Do-it-yourself wooden swing gates for your dacha. Do-it-yourself wooden gates and wicket: photo and assembly

Even with today's abundance of a wide variety of building materials Many home craftsmen make wooden gates with their own hands. Their love for wood is understandable. Hardly any modern material will surpass it in beauty and ability to enliven the appearance of any structure. Of course, wooden products are not without disadvantages, including:

high fire hazard;
low moisture resistance;
relatively short service life;
low surface strength;
large mass.

In addition, wooden gates require frequent maintenance (for example, painting). Nevertheless, there are a lot of remedies that eliminate wood from most of its shortcomings. These include:

flame retardants;
antiseptic impregnations;
various paint and varnish coatings.

We must not forget about making the right choice wood for gate construction. Most suitable for this purpose conifers tree, but best characteristics Larch is moisture resistant and durable. At the same time, its wood is the heaviest, so larch structures, gate frames and support posts must be especially strong. A cheap alternative is pine. It is less durable, but much lighter than dense larch.

Once upon a time, wooden gates were made with virtually no other materials. Even logs dug into the ground were used as pillars. Only awnings, nails, or some decorative elements were forged from iron. And today forged parts are in demand, but installing wooden poles no longer makes sense. Instead, it is more advisable to install steel or brick ones. In extreme cases, pipe supports can be masked with wooden overlays, but they will only serve a design function.

Wooden gates on a metal frame

Do-it-yourself door frames and gates for wooden gates can be made from wood or metal profiles.

Figure 1. Drawing of a wooden gate.

What the combined design looks like is shown in the diagram (Fig. 1). First, we will make such a structure; such a project is the easiest to implement, especially for a person who knows how to handle a welding machine.

To build a gate, you can use the diagram presented. You may have to make some changes to it regarding the height of the structure and the width of the sashes. It is necessary to start work with measurements and drawing up a drawing not only in order to carry it out efficiently, but also to purchase required quantity Supplies:

profile pipes 80 x 80 mm for pillars;
profile pipes 40 x 40 (40 x 20) mm for sash frames and jibs;
boards 100 x 25 mm for covering gates and wickets;
ball loops with a cross-section of at least 25 mm;
self-tapping screws for metal;
locking fittings;
steel plates for plugs at the ends of pillars;
cement, sand and crushed stone;
various impregnations for processing metal and wood.

You will also need:

sander;
welding machine;
jigsaw (hacksaw, circular saw);
drill-driver;
square;
level;
plumb line;
roulette;
shovel or drill.

Mark the locations of the supports and dig or drill holes. The diameter of the pits must be at least 20 cm larger than the cross-section of the pipes. The pillars must be dug into the ground at least 1/3 of the length. A cushion of sand and crushed stone is poured into the holes. Its thickness is 10-15 cm. The bedding is compacted and soaked in water. Pillars are installed in the pits, but before digging them in you should:

plug at the ends (the bottom plug must be larger than the cross-section of the pipe);
remove rust;
treat with an anti-corrosion compound;
cover the bottom third of the post bitumen mastic.

The supports are installed by level or plumb. Reinforcement is placed in the holes and concrete is poured. While it hardens, gate frames and wickets are made.

Manufacturing and hanging sashes

The ends of the profile pipes are cut at a right angle or an angle of 45°. The posts and horizontal lintels are assembled together on a flat surface. A square is used to check how correctly the doors are assembled (more precisely, the quality of assembly is checked with a tape measure, which measures the diagonals of the structure). The vertical and horizontal frame elements are finally welded. The jibs are cut out and also welded to the frames. Installation of shutters and gates is carried out only 2 weeks after pouring the pits under the supports with concrete.

Gate open position limiter: 1 – post, 2 – latch, 3 – leaf frame.

Before hanging the hinges, all frames should be securely fixed between the posts. After this, the installation locations for the canopies are marked. They are then welded to the supports and frames. Locking fittings are installed on the doors and gates. All structures are cleaned of burrs, scale, rust and covered with an anti-corrosion compound, primer and paint.

Now all that remains is to cover the frames with planed boards. You should know that it will not be possible to make high-quality wooden gates if the wood is not first dried in a place inaccessible to direct sunlight place (drying time for boards is 1.5-2 weeks). After drying and cutting to size, the lining is sequentially impregnated with an antiseptic and fire retardant.

Before screwing in the fasteners, holes are made in the boards. After screwing in the screws, they are treated with an antiseptic. The boards do not need to be laid close to each other. It is necessary to leave a small gap between them to compensate for expansion. An equal gap between the sheathing elements will be achieved if strips of the same thickness are laid between them. After its installation, the wood is coated with paint or varnish.

The shape of the gate trim does not necessarily have to be rectangular. In addition, the boards can be placed inside a steel frame made of corrugated pipes or corners. Support pillars can be lined with brick. In this case, mortgages are welded to them, to which the hinges will be attached when installing the gate. Under brick pillars you need to build a foundation, and the cavity inside the masonry is filled with concrete.

Wood frame

Building wooden gates with your own hands, in which not only the cladding is cut out of wood, but also frame elements, is somewhat more difficult than combined gates. In this work, the main thing is to ensure maximum accuracy in measuring parts. The shortcomings in their processing are immediately obvious, and it is very difficult to eliminate them.

Diagram of the corner connection of the gate frame with the hinge: a - gusset frames of wooden gates, b - hanging on reinforced concrete pillars, 1 - reinforced concrete pillar, 2 - leaf frame, 3 - barn hinge, 4 - overlay, 5 - slack, 6 - nails.

It is quite difficult to ensure sufficient rigidity of a structure made of beams and boards. The connection of the crossbars and sash posts must be done in a tongue-and-groove manner. The tenons are located on horizontal elements, and the grooves are located on vertical elements. Additionally, the frames are reinforced with jibs and central crossbars.

For racks, lintels and the central crossbar, you need to use a beam with a cross-section of at least 50 x 70 mm.
50 x 50 mm bars will be used for the jib.
For cladding, boards 100 x 25 mm are used.

Installation of wooden gates is carried out after:

digging pillars;
wood planing;
sawing it into blanks;
frame assemblies;
clapboard cladding;
installing hinges.

After planing and sawing, all workpieces are treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant. The tongue-and-groove joints must be secured with dowels. To do this, holes are drilled through the tenon-grooves in the doors, and wooden rods of larger cross-section are driven into them. Additionally, in places where frame elements engage in advance drilled holes screws are screwed in. The diameter of the holes should be slightly smaller than the cross-section of the fastener. Before the final tightening of the elements, the frame is checked for squareness (the verification method is described above). If necessary, it can be restored by lightly tapping the end parts of the frame with a mallet.

After assembling the racks and crossbars, the jibs are attached to the frame. They go from the corner parts of the frame to the central crossbar. Marking before cutting the jib is best done by attaching the bars to the assembled frame. The corner parts of the bars will be cut in the shape of the letter “L”, and the ends of the crossbars will be cut at an angle of 45°. The boards are attached to the doors with self-tapping screws. Hinges are screwed to the horizontal crossbars. Now the gates are hung on poles.

If you decide that the gate supports should also be wooden, install beams made of larch or oak. In addition to treatment with an antiseptic and fire retardant, the part of the pillars immersed in the ground must be coated with melted bitumen.

Making wooden gates with your own hands is not the most difficult process if you know the sequence of operations and their nuances.

First of all, you need to decide on the type of gate, as well as the type of design. This will allow you to prepare the necessary materials and get to work.

Types of wooden gates

Like metal gates, wooden ones are divided according to the type of opening into the following groups:

swing,
sliding,
lifting,
folding (accordion).

Moreover, in all types, you can install a gate if the opening is large enough, or install it next to the gate as a separate element of the barrier structure.

Regardless of which type was chosen, the design of wooden gates consists of support posts to which the gate leaves will be attached. The second element is the canvas itself, made from a frame and sheathed wooden planks(less often plywood or OSB).

The main difference between the types is the method of opening, and, accordingly, the method of fastening.

Swinging ones are hinged to the support posts, sliding ones are attached to the guides along which they will move (there are two of them: lower and upper).

For overhead gates you will have to specially purchase a lifting kit, which includes an electric motor, traction in the form of a chain or belt, as well as guides made of metal profiles.

Folding ones are assembled from several vertical sections connected by hinges. But the two outer sections are attached to the support pillars.

All of the above models are installed in the form of fencing openings not only on the street, but also indoors, for example in garages. Therefore, when the task of constructing a wooden garage door with your own hands is set, you can choose any of the types.

As practice shows, most owners of private plots, houses and garages give their preference to swing gates as the simplest, cheapest and most convenient to use. We will talk about them.

Manufacturing and installation of wooden swing gates

First of all, the dimensions of the gate are determined. Usually these are two identical doors, although there are options with different canvases. The width of the opening is determined taking into account the diameter of wooden pillars, which are used as logs or timber, round or rectangular section, other steel profiles. The minimum cross-sectional size of wooden posts is 30 cm, steel – 10 cm.

Along the edges of the opening on one line, holes are dug with a depth of at least 1 m, with a diameter of 10–20 cm larger than the pillars. Sand 15 cm thick is poured into them with a tamper. Wooden posts are treated with bitumen mastic or covered with roofing felt over a 1 m long section. The posts are installed in holes and filled with concrete mortar.

Manufacturing of sashes

To assemble the frame of the doors, you need boards 50 mm thick and 100–150 mm wide. Instead of boards, wooden blocks are also used. The main task is to accurately adjust their dimensions to the dimensions of the structure. Everything will depend on the height of the gate and the width of the opening. Therefore, four boards are prepared in length, equal height, and four more with a length equal to half the width.

The frame is being assembled rectangular shape, where the method of attaching the boards to each other matters. Previously, connections with various cuts and additions in the form of dowels were used for this. Today, metal fastening profiles are used, which are screwed to the wood with self-tapping screws. By installing such profiles on both sides of the boards being connected, we obtain a fairly reliable fastening.

For reliability, you can install a jib (at 45°) in each corner from the same boards as the frame itself, and add a crossbar across the entire width of the sash. Often, instead of a crossbar, a diagonally installed element from a board is mounted.

Note! Everything must be done to ensure that wooden gate leaves do not become loose at their fastening points during long-term use.

So, the frames of the canvases are ready, all that remains is to sheathe them. Options here great amount, the easiest one is to install vertical boards 20–25 mm thick, 80–100 mm wide. They can be installed tightly to each other or leave small gaps. As for the length of the board cladding, it should be 20–25 cm greater than the height of the gate and protrude beyond the frame on each side. Fastening is done with self-tapping screws, the length of which must be at least twice the thickness of the cladding boards.

Installation of sashes

First, metal hinges are screwed onto the doors. There are two of them, the installation location is slightly offset to the middle from the lower and upper frame elements. The sequence of actions is as follows:

loops are applied at the fastening site;
marks are made through the mounting holes;
they drill on them through holes in the frame;
the hinges are installed in place with precise alignment of the holes;
Bolts are inserted into the latter, onto which nuts with a wide washer are screwed on the opposite side.

The second part of the loops is attached to support posts. To do this, the doors are installed on bricks near the pillars with their exact location in height. The second parts are applied to the attached loops. Their mounting plate is applied to the racks, to which it is secured with long self-tapping screws. Such installation is possible if the pillars are wooden logs or beams.

If steel profiles are used, the mounting plate is attached to them by electric welding or bolts. In the latter case, you will have to drill through holes in the racks.

All that remains is to install the ears for padlock and a pin for fixing the doors in the closed position. All these devices are attached to the frame elements with self-tapping screws.

Finishing wooden gates

Since the gates are installed outdoors, they are exposed to the negative effects of natural loads. Therefore, they are treated in several layers protective compounds. The first layer is an antiseptic. Its task is to protect the wood from negative impact microorganisms.

The second layer is drying oil. This paint material consists of 95% vegetable oil. It covers the tree thin layer, which protects against pests, microorganisms and moisture. Today, drying oil is used less and less, because manufacturers offer other modern materials.

The third layer is paint, varnish or stain. There is a huge selection of colors, textures and composition.

Original finishing methods

Antique wooden gates are one of the popular types decoration. There is a huge variety of options offered, where many people prefer carved gates.

This type of finishing is complicated. To cut even the simplest figures from wood, you need special tools with the skills to work with them, experience and imagination. If neither one nor the other is available, then it is better to order a ready-made trim, which you can attach to the frame of the doors yourself. Hand cutting is expensive.

Advice! Stores sell carved elements made from thin boards or thick plywood, which you simply need to nail with small nails to the elements of wooden gate leaves.

To make it look antique, you can use painting. It also requires imagination and the ability to paint, although you can do without it. You need to buy stencils, since a wide range is sold in art stores. They can even be ordered for a specific design. And already applying painting through a stencil is a simple matter.

Another option for antique fitting is forged elements. This finish is the height of respectability. Even the most inconspicuous wooden gates, lined with forging, become a masterpiece of art. It is impossible to forge iron with your own hands if you are not a specialist in this matter. Fortunately, forged elements are sold in construction stores today. They are attached to wooden gates with nails or self-tapping screws.

Electric wooden gates

The fruits of civilization haunt most owners of private plots, houses, cottages and garages. Moreover, they become more affordable every year. For example, devices for automatic gate opening allow you to operate the gates without leaving the car.

To make wooden gates, it is better to use resinous wood. In this regard, birch is not suitable.

For fastening, use galvanized, brass or stainless steel screws. Preference is given to a bolted connection rather than using screws.

The antiseptic is applied in 2–3 layers. The next layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried.

Important! Install closers, they will reduce dynamic loads on fasteners, especially for hinges.

Taking into account all of the above, taking into account important points, making a wooden gate with or without a door with your own hands is not a problem. The main thing is to accurately measure the opening so that the closing doors do not interfere with each other and close tightly.

Good afternoon, today I will tell you about all-all methods of making gates with your own hands. In this article we will make swing WOODEN gates... But I also talked about metal gates in as much detail as possible - in a special article Metal gates – 50 photo ideas (from forging to metal profiles).

So... today you will find out ALL THE SECRETS... and all the principles... and the nuances of that how to properly make a wooden gate yourself - from scratch - without any skills in this field. At all! That is, you can be a green newlywed student... or a beginning summer resident-retirement... or a pampered city lady who inherited a village house... or anyone. If you need a NEW WICKET for your dacha or garden... then... my article is designed just for that TO TEACH you how to make any wickets brilliantly- either for yourself, or for sale to neighbors... Believe me, having assessed your skill, the neighbors themselves will come running to you with the desire to buy the same model of gate (... what a good dacha business... and fun at the same time).

Now let's get down to business... Making and installing gates - who knows, maybe this will be your new profession... with my light hand.

Here's what we'll do:

Wooden SLATT WICKETS ON A FRAME (several types)
Wooden FRAME gates (with sheathing or lathing)
Wooden WICKETS-PORTALS (with pergola-sheathing)
Wooden gates with ROUND ARCHES (designer and simple)

Yes, yes, all this - you WILL WANT and BE ABLE to do it yourself...After reading this article...

So, let's go... Chapter one... Let's start with something simple (so as not to frighten off faith in the success of the wicket project)...

Wooden garden gates - SLATT (i.e. made of slats, boards)

Everyone has seen gates like this everywhere... in old movies about village life... in your barefoot childhood on summer holidays with your grandmother... at your friends' dacha.

These gates are called FRAME... because... they have a FRAME-HOLDER onto which the laths are stuffed.

That is, this is the SIMPLE MODEL of a gate for a summer house or garden - which consists of two parts - a FRAME... and PADDING SLATS.

Here in the picture (above and below) we see a standard gate WithZ-shaped frame. That is, first we do letter shaped frameZ, and then we stuff 6-8 wide or narrow slats (boards) onto it. The hinges for hanging the gate to the post are attached to the horizontal beams of the “letter Z” of our frame.
As you can see (in the photo below)... you can attach NOT SLATS to the sides of the gate... but THICKER BAR... for the solidity of the product.

Hinges may be different - the main thing when choosing hinges is to take into account the LOAD that these hinges will bear. The heavier the gate you make, the stronger the fastening loops should be. Hinged gates are called swing gates... because they swing open, i.e. open in one direction.

Here another option THE SAME principle of creating a slatted gate (on a frame in the shape of the letter z)

But with ONE DIFFERENCE... here are the padding slats different lengths...longer in the center, shorter towards the edges.

And it turns out beautiful wave along the top edge of the gate.

Or... look see the photo of the gate below - what an interesting addition that was invented here!!! Alternating low and high slats...

By the way, the frame here is ordinary (not the letter Z), but simply two slats at the bottom and top (this is done for beauty, so as not to distract attention from the original sheathing)

... And it's worth it... look how interesting the CRATCH is made...

The slats go CLOSE to each other - they are packed WITHOUT GAPS...

but... long and short ALTERNATE...

That is, we are for the sheathing we prepare 2 GROUPS OF RACKS — LONG group and SHORT group... And we do it so that within their group the slats are also not the same in length (one central one is the longest, next to it there are 2 shorter ones, then 2 more shorter ones... and so on to the edges.

We do SACK PACKING WITH ALTERNATING groups... and sizes...that is, CLOSER TO THE EDGES we stuff slightly shortened slats... and CLOSER TO THE CENTER we stuff slightly longer ones.
As you can see... small change...(the designer just played with the long slats) - and what a beauty it turned out to be.

Now let's talk about the frame - for such SLATT FRAME WICKETS.

As we already understood...

... A FRAMEWORK for our country gate may look like not just in letter shapeZ …

Here in the pictures of the gates below - we see what can be done another frame for stuffing slats. As hourglass...or in the form of a triangle... any frame silhouette will be correct. The main thing is that it fulfills its task - holding the nailed sheathing boards.
Therefore, you can come up with your own frame shape (and this way and that way will be correct). Nothing limits your imagination. It all depends on what scraps of timber you found in your yard... and how much weight your metal hinged hinges for the future gate will withstand... (what more beams on the frame, the heavier the weight of the finished wicket will be).

Here - in fact, you have already learned how to make a frame gate...

... AND IF YOU WANT TO MAKE THIS Wicket and swing GATES - IN THE SAME STYLE, then here’s a photo idea for you... (gate, gate and fence - all made by the hands of Homo sapiens)

Front view (nice)

Rear view - so you understand what kind of frame there is at the gate... see? Curved cross beams...very nice.
(don't be alarmed bent beam shapes in the frame... we will now gradually approach this)

Here’s something else I’d like to add about frame wooden gates...

If your entrance portal to the yard is TOO WIDE, then the swing gate can be wide, double-leaf... Consist of two halves swinging in different directions. Here close-up Her photo will be useful for anyone who needs it.

Now we will talk about the FRAME frame for gates...

WOODEN GATES - WITH FRAME...

LET'S LOOK HOW THIS IS DONE FRAME WICKET on specific example from the photo of the gate below. I even I'll draw an assembly diagram such a gate - because clarity in pictures is always clearer than just “a lot of beech trees.”

Such a gate is made according to the principle -

knocked down a FRAME from the bars...
filled the frame with SHIATING or lathing (made of boards, slats, plywood)

The beams can be connected using SCREWS... long screws are screwed in diagonally... at an angle.

OR... you can connect the bars of the gate using the GROOVE-PIN method... The bars in their side have GROOVE HOLES (grooves)... and at their ends they have EARS-PINS - the ears are driven into the grooves (with a wooden hammer) and due to this, the frame elements are fastened.

On the diagram of the stages of ASSEMBLY OF SUCH A FRAME WICKET - we see at vertical bars the top sheathing - these same ears... with them they are inserted into the holes on the bottom beam - and the top beam of the frame is put on them (with their drilled grooves-holes they fall into the ears of the sheathing beams).

Of course you are interested STEP 3... you probably have a question: “What are these pins sticking out on the beams? And where can I get them?

I'LL TELL YOU. We will fasten these beams in the same way as the balusters of a wooden staircase are fastened(gee-gee, you don’t know what balusters are?) These are the same sticks that are driven into the stair step with one end and into the railing with the other - they make up the stair railing, which prevents children from falling down the flights of stairs)
Here’s what they look like... using the example of this carved BALOST BEAM... (by the way, at your gate, no one forbids you to use NOT SIMPLE... but CARVED sheathing frames - it will be absolutely super).

So these are the same baluster beams are fastened using the PIN METHOD... Here's how to do it yourself. We need a thick drill... and a piece of wooden stick of the same thickness (this will be the pins) (hmm, even simple pencils made of hard wood will do for this role, they will hold very well).

So, stocked up with a drill and pins... let's start the process. At the end of our future slats, we drill a hole of such thickness that our wooden stick-pin fit through tightly. We drill to such a depth that this stick will fit in there only partially, 2-5 cm is enough... and so that 2-5 cm of the stick will remain sticking out...

And in this way, having made pins on the beams of the sheathing... and holes on the beam of the gate frame... we will attach the sheathing beams to the wicket FRAME.

As you can see, everything is simple. According to the laws of mechanical physics (to increase strength, the pins can be coated with any wood glue).

These gates from the photo below are made using approximately the SAME TECHNOLOGY...

That is, you can come up with your designs… the main thing is to adhere to a single principle YOU NEED A FRAME... and you need ITS FILLING (in the form of sheathing with a board or batten... or in the form of plywood sheathing)

WHAT WILL THE FRAME OF THE FORM BE – it’s up to you...

See how simple it really is...

You take it and do it - just 2 steps... 1) Made a FRAME... 2) Made it FILLING. And everything is ready - drill holes, hang your new gate on the hinges... And call the neighbors to grab it...

And then... and swing gates can be made according to the same principle of FRAME + LATING and SHIRTING... Beauty... And simplicity...

A swing WICKET can have a FRAME OF ANY SHAPE...

Even curved with graceful curves... and lopsided (with an oblique slope of the upper part)... Like here, for example (photo of the gate below).

Bent FRAME elements (for the frame of the gate) - cut out from a wide thick board (or wide beam) - with an ordinary circular saw.

Here's another option for a FRAME WICKET with BENT beams... If you can order such bent beam elements, then the shape of your gate can become more interesting...

Or such a BENDED FORM can be just CUT FROM A SOLID WIDE AND THICK BOARD... Draw on the board with a pencil the rounded outlines of the future (right and left) frame - and cut it out with a circular saw. After assembling the frame– of three elements – two bent side beams and one lower straight beam.

Inside the frame - we insert a frame from a MIDDLE BEAM... two CROSSED BEAM. Filling the lower part of the wicket frame plywood sheathing(we just stuff a sheet of plywood)… and top part fill it with a beautiful diagonal sheathing of slats.

Or here’s another COMPLETELY ROUNDED GATE...

Yes, I agree, this gate in the photo below is made of metal (those who looked closely at the photo noticed)... BUT... what is stopping us from making the same model of the gate in wood. Bars... slats... yes please!!! If only there were pens with a hammer... and eyes with a twinkle...

Hint for those with an idea– semicircular elements of the sheathing... we cut out a sheet of plywood with a jigsaw... we draw such “arcs are not very wide” and cut them out with a jigsaw as in labor lessons at school... And the upper arc-shaped beam... we saw out Not from thin plywood... and from thick boards, with a circular saw.

Filling of the wicket frame can be CONTINUOUS (i.e. without holes)…

For example, you can simply nail up a wooden frame with boards HORIZONTALLY... (as in the photo below)...

Or nail it up with boards DIAGONALLY... now I’ll tell you step by step how such a gate is made...

We make a frame for the gate - we make it from beams (it can be rectangular, it can be with a rounded top)
A narrow strip is tacked onto the inner sides of the frame... tightly... tacked at an angle.
And then, onto this inner narrow river, a board is placed at an angle... and it is placed on both sides of the gate - on the front and on the back. To avoid holes... we stuff the board onto slats WITH SPACE between the boards 2 times narrower than the width of the board itself... Thanks to this, the back, back padding of the board will completely cover these gaps (made by the front front board).

Or maybe a gate fill the bottom with plywood... on top - with boards butt-to-butt... and for beauty on bottom sheet plywood sheathing fill a thin lath - in the form of a diagonal lattice pattern. And paint it one color.

IN SHORT DON'T BE AFRAID... Do it. It’s clear in the picture... it’s simple in reality.

You can start with the simplest options... Everything will work out... and you will be proud of yourself - so skillful and skilled (oh boy, he's in great demand!!!)

And also... if you have some extra money... or a good blacksmith you know... then such a FRAME wicket can be supplemented with forging elements... That is, in the sheathing of the gate, use NOT WOODEN BALOSTS... but metal picket fence– forged or welded. Here's how it was done in the photo of the gate below.

And we continue...

AND NOW IT WILL BE ABSOLUTELY COOL))))

WOODEN GATES… WITH ENTRANCE PORTAL…

Portal to another world... Oh! how beautiful and promising it sounds... But it’s really your territory... your garden... this is another world, with an atmosphere of comfort and hospitality that you and your family have created yourself.

So why not make the gate in the form of a PORTAL to happiness...

The simplest option is in the photo below. Looks good next to it tall bushes... lush trees... or a plant crawling along the portal.

And in the photo below we see how small arc-shaped wire frame thrown between the left and right support posts of the gate. The wildly blooming bindweed is specially thrown onto this iron wire pergola - and a beautiful portal strewn with flowers is created... The gate opens and, passing under the flowery arch, we feel a wonderful aroma.

Also... the entrance portal to the garden can be decorated in the form of a PERGOLA...(a pergola is columns supporting a sheathing of beams). On the “Family Heap” website I devoted several articles to these wonderful structures... see . Pergolas - how to make it yourself SIMPLE LESSONS.

This is how here - 4 beams on the left and right - hold two horizontal beams... they are covered with a sheathing of boards. The gate can be any (in the photo below we see a forged gate)

And here is another version of the PERGOLA-PORTAL...

There’s nothing terrible here either... it’s just something bad in appearance...

but in fact... when looking at the X-ray... we see what is here...

... 2 powerful thick beams each hold a BEAM WITH SLOTS... there are three slots... (the beam-column holds this beam with the help of an ordinary metal foot-thrust - they are black with 4 screws in the photo)
There are 3 horizontal boards placed in the slot...
and on top of the boards there is padding and lathing with thick slats.

All! We're done!

Your little son has already built something like this out of Legos... but your construction set will be larger, and that’s the whole difference.

The diagram, as you can see, is not complicated (9th grade drawing). They took a friend to help and started stirring up grandiose project... And we already know how to make a gate (note, a frame one) (we just learned how).

And here’s another model of a garden gate - with a canopy roof... it’s a little overgrown with bindweed... but through the green foliage you can see what’s here...

supporting columns... 2 on the left and 2 on the right...
We place a beam on each pair of columns - a left beam and a right beam.
On these side bars - we put the roof on... the drawing of the canopy roof will be in the form two silhouettes of the letter A, made from beams. You need 2 such beam beeches-A (back frame and front frame) that are connected to each other by a beam - the ends of which are nailed to the tops of these beeches A.

And the model of the gate from the first lesson of our article is a regular frame in the shape of the letter Z - and a lathing with a board - which was then (after stuffing onto the frame) cut out in a semicircle with a saw. It turned out very tender.

Wooden gates WITH ARCHED VOX…

And here is another type of design of frame gates for the garden... This is when the SUPPORTING POSTS of our gate continue upwards - forming arched bend.

That is, we made a gate... installed support pillars... hung it on the gate (with metal loops)... and we live... And suddenly we wanted to add something... And we decide to make an ARCHED VOX...

On a thick board (the same thickness as the support pillars) we draw halves of the arc - cut them out - fasten one common arc together - and install it on the support pillars - one edge of the arc on one pillar - the second on another pillar. Fastening the arc elements can be done using the same SLOT-PIN METHOD (which I talked about earlier in this article).

Here are more variations on the same theme...
A) gray gate - here we insert an arc between the supporting posts of the gate - and attach it to the screws. And we also cut out the plank sheet of the gate itself according to a round stencil.

B) green gate - to the arched structure of the supporting pillars, WE ADD PILLARS HOLDING THE PERGOL... along which the green vine climbs.

Usually these fences are always made of brick(this is the most economical material) ... and then they are either plastered ... and painted in a color you like. Nearby you can hang a flashlight(very cozy and fabulous)... and there will definitely be more greenery around effect of an old Italian house.

Or the facade of such a brick arch-fence is covered with tiles imitating stone.

And also... wooden gates can be made from RAW WOOD... or rather, processed by time... and not by a carpentry machine

WICKETS FROM DRY STAND... DRY BAGS AND BRANCHES.

If you live in an area rich in windfall and dead wood, then you don’t have to go far to get material for a gate.
Here are some delicate designer things you can do for your garden...
Precisely as garden gate I propose this option. For the front part of the house, such a gate, of course, will not be suitable... but for a corner of peace and quiet, for a lush overgrown corner of your hacienda, such a gate will be very useful (if this is permissible by the overall design concept of your garden).

And here is an example of a gate made of the same beams and branches.

That's all for today... That's how many wooden swing gates we did it today - in our minds... Now all that remains is to do it with our own hands - in life.

I really hope this article has given you COURAGE and the itch for CREATIVE EXPERIMENT.

Now the spirit of the COOPER sits in you. It's time to go look for beams and boards suitable for your idea... or, on the contrary, push the birth of an idea away from the materials available.

And this article was written (and in some places drawn) by a woman.

Because... only a woman can inspire a man to create beauty. What I actually did these two days for a solid 16 hours.
So go and create (and I’ll go and finally eat...)

Olga Klishevskaya, especially for the site

Take care of your family heaps... These are your legs and arms.
These are your ears and eyes... and a source of warmth and affection.

If did you like this article
And you want to thank the free author for this painstaking work,
then you can send any amount convenient for you
on his personal YaD wallet - 410012568032614

When it comes to installing gates in a country house or on suburban area, you should first decide what exactly they will be, because it is the gate that first catches your eye. It is from them that guests begin their acquaintance with the home, so their construction should be taken quite seriously. It must be said right away that this task can be accomplished different ways and from different materials. The choice must be made based on personal ideas about beauty, however, it is unlikely that anyone will argue that if there is wooden fence the gate should be made of wood.

Gate manufacturing

Before you make a wooden gate or gate with your own hands, you need to decide on its size and expected appearance, for which it would be quite advisable to make a drawing and calculate the quantity necessary materials. After which you can begin to carry out the main construction work.

First you need to install support pillars for the entire gate structure. For wooden gates and gates, wooden posts are best suited. Regarding the material suitable for the pillars, you should choose oak. Its strength characteristics fully correspond to the required ones.

The entire pillar, and most importantly the part of it that will be underground, must be treated with special compounds that will prevent the negative effects of moisture.

After the pillars are prepared, they need to be dug in. To do this, in predetermined places you need to dig two holes about a meter deep.

At the bottom of each of them, sand and crushed stone are poured in two layers as a protective cushion. Layers need to be compacted to achieve the best effect. After this, pillars are installed in the pits; the verticality of their installation must be checked using building level, and it is better to use water. To achieve the greatest strength of the installation, the space that forms between the pillar and the walls of the pit should be filled with crushed stone. To save money, you can use crushed brick. After filling half the space, the crushed stone needs to be compacted, then add more and compact it again, this must be done until the entire pit is filled.

The crushed stone is cemented on top for greater strength. Basically, cement-sand mixture can be used to fill the entire space, but this will entail additional material costs.

Manufacturing of cross sections

While the concrete is hardening, you need to, without wasting time, move on to the manufacture of the gate leaves themselves. First you need to build a kind of frame frame with your own hands. A wooden beam is suitable for these purposes. If we consider the process in a little more detail, then it is necessary to assemble a rectangular frame of a pre-calculated size. It should be remembered that the frame should be smaller than the finished gate.

So, the individual parts of the frame are fastened together using self-tapping screws. Depending on the size of the wooden gate, the frame can be additionally reinforced with both transverse beams and beams fixed diagonally. As soon as the frame is ready, it is covered with boards, or a solid wall, or decorative gaps are left, depending on the general style. When the gate leaves are ready, they need to be secured to posts. For these purposes, hanging loops are usually used. Usually one part of them is attached to the post, and the second to the gate. Considering the material of manufacture, two mounting points are enough - at the top and at the bottom.

Completion of work

The final stage in the construction of wooden gates at the dacha can be identified as the installation of handles and all sorts of latches and bolts. These actions are necessary not only to avoid spontaneous opening, but also due to the fact that the gate must perform not only decorative functions, but also protective functions. If we talk about how expedient it would be to build wooden version gates, then it must be said that such gates are quite practical and capable of performing their functions for at least ten years. Of course, for this, the tree must be prepared, that is, treated with special compounds that prevent the appearance of both rot and wood pests. And also for greater aesthetics, wooden gates can be coated with a special varnish.

In conclusion, we can say that if you need not only to build a practical and quite aesthetically attractive gate, but also to make it yourself, without spending much money, then wooden gates are the most suitable option. At correct installation, such gates can serve faithfully for many years and be at the same time a source of pride for the owner and the envy of the neighbors. Moreover, usually, the more pride something causes in the owners, the more envy it causes among neighbors, but that’s another story.

Photo

Video

We bring to your attention a few more wooden gates for inspiration.

For many years, wooden gates have been relevant for cottages, country houses and garages. Today, new materials and designs, methods of processing and decorating lumber have appeared, and automatic drives controlled by remote control are widely used. How to make reliable and durable, practical and easy-to-use wooden gates with your own hands? How to properly prepare, protect and decorate wood - find out about this at the planning stage to avoid mistakes.

Wooden gates

Gate designs using wood

Just a few decades ago, wood was the cheapest and most common material. Its availability and ease of processing made it possible to make fences and entrance structures for anyone with basic skills in working with a saw and a plane. Even now there are gates and fences made of untreated boards, mostly temporary products for the period of construction and landscaping of the site.

Drawing of swing gates made of wood

This use of wood is not economically justified and is far from beautiful. Modern wooden gates are an indicator of good taste, aesthetics, and in many cases, the status of the owner.

Wood is suitable for swing, sliding and up-and-over gate structures. Slats for roll options They are not made of wood due to the low strength of the joints and the canvas as a whole.

Up-and-over garage doors

Electric swing gates

Lift-and-swivel version with wood paneling

Wooden parts are often used only as sheathing for an iron frame. For sliding garage doors this is The best decision, so a wooden frame increases the weight and thickness of the sash.

Sliding gates made of wood with a wicket

How to make wooden gates with your own hands

Making a high-quality and beautiful wooden gate with your own hands for a garage or yard is troublesome, but possible. You need to have minimal knowledge of woodworking, have the appropriate tools, patience and perseverance. It is also necessary to know the principles of calculating gates, methods of their installation, types of protective coatings and methods of their application. Reasonable imagination and good artistic taste will be useful.

Selection of material for construction

Wood valuable species They are rarely used in the manufacture of gates; pine is mainly used. Weather resistance, price, beautiful texture and ease of processing are the main advantages of pine lumber.

The suitable board size for making gates is 100×25 mm, timber for the frame is 80×60 mm. After processing, the net size will be 5–10 mm smaller. When purchasing lumber, you need to understand the degree of drying and its purpose.

Edged joinery board

To make gates from wood, in order to avoid deformation, peeling of the coating, and disruption of appearance, it is better to use edged wood boards. The price of such wood is quite high, so you can dry fresh wood in a garage or utility room. It takes one year for boards 25 mm thick to dry, but be sure to reposition them and ensure good ventilation.

Woodworking tools and equipment

To make a wooden garage door with your own hands, you will need a fairly impressive list of equipment, tools and consumables. Ideally you need to have:

jointing machine for processing and shaping workpieces to the desired geometric shape;
thickness planer for bringing to one size;
miter saw for cutting workpieces to length;
grinder or belt grinder (“tank”) with the ability to be mounted on a frame for end processing;
surface grinder or orbital sander for cleaning surfaces;
compressor for the possibility of painting wood with a spray gun;
manual frezer with a conical or semicircular cutter for processing edges;
drill with a set of necessary drills;
screwdriver with a set of bits and sockets;
abrasive Consumables, fasteners;
solvent, impregnate, varnish or paint;
level, tape measure, pencil.

Hand tool

This list looks like a small carpentry workshop, but it will allow you to quickly and efficiently process unedged boards. The list can be reduced by replacing some equipment hand tools.

You should not try to plan the workpieces with a hand plane or saw with a dull hacksaw - you will not be able to produce a high-quality product “on your knees”. If you do not have a jointing machine, it is better to purchase ready-made planed material (or lining, block house).

Impregnation and painting can be done manually, although the appearance will be worse. In this case, it is better to use a roller rather than a brush, which allows you to apply the product more economically and evenly.

If the gate frame is made of angle iron or steel profile pipe, you will need welding equipment and a mounting saw (or a grinder with cutting and sharpening wheels).

Example high-quality painting gate

After measuring the opening, you should carefully draw a sketch of the future wooden gate to scale, observing the proportions. This will allow you to evaluate the appearance, think about the location of awnings, constipations, decorative fittings.
You should remember about technological gaps (at least 10 mm) for possible expansion and deformation of the structure. The recommended distance from the longitudinal parts of the frame to the edge of the board is about 200 mm; accordingly, canopies will be installed at the same distance.
If the gate height is more than 2 m, an additional middle vein is recommended. With a completely wooden frame, braces are required for strength and stability of the geometry of the structure. For metal frame Instead of braces, it is permissible to use gussets with a leg of at least 150 mm and a thickness of 4 mm.
When sewing the fabric, be sure to leave gaps between the individual boards. Placing them closely, and even more so tightening them with clamps, will lead to deformation and bulging of the canvas (with a smaller radius on the side of the frame) due to the expansion of the boards from moisture.
Placing parts at intervals with deep edge processing can hide errors in the thickness of the boards if they are not processed using a thicknesser. If you need to make the canvas without gaps, you will have to use a tongue-and-groove board or with selected quarters.

Cutting a board miter saw

Manufacturing and assembly of gates

The most logical and simple question of making a wooden gate with your own hands for a garage or yard seems to be this: measure the opening, assemble a frame to size, sew it up with a board and paint it. But to achieve a beautiful and durable result, the process is much more complicated. Approximate technological instructions look like this:

Cut off miter saw board along the length with allowance for finishing.
Mark with an allowance along the width and cut the workpiece.
Process on jointer base surface.
Using a 90º stop, machine the side surface.
On planer finish the workpiece, first bringing it to size side surfaces, and then the back one. With a final pass with a minimum allowance, process the base surface again. It is clear that when using ready-made material (the same block house), previous operations are not required.
Cut the pieces to length.
Process the ends of the workpiece (sandpaper using a machine or device according to ISO-6344 - P80). This operation is very important and allows you to achieve a smooth and even surface on the edges of the board. Subsequently, this will simplify the impregnation and painting of the product and significantly increase its service life.
Details wooden frame process and cut in the same way. If the frame is iron, make it, maintaining the diagonals and parallelism of the parts.
Lay out the frame parts (metal frame) on a flat surface and arrange the boards in the desired order.
Mark the position of the parts and the locations of future holes (for self-tapping screws, bolts; for fastening fasteners, decorative elements).
Sign the arrangement and numbering of parts. This is usually done from the bottom end, since the inscription will be visible after painting.
Drill holes in the required places.

Working with a spray gun

Impregnation and coloring of wood

To obtain a high-quality painted surface, the service life of which will be at least 5–8 years without additional maintenance, the following sequence of work is recommended:

Treat the surfaces with a grinder (abrasive P120 - P150). If necessary, fill the defects with a special wood putty and rub them in.
Soak up wooden parts impregnate (for example, Vidaron). It is better to do this with a spray gun or an ordinary garden sprayer. Follow the instructions for use - exceeding the concentration of the solution will lead to destruction of the wood structure and its fragility. After drying, treat the wood again, Special attention focusing on the ends.
After the impregnant has completely dried, sand the parts again (P150 - P180 sandpaper).
If you plan to varnish, apply stain or a special toner (alcohol or acetone based). Sometimes color is added by burning the wood with a blowtorch; you don’t have to tint it at all. If painting is carried out using products with added toner (such as Pinotex), apply the first layer.
After complete drying, manually and very carefully sand the surfaces with P400 - P600 sandpaper. It is more convenient to use a sanding block (which looks like a dishwasher).
Apply the first coat of varnish (or a second coat of toner), sand again after drying.
Apply the final coat of varnish.
After drying, lay out all the parts (according to the previously signed diagram) and assemble the gate, strictly controlling the dimensions and diagonals.
Install strictly at the level of the gate leaf.

Sanding block

Features of manufacturing sliding gates

Sliding gates for the site and garage are gaining more and more popularity due to the functionality, convenience and ease of electric drive equipment.

Sliding gate diagram

Structurally, such gates are divided into three types, each with its own advantages:

with a load on the bottom guide and support rollers on top;
moving along the top guide and support rollers at the bottom;
console type without upper and lower guides.

Wide sliding sash

To make wooden sliding gates with your own hands, you need to meet certain conditions and dimensions.

The gate leaf itself is usually a rigid frame made of a corner, channel or profile pipe, covered with wood.

Required measurements for sliding gates

Fittings and carvings - stylish decorations

In antique-style wooden gates, the fittings play not only a functional, but also a decorative role. Iron and copper strips, bolts and nails with large heads, forged elements, handles. Everything depends only on the author’s imagination.

You can make many decorations and elements yourself. For example, swept awnings can be made like this:

Weld a steel strip (approximately 400x100x6 mm in size) to the top of an ordinary cylindrical hinge.
Then heat the strip (with a cutter or in an oven) and hammer it on a flat surface. In this case, the side adjacent to the wooden plane will remain flat, and the front will have the appearance of a forged product.
Using a grinder and a sharpener, process the side surfaces, giving the canopy its original shape.

Antique gates with original fittings

Wooden gates decorated with carvings, sculptures, and bas-reliefs look rich and elegant. For these purposes, pine is not best material due to the heterogeneous structure (annual rings, which look like veins in a board spread along the length, are much harder than the rest of the material). Therefore, linden, a homogeneous and easy-to-work wood, is often used for carving.

It is almost impossible to decorate a gate with carvings yourself without the appropriate skills and tools. If desired, you can order carved elements from specialized workshops and decorate the doors yourself. It should be remembered that the durability and service life of such products is much less than that of smooth board.

Gates with forged parts

Examples of beautiful and original gates

Everyone wants the exterior of their house, garage and plot to be harmonious and unique. Installing wooden gates perfectly meets these requirements. Various styles and appearance, reliability and durability, the ability to combine with the fencing of the site, organic integration into the landscape - all the advantages are countless.

Before making a gate, you should look and evaluate ready-made solutions, this will allow you to decide on the design and appearance.

The main decision you need to make is to turn to specialists or believe in your own abilities and do yard or Garage Doors made of wood with your own hands. Think carefully about what is more important – economy or quality.