insulation

Ecowool

Ecowool is an insulating and soundproofing material, also applied by spraying. The raw material for its production is recycled cellulose with the addition of borax and boric acid, which are non-toxic and non-volatile. The insulation looks like gray powder.

Another method of thermal insulation of walls is spraying ecowool

The environmental cleanliness of the material is confirmed by the fact that it does not contain synthetic compounds, petroleum products, or other substances that can emit fumes hazardous to human health.

When the material is applied to the surface, it fills all holes and voids, forming a monolithic insulating layer without joints.

Additives from borax and boric acid are excellent antiseptics for insulation, preventing any forms of biological life from growing in its thickness.

Important positive quality ecowool for wooden buildings is its heat resistance - material smolders, but does not ignite with an open flame.

Application of an insulating layer of ecowool

The wooden surface for spraying must be prepared - a lath of the required size is attached to it - it will regulate the thickness of the spraying. In addition, it will play the role of supporting elements so that the not completely hardened material does not slide out under its own weight.

To spray ecowool on walls, you need a special installation, the hopper of which is filled with dry material. There it is loosened and moistened, and applied to the surface through a special gun under pressure. The process itself is quite simple, but it cannot be carried out without a special apparatus.

Video - Technological process of spraying ecowool on wooden walls

In addition to the materials and technologies described above, to date There are many other insulation materials. Therefore, if the goal is to make the house warm and save family money on energy bills every day, then you can always find a material that meets all the criteria.

How to determine the required insulation thickness?

The thickness of the thermal insulation layer depends on the thickness wooden walls And climatic features region of residence.

Know required thickness insulation is important. Excessive “fur coat” can only damage a wooden house, and insufficient one will not allow creating comfortable living conditions. In addition, this parameter directly affects the design of the frame - it is important to know how far away from the wall its guides should be placed under the external one. Carrying out independent calculations is not so difficult, especially if you use the proposed calculation method.

The point is What total heat transfer resistance multilayer wall designs R should not be less than calculated for a specific climatic region of the country. For convenience, these values ​​are plotted on a map of the Russian Federation. In this case, we are interested in the upper value (purple numbers) - for the walls.

The wall is not only the log house itself, but also interior decoration(if it exists or is planned, a layer of thermal insulation and external finishing facade (important - external finishing made according to the principle of a ventilated facade is not taken into account). For each layer, its thermal resistance index is calculated.

For example, the following diagram can be given:

1 – wooden wall (timber or log). There is a nuance - thickness log wall(right) may be slightly smaller than from timber. It is worth paying attention to this when taking measurements and further calculations.

2 – walls, if any. Often, in log houses, the walls in the premises are left unlined - so as not to lose the naturalness of the coating. But they can easily be covered with plasterboard (for painting or finishing with wallpaper), plywood, natural lining or wood composite panels, OSB sheets, etc.

3 - Thermal insulation layer - it is its thickness that must be determined.

The structure may have several layers. So, if the outside is provided with cladding without a ventilated gap, close to the insulation material (for example, using natural boards or lining). then it will also need to be taken into account.

The figure also shows:

4 — vapor permeable diffuse membrane.

5 – frame details (lathing).

6 – siding or lining, mounted according to the principle of a ventilated facade, with a gap (7). This kind of finishing, as already mentioned, no matter what material it is made of, will not make any noticeable contribution to the overall thermal resistance of the wall structure, and we do not take it into account.

So, to determine required thickness insulation, you need to know the thickness of each layer and their thermal conductivity coefficient.

Rn = Hn / λn

• Hn— thickness of a specific layer.
• λn— thermal conductivity coefficient of the material from which the layer is made.

As a result, the calculation formula takes the following form:

Hу = (R– H1/ λ1 – H2/ λ2 – H3/ λ3 … ) × λу

• Well– thickness of insulation.
• λу– coefficient of thermal conductivity of the selected thermo insulating material.

Find odds for various materials It’s easy to find reference books – there’s a lot of it posted on the Internet. Measuring the thickness of existing layers is also not difficult.

Despite the development modern technologies in construction, wooden houses are still often found in holiday villages, villages and villages. At the same time, one of the main issues when building such a house is proper organization of wall insulation.

Made with high quality, using the best materials, in accordance with regulations, thermal insulation helps preserve optimal temperature in the house in the summer, and with the onset of the long, harsh Russian winter.

As is known wood is extremely susceptible to mold development and the service life of a wooden structure directly depends on the degree of preservation of the structural elements. With the onset of winter and the first frosts, the heating season begins.

We strive to ensure a comfortable temperature inside the room, and meanwhile the logs and wooden beams from which the walls are made are subjected to the real test. Warm on one side, they come into contact with cold outside air on the other., and the result of this is a constantly formed, condensation that is harmful to wood.

The main goals of thermal insulation are to reduce heat loss in winter and maintain important elements in good condition.

Conventionally, wall insulation can be divided into two types:

• walls of a wooden house;
• insulation of house walls.

There are many skeptics who condemn this or that method, but each of them has its own pros and cons. The choice of a certain insulation method is due to a number of reasons and factors, but with strict adherence to technology and proper execution of work, selection of appropriate materials, any of them turns out to be effective.

The main difference between these two methods of insulation is essentially that on which side of the load-bearing walls of a wooden house will the insulation be carried out?, and, as a result, how effective it will be in terms of heat conservation and benefits for the entire structure.

Owners and owners resort to insulation from the inside wooden houses, who do not want to close unique ones, beautiful facades buildings made in original ways masonry or facades of architectural value. Such insulation will not be noticeable from the outside, and the appearance of the building will not change.

External insulation

The goal of external insulation is maximum efficiency.. It involves the creation of an insulating structure with outside load-bearing wooden walls and is more aimed at extending the life of the building, preserving all its important elements made of wood, protecting them from the destructive forces of nature and surrounding weather conditions.

External wall insulation remains quite common, often used in construction and renovation. And this is confirmed by a number of advantages:

• all temperature fluctuations, all the vagaries of the weather are taken over by a layer of insulation and finishing, accordingly, the service life of the wooden elements of the house increases significantly;
• the opportunity to insulate a long-built house. Often such houses are purchased ready-made in holiday villages along with plots, and it can be financially difficult to immediately rebuild a new house.;
• the interior of the house remains untouched, which is convenient from the point of view of living and organizing everyday life;
• the opportunity to choose a new look for your home due to the finishing

Pie wall

In other words - composition and order of all insulation elements. When insulating a wooden house from the inside, the so-called “pie” can be represented as follows:

• bearing wall;
• sheathing;
• insulation - mineral wool;
• vapor barrier film;
• finishing layer.

wall pie

Which insulation to choose?

When choosing insulation for the walls of a house, first of all should be addressed attention to the ability of the material to pass steam and air while retaining heat.

The severity of the climate of the region of residence should also be taken into account.

Insulation materials include:

• interventional insulation materials used during the construction stage;
• and insulation materials used for insulation from the outside or inside.

Inter-crown insulation is used in laying inter-crown joints. Such insulation can be synthetic or natural (from jute, moss, flax, hemp). The main property of these materials is low thermal conductivity and the ability to accumulate and release the resulting moisture. The most common today are insulation made from flax and jute fiber.

Basalt (mineral) wool is widely used to insulate walls from the outside or inside., or fiberglass wool in the form of rolls or mats, with a density of 80-120 kg/m3. In addition, it is an environmentally friendly material.

It is not recommended to use polystyrene foam or penoplex as an element of the pie., since these materials are vapor- and moisture-proof and prevent air exchange between the house and the outside environment.

The following materials may be suitable for insulation:

Mineral wool is the best insulation option

Sealing seams and joints of forming elements

This method is internal wall insulation, aimed at sealing joints and cracks in logs. In this case, various sealants are used (silicone, latex, acrylic, linen rope, tow). This method is convenient because it can be easily done with your own hands and does not require special skills, it does not interfere with the release of steam and is the most economically profitable.

Technically it is carried out as follows:

• the edges of joints and cracks are cleaned,
• cavities are filled with rope, foam rubber;
• a layer of sealant is applied on top;
• the sealant is smoothed with a brush until a smooth surface is formed;
• Remains of sealant are removed with a rag.

Sealing with sealant

Sealing seams with fabric

Sheathing preparation and installation

When installing the sheathing, you should rely on the thickness of the insulation. The thickness of the bars will be chosen the same. Most often the timber is chosen 10-50 mm thick and 100 mm wide.

Install the sheathing transversely to the laying of logs with a step between the bars equal to the width of the heat-insulating mats with minus 3 centimeters for a tight fit. The height of the sheathing is individual for individual rooms.

Parallel to the laying of logs, the lathing is also installed in the same way (the so-called “counter-lattice”). To install the sheathing, you should choose quality material without traces of rotting. Before installation, all wooden parts and surfaces should be treated with an antiseptic.

NOTE!

Do not use thin boards for lathing, since it simultaneously serves as a place for attaching finishing coatings.

Lathing

Do-it-yourself insulation of walls from the inside of a wooden house

Insulation of walls inside a wooden house using mineral wool. When using this method, glass wool, slag fiber, or mineral fiber mats are used.

This material is the most effective in terms of thermal insulation and sound insulation, and is environmentally friendly. However, due to its structure, mineral wool allows steam to pass through and is capable of accumulating water.

For this reason, when using it in insulation, layers of hydro- and vapor insulation must be used.

Mineral wool is available to customers in the form of rolls and mats. When insulating, it is most convenient to use mats by simply inserting them between the profiles of the sheathing made. In this case, the gaps between the mats should be no more than 2 mm. Such gaps are subsequently sealed with adhesive tape - preferably foil, or plumber's tape.

Step-by-step installation:

• being prepared required quantity mineral wool mats, based on calculations of the square footage of the walls of the premises;
• mineral wool is tightly inserted between the sheathing beams;
• the top mats are trimmed to height;
• Gaps and seams between mats are taped with mounting tape.

Some builders use foam plastic when insulating walls indoors. However, the main criterion for choosing in its favor is its low cost. From the point of view of efficiency, polystyrene foam does not have the property of transmitting steam, and the result of its use in the absence proper organization vapor and hydro insulation, will become the so-called “ Greenhouse effect "and the inevitable development of mold in rooms with such walls.

Laying mineral wool

Installation of insulation

Vapor barrier and waterproofing of walls

Insulation of wooden houses begins with waterproofing. This is the layer of special film closest to the load-bearing walls, the main task of which is to ensure air circulation and protection of the insulation layer from getting wet and freezing, preventing its destruction and preserving the tree from the development of mold bacteria.

Waterproofing is one of the most important aspects in wall insulation.

Waterproofing membrane

In the process of work, anti-condensation membranes, diffuse breathable films, polymer multilayer films, and vapor barrier membranes are used. When waterproofing, it is important to maintain complete tightness. To do this, the film is overlapped and nailed down using a stapler and staples, and the seams are sealed with mounting tape.

Vapor barrier is a finishing coating that is laid on top of mineral wool and serves to protect against the penetration of water vapor into the insulation structure.

The fastening is similar to the installation of waterproofing.

Vapor barrier

Conclusion

Thus, responsibly organized insulation of the walls of a log house can play a big role in the long and reliable operation of a wooden house. It will help reduce heat loss and also protect load-bearing elements buildings from all kinds of weather conditions.

However, the preparation of such an event should be approached responsibly. The service life of your home depends on how well it is carried out.

Useful video

Tips for insulating a wooden house from the inside:

In contact with

Having bought or built a wooden country house, its owners may soon be faced with the need to insulate it. There can be quite a few reasons for the low temperature inside a wooden house. Often this can be due to low-quality wood and insufficient thickness of logs. Therefore, in order to somehow correct the situation, you will need to insulate the wooden walls of the house. Work on insulating the walls of a wooden house is not particularly difficult; the main thing is to understand the technology of insulating wooden walls.

Features of insulation of wooden walls

Wood, due to its structure, has a number of unique qualities and requires a special approach to operation. Main feature of a material such as wood is its ability to “breathe”. This means that wooden walls can themselves regulate the microclimate in the house. You should also remember about the natural origin of logs, which are susceptible to mold and rot. It is the naturalness of wood that imposes certain restrictions on materials and methods of insulating a wooden house.

Let's start with materials for insulating a wooden house. They must have the following characteristics:

• high vapor permeability. Large or the same as wood 0.06 Mg/(m*h*Pa);
• have high moisture resistance;
• have high fire safety;
• be resistant to fungi and mold.

According to these basic requirements, the following materials are most suitable for insulating wooden walls:

• mineral wool;
• ecowool;
• sawdust granules.

In addition, facing bricks, aerated concrete blocks, and siding can be used to insulate a wooden house. Of course, stone in combination with insulation will create the most effective thermal insulation, but then you will have to sacrifice the external beauty of the wooden house.

Important! But to insulate wooden walls, use extruded polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, polyurethane foam, various sealants or polystyrene foam are strictly not recommended. These materials have extremely low vapor permeability, which in turn is fraught with the appearance of mold and fungi on wooden walls, and ultimately rot.

In preparation for insulating wooden walls, Special attention It is worth paying attention to the technology of creating a thermal insulation layer. The main rule that should be followed is the following: the vapor permeability of each subsequent layer should be higher than the previous one, in the direction from interior spaces to the street. According to this simple truth, the thermal insulation of a wooden house is created, which is a multi-layer cake. The structure of such a cake for insulating walls from the outside consists of lathing and counter lathing, thermal insulation, wind and moisture insulation. Internal insulation of wooden walls also follows this rule, the only difference being that instead of windproofing, vapor barrier is used.

Important! If you just can’t decide how best to insulate wooden walls, from the inside or outside, then there is definitely one answer - you should choose insulating wooden walls from the outside. This is due to several reasons:

• Firstly, the interior living space of the house will be preserved.
• Secondly, due to the properties of wood to accumulate and release moisture, external insulation is most effective.
• Thirdly, external insulation of wooden walls is much easier to create.
• Fourthly, when external insulation the number of cold bridges is minimal.

Of course, insulating a wooden wall from the inside is also possible, but only if it is impossible to create external insulation.

Calculation of the insulation layer

Calculation optimal thickness insulation layer is one of the most important stages in insulating any house, especially a wooden one. This task must be approached with all responsibility, since an error in the calculations will, at a minimum, entail extra financial costs for insulation, and at maximum will lead to damage to wooden walls. Therefore, if you are not familiar with formulas and calculations, it is better to contact specialists on this issue. We will look at an example of a calculation with comments and explanations, by which you can determine what layer of thermal insulation is required for your home.

To perform calculations, you will need to refer to SNiP 02/23/2003 “Thermal protection of buildings”, as well as TSN (territorial building codes). In these regulatory documents all necessary initial data for calculations and calculation methodology are provided. The calculations themselves are based on the thermal resistance of materials, which is constant and individual for each region. For example, in the Moscow region this figure is 4.15 (m2*°C)/W. It is also worth noting that when calculating, one should take into account the thermal resistance (R) of each material in the thermal insulation cake and sum them up. To perform calculations, you need the thermal conductivity of the materials used and their thickness.

The formula for calculating thermal resistance is as follows: R = P/ K.

Where P is the thickness of the material, K is the thermal conductivity coefficient of the material. For example, the outside of a wooden wall is finished facing bricks, and between them there is a layer of mineral wool. Then the total heat transfer resistance of such a wall will be equal to the sum of the resistances of each of the materials.

Based on the above formula, we will calculate the thickness of the thermal insulation layer. The formula for calculation is P=R*K. We take data on thermal conductivity from the table of thermal conductivity of materials or from the packaging of the material used, and thermal resistance from regulatory documents.

For example, for Moscow and the region, the heat transfer resistance is 4.15 (m2*°C)/W. If we insulate a 20 cm thick wooden wall with siding with mineral wool, then for wood the thermal resistance is 0.806 (m2*°C)/W, and for mineral wool 0.045 (m2*°C)/W. Accordingly, the insulation layer must have a thermal resistance R=4.15-0.806-0.045=3.299 m2*°C.

Now we take the thermal conductivity coefficient of mineral wool 0.41 W/m*K and multiply by the thermal resistance P = 3.299*0.041=0.135 m. Similarly, you can calculate the layer thickness for any other insulation in different regions countries.

All that remains is to calculate the insulation area and purchase all the materials necessary for this. First of all, this is the mineral wool itself, wind and moisture protection, as well as vapor barrier. In addition, you will need wooden slats with a thickness of 130x50 mm, height, equal height insulated walls, and fasteners to them. As a fastener for wooden slats you can use regular long screws or metal corners with holes for self-tapping screws. The number of slats is taken on the basis that the distance between them should be 2 - 5 cm less than the width of the insulation mats. Fastening elements are purchased at the rate of 1 - 2 fastening points per 1 linear meter. We also purchase slats 50x30 mm or 50x20 mm for the counter-lattice. The total number of such slats is taken on the basis that the counter-lattice frame consists of 3 horizontal rows along the entire perimeter of the house.

As already noted, insulating wooden walls from the outside is the simplest and most affordable way insulation. You should start insulating a wooden house in a year or two. This is important, since the tree shrinks during this time, which leads to a change in the height of the building. In addition, when shrinking, new cracks will appear that will have to be caulked well.

Do-it-yourself insulation of wooden walls from the outside can be done in various ways. Let's consider the most common one - mineral wool insulation with siding trim. The work takes place in several stages:

1. We check the walls for the presence of cracks and the tight fit of the logs or beams to each other.

2. If necessary, caulk all the cracks found.

3. First, measure the total length of the wall from edge to edge. Then we divide it into equal intervals 2 - 5 cm long, smaller than the mineral wool mat.

4. Apply markings for the sheathing on the wall.

5. Prepare the bars for the sheathing by cutting them to the required length.

6. First, we fix the bars around the perimeter of the wall. One above the foundation, one under the canopy and two at the edges.

7. In the resulting box, we place and first secure the frame around the window and doorways, and then the vertical bars of the sheathing according to the markings.

Important! If the length of one bar is not enough to cover the height of the wall, then the missing pieces must be placed in a checkerboard pattern in each subsequent rack. For example, the 1st rack consists of a long piece on the bottom and a short piece on top, the 2nd rack consists of a short block on the bottom and a long piece on top.

8. Now we take the mineral wool mats and insert them between the frame posts. Since the distance between the bars is slightly less than the width of the mat, the mineral wool will be held inside by a spacer. To reduce the number of cold bridges, mineral wool can be laid in two layers. To do this, it is enough to buy mats of smaller thickness. For example, with a thickness of the total insulation layer of 13 cm, you can use mats 50 mm or 70 mm thick. In this case, each subsequent layer is laid with an offset relative to the first.

9. On top of the insulation we lay a layer of moisture and wind insulation made from a superdiffusion membrane. We attach it to the frame using a stapler.

10. We stuff the counter lathing, thus creating a ventilation gap of 30 mm between the insulation and the finishing material.

11. Finally, the facade is finished with siding.

If you plan to finish with facing bricks, then it is better to use ecowool granules or sawdust granules as insulation. These materials, when backfilled between wooden wall and the cladding will fill all the voids, thereby creating reliable thermal insulation protection. Insulating wooden walls from the outside with mineral wool and finishing with facing bricks is similar in technology to finishing with siding. The difference lies in the ones used finishing materials and the mandatory presence of a brick foundation.

As already noted, insulating wooden walls from the inside is quite a rare occurrence. Typically, this method of insulation is chosen when it is not possible to provide external insulation. The technology for performing the work is in many ways similar to external insulation, but there are a number of differences. Let's take a closer look at the stages and features of the work when insulating wooden walls from the inside:

1. After the house has settled, we check them for the presence of cracks and carefully caulk them.

2. Drill small holes in the crowns for ventilation.

3. We mark the places for installing the counter-lattice.

4. Cut the bars for the counter-lattice and fasten them to the wall. This will create a ventilated gap between the wall and the insulation, which in turn will keep the walls from rotting from the inside.

Important! Since the insulation will not be located over the entire area of ​​the wall, the natural bridges of cold will be the floor, interior walls and ceiling. To cover them, you will need to insulate the surface of the ceiling and floor. You can see what this looks like in the demo internal insulation wooden walls photo.

5. We cover the counter-lattice with a superdiffusion membrane and secure it to the bars using a stapler.

6. We mark the places for installing the main sheathing. We start from the corners and bring them to the center. At the same time, do not forget about the door and window openings. In them, the bars will frame the opening around the perimeter.

7. First, we fix the bars around the perimeter of the wall, and then install the vertical ones and in the openings. We take the distance between the bars 2 - 5 cm less than the insulation mats.

8. Take the insulation and insert it between the sheathing strips. As in the case of external insulation, we lay out the insulation in two layers, offset to each other. This will eliminate possible cold bridges.

9. We lay a vapor barrier over the insulation and secure it to the studs using a stapler.

10. After completing the installation of thermal insulation of the walls, we insulate the ceiling and floor. This will allow the wall thermal insulation to be placed behind the floor and eliminate possible cold bridges.

11. We cover the walls with plasterboard and do the finishing.

The method described above for insulating a wooden wall from the inside involves the use of mineral wool mats. In addition to it, you can also use ecowool granules or sawdust granules. But unlike external insulation, granules will have to be blown into the space between the wall and the vapor barrier film, which is somewhat inconvenient and requires special equipment.

Carrying out work on insulating wooden walls requires only skillful handling of the tool. Of course, when comparing external and internal insulation, one can note the complexity of implementation and the demanding nature of work performed inside the house. Therefore, if you do not have sufficient experience, it is better to opt for external insulation, and if it is not possible, turn to more experienced craftsmen.

Wood has been used in construction since ancient times. This material is valued for its availability and thermal conductivity properties. A house made of timber requires proper care, then it will always be comfortable. Many have noticed that two or three years after construction the house becomes noticeably colder. This is due to the fact that all the walls of the building are in constant motion.

The position of the beams changes slightly and cracks appear along the seams; even correctly installed windows begin to let in drafts over time. Construction flaws can also manifest themselves. In fact, it is not difficult to correct all these reasons even with your own hands. If you don’t want to spoil the appearance of your home, we’ll tell you how to insulate log house from the inside.

Why is it cold inside a wooden house:

1. Walls. Small gaps in the seams of a wooden house are the most common reason lack of heat in the premises.
2. Windows and doors. Eternal sources of drafts and heat losses in any home.
3. Ceiling. From physics course we know that warm air rises. If the upper part of a timber house is not insulated enough, the heat simply escapes outside.
4. First floor floor. In any house he has large area. Cold from the ground can greatly cool the air in your home.

Let's consider in order what you can do with your own hands for each of these reasons.

First, the walls of the house need to be caulked. For this purpose it is used special tool- caulk. If it is not there, use a hard spatula or a wide screwdriver. Tow, hemp, felt or jute rope. It’s not difficult to do this with your own hands, the main thing is to follow the sequence of actions correctly.

You need to start caulking from the bottom seam around the entire perimeter of the house, only then move on to the next one.

The insulation needs to be hammered into the cracks of the timber as tightly and deeply as possible. You need to understand that after finishing the work, the ceiling height will increase by several centimeters. Therefore, if you caulk each part of the house separately, one of the walls may collapse - the timber will simply jump out of the groove. Another way is to apply acrylic or silicone sealant at the joint of the timber.

If you are not satisfied with the achieved result, experts advise additional insulation of the walls with thermal insulation. To do this, a guide beam is mounted vertically on the wall; its height should be equal to the thickness of the insulating material. The entire surface is covered with a layer of waterproofing. Insulation is placed tightly between the guides, without gaps. Any sheet material. After this, all that remains is to do the decorative wall covering.

Windows and doors - how to get rid of the cold

Two main causes of cold from entrance doors and windows - drafts and insufficient thermal insulation. Very often the cold from openings is confused with drafts. To determine the cause of a heat leak, you just need to make sure whether the doors and windows are actually blowing or not. To do this, you need to hold a burning lighter at a short distance along the perimeter of the frame and sashes.

If there is a draft coming from the sashes, all joints need to be sealed. To do this, it will be enough to glue the silicone seal with your own hands. You can also use foam rubber, but it has a short service life. You can also seal the windows with construction tape for the winter.

If there is a leak around the perimeter of the frame, you need to remove the trim and window sill to get to the opening between the wall and the frame. Then the opening is covered with waterproofing and insulated. Any roll insulation or polyurethane foam can be used as thermal insulation. The top of the insulation must be covered with aluminum or reinforced tape, after which the platbands are put in place.

If there is a cold draft from the door, but there is no draft, you need to check the thermal insulation of the door. To do this, experts advise simply tapping on the canvas. The structure, which is hollow from the inside, will have to be changed. A single-glazed window may freeze during the cold season. In this case, you will have to install new windows.

Insulation of the roof and ceiling of a wooden house

Many people do not consider heat loss through the roof and ceiling to be significant. In fact, there are often gaps there through which timber house It just heats the street. Also, the roof surface can heat up due to poor thermal insulation of the ceiling. By getting rid of these losses, you can save up to 60% of heating costs.

Before you start insulating top part wooden house, the entire seam of the upper beam of the wall and the roof structure should be sealed.

If the attic in the house is uninhabited, insulating the ceiling with your own hands is very simple. To do this, a layer of thermal insulation of about forty centimeters is laid there. You need to understand that the insulation for the ceiling should be light. Typically, sawdust, polystyrene foam, mineral wool and other lightweight materials are used for this purpose.

If the ceiling is a roof vault, insulation is a little more complicated. To begin with, the entire surface of the roof from the inside needs to be covered with a layer of waterproofing so that moisture does not get on the insulation. Thermal insulation of the roof is done in two ways:

1. Sheet insulation is laid tightly to each other. In this case, you need to pay special attention to the absence of gaps between the sheets, because between them the heat will still escape out.
2. Sheet insulation is laid overlapping from top to bottom. This is done for additional protection from moisture; it will simply flow down the sheets of thermal insulation.

After this, it remains to refine the surface decorative cladding. Lining is perfect for this purpose.

Solving the cold floor problem

Heating a home will not work efficiently if the floors in the house are cold. They cool the room and prevent the air from warming up.

It is very easy to insulate a wooden floor; to do this, you need to remove the floor covering. In order not to confuse the order in which the boards were laid, it is better to mark them in advance. This will save a lot of time during assembly. Then the entire surface between the joists is covered with waterproofing so that the insulation does not absorb moisture from the soil.

Thermal insulation material is laid on it in such a way that there are no slightest cracks across the entire surface of the floor. Any insulation that is not afraid of moisture can be used. You need to lay another layer of waterproofing on top, because when cleaning the premises, water can get in there and accumulate inside. After this, the floor boards will need to be laid in the reverse order.

Cement floors are insulated in two ways. If the height of the premises allows, logs made of wooden beams are laid on the floor. Insulation is laid between them, which is covered with waterproofing on top. Then the floor is covered with boards.

If the height of the ceiling does not allow you to raise the floor level, you need to remove the cement screed and remove the floor backfill by about half a meter. After this, the pit is waterproofed and insulation is filled in. Expanded clay is usually used for this. A layer of polystyrene foam or other dense material is placed on top of it. A new screed is made on top.

An important stage in construction modern houses is their thermal insulation. The main goals of insulation are to create a comfortable temperature in the premises and more economical consumption of energy resources used for heating.

Both wood and stone buildings need thermal insulation.

According to building regulations, insulation must be done externally. The reason is that the dew point is located at outside rooms in insulating material or in the front layer of load-bearing structures. With this method of thermal insulation, condensation will not form on the walls of the rooms.

But this insulation option is not the only one. Thermal insulation is carried out not only from the outside, but also from the inside. In some situations, internal insulation is the only correct option. For example, if a homeowner wants to keep external presentability, which distinguishes wooden buildings, or the architectural appearance of the house has historical value.

We suggest you learn how to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside with your own hands. different types thermal insulation materials.

Causes of heat loss in a wooden house

As a rule, wooden houses are very comfortable. Such buildings are cool in the warm season and warm in the winter.

A decrease in temperature inside a wooden house is caused by two main factors:

• improper vapor barrier;
• cracks that appeared in an old building due to the drying out of wood over time.

Is it possible to insulate a wooden house from the inside? Of course, and if the house is old, it’s even necessary! In order to perform thermal insulation from the inside, it is necessary to choose the right materials and follow the technology provided for such a task.

Insulation work on both new and old wooden houses is carried out in stages.

How and with what to properly insulate a wooden house from the inside with your own hands? Let's consider the stages of internal wall insulation and select environmentally friendly insulation for internal thermal insulation.

Preparation

All actions related to the construction and improvement of residential buildings must be preceded by calculations - this rule also applies to the insulation of a wooden building.
Calculations make it possible to find out the degree of effectiveness of thermal insulation and find out whether it is, in principle, possible to carry out insulation from the inside.

Insulating material always fulfills its purpose, but the location of the dew point plays a decisive role. Under no circumstances should it be placed on the inside of load-bearing structures, especially in insulating material, and the task of the calculations is to demonstrate this.

When placing the dew point from the inside the room will be quite comfortable temperature regime, but in winter there is always dampness, leading to soaking of thermal insulation materials, rotting of wood, and the formation of mold.

Provided that the dew point does not end up in the inside of the room even in winter, thermal insulation can be done from the inside.

But at the same time, the internal space of living quarters will inevitably have to be sacrificed.

Selecting materials

There are a number of requirements for materials used for internal thermal insulation of wooden houses:

• low heat conductivity;
• fire resistance;
• strength;
• environmental Safety.

Thermal insulation methods are selected based on the materials used for this purpose.

How to insulate a house from the inside? Currently, several types of insulation for house walls are produced:

Modern insulation materials have many advantages: lightness, flexibility, excellent thermal insulation parameters.

Seal the joints

Having decided to take on the task of insulating a wooden house with your own hands, you need to take into account one important point. A wooden structure shrinks, a process that takes several months. In addition to shrinkage, when the heating system in the premises is brought into operation, the wood begins to dry out at high speed. This is reflected in the configuration of logs and beams.

Initially densely spaced wooden elements Large gaps can form at the junction points, releasing heat into the street.

For this reason, the first step in thermal insulation of a wooden household should be sealing the seams.

For this purpose, sealants and other materials are used. It is convenient to seal the cracks with a wide chisel.

If the gaps are large, use rolled tow.

At this stage the main thing is to stop the exit warm air through the cracks.

Important! Do not forget about the safety of electrical wiring when sealing cracks, especially if it is located on the surface: in this case, be sure to separate it and insulate it from the wall.

Protection of wood from fire and biological factors

Part of the supporting structures located from the inside, on long time will be covered with an insulating layer. Taking this into account, the wood should be treated with agents that protect it from fire and mold. You cannot save on treatment with such compounds, and you need to choose high-quality products to ensure good protection.

When treating load-bearing structures with agents that have fire and bioprotective effects, you need to take into account that wooden fences also need treatment, since they will also be located in the insulation.

Ventilation

For what reason did owners of private houses previously not think much about ventilation of buildings? The thing is that previously ventilation was carried out naturally - through loosely located windows and cavities in the walls. This is typical for old log houses even now.

The materials used for the construction of modern buildings avoid gaps and cracks through which air flows can circulate. But this does not mean that there should be no air movement in the rooms at all. Modern buildings are designed ventilation systems. Such systems remove recycled air from rooms and provide an influx of fresh air.

Properly performed internal insulation must provide ventilation. Only in this case the microclimate in the house will be optimal.

The insulation itself, which has a porous structure, for example, mineral wool, also needs ventilation. For this reason, there must be a small distance between the supporting structure and the heat-insulating material for unhindered air circulation and removal of excess moisture. In this case, the humidity level throughout the room will be uniform.

Making such a gap is not difficult. A wooden strip measuring about 25 mm in size is attached to the supporting structures at an equal distance, and a vapor barrier film is attached on top of it. Thus, a small distance is formed between the wall and the heat-insulating material for air movement, which protects against moisture internal structures and insulating material.

On a note! If the walls of the building are made of logs with a cylindrical configuration, then ventilation gaps are formed naturally. If laminated timber was used to build the house, it is recommended to take care of designing the ventilation gap.

Vapor barrier layer

The use of thermal insulation materials such as glass wool, mineral wool, and expanded polystyrene (non-pressed variety) for insulation requires the installation of a vapor barrier.

It is mounted as follows: a vapor barrier membrane is attached to the ventilation sheathing. A stapler is used for fastening.

Important point! During installation vapor barrier membrane Be sure to pull the film tightly so that there is a gap between the supporting structure and it for ventilation.

The connection of two sheets of vapor barrier film is made with an overlap of at least 10 cm and secured with tape.

If an extruded type of polystyrene foam is used as a thermal insulation material, then there is no need for a vapor barrier layer. Extruded polystyrene foam is characterized by waterproofing properties, preventing the penetration of moisture.

Fencing installation

In all options for thermal insulation of internal load-bearing structures of a log or timber house, with the exception of the use of isoplat, installation of a fence is required. Typically, timber with square section(50 mm). The distance of the wooden block depends on the width of the insulating material.

When using mineral wool, the step between the placement of the bars should be 10 mm smaller in comparison with the width of the heat insulator in order to achieve maximum tightness.

When using extruded polystyrene foam, the step is made in accordance with the width of the sheets of material.

Important! Before installation, be sure to treat all wooden blocks with a composition that has fire and bioprotective properties.

The bars are attached with screws directly to the wooden load-bearing structures. If there is a sheathing to form a ventilation gap, the beams are attached to the installed slats. It is recommended to insert fasteners into pre-made small holes (use a thin drill for this) so that the wood does not crack.

In some cases, the fence is made of plasterboard profiles attached to supporting structures using direct hangers. This is done only if the cladding is made of plasterboard.

Wooden bars are preferable because they have lower heat conductivity compared to metal products.

In the process of thermal insulation of the ceiling, the fence is designed according to a similar principle. When insulating a floor, wooden logs to which the finishing coating is attached serve as a fence.

Installation of heat insulator

Insulation material is placed in the cavity between the enclosing elements. If the heat insulator is in the form of sheets, then wall installation should start from the bottom, and when using roll material- from above, moving down.

Mineral wool sheets are placed sideways, due to which their reliable fastening. But this material, just like foam plastic, needs additional fastening with nails (one for each sheet).

Thermal insulation in rolls is attached to the top of the wall with one screw, then the material is unrolled and attached with nails at a distance of one meter.

First, solid sheets are installed, and the remaining areas where trimming is necessary are filled with insulating material at the very end.

If the roof is sloping, the ceiling insulator unfolds from the bottom in the direction from bottom to top and is secured with nails or with a cord. Small nails are nailed to adjacent bars at a distance of 15 cm, and after laying heat insulating material, a cord is stretched in a zigzag between the beams, which will ensure reliable fastening of the insulation.

When insulating with extruded polystyrene foam, all existing gaps in the seams are sealed with construction foam. Applying foam requires pre-wetting the surfaces. Dried excess foam is cut off with a knife.

Video about insulating walls from the inside

The video tutorial below shows how to properly insulate a wooden house from the inside: