How to make water heating correctly. Why water heating? Alternative methods of water heating of a private house

Reading time ≈ 19 minutes

For those who live outside the city or just in a small town or village, it will be quite useful to know how to properly install heating in a private home. The approach here is very important from both a financial and a practical point of view, that is, do I have enough money to carry out the project and do I need this or that heating method to ensure warmth in all living rooms building. Of course, these are questions of a personal nature, and now we will look at the main directions that are used in the private sector, and quite successfully.

Three main systems for heating a private home

Installation radiator heating in a private house

There are many ways to heat houses in the private sector, but recently three of them can be called the most popular:

1. Radiator heating.
2. Water heated floor system.
3. Combination of radiator heating and water heated floor system.

Maybe someone will say that the most popular on this moment is stove heating. Maybe. However, we will still talk about autonomous water heating and methods of its installation. But before that, you need to pay a little attention to the elements of the heating systems from which the circuit is assembled in any case.

Devices and elements used for heating

Aluminum radiators of different sizes

Today, if we don’t talk about their configuration, there are three types of radiators that differ in metal and these are:

• cast iron;
• steel;
• aluminum;
• bimetal

If we are talking about the private sector, then heating can only be autonomous and only 0.1% of private houses are connected to centralized boiler houses. These are the houses that were once built by enterprises for their workers, but over time were bought out, and central heating in some places it still remains, although not in all of them.

• Means, cast iron radiators disappear immediately, since they take too long to heat up and require a large amount of water, which is not at all suitable for autonomy - too many expenses.
• Steel batteries, both sectional and panel (non-removable), are excellent for a private home - they have good heat transfer and a pleasant appearance, but they begin to rust and fail the fastest.
• Aluminum radiators are intended exclusively for autonomous heating and there are two reasons for this: firstly, they will not withstand very high pressure and, secondly, special additives must be added to the coolant, which is impossible with a centralized water supply.
• , This perfect option, both for the private sector and for multi-storey buildings. They withstand the highest possible pressure, but in this case we are not interested in this, but they have excellent heat transfer, and the service life is almost equal to cast iron, that is, if for cast iron it is 30-35 years, then for bimetal it is 25-30 years .

Cross-linked polyethylene pipe layers

For a heated floor system, not even according to the instructions, but by default, a pipe made of high quality cross-linked polyethylene (PEX) should be used. The problem here is that, firstly, it is an expensive material, although a good one, and, secondly, when pouring the second layer of screed, which is done on top of the heated floor system, the pipes need to be filled with water so as not to flatten them with the solution (this causes certain inconveniences). But practice has shown that cheaper metal plastic is excellent for this purpose, only it must be seamless - this ensures its strength. From own experience I can say that the metal-plastic underfloor heating systems installed 10-15 years ago by me personally are still functioning successfully.

Setting up dual-circuit convection gas boiler

If we talk about boilers for water heating, they can be:

• gas;
• electrical;
• diesel;
• solid fuel.

Be that as it may, but gas units, of course, is the best and there are several reasons for this. Firstly, dual-circuit models provide hot water supply for the home without installing a boiler indirect heating, secondly, such units can be not only convection, but also condensation (low temperature), energy-dependent and non-volatile, as well as modern models must have a built-in one circulation pump. More gas boilers of any type are equipped with built-in groups of various equipment: for automatic adjustment temperature conditions and safety group.

Unfortunately, not every area has the ability to connect to a gas main and then most often use electric boilers different types, but in 99% of cases, these are heating elements, although some prefer electrode or induction models. But here, not everything is so smooth - at a distance from the city, due to old transformers, sometimes there is not enough voltage to provide normal operation electric unit and then they purchase diesel or solid fuel boilers. Of course, this is a personal matter for everyone, but a wood-burning boiler wins over a diesel one for several reasons. Firstly, solar fuel is more expensive than firewood, secondly, firewood does not require nozzles, which a diesel engine cannot do without, and thirdly, solid fuel boilers are much cleaner to operate (no soot or unpleasant odor).

Advantages and disadvantages of water heating

Integrated water heating system in the private sector

To begin with, as always, oh positive qualities water heating systems:

• First of all, there is no need for daily cleaning and lighting of the stove.
• The microclimate can be adjusted in each room individually.
• You can leave home even for a month, leaving the boiler in the on position - it will work in the specified mode.
• Aesthetics of installation, both radiator and floor circuits.
• You don’t have to worry about storing fuel every year for the winter.

Of course, this method also has its downsides:

• High cost of equipment (boiler, radiators, pipes).
• In some cases, water leaks are possible in the radiator circuit.
• If you do not use the heating system in winter, there is a danger of defrosting.

As you can see, water heating has many more advantages than disadvantages, and this is not surprising - after all, such designs are a child of scientific and technological progress. In addition, this type of coolant is by far the cheapest, and therefore the most profitable. If you calculate all the costs as a whole, then the cost of stove heating, taking into account the time spent on it, will not be much lower at its price.

Radiator heating

You can, of course, talk about a radiator heating system in a general sense, like it’s convection heating from appliances distributed throughout the house and the like, but this is meaningless information, since everyone knows about it. Here it is important to highlight other factors, such as the number of pipes for the coolant, their location and the method of connecting heating devices to them.

Differences between single-pipe radiator circuits

Single-pipe heating system with natural circulation

Many people in private houses, especially small ones, prefer “one-pipe” and this is quite logical - installation is somewhat cheaper than for two-pipe wiring. Although it is cheaper only for small houses, for a large building this is already a controversial issue. The essence of the coolant movement here is as follows - it moves sequentially through all radiators, and having reached the last one, it returns to the boiler. In addition, such systems, compared to two-pipe systems, are easier to install, but this is only one side of the coin.

The fact is that the water, passing through each battery, becomes colder and colder, and often the very last device hardly heats up - it is almost impossible to correct this situation. The more points, the greater the cooling of the water, although this is somewhat compensated by the circulation pump, which does not allow the coolant to cool so quickly. For this reason, they try to make the plots as short as possible, in any case, a maximum of 30 m, and this is not always enough even for an average house. But, be that as it may, such systems “take place.”

Horizontal connection

Horizontal connection a) bottom; b) diagonal

The horizontal heating scheme in a private house is very convenient for one-story buildings, but here, in fact, there are three ways to install radiators. The two most popular are shown in the image above, that is, the pipe is laid near the floor, and radiators are connected to it using elbows. This is the most effective way to save coolant energy for a horizontal connection, that is, with this method the water cools less and the last point is still hot, although, of course, not as hot as the first two or three.

In addition, pay attention to the diagonal connection, it depends on the direction of water movement, that is, first the top, then the bottom - this is how the heating devices warm up best, since the sections are filled evenly. That is, with sufficient pressure, the coolant does not immediately fall down the first section, but is distributed further - from the vertical pipe of the device down along the ribs. With a bottom connection, often top part the radiator is colder, since the movement of water mainly occurs along the lower pipe of the device, only slightly affecting the upper zone of the ribs.

The principle of this system is “from radiator to radiator”

Ditto for horizontal wiring Sometimes the principle “from radiator to radiator” is practiced. This is when the coolant, having passed through one radiator, immediately enters the next one, that is, such a circuit does not provide for a separate pipe, but is itself a highway. If one battery is removed, the entire system becomes inoperable because it interrupts the flow. Of course, there is no dispute, this is the most economical of all possible options, because it will require a minimum number of pipes to connect the points to each other. But the heat loss for remote points here is very strong and I myself had to deal with the fact that the owners asked to redo such a scheme.

Vertical layout

Vertical distribution of radiators in the heating system is necessary for several floors

This wiring option, as in the diagram above, is used in multi-storey buildings and a striking example of this is the “Stalinka”, “Khrushchevka” and “Brezhnevka”. This principle was adopted by the owners of two-story private houses and it must be said that it works, if only because no one turns the flow of water instead of a pipe through their own battery. The connection in this case is very similar to the horizontal one, but without diagonals, that is, it is either bottom or side. This, of course, is a big drawback and most often it is necessary to install an additional circulation pump.

This additional draft is especially important when the house is divided into two wings - heating on the side of the boiler is normal, but in the wing next to it it is cold. But here you need to be careful - if the power of the circulation pump installed in the adjacent wing exceeds the power of the pump integrated into the boiler, then everything will be exactly the opposite. This means that the coolant will flow out to the adjacent wing, and the wing in which the boiler is installed will turn out to be cold. In addition, if there are a large number of radiators, they are installed balancing valves, which allow you to distribute the feed evenly across all points. All these are the costs of “single-tube” devices, but, I repeat, people use them quite successfully.

Leningradka system

Leningradka wiring system

Firstly, “Leningradka” is not know-how, but an ordinary one-pipe system horizontal type, but without a circulation pump, but with a pipe slope, due to which circulation occurs. Secondly, such a layout does not allow more than three radiators and is only suitable for small houses, for example, a room-bedroom-kitchen, so there won’t even be enough left for a bath. If a circulation pump appears on the return line, then make no mistake - this is no longer a “Leningrad”, but the most common single pipe system with forced supply of coolant.

One-pipe wiring. Is it as cheap as it seems?

Two-pipe heating system

You need to figure out how to install heating in a private home yourself and do it correctly, that is, without errors during installation. If we combine all the methods of such wiring together, we can say that these are two pipes, where hot water is supplied through one, and through the other the cooled liquid flows into the boiler for further heating. Radiators are inserted between these two circuits; the coolant, having passed through each of them, is immediately discharged into the return line. In fact, the number of heating devices here is not limited and until the liquid in the pipe cools down due to the distance, all radiators under certain conditions will have an equal chance of temperature regime.

Such systems can be both natural and forced circulation and have three types of device connections:

1. Top connection.
2. Bottom connection.
3. Collector (radial) connection.

Top Wiring Systems

Systems with top wiring more suitable for natural circulation

Numbering in the image:

1. Heating boiler.
2. Main riser.
3. Coolant supply wiring.
4. Supply risers.
5. Return risers.
6. Main return.
7. Expansion tank.

In the top image you see the installation of heating with overhead wiring - this design is visually familiar, perhaps, to every adult, and hardly anyone is delighted with the pipe running near the ceiling or directly above the radiators. But this is a forced, but unusually effective option for the natural circulation of coolant, which was practiced in those days when they did not even think about circulation pumps. This method is still practiced for solid fuel boilers in our time, because it is not always possible to install a pump for forced supply.

The essence of this method is as follows: water is heated in boiler No. 1 and, naturally, following the laws of physics, it expands, therefore, rises through the main riser No. 2. The coolant continues along inclined bed No. 3. The slope is 0.01%, that is, it is 10 mm per linear meter. From the sun lounger, hot water enters risers No. 4, where the radiators are embedded, and after passing through the radiator, the coolant is discharged first into return riser No. 5 (this is for several floors), and then enters the main return pipe No. 6. This is the end of the cycle - along a flat return line, where the same slope (10 mm per linear meter) water is again sent to the boiler for heating and the start of a new cycle. In case of overheating, which often happens in unregulated boilers, the coolant rises into expansion tank without causing any harm to the system.

This wiring is very convenient; the radiators on it have a diagonal connection, therefore, they warm up completely, without “dead” zones. A natural circulation system is suitable for use in the private sector, but not only for one floor - it can be equipped with up to three floors, but then the boiler will have to be raised to the 2nd or 3rd floor. In this case, the height of the heater reduces the need for high pressure injection, therefore, the higher the boiler, the large area can be heated.

Bottom-wired systems

Bottom wiring for forced coolant circulation

In this case, the principle of supply and discharge of coolant remains the same as with natural circulation, but the presence of a pump (integrated into the boiler or additional) allows the supply circuit to be mounted below. This makes it possible to use closed pipes- they are filled with screed, hidden under drywall or recessed in grooves under the plaster. Most often in such cases they use bottom connection radiators to minimize the visibility of the pipes, but this is not important - the connection can also be lateral or diagonal, depending on the need.

But if there are a lot of radiators, heat loss cannot be avoided in any case, since the circuit will have to be extended. That is, if the first points on a segment of ten meters heat up by 100% or a little less, then along the pipe the heating will still drop due to the distance. To some extent, these losses are compensated by a larger feed diameter, for example, if the bends are made PPR Ø 20 mm, then the contour itself is PPR 25 mm or even PPR 32 mm. But such a measure is only partial and cannot evenly distribute heat to all points. Therefore, balancing valves are installed on the first radiators - these are essentially shut-off valves, only more precise, regulating the flow of coolant.

A huge advantage in this case is that the contour does not need a slope - it is usually mounted along a horizontal line, and sometimes even with a counter-slope. Another very important point: if it is planned to insert an additional circulation pump, then it is installed only on the return line - it works most effectively on suction, and not on push. An expansion tank is also installed in such systems, but of the membrane type - it serves as an auxiliary device for the integrated circulation pump, creating pressure. In case of overheating, the boiler has a safety group with a blast valve.

Systems with collector (beam) wiring

Manifold wiring of radiators in a private residential building

No matter how good a two-pipe heating system is, nevertheless, there will be heat loss even with a circulation pump - this mainly depends on the length of the circuit and the longer it is, the more losses the outer radiators suffer. Of course, the way out is mainly balancing valves, but setting them up is not so easy, especially for a person who has never worked with heating - too much time is spent on adjustment.

Therefore in big house where many heating appliances sometimes use the collector or beam distribution radiators. This does not mean that each battery is connected separately from the collector - one comb channel usually works for a group of heating devices. In such cases, losses are minimal, although sometimes it is also necessary to use balancing valves. The main disadvantage of this layout can be called a large number of pipes and this is not only a financial, but also a technical problem - the more pipes, the more difficult it is to lay them, since everything needs to be disguised.

There is another wiring option, very similar to the lower one in technology, but differing in the connection order. You can watch it in the video below. This is Tichelman's scheme. I deliberately omitted its description, since it is much clearer in the video.

Three radiator wiring diagrams

Warm floor

The underfloor heating system is mainly a privilege of the private sector, since it requires exclusively autonomous heating. Of course, there are a few cases of residents of multi-storey buildings refusing the services of a centralized boiler house, but the red tape that lies behind all this does not in any way contribute to enthusiasm.

Laying a pipe with a single (left) and double (right) snake

First, let's look at the methods of laying the heating circuit of a heated floor and at the top you see a single (left) and double (right) snake. From the picture it immediately becomes clear that the first method is bad, since the heating of the floors will be uneven, and this is simply unpleasant for the feet, although the room can warm up completely. Double laying distributes heat evenly over the entire floor area.

Spiral pipe laying

Of course, in most cases, this is not a square, but a round figure, but the principle of laying does not change from this - first, towards the center, the feed is laid, and then returned to the starting point to the collector. This is the most effective method for installation of underfloor heating systems and is used in approximately 80% of cases. A snake is most often needed in hard-to-reach places: under the stairs, behind the bar counter, and so on.

Mounting methods: on brackets (left), on clamps (right)

To fix both polyethylene and metal-plastic pipes so that they do not move out of place, use fastenings in the form of brackets or clamps, but at the same time adhere to a pitch of 200 mm with any laying configuration. Foil must be placed under the contour (most often it is 2-mm foam foil), and if necessary, the bottom screed is insulated).

Wiring of the heated floor system from the collectors

A pipe that is filled with a screed (polyethylene or foam) is never connected directly to the boiler, even if it is singular, but only through a manifold (in common parlance, a comb). This allows you to install a separate circuit in each room, although there are situations when two pipes are laid on the floor of one room at once - this measure is necessary for a large area. The supply from the boiler goes to the manifold and the return goes from it to the heater. There are combs with shut-off valves, and some without them, but in any case it is possible to regulate the temperature - either with a tap or with a temperature sensor.

If necessary, to avoid confusion in the pipes, install several boxes with collectors in different rooms– this is very convenient in terms of temperature control during operation. Such containers, of course, are best recessed into the wall, but it is also possible outdoor installation– from a technological point of view, the place does not matter at all, it is simply a matter of aesthetics. As a casing for such a niche, plumbers often use metal boxes for built-in electrical panels - they are very convenient and reliable to use, and do not require painting. If the house does not have radiator heating and a gas boiler is installed, then it is better to give preference to a condensing unit - it is more expensive than a convection unit, but the cost will more than pay off during operation.

Combined heating

Combined heating scheme - radiators and heated floors

Modern residential buildings in the private sector, which have two and sometimes three floors, are equipped with combined heating, where radiators operate from one boiler together with a heated floor system. This option is very convenient to use, that is, warm floors themselves are more profitable and convenient than radiators, but they cannot be installed in every room. But, be that as it may, this choice is everyone’s personal matter and the reasons in this case do not matter - the most important thing here is the balance between different temperatures in the contours.

If the radiator circuit needs minimum temperature coolant 60-80°C, then in this case in a heated floor system it will be 30-50°C, respectively, and all this must be done using one boiler from one supply. To do this, cut in front of the heated floor contour three-way valve and bypass (see diagram above). The valve is set to the desired temperature, for example, 40°C. Water from the supply flows into the pipe onto the floor until it exceeds this mark. When this happens, the valve switches and resets hot water through the bypass to the return. As soon as the floor temperature drops by 1-2°C, the valve switches again and supplies coolant to the floor circuit.

Conclusion

You can see for yourself that if you figure out in detail how to make heating yourself in a private house, then the question becomes not so difficult - the main thing is to correctly understand the technology. Of course, for this you will have to re-read the article more than once, and then the question of technology will arise, but this, as they say, is a gainful matter.

Go shopping

1. What you need to install a working water heating system?

Here's the full list:

• Boiler. It should provide minimal operating costs and, if possible, require minimal attention from the owner;
• Boiler piping— safety group (air vent, pressure gauge and safety valve), circulation pump and expansion tank, compensating for the increase in volume when heated;

I deliberately excluded from consideration open gravitational systems, in which the functions of the entire harness are performed by an open expansion tank. They are extremely simple in design, but differ from closed systems with forced circulation, long heating, large temperature spread between heating devices and scale formation in the boiler heat exchanger.

• Pipes— bottling, connections to radiators and (optional) heating risers;
• Actually heating devices and their piping— shut-off taps or throttles for separate adjustment.

Boiler

1. How to choose a boiler for water heating?

If you have gas in your house or area, great. There is no cheaper source of heat: obtained by burning natural gas thermal energy costs only 50-70 kopecks per kilowatt-hour.

Most economical variety gas boilers - with electric ignition.

What are the savings?

• The absence of a pilot burner saves up to 25% of the gas that burns when the boiler is idle, when the coolant is heated to a sufficiently high temperature;
• Another 10 - 12% savings are provided by the utilization of the heat of condensation of water vapor, which in traditional boilers leaves the house along with the rest of the combustion products.

In the absence of a gas pipeline near the house, the remaining heat sources are arranged according to efficiency in the following order:

A few nuances:

• The power source for a gas boiler can be not only main gas, but also cylinders or its own gas tank. But in this case, the cost of a kilowatt-hour will increase to 3 and 2.3 rubles, respectively;
• I gave average prices at the time of writing (beginning of 2017), relevant for the central regions of the country at a short distance from the capital. However, regional energy prices and local utility tariffs may make their own adjustments.
  Let's say, in Moscow, a kilowatt-hour of electricity costs 5 rubles, not 4, at a single-rate tariff. In Sevastopol, where I live, pellets are twice as expensive as in the Moscow region - 15,000 rubles per ton versus 7,000;
• For kindling solid fuel boiler coal requires firewood, which will further increase operating costs and time;

• Gas, diesel and electric boilers can operate without maintenance as long as electricity, gas or oil is supplied. A pellet boiler with a hopper and a pellet feeding mechanism is capable of autonomous operation for a week. The solid fuel boiler will have to be melted and cleaned of ash several times a day;

Some types of boilers are designed for longer autonomous operation. For example, pyrolysis (smoldering of wood with limited access of air followed by afterburning of combustion products in a separate chamber) increases autonomy to 10-12 hours. Top combustion boilers with a telescopic air duct are even capable of operating on one burner for up to a day.

• Replacing diesel fuel with waste fuel will reduce operating costs by 5-6 times. However, waste boilers are not very popular, since only car service workers have a permanent supply channel for used motor oil.

Another source of cheap heat is an exhaust boiler.

For a private house with high-quality insulation walls and ceilings located in central regions countries, the boiler power is selected at the rate of 100 watts per square meter of area.

For houses in the northern or southern regions, buildings with poor quality or, conversely, very effective insulation and with high ceiling heights it is better to use the formula Q=V*Dt*k/860.

Variables in this formula (from left to right):

• Heat demand of the room in kilowatts;
• Its volume in cubic meters;
• The temperature difference between the street and the house (it is usually taken equal to the difference between sanitary standard-18 - 22 degrees - and the temperature of the coldest five-day period in your locality);
• Insulation coefficient. It can be selected from the table:

For example, for a house measuring 10x10x6 meters with brick walls 50 cm thick and double glazing, located in Surgut (the temperature of the coldest five days of winter is -43), the heat demand will be (10*10*6)*(22 - -43)*1.9/860=86 kilowatts.

1. Is there an inexpensive alternative solid fuel boilers in the absence of gas?

Heat pumps operate on electricity, but do not use it to directly heat the air in the house, but to pump heat from a low-potential source - soil, water or air.

Since electricity is consumed only by the compressor, for every kilowatt-hour of electricity the owner receives from three to six kilowatt-hours of heat, which reduces heating costs to comparable solid fuel heating and even gas.

Many potential buyers discouraged by the high cost of heat pumps and the expensive installation of a heating system. Suffice it to say that installing a geothermal pump requires drilling wells several tens of meters deep or laying a horizontal collector in a pit with an area three times the size of the house.

However, in warm regions, an air-to-air heating scheme can be implemented: a heat pump takes energy from the air outside the house and heats it without the mediation of a coolant, simply by blowing on the internal heat exchanger.

Doesn't remind you of anything?

That's right, this is exactly how any household air conditioner works in heating mode.

A household split system is a special case of a heat pump.

I use air conditioners as the main source of heat for my home.

Here is a brief report on their operation:

• Four inverters constantly working in winter, together with the installation, cost me about 110 thousand rubles;
• The heated area of ​​the house is 154 m2. It maintains a temperature of 20-22 degrees;
• Air conditioners continue to operate for heating even during the rare frosts in Sevastopol (the minimum temperature with which the heating system was tested was -21 degrees);
• Electricity consumption for heating in the winter months is approximately 1500 kWh. The reader can calculate how much this is in money using local tariffs.

On the picture - external blocks air conditioners heating the bedroom and children's room on the ground floor.

Boiler piping

1. How to choose a boiler piping?

I have already listed its main elements. However, there are subtleties here too.

When choosing a circulation pump, look first at its performance. A minimum pressure of 2 meters (0.2 kgf/cm2) is quite enough to make the heating system of an apartment building work.

The pump capacity is selected using the formula Q=0.86R/Dt.

In it:

• Q is the desired value in cubic meters per hour;
• R - power of the boiler or circuit served by a pump with forced circulation of coolant;
• Dt is the temperature difference between supply and return (usually it is approximately 20 degrees).

So, for our freezing house in Surgut we will need a pump with a capacity of 0.86*86/20=3.7 m3/h.

The safety valve must be set to the maximum permissible for heating system pressure (usually 2.5 kgf/cm2.

The volume of the membrane expansion tank is usually taken with a small margin equal to 1/10 of the volume of coolant in the circuit. To find out the last parameter with maximum accuracy, just fill the circuit with water and pour it into a container of known volume.

In a balanced heating system with aluminum or bimetallic radiators the coolant volume is approximately 15 liters per kilowatt of boiler power.

The standard charging pressure for the expansion tank is 1.5 kgf/cm2. Approximately the same operating pressure should be maintained in the heating system during operation. You can increase it using a tap connecting heating circuit with a cold water system, or simply pumping air into the expansion tank through a spool.

Pipes

1. What pipes should be used for heating in the house??

In my opinion, best material For autonomous system water heating - polypropylene reinforced with aluminum foil.

Why him?

• These pipes are among the cheapest. So, with an outer diameter of 20 mm, a linear meter of pipe costs only 70 rubles. Compare this cost with corrugated stainless steel (from 290 rubles per meter) and copper (from 400 rubles);
• Their connections are maintenance-free and are as durable as a solid pipe. The fitting can be hidden in a groove or screed;
• The strength and heat resistance of polypropylene is quite sufficient for the modest operating parameters of an autonomous system (up to +75C at a pressure of no more than 2.5 atmospheres).

Why do I recommend reinforced pipes and specifically aluminum?

The point is not in resistance to hydrostatic pressure - it is already excessive. The key words are “elongation when heated.” In this parameter, polypropylene without reinforcement is ahead of the rest: a meter-long pipe heated by 50 degrees becomes 6.5 mm longer. Reinforcement with glass fiber reduces elongation to 3.1 mm, and with aluminum to 1.5 mm/meter.

For comparison - steel pipe under the same conditions it will lengthen by 0.5 mm.

When installing long straight bottling sections, the pipes are opened with expansion joints - ring or U-shaped bends, which avoid deformation of the pipeline.

1. What should the diameter of the pipes be??

The internal diameter is selected depending on the thermal load on the corresponding section of the circuit. For bottling, the heat load is equal to the power of the boiler, for connections - the power of the heating device, for the riser - the total heat transfer of all devices connected to it.

The internal diameter values ​​are selected from another table.

The diameter can be reduced by increasing the coolant speed (read: pump performance). However, a trap awaits us here: as the flow speed increases, hydraulic noise will appear - first at the throttling valves, and then at all fitting connections. Therefore, it is better to select the speed from the range 0.4 - 0.6 m/s (blue columns in the table).

In a natural circulation system, the filling diameter increases by at least one step. The instruction is related to the minimum hydraulic pressure that ensures the movement of the coolant: as the diameter increases, the hydraulic resistance of the pipeline decreases.

Heating devices

1. Which batteries are best to buy??

Our choice is aluminum sectional radiators. Cheap and cheerful: maximum heat transfer (with standard size batteries - approximately 200 watts per section) and a minimum price (from 300 rubles).

1. How to choose the number of sections?

The power of a heating device for a separate room is calculated according to the same scheme as the heat demand of the house. To convert the power into the number of sections, it is enough to divide it by the heat flow from one section. It is always indicated by the manufacturer in technical documentation to the device.

There is one subtlety here. As a rule, the manufacturer indicates the heat flow for a very specific temperature difference between the coolant and the air in the room - 70 degrees (90C/20C).

As the coolant cools or the air heats up, the power of the section will drop in proportion to the temperature delta: say, at 60C in the battery and 25C in the room, the section will deliver half the rated power.

Heating appliances

1. What fittings are needed to disconnect and adjust batteries?

If you plan to only turn off the radiators (if there is excess heat or for repairs) - install on both connections to the battery Ball Valves. They are durable, fail-safe and always seal in the closed position.

For throttling (adjusting the flow rate) it is customary to use needle throttles, or valves for radiators. The inside is a typical screw valve with a metal valve.

If you want the passage of the connections to be adjusted automatically, your choice is valves with thermal heads. After rough adjustment they will change their throughput depending on the air temperature in the room.

Wiring

1. How to heat the house?

The simplest and most fault-tolerant scheme is a single-pipe Leningrad, a filling ring around the perimeter of the house with heating devices connected parallel to it. Its main drawback is the large temperature difference between the first and last radiators.

If the house has several heated floors, a two-pipe heating system is usually installed. It can be dead-end (when the coolant, when flowing from supply to return, turns 180 degrees) and passing (the direction of movement of the coolant is maintained).

A dead-end circuit requires mandatory balancing - limiting the passage of the radiators closest to the boiler with chokes. Without balancing, the main volume of the coolant circulates through these radiators, and distant devices practically do not heat. In my memory, this at least once led to a serious accident - defrosting of the circuit in extreme cold.

The associated circuit (Tichelman loop) forms several parallel circuits of the same length. In it, the temperature of the radiators is always approximately the same without balancing.

A dead-end two-pipe scheme is used in cases where there is some obstacle (high opening, bearing wall etc.) does not allow the Tichelman loop to loop.

Installation

1. How to solder polypropylene pipes yourself?

For this you will need:

• Shaver (stripping) to remove reinforcement from the soldering area;

The shaver also removes the outer chamfer on the pipe, simplifying installation of the fitting.

• Scissors - pipe cutter;
• Soldering iron with nozzles of the appropriate diameter and operating temperature of 260 degrees.

The connection is installed as follows:

• The shaver is placed on the pipe and made several turns, removing the aluminum foil;

If left, the foil in contact with water will gradually deteriorate. This will lead to delamination of the pipe and a decrease in the strength of the connection.

• The pipe is inserted into the socket of the nozzle heated to operating temperature. At the same time, a fitting is put on the second side of the nozzle;
• The melted parts are combined in a translational (without rotation) motion and held motionless for several seconds. After the melted plastic has set, you can proceed to installing the next connection.

1. Where to install the security group?

At the outlet of the boiler. This is where the pressure begins to increase when the filling capacity is insufficient or the circulation rate is low.

1. Where is the expansion tank installed??

At any point in the circuit, but no closer than two filling diameters from the pump when installed in front of it and no closer than ten filling diameters when installed after the pump. Otherwise, the turbulence that occurs during rotation of the impeller will sharply reduce the life of the tank membrane.

1. Can a gravity heating system be converted to forced circulation?

Quite: the pump can be installed in both a closed and an open circuit.

Typically, installation of heating with the ability to work with both natural and forced circulation is performed as follows:

• The diameter and configuration of the filling (slope, accelerating manifold, height difference between the boiler and heating devices) are made typical for a gravity system;
• In front of the boiler, two outlets are welded parallel to the filling, between which a pump is connected;
• A ball check valve is installed between the taps.

When the pump is running, the valve is activated and closes the bypass. The coolant circulates at high speed forcibly. As soon as the pump turns off due to a power outage, the system automatically switches to natural circulation mode: the valve opens and water moves freely through the filling.

Instead of check valve sometimes a regular valve is installed or ball valve. In this case, the system must be switched to natural circulation mode with your own hands.

Conclusion

Of course, in a small volume of material it is difficult to answer all the issues related to autonomous heating questions. Additional information you will find in the video in this article. Feel free to leave your comments on the portal. Good luck, comrades!

In our country, it’s unlikely to survive without heating - the winters are too harsh. If apartment owners do not have to choose - they heat themselves with whatever they have, then the heating system of a private house is a personal matter for its owner. Choose the option that suits you best.

Types of heating systems

In a private house, you can implement almost any heating system, as well as their combinations. To choose the right type of heating, you need to know all their features, advantages and disadvantages.

Stove heating

Just a century ago, this is how most houses, large and small, were heated. This is just a stove without any additional elements. One or more - depended on the size of the house and the capabilities of the owners. The huts usually had a large Russian stove, while the houses of the intelligentsia and nobility had more sophisticated Dutch or Swedish stoves.

Stove heating is still used today, but for the most part already at the dachas, as a temporary solution to raise the temperature in the room or as a alternative source heat. You can find stove heating in village houses, but already rare.

Stove heating is losing popularity because it is cyclical: if it floods, it’s hot, if it burns out, it’s cold. It is very uncomfortable. The second serious disadvantage is the inability to regulate the temperature. The intensity of combustion can be changed within certain limits using views, but not radically: if wood burns, it releases a certain amount of heat. Its release can be “stretched” a little by limiting the air flow, but only a little.

The third drawback is the uneven distribution of heat. Those rooms into which the sides of the stove open are heated, and even then, the floor remains cold. In addition, even in heated rooms near the stove it is warm, at the far end of the room it can even be cold. The fourth drawback is the need for constant maintenance - you can’t leave it for long. You have to constantly (or almost) be near the stove: keep it burning, clean it and re-light it. All these reasons have led to the fact that a stove in a private home usually appears as one of the possible sources of heat and is rarely the main one.

Vodyanoye

The most common heating system in our country is water, and if they say that they want to heat a private house with their own hands, 98% of them mean just such a system. And this despite the fact that it is expensive to install. This is perhaps the most expensive system to install. But it has a decent number of advantages, which explains its popularity.

It consists of a hot water boiler, a pipeline and heating devices - heating radiators - through which the coolant circulates. Most often this is water, but it can also be a special non-freezing liquid. The whole difficulty is in creating this very pipeline system - it is necessary to ensure the transfer of heat in the required quantity.

Water heating is the most expensive in the device

The first positive point is that the system can operate in both cyclic and continuous mode. It depends on the choice of boiler. If the heat source for such a system is a conventional solid fuel boiler (wood or coal), then cyclicity is present. To practically reduce it to nothing, a heat accumulator is added to the system - a large reservoir with a coolant in which heat accumulates during periods of intense heating. And at night, when the boiler burns out, the accumulated heat maintains the house comfortable temperature.

If there is any other boiler in the system - gas, liquid fuel, pellet - there is no cyclicity. Once the system has reached operating temperature, it is maintained with a fairly small difference (with proper power calculation and design).

The second positive point: most modern heating boilers are equipped with automation, which controls their operation and monitors safety. Such systems can operate for quite a long time without human intervention (except for solid fuel ones). The third advantage is that rare maintenance is required.

Therefore, in most cases, heating in a private house is done with water. Sometimes owners don’t even think about the possibility of installing some other system.

Air

Center air system heating is also a source of heat, and usually it is a boiler, but it does not heat water, as in a water system, but air. The heat source can be a powerful convector running on gas, electricity or liquid fuel.

In order for the heated air to reach other rooms, a system of air ducts is led from the heat source. The movement of air through them can be natural (gravitational systems) and forced (with fans).

Compared to water heating, much less money is required. In small houses - one or two rooms (usually dachas) - one heat generator without air ducts is generally sufficient. In this case warm air through open doors enters another room, warming it too.

The disadvantages here are obvious: while the heat generator is working, it’s warm, but when it stops, it immediately becomes cold. No thermal inertia, as in a water system (until the water cools down, the house is warm). The second point is drying air. It dries out even with other types of heating, but air heating a private house is perhaps the leader in this regard.

Electrical

Heating a private home with electricity is one of the simplest things to do. Just buy convectors and hang them in key places. It can be under the windows, it can be under the ceiling. Both systems work. The disadvantage of these systems is the significant costs of maintaining a stable temperature.

The system consists of a number of convectors that are able to compensate for heat loss. In this case, there are no difficulties at all, except for electrical wiring of a suitable cross-section and the allocation of power required for heating. The convector has a heating element through which air flows. Passing along the heated element, the air heats up, spreading heat throughout the room.

The movement of air in a convector is organized in two ways: with or without a fan, due to natural processes. More efficient heating with forced air movement. But such power is not always needed (and fans create noise), so many models have two operating modes - with and without a fan.

This type of heating is quite comfortable - modern convectors can support set temperature with an accuracy of two degrees. Their work is controlled by automation, which turns them on and off as needed. If there is a power supply, they do not require any maintenance.

Disadvantage - active convection (air movement) carries a large amount of dust. The second disadvantage is drying out the air, but this is a disadvantage of all heating systems. If as heating element a regular spiral is used, it burns out the oxygen in the air (heats up to a red glow). But such elements are now used only in the cheapest small floor models. More serious equipment heats the air with ceramic heaters, which do not burn oxygen (almost).

There is also such a system as heated floors, but this is a separate topic and is described, and electric ones are described.

Which system to choose

The actual type of heating in a private home depends on the climate and mode of use of the premises. In most countries with mild winter use electric or air heating. In our country, water heating is used in most of the territories. It makes sense to build such a complex system in houses with permanent residence. THEN such material investments are justified.

If you are selecting a heating system for a dacha, where in winter you will only appear on short visits and do not plan to maintain above-zero temperatures, then the best option- air heating. With or without air ducts - it depends on the size of the dacha. Why not electric? Because in winter the electricity supply in rural areas is extremely unstable. So a stove like Buleryan is better.

Types of water heating systems

Since water heating of a private house is installed in most cases, let’s look at what types it comes in. There are quite significant differences.

According to the method of coolant circulation

There are two types of water heating: with natural and forced circulation. Natural circulation systems use the well-known physical phenomenon: warmer liquids rise to the top, colder liquids sink down. Since the system is closed, a cycle is formed.

The advantages of such a system are that it is non-volatile, that is, it does not require electricity to operate. This is important in many rural areas where power outages are the norm rather than the exception in winter.

More cons:

• Pipes must be used larger diameter— the speed of movement of the coolant is low, therefore for transfer sufficient quantity heat requires a larger volume of coolant. they must be laid with a constant rather large slope (about 3%), which does not add aesthetics to the room.
• During natural circulation, the pipes are located at a height of about a meter, which does not add color to the room. The second option is an acceleration loop, which is also not very attractive. The situation is better with two-story houses. In them, the second floor is a kind of acceleration loop.
• The boiler is also required to be non-volatile, and this is a solid fuel boiler using wood or coal. All others require power supply.
• The middle of the radiators should be higher than the middle of the boiler (to ensure circulation). If there is no ground floor, you have to either lift up the radiators or make a recess for the boiler. Not the most fun task either.
• Inability to regulate the speed of movement of the coolant and the thermal conditions in the room.

Forced circulation systems have a built-in circulation pump. It does not create excess pressure, it simply drives water through the pipes at a given speed. Such a pump can be built into the boiler (gas heating units) or installed separately on the return pipeline before entering the boiler.

The circulation pump is the main difference between the heating system of a private house with forced circulation

The advantages of this solution:

• The pipes are laid below - on the floor or under the floor.
• The speed of the coolant can be adjusted (multi-speed pump), thereby regulating the temperature in the room.
• The diameter of the pipes is small. For an average sized private home this is usually 20mm or so.
• Any boiler can be installed, with any automation. Automation provides more high level comfort and the ability to accurately maintain the desired temperature.

The disadvantage is the need for electricity. And the point is not that a lot of it is required, on the contrary, the system consumes 100-250 W/hour like a regular light bulb. The fact is that without electricity it is inoperable. For rare cases of shutdown, a power stabilizer with a battery is suitable, but if the power does turn off frequently, you need backup source— generator.

By type of wiring

There are two types of systems:

• single-pipe;
• two-pipe.

Single pipe systems

In single-pipe systems, a pipe comes out of the boiler, sequentially runs around all the heating radiators, and from the exit of the latter enters the boiler inlet. The main advantage is minimal amount pipes There are more disadvantages of such a heating device for a private house:

A better improved system in this regard is Leningradka. In it, each radiator has a bypass - a piece of pipe connected in parallel to the heating device. In this option, ball valves can be installed at the inlet and outlet of the radiators, with the help of which you can turn off the radiators. In this case, the coolant will move through the bypass.

Two-pipe wiring

This system has two pipes to which heating radiators are connected in parallel. Hot coolant is supplied through one pipe, and cooled coolant is discharged through the other.

Disadvantages - high pipe consumption, but water of the same temperature is supplied to the input of each radiator; it is possible to install a regulator on each heating device, thanks to which the system can be balanced (set the required heat transfer for each radiator).

There are several types of two-pipe heating systems:

According to the method of coolant supply

There are systems with top and bottom coolant supply. All the schemes above are with lower distribution. Systems with top feed are rare. They are mainly sold in two (or more) storey buildings for a more economical system construction.

By type of system: open and closed

Since the temperature of the coolant in the system changes, its volume also changes. To have somewhere to dispose of the excess, expansion tanks are installed in the system. These tanks are open (regular tank) and closed (membrane). Accordingly, systems are called open and closed.

They are usually placed in an open expansion tank in the attic of a private house. It is, of course, cheap, but in such a system the coolant gradually evaporates. Therefore, you need to monitor the amount of liquid or make an automatic device that will respond to a decrease in the level. Usually this is a float mechanism (like in a toilet) that opens/closes the water supply. The system is simple and quite reliable, but only water can circulate in it. Antifreeze cannot be poured in, since a change in their concentration is not allowed (and this is what happens during evaporation). In addition, most antifreezes are toxic and their vapors are also not therapeutic.

Where such tanks can be used is in systems with natural circulation - a membrane tank simply will not work at such a low pressure.

Expansion tank closed type divided into two halves by an elastic membrane. If there is a lack of coolant, it displaces it from the tank; if there is excess (pressure increases), the coolant stretches the membrane, occupying a larger volume.

With membrane tank

These systems work well with forced circulation, maintaining stable pressure.

What do we know about heating a private home? , or water - before choosing, you should calculate the costs of purchasing materials, installation and subsequent maintenance. If you have a house, you need to manually maintain a comfortable temperature every day. Electricity is quite expensive to operate. To install water heating, it is necessary to purchase all the wiring around the house, purchase and install it. But this is where the main costs end. We will tell you how to make economical water heating of a private house with your own hands. There are numerous installation schemes, so in this review we will try to consider the most popular of them.

Any heating system has advantages and some features that you need to familiarize yourself with in advance so that emergency situations do not arise in the future.

The positive points include:

• all wiring around the house is brought into one place and connected to the boiler. This is much more convenient than installing it in every room;
• moderate coolant temperature. With a maximum of 100°C, the temperature does not exceed +60°C, in a water floor system - no higher than +40°C. This prevents dust from burning and causing burns upon contact, and the heating of the premises is soft and comfortable.

Features of water heating in a private house include:

• preliminary installation of all pipework, which increases the cost of the resource;
• risk of coolant freezing in case of irregular or seasonal use. It is necessary to either drain the water during the absence of residents, or maintain heating during the cold season, or fill it up;
• risk of leaks.

Coolant and its properties

There is no ideal coolant. Each option has an acceptable temperature range and technical specifications, if violated, the heating system can be damaged. Replacing equipment will be very expensive.

The main characteristics of the coolant that need to be taken into account when choosing:

• temperature regime;
• viscosity;
• anti-corrosion properties;
• toxicity when heated.

The best coolant is purified water and antifreeze.

The main advantages of antifreeze over water are presented in the table. Its use is especially recommended in houses with seasonal or periodic residence.

Coolant	freezing t, °C	Viscosity,mm²/s at 40°С	Fire hazard, critical temperature, °C
Purified water	0	0,9	Yes
Industrial oils	-15 (-18)	10÷40	140÷190
Salt compositions	-55	1	No
Alcohol compositions	-40	0,7	Yes
Antifreeze	-40	3,1	No

There is no need to drain it from the system during departure. When you return, simply turn on the boiler. If the temperature drops below the limit, the composition will turn into a viscous liquid - a gel, while its physical characteristics will not change. After the temperature rises to the required level, it will again acquire a liquid form while maintaining its original volume.

You should know this! The service life of antifreeze is at least 5 years. With one fill, the system can operate for up to ten heating seasons.

Special product for the system - antifreeze

Despite all the advantages of antifreeze, many people choose water. It is safe, there are no chemical impurities in it, especially if you dig your own. The only one negative point– mineral salts in the composition that cause corrosion. To prevent it, you can use boiled or melt water. Or alternatively, use the .

Standards and requirements for water autonomous heating

The basic requirements were developed in building codes and rules.

• the temperature of the liquid in the pipes should not be higher than +90°C;
• the optimal temperature regime should be within +60÷80°C;
• at open installation water heating, it is necessary to fasten the pipes using clips, clamps or install metal channels;
• Concealed installation can be carried out in grooves, channels, baseboards. Can be covered with screens;
• if necessary, it is necessary to thermally insulate pipes that will pass through an unheated room.

Features of a water heating system

The operating principle of a water heating system is based on physical laws. The heated coolant rises, the cooled coolant descends. In other words, the best circulation of liquid in the heating system will be with a large temperature difference between the outlet and return of the coolant. The optimal difference is 25°.

To know how to properly install heating in a private home, you need to familiarize yourself with the following rules.

• The boiler must be installed 2 meters below the level of the pipe system and batteries, at the lowest point of the heating circuit;
• If necessary, the riser through which the liquid rises into the premises should be thermally insulated;
• with natural coolant circulation, the length of the pipes should be less than 30 meters;
• for a one-story building with natural coolant movement, it is necessary to perform a return with a slope;
• for multi-storey buildings it is necessary to install additional pumping equipment.

Main elements of the system

The heating system consists of a boiler, radiators and piping. During installation, it is necessary to install safety groups, control and shut-off elements, air outlet units and drainage devices. To effectively heat the upper floors of the house you need to install.

Boiler

The functionality and efficiency of heating a home depends on it. The principle of its operation is based on heating the coolant as it passes through the heating circuit. Hot flows are directed through the pipework, heating all rooms in the passage area.

Manufacturers offer equipment that works on different types fuel.

Boiler classification:

Gas	Gas is the most affordable fuel, especially if it is possible to connect to a gas pipeline. Installation is permitted only by gas services.
Electrical	Can be used as a main device or backup. Experts advise installing boilers that operate on different types of fuel. The advantages include affordable price boiler, the disadvantages are the high cost of electricity. The installation will pay off only in small 2-3 room houses that are well insulated.
Solid fuel	During operation, it is necessary to periodically add fuel. For coal, the loading time is 8 hours, for firewood – 5 hours. with a combustion cycle of up to 5 days are much more expensive.
Diesel fuel	This is a great alternative gas equipment. You can choose a model with additional gas fuel. Diesel equipment has a significant disadvantage - noisy operation. In addition, the fuel container must be protected from fire.

Related article:

What are their advantages and disadvantages, what is the principle of operation, what you need to pay attention to when choosing, review the best manufacturers and models, making them yourself - read our material.

Pipes

• Lifetime metal products not very big. There is a possibility of corrosion. Installation is carried out on threaded connections;
• polymer pipes more reliable, they are affordable. You can install the heating yourself; it won’t cause any difficulties. Service life – up to 50 years;
• metal-plastic pipes consist of aluminum and plastic. The collection of elements is carried out by pressing or threaded connections. One disadvantage of the pipeline is that under the influence of elevated temperatures or during temperature surges there is a possibility of crack formation;
• copper- the most expensive pipeline. Copper wiring has increased reliability and durability. The sections are connected using soldering.

Radiators

Negative features of the system include the need to install fittings on pipes. It acts to protect against emergency situations associated with increased coolant pressure. In addition, it is necessary to install circulation pump equipment on both sides safety valves.

Do-it-yourself water heating of a private house, installation diagrams and features

Before installing the heating, you should perform the calculations yourself and understand all the intricacies of the device. And after that, purchase materials for the chosen system and begin installation.

Do-it-yourself organization of a single-pipe heating system for a private house

For one-story house piping is carried out from the boiler throughout the entire area of ​​the house, the batteries are connected in series. Accordingly, remote rooms will be heated less.

You should know this! It is impossible to provide for the supply of coolant to a specific device. If you need to do renovation work radiator, the heat supply to the entire house stops.

system single-pipe heating you can do it yourself, the diagram and installation procedure will not cause any difficulties.

DIY diagram of a two-pipe heating system in a private house

This system allows you to install two pipes for supplying cold and hot coolant with the ability to adjust the temperature on each device. Its own pipe enters and exits the battery. The second name of the circuit is parallel.

Installation of such a system requires a larger investment in the purchase of fittings and pipelines. However, its efficiency is higher. All batteries are heated at the same temperature.

It is advisable to install a two-pipe scheme in 2 or more storey buildings. Its main advantage is the ability to repair a single device without damaging all the others. It is possible to adjust the temperature of each battery, which significantly reduces heating costs. You can install heating country house with your own hands, the scheme will not cause any particular difficulties.

Scheme of water heating of a two-story house

For heating two-story house It is important to correctly calculate the power of the system, taking into account the areas of all rooms and select the performance of the boiler and pump. Their parameters should be sufficient to heat the entire house. Wherein important characteristics are pressure loss and fluid flow.

Collector heating circuit for a one-story house with forced circulation

This is the most complex of all systems. The heated coolant is directed to collectors, which then distribute it to the batteries. It is possible to regulate the temperature not only on each circuit, but also on each radiator. To do this, you need to install the required number of thermostatic elements and shut-off valves. The main disadvantage of the system is the cost. In addition to the increased pipe footage, you also need to purchase and install collectors.

The principle of the device is as follows. You need to install a centrifugal valve into the return pipe near the boiler. pumping device, which will continuously supply coolant using an impeller. Such a device helps to establish a pressure with which all batteries will be heated evenly.

Features of self-installation of water heating

Do-it-yourself heating installation in a private house consists of the following steps:

• installation of boiler equipment;
• installation of batteries. The distance from the window sill should be 10 cm, from the floor - 6 cm. It is advisable to install air valve, shut-off valve and regulator;

• the pipeline layout should start from the boiler;
• installation of auxiliary equipment;
• connection of elements in accordance with the material and type of pipes.

Conclusion

The choice of system must be approached thoughtfully not only from a financial point of view, but also from subsequent costs that arise during operation. The basic rule of any heating is reliable and uninterrupted operation. For this, in addition to calculations, you need to perform high-quality installation. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to turn to professionals.

We hope that the material will help you in planning your heating. In the article we examined all the features of installing a water heating system. Ask questions in the comments, our team will be happy to take part in discussions.

You can see the principle of a water heating system in the video:

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Organizing a heating system in a private home is not an easy task. This work cannot be done without professional specialists in this field.

However, they can be involved at different stages of the work. Hired workers can complete the entire heating work or do only a specific stage of the work. You can also seek advice from specialists.

Regardless of whether you do the heating work yourself or hire workers, you definitely need to know all the stages and nuances of the process. Let's look at how to organize home heating with your own hands.

Heating system elements

In country houses it is better to use water heating. This method is considered traditional. Heat is supplied to the house using a coolant, which can be heated by various energy carriers.

Such a system includes the following components:

• heating system devices;
• heat source;
• pipeline network.

Full work is impossible without such equipment as:

• expansion tank;
• buffer capacity;
• circulation pump;
• distribution manifold;
• automation devices;
• hydraulic separator;
• heating boiler.

It is important that for a water heating system an essential piece of equipment is an expansion tank. Everything else is installed if required.

Heating boiler

Today it is not difficult to select and buy a heating boiler. There is a wide range on the market various models. They differ from each other only in the type of fuel used, as well as the energy carrier.

For private houses can be used following types devices:

• gas;
• liquid fuel;
• solid fuel;
• electric.

Heating scheme in a private house

At this stage, it is better to seek help from professionals. They will amount correct scheme. Since making a heating circuit is not easy.

There are two types of heating:

• Single-pipe, in which all radiators are connected to one collector.
• Double-pipe, in which two pipes are involved. One goes to supply, and the second to return heat.

Two-pipe heating, among experts, is considered the most reliable system. At the same time, the costs are much lower than for the single-pipe type.

Heating installation

Before starting work, you need to decide on the location where the boiler will be located. If its power is not higher than 60 kW, then it can be placed in the kitchen space.

In other cases, you need to prepare separate room which should be well ventilated. It is also necessary to make a chimney through which combustion products will escape.

Let's look at the photo of the heating of the house and see how the boiler connection system is arranged.

Purchase and installation of pipes

Available on the market a large assortment heating pipes. Each owner chooses the type of pipes as desired. At the same time, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the material from which they are made.

Types of pipes

• Copper, great option. They are resistant to any changes in pressure and temperature.
• Steel ones are chosen quite rarely. Since they are susceptible to metal corrosion, which shortens their service life.
• Polypropylene pipes must be reinforced with foil. This way they will last much longer than conventional pipes. Polypropylene heating a private home is the cheapest way.
• Stainless steel is a very different option. However, it is a reliable, durable material.
• Metal-plastic ones are suitable for those who have decided to install a heating system for the first time.
• Polyethylene pipes are inexpensive, and their installation is very simple.

Selection of radiators

Manufacturers offer a wide selection of different heating devices. First of all, you need to pay attention to the type of material, and then to their appearance.

Note!

Battery types:

• Cast iron batteries have high heat output. But their cost is very high. And if you take Soviet-style models, their appearance will not decorate your home.
• Bimetallic ones have a table frame inside. This type of device is used in apartment buildings.
• Steel batteries are among the cheapest, with a service life of 20 years.
• Aluminum ones are good because you can automatically regulate the heat supply.

It is important, when making a choice in favor of a certain type of device, take into account its features.

Of course, the process of organizing a heating system is very labor-intensive. However, if you understand all the intricacies, you can make heating yourself.

But, if this is still a difficult job for you, then it is better to hire specialists. And basic knowledge will help you control the entire installation process.

Photo of home heating with your own hands

Note!