Wall puttying technique. How to apply finishing putty with your own hands: is it possible immediately after the starting putty, how to level it correctly and when the finishing mixture is not needed How to properly apply putty on walls with a spatula

The choice of putty based on the wall material: concrete, brick, wood. Selection of primer for putty. Principles of material application and sanding. Tips for beginners.

Wallpaper putty

Before you start wallpapering, you need to prepare the walls.

Putty under the wallpaper is applied only after all work on plastering the walls has been completed.

Drywall is called dry plaster; this base should also be puttied and prepared for gluing.

Is it necessary to putty the walls under wallpaper?

This should be done for several reasons:

  1. Plastered walls have many defects that will be visible when wallpapering. They can especially stand out when gluing striped wallpaper or thin, light colors.
  2. After plastering, when drying, the walls may have cracks. They definitely need to be sealed. Because the reasons for the appearance of this deficiency are unknown - they expand due to soil movement, but if the solution is not made correctly, they can remain unchanged.
  3. After puttying, the walls become more protected from external factors.
  4. Puttying plasterboard wall mandatory since craftsmen do not recommend gluing wallpaper onto “bare” drywall for many reasons - from loss of the appearance of the wallpaper to unpleasant surprises when removing it.

Surface filling is carried out in several stages:

  1. Determining the unevenness of the wall and its preparation.
  2. Applying the starting mixture.
  3. Finishing coating and bringing the surface to perfection.

At correct implementation putty work, the surface will be ready for wallpapering.

Correct work will prevent the putty layers from peeling off and the wallpaper falling off.

Types of ready-made putty for walls: which one is better


A well-putty surface is the result of the master’s final work and an indicator of the materials used.

Ready-made putty mixtures allow you to reduce the time of the master for mixing putty.

The most used types of ready-made putties:

  1. Latex acrylic - applied to any surface, including drywall. Its most widespread use is in finishing surface coating. The elastic solution allows you to make a layer of putty of 1-3 mm.
  2. Oil-adhesive and adhesive - has a high density, so professionals work with it. It is difficult to apply to the surface, but when dried it has a certain strength.
  3. Putty with PVA. It has antifungal components, so it is applicable in damp areas.

It is better for a novice master to work with a ready-made solution. It is more plastic, fits well on plaster and retains its qualities after drying.

Starting: the best choice

Except ready-made mixtures, dry putty solutions are sold on the market.
The starting putty is applied to prepared plastered walls.

The most commonly used putties are:

Cement putty is used in damp rooms. It is coarse-grained, with a gray tint.

Gypsum mixtures are used in a dry room that is heated in winter. It contains quicklime.

Polymer - used in both wet and dry rooms. Has high elasticity.

Manufacturers of starting putty:

  1. Starting putty Knauf Designed for indoor work. It has a plaster base. Because of its environmental pure composition the mixture is used in children's rooms. The disadvantage of putty is that it hardens quickly. The maximum layer of applied solution is 1.5 cm.
  2. Volma-Standard. Consists of gypsum and mineral compositions. After puttying, you can start gluing. The surface is smooth and durable. The downside is that it sets quickly.
  3. Osnovit-Ekonsilk is a gypsum base. Designed for dry rooms. Plastic, does not shrink. The thickness of the applied layer is 1 mm, if more, then cracks appear when drying.

By observing the correct preparation of the solution, filling the wall will have a good result.

Finish: how to choose according to the best rating


After the starting putty has dried and the work has been completed, the finishing mixture is applied. The most popular are:

  1. Prospectors - Finish. The composition includes gypsum and additives. Used in rooms with high humidity. Shrink-resistant, flexible, quick-drying. The downside is the low strength of the surface after drying.
  2. WEBER LR+. The applied layer is 1-5 mm. the working solution does not harden within 2 days. After drying, a flat, smooth white surface is obtained. Putty is applied both manually and mechanically.
  3. Sheetrock Superfinish - contains vinyl additives, so the putty has high ductility. A layer of 2 mm dries in 5 hours. However, the master recommends carrying out all subsequent work one day after application. Has shrinkage.

How to choose a good coarse grain

Coarse putty is needed for the initial treatment of the wall after plastering. The most popular are:

  • Unis Blik – includes natural materials. Do not use in rooms with high humidity. To putty the surface, a reinforcing mesh is used. There is no shrinkage. Has plasticity, after drying there are no cracks;
  • Vgt acrylic universal – based on acrylic. Layer thickness 1-7 mm. Has little shrinkage and good adhesion.

Coarse putties are all types of cement-based mixtures.

Which is better for deep leveling?


Starting putties. With their help it is possible to eliminate all errors plastering works, cracks. It is coarse-grained, applied to surfaces up to 20 mm.

Leading manufacturers:

  • Knauf NR putty (starter) – gypsum putty, applied in a layer from 4 mm to 15 mm. The main direction is leveling the surface before finishing coating. After mixing, the solution quickly hardens; after 15 minutes, work stops. Does not shrink.
  • Ceresit CT 29 starting – performing work on concrete, brick, cement-sand wall. It is used to seal cracks and recesses left after plastering. The maximum applied layer is 20 mm. Not suitable for use in rooms with high humidity. After mixing, the solution can be used for 50 minutes. It takes 10-15 hours to completely dry on the surface. High strength.
  • Kreisel 662 is universal - it contains cement and lime. Apply thin layer on surfaces covered with plaster, as well as without coating. Has high adhesion. Use the mixture in rooms with high humidity. The maximum layer is 3 mm, there is shrinkage.

When cracks are detected, in addition to putty, reinforcing tape must be used. It will prevent the crack from getting bigger.

Which putty to choose for drywall

The plasterboard surface is treated several times. Initially, putty is used for joints together with reinforced tape. The second stage is coating with starting putty.


The next stage is covering the surface with finishing putty. Only after one layer has completely dried should we proceed to the next work.

Under the wallpaper, the plasterboard surface is covered with layers of putty for greater strength of the entire structure.

For a neat appearance, because if thin wallpaper is pasted onto sheets without treatment, the color of the wall will appear on the wallpaper.

How to putty on wooden surfaces before wallpapering

Puttying wooden surface different from concrete and brick. There are factors influencing the choice of putty mixture for wood:

  • high adhesion - the service life of the putty under the wallpaper depends on this;
  • the solution must be elastic;
  • drying speed.

Types of mortar used for wood surfaces:

  1. Gypsum based mixture.
  2. Latex putty.
  3. A mixture with the addition of acrylic.
  4. Oil mixture.
  5. Putty with PVA.

Basically, craftsmen use gypsum mixtures that do not shrink and have good ductility.

Which putty is better to putty on untreated concrete?


A concrete wall generally does not have large differences in plane. Therefore, having skipped plastering, they immediately proceed to puttying with the starting composition.

The base coat consists of several layers. Moreover, the second layer is applied only after the first has completely dried. Cement mixtures are mixed for coating. They shrink, so the layer should not be thick.

The finishing layer should be thin. It is difficult to hide the gray color of the starting material underneath, however, a thin layer makes the surface smooth, ready for wallpapering.

Universal putties are also used. But, apply them in a thin layer 2 times. They are plastic and do not shrink. If the walls are smooth, the differences are 2-5 mm, then the use of mixtures is permissible.

How many coats should be applied to bare concrete walls?

Apply 1 layer of starting putty to a practically flat concrete surface. The layer thickness does not exceed 15 mm. Beginners should use a perforated beacon profile to level the wall. It is fixed to the mixture and the level is adjusted for evenness. Work begins only after the solution under the profile has completely dried.

Attention. If there wooden slats, they are used as beacons. But, the rail should not be high and jagged, otherwise there will be a ribbed surface.

What technologies exist


Masters use 4 methods that are suitable for beginners:

  1. Mechanical method of applying the solution.
  2. Semi-mechanical - applying the mixture, and then leveling it with a spatula.
  3. Beacon - used for starting putty.

For mechanical method A machine that sprays putty in a thin layer is applicable. After applying the layer, use a spatula with a wide spatula to level the surface.

Semi-mechanical - the machine throws large drops onto the wall, which must be spread evenly over the entire wall.

Beacon is applicable for starting plastering. Suitable for beginners. The use of beacon profiles will speed up and facilitate work.

How to properly putty walls with your own hands for beginners without experience: a step-by-step guide

Beginning craftsmen need to know the nuances and correctness of the work.

The stages of preparing the solution and applying the material to the surface include:

  • to prepare the solution, you must carefully read the instructions and know exactly how much water is needed for mixing;
  • the starting solution is applied to the surface horizontally and vertically. To avoid bumps, you do not need to apply the solution from the floor itself. It catches garbage. Angle - here you need to go with a spatula perpendicular to the corner, horizontal to the floor. This way there will be no “washboard”;
  • For productive work, the solution is prepared in small portions. During production, it will not have time to harden;
  • the finishing layer is applied to the primed surface with a layer of 2 mm;
  • when puttingty, the tool must be held at an angle of 30 degrees;
  • After applying the mortar to the walls, putty the corner with an angle trowel.

Surface preparation


In order for the surface to be perfectly flat and smooth, the surface must be prepared. This process consists of several steps:

  1. Cleaning walls from dust, excess stones, frozen drops of plaster. For cleaning, mechanical means are used - grinders, brushes, spatulas.
  2. Surface priming. This must be done for degreasing, and almost all primers contain antiseptics, protecting the surface from mold.

After processing the wall, proceed to subsequent work.

Selecting the required tool


To properly putty with your own hands, you need to have the following tool:

  • construction mixer;
  • set of spatulas - wide spatula, small, angled;
  • brush, roller for priming;
  • rule for creating flat wall- 2 meters;
  • level to control the evenness of the wall;
  • sandpaper for rubbing the surface;
  • skinner;
  • container for the mixture.

All tools and containers must be clean. This will speed up the process and prevent the solution from hardening quickly. Because frozen particles in the container and on the spatulas accelerate the hardening of the mixture.

How to putty uneven surfaces with starting putty for a beginner

To apply the starting mixture to a dry, clean wall, beginners are recommended to use metal beacon profiles. They are installed along the wall so that the maximum distance from one profile to another is 1.5 meters.

Beacons are placed on the holes with putty. Evenness is determined by level. The excess solution that comes out is removed. The mixture must be completely dry before starting work.

The putty is applied to the wall with dots and stretched over the surface without crawling out. installed beacons. The evenness of the surface is determined by the rule. With its help, the solution is tightened and the excess is removed from the instrument. If necessary, apply a second layer of solution.

The second layer is applied only after the first has dried.

If the putty shrinks, then 20 minutes after application it must be tightened according to the rule.

How many times do you apply the mixture before it hardens?


The starting mixture is applied in a layer of 20 mm.

If you need to level the wall with a large layer, then apply a second layer.

But this happens in rare cases, because after plastering work the unevenness is on average up to 1 cm.

Puttying of bare walls is carried out if the unevenness is 2 cm. The plaster layer is applied once, maybe with an overlap.

How and what is the best way to check the readiness of the surface for subsequent stages of work

After puttingtying the wall, the work must be left for a while. It all depends on the composition. Cement mortars shrink: after 20 minutes, the treated wall must be tightened according to the rule. After 1 hour, you need to run your palm over the surface, it should give “milk”, while the solution is already hardened. This milk is carefully removed with a spatula. They do the washing. Cement mortar hardens for about a day. Check with your palm, the solution should not stick.

Gypsum and polymer mixtures do not shrink. After application, they do not need to be touched for at least 10 hours. After this, use a dry palm to rub the surface. It should be dry and smooth. If dampness or sticking is felt, then the surface is left for some time.

The manufacturer's packaging indicates the exact time for the mixture to dry on the surface. We must wait for this time.

Do I need a primer for finishing putty: which one to use?


All primers differ in their composition and purpose. Primer mixtures must be applied before finishing putty for the following reasons:

  • The primer increases the adhesion of the applied materials. That is, the topcoat will fit better on a primed surface;
  • if, after the starting mixture has dried, a “cobweb” of microcracks appears on the surface, then the primer clogs them, preventing moisture from penetrating there;
  • The primer creates a thin film on the surface, protecting it from the absorption of moisture and components of the finishing layer in the starting layer. Thanks to this, the finishing solution applies evenly. Material consumption is reduced.

The compatibility of the primer with putty is indicated in the table:

How to apply the finish yourself and putty correctly

For correct application When applying material to the surface, the principle of applying the material from dry to wet must be followed. You need to step back 30-40 cm from the ceiling and apply a layer of mortar. From the ceiling, the putty is applied with vertical movements.

It is better to apply putty under side light. For this they use diode lamp or spotlight. Uncertain movement with a spatula and too thick putty leave a ribbed mark on the surface, visible under the light of a lamp.

Vertical movements with a spatula near corners are unacceptable. The tool touches the adjacent wall - a “washboard” appears. The tool is led from the corner to the opposite wall.

The finishing putty is applied in a layer of 1-3 mm, so the mixture should not be thick.

What to do after finishing putty: grouting


After the walls have dried, they are sanded and rubbed.

To work you need:

  • painting block;
  • respirator;
  • diode lamp;
  • diamond mesh or sandpaper.

There are 2 ways to sand walls:

  1. Grout the walls with a diamond mesh or sandpaper (it gets clogged quickly) under the wallpaper.
  2. Grout under the lamp with fine-grained sandpaper.

In the first method, a block is used, on which the mesh fraction is 300-400. There are irregularities on the wall that are invisible without a lamp. You need to put on a mask and walk in a circular motion along the entire wall. Use a vacuum cleaner to collect dust on the floor from time to time.

When performing work, a lot of dust appears, so you will need an old vacuum cleaner, as well as good ventilation.

In the second case, the lamp is installed on the side so that the light goes along the wall. Then you can see all the imperfections after the finishing layer. A mesh with a fine fraction of 600 and above is put on the block. Starting from the corner, scan the wall. For all small recesses, bumps, and stripes, grout in a circular motion.

The second method is applicable for surfaces for painting or gluing thin wallpaper, which repeat the surface structure.

When can you start gluing?


After sanding the surface, you need to clean the walls from dust with a brush and dry rag. This is done with a vacuum cleaner at first speed. After cleaning the wall, it must be coated with a primer. After drying, it will leave a thin film that will protect the glue from being absorbed into the surface.

When the primer is completely dry, start working on the wallpaper.

Having studied all the subtleties of choosing a putty, the surface will be perfectly smooth and durable. You shouldn’t miss small nuances from your work, they make a big difference important role in forming a solid wall under wallpaper.

Walls with putty and wallpaper have an attractive appearance, long term guarantees.

Useful video

In what cases is it necessary finishing putty? Preparation of walls, rules for applying finishing putty, and details of how to sand it with sandpaper.

Why do you need to putty walls with finishing putty?

Without this work, even after meticulous treatment of the walls, flaws will remain.

If you plan to stick wallpaper with a rough texture on the walls, then such features will be invisible.

But if it is desirable to glue silk-screen printing, or wallpaper made of fabric or with a small print, then the absence of finishing putty will emphasize irregularities and defects.

Is it necessary to apply a finish to previously treated surfaces?

It is still better to apply finishing putty, even if the wall has already been treated and seems even and smooth. If you apply a white solution to the wall, then stains will definitely not appear on the wallpaper.

Do-it-yourself finishing putty on walls

Finishing putty is the final preparation of the walls. Subsequently, the walls are painted or covered with wallpaper.

Preparing the walls

Before filling the surface, severe unevenness must be removed. It is for this purpose that they install plasterboard structures or plastering the wall.


The next stage is priming the surface. It improves adhesion. After drying, you can begin to putty.


For surface pretreatment, starting mixtures are used.

Convenient to use two spatulas different sizes. One of them should be up to 50 centimeters long, and the second should be only 10 centimeters. A small spatula will allow you to easily work in hard to reach places oh and in the corners. A large tool will allow you to get tired less open areas walls.

Features of puttying work:

  1. Don't knead too much a large number of putties. Over time, it tends to dry out. The optimal volume is the amount for one hour of work.
  2. The putty should be applied in several layers. Professionals apply a minimum of three layers, which makes it possible to achieve an ideal result. The coating is durable and reliable.
  3. Putty from the corner and gradually level the wall towards the center.

How to apply correctly


If you plan to apply paint or wallpaper to the wall, then you need to apply a layer of finishing putty on top of the starting layer, as it will straighten the walls as much as possible.

Step-by-step application of finishing putty:

  1. The substance is applied in a thin layer to ensure evenness of the walls and save on costs.
  2. To reduce the consumption of the mixture, it is necessary to make the walls as even as possible when using the starting putty.

If you have a dry mixture, you must strictly follow the instructions. Pour a small amount of water into the container and add mortar, mix thoroughly. Then mix using a special mixer, gradually adding water to the container.

When working on a wide spatula with a small spatula, you need to apply the finishing putty in small portions. Afterwards it is evenly applied to the wall in a very thin layer, approximately 1.5-2 mm.

Then wait until the layer is completely dry.

Before applying each subsequent layer of finishing putty, it is recommended to coat each previous layer with a primer.

You can apply 3 layers.

After the finishing layer has dried, it is necessary to level the surface using a sanding mesh or fine-grained sandpaper.

First, to grind the surface, use 60 grit, and then change the sandpaper, take 120 grit.

Sanding requires a careful inspection of the wall. Notice the biggest defects. To achieve an ideal result, it is necessary to use construction lights that direct a powerful stream of light directly onto the wall. This will allow you to detect all emerging deficiencies in a timely manner and eliminate them. As a result of bright light, shadows from wall projections or depressions become visible on the wall. These shadows must be outlined with a pencil.

You should sand the wall, starting from the corner. Then they move from top to bottom, first cleaning a strip 1 m wide. After completely sanding the strip, they begin to sand the next strip. Sand the wall with sandpaper, making spiral movements. Do this carefully, without applying great effort. Do not press too hard, otherwise holes will appear in the putty.

How long does it take to dry?

There are 3 types of finishing putty for sale: cement-based, gypsum-based and polymer-based.

A composition based on cement or gypsum dries in almost the same time, but the polymer mixture dries out after a longer period of time.

  1. A cement-based composition is used where there is increased humidity, for example, in kitchens and bathrooms. For the façade of a building, it is better to use cement-lime-based putty. As a rule, this putty dries in 1-2 hours, but if work is carried out outdoors, it depends on the season.
  2. A gypsum-based composition is used in rooms where humidity is low; drying time is 2 hours.
  3. Here's the drying period polymer putty up to 24 hours.

The putty itself hardens quickly, but the moisture still needs to evaporate. Therefore very thick layer can dry from 2 days to 2 weeks. But it’s better to apply it in a thin layer of 1.5-2 mm.

What to do after drying

Then the walls are painted. You can also cover them with wallpaper.

Is it possible to immediately level the walls with finishing putty?


Finishing putty can only remove the most minor defects. Therefore, if the walls are uneven, then be sure to apply starting putty to them first in order to cancel out large cracks.

If in the past during repair work Putty was often not carried out, but today it is mandatory process. Modern high-tech finishing materials allow you to do all the work yourself. At the same time, you will save on the services of professionals and get high-quality results.

Using the tips from this article will help you get the job done efficiently and without flaws. The main thing is to take your time and ensure that all recommendations are applied.

Useful video

It cannot be said that the technology of puttying walls is too complex and is only available to specialists. But a certain skill, knowledge of all the intricacies of working with the material to perform this stage of repair, is still necessary. Compliance with all the rules for choosing and applying putty makes it possible to create a high-quality rough coating or a beautiful final decor.

Rules for choosing putty for walls

The assortment of putties in the store is large, which can confuse an ignorant consumer and complicate the problem of choice. The main factors to consider when choosing a material are:

  • Wall material
  • terms of Use
  • Finishing material

The properties of putty depend on its composition. The mixture can be:

  • Acrylic
  • Water-dispersed
  • Oil-adhesive
  • Based on gypsum, cement

Highly reliable and durable acrylic putty. The coating is highly resistant to moisture, so it can be used for finishing walls in bathrooms, toilets, kitchens, and laundry rooms.

Water-dispersed putties are an environmentally friendly material. The layer adheres well to the surface thanks to polymers dissolved in water. This guarantees the finish a long service life.

The lowest cost differs oil-glue mixtures. The basis for such putties is drying oil. But there is an opinion that these materials emit substances harmful to health, so you should not use them to renovate your apartment. Oil-adhesive putty can only be used for painting with materials based on drying oil.

Most durable coating obtained by using mixtures made with gypsum or cement basis. But working with such putty is not easy. It is important to accurately observe the proportions of the mixture and water and mix the components thoroughly. The prepared solution dries quickly, so you need to prepare it in the quantity that you plan to use.

Preparing walls for applying putty

High-quality preparation of the wall for applying putty is prerequisite to get a good result. It is especially important to create an ideal surface when using paint as wall covering. Serious flaws will be visible under the wallpaper. Preparatory work consists of several stages:

  1. Cleaning
  2. Degreasing
  3. Thermal and antibacterial treatment (if necessary)
  4. Primer

At the first stage, the wall is cleaned of dust, dirt from old coatings, scale, and other contaminants. For this we use: Grinder, brush, spatula. The cleaned surface must be degreased to ensure good adhesion of the putty to the surface. To do this, you can wash the wall with compounds containing alkali. If there are rust stains on the surface, use a thermal cleaning torch. In a room with high humidity, it is advisable to preventive treatment to prevent the appearance of mold. In the presence of recesses, potholes with a depth of more than 3-5 mm, before applying putty, you need to level them with plaster. The last stage of preparation is. This layer will provide adhesion strength and reduce material consumption, since it will not be absorbed into the wall surface.

Plastering walls for painting

Painting remains one of the popular finishing methods at all times. This finish is quite economical, durable, and easy to maintain. The paint is resistant to moisture and temperature changes. Therefore, coloring can be used for any room. It should be noted that the wall surface must be ideal, since any defects will certainly be noticeable.

The putty is applied after completely dry primers. You will need to apply two layers: starting and finishing. You can use products from the Knauf company, whose range includes putties for both types of work. The material for the starting layer contains sand, which makes it possible to apply a layer up to 4 mm. In this work you will need two spatulas: wide and narrow. The solution is distributed over the surface first, and leveled by the second. To obtain a durable, high-quality layer, puttying with a mesh is used. A layer of putty about 2 mm thick is applied to the wall, then a special nylon mesh is applied to the material and pressed with a spatula. The finishing layer is distributed on this surface. You should not try to create an ideal surface at this stage; it is enough to get rid of empty spaces and depressions. After 8 hours, after complete drying, all tubercles and transitions are removed using a jointer or a bar with an abrasive mesh №60-80 .

To create the finishing layer, putty without large particles is used, which allows you to create a perfectly smooth surface. Its thickness should be no more than 2 mm. Otherwise, the putty may crack. After the layer has dried, you need to polish abrasive mesh No. 120.

Puttying walls under wallpaper

An even layer of putty about 3 mm thick is created under the wallpaper. Two spatulas are used for this work. First, the prepared mixture is distributed in the form of strips using a tool with a wide plane. The overlap should be about 20% of the width. There is no need to thoroughly grind the resulting sausages. Get required thickness layer by selecting correct angle tilt of the spatula. It should be approximately 20-30°. The smaller this value, the thicker the putty layer will be. It is necessary to try to maintain the same slope so that the surface turns out without bumps.

After the material has completely dried, the surface should be sanded. Jointer with mesh abrasive №80-120 circular movements are performed. Then you need to reduce the pressure and, using cross, random strokes, remove traces of circles, make the surface perfectly flat.

Puttying walls on plasterboard

Puttying plasterboard walls is mandatory preparatory stage before painting the walls. The paint can be absorbed into the material. This not only increases the cost, but also creates the risk of damage to the drywall. The work is carried out in two stages. Perhaps, before puttying, you will be interested in learning about soundproofing the walls in the apartment (). First, the seams between the sheets are sealed with putty so that the surface is smooth and the joints become invisible. You can put putty in the recess. But a better result can be achieved by using Serpyanka. This self-adhesive mesh reliably aligns joints and corners. Then a thin layer of putty is applied to it. At the first stage, the heads of the screws that secure the drywall are also covered.

To apply the finishing layer, use a wide spatula. The consistency of the mixture should be identical sour cream. It is advisable to create a perfectly even layer. Good result obtained when working with Rotband, which is ideal for drywall. After drying, the surface must be sanded using sandpaper with fine abrasives. This technology for puttying walls in an apartment will provide an ideal result, which long years will delight you with its beauty.

Video

We continue our series of articles about do-it-yourself wall putty. Today we'll talk about puttying ordinary walls- brick or panel (but not plasterboard), although the process diagrams are similar.

Classification and types of putties

Putties are classified into gypsum, cement and polymer.

Disadvantages and advantages of each type.

  1. On a gypsum basis: They are low cost, they are perfectly leveled and do not shrink. The disadvantage here is their low resistance to moisture, which limits their scope of application. Gypsum putties walls should be used in dry rooms, and their use in rooms with high humidity or with a large temperature difference is unacceptable. The cost of one bag (20 kg) averages from 250 rubles.
  2. Cement: have high degree resistance to moisture, but the degree of their shrinkage is just as high. This requires re-puttying. Such mixtures can be used in rooms with high humidity, such as the kitchen or bathroom.(read the article about puttying walls under wallpaper). Cement putties for walls, when dried, they only become stronger, but over time they lose their elasticity, which can lead to the appearance of microcracks. The price for this type of putty starts from about 200 rubles/bag (25 kg).
  3. Polymer: have a lot of advantages: they perfectly resist moisture, do not shrink, and allow you to achieve High Quality treated surfaces. The only disadvantage here can be considered the high cost - starting from 290 rubles / bag (20 kg).
  4. Leveling: designed for leveling walls after applying plaster. They have a high grain size, good strength and excellent adhesion to the surface. Recommended layer thickness is from 3 to 20 mm. Price: from 230 rub./bag (20kg).
  5. To get perfect smooth surface and eliminating small flaws after leveling the walls, use finishing mixtures. They are inferior in strength to leveling putties. Applying them is not difficult. Recommended layer up to 4mm. Cost from 280 rubles/bag (20kg).
  6. Universal mixtures combine the properties of finishing and leveling wall putty, but at the same time cost more - from 320 rubles/bag (20 kg). They are used on surfaces with minor imperfections, because... The quality is somewhat inferior to both types.

In addition to the composition putties are divided into leveling, finishing (for example, for last stage putty) and universal.

Putties are available in dry form, as well as in the form of ready-made mixtures. Dry putties last much longer and are much cheaper than ready-made mixtures.

They are produced in special bags. Their preparation is not labor-intensive: the powder is simply diluted with water using a special mixer in accordance with the instructions on the package. Of course, use ready-made composition much more convenient. However, if the applied layer is less than 2 mm, then such mixtures cannot be used. They also shrink a lot. Ready-made putty compositions are produced in special plastic buckets.

Which putty should I choose to putty the walls?

When asked which putty to choose for walls under wallpaper, we can say that when choosing putty you should take into account the working conditions, the quality of the surface being treated and the desired result. To purchase quality material, you should make purchases in branded construction stores.

You shouldn’t go to all sorts of markets to save money. This is where the risk of purchasing counterfeit products is high. A simple tip when choosing putty: you should pay attention to the packaging date. It is applied with precision down to the second. If you notice that the entire batch is packed in an instant, then most likely it is better to refuse such a purchase.

In general, the shelf life of putty is from 6 to 12 months in dry rooms at room temperature. After the expiration date, the putty loses its properties - it stops setting quickly. When purchasing, you should pay attention not only to the date of manufacture, but also to the integrity of the packaging. Bags with dry mixture should not be damaged, and buckets with ready-made solution should be tightly closed.

Scheme of working with a grinding stone

Video instruction

Instructions: how to putty the walls yourself

To putty walls with your own hands, you will need the following set of tools:

  1. A drill with a “mixer” attachment and a container for diluting the composition (required when using a dry mixture).
  2. Set of spatulas: small, large, angled. When working, you have to deal with different areas of surfaces - each of them has its own spatula. Spatulas are available in sizes 20mm, 40, 60, 80, 100, 200, 300, 400, 600, 800mm. Narrow ones up to 80mm are used for hard-to-reach places. Spatulas with a width of 80 and 100 mm are called stacking spatulas - they are used to take the mixture out of the bucket and apply it to a working spatula. Spatulas with a width of 200 and 300 mm are used to level out irregularities that are small in width and length. Wider spatulas are used to level highly curved surfaces.
  3. Rollers or brushes. They are necessary for priming walls for putty. The primer should not be skipped, as this improves the adhesion of the mixture to the surface and improves the quality of work.
  4. The rule is to need it in places where putty is applied in a thick layer. Long metal rule convenient when leveling thick layers of putty from walls. The rules come in different lengths - 1m, 1.5m, 2m, 3m. The optimal rule is 2m long. However, it is better to choose a convenient size of the rule individually.
  5. A level for installing test beacons (as for) before applying starting putty to the walls. Levels range in length from 20cm to 2.5m. For domestic purposes, it is not necessary to buy the largest one; a level of 0.5 m to 1 m is quite sufficient.
  6. Sandpaper - to obtain a perfectly smooth surface. It is better to purchase sandpapers with a grain size from 60 to 100. Sandpaper 60 is suitable for the basic stage (you should not take less than 60, as it will be too rough), and fine sandpaper 100 for grouting the finishing layer (skin above 100 will become heavily clogged with dust). It is more convenient to grout the walls after puttying using a manual sander.

Preparing the wall surface

Falling layers of plaster should be removed

Before applying putty to the walls under the wallpaper, you should prepare the surface to be treated. It must be clean without any stains of grease, soot, paint, etc. Falling layers of plaster should be removed. It is strictly not recommended to start work if the walls or ceiling are frozen.

Before puttingty walls, it is necessary to apply a primer to improve adhesion. One coat of primer is enough.

Starting putty of the wall surface

Plastering is done using special beacons, which help to apply the solution more evenly.

Starting putty is performed using coarse material (starting putty). This material is convenient to use when large differences walls to hide irregularities, remove grooves and holes. The thickness of such a layer, applied at a time, can be up to 1.5 cm. To apply subsequent layers, you must wait until the previous one has dried.

If the differences in wall levels are more than 5 cm, then in this case, before applying the putty, the walls are plastered. Plastering is done using special beacons, which help to apply the solution more evenly. Before applying plaster, the walls are primed with a special solution, and before each layer of plaster they are additionally sprayed with water. Apply the plaster with a special spatula with a sharp wave of the hand. For better adhesion with the subsequent layer, the first layer should be given a slight roughness. As a rule, all movements are performed from the bottom up. After applying the plaster, it is leveled according to the rule.

Often, a special painting mesh is used to obtain high results.

Often, a special painting mesh is used to obtain high results. It is mounted on the wall (read good article about), and putty (or plaster if necessary) is applied on top. In this case, the putty adheres better, and the surface becomes much stronger and smoother. The painting mesh is attached to the first layer of putty without waiting for it to dry. The prepared piece of mesh is pressed into the still wet layer of putty. After drying, a second layer of putty is applied. This way, the mesh remains in the middle of the leveling layer of putty. The tensile strength of such a layer increases significantly, which helps to avoid the appearance of cracks.

The finishing putty is applied in a very thin layer, eliminating only the smallest pores and cracks.

How to putty: final stage

After completing the starting stage, finishing putty must be applied to the wall. Its main goal is to make the surface perfectly smooth and beautiful. If starting putty was performed poorly, then using the finishing mixture will not be able to correct the situation. The finishing putty is applied in a very thin layer, eliminating only the smallest pores and cracks. Therefore, before finishing, you should achieve a perfectly flat surface.

To process smooth corners, use a corner spatula.

  1. When using a dry mixture, it is necessary to properly prepare the solution. It should be smooth and slightly stick to the spatula.
  2. Using a large spatula at an angle of 30°, apply the starting putty in small portions. The putty should be applied diagonally, overlapping each subsequent stroke to avoid transitions and bumps.
  3. To process smooth corners, use a corner spatula. First, use a small spatula to apply the mixture over the entire height of the corner. Then, using a corner spatula, level the surface of the corner.
  4. After the starting layer has completely dried, the finishing putty is applied using a small and large spatula. Using a small spatula, apply the mixture in small portions onto a large one and apply it evenly to the surface. Layer thickness is about 1.5 -2mm.
  5. After the putty has completely dried (this takes about 12 hours), you can begin finishing sanding with fine sandpaper.

To putty walls with your own hands, it is important to carry out all stages of the work efficiently and responsibly. In this case, you can get excellent result and save a lot of money on your work.

Good luck with your renovation!

If there is a need to update the premises in a home, many people think about the possibility of doing it themselves. In most cases, this requires properly treating the surfaces, painting them or. The editors of the site will help you navigate difficult repair issues. We will tell you how to putty walls correctly and share secrets the right technology applying working mixtures and presenting detailed instructions that will help beginners avoid mistakes.

Puttying is commonly understood as the process of treating wall surfaces. finishing materials immediately before gluing or painting. If the construction mixture is applied incorrectly, the result will be under any decorative coating unrepaired defects will appear - cracks, unevenness and pits.


After eliminating the existing defects, a smooth and at the same time even surface of the wall or ceiling is achieved using putty. For these purposes, materials are used for starting and finishing, which are dry mixtures of coarse and fine grinding.

It is easy to check the wall by applying a rule to it: if there are gaps, they are eliminated by applying a layer of putty. The spatula should be held at an angle of 25−30° relative to the wall. If you don’t know how to putty the walls under, you can choose a ready-made acrylic mixture and a medium facade spatula for these purposes. For final sanding dried up wall abrasive paper marked P-150, 180 is used.

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