How to properly fix polycarbonate to a metal frame. At what distance should polycarbonate be fixed? Is it possible to fix cellular polycarbonate horizontally?

Cellular polycarbonate is modern material, which is widely used for cladding greenhouses. It allows you to quickly and inexpensively obtain reliable translucent walls.

In this article we will tell you how to properly attach polycarbonate to a greenhouse.

Advantages of polycarbonate

Like any material, polycarbonate has both its pros and cons.

Its main advantages include:
Flexibility and impact resistance - it is about 20 times better than glass.
This material does not promote combustion and has good thermal insulation due to closed air cells.
The optimum ratio of price and quality. The average price for a 4 mm sheet 210*6000 cm is 1500-1800 rubles.
He is not afraid of moisture, high and low temperatures, sudden changes in humidity.
This material is lightweight, so you will not have any problems securing a polycarbonate greenhouse to the ground. A very simple foundation or a wooden frame nailed to the ground with long reinforcement is sufficient.

The main disadvantage of this material is:

Low abrasive resistance, easy to scratch.
It is also destroyed by ultraviolet rays, so to avoid this, manufacturers protect it with a special film.
During installation, it is necessary to take into account the presence of a thermal gap so that during temperature changes, the casing can freely expand and contract.

Layout of sheets

The stiffening ribs in cellular polycarbonate are located along the length of the sheet, so when fastening they must be positioned so that the channels have an exit to the outside. This is necessary to drain the condensate that forms inside. That is, on vertical walls The stiffeners must be vertical, on the arches along the bend of the arch.

Modern polycarbonate is made with a special protective film, which usually contains the manufacturer’s markings and logos. The layer with such a film must be laid outwards. It is better to remove it after fixing the polycarbonate to the greenhouse.

Also, when installing on arched structures, the maximum valid values sheet bending established by the manufacturer.

cutting

The process of cutting sheets is one of the main ones because this material usually supplied in the form long sheets. Their standard size is: width 210 cm, length 6 or 12 m.

The cutting process itself is very simple; for this you can use a regular hacksaw or a power tool: a jigsaw, a circular saw. The protective film will protect the surface from scratches during cutting.

After cutting the desired sheet, you should carefully remove all chips from the internal cavities; it is best to use a vacuum cleaner for this. This is necessary to prevent condensation from accumulating inside.

Drilling holes

Suitable for drilling regular drills, but holes must be made between the stiffeners, as well as at least 4 cm from the edge of the panel. The size of the holes should be 1-2 mm larger than the diameter of the screws to create a temperature gap.

Note!
When installing long sheets exceeding 6 meters, you need to extend the size of the holes along the length so that they are oval.

The drilling angle must be perpendicular, otherwise it will not be possible to fix the screw and washer exactly. In this case, the tightness will be broken, the mounting location will be unreliable, and the thermal insulation will deteriorate.

Fastening panels

Attaching polycarbonate to a metal greenhouse frame can be done in two ways:

Using a self-tapping screw with a washer and a sealing gasket.
Using a thermal washer.

Externally, the thermal washer looks like a mushroom cap and consists of two parts: a sealing part and an upper plastic part. In the center it has through hole under the screw head. In addition, the plastic leg, which is selected according to the thickness of the coating, prevents the bolt from being over-tightened.

After attaching the self-tapping screw, a special cap is put on it to hide it. Thus, the self-tapping screw is protected from exposure external environment and the bridge of cold is removed. You can see its structure in the photo:

How to fix polycarbonate to wooden greenhouse? This is done in exactly the same way, the difference with a metal frame is only in the screws used. In this case, it is better to use ordinary roofing washers for this, since they are cheaper than thermal washers.

For metal, self-tapping screws with a drill tip are usually used, and for wood, with a sharp end. They should be 4.2mm in diameter with a press washer. For fastening to wood, a screw length of 25 mm will be sufficient, and for flat metal profiles - 13 mm. The fastening should be every 30-40 cm.

Note!
When screwing self-tapping screws, do not firmly fasten them, overtighten them, or use nails, rivets, or inappropriate washers for fastening.

Cell sealing

Before attaching polycarbonate to the greenhouse frame, you need to carefully seal its ends. The upper end must be sealed with regular self-adhesive tape. You need to stick a tape on the bottom and make holes in it for condensation to escape.

Joining panels

To properly connect polycarbonate to each other, you need to use special component profiles.

A simple connecting profile for connecting two panels. In this case, the profile itself is not attached to the sheathing.
The composite connecting profile allows you to connect 2 panels and attach them to the sheathing.
The end profile is needed to seal the end part of the panels.
The wall profile allows you to seal the ends and secure the edge of the panel to the wall.
Corner profile – for mounting perpendicular corners.
Ridge profile - to create a joint on gable roofs different angles.

Instructions for attaching polycarbonate to the greenhouse are shown in the video in this article:

Between the polycarbonate sheet and the metal you need to make a heat-insulating tape.
For attaching to. First, its lower part, the so-called base, is screwed to the frame, and then the panel is inserted into it. Before this, you need to remove the bottom protective film and bend the layer of the top film by 10 cm so that it does not interfere with installation.
If the fastening occurs at the edge, then from its extreme part close to the composite profile you need to install an end or wall profile.
Then you need to secure top part composite profile, simply snapped into the base. A temperature gap of 3 mm must be left between the profile and the panel.
For wall mounting, a wall profile is used. It is put on the end of the panel, and its second part is attached to the wall with sealant.
Immediately after completing the installation completely, otherwise it will stick to it even more strongly.
When installing arched surfaces, the length of the profile should be longer than the panels, since their sizes may differ. The excess is cut off after installation.

Conclusion

Availability large quantity components for polycarbonate will allow you to do the installation yourself without difficulty. (see also article) All joints will be neat and airtight.

How to fix polycarbonate

The sheets are attached to the base or with stainless steel bolts. But many people are concerned about the question: how to attach polycarbonate to a metal frame so that water does not get into the joints? For this case, thermal washers are provided, specially designed for installing polycarbonate.

Most often they are produced with a diameter of 30 mm. Such hardware has a silicone base in the form of an O-ring, the purpose of which is to completely prevent water from entering the connection. The screw screwed in from above is additionally protected by a plastic cap.

Choosing a frame for polycarbonate

- strong and durable material. Requires the construction of a reliable foundation. A structure made of stone or brick is difficult to build and repair.
Wood reduces the cost of construction and makes it attractive. Easy to install. Significant disadvantage- fragility, vulnerability to adverse weather. Before attaching polycarbonate to wooden frame, it is treated with an antiseptic, varnish or other protective substances.
Metal is the most practical and durable material, although not the cheapest. Polycarbonate is easiest to mount to a square metal profile.

How and with what to cut polycarbonate

— suitable for sheets with a thickness of 4-8 mm. Experience is not necessary for a quality cut. To cut the material correctly, movements with the knife are made slowly and carefully.
- Any tool model will do. For cutting plastic, use a 125 metal circle. For a quality cut, experience is required.
- cuts polycarbonate perfectly if the file has fine teeth. The work requires skill. The tool is effective for cutting complex decorative shapes.
- used only by experienced specialists, since the material along the cutting line may crack if moved incorrectly. To improve the quality of work, the material must be securely fastened.
Laser is the most effective method cutting polycarbonate, but due to the high cost of the tool, it is available only to specialized companies. The laser machine cuts quickly, accurately and without defects.

How to attach polycarbonate

The material is mounted with the side with UV protection facing outwards - it is covered plastic film, which shows installation instructions. The polycarbonate canopy is attached with hardware in increments of 30-40 cm. During installation, the thermal expansion of the plastic is taken into account - the diameter of the holes for thermal washers should be larger diameter the fastener itself by 2-3 mm.

How to attach polycarbonate to a gazebo so that it does not burst

To do this, holes are made between the stiffeners. It is very important not to squeeze the thermal washers, otherwise cracks will form. It is also important to screw in the hardware strictly perpendicular to the sheet - this will help avoid deformation of the material.

How to attach polycarbonate to a greenhouse consisting of several spans

To do this, the joints of adjacent sheets are fixed together with a plastic or aluminum H-shaped profile with standard size 6 m. Before installation, the edges are torn off protective film by 5 cm. After this, the edge of the sheet is inserted into the profile to a depth of 2 cm. A 5 mm gap is provided for the thermal expansion of the plastic.

Unprotected ends are covered with aluminum tape. A solid tape is used for the outer part, perforated for the inner part. The purpose of the exterior is to protect against moisture, dirt and insects. Perforated prevents dust from entering and condensation. For more better protection the joints are treated with sealant. After the polycarbonate is attached to the roof or frame, the protective film is removed from it.

How to bend polycarbonate sheets

If an arched one is installed, it becomes necessary to bend the material. The bend is made only along the line of the air channels. To bend a sheet, one end is fixed in a vice and the other is bent. It is important to follow the instructions - for a material of a certain grade and thickness there is a minimum permissible bending radius.

Before attaching polycarbonate to, it is important to read the manufacturer's instructions. Only when correct installation gazebo or will last a long time. Otherwise, cracks may occur, dirt will get into the voids, and the material itself will collapse. Sticking to simple rules, you will quickly and efficiently attach the material to the frame.

The monolithic version has a solid structure, like ordinary glass, but due to its polymer base, it is many times stronger and lighter than the same glass, and additionally has increased resistance to physical impact due to its flexibility. Such elements are used as a complete replacement of glass in residential and public buildings, as well as shopping, entertainment and scientific complexes.

The honeycomb element consists of a pair of thin plates connected to each other by special stiffening ribs, the space between which is free.

This material is widely used in construction, utility and utility rooms and country houses, especially as a covering for greenhouse complexes.

How to Orient Panels

Honeycomb polycarbonate elements along their length have ribs that provide their rigidity, so during installation they must always be positioned in such a way that the hollow channels inside them have an exit to the outside. This requirement is dictated by the need to remove condensate from them, which can form due to temperature differences.

When installing such plates as vertical glazing, the ribs providing rigidity are also placed vertically. When attached to a frame as a slope or arch, it is always necessary to orient them so that the internal hollow channels inside run along the slopes or along the arc of the arch, respectively.

Today's manufacturing technology for both monolithic and honeycomb panels implies that each of them has a front and inside. They are distinguished from each other due to the presence on the first of a special protective coating in the form of a film with markings, which serves as protection until the moment complete installation, and is removed at the final stage.

When installing polycarbonate panels as an arched structure, the maximum bending radius for specific type material specified in its labeling.

1. Sheet cutting

Polymer boards are supplied in standard sheets, which, as a rule, always have larger dimensions than required, so one of the main operations with them is cutting them into pieces with the required dimensions. This operation will have to be performed both when installing a polycarbonate roof with your own hands.

The operation itself of cutting optimal pieces from a solid panel is extremely simple, since the material is easy to cut. For this you can use different instruments for cutting, from hand hacksaw before electric grinder or jigsaw.

In the process of cutting polymer, regardless of the chosen tool, it is impossible to avoid the occurrence of vibrations of the material during its operation, which can negatively affect the quality of the cuts and lead to problems during the installation and fitting of finished parts, up to the rejection of some of them. Therefore, in order to make the task as easy as possible and level out side vibrations, the material is securely fixed in advance.

In the case of a honeycomb structure, after cutting, the cavities in the resulting elements are cleared of chips, because if they remain clogged, the removal of condensate will be difficult and moisture will accumulate inside the plates, which is especially dangerous during frosts, since water frozen inside the panel can damage it.

2. Sealing the ends

Honeycomb plates require sealing of their ends. The one on top can be covered with regular tape, but to seal the bottom one, it is better to use a special tape with perforations to drain moisture condensing inside the sheet.

For unhindered outflow of condensing liquid from the panel, it is necessary to arrange several holes in its end part, identical to those used for fixing the polymer sheet.

Fastening cellular polycarbonate

Carbonate slabs can be attached to structures made of almost any material; its type only affects the choice of elements for fastening. As a rule, these are self-tapping screws for wood or metal with a self-tapping tip, which are supplied with special thermal washers with a rubberized surface.

Thermal washers have a special leg and are selected according to its size so that it matches the thickness of the panel it fixes. This design not only protects the sheet structure from excessive deformation, but also reduces heat losses through direct contact with the self-tapping screw, which in this case acts as a conductor of cold through the polycarbonate.

Therefore, self-tapping screws with thermal washers are a universal fastener, regardless of the material of the load-bearing surface, which is sheathed with polymer panels.

When installing, it is advisable to insert screws in advance drilled holes in plastic, which must meet the following requirements:

Firstly, holes can only be drilled between the stiffeners, and only at a distance from the edge of the slab of at least 4 cm.
Secondly, the holes must allow for thermal expansion of the material, which must be able to move on the fasteners due to the fact that the hole in it is a millimeter to one and a half larger than the diameter of the thermal washer leg.
In the case of a large length of plastic, the holes in it for fixation should not be easy large diameter, but also longitudinally elongated.
When drilling, it is extremely important to maintain the maximum right angle of the hole with an error of no more than 20 degrees, otherwise, when fixing the washer, a misalignment will occur and the panel will not be securely attached to the supporting structure.

Knowing the technology of fixing polycarbonate, you can easily and reliably cover almost any structure with it. However, it is also necessary to master the technology of joining panels to each other, which involves the use of special elements for these purposes - profiles, which can be either fixed or detachable.

The first ones are used with panels with a thickness of 4 to 10 mm. The second are “Polyskrep” profiles, capable of connecting together plates from 6 to 16 mm in thickness. Removable profiles are assembled from a pair of elements: the lower one, which serves as the base, and the upper one - a cover with a lock.

Such connection profiles made of polymer are necessary for assembling arched or pitched structures, but are also suitable for completely vertical surfaces. One clamp connects a pair of panels with a width of 50 to 105 cm, and it itself is fixed with self-tapping screws. When mating individual panels at an angle of 90 degrees, a corner joining profile is provided, and in the case of abutment to a wall, a special wall profile is provided.

The technology for fixing a removable profile involves several operations:

Drilling a hole for a self-tapping screw in the base.
Fixing the base on longitudinal design and laying the panels with a 5 mm gap required to compensate for the thermal expansion of the material.
Clicking the profile cover using a wooden mallet.
Temperature value.

Often, when sheathing a greenhouse with cellular polycarbonate, the plates are attached overlapping one another, instead of using special joining profiles. This option is optimal and is possible only in the case of a small thickness of sheets, which does not exceed 6 mm, since due to their thinness they have increased flexibility, which is why they can “walk” or even jump out of the fixing profile.

But thick polymer plates with a thickness of 8 mm or more with this technique will form very noticeable “steps” due to overlapping each other, which can only be solved by using a connecting profile.

You should know that fastening polycarbonate sheets using the overlapping method can lead to the following consequences:

Firstly, with this method the tightness of the sheathed structure will always be compromised, up to a draft, complete blowing out internal heat and even the accumulation of debris and sediment under the structure’s cladding;
Secondly, sheets secured in an overlap experience a significantly greater impact from gusts of wind, which means that if the fixation is not strong enough, they can be torn off or broken.

Fastening monolithic polycarbonate

1. How and to what can carbonate be attached?

Monolithic carbonate has two methods of fastening, but both of them require a base in the form of a supporting frame that ensures reliable fixation of the slab:

First method– “wet”, implies the use of a special polymer lubricant. In this case, the installation of elements is organized with gaps that compensate for the expansion of the material under the influence of temperature. This option is also appropriate when inserting a polymer plate into wooden frame. In the case of a metal frame, rubber gaskets are used in combination with a sealant, which is applied to the internal and external clamped surface.
Second method– “dry” installation, does not require any sealants and makes it possible to install the panel directly on the rubber seal. Since the structure itself is not airtight, it is provided with drainage to drain water.

2. Is it possible to attach sheets of overlap?

Polycarbonate is a thermoplastic material that responds to temperature fluctuations by changing its dimensions. Therefore, in cold weather it contracts, and in hot weather it expands. If not taken into account this fact in the process of fastening sheets from it, most likely, sooner or later they will be damaged.

This especially applies to monolithic polymer elements, which not only have a higher expansion coefficient, but also do not have structural flexibility in the form of voids and profiles. Therefore, using them in combination with rigid fastening technology - overlapping - is impossible.

Temperature value

Polycarbonate is an unpretentious and fairly durable material and, in relation to the ambient temperature, can be used within the range from –40 to +120 degrees Celsius. However, the polymer on which it is made can both expand and contract under the influence of temperature, which is expressed in its expansion coefficient of 0.065 mm per one degree of temperature for each meter of sheet.

Therefore, to calculate the actual expansion, you need to calculate the maximum temperature difference per year and multiply it by 0.065 mm. For example, when installed in the middle climatic zone with temperatures from -40 to +50 degrees

Celsius gap should be about 6mm for each linear meter plastic. In the case of painting, the heating of the sheets increases by an average of 10 - 15 degrees, which means they will expand more, that is, by about 6.5 mm per meter of slab.

Carbide discs with small, unset teeth are excellent for cutting polymers, since they leave the most even and accurate cut.
Do not rush to remove the protective film from the sheets immediately upon purchase; it is created not only to protect the material from damage, dirt and scratches during transportation and storage, but also during installation.
The upper ends of the polymer panels must be closed. To do this, it is recommended to use unusual adhesive tape and special tape. The lower ends, on the contrary, are open to ensure the removal of condensing moisture.
It is not advisable to over-tighten the screws securing the plates, and also, in general, to rigidly fasten the entire panel, which must have a certain degree of freedom in order to “breathe”, expanding and contracting during periods of warming and cooling, respectively.

Polycarbonate began to be used in private construction not so long ago, but has already become widespread. Light weight high strength, excellent resistance to weathering and temperature changes allowed this material to easily replace glass and individual species coatings Installing polycarbonate with your own hands is not difficult if you know certain rules.

Depending on the manufacturing method, polycarbonate is divided into types:

The most popular are two- and three-layer cellular polycarbonate, the thickness of the sheets varies from 4 to 35 mm. It is widely used in the assembly of greenhouses and conservatories, for canopies over swimming pools and cars, canopies of various shapes and sizes, as well as balconies and other partitions.

Thanks to its hollow structure, the material has high thermal insulation and dampens sounds well. Cellular polycarbonate transmits 80% of the light spectrum, bends well, does not burn, weighs 16 times less than glass of the same thickness and is 7 times lighter than plastic panels.

Monolithic polycarbonate in private construction is used for the manufacture of balconies and interior partitions, glazing attic premises And window openings. It is hundreds of times stronger than glass, yet has a very aesthetic appearance. The polycarbonate surface is resistant to mechanical stress, and therefore it is quite difficult to scratch or pierce it.

Profiled polycarbonate is thin transparent sheets of a wave-like shape. It is most suitable for manufacturing and repair roofing. Its strength is much higher than that of a monolithic one, and its service life is calculated in decades. Even under the influence negative temperatures, precipitation, sun rays The polycarbonate surface does not lose its original shape.

Position of panels during installation

When starting to install polycarbonate panels, you must follow the following rules:

at vertical mounting sheets of stiffeners must be directed vertically;
when laying the coating at an angle, the stiffeners are directed along the slopes;
When installing arches, the stiffeners are arranged along an arc.

This arrangement is required to allow condensate to escape from the cavities of the sheet, which forms due to temperature changes. For the same reason, the lower sections cannot be closed tightly. But the upper edges of the panels must be covered with a special tape or profile to prevent clogging of the cells with dust, snow, rainwater and debris.

When assembling various arches, the bend of the sheet should not exceed the radius indicated on the marking, the value of which differs for each type of panel. Failure to comply with this rule will result in damage to the panel. Outside The sheets are covered with a protective film with markings, and it is recommended to remove it only after installing the polycarbonate.

The standard width of a polycarbonate sheet is 2.1 m, the length of the sheets is 6 and 12 m. This is too much for arranging a canopy or partition, so the material needs to be cut. Incorrect cutting of panels damages protective covering and polycarbonate edges, which can spoil the appearance of the structure. It is most convenient to use a high-speed circular saw with carbide blades for cutting. In order for the cut edges to be as smooth as possible, the disk must have small, unspaced teeth.

During the cutting process, the panel should be securely fixed to eliminate the slightest vibration. The top film cannot be removed at this stage, because it protects the coating from microscopic damage when cutting. For cut panels, the internal cavities should be cleared of chips, as they will prevent the free flow of condensate.

Rules for drilling holes

To drill polycarbonate panels, use standard drills of various diameters. There are several important rules:

the minimum permissible distance from the edge of the panel to the hole is 4 cm;
holes for fasteners should be located between the stiffeners;
the diameter of the mounting holes should exceed the cross-section of the thermal washer leg by 2-3 mm;
the minimum drilling angle is 90 degrees, the maximum is 118 degrees;
The sharpening angle of the drill is 30 degrees.

Failure to comply with these rules will lead to deformation and distortion of the sheet during installation, and will also reduce the reliability of fastening and thermal insulation of the material. When fastening long sheets, all holes must have an ellipsoidal shape and be directed along the stiffeners.

To attach polycarbonate sheets to metal and other surfaces, self-tapping screws equipped with thermal washers are used. The leg of the thermal washer must correspond to the thickness of the panel: legs that are too short will lead to overtightening of the fasteners and sagging of the sheet; legs that are too long will not be able to ensure a tight fit of the material. Self-tapping screws are placed no more often than every 30-40 cm. Panels cannot be secured with nails or rivets.

Adjacent panels are connected to each other by detachable and one-piece profiles. These details make it possible without special effort assemble a structure of any size and configuration from sheets.

Connection with detachable profiles

Detachable profiles are designed for connecting panels with a thickness of 6 to 16 mm. They are made of two parts: a base and a lid with a lock. Each profile is capable of holding 2 sheets 50-105 cm wide; in areas adjacent to the wall, a wall profile is used, and to connect panels at right angles, a corner profile is used. All types of profiles are fastened with self-tapping screws.

The panels are installed as follows:

drill the lower part of the profile in several places;
attach the base to the longitudinal frame;
lay the material on both sides of the profile, leaving a gap of at least 5 mm;
take a wooden hammer and use it to click the lid;
the ends of the outer profiles are covered with dense plugs.

Connection with permanent profiles

The width of the profile grooves must necessarily correspond to the thickness of the sheets - 4-6 mm, 8 or 10 mm. Panels are inserted into the grooves the right size, and then attach the profiles to the longitudinal frame of the structure. Self-tapping screws are used as fasteners; the fastening pitch is 30 cm. This method used primarily for sealing panel edges vertical structures that are not subject to heavy loads. This is due to the low reliability of the connections and low sealing of the joints between the sheets.

End sealing

Cellular polycarbonate requires mandatory sealing of joints and ends. The upper sections are usually covered with self-adhesive aluminum tape, but ordinary tape cannot be used for these purposes. Polycarbonate end profiles are attached on top of the aluminum tape; they are very reliable and aesthetically pleasing. The lower sections cannot be sealed, otherwise condensation will accumulate inside the cavities and, when frozen, destroy the cells. To protect the lower ends, perforated self-adhesive tape and the same end profile are used, in which holes should be made for water drainage.

In places where maximum tightness is required, use aluminum profiles with rubber seals. On arches, both ends are covered with perforated tape. Leaving the top or bottom cuts open is unacceptable.

Calculation of thermal expansion

When installing panels yourself, you should take into account the deformation of the material due to temperature fluctuations. For transparent cellular polycarbonate, as well as for panels white the expansion coefficient is 0.065 mm per degree per square meter of area. Calculating the permissible expansion is not difficult: first, determine the largest difference in annual temperature, and then multiply it by a coefficient.

For example, if the highest temperature reached plus 50 degrees, and the lowest was minus 40 degrees, the difference is 90; multiplying it by 0.065 gives 5.85 mm per one square meter. That is, an arch 10 m long on a hot day can further lengthen by 58.5 mm.

Colored polycarbonate tends to heat up 10-15 degrees more, so the expansion coefficient is 6.5 mm. The lower the temperature difference, the less the material expands. Thermal gaps in ridge and corner connections, as well as in places where screws are attached, allow you to avoid serious deformations and ruptures of the coating.

Video - DIY polycarbonate installation

A polymer material that has thermoplastic properties is usually presented in the form of sheets. Despite the different colors, it is transparent. In everyday life it is called polycarbonate. Polycarbonate is intended for the arrangement of greenhouses, canopies, and verandas. You can also do this. It is believed that there can be nothing complicated in working with it, however, there are still some features.

What do you need to know before starting installation?

Polycarbonate by appearance resembles glass. However, its apparent transparency still serves as good protection from direct sunlight. This monolithic material has good flexibility, but is very strong and quite lightweight. The operating temperature of polycarbonate is from – 40 to + 120 degrees Celsius.

Polycarbonate is divided into two types:

Monolithic. It's practically glass, only lighter and stronger.
Cell phone. This is a hollow, but multi-layered structure with stiffening ribs located longitudinally

Before purchasing polycarbonate, it is advisable to determine its dimensions as accurately as possible. This will make it much easier to fit the sheets. You should also be prepared for the fact that the installation of polycarbonate, if presented step by step, looks like this:

Sheet selection (orientation)
Cutting plates to the desired shape and size
Preparing holes for fasteners
Sealing seams
Assembly of all structural elements

It is also worth taking into account the fact that polycarbonate can be deformed due to increased thermal load. This is especially important to know before attaching polycarbonate to a greenhouse, roof or canopy, which will be located primarily under the scorching sun.

Worth knowing! 2.5 millimeters per meter is the standard expansion rate for cellular transparent polycarbonate, and for colored slabs this figure is 4.5 millimeters per 1 meter.

When installing in hot summer weather, the panels must be installed closely, including to the lock of the joining profile. Reducing the temperature will reduce the polycarbonate and the required gap will appear between the profile lock and the sheet, which will provide additional moisture removal.

Selection of panels

When working with cellular polycarbonate, the main thing is to correctly position the sheets, taking into account the stiffeners. The panel must be installed so that the internal channels of the stiffeners have an outlet to the outside. This will remove the condensation that will form inside the sheet. Is it possible to mount polycarbonate horizontally?

It is important! When constructing a greenhouse, the sheets must be placed vertically (the stiffeners must be perpendicular to the surface). If pitched surfaces are to be installed, then the ribs must be located along the slopes. For arched installation, the ribs should be positioned in the direction of the arc.

It is worth paying attention to whether the manufacturer made one of the polycarbonate sides external. If yes, then such a side has a special protective layer, which can be removed after the sheet is fixed.

When working with cellular polycarbonate, you need to take into account the maximum bending radius of the material, which is indicated for each type of panel separately.

Accurate measurements will help you purchase the right amount of material, which will be enough for high-quality fastening.

Plate cutting

Considering the correct location of the panels relative to their stiffeners, it is worth preparing a drawing with measurements required quantity polycarbonate plates. Then you need to start cutting the large canvas.

A high-speed circular saw is quite suitable for cutting. It is best to carry out the work with carbide discs with undetected small teeth.

Attention! Polycarbonate sheets should not be held in your hands while cutting. Strong vibration may result in personal injury or poor quality cutting. It is best to place the panels on a flat, hard surface and securely fix them, you can even use a vice. And after work, be sure to clear the cut line of chips.

Holes in polycarbonate

You need to drill holes in cellular polycarbonate between the stiffening ribs (this will not interfere with condensate drainage). Work must be done before fastening begins. It's best to drill electric drill with metal drills.

Sealing

This process only needs to be done for honeycomb panels. At the ends located on top, you need to secure self-adhesive tape. The bottom ends cannot be sealed.

If you decide to make a greenhouse from polycarbonate, then keep in mind what needs to be done. This is necessary in order to reduce the risk of crop disease.

By the way, it’s not for nothing that polycarbonate is used in the manufacture of greenhouses. This material transmits light perfectly and at the same time is resistant to high temperature. Read about others technical specifications cellular polycarbonate. This material is characterized by high strength.

How and with what to attach polycarbonate to metal and wood?

When all preparatory work completed, you need to begin the process of installing the structure, which is the proper fastening of polycarbonate.

There are 2 common methods of fastening polycarbonate sheets:

Using thermal washers
Using profiles

Fastening polycarbonate with thermal washers

For thermal washers, you need to make holes in the polycarbonate sheets a couple of millimeters wider than the diameter of each thermal washer. Plastic construction on short leg should fit tightly into the hole and snap into place. Its length is equal to the thickness of the panel.

The thermal washer must have a rubber seal, which allows for additional fixation and does not allow moisture and dust to pass through. This installation method can ensure that the polycarbonate is tightly held by washers, which will expand under thermal loads and prevent the sheets from changing their shape. This method of fastening is called point fastening.

Fastening polycarbonate using metal profiles

This installation assumes that polycarbonate sheets will be inserted into metallic profile, and then finished design will be installed where needed. This method is convenient when panels are laid in several rows and need to be joined.

The edges of the panels in the profile must be secured with self-tapping screws or the same thermal washers. Most often, using profiles, you can fasten panels that should become the edges of the structure, and the middle can be mounted using point fastening.

The profile can be:

Detachable
One-piece
Docking
Special (it is necessary for connecting panels where the frame configuration changes)
Corner
Stenov

In all cases, polycarbonate sheets should extend into the profile by no more than 20 millimeters.

All of the methods described above for attaching polycarbonate are also commonly called dry. But the “wet” method assumes that the sheets must be attached to the frames or to each other using polymer putty. After which all joints from the inside are treated with sealant.

The method of fastening polycarbonate should be chosen based on what tasks are assigned to the structure and how easier it will be to install it. And if all the rules are followed, it should turn out strong and beautiful.

Video on how to attach cellular polycarbonate

Detailed video instructions for installing cellular polycarbonate.

How to properly attach polycarbonate to the greenhouse frame so that the coating does not crack, bend or burst. Which fasteners to choose for polycarbonate.