Make your own greenhouse from window frames. DIY greenhouses from old window frames

Only financial resources and thinking allow a summer resident to create certain structures on his site. After all, as a rule, we try to create everything with our own hands. Today we can talk about creating structures such as greenhouses, and they will be made from old window frames. This is the most a budget option of all the possible ones that can exist. And you don’t have to look for materials, since old windows can be found everywhere.

Where can I get window frames? It’s very simple: windows in a neighboring house or even an apartment, in a kindergarten, or in a school can be changed. Don't waste your chance: you need to take the frames to your garage. At the same time, you will even be grateful for the fact that construction garbage(which are the frames) will be removed from the site.

But just the availability of building materials will not solve the problem. You need to know how to properly make a greenhouse from frames for.

The basis of the greenhouse: choosing a suitable foundation

It is worth noting that a foundation must be laid for the greenhouse. Without it, the structure will collapse. The weight of the frames will be so great that over time the greenhouse will simply sag.

The highest quality and most reliable material is brick. However, the material is quite expensive. But with long-term use it pays off perfectly. Excessive moisture may cause the stone to deteriorate.

Natural stone is also expensive, but will be able to withstand the strongest greenhouse structures. Natural stone can also withstand the most humid environments, which makes it possible to give advantages in use to this particular material.

Wooden foundation

Wood is also very durable material, however, after five years you will have to change wooden foundation, which will begin to crumble under the influence of moisture and temperature changes.

Experts say that the best option is concrete. Such a foundation can last as long as possible. Of course, you can use absolutely any construction option. It all depends on what financial resources you have.

Frame of the structure

It is worth noting that the greenhouse itself, made from window frames, is already quite durable. You just need to strengthen it and mount it correctly. In order for the frame to be strong, it must be firmly strengthened with the base. Window frames are simply connected to each other on the base using corners, screws, studs and other fastening materials. Each person determines for himself what materials to use for fastening. It all depends on the budget.

So, let's look at the most common types of frame fastenings

Corners and screws are rightfully the most reliable. During the installation of the greenhouse, you will only need to properly install the greenhouse and secure it to the foundation. The parts of the greenhouse are secured with corners and then connected to each other with self-tapping screws. This way it is possible to achieve the maximum degree of stability.

You can also install a greenhouse using wooden nails, as well as bars. This option is even simpler than the previous method of connecting structures. Inside, the frames are connected using small cross-section beams.

There is another way that requires a minimum of time and effort. To do this you will need wire and clamps. Using the wire, you can wind it around the part of the connection and tighten it with pliers. For tension, they are used plastic clamps, which can be bought at a hardware store.

Installation of a greenhouse from old windows

It must be said that any greenhouse structure can be created from the frames. The only thing is that you need to assemble everything correctly so that the structure lasts a long time. In order for the work to be completed efficiently, all work must be carried out step by step.

The frame and base are the most important parts of the greenhouse during installation. The fasteners must be strong and reliable so that the greenhouse lasts a long time. There may be connections that require welding.

How to cover a greenhouse from frames

Since the frames themselves are heavy, it is not recommended to use glass. In this case, the weight will increase even more. Glass is used when a small greenhouse is being assembled. The best option is to cover the greenhouse plastic film. For this, a simple sheathing is used on the top of the structure. Once the film is placed over the top of the greenhouse, you can begin to stretch the film.

Once all work is completed, you need to check its quality. If no flaws are found, then you can begin planting various crops. Now you can plant on your site at any time of the year. various cultures, which can only be grown on the site.

Don’t worry about where to dispose of old wooden or plastic windows after renovation. Using this instruction and useful tips from summer residents, build a greenhouse or a full-fledged greenhouse from window frames with your own hands - and you will pamper yourself with early vegetables, and you will be known as a master among your neighbors. Study in detail how to make a structure reliable and airtight so that it solves the assigned tasks, withstands bad weather and lasts on the site for several seasons.

Neat greenhouse made from window frames

Pros and cons of a greenhouse made from old window frames

Does the prospect of getting a practically free greenhouse warm your soul? Don’t rush to rub your hands in anticipation of future profits from greenhouse farming - a cheap greenhouse has both advantages and disadvantages. For example, you can’t make such a greenhouse yourself in no time, and both in person and in the photo the buildings are significantly inferior in terms of appearance polycarbonate. You will understand whether this solution is right for you when you study other nuances.

Mini-greenhouse from an old window

Features of frame greenhouses

A greenhouse made from window frames, in addition to cost, has other advantages:

windows, if they have retained their integrity, retain heat well;
if you have glass, you don’t need to spend money on covering material;
the structure turns out to be quite light, and the soil quickly warms up;
the window frames already have vents, which means the ventilation issue has been resolved;
a leaky element can always be replaced with a similar one.

Greenhouse from a second-hand window

On the other hand, a self-made greenhouse made from window frames even in the photo looks, to put it mildly, unpresentable. If you approach the matter responsibly, its installation will take at least a week. Therefore, those who appreciate own time worth its weight in gold or worried about landscape design of their own plot, they do not undertake the construction of a frame greenhouse.

Disadvantages should also include a large number of joints and connections between frames that are often of different sizes. They all need to be sealed with sealant so that precious heat does not leak out into the cracks. Such a greenhouse will have to be greased, tinted, and repaired throughout its entire service life. Besides:

a greenhouse assembled from “pieces” is difficult to dismantle and move to another place;
glass breaks easily and when working close to the walls of the greenhouse, you need to be careful;
the greenhouse turns out to be heavy - you can’t do without a foundation.

Window frames shade the greenhouse by 30%

We must not forget that under glass, which blocks ultraviolet B and C, which is beneficial for plants, crops grow more slowly than under a light-transmitting film. Is it worth abandoning the idea completely because of these features? Of course not, they just need to be taken into account in the design homemade greenhouse and take a responsible approach to choosing a place for it.

Selection of location and design

Before you make a greenhouse from window frames, decide where it will be located. The question is far from idle: not only its size and shape, but also the internal microclimate and productivity directly depend on the location of the structure. Of course, these recommendations are not feasible for every site, but if possible, try to follow them at least partially:

so that the greenhouse is well lit and protected from northern winds, install it in front of tall structures or plantings;
erect the structure on the southeast, southwest or south side of the site;
it’s good if there is a hill in this place, otherwise you will have to build a drainage layer;
analyze the condition of the soil in the selected plot - if the soil is clayey, cover it with gravel and fill it with black soil;
place the greenhouse for tomatoes as far as possible from the potato plantation - this is important for preventing the spread of late blight;
Please note that the most successful direction of the roof ridge is considered to be south-northern - this is how the cultivated crops receive maximum amount sun rays from the east and south.

Location of the greenhouse on the site

If you want to extend the agricultural season, also consider the communications system - you will need to provide heating, lighting and watering. To make it easier to do all this with your own hands, it is important that the greenhouse made of window frames is located as close as possible to the energy source.

As for the shape of the greenhouse, choose it based on your goals:

For a greenhouse nursery, a box-shaped structure tilted to one side is suitable. It is also convenient to organize temporary storage of root crops in the fall.
It is convenient to grow greens and grown seedlings in a gable mini-greenhouse.
To get a harvest of cucumbers or tomatoes, you need a greenhouse-house at least 1.8 m high with doors and vents.

The simplest greenhouse nursery

DIY construction stages

To figure out how to build a small but functional greenhouse from old window frames, study step-by-step master class, provided by an experienced vegetable grower, and a video describing the process. First, determine the dimensions based on the number of frames, and then draw a sketch of the greenhouse on a scale and decide on the type of foundation.

Which is better - a foundation or a foundation?

In order to simplify and reduce the cost of construction as much as possible, some summer residents are planning to do without a foundation and simply install the greenhouse on the ground. In professional construction, there is the concept of a foundation - a mass of soil capable of absorbing the load from a structure without deformation. But for this purpose it is strengthened different ways:

pneumatic rammer;
silicization (introducing a solution into the soil layer liquid glass);
cementation (injection of liquid cement mortar).

It is unrealistic and unprofitable to create a foundation strong enough for a heavy greenhouse on your own and without equipment. Therefore, based on your own considerations and material capabilities, you need to choose the material for the foundation. The following options are usually considered:

wooden beam;
bricks or blocks;
reinforced concrete.

Shell block construction

The timber is quickly installed, but it also rots quickly. It can and should be impregnated with resin or wrapped in roofing felt, but these measures only briefly slow down the process. Base made of silicate or hollow brick it won’t last long, and well-burnt clinker is expensive. It will not be much cheaper to buy foundation blocks, since the technology requires high-quality insulation and insulation, and this will also cost a pretty penny.

The timber lasts for 3–4 years

Some craftsmen manage to adapt railway sleepers for greenhouses, car tires, iron pipes. But shallow-depth is considered the most predictable and relatively cheap strip support made of concrete – service life at the right approach exceeds tens of years. To understand how justified such a structure is for a homemade greenhouse made from old frames, study the installation technology.

Tire base

How to properly pour a concrete foundation

Determine the width of the foundation strip according to the type of soil: 20 cm (for loams) or 25 cm (for sandy soils). At the previously selected location, remove the platform and mark:

Select the location of the first corner and, using a plumb line, vertically install a peg or piece of reinforcement in its place.
Pull the string from it at right angles and at the required distance determine the second and third angles - also mark them with pegs.
From the second and third corners towards the fourth, pull the string and, having adjusted the corner, set the last mark.
Check the resulting rectangle along the diagonals: they should be equal.
In a similar way, mark inner circuit foundation.

Finished trench

Calculate the required height of the foundation from the ground as the difference between the height of the window frames and the height of the greenhouse being built along the floor beams. Mark the calculated size on the pegs and pull the string horizontally.

Now comes the turn earthworks. According to the markings, dig a trench 30 cm deep. The walls should be vertical; if the soil falls, install temporary supports. Check the bottom with a level and, at the slightest slope, level it to the horizontal. Pour sand into the finished trench in layers, pouring and compacting each layer. The thickness of the pillow is 15 cm.

From edged boards and timber, assemble the formwork.
Install supports on the outside to prevent it from deforming.
Attach reinforcing rods with a diameter of 8–12 mm to the walls of the formwork and tie them together with wire.
Mix cement grade 200 with sifted river sand in a ratio of 1:2 or 1:2.5 and dilute with water until it becomes liquid sour cream.
Fill the resulting solution with crushed stone - its quantity is the same as sand.
Mix the concrete and pour it into the formwork, compacting it in the process using improvised means, a hammer drill or a construction mixer.
Align upper layer with a rule or trowel and sprinkle it with concrete sifted through a sieve.

Pouring concrete

The resulting foundation can subsequently be used for more than one greenhouse.

Ready base

Installation of windows and frames

Dismantled windows should be prepared before reuse. Check their condition - dried wood cannot be restored and is not suitable for a greenhouse. Carefully remove old hinges, nails, latches from the frames - anything that is outdated or may interfere with installation. To avoid damaging the glass, temporarily remove:

Remove the glazing beads from the window frame, pull out all the glass, marking them according to each opening.
Wash glass panels with warm soapy water.
Replace cracked glass and add new glass to replace missing glass.
Blowtorch or use a paint remover to remove the layer of old coating.
If necessary, fill the uneven areas.
Apply several layers of antiseptic and let the surface dry.
Paint the frames exterior paint light color.

Refurbished window frame

The most labor-intensive operation in building a greenhouse from old window frames with your own hands is building the frame. It is optimal if, after replacing the windows with metal-plastic double-glazed windows, the frames remaining are the same size. In this case, on concrete foundation lay a sheet of roofing material, and on it - a beam of the lower trim. Then, one by one, use dowels to screw the frames to the foundation and tie them with posts and lintels for rigidity.

Plank frame diagram

When installing frames of different sizes with frame structure you'll have to tinker a little more:

Place vertical pillars of the same height at the corners of the foundation, equal height the largest frame and the width of the bottom trim beam.
Rigidly install the top trim around the entire perimeter.
Attach the first frame to it with three dowels, and leave its lower edge free.
Install the second frame in the same way, but on the other side.
In the gap between the frames and the foundation, bring bottom beam and attach it to the foundation and pillars.
Cover the remaining uncovered space with a board according to its size - due to their location at the bottom, such inserts will not shade the greenhouse.

The holes are covered with plastic film

Alternatively, the varying height of the frames can be compensated for by polycarbonate inserts, installing them in any location.

Wooden and plastic frames - pros and cons

The nuances of building a greenhouse from wooden windows, positive and not so good, are discussed above. But increasingly, it happens that pioneer homeowners who were once the first to replace wooden frames to metal-plastic double-glazed windows, we already have to change them too. This means that such material may also fall into your hands. Upon closer examination, metal-plastic in its new “role” has its advantages and disadvantages.

At first glance, the metal-plastic greenhouse is impeccable:

the design looks modern;
holds heat perfectly;
equipped with ready-made windows;
resistant to wind and snow;
durable and environmentally friendly.

Factory greenhouse made of metal-plastic

After looking at the new windows of the house, someone will even want to invest a sum of money in a capital greenhouse made of metal-plastic frames. However, not everything is so rosy - the windows are still intended for other purposes and have not been tested in greenhouse conditions. Especially many questions arise regarding recovery:

depressurized frames (one of common reasons replacements) are also unsuitable for greenhouses;
During installation, you cannot pull the glass out of the frames - there is a high risk of damage;
if the top frame and greenhouse roof are installed incorrectly, an uneven load is applied to the window frame, and the glass unit bursts;
It is impossible to replace broken glass “on the knee” - you need specialists and equipment.

Drawing of a homemade greenhouse

The greenhouse itself turns out to be non-demountable and heavy - moving it to a new place with your own hands will be extremely problematic. If you have free plastic windows, then why not build a greenhouse out of them. But don't be tempted to buy specifically for this purpose: for the money you can find better specialized solutions.

If you decide to use double-glazed windows, remember: they are installed on the bottom frame simultaneously with the installation of the frame racks made of wooden beam or steel profile(the latter option is more reliable). In progress plastic frames You can drill with self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws, the main thing is to know where to do it so as not to damage the valuable material.

Video: where you can drill window plastic

Greenhouse made of frames with a polycarbonate roof

So, the task of how to make a greenhouse with your own hands from old window frames is almost solved. All that remains is to cover the structure and thereby protect the plantings from precipitation. There are three ways to do this:

Using the same frames as for the walls is only acceptable for greenhouse boxes, since placing a heavy structure with glass over someone’s head is unsafe.
Covering with film or spunbond is a simple and affordable solution. True, you will have to build a roof frame and remove the material for the winter.
Install polycarbonate sheets - if there are no stocks. This option requires material costs, but no hail is terrible for a greenhouse, and it can be used indefinitely.

Arched greenhouse under polycarbonate

Decide on the shape of the roof - will it be arched or gable. An arched one lets in more sunlight, covering it with film or polycarbonate is a pleasure, but you need to stock up metal profile, bent on a pipe bender. If you or someone you know does not have this device, switch to gable roof, especially since you almost never need to remove snow from it.

For the construction of a load-bearing roofing system do it yourself you will need:

ridge beam 5x5 cm of the same length as the constructed greenhouse;
timber 15x5 for rafters;
fasteners and Consumables;
tools - hammer, saw, electric drill, tape measure, axe, plumb line.

Gable greenhouse

The work algorithm looks like this:

Treat lumber for roofing with impregnation. Dry.
Based on the dimensions of the greenhouse and the pitch between the rafters (60–80 cm), calculate required quantity roof trusses. The roof inclination angle is 25–30 degrees.
According to the dimensions, make the first truss from two rafter legs and lower screed. Make all the other trusses using the template.
Install the trusses one by one on the top frame frame and secure them firmly on both sides with corners and self-tapping screws.

Wooden truss

Now cut the polycarbonate and, having correctly oriented the canvases (with the stiffening ribs vertically and the side protected from UV rays up), secure them to rafter system.

Fastening the rafters

Video: building a greenhouse with your own hands

Finally, ensure the tightness of the greenhouse you built yourself:

Install window glass and secure them with glazing beads (if the old ones are no good, you can buy new ones or replace them with colorless sealant).
Hang doors - use balcony doors, just cut them to their height first.
Seal large holes with polycarbonate residue, and small cracks with polyurethane foam.
Check how the windows close and open, install hinges and hooks to secure them.

Perhaps some points remain unclear - look at the selection of videos to see how to get out of various situations homemade summer residents. If you make a greenhouse from window frames, as shown in the instructions, it will serve faithfully for many years.

Video 1: Construction of a greenhouse from different frames

Video 2: Homemade greenhouse on a brick base

Video 3: Greenhouse under polycarbonate

Our climate is changeable, highly dependent on the time of year, so some plants do not ripen or produce a weak harvest. To combat this, people came up with greenhouses and greenhouses. With their help, in some cases you can get a harvest even in winter or collect two harvests in a year.

Materials used for greenhouses

What is the difference between a greenhouse and a greenhouse? Mainly in size. A person enters the greenhouse himself, but in the greenhouse there are only plants.

Although the industry offers various designs greenhouses, many will want to save money and make their own structure from scrap materials. This will be discussed below.

Stages of constructing your own greenhouse:

collecting material (frames) for the greenhouse;
choosing a location for a greenhouse;
choice of greenhouse design;
foundation installation;
walling;
construction of the roof.

When building professional greenhouses developed at institutes, they study which materials are best to use. Here they pay attention to the translucency of the material, which rays the material transmits and which it absorbs, and the like. However, in private households there is no particular choice of material.

Polycarbonate is the best choice, but it is quite expensive. Frames with glass are more affordable. The fact is that people from time to time make repairs in their apartments, and they often replace the windows, throwing the old frames into a landfill.

Glass frames are very suitable for greenhouses; they used to be made from it. The downside to glass is that it can break. On small farms this risk is reduced.

Film is also often used for greenhouses and greenhouses, but it is short-lived.

What are window frames

You will need quite a few frames for your greenhouse, so most likely they will not be the same size. This must be taken into account. In addition, the frames may be without glass or with a damaged frame. In the first case, instead of glass, you can mount something else in the frame, for example, film. In the second case, the defect is easiest to repair with polyurethane foam. Polyurethane foam will also come in handy when large cracks need to be sealed.

The frames themselves are currently made of wood. This is just very good, since the wood is easy to install - the frames can simply be knocked down or nailed to a single rail. In the future we can expect the appearance of plastic and metal frames. The installation of such frames is somewhat different than wooden ones, but also simple. The metal in the frames is most likely thin, so metal screws are suitable for fastening.

A special feature of frames with inserted glass is that the glass in the frame moves freely. That is, glass is not afraid of expansion due to temperature fluctuations.

Choosing a location for a greenhouse

The illumination of the building is important here. In addition, you can rotate the structure itself relative to the sun in the most appropriate way. The rest is up to the owner's taste.

In some cases, a greenhouse is attached to the wall of a house, which results in something like winter garden. In this case, there is less lighting than in a separate building (since the light does not penetrate from all sides). However, there are also advantages here. The greenhouse protects the building from external influences, receives heat from the house and itself prevents heat leakage.

The greenhouse should be such that you can walk freely in it. Most often they are made rectangular, taking into account the width of the beds. Usually there is a path in the middle along which a person walks, and on both sides of the path there are two beds or double beds. It's comfortable.

To save material, greenhouses are sometimes made in the form of a semicircle when viewed from the front. However, such a structure cannot be built from frames. If you make it from them, then it is most likely a rectangular parallelepiped, on top of which the roof is mounted.

Some greenhouse developers pay attention to the need to ventilate the greenhouse, for which they make vents. There is a need for this. If you want to control the microclimate, then you will make the greenhouse itself airtight with the possibility of controlled ventilation. Otherwise, it is better for tightness special attention not to pay, that is small cracks leave.

You need to understand that heat collects under the roof. For more even heating, there should be a high altitude or good ventilation. On the other hand, the smaller the volume of the room, the better it warms up. Since the weather varies, you will not achieve an ideal design. Be sure to provide ventilation. For this purpose, you can make two entrances to the greenhouse opposite each other (from the ends).

Additionally, heating of the greenhouse can be provided. Here you need to proceed from your wishes.

Step-by-step guide to building a structure

Foundation

The foundation is usually installed under a permanent structure. At the same time, its depth reaches one and a half meters (or more), which is due to the depth of soil freezing. The task of the foundation in this case is to avoid heaving of the soil under the walls of the house under the influence of cold temperatures.

In the case of a greenhouse, there is no need to install a deep foundation, since the structure is light and quite flexible. In this case, the purpose of the foundation is to isolate the wood of the frames from dampness and soil.

Walling

As a rule, the frames are wooden. They are often double. Such frames must be disassembled into two, because greenhouses are made of one layer of glass. Also, these structures usually have a bevel. To prevent it from interfering when joining the frames, they are deployed in the required manner.

You can simply knock down wooden frames with nails. But if a more capital structure is required, then all the frames on one side are attached to a single bar (rail, etc.). The block must be secured at the top and bottom. You can attach another one in the middle. If it goes inside the greenhouse, then plant stems can be tied to it.

Instead of nails, it is better to use wood screws. This way there is less risk that the glass will break, and it is easier to attach the flimsy structure.

When plastic windows Self-tapping screws and bolts are suitable. If you are attaching plastic to a block, then you can hammer in a nail. But the hole for it will have to be made in advance.

If the frames are metal, it is most likely thin steel or thin aluminum. Material like aluminum profile, but may be thicker. If the thickness is large, you will have to drill holes. For metal, screws have a smaller pitch than for wood.

Most comfortable material- these are wooden frames. And they are easier to drill if necessary, and the fastenings are reliable.

Hardware

Hardware is fastenings. Currently, you can find steel angles and plates in stores different shapes. All of them have holes for nails (screws, etc.). In some cases they are very convenient and replace other types of connections well.

If the connection is complex and the wood (joint) is not easy to fit, it is better to use steel hardware.

Erection of the roof

The roof does not have to be made from frames. The fact is that glass is still a fragile material. It can be installed vertically, it will last a long time and does not pose any danger. In the case of a roof, there is always a danger that hail will fall such that it can break the glass. There is also a danger that a lot of snow will accumulate on the roof, which will push through the glass.

It is undesirable to make the roof out of film or glass. Glass is dangerous and can even fall on your head, so making a flat glass roof is highly undesirable. If you make a roof using film, then most likely it will not last more than a season.

Roofs for greenhouses are made either rectangular (usually gable) or semicircular. If we ignore the hail, then for gable roofs frames are good. A ridge is attached on top of such a roof to prevent water from collecting on top. A ridge is a corner that covers the very top. Traditionally, roofs protrude slightly beyond the plane of the wall. This correct solution in case of winter, icicles will not crawl along the walls. The film can also be attached to a semicircular roof.

You saved on the walls, but for the roof itself you can use polycarbonate. Polycarbonate allows you to make the roof both straight and semicircular. In addition, it is quite rigid and light, so it requires a minimum of frame. This material does not break and is excellent for roofing.

Wooden frames are an excellent material for constructing greenhouse walls. You will get it completely free of charge. A greenhouse from such frames can be assembled in a day. However, it is still advisable to use polycarbonate for the roof.

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September 17, 2016
Specialization: professional approach to architecture, design and construction of private houses and cottages, new products on the market of building materials and finishing. Hobby: growing fruit trees and roses Breeding rabbits for meat and decorative breeds.

Everyone is familiar with the problem with used building materials. What to do with old wooden window frames if metal-plastic has been installed throughout the entire house or apartment? If there country cottage area, then a mini greenhouse made from windows is an excellent use of this material.

Average new greenhouse made of polycarbonate with an area of 20 square meters will cost from 15 to 25 thousand rubles. A greenhouse made from old windows will cost a maximum of five thousand, taking into account the cost of building a foundation and purchasing new boards for the frame.

It is not necessary to build a monumental structure, you can limit yourself to a mini greenhouse. How to build such a greenhouse with your own hands? I offer two alternative methods.

Choosing a place to build a greenhouse

In the photo - a mini greenhouse, we attach the frames from above along the ridge, the slope is at least 40 degrees

We build a greenhouse in a well-lit open place so that trees and buildings do not provide shade. If the area is small, then we orient ourselves in such a way that the morning and afternoon sun illuminates the greenhouse, and the evening sun rays You can also donate.

We arrange the greenhouse lengthwise from east to west. In this case, the sun will reach the plants evenly throughout the day, and the sprouts will not bend.

If we are building a small greenhouse without a strip foundation, then it is not necessary to take into account soil moisture. But when arranging a greenhouse of 20 square meters or more, when there are many frames, the foundation must be placed on a dry place.

Greenhouse dimensions and foundation structure

Even shallow strip foundation a greenhouse must be built in a place where there is no close groundwater. On my site, in two places at a depth of one and a half meters, the soil is already wet, and there the house used to be. So in this old house it was constantly damp. When wet, the foundation gradually collapses.

We choose a dry area, preferably with chernozem soil, under which there is a layer of sand. It is clear that not all of us are happy owners of fertile lands. Therefore, if the soil is clayey, then the soil for the greenhouse will need to be prepared before building the foundation.

A certain soil composition is required for a greenhouse:

The bottom layer - gravel or crushed stone - is a drainage that will allow excess water to pass through and allow plant roots to breathe and prevent rotting.
Next, a layer of sand is needed - all plants love light soils at the root lobes, which allow the thin growing root to form and grow unhindered.
Only the last, top layer should be fertile. This is a layer of chernozem enriched with humus, pre-prepared leaf compost or a complex mineral fertilizers(nitroammophoska).

Greenhouse size

A small do-it-yourself greenhouse made from old window frames does not need a foundation. A frame made of boards or timber can be laid directly on the ground.

To prevent the boards from rotting, the lower frame must be treated with a protective wood primer or tarred. Roofing felt, which is used to wrap the lower square of the frame and rack, at a height of about 50 centimeters above ground level, is also suitable.

the most comfortable beds— one meter wide, they can be easily processed on both sides;
We make the path between the beds so wide that it is convenient to move around. If you don't plan to use garden wheelbarrow, That optimal width paths - half a meter;
The optimal width of the greenhouse is four meters. Three beds and two paths fit here. The length is arbitrary.

You can plan your future greenhouse in advance on paper. It takes a couple of minutes to make a drawing, but it will help you navigate the required number of frames and boards, and optimally lay out the required number of beds and paths.

Foundation structure

A foundation is necessary for a large greenhouse, since the mass of frames with glass is rather large. A greenhouse made from window frames is installed with your own hands on a shallow (50 - 60 centimeters) strip foundation, since the frame can shrink under the weight of the frames and the structure is deformed.

For a footage of 10 square meters, a foundation on pillars is also suitable. The number of pillars is calculated based on the number of window frames. Ideally, each frame should be supported by two posts;
you can make a foundation of concrete, brick, or use a ready-made welded metal frame;
It's important to remember that brickwork Without a foundation, it “slides” over time, and it cannot be buried in the ground. Therefore, under the brick columns it is still necessary to pour a concrete base.
in regions with severe frosts it is worth using natural warmth soil. Therefore, the greenhouse is buried into the ground by about half a meter or a meter, depending on the depth of freezing of the ground in winter;
a simple strip foundation is poured according to the usual scheme: trench, board formwork, concrete pouring, hardening, formwork removal.

The foundation must be covered with roofing felt before installing the frame. This will help further protect wooden parts frame from dampness.

A welded frame is much more convenient. Why? For the reason that, if desired, the greenhouse can be moved to another location. If we fill the foundation, then it is already a permanent building.

I think you will be interested, there is information regarding the assessment suburban area. So - when assessing real estate on a site, all covered buildings on the foundation are included in the total economic area for which tax must be paid. Therefore it is cheaper to cook frame foundation under a greenhouse, which is easy to disassemble before the assessment commission arrives.

Frame installation

Before making a greenhouse from window frames, all wooden parts must be treated with a deep penetration primer, and the wood must also be painted. This will keep it from rotting. Carefully remove paint from all old frames and adjust the parts so that there are no gaps.

There is no need to remove the vents and hinges; they will be useful for installation and subsequent ventilation of the greenhouse in the summer. If the frames are different in size, then we group them so that the shorter ones fall on the ends of the greenhouse, and the taller ones cover its long part.

Doors will be installed on the sides and the missing height can be hemmed with boards, but along the length it is better to be continuous.

For the base of the frame, a 50x50 or unedged board, thickness 40 - 50 mm, no longer needed, as the weight of the entire structure increases. The board for the frame is preferable, since its width allows the frames to be securely fastened with self-tapping screws and will give our base additional rigidity.

Frame elements:

Bottom trim - dimensions along the perimeter of the foundation. The beams can be fastened together with metal corners on self-tapping screws, rather than nails, this is more reliable. If the strapping is made of boards, then to give rigidity along the length, you can install one or two more boards.
The posts are attached vertically to the bottom frame. They are mounted in the corners, along the length and on the sides in increments equal to the width of the window frames selected for the greenhouse. The racks in one row should be lower than in the other - for a slope of 40 degrees. The difference in height of the racks is 30 centimeters.
The top trim is the basis for the roof. A window frame greenhouse must have a slope angle of at least 40 degrees so that water can easily drain and accumulate in the film.
It is not practical to install a gable roof on such a structure. A single-slope roof would also work.. In order for the film to be securely fastened, the pitch between the roof slats should be no more than 60 cm. For the roof, you can use plasterboard guides. They are lightweight and very easy to attach to wood with self-tapping screws.

All fasteners are made using wood screws only. Fastening with nails during operation does not stand up to criticism; in a year the entire structure will be swaying in the wind.

Fastening the frames to the frame

There are a few important nuances, which must be taken into account when attaching frames to the finished frame:

The fastening step with self-tapping screws is 25 - 30 centimeters, no less.
The joints between the frames must be sealed. Polyurethane foam or regular window putty will do. Additionally, you can lay insulating tape or a rubber seal.
For reliability, the outside of the frame must also be attached with self-tapping screws; here the step can be more than 40 - 50 cm.
For reliability, the frame can be secured from the inside with a board at the bottom. We also attach it to wood screws.

If there are few old frames, then the northern side of the greenhouse can be covered with a board or thick one. But it is necessary to paint the plywood, as it very quickly becomes unusable from rain and snow.

Roof installation

The roofing material is dense polyethylene film for greenhouses or polycarbonate. Glazing a roof is a thankless task. Hail, heavy rain or squall and you have to change the glazing, and the price of glass is now quite high.

The downside of the film is that this canopy will have to be removed for the winter, and the reliability leaves much to be desired. Advantage - suitable pitched roof, less work and consumption of building materials. The pitch of the lathing under the film is no more than 40 m, since it sags and rainwater accumulates in it.
Polycarbonate is more expensive than film, but it is more reliable option, also allows you to install an arched roof.

Homemade greenhouse small sizes It’s better to cover it with film; it’s easy to remove for the winter.

Installation of a gable roof frame

The operating procedure is as follows:

We install two load-bearing beams along the length, and we will attach the roof rafters to them.
TO top harness We fasten the rafters, depending on the length of the greenhouse from three to six pieces.
It is important to determine the angle of inclination of the rafters; it should be the same.
We mount the rafters to load-bearing beam using vertical posts (trusses).
Next, along the rafters we apply lathing from slats to secure the roof covering. For polycarbonate, the pitch of the slats is 60 - 80 centimeters, for film 40 - 50 cm.
We fasten the roof along the sheathing. It is advisable to secure the film to the rafters with thin slats for reliability.

That's all, our greenhouse is ready, we can supply water and install electricity and lighting.

Summary

In the video presented in this article you can see the entire process of constructing a greenhouse from old window frames. If readers have any interesting suggestions and innovations, I invite you to discuss them in the comments.

September 17, 2016

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Even in temperate climate will cost the owner a lot. However, enterprising summer residents have learned to save and use all available means to achieve their goal. It is for this reason that you should not throw away old window frames. After all, a DIY greenhouse made from old window frames is an excellent and inexpensive alternative.

By the way, even “empty” frames, i.e. without glass, are quite suitable for use - they can subsequently be covered with plastic film or scraps of glass, polycarbonate, etc. can be inserted into them.

But here it is worth understanding that wood is a very capricious material and without appropriate preparation it will simply rot in the ground in a couple of years.

In order for a future greenhouse made from old window frames to last for more than one year, it is important to “prepare” the wooden frames, that is, treat them with special compounds to increase their service life. This does not require spending a lot of time, and Money Same. You just need to do a few simple manipulations.

1. First of all, the future construction material it is worth cleaning - freeing the frames from fittings: all small and large nails, hooks, loops, latches and the like are removed from the wood. In addition, if there is glass left in the frames, they must also be removed temporarily - for more high-quality processing material.
When choosing frames, it is important to remember that the design of a greenhouse made from old window frames implies the presence of several (at least two) windows for ventilation.

2. Cleaning wood from old paint and other things facing material(self-adhesive paper, wallpaper, etc.) – this the most important stage frame preparation. After this event, the resulting bare tree should be covered mainly in several layers with antiseptic compounds, and then with paint or varnish - whatever is at hand.

By the way - to achieve maximum term greenhouse service from window frames, it is best to use light colors of paint ( the best option will White color) – this will reduce the heating of the structure.

What size window frame greenhouse should I choose?

First of all, the owner must determine what size he wants to build a greenhouse from window frames with his own hands. Maybe it will be enough for him to organize a small portable greenhouse for growing seedlings, or he needs a permanent structure. A lot will depend on this choice: choosing the location for future construction, preparing and compacting the soil, organizing the foundation, and everything in the same spirit. But here it is worth understanding that the dimensions of such a structure will directly depend on the number of available ready-made frames.

Advice: with a limited amount of material, but the desire to have a fairly large greenhouse, it can easily be made in the form of an extension to a building - a barn, a house, etc.

Do-it-yourself greenhouse from old window frames: preparation

Choosing a location.

Before you start building a greenhouse from window frames or other available raw materials, you should carefully select a location - it should be located on an illuminated plot of land for as long as possible. That is, a garden with trees, a platform near a relatively tall buildings, other shady areas should not be considered.

The density and homogeneity of the soil must also be taken into account. For example, if the soil is bulk, then it should first be thoroughly compacted, otherwise the greenhouse made from window frames may subsequently tilt or sag.

Preparing the construction site.

To build a greenhouse from window frames with your own hands, designed for several years of service, you need to thoroughly clear the site - remove bushes, trees and their roots, clear the soil of other debris.

It is also important to take into account that the place for future work should not be at too low a level - this way moisture will constantly enter the greenhouse from the window frames and flow into the greenhouse. storm water, thereby flooding, even if easy simple foundation, spoiling enough old wood ram.

Do-it-yourself greenhouse from old window frames: step by step

So, if the owner has the desire and opportunity (availability of the necessary building materials) to make a greenhouse from window frames, it is worth remembering that a height of 2.45-2.60 meters (the most acceptable height) will require the organization of a foundation.

Foundation.

When organizing a reliable foundation, you will get a very durable structure that can last about 7-11 years - it all depends on literacy preparatory work, wood processing, etc.

To increase the service life of the entire structure, as well as compact the lower layers of soil, it is better to think about additional insulation soil. For these purposes, dense polyethylene is used, laid along the perimeter of the greenhouse from window frames below the freezing level of the soil.

As for the foundation itself, both the strip version made of concrete or a similar mixture, and the columnar version “work well” here.

Concrete strip option.

The tape variation involves advance marking followed by digging small trenches, the height of which should be at least 75 cm, and the width, in turn, 16, preferably 20 centimeters.

The sealing “cushion” (16-22 cm) is made of successively laid layers sand mixture and small crushed stone - crushed stones.

Wooden formwork is installed by strengthening it with a concrete mass above ground level (reinforcement with reinforcement is preferable).

It should be understood that the thoroughness of concrete drying depends directly on the environmental conditions - from 2-4 days in hot, stable weather and up to 20 days in changeable humid weather.

The base is made of dense timber.

However, a wooden base made of solid timber or dense boards is also suitable. However, it will last a little less - up to 6 years with reasonable preparation of the timber (wood deteriorates and rots in the soil very quickly).

The timber must be selected with a size of at least 10:10 cm. It is covered antiseptics and is painted with paint-varnish in several layers.

The finished wood is laid in a pre-dug trench - shallow and about 16 cm wide. Moreover, it is preferable to place the wood on the same “cushion” of sand and crushed stone.

If you want to achieve maximum service life, the timber should be wrapped in polyethylene, roofing felt and other similar fabrics that do not allow moisture to pass through.

Each individual bar is connected to the next one through the use of corners.

Columnar option.

The simplest and most cost-effective is the columnar base: it will require little time to organize, plus everything - minimum costs building material.

Initially, you need to dig narrow holes with a minimum depth of half a meter - in the corners and in increments of 3 meters.

Wood formwork is installed in each resulting cell, sand is poured, crushed stone or crushed stone is laid on top, compacted, periodically watering with water (a small amount) - to achieve the tightest possible fastening.

When the formwork is centered and securely fixed, it is filled with concrete mixture.

Organization of the frame.

To simplify the construction process, as well as minimum quantity construction waste, you should draw a plan in advance, guided by the available number of frames and the size of the foundation. On this drawing you need to indicate the fixation points for intermediate and main (corner) beams, the location of doors, vents/windows, as well as the fixation height of the upper part of the frames for the greenhouse.

If we take into account the fact that the greenhouse will be built from old unnecessary frames - wood, then a wooden frame should be preferred. However, and metal corners in this case they “work” quite well.

Need to know: The binding of the lower part of such a structure is carried out at the stage of laying the upper sections of the foundation, it is filled with concrete or a similar mixture - for maximum effective adhesion to the base. As for the upper and central horizontal frames, they are fixed to the “skeleton” of the structure using self-tapping bolts of appropriate sizes (galvanized steel elements are most preferable).

Roof.

The most ergonomic roof configurations are considered to be triangular “houses” and, of course, arched hemispherical analogues. Both of these types tolerate winter drifts well - the snow simply rolls off the sloping slopes.

Arched covering.

Those who want to have an arched type of roof on a personal greenhouse made from window frames will have to fork out a little and order arched hollow pipes from the appropriate manufacturer. If the owner has a special pipe bending machine for personal use, then it is still worth using it - if you have experience working with this tool, of course.
In this situation, curved rods are fixed to transverse straight lines perpendicularly in increments of approximately 45-55 centimeters using self-tapping bolts.

Triangle roofs.

As for the triangular variation of the roof, it is assembled, like the previous one, on the ground and from separate strong boards, preferably strong laminated veneer lumber of the same diameter as the frames. The tops of the “triangles” are fixed to ridge boards or metal plates.

In order for the roof to be quite light, it should be covered either with a very dense film or with honeycomb (cellular) polycarbonate sheets.

Installation of frames directly.

The frames, prepared in advance - painted and impregnated with antiseptic compounds, are fixed to the racks to the frame using angles, self-tapping bolts and plates made of high-quality metal. Special hinges should be used to secure vents, windows and doors.

Advice: It is better to install moving parts on opposite sides of the greenhouse from window frames, for better ventilation of the interior of the greenhouse.

All leaks formed during the installation process must first be treated with sealant - blow out with foam and wood planks are hammered on top. The glass is inserted into frames and then sealed with special compounds of gels, silicon gels, etc.

If the owner wants to use film covering materials such as thick film, it is worth thinking about an assistant - it will be difficult to carry out such activities on your own. Here you need to understand that you should use not just nails or screws as fastening elements - this way the film at the fastening points will allow cold air currents to pass through, but pre-prepared wood slats.

In conclusion, it must be added that the service life of a greenhouse built from old window frames with your own hands will directly depend on the quality of the preparatory and construction work, as well as proper ergonomic care - washing, antiseptic measures, etc.