How not to miss the time when gloxinia wakes up. Proper care of gloxinia in the fall and preparation for winter

One of the most important points In the development of gloxinia there is a period of rest, because thanks to this the plant can delight with its colorful flowering every year. A rested and strengthened flower produces more flower stalks, and the flowering itself lasts longer.

When does gloxinia go on vacation?

Not all gloxinias require a period of rest. Young and small nodules do not yet need it, but bushes that have already produced flower stalks and reached adult sizes go to rest for the winter.

Tubers that have reached a diameter of more than 2 cm and are more than a year old go into hibernation at the end of October or November.

How to understand that gloxinia is preparing for a period of rest?

The fact that a flower wants to take a break can be understood by its appearance:

• in a healthy plant, the lower leaves gradually dry out;
• Over time, the entire above-ground part of the flower dries out.

Drying out as a transitional stage of preparation for winter can occur even if there are flower stalks on the bush. They may not have time to bloom, but this is not scary - the flower simply did not calculate its strength and threw out its flower stalks too late.

You cannot cut off the remaining green top of the bush - it must dry out on its own. That's it nutrients from green leaves turn into a tuber, and the flower gains strength before wintering.

How to prepare a flower for the dormant period?

As soon as gloxinia has external signs falling asleep, it is necessary to reduce the frequency of watering and completely eliminate fertilizing.

Since bright light will now only disturb the plant, the pot must be removed from the windowsill and placed in a darker place.

How to store tubers in winter?

When the gloxinia is completely dry (its green part), it’s time to start storing the tuber.

There are two ways to store nodules in winter:

1. Directly in the pot without removing them from the soil. Trim the dry leaves and stem with scissors, leaving a small stump. Lightly moisten the soil and cover the pot with a bag, tying it tightly. Once a month you need to remove the bag to check the soil and, if necessary, moisten the soil again, watering only along the edge of the pot.
2. In a bag of peat. Carefully remove the tuber and wash it, removing any remaining soil. Be sure to let it dry. Pour some peat into the bag and place the tuber on top. Spray a little water and zip the bag tightly.

Where to store tubers?

Prepared gloxinia tubers should be stored in a dark and cool room. Maximum temperature the temperature in the room should be 15 degrees Celsius, and the minimum temperature should not be lower than 5 degrees.

Gloxinia dormancy period.
In autumn, after flowering, gloxinia begins a period of rest. The plant slows down, does not produce buds, and the leaves begin to turn yellow and dry out. The leaves of such a plant are cut off and removed to winter storage. Optimal time trimming gloxinia and sending the tuber for winter storage is October-November.
Sometimes it happens that gloxinias do not want to go on their own. hibernation. If the tuber is more than a year old, then gloxinia still needs to be put to sleep.
Such gloxinia must first be prepared for the dormant period, i.e. reduce watering, move to a darker and cooler place, stop fertilizing. After the plant stops growing, the leaves begin to turn yellow, the stems and leaves are cut off.
Gloxinia tubers are stored in a dark, cool place at a temperature of 12-16 degrees Celsius. I keep gloxinia in closed closet on an insulated loggia. Some gardeners store tubers in the refrigerator, after first measuring the air temperature on the refrigerator shelf.

Methods for storing tubers:
1. The plant can be left in the same pot in which the gloxinia grew. The soil in which gloxinia is stored should be slightly moist, but not wet. With this method of storage, gloxinia must be watered, slightly moistening the soil, with about a spoonful of water. Watering is carried out 1-2 times a month, making sure that the soil does not dry out and the tuber does not dry out. You can make it simpler: place the pot with the tuber in a plastic bag and tie it tightly. With this method, there is no need to water the gloxinia and the possibility of the soil drying out is eliminated. Once a month it is necessary to check the soil moisture and the condition of the tuber.
2. In a plastic container.
Currently, various plastic containers with lids are sold in disposable tableware pavilions. It is convenient to store small gloxinia tubers in such containers. Pour a small amount of wet soil into the bottom of the container, place the tuber, and sprinkle it with soil. Close the container tightly with a lid to prevent the soil from drying out. Such containers save space during storage and eliminate the possibility of soil drying out.

Awakening of Gloxinia.
The resting period of gloxinia lasts from one to five months. After this, the tubers wake up and produce new shoots. The optimal time to wake up is February, March, April. If the gloxinia tuber has not woken up before May, it can be forcibly awakened. To do this, the gloxinia tuber needs to be placed in a transparent bag, add a little damp soil, and place it in a well-lit place, but not directly Sun rays. Usually after this the tuber produces sprouts within one to two weeks.

After waking up, you need to remove the tuber from the old soil, shake it off, rinse it in water or a weak solution of potassium permanganate, cut off the old thin roots, leaving thick roots.
The awakened gloxinia needs to be transplanted into fresh, nutritious, light soil and lightly watered. When planting, you should not bury the gloxinia tuber; you need to plant the tuber with the deepening upwards, sprinkling the tuber itself with soil no more than 1 cm. At the same time, you need to make sure that the young sprout is not covered.
The first time after awakening, the plant should be watered moderately, without over-moistening the soil, in order to avoid rotting of the tuber.

It often happens that gloxinia produces several shoots. I always leave one, the strongest one. The remaining sprouts can be carefully removed by cutting with a blade. Leaving one sprout on a tuber results in a neater bush and larger flowers.
If you want to get a more magnificent plant, you can leave two sprouts.
Cut “extra” sprouts can be easily rooted by placing them in water until 1-2 cm of roots appear, and then planting them in the soil. In this way, you can get another plant that will bloom in the same year. It should be taken into account that slightly grown sprouts with 4 leaves are suitable for rooting.

Pot size for gloxinia tuber.

The pot for gloxinia must be selected so that the diameter of the pot is 3-4 centimeters larger than the diameter of the tuber.
For example, I plant a very small tuber, about one or two centimeters in size, in a hundred gram a plastic cup, medium tuber - in a pot with a diameter of 7 cm, adult tubers feel good in 9 cm pots.
As the small nodules grow and the root system develops, the gloxinia will need to be transplanted into a larger pot.
If you plant a small tuber immediately in a large pot, there is a possibility that the soil will become sour and the tuber will rot.

Gloxinia, one of the most beautiful representatives of the Gesneriaceae family, in Europe gloxinia flower care at home began to be produced already in the second half of the 19th century. The plant comes from the tropical forests of distant Brazil. The botanical name of gloxinia is hybrid Sinningia (Sinningia hybrida).

General information

The tropical beauty received it in honor of Wilhelm Sinning, a gardener at Boston University, who “fell in love” with the flower and devoted a lot of time to its selection and hybridization. The name Gloxinia comes from the German “Glocke”, which translates as bell. Indeed, the shape of the flowers of the plant is very similar to bells.

Gloxinia Sinningia is a perennial tuberous plant with a short stem and thick dark green velvety leaves. The flowers, as mentioned above, are bell-shaped and come in a wide variety of colors and shades.

Some types of gloxinia have bright, eye-catching specks on the inner surface of the flowers, while others surprise with the beauty of their frilled edge of the flower, painted in a contrasting color. Depending on the variety, gramophone flowers can be simple or double.

Gloxinia care at home

Gloxinia is an undemanding plant and can be grown even by an inexperienced gardener. The flower loves a lot of light, but without direct sunlight, as this can cause burns on the leaves. Optimal temperature air temperature is 18-21 degrees in summer and 10-15 degrees in winter.

Gloxinia when cared for at home in which it is very “afraid” of spraying and drafts. If water gets on its leaves during spraying, dark spots and rotting on the leaves and flowers may appear.

To ensure the necessary humidity, plants are placed on a tray with pebbles filled with water. As water evaporates, it will humidify the air around the flowers.

Watering gloxinia

Water gloxinia soft warm water, so that it does not fall on either the leaves or flowers. You can pour water into the pan and leave the plants to “drink” for half an hour. The remaining water after the procedure is removed.

During the period of growth and flowering, watering gloxinia is carried out 2-3 times a week, and during dormancy - no more than once a month. When watering a gloxinia flower, you must ensure that there is no excess moisture, as the plant may rot and die.

Gloxinia dormant period

Gloxinia pleases with its flowering from April to September, and then a period of rest begins. At this time, the above-ground part of the plant dies and the tubers “fall asleep” for several months (3-4). After the upper part of the plant has completely died, it is cut off, leaving approximately 1 cm above the ground.

The pots with “dormant” tubers are moved to a dry, dark and cool place, making sure that the soil does not dry out. Accordingly, water occasionally. You don’t have to take the plants out, but simply cover them on top of the soil with a thick layer of clean and dry sand and leave them in the room.

Some gardeners, 2-3 weeks after the above-ground part dies, dig up the tubers and, having cleared them of dead roots, store them in sawdust or peat in a dark, cool place. The tubers are periodically inspected for dryness or high humidity, which are eliminated as necessary.

Gloxinia after a period of rest

Gloxinias begin to wake up somewhere in January-March. If the flower has overwintered in a pot, then dig it up, clean it of soil, and remove diseased and dried tubers. If rotten areas are found, cut them out with a sharp knife and sprinkle the cut with powdered coal. After these procedures, the tuber is left to dry for a day.

Gloxinia tuber planting

Before planting a gloxinia tuber, it is advisable to soak it for 30 minutes in a solution of a fungicidal agent (for example, Funzadol, Maxim) or a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate to prevent the formation of rot.

Pots are selected so that they are 1-1.5 cm larger in diameter than the previous ones, since, once in a pot that is too large, gloxinia will begin to grow tubers, and flowering may not be expected. The plant must be planted in such a way that top part the tuber “peeked out” slightly above the soil.

Soil for gloxinia

Soil for planting can be purchased at a flower shop. "Saintpaulia" or "Violet" will do. You can also prepare the planting mixture yourself. To do this, mix sand, humus and leaf soil. Good drainage must be ensured. Transplanted gloxinias are placed on a windowsill and watered once a week.

Fertilizers for gloxinia

It is imperative to fertilize the plant. When using liquid complex fertilizer, this is done every two weeks. If you use fertilizer in the form of sticks, then one such stick is enough for about 2-3 months.

Gloxinia from seeds at home

Gloxinia can be propagated using seeds, leaf cuttings and dividing tubers. It is almost impossible to obtain seeds at home. It's easier to buy them in the store.

Sowing is carried out in November-February in low boxes, which are filled with equal quantities and thoroughly mixed with sand, peat and leaf soil. The seeds are simply sown on top of the soil, without sprinkling, and placed in a well-lit place.

It is necessary to regularly spray with warm water and maintain the temperature at 24-26 °C. Shoots can be expected no earlier than in 2 weeks. When the seedlings grow and they have 2 leaves, they are planted at a distance of 2-3 cm from each other, and when the third pair of leaves appears, the distance between the plants is increased to 5–7 cm. They are transplanted into pots at the time when the plants begin to touch each other with their leaves. The diameter of the pots should be 10–12 cm.

Propagation of gloxinia by cuttings

It is quite easy to propagate Gloxinia at home using cuttings. To do this, select large and healthy leaves, cut them obliquely with a sharp knife and place them in a light pink solution of potassium permanganate for 8 hours. Then the leaf cuttings are placed in cups with clean water, which is changed weekly.

When roots appear, future beauties are planted in cups with soil or on peat tablets and cover plastic bags. The bags are removed once a day for a few minutes to ensure ventilation. After the formation of tiny tubers at the ends of the cuttings, the bags are removed completely, and the grown plant can please the owner with its flowering in the same year.

Gloxinia propagation by leaf

It is also possible to propagate gloxinia with one leaf blade without a cutting. To do this, cut off a healthy leaf and cut it along the central vein between the branches.

Next, the sheet is laid with the cuts down on moistened peat or sand and covered with a bag. Gloxinia “babies” are formed from notches on the leaf. They are transplanted into pots when more than 3 true leaves appear.

Reproduction of gloxinia by dividing the tuber

To propagate gloxinia by dividing the tuber, it is necessary to select highly overgrown tubers. They are cut into pieces with a knife so that each of them is left with 1-2 sprouts. Fresh cuts are covered with crushed coal and planted in pots with moist soil.

Diseases and pests

Like all houseplants Gloxinia is susceptible to diseases and pest damage. Of the latter, the “lovers” of the flower are thrips, spider mite, aphids, caterpillars and nematodes. They are destroyed using special insecticides.

At the same time, you need to be very careful when choosing a product, since some of them are capable of not only destroying pests, but also the plant itself.

Among the diseases, the most common are tuber rot, black leg, fusarium and gray mold. Usually the cause of their occurrence is excessive watering.

For prevention, tubers are treated with a solution of potassium permanganate, Immunocytophyte or other fungicide before planting. To “treat” the affected plant tissue is removed with a knife, the cut area is covered with crushed charcoal and treated with suitable fungicidal agents.

Possible difficulties

With proper care, the tropical beauty Gloxinia can live up to 10 years, delighting its owners with colorful blooms. Moreover, the older and more developed the plant, the more flowers it will have. Sometimes their number reaches 50 pieces!

• On the leaves of gloxinia brown spots- this indicates that water has gotten on them, as well as the use of too cold water for irrigation.
• Gloxinia leaves turn yellow - a sign of overdried or too dry humid air, exposure to direct sunlight or excess fertilizer.
• Gloxinia leaves curl - this happens with excessive feeding and when exposed to drafts.
• Elongated, pale leaves are a sign of lack of lighting.
• A gray coating on flowers and leaves indicates that the plant is infected with gray rot.
• The flowers remain hidden under the leaves - this happens when the daylight hours are short or the temperature is too low.

In winter, there is a high probability that gloxinia may die, so the plant is sent to a dark, cool place, placed in artificial sleep to recover. When should you take out gloxinia so as not to miscalculate the time of awakening? You will learn about this in today's article.

Gloxinia should wake up after forced period peace. For this to happen, the plant tuber must be stored correctly.

Storage conditions for gloxinia in winter:

• Cool and dark place;
• Protection from moisture;
• Rest no longer than 4 months;
• Do not dry completely - water occasionally;

Already sent on vacation adult, a little tired gloxinia. Young flowers do not have time to form a tuber of sufficient size. It may noticeably rot, deteriorate, or not awaken - there is a high probability of losing the plant.

When to remove gloxinia from a dark place: at the beginning or end of March. Look at when the sprouts appear - a signal about the awakening of gloxinia. Before possible awakening, there is no need to remove or disturb the gloxinia.

How to awaken gloxinia after hibernation?

We take the gloxinia out of a dark place and expose it to the light. At the beginning of spring, the lighting will not be intense, so there is no need to worry about the condition of the flower. Enter watering. Moisturizing will promote the formation of new shoots. You will stimulate their development and watch how the flower gradually forms a beautiful flower head. Basically, gloxinia should form at least 1-2 shoots, but if this does not happen, it’s time to look for the reasons.

Gloxinia did not wake up: causes and ways to eliminate the consequences

Improper storage, as we noted above, can affect the awakening of gloxinia. Before the dormant period, make sure that you are familiar with all the rules for caring for the plant in winter.

Why gloxinia does not wake up:

• The tuber has dried up;
• Low quality plant;
• Young plant;
• Rotted or flooded;

Place in a dark place- closet, closet, under the bathtub - you don’t need to forget about moisturizing until the beginning of spring. Periodically check the condition of the soil mixture, adding water as necessary. The overdried tuber can be placed under plastic film or package. Add damp sphagnum moss to your home greenhouse and tie it up. Reanimation should help the gloxinia to re-absorb moisture, but it is better to inspect the tuber.

Blackened or noticeably rotten tuber Gloxinia is no longer suitable for cultivation. Most likely, the storage conditions were not suitable. Perhaps intense watering or a damp, cold place affected its condition.

A young plant or low-quality tuber also slows down its development. Young gloxinia is not sent for storage, but potentially low-quality tubers treated with “Fitosporin” before the rest period. You can also soak it in a weak solution of potassium permanganate to strengthen it and protect it from subsequent pest damage. Plant the gloxinia tuber after dormancy in a dark place in a nutrient substrate - store-bought soil is depleted and is not suitable for forcing.

↓ Write in the comments how do you know when to take gloxinia out of a dark place? When did your pet beauty start waking up?

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06 Mar 2018

Gloxinia is a beautiful indoor flower , which can compete in popularity with indoor violet. Gloxinia and violet are relatives and belong to the same family Gesneriaceae. Their common features- velvety leaves collected in a rosette.

Gloxinia stands out for its flowers - large bells, they are compared to gramophones. Gloxinia flowers come in different colors: pink, scarlet, burgundy, lilac, purple, with a bright border, speckled, terry-shaped, with corrugated edges. The buds are single, each on a long stalk. After opening, the flower can last a week, but gloxinia bloom lasts from one month to six months, depending on the strength of the tuber and care of the plant.

Unlike violets, gloxinia has a tuber, which requires a period of rest. In autumn, after flowering ends, the above-ground part of the plant dries up, the tuber sleeps until spring. In order for gloxinia to bloom magnificently, it is necessary to provide the plant with a year-round cycle: in the spring - the awakening of the tuber and the growth of green mass, in the summer - flowering, in the fall - the plant goes into a dormant state, in the winter - storing the tuber in a dormant state. Each stage V growing gloxinia at home conditions Let's study it in detail.

Gloxinia tubers:

The basis indoor flower- tuber, you can buy it. When growing gloxinia from seeds or through rooting a leaf or cutting, you will receive your flower tubers. The gloxinia tuber is flattened, with small indentations on its upper part. A healthy tuber with a smooth surface, hard, not wrinkled, without dents or wounds. The size of an adult tuber is 4-6 cm in diameter. After 3-4 years of age, the tubers age, bloom poorly, and may not germinate.

After purchasing gloxinia tubers or after a period of storage, it is recommended to disinfect them and stimulate them to germinate. To do this, the tubers are soaked for no more than half an hour in a solution of potassium permanganate or with Fitosporin to prevent the appearance of rot. Add drops of “Zircon” or “Epin” (1 drop per 100 ml) to the soaking solution to stimulate tubers to germinate. After soaking and drying, additionally spray purchased flower tubers with “Fitoverm” or “Aktelik” to disinfect them from pests and their larvae. For disinfection, cuts and wounds are dried, lubricated with brilliant green or sprinkled with charcoal.

After soaking, you do not need to immediately plant the tubers in pots; wait until they sprout. To awaken the tubers, they are laid out on a layer of peat, placed in a warm place (the temperature for awakening the tubers is +23...+25 degrees), in diffused light, and the tubers are regularly sprayed to moisturize. After the sprouts appear, the tubers are planted in pots.

If a gloxinia tuber does not sprout, it has a shriveled appearance, and it may be dead. A living tuber is yellow or pinkish when cut. Gloxinia tubers die due to improper storage conditions - they dry out or rot, as well as from old age.

Planting Gloxinia:

To plant gloxinia tubers, choose a pot that is not deep, 4-5 cm in diameter large sizes tuber. Gloxinia tubers are planted in new soil at the beginning of each season.

Land for planting gloxinia suitable for violets. To make up the substrate, mix leaf soil, peat and sand (perlite or vermiculite) in a ratio of 2:2:1. Gloxinia does not like acidic soil, so it is recommended to add a little to the soil for planting. charcoal, which will reduce acidity and absorb excess moisture. If the soil reacts neutrally, leaf chlorosis may occur.

When planting gloxinia, be sure to make drainage with a 2-3 cm layer of expanded clay or other material. When planting sprouted tubers, the sprouts should remain in the light, then as they grow, soil is added so that the tuber is at a depth of 1-2 cm. After planting the gloxinia tubers, water along the edge of the pot and after the soil settles, more soil is added.

Gloxinia in spring The ground part is actively growing and during this period it is important to follow the rules of flower care - lighting, temperature, watering and nutrition; the correct formation of the plant and the beginning of flowering depend on these factors.

Lighting for gloxinia should be bright, but without the midday rays of the sun, so north or south windows are not suitable for this flower. From the east or west side, in the morning or evening, the sun's rays will not harm the flowers, the plants turn towards the light source different sides so that the rosette of leaves does not turn out one-sided. You can grow gloxinia in the back of the room under artificial lighting, the plants develop well under phyto lamps and the flowers are presented with a better view.

With a lack of lighting, the stem becomes elongated, few buds are formed, and the flowers and leaves are pale in color.

In direct sunlight, flowers quickly fade, and burns may appear on the leaves.

Temperature. The growth rate of gloxinia largely depends on temperature, and if the room is hot, the plant’s stem quickly stretches, becomes unstable, and falls under the weight of flowers and buds. Some varieties tend to stretch the stem. Excess nitrogen and lack of lighting further accelerate the overgrowth of the stem. To grow a compact rosette of leaves for gloxinia after germination of tubers, the temperature is kept at +19...+23 degrees.

If the temperature is below +18 degrees, the development of indoor flowers slows down, the risk of tuber rotting increases, the plants feel uncomfortable, the leaves curl, and flowering does not occur.

At temperatures above +25 degrees, flowers fade ahead of schedule, the stems quickly outgrow and lie down. You can reduce the effect of heat on indoor plants by increasing air humidity, but you cannot spray them on leaves and flowers, as droplets of water will leave stains on them. Spray the air around your home flowers, place containers with water or damp moss between the pots.

Gloxinia in feeding needs regularly, every week or once every 10 days, but the fertilizer is diluted at 2 times lower concentration than for other indoor flowers. Fertilizing begins after the sprouts appear until the end of flowering. You can use a complex fertilizer, where the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is balanced in a ratio of 1:2:2.

Excess nitrogen leads to overgrowth and stretching of the stem of the flower, delaying the onset of flowering. If there is a shortage of this element, growth is slowed down, the tuber does not grow, so young plants that have not yet begun to bloom are fertilized with compounds containing a high nitrogen content or alternate mineral fertilizers with organic.

Phosphorus and potassium are important for flowering gloxinias; their deficiency reduces the number of buds, the buds may not open, and the flowers are pale in color. A sign of phosphorus deficiency is reddening of the leaves.

Watering. Watering gloxinia it is necessary in moderation, after the top layer of soil in the pot has dried. These house flowers tolerate a lack of water more easily than waterlogging. Excessive watering leads to rotting of the tuber; at the same time, leaves and buds may begin to rot from the petioles. The combination of waterlogging and excess nitrogen in the soil accelerates the decay process.

To water home gloxinias, you must use soft water. room temperature. You need to water the flowers along the contour of the pot, moistening the soil around the tuber and preventing moisture from getting into the center of the rosette.

Gloxinia dormancy and tuber storage.

Gloxinia in October goes into a state of rest. Fertilizing is stopped after flowering has ended, watering is carried out less frequently, and the leaves gradually wither and dry out. At the end of October, the stem is cut off, leaving a small stump, the pot with the tuber is moved to a cool place where the temperature is +12...+15 degrees. While the tuber is dormant in a pot of soil, water it infrequently so that the tuber in the ground does not dry out.

Young one-year-old plants, obtained from seeds or after rooting leaf cuttings, are not put into dormancy in the first year; they continue to be watered and fertilized as before. In young gloxinias, the tuber is still very small; it will not survive a long hibernation and will not germinate in the spring. If gloxinia has more than 5 leaves in a rosette, then its tuber can be put into a dormant state and sent for storage.

You can dig up a gloxinia tuber for storage, place it in a bag of peat and put it on a shelf in the refrigerator, but be careful temperature regime not less than +10 degrees. With this storage, the risk of the tuber drying out is minimal. However, you should not reduce the temperature when storing tubers, since after a cold winter, problems arise during flowering; buds may form, but not open.

The gloxinia tuber should remain in hibernation for 4 months from November to February, during which time it will gain strength for lush flowering in the new season.

Problems when growing gloxinia:

Beautiful gloxinia flowers look decorative on a properly grown compact rosette of leaves with a short stem.

Gloxinia stretches out when there is a lack of light, high temperature, overabundance nitrogen fertilizers. It is recommended to cut off the elongated stem; it can be rooted separately. After correcting errors in care, the tuber will grow a new compact shoot.