Growing, care and propagation of indoor chrysanthemum. Secrets of growing potted chrysanthemums How to grow chrysanthemums in pots

Chrysanthemums (chrysanthemum indicum), unlike dahlias and gerberas, have a house or potted variety, adapted for growing at home. Low bushes of indoor flowers are sold in stores and decorate window sills, balconies and garden plots all over the world. Such chrysanthemums are especially loved by the Japanese and the British. Flowers are used not only to decorate the site, but also create luxurious bouquets with their help.

About the plant

The birthplace of flowers is China. In the 5th century, Confucius wrote about an elixir of youth made from yellow chrysanthemums, which was created by a healer for the imperial court. On October 9 of each year, the plant acquires special power, which can give spiritual energy, youth and clarity of mind. For flowers to give health, they must be collected by the hands of people with pure souls and good intentions. Chrysanthemums are usually collected by children. In Japan, the plants are considered the imperial flower. There is a festival where everyone drinks sake with yellow petals.

Many varieties of potted chrysanthemums have been created that are adapted for growing at home on window sills, balconies and loggias. They have a height of no more than 50 cm and are divided into large-flowered (up to 5 cm) and small-flowered (up to 2.5 cm). Chrysanthemums have different shapes and colors. Vases with flowers are convenient because they can be placed around the house or area. Containers with them are placed along garden paths, on stairs, lawns and flower beds.

The type of indoor chrysanthemums belongs to the Asteraceae family. Cuttings are grown artificially in greenhouses using drugs that slow down their development. Therefore, it is possible to obtain miniature specimens. The method was developed in Japan and does not affect the quality and healing properties colors.

Potted chrysanthemums have their own characteristics:

• perennial and annual varieties;
• the leaves of the plants are narrow and pointed, light green in color;
• the buds are small, but form lush inflorescences;
• The root system does not develop deep into the pot, but horizontally, along the surface of the soil.

Potted chrysanthemums can grow and bloom for many years. A wide variety of varieties have been developed:

• ampelous and cascading;
• lush low-growing plants - 15 cm and tall ones - up to 70 cm;
• large-flowered with a bud diameter up to 5 cm;
• small - up to 2.5 cm;
• with a spherical bush shape.

You can make a mix - a collection of indoor chrysanthemums from varieties with different terms flowering:

• early starts from mid-August;
• medium - from mid-September (Zembla variety is popular);
• late flowering period begins in November-December.

Growing

Before purchasing indoor chrysanthemums or cuttings, you must follow several rules:

• carefully examine the plant;
• evaluate the density of all parts and stem;
• pay attention to the health of the specimen, the thickness of its leaves and strength; insects should not crawl on the flower.

Doma chrysanthemum must be placed separately from other plants for 3 quarantine weeks. During the difficult period of adaptation to new (different from the nursery) conditions, the flower is susceptible to diseases. If the soil turns out to be of poor quality, it needs to be transplanted into another soil.

This requires a pot, drainage (pebbles, polystyrene foam, expanded clay, coal) and loose nutritious soil. The cuttings are planted shallowly, since its root system is located on the surface of the soil. After this it is watered. Care for growing chrysanthemums at home has two phases. This is summer, meaning:

1. 1. Lighting. Chrysanthemums do not like direct sunlight. They cause the buds to dry out, so short sun is preferable. Its brightness and time can be adjusted by curtains and blinds, thereby speeding up or slowing down the flowering of chrysanthemums. Usually they immediately choose a slightly shaded and cool place on the western or eastern side. But not from the north, where flowers can wither due to lack of light.
2. 2. Air temperature. Chrysanthemum is an autumn plant. For long and abundant flowering, the air temperature in summer must be maintained no more than +18°C, otherwise the plant’s leaves turn yellow and the buds wither. It is necessary to ventilate the room, since flowers are picky about air quality. Chrysanthemums grown independently in pots become less capricious to temperature changes.
3. 3. Watering. Flowers prefer moderate moisture, but do not tolerate dry soil well. You can water it with rainwater or add 2 drops of ammonia per 1 liter. The frequency of moistening is determined by how dry the soil in the pots is, since the roots of flowers do not grow deep, but on the surface of the soil. Chrysanthemums love moist and cool air, so you need to spray the bushes daily, bathe them 2 times a month, or place a humidifier next to them. As a last resort, you can use a jar or bottle of water. Flowers are suitable for growing on a shaded balcony or loggia. It is necessary to trim off dried stems and buds.
4. 4. Feeding. Chrysanthemums are fertilized once every 12 days, using organic or mineral materials: during the growth period of the bush - with nitrogen content, and before flowering - with potassium and phosphorus. After the buds bloom, stop feeding, leaving only watering.
5. 5. Pinching. When intensive growth of chrysanthemums occurs, it is necessary to pinch the tops of the plant so that it does not stretch in height, become long, crooked, one-sided and unattractive. After this, dormant buds awaken, the bush spreads, remaining low. To achieve miniature chrysanthemums, some people buy special remedy to slow down growth. Before flowering begins, pinching is not carried out. It starts in mid-August and lasts until the end of November.

You need to care for plants in winter too. After the chrysanthemums have bloomed, it is necessary to give them a “vacation” so that they retain their decorativeness, beauty and produce buds next spring. Before resting, the bushes are cut to a height of 15 cm, transplanted into fresh soil and kept in containers at an air temperature of about +8°C. For example:

1. 1. On the veranda and loggia, where there is sufficient lighting.
2. 2. On the windowsills of the apartment, choosing the coolest place for this.
3. 3. In a dry basement at home or in a cellar.

Water the plants no more than once a week. Potted chrysanthemums must be replanted into larger flowerpots before wintering. Since plants are unpretentious to the composition of the soil, for this they use soil to which humus, peat and leaf compost are added (soil from rotted tree leaves collected in heaps for rotting - it is slightly acidic, easily digestible, loose and quickly absorbs moisture).

Reproduction methods

The first method of reproduction is division. One chrysanthemum bush produces up to 4 shoots. Carefully separating the roots from each other, they are planted in a container with soil, 3-5 pieces each. If all the rules are followed, chrysanthemums bloom in the spring.

The second method is cuttings. You need to cut shoots 8 cm long from the bush, treat them with heteroauxin or Kornevin, plant them to a depth of 1-1.5 cm in a container with loose and nutritious soil. Cover with film to create a Greenhouse effect. It is necessary to lift it several times a month to prevent fungus from appearing on the cuttings. When they manage to germinate up to 15 cm, the top must be pinched so that a beautiful bush will later form.

Chrysanthemums can also be propagated by seeds, but this is a labor-intensive process that is used mainly by breeders.

Care after winter

In mid-March, the necessary spring work.For beginning flower growers, the step-by-step process is as follows:

1. 1. Transplant the plant into new nutrient soil. For one low-growing potted chrysanthemum, a container with a diameter of 9 cm is suitable. For 3 plants - 11 cm. All 3 cuttings should be planted along the edges of the pot with an outward slope.
2. 2. Place the flower in a sunny place.
3. 3. Start regular watering and fertilizing of the plant nitrogen fertilizers. The first one can be done only after 2 weeks. To speed up the growth of green mass, it is necessary to fertilize with nitrogen fertilizers, and just before flowering - with phosphorus and potassium. To get strong and healthy specimens, you can use stimulants and regulators.

A little later, you need to prune the chrysanthemum so that its shape is beautiful, and pinch out fresh shoots so that the plant remains miniature.

Indoor flowers can be planted in open ground in spring. This ensures their rapid growth and abundant flowering. In late autumn, they are carefully dug up without damaging the root system, transplanted into containers with prepared soil and placed in a place comfortable for wintering. Watering is carried out once a week.

If the chrysanthemums never bloomed, this means that the rules for growing and caring for them were not followed. This could be the result:

• untimely pruning;
• lack of sunlight;
• lack of feeding or its excess;
• incorrectly selected soil.

Diseases of potted chrysanthemums:

1. 1. Spider mite. To remove it, you need to wipe all parts of the plant with a sponge, moistening it in a soap solution. Then you need to rinse the flower under a warm shower.
2. 2. A light ashy coating on the leaves and buds is powdery mildew, a fungus that appears in a very humid environment. For treatment, spray with fungicide and place the chrysanthemum in a dry place.
3. 3. Fluffy grayish coating and brownish spots on the leaves are gray mold. When treating, the plant is sprayed with Fundazol, after which the flower is placed in the sun.
4. 4. If brown spots with a yellow border appear on the leaves of the chrysanthemum, this is the activity of a red spider mite. It appears at low air humidity. To combat it, Fundazol is used. In this case, you need to reduce the frequency of watering.

Homemade chrysanthemums are very compact and beautiful. They bloom for a long time and do not require complex care. These are cold-loving plants that are not afraid of drafts and frost, but love frequent watering. Let's find out how to grow indoor chrysanthemums at home and how to properly care for them.

Chrysanthemum is an annual or perennial herbaceous plant native to Asia. It is found naturally in China and Japan. It was there that this flower was first grown in the garden.

Chrysanthemums can be either high (50-60 cm) or low - up to 25-30 cm in height. Strongly cut leaves, painted light green, alternately sit on bare or pubescent shoots.

Chrysanthemums bloom from spring to autumn, forming flowers in the form of small or large baskets. Flowers can be single, double or semi-double. The color of the petals depends on the type and variety of the plant. There is no smell.

Types and varieties

Despite the prevalence of chrysanthemums, only two varieties are suitable for growing at home. These include chrysanthemum:

• Chinese. The highly branched bush grows up to 25 cm. Flowers can be either simple, semi-double or double. Coloring is different.

• Indian. Forms a bush up to 25 cm high. It blooms for a very long time and is not at all afraid of the cold.

Indian chrysanthemums are the most common. Look at their photos: their flowers are more beautiful, more magnificent and brighter.

Selection of location and conditions of detention

Chrysanthemum is not too demanding on living conditions. In any apartment there is a corner suitable for it in all respects.

Lighting and location

It is better to place the chrysanthemum on the eastern, western or northern windowsill. If the house only has southern windows, then you can place the bowl in the back of the room. The flower needs diffused light. The total daylight hours should be approximately 8 hours. Direct rays of the sun or too long daylight hours can harm the flower.

In winter, the plant does not need additional lighting. In summer it can be placed on an open balcony or taken outside.

Temperature

The optimal air temperature for indoor chrysanthemum is +10...+15 o C. This flower loves the cold very much, and when moving the pot to warm room it may shed buds. Adaptation to high temperatures is quite painful, but possible. But even in this case, it is undesirable for the air to warm up to more than +18...+20 o C. But the chrysanthemum tolerates cold and light frosts calmly. Therefore, it can be placed in the corridor, terrace or balcony before the onset of persistent frosts.

In winter, when the dormant period begins, indoor chrysanthemums should be placed in a cool room. It is advisable that the temperature in it does not exceed +10…+12 o C.

Air and humidity

Chrysanthemum loves moderate air humidity of 50-70%. This level of humidity is maintained in the room independently. However, in winter it may fall due to the constant operation of heating devices. In this case, it is advisable to humidify the air using special humidifiers. It will also be good for your health.

Chrysanthemum responds well to regular spraying of foliage with cool water. Water procedures should be done 1-2 times a week. The flower is not afraid of drafts.

Soil and pot

The soil for chrysanthemums should be loose, well-drained and nutritious. The optimal soil composition for this flower is as follows:

• peat (1 part);
• perlite (1 part);
• washed river sand (1 part);
• universal soil, purchased at a flower shop (3 parts).

It is best to keep the chrysanthemum in a small plastic pot, equipped with large drainage holes. The plant feels good in cramped conditions, so there is no need to leave a lot of empty space between the walls of the container and the root system: 2 cm is enough.

Important! Indoor chrysanthemum requires good drainage. Therefore, a 2-centimeter layer of pebbles, expanded clay or vermiculite must be laid at the bottom of the pot.

Care

Caring for indoor chrysanthemums is very simple. Even a novice gardener can handle it. Therefore, potted chrysanthemum is one of the best flowers for keeping indoor plants.

Watering

The soil in pots with chrysanthemums should always be slightly moist. These flowers cannot tolerate excessive dryness. But you also shouldn’t overdo it with watering. In summer it is best to moisten the soil 3-4 times a week, and in winter - up to 2 times. Spraying in the warm season should be carried out more often than in the cold season. For watering and spraying you need to use settled water. room temperature or a little cool.

Top dressing

Since the chrysanthemum grows in cramped conditions, there is not much soil in the pot, and the green mass of the plant increases very quickly, the soil is depleted instantly. Therefore, the flower needs to be fed often, even more often than other indoor flowers. The optimal frequency of feeding is once a week. This should be done with special fertilizers for flowering plants (they have these brands Agricola, Kemira, Zdraven). 1 g of fertilizer should be diluted in 1 liter of water and the soil should be moistened with the resulting solution. During the dormant period, feeding can be reduced to once every 2-3 weeks.

Loosening, mulching

It is important to maintain good water and air permeability of the soil. Therefore, the soil needs to be loosened when a dense crust forms on its surface.

Pinching, pinching, pruning

Pruning for chrysanthemums is not necessary, but it helps to form a lush, compact and tidy bush. Therefore, it is advisable to remove the growing points of all shoots that have reached a height of 15 cm. Short pruning of the stems stimulates the growth of branches on the side, each of which will produce new buds.

Shortening the shoots should be done after the indoor chrysanthemum has finished flowering. This usually happens in late autumn. After this, the pot with the flower is sent to a cool room for the winter.

Transfer

Home chrysanthemum needs regular replanting. Young flowers are transplanted into a container every year bigger size(choose a pot 2-3 cm wider than the previous one). For adult plants, the pot is changed once every 2 years using the transfer method. To do this, you can use the same pot, and the procedure itself is only required to change the old compacted soil.

You can understand that a flower needs a transplant by the lag in development, a decrease in the diameter of the flowers, and a deterioration in their appearance. Water does not pass through the soil that needs to be replaced. Therefore, after watering, it lingers on its surface for some time. This does not go away even after loosening.

Important! Indoor chrysanthemums are replanted in April or early May.

Reproduction

Indoor chrysanthemums can be propagated in three ways:

• dividing the bush;
• cuttings;
• by sowing seeds.

The easiest way is to divide the bush. After the end of the dormant period, the flower forms up to 6 new shoots. To get independent plants from them:

1. Remove the flower from the old pot.
2. Divide the bush into several parts. Each should have at least one shoot and a developed root system.
3. Prepare several pots suitable for the size of each seedling.
4. Cover the bottom with a drainage layer.
5. Sprinkle some suitable soil on top.
6. Place the bush in the middle of the pot and fill the remaining space with soil.
7. Lightly compact the soil around the plant and moisten it. Add a little more dry soil on top to prevent it from hardening.
8. Place the pot on a tray and place it in a place suitable for the chrysanthemum.

The planted bush must be cared for as an adult plant, and then already in the same year you will be able to enjoy lush flowering.

Step-by-step instructions for propagating chrysanthemums by cuttings:

1. In the spring, when the chrysanthemum begins to grow, cut off the tops of the shoots 8-10 cm long.
2. Remove the lower leaves so that the stem is completely bare 2-3 cm from the bottom.
3. Prepare a shallow container (6-7 cm) and fill it with peat mixed halfway with river sand.
4. Moisten the substrate.
5. Stick the prepared cuttings into it, deepening the lower part by 15-20 mm.
6. Cover the container with film or glass and place it in a well-lit place, but not in direct sunlight.
7. Make sure that the temperature under the shelter is approximately +20 o C. Regularly ventilate the greenhouse and remove accumulated moisture from the surface of the film or glass. If necessary, moisten the substrate.
8. Remove the cover when the cuttings take root. You will know that roots have appeared when the shoots begin to grow. This usually takes 3-4 weeks.
9. When the bushes grow to 15 cm in height, remove the growing point and transplant the seedlings into separate pots.

Cuttings are not the fastest method of propagation. It is usually used when many seedlings are needed from one plant. Another advantage of the method is the possibility of propagating chrysanthemums without disturbing the root system of the mother bush (without replanting).

Advice! For faster rooting of cuttings, before planting in the substrate, dip their lower ends into a solution of a root growth stimulator (Kornevin, Epin, Zircon). They should be kept there for at least 30 minutes. You can simply dip the tip of the cutting into the preparation: several crystals will stick to it. And some gardeners root chrysanthemums in plain water.

Chrysanthemums are rarely propagated by seeds. This is labor-intensive work, which is resorted to only when you want to get new varieties or propagation material vegetative way No.

Step-by-step description of growing homemade chrysanthemums from seeds:

1. Prepare a bowl and fill it with soil suitable for indoor chrysanthemums.
2. Moisten the soil and sow the seeds without deepening them.
3. Sprinkle a little soil on top: it should not cover the seeds, but only dust them.
4. Cover the bowl with glass or film and place it in a well-lit place with diffused light. The room temperature should be within +10…+15 o C.
5. Every day, remove the cover to ventilate the seedlings, remove accumulated condensation from it, and, if necessary, moisten the soil.
6. After 1-2 weeks, when the first shoots appear, remove the cover. Continue to care for the seedlings by regularly moistening the soil with a spray bottle.
7. When chrysanthemums have 4, 5 or 6 leaves, plant the seedlings in a box or separate pots. The distance between seedlings should be at least 5 cm, and preferably 10 cm.
8. When you notice that the plants are about to bloom, transplant them into permanent pots.

Important! To propagate chrysanthemums by seeds, use only store-bought seeds from trusted manufacturers. If you sow hand-picked seeds, they will produce flowers that do not have the same properties as the parent plant.

When the chrysanthemum finishes blooming, perform formative pruning and send the plant to rest. A dark and cold room (cellar) is suitable for this. If this is not the case, you can put it on a glazed but unheated balcony.

Diseases and pests

The following pests can settle on chrysanthemums:

• aphids (you will notice swarms of this pest with the naked eye);
• leaf nematodes (yellowed threads and ribbons in the shape of a worm appear on the leaves);
• spider mite (in addition to white webs, yellow spots appear on the leaves).

Aphids can be dealt with manually or by treating the plant with a soapy solution. But leaf nematodes and spider mites can only be removed with the help of insecticides (Aktar, Inta-vira, Aktellika). To destroy them, at least 2 treatments will be required with an interval of 1 week.

Chrysanthemum is also susceptible to fungal diseases. They develop when the air humidity is too high and the soil is regularly overwatered. These include:

• powdery mildew (white coating on the leaves, like flour);
• fusarium wilt (the entire above-ground part withers, despite watering);
• rust (rusty coating on leaves and stems);
• leaf spot (light or dark spots appear on the leaves).

Treatment of chrysanthemum consists of removing the affected parts of the plant, as well as spraying the flower with a 0.2% solution of Fundazol.

Another common disease in chrysanthemums is mosaic. It is viral in nature. This is one of the reasons that the plant does not bloom, or the flowers become very small. At the same time, the bush itself lags behind in growth. Such a chrysanthemum cannot be treated: it must be destroyed and the pot disinfected so as not to infect other flowers.

Chrysanthemum is one of the easiest indoor plants to care for. But it blooms for a very long time and beautifully. That's why flower growers all over the world love him so much. Plant an indoor chrysanthemum and grow a real garden in your home right on the windowsill.

The garden beauty, chrysanthemum, amazes with its variety of flowering and varieties. Few gardeners will refuse to grow plants on their own plot that will delight you with the splendor of their inflorescences. But there are often cases when the housewife bought a chrysanthemum in a pot, but does not know how to care for it at home. But we will reveal the main secrets.

How to care for a homemade chrysanthemum in a pot?

Indoor chrysanthemum is small in size. It is known that specialists grow flowers in greenhouses using compounds that reduce growth rates in order to maintain a compact appearance for the plant. Unlike open ground, care should be limited to stimulating lush flowering.

You need to place homemade chrysanthemums in pots on a good windowsill, where it is guaranteed good lighting. In this sense, windows that are directed to the west or east are most suitable. True, direct sunlight is contraindicated for chrysanthemums; it is better to shade the window. It is believed that the most suitable temperature regime for a flower in summer it is 19-23 degrees. In autumn, the flower is comfortable at 15-17 degrees, and in the cold period - at 4-7 degrees.

If we talk about watering, then in general the plant loves moisture. But keep in mind that you should water it when the earthen ball dries out slightly. In summer, the frequency of watering is reduced to 2 times a week. If we talk about winter, then water is needed less often.

When growing chrysanthemums in pots, it is sometimes recommended to spray the bushes with a spray bottle. Use settled water at room temperature. Do not carry out this procedure often: just pamper the flowers with a light shower to remove dust deposits.

It is impossible not to mention such an item for caring for chrysanthemums in a pot at home as fertilizing. Universal preparations for flowering plants are suitable. The composition is dissolved according to the attached instructions. Fertilizers are usually applied every two weeks in the summer. No fertilizing is carried out in winter.

For a chrysanthemum to bloom, it needs 8-10 hours of daylight and a slight cooling. Usually this time comes in the fall. Some gardeners stimulate the plant to form buds in the summer by covering the bush with an opaque cap after the required time has elapsed.

During the growing season, the bush is pinched several times. This is necessary to form a beautiful shape.

In winter, the flower pot should be moved to a cool room (for example, a basement), where the temperature is 3-8 degrees. In this case, the plant is first pruned. Watering is rare during the dormant period. A pot of chrysanthemum can also be left on the windowsill of the house. The plant is pruned again.

How to grow a chrysanthemum in a pot - replanting

Young home chrysanthemums require replanting every year. When the plants grow up, they are “relocated” to a new pot with updated soil every two years.

Spring is the ideal time for replanting. Also suitable in autumn, but only after flowering. The soil for the indoor beauty is selected to be loose and with a neutral reaction. You can buy the mixture, or make it yourself. To do this, take good turf soil (2 parts), mix with humus and sand (1 part each).

Propagating chrysanthemums at home

For indoor chrysanthemums, cuttings, dividing the bush and seeds are the main methods of propagation. Dividing the bush is best done when transplanting it into a new pot.

As for the cuttings, they are cut 8-10 cm long after the plant has flowered. Then the material is placed in a container with moist, loose soil. The cuttings must be covered with film and transferred to a room heated to 20 degrees. Caring for cuttings requires mandatory ventilation and timely watering. You can transplant cuttings into separate pots when you are sure that rooting has been successful. As soon as the seedlings reach a height of 15 cm, they are pinched.

The seeds are collected after the inflorescence dries.

Chrysanthemum in a pot: care and growing indoors

Basic care

Propagation of indoor chrysanthemums

• By division
• By cuttings

Subtleties of autumn flower care

And my chrysanthemum, unfortunately, died. They left the pot on the balcony for the winter, and after that it didn’t bloom. Maybe there are some other special tricks for wintering these plants for those who live in high-rise buildings and do not use basements?

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I do not recommend leaving chrysanthemums on the balcony in severe frosts. It is better to keep it on the windowsill in the apartment, just choose the lightest one for this. It is highly advisable to trim off faded buds, leaves and dry branches.

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Caring for indoor chrysanthemums in pots: home growing and replanting

One of the most unpretentious and versatile plants is the indoor chrysanthemum. Its cultivation can be carried out not only in open ground, but on the windowsills. Chrysanthemums for the home are usually presented low-growing species. The most common are Chinese chrysanthemum and mulberry. Such bushes bloom profusely and have large flowers up to 5 centimeters in diameter. The height of such plants is usually from 15 to 70 cm. Another popular variety for growing at home is korean chrysanthemum. The bushes have a spherical shape and bloom with flowers of various shades. Many people use potted chrysanthemums as disposable bouquets, but these plants can bring joy beautiful flowering more than one year. In order for them to feel comfortable, grow and bloom well, they need to be properly cared for.

Growing and caring for chrysanthemums

Growing and caring for chrysanthemums does not cause any particular difficulties even for novice gardeners. The main thing is to organize the necessary conditions and care for the flowers.

Selecting a location

Chrysanthemums are photophilous, but bright sun can shorten the flowering period. Therefore, it is better not to use windows facing south to place these flowers. The most suitable are eastern and western windows. The lighting on them is not so bright and more diffused.

It is not advisable to place chrysanthemums in pots on northern windows. Lack of sun and heat leads to the fact that the buds do not open.

Temperature conditions

Flowering of these plants begins when daylight hours decrease to 10 hours. This period begins in the fall. At the same time, a temperature favorable for the opening of buds is established. The same favorable period is early spring. If you place a pot of chrysanthemums on an insulated loggia at this time, flowers may appear.

Some gardeners grow chrysanthemums by specifically shortening the duration of daylight hours so that the flowers appear earlier. To do this, they cover the pot with the plant with a cap that does not allow light to pass through. This is done 8-10 hours after sunrise. In summer, it is necessary to maintain a temperature of +20–23 degrees, and with the onset of autumn, chrysanthemums in pots need to be lowered to 15-18 degrees Celsius.

In winter, the flowers are dormant, and the temperature needs to be lowered further, to +3–8 degrees.

Cultivation subject to these temperature conditions will form the largest number of buds and bloom profusely. If you cannot comply with such conditions, then there is nothing wrong with that. Homemade chrysanthemums will still grow and bloom. During hot summers, it is better to grow chrysanthemums in pots on well-ventilated loggias and balconies.

The plant is not afraid of short-term drops in temperature; the plant tolerates frosts down to -3 degrees well.

Watering mode

Caring for chrysanthemums involves regular and proper watering. Excessive soil moisture should not be allowed. It is better to water through a tray. But after watering, you need to drain all the remaining water from it. The intervals between waterings should be such that the earthen ball has time to dry out.

Air humidity

To provide the necessary care for the plant, it is necessary to maintain optimal humidity air. Chrysanthemums in pots are preferred wet air. Therefore, the plant needs to be sprayed regularly. You can maintain high air humidity by placing the pot on a tray with wet drainage.

Transplanting chrysanthemums

Young chrysanthemums need to be replanted every year, as they quickly form new shoots and their root system quickly fills the pot. Adult flowers can be replanted every two years. The most suitable time for transplantation is the end of September.

Flowers are replanted using the transshipment method. The flowers are carefully removed from the pot along with the earthen lump. Then flowers are placed in a prepared pot filled with a drainage layer and part of the soil. The empty spaces on the sides of the pot are sprinkled with earth, compacted a little and watered. You can plant several bushes in one pot. This way the plant composition will look more lush. Flowers are not very picky about the level of soil acidity. But it is better to choose neutral soil for them. When planting alone, pots with a diameter of about 9 cm are chosen for one bush. When planting two plants, pots are taken a little larger - 13 cm.

The first time after transplantation, caring for chrysanthemums should be more thorough, and they should be watered no more than once a week.

Pest and disease control of chrysanthemums

Diseases and pests appear when plant care is not maintained. If there is insufficient air humidity, spider mites or aphids may appear on plants. These gnawing ones small insects They feed on the sap of the plant, deplete it, and without help it can die.

It is very difficult to notice a spider mite, but after its appearance, pale dots appear on the leaves, and then a cobweb appears. Aphids settle on the underside of the leaf. You can control pests by washing them off in the shower and then treating them with an insecticide. If the number of insects is small, you can treat the plants with Bordeaux mixture.

Diseases occur if plant care is not maintained. Excessive soil moisture leads to the proliferation of microorganisms, fungi and root rot. In such cases, the flowers need to be urgently transplanted into new soil and watered moderately.

Chrysanthemums can be affected by powdery mildew. It appears as a grayish coating. In this case, the flowers can be saved using fungicidal treatment.

Chrysanthemums are almost as beautiful as garden ones. Growing these beautiful flowers does not cause any difficulties. The flowers are unpretentious and do not require complex care. The main thing is to water them in time and find them appropriate place. Indoor chrysanthemum will take its rightful place in any interior and create an atmosphere of comfort and warmth in the house.

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Homemade chrysanthemum in a pot is a low-growing plant up to 70 cm in length with large or small inflorescences. Chrysanthemum blooms in the winter and autumn months, requires strict adherence to the rules of watering, fertilizing and replanting, and needs special lighting.

Caring for chrysanthemums in a pot at home

The ideal place for these indoor flowers is a cool, well-ventilated room. In winter, maintain the temperature at 3ºC-8ºC, in autumn and spring you can increase the temperature in the room to 15ºC-18ºC, in the summer months 20ºC-23ºC is acceptable.

Grow indoor chrysanthemums, observing the following conditions:

• place the flower in the eastern or western part of the house on the windowsill;
• water the plant with settled warm water 1-2 times a week. It is necessary to create a good drainage layer in the flower pot to prevent water stagnation;
• it is important that the soil does not dry out, but remains moist;
• Excessive watering of chrysanthemums in a pot is contraindicated. In summer, spray the leaves in the morning and evening, wipe off dust from them in a timely manner with a damp cloth;
• feed the chrysanthemum during its flowering period with special mineral supplements for flowering plants; adults are fertilized every 10 days;
• In order to prevent late flowering of chrysanthemums, they need potassium and phosphorus. Dilute 0.5 g of potassium monophosphate solution in 5 liters. water, fertilize the flower once every 10 days until the buds set;
• If a gray coating is noticeable on the leaves, then the plant is affected by powdery mildew. This fungal disease can be caused by high humidity. Treat the plant with a fungicide and move it to a room with dry air.

If the air is too dry, the flower may suffer from spider mites. Its signs are considered to be brown spots with a yellow border on the leaves. Reduce watering and treat with special ready-made preparations.

Features of chrysanthemum transplantation

• young specimens are replanted annually, older ones - every 2 years;
• choose a ceramic pot that is 2-3 cm larger in diameter than the previous one, fill its bottom with expanded clay or pebbles as drainage;
• use ready-made soil for flowering plants or prepare it yourself from turf land, coarse sand, humus and leaf soil in proportions 2:1:1:1;
• remove the plant with a lump of earth from the old container, move it to a new one, lightly compacting the soil.

Be careful not to damage the roots and be sure to water the soil thoroughly after replanting. Winter is a period of rest for the plant and preparation for new flowering. At this time, it is kept on the windowsill, dried leaves and buds are removed.

Everything about caring for home chrysanthemums from planting to wintering

Chrysanthemum is a bright and unpretentious flower, associated with the warm colors of autumn and a golden garden, which can also be grown at home, in an ordinary flower pot. Caring for a home chrysanthemum is not at all difficult; it is often found on the windowsills of indoor plant lovers closer to winter, when other plants are resting after flowering. Sometimes such plants are bought as disposable ones to be thrown away when all the buds fall off, but when proper care this attractive bush is able to delight its owners with bright flowers for many years.

Plant selection and replanting

Chrysanthemum in a pot - enough miniature plant, which resembles a bouquet during flowering. But sometimes, under the guise of compact varieties, ordinary large plants are found in stores, designed for inattentive buyers. Small sizes are achieved by using special preparations that inhibit the growth of branches and stimulate the formation of buds. These bushes quickly stop blooming after purchase and can grow into real giants. Such specimens have to be planted in open ground in the spring.

For growing in apartment conditions, compact varieties of Chinese or mulberry chrysanthemum are most often used, which are distinguished by a long flowering period and do not form tall stems and long branches. Varieties can be large-flowered, with an open bud diameter of up to 5 cm, and small-flowered, with flowers up to 2.5 cm in size. Some varieties of Korean chrysanthemum grow well in a pot; spherical bushes of the Multiflora series are especially popular, they are also called spherical. On sale you can find Indian chrysanthemums, which are not intended for open ground and are successfully grown in winter gardens and on balconies.

In order not to make a mistake when purchasing, you need to carefully examine the plants, paying attention to the proportionality of leaves and stems, the presence of pests, and then quarantine them for 2 weeks. An indoor flower in a pot needs to be positioned correctly - the place should be cool. It is advisable to choose a window facing east or west. You should not place chrysanthemums in a pot on the south side - then you will have to wait a very long time for flowering or it may not occur at all. On the north side, the flower may die from lack of light. In summer, it is better to take the plants out to a ventilated balcony or plant them in open ground.

Planting chrysanthemums in a pot at home is carried out in the same way as when working with ordinary indoor plants: take a container that is not too large, put drainage at the bottom and fill it with garden soil mixed with peat and humus, or buy ready-made flower soil. Acidic soils should be avoided. Young plants are transplanted into fresh substrate every year in the spring, while the size of the container does not change. After four years of age - once every 2 years, the pot should be 2-3 cm larger. The flowering period begins in autumn, but in the spring it can be repeated if the temperature does not exceed +15-18 °C, which is comfortable for plants. In summer it is best to keep flowers at +20-23 °C. In winter - at +3-8 °C.

Indoor chrysanthemum propagation and plant care

Properly caring for chrysanthemums at home is not difficult. She loves water very much, so the soil in the pot should always be moist. But you shouldn’t flood the flower too much - this can cause rotting of the root system, fungal diseases and lead to the death of the plant. To choose the optimal watering mode, you need to focus on the living conditions. In rooms with dry air, it is better to water twice a day, additionally spraying the leaves with a spray bottle. It is recommended to place the chrysanthemum on a tray with wet expanded clay or use a special device to humidify the air.

If the plant has just been transplanted, it is necessary to apply fertilizer for the first time no earlier than 14 days later, and when using humus in the soil mixture - after a month. In the spring, they are fed with nitrogenous fertilizers regularly, once every 10 days, to stimulate flowering, and by mid-July, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, for example, universal fertilizers for flowering plants, can be used. During the active growing season, the bush must be periodically pinched to create a spherical shape and increase the number of shoots. Usually 2-3 pinches are enough.

Flowers develop best in autumn period when the length of daylight hours does not exceed 8 hours. Thanks to this feature, it is possible to achieve re-blooming of chrysanthemums artificially if you cover it with a lightproof cap in the middle of the day. When the plant fades, the shoots are cut off and placed in a cool room where the temperature does not exceed +5 °C.

Dormant period of indoor chrysanthemum

Caring for your home chrysanthemum during the flowering period is simple: you need to remove yellowed leaves, dried buds and water the plant generously. If this is not done, the entire bush may dry out. When the chrysanthemum fades, the regrown stems are shortened to 10-15 cm, but the young ones try not to be touched. In spring, it is also recommended to carry out branching-stimulating pruning.

In winter, a period of rest begins, for which you should prepare in advance. There are several ways to properly winterize a chrysanthemum.

1. Leave the plant on a bright and cool balcony or entrance. You can place it in the cellar, where there is additional lighting. At a temperature of +3-8 °C, watering should be done no more than once a month.
2. You can leave the chrysanthemum on a cold windowsill where there is enough light. But then the pruning is not so drastic - only dried buds, branches and foliage are removed. Water as usual.
3. Many owners of heat-loving garden varieties place the plants in a dark basement, trimming the bushes to 10-15 cm and watering the soil in the pot 2 days before wintering. There is no need to care for such a plant until spring.
4. Wintering in open ground is possible using covering material. Before frost, the plant in the pot is trimmed, covered with dry soil and leaves, and covered with any covering material. But this method does not guarantee that a particular variety will successfully overwinter. The florist may use this option at his own risk.

Powdery mildew on a chrysanthemum leaf

Diseases and pests of indoor chrysanthemum

The succulent foliage of indoor chrysanthemums is very attractive to various pests: this plant is especially often attacked by spider mites. On initial stage infection, it is enough to treat the bushes with soapy water and bathe in a warm shower, but if cobwebs appear on the shoots, drastic measures and the use of special preparations will be needed. To prevent the spread of insects, you should regularly inspect the plants and treat them promptly at the first signs of infection. For prevention, you can add it to water for spraying. essential oil at the rate of 10 drops per 1.5 liters of water, using this solution once a week.

Fungal diseases are not uncommon for chrysanthemums. They arise due to errors in care, especially often due to excessive watering. Plants can develop powdery mildew, which causes the leaves to become covered with a white coating and then fall off. For treatment, you need to use a fungicide, and also stop watering, dry the roots, and then water not as much as before. When overwatering, the root system may be damaged or septoria may occur, which manifests itself in brown spots on the leaf plate. With such symptoms, watering is reduced, and the leaves are sprayed with special preparations.

Conclusion

Indoor chrysanthemums are flowers that are easy to properly care for; it is enough to follow a few rules: place the plants in a cool, bright place, regularly pinch the shoots and generously spray and water, but do not overwater. Most varieties grown in pots are garden hybrids with a compact crown, abundant blooming in autumn, and sometimes in the spring.

Indoor chrysanthemums need a winter dormancy period at low temperatures. You should prepare for it in advance by choosing a place for wintering and cutting long shoots to 10-15 cm if the flower will overwinter in a dark room. If the location is light, only dried flowers, branches and leaves are removed. Of the pests, chrysanthemum is most often damaged by spider mites. The most common diseases are fungal diseases - they arise due to errors in growing flowers and excessive watering. To prevent diseases, you need to follow the rules of care and regularly inspect plants for pests.

Chrysanthemum – beautiful flower, which amazes with its abundance of color and variety of colors. From year to year, flower growers are trying to develop more and more new varieties of this representative of the chamomile family. Indoor chrysanthemums are very easy to care for and are increasingly becoming the main decoration of homes.

In this article we will talk about the features of caring for indoor chrysanthemums and how to properly grow the plant and replant it so that the chrysanthemum will delight you with its beautiful decorative appearance.

Features of caring for indoor chrysanthemums

Indoor chrysanthemum is a rather unpretentious plant and there should be no problems caring for it. With proper care for indoor chrysanthemums at home, flowering will begin within 2.5-3 months (provided that you bought a non-flowering plant).

Proper care of chrysanthemums includes regular feeding of the plant, which will ensure active and abundant growth.

In order for the chrysanthemum to please you with its appearance, it is necessary to maintain the temperature, as well as follow the rules of lighting and watering. In order for your flower not to lose its aesthetics, it is necessary to carry out preventive measures correctly.

How to choose a flower location

Indoor flowers (and chrysanthemums are no exception) require care. Caring for them starts with choice. right place for growing. Western or eastern windows are best suited.

The south side is not suitable - direct sunlight can burn the leaves of the flower, and if the plant lives on a north window, the buds may freeze and will not open in the spring.

Lighting requirements

Chrysanthemum loves light, but direct sunlight can harm it. It is best to place the chrysanthemum on a well-lit balcony and, if it is too hot outside, the flower should be shaded.

Temperature and humidity for the flower

When it comes to questions about how to care for indoor chrysanthemums, the question of the temperature at which the flower should be kept comes to the fore. In order for the temperature to be favorable for chrysanthemums, it must be observed depending on the season.

In summer, a temperature of 20-23 degrees is quite suitable for a flower, but closer to winter the temperature needs to be lowered - 15-18 degrees in autumn time and 3-8°C – in winter.

If the chrysanthemum is standing nearby heating device or a convector, the air is naturally dry and additional humidification will be needed - you can place a container of water next to the pot.

How to plant in a pot, soil requirements and planting pattern

Before you start planting chrysanthemums, you need to figure out what kind of soil is needed for indoor chrysanthemums. The best substrate for cultivation is one consisting of garden or turf soil, peat and humus or any other organic fertilizer.

It is also necessary to prepare planting material, most often it is cut from mother plant with a sharp knife. Plant the prepared cuttings in a large container so that their root system develops well and the flower becomes stronger.

It is better to make a couple of holes at the bottom of such a container for drainage and place the pot in a tray. The cuttings need to be dug a little into the ground. Water moderately, but infrequently, observing the degree of drying of the soil.

The first roots will appear in 20-25 days and that’s when they can be planted in flower pot with the same substrate. To do this, the material, together with a lump of earth, is carefully transplanted into a pot in which the plant will remain permanently.

Rules of care

In order for the chrysanthemum to feel good in the room, it must be properly watered and ensure good humidity in the room.

One of the most important components in growing chrysanthemums at home is feeding them, because the soil may not always be saturated sufficient quantity vitamins and microelements.

As for pruning, this necessary measure not only for the formation of a bush, but also for the prevention of diseases.

How to water and spray

Chrysanthemum loves good moisture, but the substrate should not be damp. It is better to water the flower with warm, settled water as soon as you notice the top layer of soil drying out.

During the most active growth (vegetation period), chrysanthemums need to be watered more actively, but do not allow water to stagnate in the root system.

The spraying procedure is not the best important element, however, you should not forget about it. It is better to spray the plant early in the morning or in the evening, at dusk. You can spray with warm water that does not contain chlorine.

Spraying is also necessary if the chrysanthemum is located next to a heating device.

If you notice the first signs of pests or disease, you can add drugs (fungicides or insecticides) to the spraying water, and you can also spray with a soap solution.

Features of feeding indoor chrysanthemums

The root system of the chrysanthemum grows very quickly, and over time nutrients contained in the soil becomes insufficient. At such moments, the chrysanthemum needs nourishment.

In order for the plant to please you with abundant and timely flowering, it is fed mineral fertilizers. For this, a solution of potassium monophosphate (diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10) or a fertilizer containing 1 part nitrogen, 3 parts phosphorus and 2 parts potassium is suitable.

Feeding is carried out once every 10 days during the period of most active growth, but if you notice that the soil is weakened, you can feed with liquid organic matter and repeat this procedure after 4 days. Mullein is suitable for this, but it is better to use chicken manure.

Trimming

Chrysanthemums are pruned after flowering to form a bush and remove diseased shoots. It is best to do this with a sharp, disinfected pruner and under no circumstances break off the branches.

They also carry out pruning to thin out the bush, removing old shoots. It is not recommended to cut the entire bush at one time; it is better to gradually shape the plant.

How to propagate indoor chrysanthemums

Many people believe that chrysanthemum is a one-year plant, but this is not so. After flowering, it can be preserved and even propagated. Chrysanthemums are most often propagated by cuttings and dividing the bush; the seed method is also practiced, but it is not popular.

After flowering, the chrysanthemum is placed in a cool, dark place and left to “rest.” Then you can start breeding.

If you choose cuttings, then the procedure itself is described above, but the method of dividing the bush is known to everyone. The only thing that must not be forgotten is to remove all diseased roots.

In order for the chrysanthemum to germinate accurately, it is better to plant 2-3 cuttings in one pot (the same with divisions). For the first few weeks, it is better to keep the planted material (cuttings) under film or glass for ventilation.

Propagation by seeds is not so popular, because often the bush does not retain its varietal characteristics. The seeds are sown in the ground in mid-March and germinate, then transplanted into a pot.

As you can see, propagating and growing a chrysanthemum is not so difficult: a little effort - and it’s wonderful garden plant will decorate your home.

Previously chrysanthemum It was grown only in gardens, and was not suitable for keeping at home. Therefore, breeders have developed varieties that can grow indoors in any season and for many years.

Indian, Korean and Chinese chrysanthemums They bloom beautifully at home. You just need to decide which ones you like best. Caring for indoor chrysanthemums at home requires general knowledge, since caring for any of these varieties will be the same.

Caring for a chrysanthemum in a pot

To grow indoor chrysanthemums, special standards must be met, since often they not only refuse to bloom, but also die as soon as they begin to grow.

Lighting

Most house flowers love light. Chrysanthemums are no exception, but straight sun rays should be avoided, as the flower will only grow in areas with diffused light. Thus, for timely and high-quality flowering, place the chrysanthemum pot in the eastern or western part of the apartment.

If the bush stands on a southern windowsill, this will lead to flowering ahead of schedule. To avoid damage from the sun, there should be a curtain or blinds on the window. A chrysanthemum located on a northern windowsill may not bloom at all due to lack of light, so the pot should not be placed there.

Thus, the ideal for the plant would be 8-9 hours with scattered sunlight. For this reason, chrysanthemum blooms in autumn, when the days shorten. If you specifically create the necessary conditions for the flowers to open, buds will appear at any time of the year.

Watering

Chrysanthemum domestica prefers moist soil. However, watering should be moderate. In spring and summer, irrigate the flower twice or thrice a week, and in autumn and winter once every 7 days. Proper soil moisture is directly proportional to the quality of life of the plant. If there is excess water in the soil, the root system will suffer, and if it dries out, the stems will wither. Ideal conditions are for the soil to always remain slightly moist.

Optimal humidity

Due to the fact that the chrysanthemum always grew on outdoors, she got used to the dew drops. It is advisable to spray the indoor flower every morning. It is recommended to do this with settled water. During the hot season, a warm shower will not harm the chrysanthemum, which will not only refresh the flower, but also remove dust from it.

If it is not possible to spray the plant every day, use artificial air humidifiers. A simple trick - placing a bowl of water near the flowers will also help additional means to eliminate dry air.

Optimal temperature

A chrysanthemum in a pot, caring for which at home requires compliance with all standards, may not please you with the expected flowering if not properly cared for. Temperature has a strong influence on plant development.

Indoor chrysanthemum will not grow where it is hot. Ideally, in the summer it will be between 18 and 23°C. In very hot times, it is advisable to hide the pot in the coolest place in the house. It is imperative to ventilate the room.

In autumn, during the flowering period, the optimal temperature is 15°C. Under such conditions, many buds will bloom, which will bloom for a whole month.

In winter, the temperature should not exceed 12°C and fall below 3°C. It is advisable to move the pot to an insulated balcony or basement, having first trimmed the plant, leaving 15 cm from the root and removing all the inflorescences.

This is interesting: in order to achieve chrysanthemum flowering without waiting for autumn, they deliberately lower the temperature even in summer, placing the pot in a cool, shaded place.

If you have personal plot, then at the beginning of summer you can plant this indoor flower in open ground. You need to take care of it in the same way as caring for ordinary chrysanthemums in the garden. After flowering, you need to place the plant in a pot again.

The soil

Indoor varieties grow in any soil for flowering flora. The main thing is that it is not sour. If desired, the substrate can be purchased at a special store or prepared independently.

Planting is carried out only in soil that has been disinfected in advance. This must be done to avoid the appearance of diseases that can be caused by pests in the ground. To do this, calcine the soil in the oven or steam it.

How to fertilize

Proper feeding contributes to the normal development of the plant. Without receiving enough substances necessary for life, the chrysanthemum may cease to delight with its beautiful blooms. Enriching the soil with liquid fertilizer is recommended once a week.

You need to start fertilizing the plant when it begins to grow. For accelerated development, nitrogen-containing fertilizers are recommended, and before the formation of buds, fertilizing is applied, which includes potassium and phosphorus. It is added in mid-summer, watering is carried out 12 hours before.

When the chrysanthemum begins to bloom, it must be fertilized approximately 2 weeks after the buds open with a special fertilizer for flowering plants. All fertilizers are commercially available ready-made; you don’t need to mix anything yourself.

Advice: To stimulate development, in addition to standard fertilizing, spray the bush with a growth accelerator solution.

Pest Control

Frequent culprits in the death of indoor chrysanthemums are pests: thrips, spider mites, aphids, and nematodes.

Due to the invasion of thrips, the leaves change shape and the flowers become covered with brown spots. Insecticides will help get rid of them; they must be used to treat not only the chrysanthemum, but also the soil in which it grows.

Spider mites make themselves known by the appearance of discolored dots on the leaves, as well as a thin cobweb. To get rid of them at the first stage, it will be enough to treat the bush with a soap solution. In case of severe damage, use acaricidal preparations.

When infested by aphids, the leaves of the flower curl and subsequently turn yellow. As a rule, the affected parts are cut off and the chrysanthemum is washed warm water and treated with insecticides such as Actellik and Aktara.

Nematodes contribute to the formation of brown spots, after which the leaves of the flower dry out and fall off. In this case, the chrysanthemum cannot be treated; it must be destroyed along with the soil.

Trimming

For more attractive looking caring for a home chrysanthemum includes the formation of a bush. The stems are pinched.

To get a beautiful “cap”, you need to trim the main shoot of the flower at a height of up to 15 cm and remove the lower cuttings. Pinching is suitable for small-flowered stems, and this type of pruning encourages new ones to appear.

Regular procedure will help the formation beautiful bush, since when the top is removed, young cuttings begin to grow quickly.

The first pinching should be done in the spring after planting the chrysanthemum. If side shoots appear, the procedure is repeated after 1 month.

The next stage of bush design occurs after flowering in the fall. It is necessary to trim dry branches, as well as shorten healthy plants to preserve them, since the chrysanthemum will have to winter in cold conditions.

Advice: trim the bush on time, otherwise you will end up with a single stem with a small number of flowers.

How to propagate at home

Chrysanthemum can reproduce in three ways:

1. Seeds. This method is difficult, requires more attention and time. Prepare soil containing humus and peat in equal parts, disinfect it or purchase it at the store. Place the seeds in the tray on the surface of the soil. Additionally, they can be covered with a little river sand. Moisten the substrate and cover the container with film. Place the future seedlings in a dark place, periodically ventilate and irrigate with water. As soon as the first leaves form, place it in a bright place, and then transplant the plant into a pot. To speed up development, use special medications. Care for it as you would an adult flower.
2. Cuttings. To root cuttings from the main plant, separate the stem and place it in a glass of settled water in a bright place, adding liquid periodically. After the roots appear, replant them in the ground. Don't overdo it with watering. For rapid development moisten the soil with a solution of water and roots. When transplanting cuttings directly into the ground, cover the container with cellophane and place it in a dark place, watering and aerating the soil from time to time. When new leaves appear, transplant into a separate pot. As soon as the stem reaches 15 cm, pinch off the top from it to make a beautiful bush in the future. It is recommended to root several shoots at once and replant them all in one pot.
3. Division method. Reproduction in this way occurs after a period of dormancy in winter. To do this, separate several shoots from the common bush and place them in a separate pot. If the care was correct, within a month the flower will take root.

Transplanting indoor chrysanthemum

Every year, a chrysanthemum growing in a pot requires replanting. To do this, you need to prepare nutrient soil in advance. A mixture of turf, garden soil, as well as peat and humus in equal parts would be ideal.

To avoid damage to the flower, it is moved to a new and larger pot along with a lump of earth with roots. It is advisable to feed the young one once a week, and the adult one during flowering.

Diseases

The plant begins to wither when the microclimate is not suitable for it and the conditions of its maintenance are violated.

No flowering

Why chrysanthemum grows but does not bloom, there are 2 reasons:

1. Lack of light. Do not place the pot in a dark place in spring and summer, otherwise the bush will not bloom in the fall.
2. Lack of nutrients or their excess. Use fertilizers in a timely manner, but do not overdo it with fertilizers.

The leaves are withering

Chrysanthemum may wilt due to lack of watering. Always monitor the soil moisture in the pot. Fever in the house also contributes to the withering of the plant leaves. Monitor the microclimate to save the flower.

Dew

The white coating is caused by powdery mildew. It occurs due to high temperature and humidity in the house. To avoid this, it is recommended to ventilate the room. In order to stop the spread process, remove the affected leaves and treat the chrysanthemum with phytosporin.

Important: Powdery mildew is contagious. Remove the diseased flower from healthy plants until it is completely cured.

Rust on leaves

This disease manifests itself as yellow spots that turn brown, and then the chrysanthemum leaves curl. Rust also appears when high temperature and humidity. Treatment occurs with the help of fungicides; before this, damaged leaves are removed and the flower is removed from others for quarantine.

Spots on leaves

Septoria spotting is manifested by the appearance of round black spots. In this case, nothing can help the chrysanthemum, and it must be burned. To prevent this disease, treat the plant with preparations containing copper.

Home flowers decorate the interior, creating a pleasant atmosphere and comfort. You learned from the article how to care for a chrysanthemum and make it bloom. Follow all the above rules so that the beautiful chrysanthemum will delight you not only in the garden, but also at home.

Autumn is the time for chrysanthemums. Their subtle, slightly bitter aroma and bright flowers create a special mood both in the garden and in the house. That is why the parade of chrysanthemums in the fall migrates from flower shops not only to our flower beds, but also to the window sills of houses and apartments. At the same time, many owners, or rather the owners of gifted chrysanthemums in pots, believe that the life of the indoor chrysanthemum is short-lived, and with the onset of winter and the fading of the flowers, the chrysanthemum in the pot goes into the trash. But this plant can live in indoor conditions for several years! The main thing is to understand in time that with the arrival of cold weather, the chrysanthemum does not disappear, but simply falls asleep. It is important to provide her with the right wintering conditions. This is what my article is about today.

What chrysanthemums can be grown at home?

Chrysanthemums are unusual plants and their “character” is not always predictable. But they can be successfully grown indoors. For this, most often they use the following types these plants:

• Indian chrysanthemum(Chrysanthemum x indicum);
• garden chrysanthemum, or Chinese chrysanthemum(Chrysanthemum × hortorum);
• Korean chrysanthemum(Chrysanthémum x koreanum or Chrysanthémum multiflora);
• chrysanthemum grandiflora(Chrysanthemum morifolium).

All these plants have their own characteristics, but, basically, they are similar in care to such an extent that they have one common name - garden chrysanthemums. Although, according to the classification, garden chrysanthemum is the second name for Chinese chrysanthemum.

Even simpler are the types of chrysanthemums that are suitable for growing on windowsills, in stores - "Chrysanthemum-mix". Sometimes, however, you can hear the name “Oaks”. However, caring for potted chrysanthemums at home is the same, so I think it is unnecessary for ordinary gardeners to delve into the features of different types.

Typically, low-growing and dwarf varieties are chosen for indoor keeping.

What to look for when buying potted chrysanthemums?

When choosing a chrysanthemum in a pot, you need to give preference to plants with woody lower parts of the stems. Withered, dull gray or yellowed leaves indicate that the plant is weakened and is unlikely to survive the winter even in the most ideal conditions.

Sometimes the leaves look great, and when you look closely at the underside of the leaf blade, a thin web is clearly visible. She says that a spider mite has settled on the plant.

The main thing is that the fewer open flowers on a chrysanthemum that goes to live in room conditions, all the better. The ideal option is when only fragments of emerging petals are visible from an almost closed bud.

Autumn coolness is not terrible for potted chrysanthemums, but they suffer greatly from the first frosts. Sometimes you can find frozen plants on sale at a low price. It is interesting that the flowers themselves still look very attractive, but the edges of the leaf blades “sag”, the leaves acquire an uncharacteristic dark color and in a couple of days they will dry out completely.

Of course, sellers assure that cold is only beneficial for chrysanthemums. But frozen chrysanthemums will not survive the winter in the house; they can only be used as a one-time bouquet.

When choosing a chrysanthemum in a pot, you need to give preference to plants with woody lower parts of the stems. © Elena Vetrova

Do I need to replant a potted chrysanthemum after purchase?

Store-bought chrysanthemums always have a good supply of long-lasting fertilizer in a small pot. It will definitely last until summer. But the pot is small and should be replaced with a slightly larger one with the addition of new soil. I add garden soil with a little river sand and wood ash. It is important not to bring in beetle larvae with the soil!

You can use ready-made peat, slightly acidic or neutral soil with the addition of perlite; sometimes it is recommended to use slightly alkaline soil - experts do not have a consensus on this issue.

When a chrysanthemum is taken out of a purchased pot, it is sometimes discovered that it is not one plant, but three or four. Such lush “bouquets” will bloom longer in a pot than cut flowers, but, as perennials, these chrysanthemums are unlikely to survive if they are left all together. Chrysanthemums do not like dense plantings even in the garden, not to mention in pots. In this case, either the excess plants are cut off, leaving one stronger chrysanthemum, or they are separated and planted in separate pots.

But if you bought chrysanthemums that are just about to bloom and do not have a single open flower, then you should wait to replant. At the budding stage, chrysanthemums are very vulnerable. And as soon as the first flowers open, the plants can be safely replanted.

How to care for chrysanthemums during flowering?

In order for a chrysanthemum to remain in the house for several years, from the moment of purchase it will have to be given a lot of attention, because it is a garden plant, and its life began in a specially equipped greenhouse with a special temperature and light regime on “nutrient soil”.

It should be especially noted that chrysanthemums are grown using synthetic growth regulators (retardants), which slow down the growth of stems in height, accelerate flowering and change the physiology and morphology of the plant. For this reason, you should not brew tea from petals purchased in flower shops and garden centers chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums that we grow ourselves from seeds, cuttings, or from young shoots taken when dividing a bush at the very beginning of summer get used to life in indoor conditions much easier. And, by the way, the aroma of these plants is much brighter than those of the “store-bought” ones.

When a chrysanthemum is taken out of a purchased pot, it is sometimes discovered that it is not one plant, but three or four.© Elena Vetrova

Choosing a place for potted chrysanthemums in the house

The first thing to do after entering the house in summer or autumn blooming chrysanthemum- choose a well-lit place for it. The best lighting is direct morning or evening sunlight, but bright, diffused light will also work.

It is better to protect chrysanthemums from direct daytime sunlight; they are shaded or even temporarily moved away from the window. Otherwise, the buds, even those that are not yet ready to bloom, will begin to open under the influence of the hot sun and, without fully blooming, wither.

Temperature

A blooming chrysanthemum simply needs coolness. The most suitable air temperature is +18 o C, but not higher than +20 o C. She will also like frequent ventilation of the room.

Watering

The soil should not be allowed to dry out; chrysanthemums have a branched, superficial root system. It is better to water it in the morning. With insufficient watering, the stems of chrysanthemums quickly become woody, become smaller, and the leaves become dull. But at the same time, plants cannot tolerate stagnant moisture.

Removing Fading Flowers

Fading flowers should be systematically removed without waiting for them to dry out. If there are a lot of buds in the bush, it is better to remove the smallest ones so as not to weaken the plant.

Mulching

The soil in the pot is mulched. I use dried and crushed peppermint and wormwood stems. This protects chrysanthemums from pests.

Feeding

Like all flowering plants in pots, chrysanthemum needs constant feeding (frequency - once a week). Complex universal fertilizers are excellent for this, but you can also use special fertilizers for indoor flowering plants.

When should you send the chrysanthemum to sleep?

As soon as the last flowers begin to fade, the entire bush becomes a little dull and the leaves look slightly wilted. There are no more buds on the chrysanthemum - it’s time to send the chrysanthemum to rest.

Currently, the calendar dates for flowering of most chrysanthemums have been artificially changed. Now at the very beginning of October you can buy blooming large-flowered chrysanthemums in pots, and they are considered late bloomers. Their apical buds open in November (and secondary buds, if present, a month later), flowering ends in December or January. But if this chrysanthemum was “forced” to start blooming earlier, then its dormant period may begin in November.

Korean chrysanthemums have a fairly long flowering period in open ground, according to the timing corresponding to the variety. Korean border chrysanthemums (variety “Malchish-Kibalchish”) begin to bloom very early. Their first flowers open at the end of July. The peak flowering of medium-sized Korean chrysanthemums (varieties “First Snow”, “Evening Lights”) occurs at the end of August. Tall, more powerful Korean chrysanthemums (varieties “Alyonushka”, “Altgold”, “Snow White”) have the most late dates flowering (until frost).

But at home, the flowering time of chrysanthemums grown using special technologies, regardless of the variety, shifts. Subject to organization optimal conditions If you keep a potted chrysanthemum at home, its flowering can last up to two months. Most often, the dormant period begins in November, but sometimes in December.

Wintering indoor potted chrysanthemums

After flowering, it is necessary to cut the main stems at a height of five centimeters above the ground and completely remove weak and unnecessary branches. The best place for “wintering” there will be an insulated balcony or loggia with a temperature of approximately +3°С…+5°С.

I prefer to leave the chrysanthemum in the light and do not cut off the root shoots. I lightly moisten the soil once every two to three weeks. You can also leave pots of chrysanthemums in a frost-free basement. In this case, the root shoots are removed. The basement must have good ventilation to avoid rot. Approximately once every three weeks, lightly moisten the top layer of soil.

Before putting the chrysanthemum in the basement or moving it to a cool, bright room, part of the top layer of soil is removed and a mixture of sand, peat and very little wood ash is added to the pot. I always sprinkle dried mint leaves powder on top of this mixture.

Potted chrysanthemums begin their growing season in March. This means that it’s time to transplant it into a slightly larger pot and take the chrysanthemum into a well-lit, often ventilated and cool (about +15 ° C) room.

Sometimes even in a cool, dark, dry basement it starts to appear root growth. These are thin white and pink “sprouts” with small scales; they should not be broken off. The chrysanthemum will need to be removed from the basement, moistened the soil and placed in a cool (+12...+15°C) and bright room. Light-colored “sprouts” devoid of chlorophyll will gradually turn into the usual root shoots.

The fewer open flowers on a chrysanthemum that goes to live indoors, the better. © Elena Vetrova

Diseases and pests of indoor chrysanthemums

In nature, chrysanthemums are stable, unpretentious plants. But at home they often suffer from dry air or from excess moisture in the soil, from insufficient lighting, large quantity fertilizers and thickening. Against this background, chrysanthemums are very often affected by pests and diseases.

Successful wintering of sick or pest-infested plants is out of the question. Therefore, you need to know the basic measures for the prevention and control of diseases and pests of chrysanthemums.

How universal prevention, spray with garlic infusion or a solution prepared from dry mustard or soap. Increases the resistance of chrysanthemums by periodically mulching the soil with finely chopped stems and leaves of peppermint or wormwood (freshly picked or dried).

Gray rot

The causative agent of the disease is the botrytis fungus (Botrytis cinerea). On different parts plants form lightning-fast spreading brownish-gray spots. Very quickly, a grayish-white coating appears in the central part of the spot, which later becomes fluffy.

Control measures:

Spraying the entire plant with a solution of one of the systemic fungicides “Topsin-M”, “Fitolavin” or the biofungicide “Fitosporin”. After a week it is necessary to re-treat.

Powdery mildew

The causative agent of the disease is powdery mildew (Erysiphales). The disease spreads very quickly. A whitish powdery coating initially appears on the top of the leaf blade. It quickly spreads to the rest of the plant. The entire plant is in a depressed state, with most of the buds fading.

Control measures:

Spraying the affected areas with fungicides (for example, Baktofit, Bordeaux mixture, Bona Forte). But if you want to do without chemicals, then spray the entire plant with whey or buttermilk diluted in warm water in a ratio of 1:10.

Septoria

The causative agent of the disease is the Septoria mushroom. First, gray-yellow spots form on the leaf blades irregular shape. Slowly growing and enlarging, they acquire a brownish-rusty color. At a later stage, black dots - pycnidia ( fruiting bodies) mushrooms. Dried leaves do not fall off for a long time. The disease develops at a temperature of +20…+25 o C.

Control measures:

Affected leaves must be removed and burned. The entire plant is treated with the fungicide "Oxyx" 1-3 times with a break of 15 days. It is not recommended to use this remedy in parallel with any other drugs.

Chrysanthemum nematode

Chrysanthemum nematode ( Aphelenchoides ritzemabosi) are small (2 mm), roundworms. The disease always starts from the lowest leaves. Nematodes feel good at temperatures of +13...+25 o C. Light yellow, uneven spots are located between the veins on the leaf blade. The leaves turn brown and curl. Chrysanthemum growth slows down. It is necessary to remove the affected leaves in a timely manner, otherwise the entire plant is gradually affected. Frequent mulching and low temperatures allow you to avoid infection of chrysanthemums with nematodes.

Control measures:

Ticks ( Tetranychidae urticae) multiply quickly and spread like lightning, especially at home. Temperature +20 o C and air humidity 35% are ideal conditions for their rapid development. It only takes a few days for the adult tick to develop from the egg.

At temperatures below +12 o C, ticks are in a state of hibernation. They feed on the contents of cells. The lower part of the leaf blade is damaged. Mites suck out the sap of the plant. You can see the thinnest cobweb. The leaves become partially discolored, become yellowish and acquire a “marbled” tint. They curl and fall off quite quickly. As a result, the plant reduces transpiration and photosynthesis. In addition, ticks carry viral infections and gray rot spores.

Control measures:

If spraying with infusion from onion peel(100 g of husks are infused for 4–5 days in 5 liters of water), from garlic (two crushed heads are poured with one liter of water, covered with a lid and left in the dark for five days, diluted with water - 1:1) and processing soap solutions, then they turn to chemicals.

Spray the entire plant with the Actelik insecticide (the plant is treated with this product outdoors) or the Fitoferm biological insecticide. (Aktara systemic insecticide is not intended to kill ticks.)

Aphid

Colonies of dark or light green aphids cover all parts of chrysanthemums. They suck out the sap and weaken the plant. Aphids are often carriers of serious viral diseases. Following the aphids, a sooty fungus may appear, which settles on the “sugary” secretions of the aphids.

Control measures:

Spray the whole plant systemic insecticide"Aktara". Granules of this drug are dissolved in warm water (+25 o C). The protective effect is approximately three weeks.

Brown scale insect

Round, small (2 mm) insects ( Chrysomphalis dictyospermi). They are located on the upper side of the leaf blade, in the leaf axil, and less often on the stem. They feed on plant sap, resulting in the formation of yellowish confluent spots on the leaves. They curl and dry out, and then the stems also become diseased.

Control measures:

Spraying the entire plant with insecticides “Fitoferm”, “Aktara”, “Decis”, “Aktellik”.

Dear readers! If you were given a potted chrysanthemum or you bought it yourself in a store, do not rush to throw it away after flowering. Allow yourself to enjoy its awakening in the spring and wait for it to bloom again in summer or autumn. I hope that my advice will help you with this.