Insulating the roof of a cold attic in a private house. Insulation of the ceiling in a house with a cold roof: the roof is cold, the house is warm

If there is no need to use the attic for living, insulate the ceiling in a house with cold roof. Thermal insulation will affect the comfort of living:

• the air temperature in the interior will increase;
• humidity stabilizes;
• the cost of purchasing energy resources will be reduced;
• the speed of air movement will decrease (there will be fewer reasons for drafts).

Advantages of installing an unheated attic

Thermal insulation of the ceiling of heated rooms or the floor of the attic has a number of advantages:

1. A buffer zone is created between external environment and heated rooms. The gradual transition between cold and warm air has a positive effect on the service life of insulation and building structures. In winter, ice does not accumulate on the roof.
2. The cost of purchasing building materials is reduced, because the ceiling area in most cases less area roofs.
3. The requirements for the professional skills of a specialist are reduced, which makes it possible to carry out the work independently.
4. The time a building is without a roof during insulation is significantly reduced, which is especially important in regions with frequently changing weather.

During construction, it is necessary to take into account the weight of the insulation to be used. If the house has already been built, then when installing protection against heat loss, care should be taken to reduce the additional load on load-bearing walls and the foundation of the building. Calculations are carried out in 3 stages:

• determining the thickness of the selected insulator;
• calculating the weight of the resulting insulation;
• determining the possibility of using one or another isolation method.

Exceeding the permissible load on the floors, walls and foundation will lead to the destruction of the building either during the work or upon its completion.

Determining the thickness

To find the height of the insulating layer, you need to know two values:

— standard thermal resistance of floors for the region of residence;

Locality	Required thermal resistance of the ceiling R, m 2 °C/W
Anadyr	6.0
Arkhangelsk	42829
Astrakhan	42828
Barnaul	42859
Belgorod	42889
Blagoveshchensk	42920
Bryansk	42950
Vladivostok	42981
Vladimir	42739
Volgograd	42889
Vologda	42770
Voronezh	42950
Grozny	42769
Derbent	42949
Ekaterinburg	42829
Ivanovo	42739
Izhevsk	42798
Irkutsk	42951
Yoshkar-Ola	42798
Kazan	42770
Tver	4.0
Kaliningrad	42828
Kaluga	42981
Kemerovo	42920
Kirov	42829
Kislovodsk	42797
Komsomolsk-on-Amur	42951
Kostroma	42739
Krasnoyarsk	42920
Samara	42739
Mound	42859
Kursk	42919
Lipetsk	42950
Magadan	42830
Maykop	3.0
Makhachkala	42980
Moscow	42981
Murmansk	42890
Nalchik	42797
Nizhny Novgorod	42739
Novgorod region	42981
Novorossiysk	42918
Novosibirsk	42920
Oymyakon	42832
Omsk	42890
Ordzhonikidze	42797
Eagle	42981
Orenburg	42770
Permian	42829
Petrozavodsk	42770
Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky	42770
Pskov	42950
Rostov-on-Don	42828
Ryazan	4.0
Salekhard	42891
Saint Petersburg	42981
Saransk	4.0
Saratov	42981
Smolensk	42950
Sochi	42796
Stavropol	42769
Surgut	42740
Syktyvkar	42859
Tambov	42981
Tomsk	42920
Tula	42981
Tyumen	42829
Ulan-Ude	42982
Ulyanovsk	42739
Urengoy	42983
Ussuriysk	42770
Ufa	42770
Khabarovsk	42859
Khanty-Mansiysk	42951
Cheboksary	42770
Chelyabinsk	42829
Chita	42771
Elista	42828
Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk	42770
Yakutsk	42831
Yaroslavl	42950

Thermal conductivity coefficient of the material used

Material	Specific thermal conductivity coefficient, W/m K
Fibrous materials	0,038 – 0,052
Expanded polystyrene	0,032 – 0,036
Polyurethane foam	0.026
Expanded clay	0.11
Ecowool	0,038 – 0,041
Natural materials
Felt (various types)	0,031-0,05
Foliage (dry)	0,05-0,06
Tow	0,037-0,041
Moss	0.04
Needles	0.08
Straw mats	0,05-0,06
cotton wool	0.037
Thin shavings (packing)	0,05-1
Campfire (various types)	0,04-0,065
Sphagnum (peat)	0,05-0,07
Wood sawdust	0,05-0,08
Straw (stuffed, cut)	0.04

For example: To get the result you need to divide the first indicator by the second. The resulting number shows the thickness of the layer in meters.

The required thermal resistance for the ceiling in Saratov is 3.9 m 2 K/W. It is planned to use polyurethane foam with a thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.026 W/m K. When divided, we obtain 0.1014 m. To obtain the required heat savings, it is necessary to apply 10.2 cm of insulation.

Calculate the weight

To determine the mass of a heat insulator, it is necessary to multiply its volume by its density. The volume is found by multiplying the layer thickness by the area determined by the product of the length and width of the thermal insulation.

We take the density of the main insulation materials from the table:

Material	Density, kg/m 3
Fibrous materials	100 - 120
Expanded polystyrene	25 - 35
Polyurethane foam	54 - 55
Expanded clay	200-400
Ecowool	42-75
Natural materials
Felt (various types)	100-150
Foliage (dry)	50
Tow	180
Moss	135
Needles	43
Straw mats	85
cotton wool	80
Thin shavings (packing)	140-300
Campfire (various types)	150-350
Sphagnum (peat)	150
Wood sawdust	190-250
Straw (stuffed, cut)	120

Natural materialsAdded load thermal insulation material Based on existing calculations for the load of the foundation from walls, floors, and roofs, we determine the possibility of using one or another insulation material.

How to properly insulate a ceiling under a cold roof using long-tested and well-proven insulation materials? These are heat insulators given by nature itself, beneficial features which were identified by our ancestors. These also include materials produced industrially from environmentally friendly ingredients.

Wood processing industry waste

Previously, construction was a waste-free industry. The shavings and sawdust remaining during wood processing served to protect the house from the winter cold. They were poured between the main walls and the sheathing and used to insulate the ceiling. Similar technologies are still used today.

Use a mixture of sawdust and shavings. The shavings help increase the heat-holding capacity.

Main advantages:

• environmental cleanliness;
• availability;
• low cost.

The disadvantage remains the high fire danger. In order to reduce this indicator, they are mixed with clay, cement, and adding fire retardant solutions. It is most advisable to use it for insulating wooden floors. Insulation from inside the room is impossible.

Immediately before starting work, the load-bearing structures of the ceiling are treated with septic tanks. A vapor barrier is installed from inside the room to prevent moisture from penetrating into the insulation volume, which can lead to:

• decreased thermal insulation properties;
• increase in insulator weight;
• gradual destruction of joist boards.

Communication passages are insulated with non-combustible materials. Electrical supply networks are enclosed in boxes or corrugated pipes.

If you use sawdust and shavings in their pure form, prevent the possibility of falling inside the room. To prevent the possibility of rodents entering, lay carbide with slaked lime. After laying the layer required thickness, sprinkle it with spent slag on top to increase fire safety.

Using a mixture of 10 parts sawdust, 1-2 parts clay, and 1-2 parts water and fire retardants allows you to obtain non-flammable or slightly flammable insulation. For high-quality adhesion of clay and cement to sawdust, the mixture must be thoroughly wet.

Thermal insulation using this method must be carried out in the spring to ensure drying before the onset of winter cold. If you step on a well-dried layer, it should make the sound of dry wood deforming.

Fired clay

The use of pure clay as a heat insulator is hardly possible due to the need to use a layer up to 80 cm thick. Therefore, clay that has been heat-treated to give volume - expanded clay - has long been used. This is an environmentally friendly, non-flammable material. Quite light, with good thermal insulation ability. Can be used on both wooden and reinforced concrete floors.

The smaller the expanded clay fraction, the worse it retains heat.

Before installation begins, wooden structures are treated with septic tanks and fire retardants. A rough ceiling is installed from inside the room, which will take on the weight of the expanded clay.

Positive properties of expanded clay:

• does not generate dust during operation;
• has good vapor permeability;
• does not absorb moisture;
• does not require the use of protective membranes and films.

To ensure passage across the attic floor and use it for household needs, boards are laid over the joists or a subfloor is installed.

To insulate reinforced concrete floors, simply pour the required layer of expanded clay. If there is a need to use an attic, a reinforced cement-sand screed is installed on top of it.

Loose pulp

Ecowool is made from wood fibers and has many advantages:

• low fire hazard due to the use of fire retardants (refers to low-flammable, self-extinguishing materials;
• sufficiently low density even in compacted form, which does not create excessive load on the floors and foundation;
• possible quick installation any thickness;
• does not spread microorganisms, fungus and mold inside and on the surface;
• has high vapor permeability;
• forms a continuous, unbreakable carpet without the formation of cold bridges;
• environmentally friendly.

Before installation it is necessary to install diffusion membrane, which will ensure insulation of the internal living space from the fibers of the heat insulator.

It can be laid in two ways: wet and dry.

When dry laying, ecowool is poured onto the surface of the ceiling, leveled and compacted.

When laying wet, a feeding device (compressor) is used to coat the wool with a binder and apply it to the floor. This avoids the formation of individual fibers during operation.

What we mowed down is how we insulate it

The possibility of obtaining a natural thermal insulator at a low price increases the attractiveness of using reeds and straw in this role. These materials are used in the form of pre-arranged mats, as well as in the form of finely chopped stems. When using mats, installation is carried out in several layers, taking into account the fact that upper layer should overlap the joints of the lower one. It is also used as the main filler using the technology of producing insulator from sawdust and cement (clay).

From the bottom of the sea

Buildings located close to the sea and ocean coasts are insulated with algae. It's natural and environmentally friendly clean material has some advantages:

• good thermal insulation ability;
• high vapor permeability;
• resistance to temperature changes and high humidity;
• low water absorption;
• resistance to biological forms of life (rodents and microorganisms);
• zero fire hazard;
• no need to use vapor barrier membranes;
• saturation of premises with iodine.

Used in the form of pre-prepared mats.

They made me from stone, slag and glass (insulation)

The use of natural materials with deep processing allows us to obtain materials for protecting premises with better performance at a lower price.

The use of fiberglass materials is associated with certain difficulties during installation and subsequent use. Glass dust and small fibers released during the production process can injure the human respiratory and vision organs. Contact with skin may cause lesions and allergic reactions. Working without enough serious funds protection is impossible. During operation, it forms fine dust, the inhalation of which is harmful to health. The extremely low environmental performance of the material makes it impossible to use it in rooms and buildings where people are constantly present.

Cotton wool obtained from furnace slag also has extremely low environmental test results. When water gets in, it releases acidic fumes that are dangerous if inhaled and destroy metal constructions. Thin and brittle fibers can remain suspended in indoor air for a long time. They have an increased ability to absorb moisture.

The situation with environmental certification for slabs, mats, and rolls made from basalt fabric is almost excellent. Relevant documents allow for the insulation of floors in residential buildings, structures for long-term human stay, children's and medical institutions. Recommended for work on wooden floors.

Core Technology

Insulation of the ceiling under the roof allows all work to be carried out efficiently without regard to external weather conditions.

High vapor permeability and the possibility of getting wet mineral wool insulation requires mandatory installation vapor barrier membrane. In residential premises there is constantly air saturated with moisture, which tends to leave the room with excess humidity.

The presence of 20% moisture in the material by volume reduces the heat-holding capacity by 2 times. When 40% is reached, the insulation efficiency is zero.

The film is secured with a construction stapler. The strips are laid perpendicular to the laid and secured joists. The tightness of the connection is ensured by securing the edges of the strips with double-sided tape.

Filing the rough ceiling or sheathing for finishing It’s more convenient to do it with screws.

The insulation is installed from the attic side. The width of the insulation should be 10 - 20 mm narrower than the distance between the joists. Otherwise, gaps will form that allow heat to escape. They must be filled with insulation scraps, or the orientation of the material must be changed, which will lead to excess material consumption. The height of the joist boards should be greater than the thickness of the heat insulator.

Pressing the insulation against the enclosing structures leads to its compaction and an increase in the specific thermal conductivity coefficient.

Boards are laid on top of the low-density heat insulator to make it possible to use the attic for technical purposes. High-density slabs can be protected by installing a screed made of cement and sand.

We use innovations

Protection made from natural materials has an impressive list and good characteristics. Scientific developments have made it possible to create artificial insulation materials that are significantly superior in their consumer qualities to the developments of generations.

Styrene insulation

Produced by different technologies Polystyrene heat insulators acquire qualities that are widely used in modern insulation systems:

1. A heat-holding capacity unattainable for natural insulation materials (about 0.03 W/m K). This is achieved due to the presence of material in the volume huge amount confined spaces with still air, which is an ideal insulator.
2. A negligible degree of water absorption (from 0.4 to 4% of the volume at full immersion) and zero vapor permeability, which is especially important under unfavorable operating conditions.
3. Increased resistance to compression, which determines the possibility of covering the insulation with heavy ties.
4. A wide range of thicknesses allows you to select a layer close to the design one, thereby reducing purchasing costs.
5. Standardized dimensions ensure ease of calculation and installation, as well as maintainability of the heat insulation layer.
6. Low biological activity does not allow microorganisms and rodents to spread.
7. Once the source material has been stabilized, the production process is environmentally friendly.

But they also have quite a few disadvantages:

1. High fire danger. When exposed to open fire, they ignite, maintain combustion, and release substances that are unsuitable for breathing.
2. Low chemical resistance. They actively react with highly active substances until they lose integrity.
3. Destroyed by prolonged exposure to sunlight.
4. The market value is higher than that of fiber and natural insulation.

Application technology

How to properly insulate a ceiling under a cold roof using expanded polystyrene (EPS)?

When laying it on the floor of the attic, it is enough to level the surface: knock down the protrusions, fill the potholes. For height differences of more than 10 mm, apply a leveling screed.

Diffusion membranes are not used in this case. Lay the slabs close to each other. The resulting gaps are filled with scraps or polyurethane foam. The slabs of the second layer are laid with a shift in relation to the first, overlapping its joints.

The insulation boards are secured with wide-headed dowels. The depth of the dowel is at least 60 mm. Its cap should be recessed into the plane of the slab by 1-2 mm.

Then the entire surface is covered with a reinforced cement-sand screed to ensure the safety of the insulation from mechanical, chemical damage, and natural phenomena.

Liquid heat insulator

Polyurethane foam is delivered to the work site in a liquid state. This insulation is obtained as a result of a chemical reaction of two components under pressure. As a result, it acquires physical and Chemical properties. Great benefits are:

• the possibility of insulating any building materials;
• carrying out thermal insulation in hard to reach places;
• creation of a single thermal insulation layer on the entire insulated surface without the formation of cold bridges.

Application of polyurethane foam requires certain preparation and equipment. Failure to comply with the technology or the dosage of starting substances can lead to the receipt of a final product with properties different from the required ones.

In the case of thermal insulation of reinforced concrete floors with subsequent transformation of the attic into a technical room, it is necessary to install floor joists. In other cases, surface preparation is not required before starting work.

There is no need to use hydro- and vapor barrier. All subsequent processing of the insulated surface consists of arranging a subfloor or screed.

Top or bottom

In some cases, access to the attic is impossible or the work causes great difficulties. As an alternative, thermal insulation with polyurethane foam or arrangement of insulation from the inside is considered.

This method has a number of disadvantages:

1. Basically, it is possible to use rigid boards, which leads to an increase in purchase costs, or cheaper roll materials with the installation of a support system, which leads to increased labor costs.
2. The ceiling height in the room is noticeably reduced (by about 15 cm).
3. Condensation occurs between the insulation and the concrete floor, which leads to the development of microorganisms, fungus, and mold.

If installing insulation between wooden joists more and less simple, then with isolation concrete surface you'll have to tinker:

1. It is necessary to clean the surface of the old finish.
2. Extend and seal all cracks, level the surface.

3.Coat it with a deep penetration primer.

1. Glue the rigid boards with glue and secure with dowels - umbrellas.
2. Treat the thermal insulator with primer.
3. Use glue to secure the reinforcing mesh.
4. Carry out plastering.

A cold roof is not a clear advantage of a residential building, but it certainly cannot be a serious disadvantage. Proper insulation the ceiling of residential premises from above (from the attic side) or from below (from the room side) allows for savings in heating costs and increased living comfort. Work easily, live happily.

In order to retain heat in the room, thermal insulation measures are necessary. 15% of all heat loss occurs through the ceiling. Before insulating your ceiling in a private house with your own hands, you need to choose the material wisely and become familiar with the technology for performing the work. Activities can be carried out in several ways, it all depends on the type of insulated ceiling.

Methods of performing work

Ceiling insulation technology suggests the existence of only two installation options:

When choosing between them, several factors are taken into account. The article is about holding events in a private house; it is worth remembering that insulation in an apartment is carried out according to the same principle, but the work can only be done from below, since insulation from above affects the upper apartment or attic - the common area of ​​the house.

External ceiling insulation scheme

Most often, in apartment buildings, it is necessary to install insulation to increase the sound insulation of interfloor floors or the thermal insulation of the ceiling of the last floor.

In a private home, the choice of method is limited only by the decision of the home owner. Carrying out measures for interfloor ceilings (as sound insulation) is not required; thermal protection of the ceiling of the last floor is carried out in the presence of an unheated attic. It is worth noting that a smart option is to insulate the ceiling from the outside, on the cold air side. This has the following advantages:

Step-by-step process of ceiling insulation mineral wool

• in addition to the room, the floor structure is insulated, which increases its service life;
• insulating the ceiling from the attic side does not reduce the height of the upper floor;
• carrying out the work does not require serious effort (when fastening the insulation from below, you must constantly keep your head up and use a stepladder or other means of providing access);
• with different methods of thermal insulation measures, the location of the dew point (the point of condensation loss) changes; when insulated from the warm air side, it gets into the thickness of the floor pie, which can cause problems in the future;
• the method does not affect interior decoration premises, if in the future it is necessary to replace the insulation, the work can be carried out quickly and without additional financial costs.

If necessary, you can insulate the ceiling from the inside.

Insulation from the attic

Thermal protection from cold air is best done with materials that have high density and rigidity. The attic is a space in which it is necessary to provide access for human passage. If you lay a compressible, weak material on top of the attic floor, it may wrinkle, deform or collapse and cease to perform its functions. When choosing insulation for this method, strength is as important as thermal conductivity.

Ceiling insulation scheme in the attic

Before insulating the ceiling in a private house, you need to familiarize yourself with the procedure for performing the work:

1. The attic space is cleared of debris and dirt. The insulation must lie on a clean and level base.
2. Space is measured and calculated required amount thermal insulation material.
3. Depending on the selected material, a vapor barrier layer is provided. It must be laid on the warm air side relative to the heat insulator. Not all materials require vapor barrier; if the insulation is resistant to moisture and has a low moisture absorption coefficient, no additional measures are required.
4. Laying is carried out using two methods, the choice between which depends on the strength of the purchased material. If thermal protection is carried out with high-strength insulation, it can be laid under cement-sand screed. To increase the reliability of the structure, the screed is taken to be at least 2 cm thick and additionally reinforced with wire reinforcement with a diameter of 3-4 mm. If the strength of the heat insulator is not high enough, installation is carried out between the joists. The presence of a wooden frame allows you to remove the load on the floor of the room from the insulation and transfer it through the bars to the ceiling.
5. After installing the heat-insulating layer, waterproofing is provided. It will prevent the insulation from getting wet on the outside. Water in the attic can appear due to roof leaks or liquid spills; waterproofing in case of unforeseen situations protects the thermal insulation layer from loss performance characteristics. The simplest material for waterproofing is polyethylene film.
6. The next stage is installation of the floor pie.

Insulation from the inside

Before insulating the ceiling, choose a fairly light material. Unlike installing heat protection from the outside, insulating the ceiling from the inside does not require the use of durable heat insulators. In this case, they try to choose the insulation that will adhere securely to a horizontal surface. The smaller the layer, the easier it is to install.

An example of correct and incorrect installation of insulation

To understand how to properly insulate the ceiling in this case, you need to familiarize yourself with the work procedure:

1. As with the previous method, first the surface is cleaned of dirt and dust. Calculate the required amount of material.
2. Next, installation of wooden or metal frame. If, when installing from the outside, you can lay it without additional bars or boards, then when installing from below, it is better to ensure reliable fastening. The ceiling structure is subsequently attached to the frame. Wooden boards or bars or an aluminum ceiling profile are used as frame elements.
3. The insulation is placed between the guides. The fastening can be adhesive to the ceiling or using fasteners to the frame. Both of these options are often used together.
4. The final stage is installation of the ceiling.

Insulation materials

The choice of thermal insulation layer depends on the method of insulation and the financial capabilities of the home owner. To answer the question of what is the best way to insulate a ceiling, you need to distribute the materials that can be used for each case.

For the method from above use:

• hard mineral wool slabs (more details in the article “Insulating your ceiling in a private house with mineral wool”);
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• polystyrene foam of high strength grades, laid between joists or under reinforced screed;
• polyurethane foam (only between the joists);
• sawdust;
• expanded clay

The last two options are suitable for those who care about the environmental component of construction. Expanded clay and sawdust - inexpensive and natural option for thermal insulation.

Insulating the ceiling in a private house with your own hands: the process

In a private house, ceiling insulation is not the last thing. We will tell you how to insulate a ceiling with your own hands, both from the inside and the outside.

How to properly insulate a ceiling under a cold roof - materials and technologies

Roofs that are called “cold” are erected most often, because in order to create warm attic will be required additional funds, time, effort, and the weight of the structure will be much higher.

Not every homeowner has this luxury. Therefore, most often a rafter system is made, covered with waterproofing and laid roofing material.

With this design, the main emphasis on thermal insulation should be placed on the ceiling of the living room (and not only to prevent cold air from escaping into the street, but also to reduce noise permeability and protect against heat in the summer).

There are several ways to insulate a ceiling under a cold roof. Worth considering different materials and technology.

Two methods of insulation are fundamentally different from each other:

From the attic

The most correct, from a construction point of view, is the first option. When insulating from the attic side, wet steam is able to escape from the house and does not freeze inside the building materials of the ceiling itself. This means that there will be no mold, mildew, or freezing. The air in the house will be lighter.

The attic method allows the use of inexpensive bulk insulation, and sprayed modern building materials are also used.

From the side of the room

It is possible to hem the ceiling from below if for some reason it is not possible to use the attic method (if the attic is inaccessible, if it is impossible to disassemble its ceiling, etc.). The disadvantage of this method is that moisture cannot freely leave the house. It will accumulate in the layers of insulation and cause dampness, mold, and rapid destruction of wooden floors.

Installation work for the sheathing on the side of the room involves the construction of a metal or wooden frame (longitudinal joists), between which sheet insulation is laid (most often, dense mineral wool, or extruded polystyrene foam, “Penoplex”).

Frame for insulation

Insulation boards need to be well fixed, work “overhead” is quite labor-intensive, and the equipment of builders dealing with mineral wool should be as closed as possible.

The choice of material depends on whether the ceiling will be insulated from the attic or from the house:

For the attic they use: expanded clay, sawdust, slag, polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, mineral wool (including glass wool, basalt, slag), ecowool, foam glass, polyurethane foam (Ecotermix, for example). It is convenient to work on a horizontal surface, and the choice of materials is wide – from bulk to sprayed.

Bulk materials

Expanded clay – chosen because of its availability (as well as non-flammability and natural origin). However, expanded clay granules do not retain heat well, and you will need a fairly thick layer of this insulation, which will add weight to the entire structure (especially if you cover the expanded clay with a cement screed).

If you are purchasing expanded clay, you should choose larger granules - they have more air cavities, which means their insulating properties are better.

Ceiling insulation scheme with expanded clay

Sawdust have more advantages than expanded clay. They retain heat better, are lighter, and for many people become a solution if they are available for their occupation. But mice and other living creatures happily settle in the material, and over time the thermal insulation properties decrease; they need to be constantly replenished.

Cannot be used for insulation fresh sawdust! They must dry out for at least a year. In the future, you need to protect the thermal insulation layer from getting wet. The smaller the sawdust fraction, the worse the thermal conductivity, so preference is for medium-sized sawdust mixed with slag.

Ecowool – It is applied professionally using special equipment, but there is also a free manual method, when loosened ecowool is “thrown” onto the ceiling yourself. The material is environmentally friendly, lightweight, performs excellent thermal insulation functions and has an average degree of flammability (treated with fire retardants).

Styrofoam– one of the most used materials for attic insulation. Expanded polystyrene is lightweight, holds heat well, and is relatively inexpensive. It is very convenient to work with the slabs, the work goes quickly. Polyurethane foam is most often used to seal joints.

The main disadvantage is that polystyrene foam burns well and when burned emits toxic smoke and drips.

You also need to take into account the fact that ordinary foam plastic has a low compressive density; after installation, you cannot walk on it, otherwise the surface will be easily damaged.

To use such an attic, the foam will need to be covered with another layer (OSB boards, chipboards, boards, etc.).

To install polystyrene foam, two methods can be used:

The first is suitable for a flat, smooth surface. Special compounds are used that can be applied to the foam sheet itself around the perimeter. It is better to arrange the sheets in a checkerboard pattern. The resulting gaps at the joints are filled with foam. For better effect, it is better to lay two layers of thinner foam than one thick one.

Using the frame method, you need to accurately check the distance between the lags, since the foam does not bend and crumbles when trimmed.

Extruded polystyrene foam is the same polystyrene foam, but produced using a different technology; it is more dense in compression and more resistant to combustion.

Mineral wool. Great for dry attics. Mineral wool is heavier than polystyrene foam, but lighter than expanded clay. It burns poorly and is inexpensive and insulates the room well.

You need to work with mats carefully, since their small particles fall out, get on the skin and mucous membranes and can cause serious harm to health.

Mineral wool mats need to be covered with a dense finishing layer so that the attic can be walked in the future.

In addition, it would not be superfluous to protect the insulation from possible moisture ingress by laying a layer of vapor barrier membrane on top (the joints of the layers are overlapped at least 10 cm and the seams are taped).

The insulation and the membrane fit tightly to each other, and a ventilation gap must be made between them and the finishing layer of the floor. If the height of the logs no longer allows this, counter battens are nailed and the finishing flooring is made on them.

Sprayed materials

Polyurethane foam (or PPU various brands) is a modern way to insulate floors quickly and efficiently.

The use of polyurethane foam significantly speeds up the installation process (6-8 times), many workers are not required, and the result will be a thin, light layer of insulation without cold bridges, which will not lose its properties over the years.

When expanding, the polyurethane foam fills all the cracks. The coating becomes dense and you can walk on it.

Polyurethane foam is not afraid of moisture and rodents.

What is the best way to insulate a ceiling in a private house?

So, what is the best way to insulate the ceiling of a private house? The best solution, in this case, there will be dense slabs of mineral wool.

To secure them above your head, you will need to construct a wooden (or metal) frame. The distance between the frame guides should correspond to the width of the insulation board with a slight deficit so that it fits tightly into the spacer.

In addition, the wool must be between two layers of waterproofing film.

Mineral wool on a frame

To securely fix the slab to the ceiling, you can use a special adhesive composition, as well as special dowel nails with wide heads.

Along the protruding beams of the frame, it is attached finishing layer ceiling for finishing. It’s good if there is a small air gap between the insulation and this layer.

Roof work

If you plan to make the attic space residential, you will need to insulate the pitched roof itself from the inside ( non-residential attics They are better ventilated and last longer if they are insulated along the floor).

Work here is one of the most problematic, due to the height and inaccessibility of many areas.

As a rule, one of the following is selected as a material:

1. Expanded polystyrene (extruded or regular).
2. Mineral wool (preference is for denser mats, as well as mats with a foil layer).
3. Sprayed polyurethane foam (the most convenient, fastest and most effective).

The arrangement of building materials can be like this:

• roof;
• lathing that will provide an air gap;
• a membrane that allows steam to pass in one direction (only for mineral wool);
• insulation;
• vapor barrier;
• slats;
• fine finishing.

For polyurethane foam, none of this is needed.

It is sprayed directly onto the roofing material and covered with a finishing deck.

If electrical wiring runs through the attic, it must either be placed in a special casing or placed on top of layers of thermal insulation.

Conclusion

Work on insulating the attic may take longer than planned, so carefully prepare everything in advance, calculate and think through the sequence. Especially if insulation is planned pitched roof and working with mineral wool.

How to properly insulate a ceiling under a cold roof

What are the ways to insulate a ceiling under a cold roof in an unheated attic. Choose a material for insulating the attic: mineral wool, polystyrene foam, penoplex, sawdust, expanded clay, polyurethane foam, ecowool - which is better. Installation methods and technologies.

Warm ceiling: insulation materials and operating procedures

• The first step in this difficult process is choosing insulation
• Types of ceiling insulation
• • Useful little things
• Insulation of the ceiling from the outside
• Foam insulation
• Tips for the best ceiling insulation

Every owner of a private house understands in the first winter that it is necessary to insulate the ceiling from the inside, since it is from the roof that the largest heat leak occurs. The explanation for this is simple: heated air, according to the laws of physics, rises to the ceiling, where it disappears through the ceilings.

Scheme of insulation and soundproofing of the attic.

Heat loss from this sometimes reaches 60%, and more than half of the energy spent on heating is wasted. So the ceiling must be insulated. To do this you will need the following materials and tools:

• vapor barrier;
• sheet foam of the required thickness and density or;
• mineral wool (in sheets or in rolls);
• glue;
• boards or iron profile for the frame;
• self-tapping screws;
• drywall;
• screwdriver;
• polyurethane foam for sealing cracks.

The first step in this difficult process is choosing insulation

Ceiling insulation diagram.

Now the best option for thermal insulation is mineral wool. It is easy to work with, it is inexpensive, holds heat very well and is fireproof at the same time. It is no longer practical to use materials that were used before to insulate the roof. Of course, it is cheap and very simple to cover the floor in the attic with materials such as expanded clay, dry grass, or cover it with slag or sawdust. But such materials do not retain heat well, and in terms of fire safety they also do not meet the standards. Of all this list, only expanded clay may be suitable, but in terms of its heat-shielding properties it is inferior to mineral wool.

When the insulation has been selected, you can begin next stage: you need to decide how the ceiling will be insulated.

Types of ceiling insulation

Insulation scheme for a wooden attic.

There are only two main ways to insulate a ceiling: outside and inside the house. Both of these methods do the job well, the heat in the room is retained, and the energy does not go into emptiness. The difference is in the insulation technology, as well as in the choice of materials for roof insulation. Construction Materials, used for this purpose, are divided into two groups according to their properties to absorb moisture from the air. There are only two types: vapor-permeable and vapor-tight. Based on these properties, vapor-permeable material is used for thermal insulation with inside, and vapor-tight - from the outside.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling indoors

It is with this type of room insulation that mineral wool is used, which comes in the form of slabs and rolls. If you combine it with a suspended ceiling made of plasterboard, you will get an insurmountable barrier to heat that wants to seep through the cracks.

The process of installing such a ceiling, which contains thermal insulation, can be divided into three stages; this scheme will help to act more harmoniously.

1. It is necessary to assemble a frame, wooden or from a metal profile, using a hammer drill and dowel nails.
2. Mineral insulation is cut into required size layers and glued to the ceiling between the profile, filling as much as possible all the empty space. Tile adhesive glues the insulation to the ceiling almost instantly, and professionals advise using it.

Before working with insulation, you must re-read the instructions in detail; in some cases, it is necessary to apply a layer of vapor barrier between the ceiling and the mineral insulation.

At this stage, the ceiling is sheathed around the entire perimeter with sheets of plasterboard. To do this, it is recommended to use self-tapping screws made of hardened steel, as they are the most durable. These screws can withstand the heaviest loads.

The whole technology seems to be very simple, and yet ignorance of some of the nuances can jeopardize the entire process.

Useful little things

Roof thermal insulation diagram.

The insulation cannot be compressed. Thermal insulation comes precisely from the presence of air bubbles in it, which will disappear when compressed. It is better to leave some distance from the mineral wool to the drywall.

Moreover, in many cases there is a problem spotlights. The fact is that the energy-saving lamps used everywhere heat up a little. And the insulation hidden behind a layer of drywall is laid there specifically to prevent any heat transfer. The space near the lamps is not ventilated, and as a result they very quickly, after 2-3 hours continuous operation, burn out. There are two options for solving the problem: abandon the built-in lighting altogether, using sconces or ordinary chandeliers instead, or cut out a space in the insulation around each lamp, leaving a gap of about 2-3 cm, and then cover everything with layers of plasterboard.

At this point, the process of insulating the ceiling indoors is completely completed, and it is necessary to sort out which materials for insulating the ceiling are used outside, on the roof side.

Insulation of the ceiling from the outside

This method is great for cases where the house has already been renovated and to insulate the roof from the inside you will need to dismantle the plasterboard ceiling. Doing all this is very unprofitable and takes a long time. It is much easier to insulate the ceiling from the outside, from the attic side. At the same time, the need for suspended ceiling from plasterboard is eliminated unless it has already been installed previously. The method of insulating a roof from the outside is even simpler than from the inside. There are two options, the first and simplest of them involves using penoizol.

Foam insulation

For convenience, work with penoizol in the attic can be divided into 4 stages:

Air movement pattern in the attic.

1. Cleaning the attic. As a rule, attics are filled with unnecessary things and other slag, and for insulation work with foam insulation you will need an absolutely clean surface.
2. Accurate measurement of space to purchase the correct amount of polystyrene foam. Its thickness should not be less than 40 cm. High-density foam is needed. It can be replaced with foam insulation such as polystyrene, but this replacement will cost much more.
3. The floor in the attic is completely covered with sheets of foam plastic; at the joints they are connected using polyurethane foam.
4. If there are no plans to walk in the room, the scheme can do without this stage. If the attic will be used as an attic or as a warehouse, foam insulation is required good screed. Otherwise, no later than a month from walking on it, the foam will break and become just useless slag. Before pouring the screed, you will need to lay a metal reinforcing mesh in the attic. A layer of solution is poured at least 50 mm deep.

The attic space can be insulated not only with foam insulation. If desired, the same mineral wool can become insulation for the roof. The scheme of actions remains almost the same and consists of 6 stages, only the materials for insulating the ceiling change.

1. Cleaning the floor of unnecessary things and small debris - a completely clean slab is required.
2. The most accurate measurements are taken.
3. The floor frame is assembled and the logs are installed.
4. A vapor barrier, for example glassine, is applied. It should be cut with a small margin to use excess pieces on the joists.
5. Mineral wool is laid without gaps, but as tightly as possible. Don't forget that you can't squeeze it.
6. The last stage is flooring. It is made depending on the purpose attic spaces. You can assemble a beautiful floor, or you can use the simplest covering.

These are all the ways you can insulate the ceiling in your country house. There are only a few more interesting tips left to improve functionality.

To make the ceiling even warmer, mineral insulation or polystyrene foam can be laid in two layers. In this case, you need to lay it according to the principle of bricks, so that the layer on top covers the joints in the bottom layer. You can use boards or even sheets of drywall to press the layers slightly against each other.

There is nothing more to say about ceiling insulation. We can conclude that thermal insulation from the outside is much simpler, faster and cheaper. But in both cases, changes will not take long to happen - the house will immediately become warmer, and therefore more comfortable.

Insulation of the ceiling in the attic from the inside: diagram

Insulating the ceiling in the attic from the inside or outside is necessary in conditions with cold winters. This will save energy for heating the room.

How to insulate the ceiling in a house from the attic side

When it comes to insulating a house, for some reason the ceiling is not included in the estimate. repair work, and the general climate in the house directly depends on its condition. According to the laws of physics, warm air always tends upward and gives off its energy to the roof, as a result of which the snow melts.

Thus, heating costs can increase by at least 30%. To reduce costs as much as possible, you need to take care of insulating the attic floor, as well as the roof itself.

What materials can be used

Three types of insulation are mainly used:

One or more options are selected from this list. Working with expanded clay and mineral wool does not require special construction skills, and to insulate an attic with polyurethane foam, it is better to call specialists. Working with this material requires special knowledge and skills.

Advantages of polyurethane foam in insulating the ceiling from the attic side

Polyurethane foam is a universal insulation material that is applied by spraying.

Thanks to this approach, all kinds of flaws and irregularities are well covered, and as a result an even layer is created. The advantages of polyurethane foam come down to rapid hardening and excellent moisture retention. Even the thinnest layer of insulation can retain heat perfectly.

Low dead weight does not deform the treated surface when applying several layers, and the material is resistant to fungi and mold. Rodents are also not a threat.

Polyurethane foam is a non-flammable insulation material, so the issue of fire hazard is eliminated.

This material can be used to treat both the attic floor and the surfaces under the roof. Resistance to moisture and temperature changes will allow you to close this issue for several decades. Polyurethane foam does not require additional protection with foil or film as waterproofing. Fiber insulation is susceptible to this.

As a result, treating the ceiling from the attic side will not only preserve heat in the house and reduce heating costs, but also create some kind of utility room or even living space on the “second floor.”

Insulation of attic floors with mineral wool

This insulation is created from rocks such as basalt. The composition of the wool consists of small fibers that fit tightly together and can be used to cover the floor in the attic.

For high-quality work, waterproofing with film or foil is necessary to prevent moisture from penetrating through the cracks. If the insulation gets wet, it will immediately lose its initial properties.

Laying mineral wool does not involve much difficulty. Commonly available on sale various options and the main ones - rolls or slabs. When purchasing, check the integrity of the packaging. If there are defects, the insulation may be damaged, which will seriously affect its properties.

Before work is carried out wooden sheathing, a waterproofing layer is laid, mineral wool slabs are distributed. If there are already beams on the ceiling on the attic side, you can lay insulation between them. The joints between the slabs (rolls) must be sealed with special tape. The height difference between the beam and the mineral wool layer should be minimal to reduce the possibility of warm air passing through. If one layer is not enough, it is better to lay several and make sure that the beams are covered.

Upon completion of all work, it is advisable to install a floor covering on top of mineral wool if you walk through the attic. Because deformation of the insulation due to walking will reduce all heat-insulating properties to zero.

Working with expanded clay

One of the simplest insulation materials is expanded clay. Its main advantages:

1. Low thermal conductivity.
2. Light weight.
3. Environmentally friendly material.
4. Does not burn.
5. Does not collapse from low temperatures.
6. Durable.

To insulate the ceiling from the attic side with expanded clay, you simply need to cover the surface with this material on a previously laid vapor-proof layer.

To achieve greater effect, it is recommended to mix expanded clay granules different sizes to eliminate the presence of voids in the flooring. It is also advisable to use such insulation in attics with pipes. The mixture is able to completely fill all gaps, which cannot be said about mineral wool.

On top of the insulation, you can make a cement screed and lay a laminate (linoleum).

Polystyrene foam is the easiest way to insulate

To use polystyrene foam as ceiling insulation from the attic side, you just need to purchase slabs the right size and lay it between beams or wooden sheathing.

Despite the advantages of this method, there is one significant drawback - easy flammability. Therefore, before making a choice in favor of polystyrene foam, it is better to think about everything again and, perhaps, pay attention to the same expanded clay.

Each material for ceiling insulation has certain thermal conductivity properties, which are calculated individually for each house. Therefore, this stage should be entrusted to specialists. Based on the data obtained, the material is then selected and its installation in the attic. The use of expanded clay and mineral wool does not require special construction knowledge, but work with polyurethane foam should be carried out by specialized workers.

Thus, after insulation in the attic, you can organize it as an additional room for storing household items or arrange a small living room. But this is at your discretion.

How to insulate the ceiling in a house from the attic side: video instructions

How to insulate the ceiling in a house from the attic side When it comes to insulating a house, for some reason the ceiling is not included in the estimate for repair work, and the general climate in the house directly depends on its condition.

A wooden house is a warm structure in itself. That is why many city residents are leaving their cramped apartments and moving to a suburban home. Wooden buildings are convenient and practical, as well as environmentally friendly. In summer it is pleasantly cool, and in winter it is warm. However, even the warmest wood will not protect against severe frosts and wind: you cannot do without insulation for the ceiling of a wooden room.

Often, all heat loss from the inside occurs due to improperly finished ceilings. If you do not properly insulate this part of the house, you may not be able to wait winter time coziness and comfort. They won't help modern windows and insulation of walls, it all depends on the ceiling.

How to insulate a ceiling in a wooden house?

There are several affordable and simple ways to insulate from the inside and outside with your own hands. All of them are divided into two options: insulation outside from the attic and inside the room. When insulating the surface from the inside, you need to understand that the height may decrease. If the attic floor is insulated, after all the work it is necessary to install the floor covering.

When insulating, you need to pay attention to the following indicators: strength, safety, noise insulation, fire resistance

Choosing required material, you need to focus on the following indicators:

• strength and durability;
• no harm to health;
• fire resistance;
• reliable thermal insulation qualities;
• presence of sound insulation.

What can be used?

• mineral or glass wool;
• sawdust;
• polyurethane foam;
• Styrofoam;
• clay;
• expanded clay

Using sawdust

They are the cheapest and in an accessible way insulation from the outside, while their qualities are not inferior to expensive materials. The process itself is simple and does not require much time. Everything can be done with your own hands. First you should prepare the materials:

• several bags of sawdust;
• insulating material. You need to calculate it required quantity. To do this, you need to know exactly the surface area;
• cement.

A mixture of sawdust and cement for ceiling insulation

The latter is diluted in water in a ratio of 1:10. How to correctly calculate the required number of sawdust? One and a half buckets of water will be needed for ten buckets of sawdust. A wet mixture should form, which will act as insulation.. What should sawdust be like? The first ones you come across are no good. The material must meet the following requirements:

• dryness, lack of moisture;
• age at least one year;
• absence of mold and its smell;
• the average size. Small ones are not suitable, otherwise the thermal insulation qualities will deteriorate.

The sawdust mixture should be evenly distributed over the ceiling surface

Sequencing:

1. Clean the surface from dust and dirt.
2. Treat the base with a special solution that protects the room and ceiling from fungi and insects.
3. Take the waterproofing material prepared in advance and lay it over the entire floor space.
4. Prepare a mixture of cement and sawdust. It should be a rich gray color.
5. Distribute the mixture throughout the space between ceiling.
6. You can walk on the thermal insulation layer to compact it. This will allow the mixture to set better and not allow heat to escape.

If you have access to the attic of the room, this method is the most suitable and cheapest. If you have to insulate the ceiling in wooden house only from the inside, you will have to choose a different method.

What are the benefits of rolled materials?

Mineral wool and glass wool, as well as other roll insulation materials, reliably protect the room, but they are difficult to work with: small particles fall off and get into the mouth, nose, and eyes. To avoid injury, you need to take care of yourself and prepare protective clothing and glasses.

Scheme of ceiling insulation with rolled materials, mats and bulk materials

Sequence of stages:

1. Nails are hammered onto the rough surface. In this case, you need to hammer in not up to the head, but so that they stick out slightly. Then the threads are pulled over them using the zigzag technique.
2. The insulation itself is installed. It is better to do the work not alone, but with a partner: one will lay the rolls, and the other will pull the thread. This way the glass wool can be inserted better.
3. Anti-condensation film is attached.
4. Now you can nail the nails harder to press the layer more tightly.
5. You can nail sheets of drywall or attach a false ceiling.

Attention: work requires caution and attention. It is necessary to ensure that there are no cracks: they are a source of cold and condensation.

Clay

Wide famous material, which is able to retain heat. Only used when adding other materials. Sawdust and glassine are usually added.

Clay retains heat perfectly, so it is used for insulation

Sequence of work:

• lay glassine or any other analogue;
• mix clay and sawdust (prepare a solution);
• Apply the mixture in a 15 cm layer and let dry. If there are cracks, they need to be rubbed with clay.

Insulation from the inside

What to do if there is no access to the space above the ceiling? There is an exit. True, you should be prepared for the fact that the height will decrease somewhat. Now the thermal insulation will be on the inside. How to carry out the work?

It's simple: first comes a layer of vapor barrier, then insulation, then another layer of vapor barrier.

Why are two layers needed? They prevent dampness of the rafters, the ceiling from the inside and the insulation. Only after this can the decorative ceiling be hemmed. How to do the work?

1. The first layer of vapor barrier is attached. The same glassine will do. It can be coated with glue in several places.
2. A mounting strip is driven through the vapor barrier. It’s better to take your time and do everything as carefully as possible: holes are drilled in the mounting rails for self-tapping screws, then you need to carefully tighten them with a screwdriver.
3. Thermal insulation is fixed. Polystyrene foam is inserted between the slats.
4. A second layer of vapor barrier is attached to the rail.
5. The entire structure is masked with PVC panels.

Expanded clay

Another simplest and most accessible method after sawdust. Pros:

• ecologically pure;
• unlike sawdust, it does not burn;
• resistant to temperature changes;
• not afraid of rodents, fungi and insects;
• simple installation technology;
• low price;
• easy to do with your own hands.

Expanded clay insulation scheme

All work is carried out outside. First, the already mentioned steam and waterproofing are carried out. Even a simple PVC film will do. It is better not to use roofing felt: it can release harmful toxins. Stages of work:

1. The pipe outlet and wiring are insulated with non-flammable materials. Sheets of iron or metal pipes are suitable.
2. Waterproofing is rolled out over the entire area. The joints need to be processed. The waterproofing is securely fixed using a stapler or special tape.
3. Vapor barrier is being laid. The overlap laying technology is suitable. Then everything is secured with a stapler.
4. You need to lay 5 cm of crushed soft clay on the vapor barrier layer.
5. Expanded clay is already poured onto the clay. How to determine the layer thickness? It can be from 15 cm or more.
6. A screed is laid on the expanded clay - a layer of cement and sand. This will protect the material.

1. There is a foam one ceiling tiles– it itself protects against the cold quite well.
2. Don't stop at insulating the ceiling. Walls and floors can also transmit heat.
3. If difficulties arise when insulating with your own hands, it is better to turn to craftsmen who will do everything correctly. An unreliably insulated ceiling brings virtually no benefit.
4. Fitting with plasterboard requires the use of a galvanized iron profile. Why is this necessary? If you do not do this, you may soon suffer from a fallen structure.
5. In a wooden house, it is better to insulate the ceiling in the summer months, so that by autumn and cold weather the excess moisture has time to evaporate.

Insulating the ceiling in a wooden house will protect the room from the inside from heat loss. If the ceiling is not insulated, all work should be done immediately upon moving in.

Houses made of rounded wood or natural timber are rightfully considered the most comfortable. Their high popularity is explained, first of all, by the naturalness of the material and good protective characteristics.

But all types of one-story buildings are characterized by significant losses through ceiling structures. Therefore, you have to fight for warmth and comfort in a wooden private house. The correctly chosen method and a well-thought-out insulation scheme are the main components of success in this fight.

Methods of thermal insulation of wooden ceiling structures

Numerous technologies for insulating ceilings in wooden houses are divided into two groups according to the location of installation of the insulation:

• from the side of residential premises (from the inside);
• from the attic (outside).

Both approaches have their advantages and disadvantages. Thus, insulating the ceiling in a wooden house from the inside will save money, but will reduce the useful volume of living quarters, and insulation installed outside will require additional protection from mechanical damage and more powerful hydro- and vapor barrier, which will entail an increase in insulation costs.

IN classic version The thermal insulation layer has the following structure:

• external steam and waterproofing;
• insulation material;
• sheathing;
• internal vapor barrier;
• sheathing

How to insulate the ceiling?

All materials that can be used to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house are divided into three groups:

• bulk;
• soft;
• solid.

The first group is used only for external insulation. The other two are used in both methods.
The most popular representatives of each group, respectively, are:

• sawdust;
• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam.

The most in a simple way insulation is finishing the ceiling from the inside with foam plastic. Its advantages include:

• relatively low cost of material;
• light weight;
• unique steam and moisture repellent properties;
• ease of installation;
• environmental friendliness.

Stages of work

First, a waterproofing layer is attached to the suspended ceiling between the beams. You can use glassine for this, plastic film.

Fixed on top of the waterproofing foam boards using special glue. After applying the adhesive to the insulation, you should wait 1 - 2 minutes and press it tightly to the ceiling. The slabs are mounted end-to-end. If there are gaps between thermal insulation products, they are sealed with polyurethane foam. It is better to additionally fix the insulation on the surface using self-tapping screws with washers of large diameter (10-14 mm).

After installing the slabs, lay a layer of glassine or other vapor barrier material. The whole process is completed by cladding and decorative finishing of the ceiling structures.

Modern industry produces foam sheets different colors and textures. The front surface may contain an abstract pattern, which, if chosen correctly, will enrich the interior of the room.

Sawdust

Sawdust is a natural material and has proven itself for thermal protection wooden houses. This technology is somewhat more complicated than gluing with foam plastic. The main difficulty lies in the preparation, or more precisely, the manufacture of insulation, which is a cement-sawdust mixture.

Preparation of the composition

It is better to use medium-sized shavings. Thyrsa is not suitable for insulation. Its volume contains very little air. The sawdust should not be fresh. The raw materials are treated with antiseptic and antifungal compounds. The most simple solution this task is soaking wood shavings in a solution of copper sulfate, after which it should be thoroughly dried.

The required volume of sawdust is equal to the planned volume of the insulating layer, the recommended thickness of which is 20 centimeters.

The process of preparing a cement-sawdust mixture consists of the following steps:

• in a spacious container (a trough with sides 25-30 cm), prepare “cement milk” by mixing water with cement in a ratio of ten to one, and mix thoroughly;
• Sawdust is added to the resulting mixture, which during the mixing process should be evenly covered with a layer of solution.

Surface preparation

Before you begin making insulation, you should prepare the area for its application. This preparation includes the following:

• dismantling the attic floor;
• cleaning the space between the joists from debris and other foreign objects;
• treatment of all available wooden floor structures with antifungal and antiseptic agents;
• laying a vapor barrier carpet (as insulation, you can use thick polyethylene film overlapped on the joists).

Application of insulating composition

Next, the prepared cement-sawdust mixture is scattered over the floor area and lightly compacted. The insulation must be evenly distributed between the floor joists. After complete drying, the resulting coating can be walked on.

One of the main advantages of this method of ceiling insulation is the low cost of materials. First of all, this concerns sawdust, which, with some effort, can be purchased for free.

Mineral wool

A popular method of insulating a wooden ceiling is using mineral wool. According to their own thermal insulation characteristics This material is superior to foam. The installation process is relatively simple.

Vapor barrier layer

A vapor barrier is laid on the outer surface of the ceiling, freed from the coating and cleared of debris and foreign objects. As with sawdust, thick plastic film will do.

Install it with an overlap of about 10 cm. The seams are taped.

Installation of insulation

Mineral wool is produced in slabs and rolls. Using roll material the cotton wool is unwound along the beams.

The second layer of insulation is laid in the opposite direction, covering the beams and joint areas.

For additional fixation of the insulation strips, you can use nails, the heads of which should be slightly “recessed” into the top layer of the material.

Waterproofing

One of the few disadvantages of mineral wool, but quite significant, is its hygroscopicity. It is very easily saturated with moisture, which has an extremely negative effect on it. thermal insulation properties. Therefore, the insulation layer must have reliable external waterproofing.

Lay it on top of the mineral wool, overlapping it and gluing the seams.

Finishing layer

If the attic is not in use, then a cement-sand screed can be applied on top of the insulating structure. When arranging residential attics, floor boards or laminate are installed.

Insulating the ceiling of a private house is a relatively simple technological process. Performing these works does not require special skills. With the desire and knowledge of the main technological aspects, everyone is able to cope with this task independently.

During the cold season, any house loses heat due to leaks at the joints of building structures, cracks in windows and doors, as well as due to thermal radiation from walls, floors and ceilings into the surrounding space. At the same time, ceilings and roofs account for 15 to 45% of all heat losses. Therefore, the ceiling must be insulated, eliminating heat loss due to the release of heated air and due to heat transfer. Most insulation methods do not require expensive equipment or special qualifications of workers. They are quite capable of doing the work of insulating a house with their own hands.

In addition to the most important task - heat preservation - thermal insulation work also solves one more - maintaining optimal humidity. For this, in addition to insulation materials, vapor barrier and waterproofing membranes are used to prevent condensation from accumulating on ceilings and walls. Semi-permeable membrane films allow water vapor to pass through them in one direction and do not allow moisture to pass through in the opposite direction.

General scheme of ceiling and roof insulation

Ceiling and roof insulation schemes

From the point of view of insulation, all roofs are divided into two types:

• Warm. Under the roofing material there are several layers: vapor barrier, ceiling insulation and waterproofing. They are held in place by battens - spatial structures attached to the rafters. The ceiling of attic rooms is insulated according to exactly this scheme.
• Cold. They have a layer of roofing material and a load-bearing structure and a layer of vapor and waterproofing placed underneath them. Air gap in the attic is an additional barrier to heat loss. The ceiling located under the so-called cold roof must be insulated and waterproofed.

Features of ceiling insulation

The main feature of insulation flat ceiling– the impossibility of arranging condensate drainage, as is done for sloping roofs. Therefore, almost all insulation solutions are aimed at removing water vapor upward, ensuring its unhindered passage through all layers.

Cold overlap

How to properly insulate a ceiling in a cold attic? Air gaps are left above a cold or heat-conducting ceiling (for example, concrete). The first, auxiliary between the vapor barrier film and the insulation, comes into effect when large differences temperature and heavy condensation. It must be well ventilated. It is easier to make the main gap between the insulation and the waterproofing layer ventilated - just leave a small gap around the perimeter. It is preferable to insulate a cold ceiling both from above and from below. The insulation used for the ceiling located under a cold attic must be moisture resistant.

Warm ceiling

A floor made of materials with low thermal conductivity, such as wood, is called warm. Such floors, which themselves serve as a heat insulator, need only be insulated from above. Even if condensation forms due to extreme temperature changes, it will be absorbed into wooden structures, without changing their properties, and will subsequently evaporate. As a rule, this process is invisible to the inhabitants.

The vapor barrier is laid on the ceiling without a gap, then the insulation is laid. The air gap between the thermal insulation layer and the hydrobarrier membrane should also be left and will provide the possibility of its ventilation.

Insulation materials

There is no clear answer to the question of which insulation is better. The choice is determined by several factors, such as:

• thermal insulation properties;
• ceiling design features;
• price;
• qualification and equipment requirements
• availability of materials.

Materials for insulation are divided into basic and auxiliary. The auxiliary ones include barrier and membrane ones.

Barriers and membranes

Vapor barriers

Vapor barriers are needed to prevent water vapor from passing through them. For their production, polypropylene films with a thickness of over 55 microns are used.

Polyethylene is unsuitable as a vapor barrier - over time, due to temperature fluctuations, it cracks and begins to let vapor through. However, if you solder a layer of polyethylene and a layer of foil, you get a high-quality vapor barrier.

Folgoizols also provide a layer of fibrous nonwoven fabric padding polyester type. This layer collects moisture from the insulation and carries it away through capillaries. If it is present, there is no need to create an additional air gap above the cold ceiling.

Membranes

Multilayer reinforced membrane materials allow vapor to pass in one direction and retain moisture in the opposite direction. The reinforcing mesh layer ensures the strength of the film, does not allow it to sag and guarantees the constancy of the size of the main air gap.

Membranes with a reinforcing layer

Read also - do it yourself.

Membranes for installation under roofing have a metalized outer side. It increases resistance to weather conditions - high humidity, wind loads and temperature changes.

Insulation materials

The better to insulate cold ceiling? The main thermal insulation materials used for insulating ceilings can be divided into the following categories:

• Solid. Such materials consist of foamed plastics, are little susceptible to moisture, and are easy to install.
• Fibrous. Mats or rolls are formed from compressed fibers. Inexpensive, have good thermal insulation. Sensitive to moisture, when wet they lose their thermal insulation properties.
• Bulk. Traditional bulk materials - expanded clay, etc. The cheapest ones have the weakest thermal insulation. Ecowool stands out separately - an expensive, but extremely effective material.
• Sprayable. Modern coatings from foamed plastics. They are sprayed locally and do not form joints or seams. The best thermal insulation, very expensive equipment.

How to insulate the ceiling, everyone decides for themselves, based on their needs and capabilities.

Mineral wool

Rolled mineral wool

Most popular look fibrous materials. Produced from several types of raw materials:

• Basalt wool from volcanic rocks. High strength and density, short stiff fibers. High moisture resistance.
• Glass wool from recycled glass. Low strength, light and elastic, long elastic fibers.
• Slag from blast furnace waste. Low thermal insulation properties, low cost. Not applicable for residential buildings.

To insulate with mineral wool, no special equipment is required; the installation process is simple and quite fast. It is produced both in rolls and in slabs with insulation thickness up to 150 mm.

Mineral wool is harmful to health; during installation you must use a respirator, protective gloves and goggles.

Attention! If fibers get on the mucous membranes, respiratory or digestive organs, you should immediately consult a doctor.

After installation during use, mineral wool is completely harmless to those living in the house.

An important feature of mineral wool that must be taken into account when designing and installing is the large number of joints and junctions. They need to be done so that the gap is minimal, the slabs are laid against the guides and opposite each other. Half-centimeter gaps between slabs can reduce the effectiveness of the coating by a third.

Correct and incorrect installation of insulation

The thermal insulating properties of mineral wool are reduced until they are lost when the material gets wet. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure the removal of vapors and condensate.

Monolithic

The most suitable and popular material for thermal insulation of ceilings is polystyrene foam. It is produced in the form of 1200*600mm panels equipped with tongue and groove. This allows you to make high-quality joints during installation. In addition, cracks and gaps are sealed with polyurethane foam. The material is resistant to moisture and temperature fluctuations. Works great when insulating ceilings both outside and inside

Its disadvantage is low fire resistance. When burned, it releases substances harmful to health.

Insulation with polyurethane foam

Polystyrene foam, or polyurethane foam, is significantly cheaper than polystyrene foam, but has low strength and is prone to chipping. Suitable for insulating ceilings from the inside.

Sprayed and bulk materials

Sprayed materials are very effective, have no joints or seams, and almost do not burn. They can be effectively sprayed into hard-to-reach areas and cavities, providing thermal insulation where other materials can only be placed with partial dismantling of building structures.

The main disadvantage is the extremely high cost of the equipment and the highly qualified operator. This hinders the widespread adoption of this promising method.

Ecowool

Very promising as bulk and sprayed insulation for roofs and ceilings. Occupies an intermediate position between sprayed and bulk materials. It is made from recycled paper and has the same thermal conductivity as mineral wool. Fibers with the addition of glue are fed to the surface or into the cavity under slight pressure and harden there. When wet, it partially loses its properties, but after drying they return.

Additives in ecowool make it low flammable, environmentally safe and unattractive to rodents and mold. The material does not cause allergies and does not contribute to the development of cancer.

Methods for laying ecowool

Applying ecowool does not require special qualifications, and installation is a little more complicated than a vacuum cleaner. One of the few drawbacks is the requirement for application temperature: not lower than +23 o C

Expanded clay and foam glass crumbs (foam crumbs)

When filling with expanded clay or foam crumbs, it is necessary to take into account that its thermal insulation properties are low compared to more modern materials. Therefore, a significantly thicker layer will be required.

Expanded clay - traditional bulk insulation

A few advantages of the material are its low cost, moisture resistance and non-flammability.

Expanded clay is used in budget solutions as an outer layer, while internal thermal insulation is performed with mineral wool

Scheme of two-layer insulation with expanded clay and mineral wool

Sawdust and shavings

These materials can be attractive due to their low cost; sawdust and shavings can be obtained completely free of charge at woodworking factories. Wood shavings have a high fire hazard; sawdust burns much worse.

Ceiling insulation

Let's consider the process of insulating the attic ceiling with mineral wool. Technology varies based on specific designs and selected schemes.

Outside

The simplest and fastest method of thermal insulation is inter-beam. If the ceiling is made of solid boards, the vapor barrier must be placed around the beams or the film folded over them. If the ceiling is made of thin lining or slats, a foil vapor barrier film is attached below the beams, along the ceiling.

Methods for insulating a wooden ceiling from the attic

A complete insulation scheme requires significantly more labor, materials and time, but it is also much more effective. An above-beam double layer of slabs is added to the inter-beam layer of rolls or mats. The layers must be laid overlapping.

How to insulate a cold ceiling from the inside

When choosing a method of thermal insulation of the ceiling from the inside, you need to understand that any of them will reduce the height of the room. Minimal height loss will occur in the case of installing a suspended ceiling or suspended ceiling made of plasterboard. In this case, thermal insulation boards can be placed between the guide metal profiles.

Fastening basalt wool to disc dowels

If suspended ceiling is not planned, then the insulation slabs can be fastened in various ways:

• Still, make guides from wooden slats or metal profile.
• Secure the panels with special disc dowels. For one mat measuring 1200 * 600 mm you need at least 4-5 dowels
• Glue to the ceiling with mastic.

A reinforced mesh is glued to the lower part of the insulation, and leveling primer and layers of paint are applied to it.

No attic

When insulating buildings without an attic, in addition to solving the problem of heat preservation itself, it is necessary to ensure the removal of excess moisture, both contained in the air in the form of vapor and condensing on cold surfaces.

Scheme for buildings without an attic

Under light ceiling a vapor barrier is laid, a layer of thermal insulation material is laid on it. It is necessary to provide two ventilated gaps - between thermal insulation and waterproofing and between waterproofing and roofing material. You need to install vents along the ridge or simply lift the ridge cap so that the air can escape freely.

Special cases

Let's look at a few special cases

In an apartment building

Apartments for top floors apartment buildings are known to be cold. Especially if the builders performed thermal insulation of the ceiling in violation of the technology. Any independent work in the attic of an apartment building are illegal, it is better to spend time complaining to the construction or operating organization and forcing them to fulfill their obligations to ensure normal temperatures. But the claim process is not a quick process, and the rooms are already cold today.

However, you can quickly and inexpensively insulate the ceiling from the inside and do it yourself. You will have to “please” your neighbors by drilling numerous holes in the ceiling for dowels, but the result is worth it.

Ceiling insulation in an apartment building

Another drawback will be a reduction in the height of the rooms by 4-5 cm, and around the perimeter of the ceiling - up to 40 cm. But heat is more expensive.

On warm ceiling a system of guides is installed from wooden slats or a metal profile 4 cm high. 30 mm thick foam plastic sheets are laid between them and attached to the ceiling with disc dowels.

After this, a foil vapor barrier is attached along the lower edges of the guides. Slopes with a radius of 40-40 cm are made along the perimeter, ensuring a smooth connection between the planes of the lines of the false ceiling and walls. At the last stage, sheets of moisture-resistant drywall are attached. Curvilinear slopes are covered with foam chips, starting from the short sides of the room. Ecowool is also suitable for this.

Attic

A residential attic must be insulated. Insulation of a non-residential attic will not hurt either - this will be an additional barrier to the cold on the residential floors. How to reliably insulate the ceiling in a residential attic? The most common scheme is insulation with mineral wool or polyurethane foam slabs laid between the rafters. For vertical walls, you will need to take special cotton wool with a low shrinkage coefficient.

Attic thermal insulation diagram

Special attention You will need to pay attention to vapor barrier. In an already built house, the space under the ridge is not always available. In this case, ecowool can help out - it can be blown through temporary technological holes, which are then sealed with polyurethane foam.

Garage and bathhouse

The roof of a garage is often supported by metal I-beams. When installing guides for insulation, drilling holes from bottom to top in a steel beam is inconvenient, so the method shown in the figure is used. Thermal insulation boards are laid in two overlapping layers. Instead of fibrous materials, you can try ecowool. In this case, you can do without foil insulation, and instead lay kraft paper on the false ceiling.

Installation diagrams for bathhouses and garages

For the bathhouse, a standard thermal insulation scheme is used. High humidity the premises require the use of basalt wool - insulating the ceiling of a building with glass wool is not recommended. Particular attention should be paid to the quality of ventilation of the gaps. Ecowool must be moistened with glue. If a bath ceiling is insulated, working from the attic side, bulk materials such as sawdust and shavings are often used.

Worker skills and tools

Popular insulation methods do not require expensive equipment or high qualifications. For insulation, a home craftsman will only need general construction skills and ordinary tools:

• hammer
• screwdriver
• hacksaw
• stepladders
• roulette

When installing the guides, it is best to call an assistant. Help with cutting and laying rolled materials would also be helpful.

Before starting work and purchasing materials, it is necessary to make a sketch drawing. This will help you avoid making mistakes with dimensions and correctly calculate the amount of materials purchased.