Pipe for an iron stove in a bathhouse. What types of pipes are there for sauna stoves?

A properly installed chimney for a sauna stove ensures comfortable use of the sauna for a long time. But the main criterion when selecting a design and materials remains safety. Therefore, the selection and installation of a chimney must be given Special attention, not forgetting to consult with specialists.

Basic requirements for sauna stoves

A chimney for a sauna boiler not only removes combustion products from the room, but also provides optimal use fuel in a thermal unit. At the same time, a properly constructed channel for removing furnace gases should serve as a guarantee safe operation heating device. This factor is ensured not only by the correct selection of materials and chimney design, but also by the organization of the boiler room infrastructure. It must have sufficient supply and exhaust ventilation to ensure the supply of oxygen for combustion of the stove and the removal of combustion products or the gas itself that enters the room.

To remove flue gases from a bathhouse, an external wall chimney is often built, since it does not take up space in the room and provides better fire safety

Gas boilers are the safest to operate and cheap compared to other types of heating units. They do not give off the smell of burnt fuel and do not leave debris in the form of ash or slag.

Gas boilers are more economical and safe compared to thermal units using other types of fuel

Using gas boiler In the bath you need to follow some recommendations:

If there is no gas supply from the central line, you can use fuel from cylinders. They must be placed outdoors in a specially equipped cabinet.
For safe operation gas unit you need to use an automatic control system that will control the heating mode, as well as a gas analyzer in case of leakage.
The base made of refractory materials for the stove must be at least 10 centimeters larger than its external dimensions.
To install a gas pipeline, you need to use only steel or copper pipes.

How to choose a chimney for a bath

Chimneys used in heating systems can be divided into two main types according to their installation location:

External or wall. When using them, the pipe from the furnace outlet pipe is led out through the wall, and the vertical part runs along the outer main wall and is attached to it with brackets.
Internal. The vertical part of the chimney is discharged inside the building at the intersection of the ceilings and roof. Fireproof inserts are installed in the passage areas, which will be discussed below.

Each of the designs has its own advantages and disadvantages.

What types of chimneys are there?

Structurally, chimneys can be divided into the following main types.

Brick chimneys

These are the most ancient types of chimneys, which have not lost their relevance to the present day. They're pouring out ceramic bricks, the cross-section may vary in size, but the shape is always square or rectangular. This is the main disadvantage of brick pipes. The combustion products move through the smoke channel along a helical line, and the section corners are stagnant zones. In them, furnace gases move at low speed, which contributes to the settling of solid particles with the formation of soot. Features of brick chimneys:

The inner surface of a brick pipe is rough, and this also contributes to the formation of soot.
The outer part of the chimney, if there is no insulating layer on it, is exposed to moisture and wind, which leads to its destruction. Experts estimate the service life of a brick chimney to be 17–20 years.
To improve the operating conditions of a brick chimney, it is practiced to line it and install a metal or plastic pipe in the internal channel.
The construction of a brick pipe requires certain mason skills; not everyone can do this work correctly with their own hands.

The structure of a brick chimney has significant weight, so its installation requires a reliable foundation.

The outer part of the brick chimney is exposed to moisture, sun rays and large temperature changes, so it is advisable to protect it with finishing materials

Metal chimneys

For the manufacture of metal chimneys, single-layer or double-layer pipes are used. A black, galvanized or stainless steel sheet with a thickness of 0.4–1.2 millimeters can be used. The first of them burns out quickly, since sulfur dioxide is always present in the flue gases. Together with moisture, which is always present in combustion products, condensation results in the formation of an aggressive substance based on sulfuric acid, which destroys the walls of the pipe. A similar story happens with a galvanized pipe, because the protective layer of zinc is quickly damaged by condensate, and then everything happens in the same way as with a regular black steel pipe. The best material for the chimney is a product made of austenitic stainless steel. It is easy to distinguish it when purchasing using a magnet - it will not be attracted to it. If you are offered a stainless chimney, and its material reacts to a magnet, there may be no guile in this. It’s just that it’s stainless steel of the ferritic or semi-ferritic class, which is not resistant enough to aggressive environments.

A high-quality stainless pipe has a mirror surface along which condensate flows down, against the flow of furnace gases. At the bottom of such a channel you need to install a condensate collector with a tap. It needs to be cleaned periodically. The accumulation of soot on the walls of a stainless chimney occurs much more slowly.

A stainless steel chimney has smooth round walls, so soot forms much more slowly in it

Ceramic chimneys

Ceramic pipes are made from refractory clay in sections of 50 centimeters. The ends of each segment are formed for a tongue-and-groove connection.

Ceramic pipes last a very long time, because they practically do not react to the effects of aggressive chemical elements contained in the combustion products of heating oil

Ceramic pipes are mounted inside special expanded clay concrete blocks. Along their axis there is a hole for installing a chimney. The diameter of the hole in the block is 50–70 millimeters larger than the outer size of the pipe - a non-flammable heat insulator is placed in this gap, which is used as mineral or basalt wool. There are holes in the corners of the blocks for installing reinforcement bars that strengthen the structure.

IN expanded clay concrete blocks there are holes for installing chimney pipes, ventilation and reinforcement

A distinctive feature of ceramics is the inner surface High Quality, which also prevents the rapid accumulation of large amounts of condensation and soot. The material is chemically passive.

The disadvantages of such chimneys include their significant weight, which requires the construction of a foundation and the need for strictly vertical installation.

In some cases, asbestos-cement pipes are used for chimneys. They attract attention due to their low price and manufacturability of installation. But it is hardly possible to recommend them for a bath. At temperatures above 300 o C they are destroyed, and this process is explosive. In addition, there is evidence that the material releases asbestos fibers into the air, and this is unsafe for humans. In any case, in Europe such pipes are not used for chimneys.

The coaxial chimney is a “pipe-in-pipe” design. Wherein inner part is designed to remove flue gases, and the external one is to supply air to the furnace firebox. The inner pipe is attached to the outer pipe by three longitudinal ribs. Hot flue gases move through the chimney, creating a vacuum in the firebox. Thanks to this, air is sucked into the firebox through the outer pipe. At the same time, it heats up, activating gas combustion in the boiler furnace . Obviously, such a chimney device is only possible in gas heating appliances closed type . Thus, the boiler furnace is in no way connected with the room and the air in it always remains clean. As a result, the requirements for supply ventilation and the costs for it are reduced.

The coaxial chimney is very convenient and easy to install, but it can only be used with closed boilers

Considering the above data, it is obvious that the best choice for a chimney for a bathhouse would be stainless pipes, especially since they are produced specifically for this purpose and are equipped with all the necessary additional elements.

You can find it on sale a large assortment various adapters, elbows, diverters and fasteners for the manufacture of a stainless steel chimney in any configuration

Installing a chimney in a bathhouse

Before you begin installing a smoke exhaust duct from a gas sauna stove, you need to draw up a project and coordinate it with qualified specialist. All comments made must be taken into account before purchasing materials.

Installation of a chimney made of stainless steel pipes in a bathhouse

It begins with the installation of a furnace or boiler at its permanent location. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the requirements of fire safety regulations. Next you need:

Install an adapter from the boiler to the chimney. It can be vertical or horizontal depending on the design of the heating unit.
Mount and secure a flat damper or internal damper to the pipe to regulate the draft in the chimney.
A rotary slide damper is usually installed at the very beginning of the chimney duct and allows you to regulate the draft during the combustion process
Connect the water heating tank pipe to the chimney pipe from the bottom and top sides. The heated gases pass through a pipe in the tank and heat the water needed for internal consumption in the bathhouse. The water tank is attached to the building structure in accordance with the design.
Install a section of the chimney from the upper outlet of the tank to the ceiling. You need to cut an opening in it three times the diameter of the pipe. An asbestos sheet 6–20 millimeters thick is attached to the ceiling of the room with the stove, and on top of it is a stainless steel sheet of the same size. The choice of material is due to the low thermal conductivity of stainless steel. The sheet must be secured with self-tapping screws in increments of 8–10 centimeters. Emptiness in the opening with attic space filled with insulation - basalt wool and covered from the attic side with the same stainless steel sheet as below, with a lining made of sheet asbestos.
An opening 3 times larger than the diameter of the pipe is cut out in the ceiling, filled with non-flammable insulation and closed on both sides with asbestos and stainless steel plugs
Extend the chimney in successive sections (they come in lengths of 50 and 100 centimeters) until the roofing pie is reached. Connecting pipes to each other inside the transition through the ceilings is not allowed.
In the same way, you need to cut an opening in the roofing pie and the finishing roof covering, and then bring the pipe out.
The height of the pipe from the burner to the upper end must be at least five meters. Its position relative to the ridge is determined by the following rules:
- the excess above the roof ridge is 50 cm if the pipe is located at a distance of up to 1.5 m from it;
- when the pipe exits at a distance of 1.5–3 m from the ridge, its upper part should be at the level of the highest point of the roof;
- if the pipe is located at a distance of more than three meters from the junction of the slopes, its upper end should be located at the level of an imaginary line drawn from the ridge at an angle of 10 o to the horizontal.
In order for the chimney to create good draft, its head must be at a certain height, which depends on the distance to the ridge
Opening in the roofing pie with outside on pitched roof must be protected with a special apron. Its design depends on the angle of inclination of the slope and the material of the roofing.
To eliminate the possibility of leakage at the intersection of the chimney with the roofing pie, a special apron is installed
Mount a protective cap or deflector on the upper end of the pipe.
If the roofing part of the chimney is more than 1 m long, it must be secured with guy wires using a special clamp with three brackets.

When the pipe passes through the room where the boiler is installed, single-wall pipes of the selected design are used; insulated double-layer pipes must be installed in the attic and on the outside or thermal insulation of single-layer pipes must be performed. To switch from single-wall pipes to double-wall pipes (sandwich pipes), there is a special adapter.

Video: how to install an internal stainless steel chimney in a bathhouse

If it is decided to install an external chimney, the pipe is routed through the wall of the bathhouse, for which a hole is cut in it. The rules for fireproof sealing are the same as when passing through the ceiling. It must be taken into account that the length of the horizontal part of the pipe should not be more than one meter. If it is possible to arrange the outlet at an angle of 45 degrees, this solution should be preferred.

The next steps are:

Install a tee, the upper branch of which is the place for connecting the vertical part of the chimney, and the condensate collector is connected to the lower one.
At the point where the chimney exits the wall, a tee with a condensate collector and a wall bracket are installed, which takes on the load of the vertical section of the structure
Assemble the vertical section of the chimney to the required level. As the height of the chimney increases, brackets are attached to the wall along which it is installed and the pipe is fixed to them.
It is advisable to install brackets for attaching the chimney to the wall at the junction of pipe sections
Install a cap or deflector at the upper end of the pipe.

To install a chimney inside the boiler room, single-wall pipes are used; for exhaust through the wall, double-wall sections are connected using an adapter. The length of the sections is 50 and 100 cm.

The joining of individual pipe sections is carried out “by smoke”, that is, from the bottom up onto specially manufactured seats. It is possible to seal the connections with a special high-temperature sealant.

Video: installation of a wall-mounted stainless steel chimney in a bathhouse

Installation of a coaxial chimney is very simple. You need to punch a hole in the wall, remove and secure the pipe, and then seal the opening.

Chimney insulation

The main unfavorable factor when using heating is the clogging of the chimney with soot. As a result, its cross section decreases and thrust decreases. But the main danger of soot lies in its ability to ignite and burn, releasing a very large amount of heat. At the same time they often light up building construction Houses.

Over time, it forms on the walls of the chimney thick layer soot, due to which the flow area of the channel narrows and the thrust is noticeably reduced

The reason for the formation of soot is the precipitation of condensation on the inner walls of chimneys, where solid combustion products, always contained in furnace gases, are deposited. Condensation is formed due to the temperature difference between the inner surface of the chimney and its outer part. Therefore, chimneys must be insulated regardless of the type of material from which they are made. Insulation can be performed as follows.

Covering the chimney with a layer of roll or slab insulation along the outer surface.
For insulation chimney it can be wrapped heat-insulating material and protect with an outer pipe of larger diameter - you get a homemade sandwich chimney
Installation protective coating for insulation made of foil or durable foil film. On the outer part of the pipe, the coating is installed from the bottom up in layers, fastening using metal tape or construction clamps.
Applying plaster to a brick chimney with the addition of reinforcing elements in the form of fiber shavings to the solution.
The easiest way to insulate a brick chimney is to plaster it
IN additional insulation there is no need for ceramic chimneys, since they are installed using a casing made of expanded clay concrete and an insulating layer basalt wool inside the block.

Features of operation of a sauna chimney

The use of gas thermal units for heating a bathhouse is the best option in terms of chimney maintenance. There are several reasons for this:

The temperature of the furnace gases in the chimney does not exceed 150 o C. With normal thermal insulation, especially if double-wall sandwich pipes are used, the temperature difference will be insignificant. The dew point (condensation temperature) is located above the end of the chimney. In this case, the amount of condensate inside the pipe is reduced to a minimum.
When burning gaseous fuel, there are very few solid particles in the smoke, therefore, little soot is formed.
The level of automation of modern heating units makes it possible to establish the optimal fuel combustion mode, in which the most complete combustion occurs.
Sauna stoves are turned on periodically, as a rule, no more than once a week, which increases the turnaround time.

Therefore, the main chimney maintenance operations are timely draining of condensate from the storage tank and periodic checking of the condition of the chimney twice a year - before the start of the heating season and after its end. Cleaning the chimney from soot is carried out as necessary and not after every inspection.

A wire brush is a reliable tool that allows you to clean your chimney efficiently.

How to check the draft in the chimney of a sauna stove

The presence of draft in the chimney can be checked in the simplest ways - by deflecting the flame of a candle or match brought to the air intake window of a gas water heater or stove. With normal draft, it is directed into the unit. Before checking, you need to fully open the gate or damper.

The draft is checked by the deflection of the flame of a match or candle

A strip of napkin or toilet paper is also suitable for checking the presence and direction of traction based on the degree of its deviation from the vertical. This method can be recommended when monitoring a gas unit; it is safe even if there is gas inside the device. Traction in coaxial chimneys is not controlled, so it occurs only when fuel burns, and its strength depends on the intensity of combustion.

Adjusting draft in a gas furnace

Signs of abnormal draft in the furnace are a change in the color of the flame and some other signs:

The appearance of a burning smell or unburned gas indicates that the draft has collapsed and the occurrence of reverse air movement in the chimney.
A color change to red indicates incomplete combustion of the fuel due to insufficient oxygen in the air. You will need to adjust the thrust in the direction of increasing it.
The white flame of the burner and the hum of air in the chimney indicate excessive draft in the chimney, which must be reduced by positioning the damper or turning the damper of the internal regulator.

The reason for the change in draft in the chimney may be weather conditions, in particular, changes in the strength and direction of the wind. In this case, the chimney is simply pinched by the force of the wind. Such phenomena can be eliminated by installing a weather vane deflector on the head of the chimney, which rotates in the wind and, due to its design, creates a vacuum above the chimney, improving draft.

The draft can be dramatically increased by special electrically driven devices installed on the chimney and forcibly creating a vacuum.

Photo gallery: methods of adjusting draft in the chimney of a sauna stove

You can regulate the draft using a homemade damper Torsion stabilizer automatically adjusts the cross-section of the chimney channel depending on the draft force Traction stabilizers can have different designs Device for automatic traction adjustment Automatic devices adjust traction depending on the readings of special sensors

How to clean soot from a chimney

Cleaning the deposits inside the pipe is the most unpleasant, but, unfortunately, inevitable moment during the operation of heating units. For certain types of furnaces it is produced more often or less often. Stainless steel chimneys need to be cleaned least often gas ovens, but this work is performed with special tools using cleaning agents that soften the soot layer. Cleaning agents for such chimneys must be gentle on the mirror-like inner surface of the pipes in order to preserve them most important quality- minimal condensate retention inside the pipes.

The chimney can be cleaned in two ways:

From above - in this case, ruffs or hedgehogs with a load are used. They are moved up and down chimney, achieving complete removal soot. In this case, the oven must be carefully covered. wet cloth to prevent soot from entering the room.
From below - the pipe is penetrated through the firebox, the tool is fixed on a flexible shaft. With this method, the brushes are given rotation. This is often done using a drive, such as an electric drill.

Cleaning is done mechanically from top to bottom with a soft ball-shaped brush. If the walls of the wall pipes are severely clogged with soot, you can dismantle them and clean each section separately.

Photo gallery: means for cleaning chimneys from soot

Do not use a wire brush to clean stainless steel pipes. A plastic brush cleans the chimney without damaging its surface A homemade tool made from scrap materials allows you to quickly clean the chimney To carry out the work yourself, you can buy ready set chimney cleaning tools of any shape

Video: cleaning the chimney of a sauna stove from soot

Hello, dear friends. A bathhouse is not only a place where a family can relax body and soul, but also, due to its purpose, a potentially fire-hazardous structure. this is only part of the heating system. In today’s article we will discuss how a bath pipe will help you avoid problems during operation of the stove.

It can be installed near the stove and on a pipe passing through the attic of the bathhouse. The arrangement is similar, but in the attic it is easier to fill the tank with water. Since the heat exchanger is not located in the steam compartment, it is possible to connect a water supply with a tap from the pump. Water will be supplied to the tank automatically.

Chimney materials

Before figuring out how to install a pipe in a bathhouse, it is important to find out which option will be preferable. The choice of materials for chimney depends on financial capabilities, technical specifications, fire safety requirements, as well as the aesthetic taste of the owners of the premises.

Brick

This material has been used in construction for a long time, and today it is as popular as before. Its advantages are:

wide choice (it’s easy to choose the option that suits your design);
attractive appearance;
excellent heat transfer qualities;
resistance to high temperatures;
relatively low price, although there are cheaper options.

This material has a number of disadvantages: the risk of condensation accumulation, fragility, and the need to build a foundation.

Steel

When choosing a chimney for a bathhouse, many people prefer metal structures. They come in black iron or stainless steel. Such an option - optimal solution due to the following advantages:

aesthetic appearance;
long service life;
ease of installation;
different prices for any wallet;
light weight (no need to build a foundation);
variety of designs.

They are also often used to line brick chimneys.

Ceramics

Ceramic pipes tolerate high temperatures well, are not exposed to alkalis, acids, and are not afraid of corrosion.

Soot and dust do not accumulate on the smooth outer and inner contours. However, this is a very expensive material, so it is not widespread in our country.

Glass

This is quite exotic and unusual, but the most effective option for a sauna stove. Glass is not afraid of corrosion, it is not only easy to clean, but also does not collect soot and dirt on the walls. It is not afraid of moisture, so a glass chimney is the safest and most reliable. Its installation is complex and requires professionalism. Another disadvantage is the extremely high cost of the system.

Sandwich pipe for sauna stove

The design consists of two pipes of different diameters, and the gap between them is filled with insulation that can withstand high temperatures. If you plan to install the structure yourself, then as thermal insulation material It is better to choose expanded clay, asbestos or mineral (basalt) wool.

If you purchase ready-made sandwich pipes for a bathhouse, the work can be done much faster and easier.

Which ones are better to use for a bath?

All of the pipe options discussed above are suitable for a bathhouse. They do not emit harmful substances and are not destroyed by high temperatures Oh. Which chimney is better? Glass and ceramic. But most often they use an ordinary steel pipe.

It is also worth mentioning that asbestos-cement or concrete pipes cannot be used, as they do not meet existing standards, as well as safety requirements.

Correct design of external and internal chimneys

How to make a smoke exhaust system correctly.

Modern modules made of stainless steel or ceramics allow you to carry out the installation process yourself. The main thing is to comply with the necessary requirements:

good draft in the system (if the design is not hermetically sealed and incorrect, a reverse draft will be created, which is dangerous to life and health);
ensuring the safe operation of the chimney, all nuances must be taken into account during installation;
aesthetic appearance (although this is not a matter of primary importance, the external and internal appearance of the house depends on it);
durability of operation

In a proper air duct, soot and condensation should not accumulate on the outer and inner surfaces. Nice chimney has low thermal conductivity. There are also requirements for the shape and cross-section of the system. It should not be less than that of the boiler or furnace.

The round channel is considered the best. It is easy to clean, the air escapes freely. An apron is mounted on the roof, serving as protection against precipitation.

System design

Before presenting a step-by-step guide to equipping a chimney with your own hands in a bathhouse, let’s note the main points of the device:

correct choice of pipe diameter and design shape;
optimal placement location (closer to the inner wall of the bathhouse, this will ensure good thermal insulation);
chimney height (at least 4.5 meters);
the pipe must rise above the roof by at least 50 cm;
the junction with the roof is carefully insulated;
a valve (gate) must be installed in the system, which will allow you to regulate the draft;
the wall next to the chimney is protected with non-combustible materials;
the outer part of the structure is whitened or painted, then if the seal is broken in the places where smoke passes through, the paint will become darker.

How to vent a chimney through the ceiling

Arrangement of the passage of the chimney through the ceiling is a crucial moment. Fires often occur due to improper installation. According to safety rules, direct contact must be avoided hot pipe with flammable materials. For this purpose, a special unit is constructed in the form of a box made of non-flammable galvanized or stainless metal.

All work must be performed in accordance with regulations.

You can make such a unit yourself. The dimensions of the iron sheet must exceed the size of the cutout for the pipe.

How to mount a wall crossing

If outer wall Since the bathhouse is made of brick or other non-combustible material, installation of the passage hole is easy. A round through hole is cut out, into which a metal sleeve is then inserted.

You can do without it if the opening is drilled perfectly round under outer size sandwich. It will also not be possible to install a sleeve when the chimney passes through the wall at an angle other than 90°.

There should be no joints in the thickness of the wall. A pipe is inserted into the hole, and the space around it is filled with a fire-resistant seal. All that remains is to install and attach it to the vertical section. If the bathhouse is built of wood, then you should follow the same rules as when installing a ceiling-passage assembly.

How to choose the size and shape of a chimney

The most optimal pipe configuration for a chimney is a cylinder. This shape will not create obstacles for smoke to escape and less soot will be deposited on the walls.

The external design, in addition to practical, has a decorative value. It is done in such a way as not to disrupt the overall design of the structure.

Pipe diameter

The cross-section of the chimney depends on the power of the stove and is strictly specified in SNiPs. Below are written the main dimensions of the exhaust vent depending on the power of the oven:

140×140 mm for furnaces up to 3.5 kW;
140×200 mm for furnaces 3.5 - 5.2 kW;
140×270 mm for furnaces 5.2 - 7.2 kW.

The diameter should not be less than the outlet of the furnace or boiler.

Pipe height

The height of the chimney is calculated taking into account the height of the building, the type of roof, and the size of neighboring buildings. When designing, it is especially important to take into account the height of the pipe located above the roof of the building. So, according to SNiPs, it should rise above the roof no less than:

0.5 m above the ridge when the pipe is located at a distance of up to 1.5 m from the ridge below;
level or slightly above the ridge, if it is located at a distance of 1.5 - 3 m from the ridge downwards;
at a distance of more than 3 m from the ridge, the chimney pipe should be at the same level or slightly higher than a line drawn down from the ridge, at an angle of 10° to the horizontal;
ventilation duct height for flat roofs is 1 m;
if the pipe is 1.5 m above the roof level, it must be additionally secured with guy wires.

The pipe joints should not fall into the space between the ceiling and the roof. They are fastened with clamps and coated with sealant. Outer pipe must exactly match the calculated size, otherwise the traction will be poor.

Do-it-yourself smoke exhaust device

How to make a chimney without the help of specialists? Before taking on such a complex job, consider all the pros and cons of such an installation. After all, from proper operation system will depend on the safety of bathhouse visitors!

When starting to install a pipe in a bathhouse, first of all you need to buy or make all the elements of the chimney structure yourself. You can make a pipe with your own hands only with a special tool and experience in this matter. It is much easier to buy ready-made parts and assemble the entire system from them. This kind of work can be done by anyone who knows how and loves to do everything. construction works on one's own.

What tools and materials will be needed

For installation, prepare the following tool:

jigsaw;
chisel;
Bulgarian;
screwdriver;
screwdriver;
level;
roulette.

Before assembling the structure, you will need the following materials:

clamps for securing joints;
a head that serves as protection from precipitation;
elements for creating a transition through the ceiling and roof structure;
insulation materials;
tees and adapters necessary to organize corners in the smoke path.

Before leading the bathhouse pipe through the roof or wall, also prepare in advance metal protective sheets that cover part of the wall and ceiling from exposure to high temperatures.

Chimney installation sequence

Think over the installation diagram in advance. It will take place in several stages. First of all, holes are made in the ceiling and roof equal to the size of the pipe plus ten centimeters.

If the distance between the attic floor and the roof is more than 1.5 meters, then a unloading unit is installed on the attic floor.

Preparing holes for passage

The types of chimney passages can be as follows: through a wall, ceiling, roof. When installing metal, ceramic or sandwich pipes, first prepare a passage hole. The place where it should pass through the roof will be determined. The size corresponding to the installation of the roof trim is marked, and an opening is cut out in the ceiling with inside roofs.

If necessary, beams are laid that will strengthen the structure and support the ceiling as well as the roof. Then the passage units are installed outside (box in the ceiling).

Chimney protection box

This unit is designed to lead the chimney through the roof or ceiling. Most often, galvanized iron, stainless steel, copper and profiled sheets are used to make boxes.

These materials have properties such as resistance to increased moisture, temperature changes and the absence of corrosive processes, as well as a long service life. A protective box is made according to dimensions that are removed from the finished chimney or according to pre-prepared drawings.

How to clean a chimney

After answering the questions about how to properly install a smoke exhaust structure and what materials are available, we will figure out how to care for the chimney. If firewood is supplied to your bathhouse or sauna, fuel briquettes, coal or other types solid fuel, then you will need to clean the chimney from time to time. There are two effective ways removing scale from pipes.

Mechanical cleaning with a brush is an old and reliable method. It requires certain knowledge, time, strength and special tools. For a brick chimney it is better to take a steel brush, and for a metal one - a plastic one.
Cleaning with chemicals. There are two types of substances - for prevention (powdered additive to firewood) and “chimney sweep” logs. It contains a large dose of active substances, which, when burned, remove all accumulated soot.

Common mistakes during construction

To avoid poor draft, and even fumes or fire, you need to take into account the advice of experts:

The optimal shape for a chimney is a circle. The oddly shaped structure will collect more soot and also serve as a barrier to smoke.
At the design stage, observe the requirements for horizontal sections of the chimney. Their length should not be more than 1 meter.
Do not use an old brick chimney for a bath; it is better to insert a sleeve made of acid-resistant material into it.
You should not save on the pipe; its length should correspond to the starting design, taking into account the roof configuration. The size should be optimal, not longer and not shorter.
Choosing what to make from good hood, do not opt for cheap asbestos-cement products.
Do not risk connecting two chimneys into one yourself or changing the size of an existing system.

Not a single sauna stove can do without the correct equipment of all its parts and departments. The chimney structure in a bathhouse is somewhat different from the chimney system heating stove for home. Therefore, in order to achieve the greatest efficiency of the functions of a sauna stove, it is very important to take into account all the nuances of the construction of not only the firebox and heater, but also the chimney.

Installation of a chimney in a bathhouse for a wood-burning stove

It should immediately be noted that the construction of this main bath structure would be better done experienced master, but if you want to try your hand, you need to carefully understand all the intricacies. Not only how quickly and well the sauna room warms up, but also its fire safety depends on a properly constructed chimney.

Basically, when building a sauna stove, two types of chimney are used - root and mounted.

The main chimneys are built separately, next to the stove, and are connected to it with a special pipe, which discharges the smoke into the main channel. This type can even be used for two or three ovens. Naturally, in this case he must have a corresponding inner diameter, and pipes from different heating devices mounted at different heights.

Chimney systems with a mounted pipe differ from the main ones in that they are installed directly on the stove pipe and are led outside through the wall or roof. IN bath buildings owners often prefer mounted chimneys.

Chimneys can also be divided into external and internal.

The first ones are brought out through the wall, and the main part of them runs along the street, where it is fixed to the wall surface using brackets. But it must be said right away that external view the chimney is not suitable for a bathhouse, as it cools down faster, no matter how well it is insulated. Namely, for a bathhouse, losing excess heat is an unforgivable luxury.

Internal chimney systems are installed more often, so it is worth learning more about them.

A chimney passing indoors through the ceiling

One of the main advantages of the internal chimney is its maximum verticality, which contributes to good draft. However, it certainly has its drawbacks:

— to install it in a finished building, you need to cut (punch) holes in the ceiling and roof, as well as make reliable waterproofing. In addition, you will have to work hard to insulate the passage in the ceiling with heat-resistant material;

- a chimney passing outside is much easier to repair than an internal one.

But despite the possible disadvantages, the heat released into the room is much more important for the bathhouse, so it is better not to be lazy and spend it inside so as not to lose the heat of the bathhouse and not burn excess fuel.

Materials and features of manufacturing a chimney for a wood-burning stove

The choice of material for the chimney will depend on what kind of stove is installed in the bathhouse.

A brick stove can be equipped with a chimney, also made of brick, metal or made of asbestos-cement.
The metal version of the stove with an equipped heater is usually supplemented with the same chimney (less often - made of asbestos cement). But most often it's — metal pipes with a layer of insulation, the so-called sandwich chimneys.

Asbestos concrete The option of chimneys, especially for sauna stoves, is undesirable for the most important reason - the porosity of the material. Due to the structural features of asbestos cement, condensate remains on the channel walls for long time or even absorbed into them, which leads to the destruction of the material. Such a pipe may burst or, after burning out, even explode. To reduce the formation of condensate, the asbestos-cement pipe is covered with thermal insulation and lined with brickwork.

Whatever material the chimney pipe is made of, its parts must be tightly connected to each other, and the brickwork must not have any cracks. These flaws allow cold air to get inside, which not only reduces draft, but also contributes to the formation of condensation.

The diameter of the pipe must also be calculated correctly - if it is larger than necessary, the smoke rising through it will quickly cool, which also contributes to the formation of condensation.

It is worth paying special attention to the choice of the thickness of the chimney pipe of the bathhouse. The internal version of the chimney must have walls of at least 12 cm, and the external one - 38-40 cm thick. This will also prevent rapid cooling, and therefore moisture condensation.

The most important factor for this section of the furnace is the ideal smoothness of the inner walls of the pipe. It will provide the necessary traction, which means that soot will not be deposited on the walls in large quantities. Porous surfaces can accumulate a large amount of soot, from which the chimney will have to be cleaned quite often. If a brick chimney pipe is built, then in the attic it is rubbed with clay mortar and whitewashed. Thanks to such precautions, if cracks or other defects appear in the masonry, they can be immediately detected, since black smoke will seep through the cracks in the grout, and it will be clearly visible on the whitewash. This is a visual signal that urgent repairs are needed.

Sometimes a combined chimney design is used for sauna stoves. In this case, its lower part is built of brick, and the upper part, passing through the floors and roof, is made of a modern sandwich pipe.

This option allows you to create neat small passages, which will be easier to decorate with heat-resistant material.

Safety precautions when installing a chimney

It is imperative to ensure high fire safety of the chimney for the bathhouse. To do this, as mentioned above, pay special attention to the tightness of the connections of individual parts of the pipe, as well as to the cutting when the chimney passes through the ceilings and roof.

In places where the pipe will pass through the ceiling, it is necessary to insulate it from wooden elements heat-resistant material - it can be asbestos, mineral wool, sand or expanded clay.

To do this, on the ceiling in place chimney passage a metal panel with a hole is fixed through which the pipe will be passed.
A kind of box is installed on the attic side, which should be 10-15 centimeters higher than the attic floor. An insulating material is placed or poured into it, which will protect the wooden floor from the high temperatures of the chimney pipe. The pipe must be at least 25 centimeters from combustible floor materials.

It is very important to arrange thermal insulating protection not only in the ceiling, but also on the wooden wall of the bathhouse. Basically, bathhouse buildings are built from pine, and its wood is quite resinous and can easily overheat and even burn from the high temperatures of a chimney passing nearby. Therefore, the wall must be protected using non-combustible material - this can be special plasterboard, asbestos, masonry, foil mineral wool or a combined option.

After passing through the attic, the smoke exhaust duct is discharged through the roof and rises above it by at least one and a half meters.
Around the chimney, when passing through roof covering, waterproofing is installed, which will protect the roof sheathing from moisture, and therefore from the appearance of mold and destruction.

A special protective mushroom is put on top of the pipe head and a spark arrester is installed.

Water tank

In the smoke exhaust system of the bathhouse, built from metal sandwich tube, sometimes a metal tank is built in to heat water, inside which there is uninsulated part chimney. Tanks can have different volumes - this is Firstly, will depend on the power of the selected furnace.

When choosing this chimney accessory, it is best to pay attention to a stainless steel product that will serve long term. Naturally, you need to focus on the diameter of the chimney pipe to which the tank will be attached. It is better to purchase the entire set as a set so that you do not have to disassemble an already assembled structure.

The water tank has pipes onto which sections of the chimney pipes are placed. They must fit tightly together, otherwise the draft will decrease and carbon monoxide may enter the room.

A metal water tank is also built into the structure of a brick chimney. In this case, hot air from the furnace passing next to it heats the water poured into the tank. When building in a container, you need to provide a place in the chimney wall where there will be a tap and a pipe with a tap for filling the tank.

Diagram of a sauna chimney

This diagram clearly shows all the above-described sections of the smoke exhaust system of a sauna stove.

It is worth noting that a sauna stove with its firebox usually faces another room - dressing room. This is provided so that there is no risk of getting burned during washing, and so that the bathhouse attendant has the opportunity to constantly add firewood to the firebox.

Directly in the bathhouse there is a stove with a metal sheathing, which encloses the hot walls and is 10-15 centimeters away from them. Pebble stones are placed at this distance, which, when heated, give off heat to the room, and if you want to get steam, splash on them plain water or infusion of fragrant herbs. In this embodiment, the chimney and the tank installed on it are also located in the bathhouse.

The figure also shows how the chimney should pass through the ceilings and roof and how to ensure complete safety of its operation.

Relying on this diagram, you can easily install a chimney yourself if you strictly follow all the norms, rules, sizes and volumes of insulating materials.

Video: an interesting option for installing a chimney in a bathhouse

All work - both on the construction of the stove and on the installation of its smoke exhaust system - must be carried out with all responsibility and accuracy. It must be remembered that not only the safety of the bathhouse itself, but also the lives of the people using it will depend on the approach to this issue.

Correct design pipes for smoke removal will improve the quality of operation of the bathhouse. Such a device will remove smoke in a timely manner and will prevent the stove from cooling down too quickly. You can construct the correct chimney with your own hands. Let's look at the features of the device and its correct installation.

Peculiarities

Work on the installation of a chimney cannot be started without knowledge of the design features. For example, each sauna stove manufacturer recommends its own chimney diameter and height. Technical indicators require maximum compliance with certain requirements. The operation of the device will not be better if the thrust is stronger than the required standards.

With strong draft, hot gases will not have time to heat the stove; they will evaporate into the chimney. If there is insufficient draft, there will be little oxygen present in the combustion chamber. The room will be filled with smoke, which will lead to an uncomfortable stay in the bathhouse and the possibility of carbon monoxide poisoning.

Traction – important indicator for a chimney that reflects the movement of smoke inside the structure.

The air in the chimney moves from bottom to top. To check the correct direction of movement, use a candle or a lit sheet of paper, which must be brought to the combustion chamber. The fire should be drawn in. If the chimney is installed incorrectly, backdraft often occurs. The main consequence of this phenomenon is the unpleasant smell of smoke and burning indoors. Smoke and fumes have a bad effect on people's health, wall coverings, ceilings and room furniture.

An ideal chimney should be strictly horizontal. However, the construction of such a structure is not always possible. If the chimney requires a change in direction, so-called elbows are used. Modern manufacturers offer a huge selection of devices, differing in the ratio of angles and rotations. The presence of elbows in the chimney complicates its cleaning. Therefore, it is recommended, if possible, to arrange horizontal design use this option.

Another feature sauna chimney is the ability to install the structure inside and outside the building. Each option has its own advantages and disadvantages. It is believed that the external chimney is less fire hazardous in comparison with the internal structure. It is easier to install, secure and carry out subsequent cleaning. The main disadvantage of an external chimney is large heat losses.

If the chimney is internal, the concept of heat loss is automatically excluded. However, the installation of this structure is more complicated. In addition, this design is not entirely fireproof. The external and internal chimneys will have fewer disadvantages if modern materials are used in the work. The characteristics of the raw materials and elements used must correspond to the characteristics of the bath. It is necessary to take into account the temperature in the room, sanitary standards, and the structure of the bathhouse itself (preferably the presence of wooden materials).

Kinds

Options for chimney designs are selected depending on the material used to build the bathhouse. All elements of the device can be purchased ready-made or built independently. Until recently, the main material of the chimney was brick. It has ideal characteristics, durability, and fire safety.

To build a brick pipe, special knowledge and skills are required. This option is not suitable for every bath. Without a lack of practical experience in laying brick pipes correct chimney almost impossible to build. The brick structure has characteristic rough areas, which cause soot deposits in the chimney, which leads to rapid clogging of the structure. In addition, soot deposits can lead to sparks when lighting the stove, which is unsafe.

Modern masters More often they choose a stainless steel chimney for a sauna stove. The main advantage of such a device is quick installation. In addition, metal chimneys are free of problems that can arise in a brick stove structure. Stainless steel chimneys are often of sandwich construction. A straight iron chimney for a bathhouse is easy to install with your own hands.

The inner part of the steel pipe has a smooth surface. Missing edges and roughness contribute to better smoke removal from the stove. But with temperature changes, condensation appears on the steel pipe. When the pipe is closed with thermal insulation, this phenomenon does not occur. It is worth remembering this effect when organizing the arrangement of the structure with your own hands.

Another type of chimney for sauna stoves is ceramic. This design is fire resistant and reliable. Modern ceramic pipes are suitable for solid fuel boilers, as well as devices operating on liquid fuel.

The main differences between these structures and other types:

universal system (possibility of selecting different diameters);
ease of chimney processing even with a side passage;
water and vapor tightness (availability for stoves with heaters);
mechanical strength.

Varieties of ceramic, metal models and brick products imply the mandatory presence in the designs of a base, a container for accumulating condensate, and a tee for cleaning and inspection.

The bases for any chimneys must be perfectly level and strictly horizontal.

Structural design options

Arrangement options require calculations that take into account the amount of incoming air that ensures fuel combustion. There are complex and simplified methods of calculation.

For the first calculation we need optimal characteristics bath chimney:

gas temperature at the outlet of the pipe +120;
minimum movement speed – about 2m/s;
recommended length – 5 meters;
combustible fuel with one addition to the combustion chamber - 10 kg/h.

To calculate the diameter of the chimney there is a formula: D=√ (2&4xVr/3.14x2)

Here D is the pipe diameter, and Vr is the amount of air.

The geometry of the section may be involved in calculating the height of the chimney. A graph is drawn up for this calculation. The graphical calculation involves the furnace area and the pipe area. The first value must be divided by the second and determine the percentage.

With a cross section of 10%, the minimum height of the chimney will be:

7 m. – with a round pipe;
9 m. – with a square pipe;
11 m. – with a rectangular pipe.

All values are valid when constructing a straight chimney. In most cases, chimneys require rotating structures that reduce the draft force. To prevent this, when calculating a chimney with curvatures, the resulting diameter can be slightly increased. If the stove for the bath is purchased, you can completely skip the step of calculating the diameter of the chimney. All necessary parameters for chimneys are usually indicated by the manufacturer in the instructions for the specific model.

Internal values pipes are calculated taking into account the power of the stove. Standard bath pipe equal to 150-200 mm. It is worth considering that with an increased size of the structure, heat will not be retained in the oven. With a small cross-section there will not be the necessary traction. When constructing a prefabricated structure, it should be taken into account that the diameter of the pipe sections should not be less than that of the outlet part of the stove.

The exact value of the pipe height is interconnected with the location of the structure on the roof. If the pipe is in the middle of the slope, the structure must be raised above the ridge to a height of half a meter. This parameter is closely related to the location of the oven inside. If there is more than one stove in the bathhouse, each of them must be equipped with its own chimney system. Otherwise, normal traction force will not be achieved.

To maintain heat in the steam room, the chimney should be placed closer to the inner wall. This is where traction will be most effective. If this is not possible, the walls must be solid and solid. At thin walls You can never wait for the heat inside the bathhouse.

Elements of the chimney system

Standard kits include:

cylindrical pipes or panels;
adapters;
tees;
fastening elements (brackets and clamps);
pipes;
end elements of various shapes;
tap-off elements.

In some cases, additional components are applicable. When assembling any chimney, it is important to be guided by building regulations and fire safety requirements. All components of the pipe that come into contact with flames or escaping gases must be made of sheet steel with fire-resistant characteristics. Equivalent similar materials are acceptable for use.

In production, chimney design elements are usually divided into two groups. The first of them includes double pipes, sandwich panels. The elements include an outer and an inner pipe with different diameters. They are insulated from each other with thermal insulation non-flammable characteristics. This design provides faster and better heating. This causes the temperature to rise above the dew point in a short time, which reduces the amount of condensation that often causes corrosion.

Elements of the first group are used in ventilation and smoke channels, which pass through the unheated parts of the bathhouse (for example, through the attic). This design is applicable for the external arrangement of the chimney. Second-order verticals that do not come into contact with flames and gases are acceptable from a galvanized base or stainless steel. The second group of chimney elements is usually single-circuit, it has a diameter from 80 to 400 mm.

Typically, stainless steel is acceptable for chimney installations in the absence of insulation. It has a smooth surface to the touch.

Special elements allow you to assemble structures that are unlimited in height, location and method of installation, these include:

wall supports;
installation sites;
gates;
bends;
telescopic brackets;
clamps, spark arrestor, heat exchanger.

During installation, double pipes must not be used as initial element designs.

The initial part installed on the outlet of the stove must be a single pipe with an allowable length of up to a meter and a metal thickness of 1.0 mm. An exception may be a stove with a water tank. To transition from one type of element to another, start sandwiches are used.

How to install?

For constructing a chimney with your own hands, the ideal material option is metal pipes. They reduce construction costs as well as labor costs. Installation of the chimney begins with the stove already installed in the bathhouse. An ordinary iron pipe is installed up to the first elbow. Proper fastening will be ensured by special structures with fire-resistant characteristics.

The initial part is connected to the stove pipe. Immediately install a gate valve, which will allow you to increase or decrease the traction force. Then a hole is made in the roof, which can be square. Next, assemble a metal box with through hole, corresponding to the size of the structure. Through it the chimney will be led to the attic. The height of the box should be greater than the ceiling finishing materials.

The box is securely fixed in the ceiling. The free space of the box is filled with mineral wool or expanded clay. In the attic, the structure is covered with a lid with a hole for the pipe. A sheet of heat-resistant material is fixed at the chimney passage point. The top pipe is protected with sheets mineral wool or asbestos. A special waterproof cuff is used as thermal insulation. The gaps can be treated with sealant.

Installation of an external metal chimney will require even less labor costs. The device requires the presence of a suitable hole in the wall (not in the roof). To turn the pipe from the furnace, a special elbow is purchased. There are different types of bends, choose the option that suits you.

The outlet is installed on the stove pipe. Then with outside install a tee. From it, the chimney is routed up along the wall, and down if necessary. To insulate the wall, it is correct to use a similar metal box filled with non-flammable bulk material.

Outside the building, the chimney must be fixed along its entire length. For this purpose, special holders are used. They can be made from available non-combustible materials.

When settling in external structure it is important that it rises 50-60 cm above the ridge: such an installation will guarantee good traction. To protect the chimney from small debris and rain, put a special umbrella on top.

Brick chimneys can be root or mounted. The best option for sauna stoves is the root one. If the stove is made of brick, then a structure made of the same material is attached. If the stove is made of metal, the brick chimney is connected to the pipe with a special pipe.

A brick chimney is arranged in the form of a square pillar, which is equipped with a well-shaped section. The cross-sectional size is related to the power of the sauna stove; it can be half a brick, a brick or two bricks. The basis for a brick structure is a foundation of the same thickness as the sauna stove, forming a single whole with it. The pipe is raised to the required height, where a valve is installed.

Immediately mark the location for the structure on the ceiling and roof. To maintain strict verticals, use a level. Start the work by laying the top part, for which there is already a point on the stove. Carry out the passages of brick rows evenly: any unevenness will impair the quality of the traction force. Control the placement of each row. For control, a tensioned thread between the corner of the starting row and the corner of the hole in the roof is suitable.

To protect the ceiling from fire, fluff is laid. Fluffing is an expansion of the outer walls of the pipe, which also ensures the stability of the structure. The widest point of the fluff should be located at the level of the ceiling material. After installation of the fluff is completed, the chimney is secured edged boards. Then the fluff narrows, the pipe is aligned to the initial value.

The outer perimeter of the chimney is laid out until the roofing material appears. A structure is being built at the top that will serve to drain rainwater. It has increased dimensions by about a quarter of a brick. Lay out the structure according to a similar principle with fluff. Its height is related to the angle of the roof.

Worth considering important nuance: the beginning of the structure should be located from the bottom of the roof and protrude above the top point in several rows.

Next, lay out the neck of the chimney. A metal cap can be installed on top of the structure. It is important to carefully seal the joints between the brick chimney and the roof structure. Choose work methods and additional elements depending on the type of roofing material. The methods of this work are different; decisions on the use of one method or another are made at the site of pipe installation.

It is difficult to install a brick chimney correctly with your own hands. In addition, the design is expensive. Therefore, you should not start bricklaying if you have only seen a brick and a trowel in a video. Modern materials allow you to construct simpler and efficient designs bath pipes.

After constructing the chimney, as well as some time of use, it is important to take care of regular cleaning of the system. The most proven way to clean a chimney is to use mechanical tools. Special brushes, weights, and in some cases a crowbar and a sledgehammer are suitable for this.

Working as a chimney sweep is a dirty job, so everything is taken out of the bathhouse in advance, the surfaces are covered with newspapers or film:

The simplest method is to use a special brush that can be used to clean the chimney. Simply insert the brush into the pipe, then gently push it upward until the resistance due to accumulated soot disappears. It should not be rotated around its axis, otherwise there is a risk that it will get stuck in the pipe and will have to be removed in parts.
Another effective method of cleaning a chimney is burning aspen wood. The method will help with a small amount of soot on the surface of the pipe. When burning aspen logs, a better traction force is created, which is capable of removing soot from the chimney.

Potato skins have similar properties. But to prepare required quantity material, you will have to come to grips with cleaning more than one kilogram of vegetables.
Modern methods of protecting pipes from soot using chemicals have become common in use. Modern drugs include special components that, when burned, carry away soot. The components can act as a soot separator; as a result, it will fall off the pipe walls itself.

It is believed that best time for cleaning the chimney - after rain. In a humid environment it is easier to maintain the pipe. Timely cleaning of pipes will be the key to high-quality combustion of firewood. This will keep the bath warm.

The smoke exhaust duct is a mandatory element of any bathhouse. It is responsible for the speed of warming up the steam room, the cleanliness of the air in it, fire safety. Therefore, it is necessary to approach the arrangement of the chimney as responsibly as possible.

Types of chimneys - making the right choice

Until recently, smoke exhaust pipes for baths were built exclusively from brick. There was simply no real alternative to this material. The brick is characterized by heat-accumulating and thermal insulating characteristics ideal for a steam room, long service life, maximum fire safety and excellent strength. But, unfortunately, build with your own hands brick pipe Maybe not every home craftsman. Considerable knowledge and skills are required, as well as practical experience in masonry.

In addition, smoke ducts from bricks contain corners and a rough inner surface. This contributes to the deposition of soot inside the pipe, which leads to clogging and, as a result, to a significant reduction in draft. If the chimney in a bathhouse is not periodically cleaned (and this, believe me, is not at all easy), after a while it becomes impossible to use, and sometimes even unsafe. There is a risk of soot deposits igniting from sparks when lighting the stove.

More modern metal chimneys do not have these problems. They are often manufactured in the form of sandwich structures or in the form of ordinary single-wall pipes. Such structures are easy to install with your own hands. Their internal surface is very smooth, due to which the smoke comes out in a turbulent directed flow. The disadvantage of metal chimneys is the high probability of condensation forming in them. This usually happens when using a bathhouse in winter time. The problem can be solved quite simply. It is necessary to select a pipe with a thick layer of thermal insulation. Then the risk of condensation will be minimal.

Having decided to make your own chimney in the bathhouse, you need to immediately choose the option of installing it. The path can be external and internal. Next we will talk about the advantages and installation rules metal pipe for both options.

Internal smoke exhaust duct - it will always be warm in the steam room!

With this installation method, the pipe is installed above the stove in the bathhouse, stretched to the ceiling, passed through the attic, and then through the roof. The height of the tract should correspond to the level of the roof ridge or be 0.5–1 m longer than it. In this case, high-quality traction is guaranteed. The main advantage of an internal chimney is that thermal energy, running through the pipe from the stove, heats both the steam room itself and the attic. As a result, the required temperature in the bath is achieved quickly and with low fuel consumption. The disadvantage of the internal design is the labor intensity and complexity of laying pipes through the roof and ceiling.

Correctly making a smoke exhaust tract indoors can be done by: simple algorithm. First, draw a diagram of the chimney, focusing on the dimensions of the steam room. Decide on the number and length of the required parts (turns, straight sections). Order the required metal elements for assembling a pipe in a hardware store. At the same time, purchase two sheets of metal with holes in the middle. You will place these products on the floor of the attic and on the ceiling in the bathhouse (from below). The diameter of the holes must correspond to the cross-section of the pipe used. By the way, it should be chosen as wisely as possible.

The pipe should have a diameter (internal) within 15–20 cm. A design with a smaller cross-section will not provide the necessary traction. If we take a pipe from large diameter, thermal energy will leave the stove very quickly and the room will not warm up well. The recommended height of the metal smoke exhaust duct is 5 m. Another piece of advice. Choose a pipe with a wall thickness of 1–1.2 mm. This product will serve you for a really long time.

Additionally, you will need to prepare a rubber seal (you will put it on the duct after the pipe is installed on the roof) and sealant for high-quality waterproofing of the structure. Step by step guide instructions for installing a metal chimney in a bathhouse are given in the next section.

We lay the pipe from the inside - labor-intensive, but reliable

The instructions for installing the internal smoke exhaust duct will be relatively simple, since the entire system is performed almost completely vertically. You need to assemble the chimney by placing its individual elements on top of each other. Moreover, if an ordinary pipe is installed, the assembly is carried out “by smoke” - the higher one is put on the lower part. But when using a sandwich system, installation is done “by condensate” from the inside and “by smoke” from the outside.

Important details:

1. If the stove and chimney are located dangerously close to wooden walls, it is advisable to attach several layers of heat-resistant products (for example, asbestos slabs) to the walls. Then they will never catch fire from excessive overheating.
2. The joints between individual parts of the chimney should not be at the roof and attic floor levels.
3. The connection areas of the tract parts must be coated with a sealed compound with a high heat resistance index, and then additionally secured with large-width clamps. Such special fasteners are sold in hardware stores.
4. If there are noticeable gaps between the pipe elements, they should be insulated with asbestos cord. This seal must be carefully but firmly inserted into the gap.

The installation of the pipe itself begins with connecting its first element to the stove pipe. You should immediately install a damper - a special valve that allows you to regulate the draft. Then you need to make a square hole in the ceiling and assemble a metal box with a through hole corresponding to the diameter of the pipe. We will pass the path through it to the attic. The height of the box is taken to be 0.4 m greater than the thickness of the ceiling surface.

Everything will go faster from here on out. Mount the box in the ceiling, fix it, and run the pipe into the attic. Place mineral wool or expanded clay into the free space of the box (material with a medium grain is optimal). In the attic, the box should be covered with a lid (you also need to make a hole in it). Cut a hole where the chimney passes through the roof and attach a sheet of heat-resistant asbestos to it from below. The pipe must be covered on top with sheets of mineral wool or asbestos to protect roof structure from fire. Pull a rubber waterproof cuff over the heat-insulated path in this way and treat the gaps with sealant. The work is completed!

External chimney - rules for quick installation

The external path is much easier to install. It is done faster and requires little labor, which is important when the work is done with your own hands. Such a chimney does not rise to the ceiling, but is laid in the bathhouse through the wall. To turn the pipe in the desired direction, a special bend is used (a metal elbow with a suitable bending angle). It is this element that is connected to the stove pipe, and then to the pipe that is led outside. To do this, use the box again.

A tee is installed on the outside of the bathhouse. It allows you to route the tract up, along the wall surface and down.

The pipe is secured with holders. They have a special shape and guarantee high-quality fixation of the structure. Outer pipe rises above the ridge by about 0.6 m. Its upper end must be covered with an umbrella (it is also mounted on internal chimneys), which will not let raindrops and small debris into the system. Seal the gaps between the wall and the pipe outlet with heat-resistant sealant.

As you can see, the outdoor structure is easy to install. It does not require punching holes in the ceiling and roof, eliminating the risk of floor leaks. But it also has a serious drawback - rapid cooling. For this reason, external systems are additionally insulated with mineral wool and other thermal insulation materials.

Choose a suitable smoke exhaust duct for the steam room, which you can easily build yourself. And enjoy relaxing bath treatments at any time.