How to grow roots from a cut rose. How to grow a rose from a cutting or a bouquet of flowers at home

How often it happens that for some celebration we are given a beautiful bouquet of roses, and after admiring the beauty of the incomparable flowers for a little while, we mercilessly throw them into the trash. But from the stems it is quite possible to grow a beautiful bush of the variety you like at your dacha or personal plot.

For rooting, it is better to choose varieties of flowers that have been acclimatized here. Some roses (such as Dutch roses) grown in greenhouse conditions other countries, take root much worse. Moreover, it often happens that the grown hybrid plant slightly different in colors from the “mother”.

How to grow a rose from a bouquet in the easiest way?

– the process is long, but interesting. To cultivate full-fledged bushes, it takes 2-3 years. In order to get a viable planting material There is no need to root the cuttings immediately after receiving the bouquet. You need to wait a little until the buds fade slightly.

The growing process consists of several stages:

Using a sharp knife, cut off the flower, buds (if any) and leaves (the lower ones completely, the upper ones halfway) from the rose stem. We cut it into cuttings, each of which should be 15-20 cm long. They should have 3-4 intact buds (2 internodes).
We make an oblique cut under the lowest bud, and make the upper cut 1 cm above the bud. We moisten the sections with water and then treat them with dry potassium permanganate.
We prepare a bright raspberry solution of potassium permanganate, in which we soak the prepared cuttings for a day.
We bury the disinfected planting material into a nutritious wood-humus substrate deeper and with a slight slope, leaving 2-3 buds above its surface. The root system of a new plant most often forms on the lower cut of the cutting.

How to plant a rose from a bouquet correctly?

To ensure good water and air permeability of the substrate, pour the mixture onto its surface river sand and peat. To speed up the process of root formation, you can use special preparations such as Heteroauxin or Kornevin, available in any flower shop. We dilute the root growth stimulator in accordance with the instructions supplied with it.

Creating a greenhouse effect

To ensure that rose cuttings do not dry out and develop well, it is necessary to create favorable conditions. For this purpose, we cover each cutting with a cut plastic bottle or glass jar, burying it slightly into the ground. The soil in the pot should be constantly moist. When leaves appear on the cuttings, they can be periodically sprayed with soft water. Optimal temperature for rooting roses is 25°C.

How faster?

The plant obtained from the cutting will eventually sprout branches and the first buds may develop on it. To speed up the development of the root system, carefully remove the buds. When the first roots appear, we no longer spray, and often ventilate the plants. As a rule, rooting of roses occurs in about 1 month.

A couple of months after the cuttings have rooted, we begin to transplant the roses into plastic or ceramic pots.

For them we prepare a nutrient substrate consisting of a mixture of humus, river sand and turf land in a ratio of 1:1:3.

Until autumn, such plants can be outdoors. Before frost sets in, we bring them into a cool room for wintering. The air temperature in it should be about 5°C.

In the spring, we plant the overwintered cuttings on permanent place V open ground. To prepare holes for planting, we dig the soil onto the bayonet of a shovel. Before planting we add them organic fertilizers, accelerating the further growth of young roses. When the first flowers appear, we remove them, as they deplete the plant.

Using the above described method of rooting cuttings, you can get young rose bushes in 70-75% of cases.

Growing roses from a bouquet using cuttings - video

How to grow a rose from a bouquet cutting - video 2

A given bouquet of roses, no matter how hard we try to maintain the freshness of the flowers, will very soon fade and have to be thrown away. It won’t be possible to preserve the memory of the flowers given to you for a long time, but maybe it’s worth taking a risk and trying to grow a rose from a bouquet at home?

The idea of growing cuttings from a given bouquet will not seem crazy to those women who are at least a little familiar with plant propagation. They will put them in water and wait for the first roots to appear. It's great if this happens, but more often than not the stems will either begin to rot or simply wither. Why can't I root a flower? Is it even possible to grow roses from a bouquet?

Today in our article we will try to find out how to properly plant a rose from a bouquet, when this can be done, and when it is better to dry the presented buds in order to somehow preserve the sweet memories of the gift.

When is cultivation possible?

If you want to bring a rose out of a beautiful bouquet, you should know that this idea can only be realized if you were given flowers " domestic production" Do not try to experiment with Dutch roses, do not waste time and energy on an initially impossible task.

Foreign specimens are not capable of reproduction. To survive long-term transportation, they are exposed to various chemical tricks, with the help of which professional flower growers preserve them appearance for a long time.

How to understand what kind of roses in a bouquet are domestic or imported? If you bought them yourself, you could ask the seller everything in detail, but what about the gift? This can be determined by carefully observing the plants in the vase. Domestic flowers may begin to fade by the end of the first day of standing in water.

Journalists conducted the following experiment. They bought two copies - a gorgeous Dutch rose on a high stem with a huge bud of rich red color and our rose - smaller in size and without too bright petals. For the first two days, the flowers did not visually change, but then it became clear that the local flower did not have long to live.

The Dutch rose was initially no longer alive. Her beauty was preserved using special chemicals, that’s why it lasts a long time in a bouquet and doesn’t fade. A cutting of such a plant will never take root and it will never be possible to grow a bush from it.

How to prepare cuttings?

When starting to take cuttings from a presented bouquet, we all want to get a positive result. For this to happen, you should know a few simple nuances:

For rooting, you need to use roses only from a fresh bouquet, and not wait for it to fade.
The cutting should be made from the middle part of the stem, since the upper part is still too weak, and the lower part is already dry and old.
Stems should be chosen of medium thickness and with three living buds.

First of all, you need to cut cuttings about 20 centimeters long, remove flowers, buds, thorns and leaves from them on the lower part of the stem. On the upper part of the stem we shorten the leaves by 2/3. Then we place the prepared cuttings in water, preferably distilled.

After the roots appear, the cuttings can be transplanted into pots or planted in the ground under jars. This method of planting a rose from a bouquet is suitable for both winter and summer, if the apartment is not cold and the water is changed regularly.

For bouquets received in late autumn or winter, it is still best suited next way cuttings, when it is necessary to preserve the stems until spring and prevent them from sprouting roots. To do this, you just need to dig the prepared cuttings into the ground, and make a dry shelter on top - protection from frost, and with the onset of spring, plant them using one of the listed methods.

Summer way to grow roses

During the summer months, when the night temperature does not drop below 18°C, you can root rose cuttings directly in the garden. To do this, it is necessary to prepare a substrate from fertile soil (chernozem) and coarse sand (river sand is best).

Prepared cuttings should be buried in holes with this mixture at an angle of 45°C.
Before planting, they need to be treated with a solution of strong potassium permanganate.
Attention - the lower bud must be in the ground.
Water the planting site generously and cover any protruding cuttings. glass jars to get some kind of greenhouse.

A couple of weeks after planting, you need to start pinning the cuttings, removing the jars from them for several hours, each time increasing the time, so that by the third week you can remove the jars altogether.

If the cuttings were planted in the first months of summer, by autumn their shoots will reach 40 cm and some of them will even have buds. So that the new plant does not lose strength and can strengthen its root system, the first buds must be removed. In the first year, it is advisable to dig up new bushes for the winter, transplant the sprouts into pots and store them in a cool, moderately bright room.

How to plant a rose cutting in a potato

The most common folk rooting of rose cuttings is using potatoes, but this must be done in the spring. The essence of the method is that young potatoes for the cutting will create a moist environment and provide it with useful substances for growth.

An important condition is that the length of the cuttings should not exceed 20 cm, and all “eyes” on the potatoes should be removed.

We grow flowers from a given bouquet using potatoes:

We will need a not very deep (about 15 cm) trench located in a bright, windless place.
We fill the bottom of the trench with a 5-10 cm layer of river sand.
At a distance of about 15 cm from each other, we lay out the young potatoes with the cuttings prepared for planting.
We drop the cuttings onto only one lower bud and cover them with glass jars.
We water the cuttings regularly, and once every 5 days with a solution of sweet water (2 heaped teaspoons of sugar per 1 glass of water).
After two weeks, we begin to accustom the cuttings to the environment, as described above.

To increase your chances of breeding a rose, experiment with maximum number stems. One cutting will not take root, but another may succeed. If it didn’t work out the first time, it doesn’t mean that you are a bad gardener. Keep experimenting, gain experience, and very soon you will have the most gorgeous rose garden!

ECOgardener

Cuttings of roses at home (best methods)

The rose is an exceptional flower that leaves few people indifferent. It is magnificent both in a bouquet and in the garden on bushes. But what can I say, for breeding in own garden The rose is whimsical, requires a lot of attention and care, and it is not always possible to propagate it. However, roses are rooted, and quite successfully, using different methods and tricks. But the picturesque view of a blooming rose bush in the garden is worth trying to propagate roses from cuttings at home.

The best ways to root rose cuttings: detailed instructions on propagating roses from cuttings

One of the methods of growing roses is cuttings, and it is perhaps one of the most effective. Here, the first thing to do is to find, so to speak, a donor for the future flower. You can take cuttings from a bush already growing in the soil (a bush you like growing on the plot of your relatives or friends), or you can try and grow a rose from a magnificent bouquet given for your birthday.

Of course, the last option is unlikely, but it does happen. The choice of rose variety has great importance for its rooting and survival. After all, the characteristics of varieties that are resistant or unstable to certain conditions are very different. Therefore, we advise you to turn to local varieties of roses, that is, varieties that have already proven themselves well in a given climate and weather conditions.

Once you have decided on the variety and bush, you should pay attention to the stems themselves. They should be semi-lignified, not soft, but not oaky either. It is these stems that will give the highest survival rate. And this main reason, when it is not possible to grow a rose from a bouquet, because there are already ripe specimens of the flower, which means that their stem has already become completely lignified and has become insensitive.

As for foreign roses, they are 99% unsuitable for propagation, since they are treated with preservatives. But there are also specimens of bouquet roses from which it is possible to grow a full-fledged flower, although it is best to cut cuttings from the bush of an existing, actively growing rose.

Best period- this is the end of June - the beginning of July, when the rose has just faded and its petals and leaves have already begun to fall - such material has greatest number chances to produce magnificent specimens. But cuttings are also often carried out late in the fall, during the period when the bush begins to prepare for winter.

In any case, the thickness of the stem for the cutting should not exceed 5 mm (you can use the thickness of an ordinary pencil as a guide), and the optimal length is 15 cm. Cutting occurs using pruning shears at an acute angle. The main requirement for a cutting is the presence of three buds, and the distance from the last buds to the end of the cutting should be about 5 mm, on one side and on the other. By the way, you should be demanding about the health of the cutting - the slightest spots, rotting, etc. unacceptable, such stems are immediately discarded.

Once the cuttings are received, there are several options for the development of events. But in any case, rose cuttings are planted in prepared soil, this happens either immediately after cuttings, with mandatory aging in solutions with growth stimulants, or after the cuttings have formed callus (growth) and roots. There are quite a lot of methods for stimulating the formation of a root system in rose cuttings; some of them will be discussed below. In general, it takes about a month for roots to form.

You can plant roses in the ground both in autumn and spring. The cutting (with or without grown roots) is placed in prepared soil, always at an angle of 45 degrees. The planting depth is about 3 cm, it is important that the soil covers one bud of the cutting, and the remaining 1-2 buds are above the ground. The cutting is carefully dug in so that there is no formation of air voids between it and the soil.

Then the mandatory watering of the plantings is carried out, and their shelter is the construction of mini-greenhouses. For shelter, polyethylene bottles are suitable, the lids of which are either opened or holes are made for the circulation of air masses. If rooting occurs in the fall, then the whole thing must be insulated on top - covered non-woven material and leave it for the whole winter. And only next fall they are planted in a permanent place.

When cutting roses at home Special attention given to the soil where the cutting is planted, or to the substrate. The substrate is specially prepared and consists of peat, coarse river sand, and fertile soil. The soil must be loose and disinfected - using a solution of EM preparations, or with the addition of ash. You can also use store-bought mixtures that are prepared specifically for rooting roses, taking into account its needs.

Maintaining stable humidity and temperature stability are the main requirements for caring for cuttings. And it’s also important to avoid the sun. Therefore, it is very convenient to carry out rooting in tree trunk circles - we have been successfully rooting roses there for many years. After a month, the cuttings begin to harden by opening the bottles, then they are removed completely. If they were rooted late in the fall, then the bottles are left for the winter, and they are removed only in the spring, when it becomes noticeable that the bud has begun to grow.

The use of growth stimulants for more successful rooting of roses in the ground

Growth stimulants are special preparations that increase the survival rate of cuttings and promote faster formation of the root system. The use of stimulants in certain quantities is useful for cuttings to survive, but if there is an excess of these substances, their effect on the flower will be exactly the opposite. Therefore, it is necessary to strictly follow the instructions.

The cuttings are kept in growth stimulants before being directly planted in the ground. For this purpose, Heteroauxin, Kornerost Kornevin, diluted in certain proportions, succinic acid, are poured into a container where the cuttings are placed. Place them standing so that the solution covers one bud, but does not affect the foliage.

The time of keeping cuttings in solutions of growth stimulants varies depending on the degree of lignification of the stem. If it is softer, then 6-12 hours will be enough, but if the stem is completely lignified, then the time can reach up to a day.

Another root growth stimulator is Radifarm. In addition to the fact that it contains useful microelements, most of all it helps root the cutting in a new place and reduces the level of stress from replanting. The cuttings are kept in its solution (1-2 drops per liter) for only half an hour.

Also, the preparations Zircon and Epin-extra have improved qualities of root formation, protection from diseases, and protection from decay. As for Zircon, the lower ends of the cuttings are kept in its solution (about 15 drops per 1 liter of water) for 18 hours, after which they are planted in the ground.

If the varieties of roses that are most difficult to root are bred, then the concentration of the solution is increased (up to 40 drops per 1 liter). Treatment of rose cuttings with Epin-extra increases the rate of root formation by almost 2 times. In the prepared solution, where 5 drops of the product are taken per half liter of water, the cuttings are soaked for 20 hours.

Available products can also be used as a growth stimulant. folk remedies, such as:

Fresh yeast (not dry!). They are not only growth activators, but also contain nutritional elements - B vitamins. To prepare the solution, take 250 grams of yeast per 2 liters of water, dilute well. The cuttings are placed in it for a day.
Honey. It has a complex of minerals that increase the resistance of rose cuttings to diseases. In addition, it also has antiseptic properties. To prepare the solution, dilute 2 tsp of honey in water standing at room temperature (3 l). Place the cuttings into this solution at one end so that the solution covers ⅓ of the entire length. The cuttings are left in this position overnight.
Willow water. This growth stimulant can be prepared different ways. The first way is to put it in water willow twigs and wait for roots to appear on these twigs. The water in which willow roots have formed will be an excellent growth stimulator for rose cuttings. The second method is to finely chop green and yellow, but always annual, willow shoots and pour boiled water over them and leave for several hours. The solution obtained by both the first and second methods is used to treat the cuttings before planting them in the ground.

Now let's look at methods for growing the root system of rose cuttings before planting in open ground.

Germinating rose cuttings in water

When growing the roots of a rose cutting in water, you should know that in this case the roots turn out to be quite weak, and for subsequent rooting in the ground they will need additional care. But still, such a method has a place.

In this case, the prepared cuttings are placed in a container with water, and it is necessary to ensure that the water covers approximately half of the cuttings. The water must be pre-boiled and cooled. It can also be infused for a week on silver or zeolite by dropping a silver spoon or natural silicon into the decanter.

It is also important that you cannot change such water throughout the entire process - you can only add the amount that has evaporated. Before placing the cuttings in water to form roots, be sure to treat them with any growth stimulants as described above.

For faster root formation on the cuttings, you can add aloe juice to the water. It stimulates cell division, increasing the speed of this process. And for the formation of roots this is exactly what is required. For a sufficiently large container of water with cuttings you only need a couple of drops of fresh aloe juice.

It is advisable to use a container made of dark glass; as practice shows, root formation in this case occurs more intensively. By the way, you will have to wait about 2 months for the roots to appear; setting up a greenhouse will help speed up this process - put a bag on the container in which the cuttings are located and tie it tightly. True, for air circulation you should definitely make a couple of holes in it.

Rooting rose cuttings in potatoes

This method of growing callus and roots from rose cuttings is used in the spring. The potato tuber was not chosen for this by chance - it is the one that creates the optimal and constant moisture regime for the cutting so that it produces good roots. In addition, while the cutting is in the potato, it receives the necessary starch and carbohydrates from it, which is its additional nutrition.

In order to grow a rose from a cutting using potatoes, you need to have on hand previously prepared cuttings (necessarily without leaves and thorns) and potato tubers with cut out eyes. Tubers must have average value. Then you should cut a hole and insert the cutting into the tuber so that it does not fall out. After this, we place the simple structure in a pre-prepared trench. The trench should be located in a windless and shaded area of the site, its depth is about 15 centimeters.

Next, ⅓ sand is poured into the trench, and potatoes with cuttings stuck into it are already placed in the sand. The tubers are buried ⅔ into the sand, the distance between them is at least 15 cm. But it is worth noting that in the case of such cultivation, the rose will also require additional protection - it should be covered with glass jars, which are not recommended to be removed during the month. Then the cuttings can be trained to open air, periodically ventilating and opening the jars, and after a few days - a week the protection can be completely removed.

As for watering, despite the moisture created by the potato tuber, it must be done regularly. And once a week, it is advisable to do this with sweetened water - dilute 2 teaspoons of regular sugar in a glass.

You can also leave the cuttings in the potatoes right on the windowsill for a while. Provided that no direct lines fall on it Sun rays. In this case, the eyes are not damaged, but simply placed in a glass or on the neck of a jar. And when the growth buds wake up, the awakened cuttings are planted in the ground directly with the potatoes.

How to root a rose using a bag and aloe juice

This method of growing roots from a rose cutting is quite popular. When the cuttings are placed in a bag, a special, humid atmosphere is created there, with an effect such as fog. This atmosphere is good for callus formation.

First you need to prepare the filling for the plastic bag. This filling should be sphagnum moss, which is first well shed with a solution of aloe juice. To prepare the solution, take 9 parts of water ( room temperature) and dissolve 1 part of fresh aloe flower juice in it. Sphagnum moss moistened with this solution is placed in a bag, then the cuttings are placed there too - with one end, as if sticking them into the soil. Then the bag is tied tightly, leaving the other ends of the cutting out. After this, the package is hung on the window, subsequently the necessary atmosphere will be created there. As a rule, after a month the rose cuttings begin to develop roots. After which they can be planted in the ground.

Rooting roses in newspaper

Another method to propagate roses by cuttings is to use newspaper, a bag and water. To do this, take an ordinary wet newspaper, in which the rose cuttings, collected in a kind of bundle, are carefully wrapped, like in a bag.

The cuttings should be well covered with newspaper on all sides. Therefore, do not skimp on newspapers, just wrap the cuttings in layers on all sides.

When the package is ready, it must be checked for moisture. You need to make sure that water does not flow from the newspaper, but that it is all saturated with moisture. You can also use a clean rag, moistened with water and slightly wrung out, in which to wrap a newspaper bag.

This bundle is then placed in plastic bag, and is stored in a dark and cool place, where the temperature should vary around 16-18 degrees. If it drops lower, all processes in the cuttings will freeze, but if higher, they will dry out, and additional wetting will not help, they will only develop the process of rotting.

Over the course of one and a half months, you should check the bundle 2-3 times for the appearance of roots, as well as for the possibility of rotting - when growing roots in newspaper, this can happen quite often. Spoiled cuttings should be thrown away immediately. If all conditions are met, roots should form after 1.5 months.

As you can see, propagating roses by cuttings is a very exciting activity, and you can easily select suitable way rose cuttings But compared to tomatoes, which produce roots from their shoots within a week, you will have to be patient a little - they do not take root so quickly.

What woman doesn't love flowers? Especially roses... Each of us, at least once, received roses as a gift, beautiful, delicate, charming flowers. I can imagine that many would like such beauty to grow at home, on a windowsill, or in a front garden in the country. But can I have a rose from a bouquet? Let's look at this issue in more detail.

Article structure:

Process Features
If you listen to gardeners and specialists in this field, it turns out that yes, this is quite possible, but it happens quite rarely. According to amateur gardeners, a rose can be grown from a cutting in three out of ten cases. It is immediately worth noting the fact that not all roses from bouquets can be rooted. For example, a variety of roses such as Dutch roses are practically impossible to root; success in this case is practically zero. Hence, the best way For such purposes, use domestic roses.

You should pay attention to the fact that the stem of the cutting must have two buds (one on top and the other below). How long the roses have already stood in the vase, special significance does not, but it is advisable that it be no more than four days. If you immediately decide to start the bouquet from cuttings, it will be much better. And so that beautiful rose buds do not go to waste, they can be placed in a transparent vase filled with water and placed on the table.

Growing method

So, in more detail: the middle part of the stem must be cut into cuttings that will have a length of 12-15 centimeters, and the presence of two or three buds. The lower cut on the stem must be made at an angle equal to 45 degrees and located 1 centimeter below the bud. As for the immediate lower cut, it should be straight and only 0.5 centimeters above the kidney, no more. The lower leaf of the cutting must be removed, the upper leaves must be shortened to one third. The thorns should be trimmed using pruning shears, if there are any, of course.

The lower part of the stem must be split with a sharp knife (two or three splits no more than 1.5 centimeters deep), and planted in the prepared greens, first dipping the split in any preparation that promotes better rooting of cuttings.

As for the soil in which the cutting will be planted, it should be rich in humus. If the rose is planted on summer cottage, then it is best to root it in a separate nursery bed.

The cuttings should be planted in prepared soil; before planting, the surface of the soil should be sprinkled with river sand, a layer of at least three centimeters. It is recommended to plant the cuttings to a depth of 1.5-2 centimeters.

The planted cuttings should be watered and covered with five-liter plastic bottles, having previously cut off their bottom. The cuttings should be covered so that the neck of the bottle is directed upward. Watering is done directly through the neck or around the shelter. Cuttings planted in this way should not be opened until next summer; the bottle is removed only if a bud appears.

In young bushes, the buds break off during the first two years. Thanks to this, already in the third year the cutting will produce a well-developed bush, ready for flowering.

As for the period of time when they were given, it should be noted that roses given in winter are the worst to root; from bouquets in March, at most one takes root, but from bouquets given in July, one hundred percent rooting is achieved.

In the event that you do not have a dacha, but want to grow and have this at home beautiful flower, then in this case, the cuttings can be rooted in a flowerpot. To do this, you need to buy special soil for roses. Also, during rooting, it is recommended to supplement the cuttings with fluorescent lamps. Best Temperature for rooting - this is a temperature of 23-25 degrees Celsius.

When growing cuttings indoors, it is very important stage is their direct spraying. For 2 weeks, it is recommended to spray the cuttings 5-7 times a day; the soil should always be moist, but not wet. These manipulations must be performed for 2-3 weeks. After which the number of sprayings can be reduced to 3 times a day, but the substrate in the pot should not dry out. Roses bred in this way are called own root roses. This, in turn, means that if the bush has not overwintered well, it will not die. All you have to do is cut off all the dead branches, and he will be saved.

More detailed and clear information about this process the video tells:

Observations

The strength of the aroma of roses is influenced by weather conditions, so in cool and cloudy weather the aroma of roses is weaker, but in dry and hot weather it is stronger. Rose varieties with dark petals also smell stronger. The aroma of roses is also affected by the thickness of the petals, so flowers with thicker petals smell stronger. Roses that grow in rich, heavy soils have a stronger aroma than roses that grow in light soil that directly drains moisture. It should also be noted that excessive fertilizer reduces the aroma of roses.

Rose is a fastidious and delicate flower, it requires special care. Therefore, if you decide to grow a rose from a cutting, you will have to put a lot of effort into this. But as they say, with a strong desire, a lot is possible. Don't be afraid to take risks, experiment. Of course, having never encountered gardening, you may not succeed the first time, but you should not give up, over time you will definitely succeed.

There are several ways to propagate roses: by seeds, layering, cuttings, dividing the bush, purchasing new seedlings. It will be easier and faster to decorate your plot if you buy high-quality seedlings, but they are so expensive that we can only talk about one or two, and if you want to plant a lot at once, then it’s worth considering other options. Least expensive and sufficient in a simple way Roses will be planted from cuttings. Rose cuttings can be taken from growing bushes (your own or a neighbor's), which will increase the possibility of their good survival on the site. Or you can take it from cut roses given in a bouquet; this method contains less confidence in a positive outcome, but is more motivating - after all, the flower is certainly beautiful.

Preparation of cuttings and soil

There is nothing complicated about how to plant a rose from a cutting; you need to prepare the cutting, root it, plant it in a permanent place of growth and carefully care for it. A prize awaits the one who goes through all these stages - self-rooted roses are durable, unpretentious, do not produce wild growth that would have to be constantly fought with, that is, they do not degenerate into rose hips. Reproduction of roses by cuttings allows you to preserve all the characteristics of the variety mother plant, the exception is hybrids, which may be cut flowers. Almost all types of roses can be taken from cuttings, but remontant and park roses are the worst to propagate in this way.

You can take and root cuttings during the growing season, or more precisely, from the moment the flower forms until the petals completely fall off. This is the time of greatest activity of all growth processes. But many gardeners prefer to take cuttings in the fall, when the bushes are pruned before sheltering for the winter. It’s not just the abundance of material, but by autumn the shoots have accumulated greatest number nutrients they will need to take root and grow new shoots.

Cuttings are small sections of sufficiently mature semi-lignified shoots with 3 – 4 fully formed buds. Young or completely lignified shoots should not be taken, as well as the tops of suitable branches.

It is better to take cuttings from the middles of adult shoots, 8–10 mm thick. They should be cut this way - the upper cut is made even 0.5 - 0.8 mm above the bud, and the lower cut is made oblique, at an angle of 45 degrees, immediately below the bud. As a tool, you need to use a knife or pruning shears with a very sharp blade, which will not crush the twig, but will cut quickly with least losses. Before use, it should be disinfected with alcohol and boiling water to prevent contamination of our planting material by pathogenic bacteria.

Many people recommend treating the upper cut of the cutting with wax or paraffin, and immersing the lower cut in water with aloe juice or a purchased product to stimulate root growth. Lower leaves and the thorns need to be removed and the top leaves reduced by half to reduce the area of moisture evaporation. Rooting of cuttings can occur in water, soil or even potatoes. The soil must be loose and not necessarily nutritious, root growth occurs due to the forces of the plant itself, concentrated in the cutting and its buds, young roots must first grow, and only then learn to absorb from environment nutrients.

If rooting will take place at home, then in a pot or any other container you need to make a drainage layer of pebbles or expanded clay, place soil on it, and on top a layer of about 2 cm of clean river sand. You can buy soil for roses in a store or make it yourself from turf soil, peat, and sand.

Video “Planting by cuttings”

From the video you will learn how to prepare cuttings and how to root them.

Landing

How to plant a cutting correctly depends on whether we want to root it in water, a pot, or directly in the ground outside. If you choose water, you should take well water, if possible, or at least one that has been standing for several hours. There is an opinion that the water in the dishes cannot be changed, you can only add it as it evaporates, even if it becomes green and ugly, but roots are more likely to form in it than in something that is clean and always fresh. Many gardeners advise, based on their experience, to cover the upper part of the shoots that rise from the dishes with a bag or transparent film to create a kind of greenhouse, and place this entire structure in a room with a temperature of +22 - +25 degrees, in the light. If there is not enough sun, a fluorescent lamp will do.

After 2 - 3 weeks, callus forms at the lower ends of the branches - a light thickening, from which new roots will soon grow. Simultaneously with the formation of roots, new shoots may grow from the upper buds; at first they will be red in color, then gradually acquire a normal color. green color. Some people cut off these new shoots and root them, but this will delay the process of forming a new bush, which is more likely to happen if you plant a rooted cutting in the ground.

When rooting in a pot, the cutting is placed on the border of sand and soil with a lower oblique cut. The sand will prevent the stem from rotting when the humidity rises, and the newly formed roots will be able to go deeper and take nutrients from the soil. Rooting conditions for all methods are almost the same - temperature approximately +22 - +25, periodic spraying, light and shelter from above to create greenhouse effect.

The same conditions must be created when rooting outdoors. A small semblance of a greenhouse is built in the garden bed, installing wire arcs and covering them with polyethylene. Or you can simply cover it with glass jars or cut plastic bottles. Sometimes plants need to be ventilated. On the street they will have to be shaded from the sun so as not to burn them or create too much high temperature under cover.

Potatoes are used for rooting cuttings because they create ideal conditions– humidity and nutrition. You just need to take absolutely healthy specimens without the slightest signs of rotting, cut out all the eyes, make shallow (up to 2 cm) holes, insert the lower edges of the cuttings into them. Two-thirds of the potatoes are covered with soil, and it is advisable to arrange a sandy substrate 5 cm thick under them. On top you also need to make a greenhouse shelter from polyethylene film or circumcised plastic bottles. If cuttings in potatoes are rooted outside, then a narrow trench is specially dug for them along the width of the potato plus another 5 cm, a layer of sand no thinner than 5 cm is poured down, all this is covered with soil that is light and permeable to water. And the top is covered with polyethylene, shaded from too bright sun.

There is another way to obtain the roots, it is called a "burrito" because the cuttings are wrapped in several layers of wet newspaper, like the filling of a tortilla in this Mexican dish.

The newspaper must be absolutely wet so that it can be wrung out like a rag; the cuttings are folded into a pile and wrapped in an envelope so that nothing sticks out beyond the newspaper. Then the entire package is placed in a bag. It periodically needs to be unrolled, the newspaper moistened, and the condition of the cuttings checked. If rot appears on any of them, it must be removed. The appearance of roots can be indicated by new shoots breaking through the newspaper. As soon as the roots grow, the cuttings can be planted in the ground.

Planting in the ground and care

A young rose planted in a flowerbed in spring will grow like any healthy plant. Transfer it from room conditions better late spring, when the soil and air have warmed up enough and there will definitely be no frosts. At first, she will need to be covered from the sun, gradually accustoming her to it. After all, the place should be open, sunny, protected from the cold north wind, at a great distance from buildings and trees. It will need to be watered more often and more sparingly than an adult bush, since the roots are still poorly developed and are close to the surface; in rooted plants, even in adulthood, they prefer to grow more to the sides than in depth. There should be no accumulation of melted or rainwater, it is easier for a rose to tolerate drought than waterlogging.

Until midsummer young plant you can water it several times with a slurry solution using cow manure or bird droppings, although the best results are obtained using horse manure. You can apply fertilizers specially selected for roses. Towards the end of summer and autumn, it is advisable to focus on potassium-phosphorus fertilizers and exclude nitrogen fertilizers. There is no need to allow the young bush to bloom; the buds should be plucked off as soon as they appear. Such care will help the plant grow stronger during the first year of life and easily endure the dormant period in winter.

To plant rooted cuttings at the end of May or beginning of July, you need to cut cuttings from a bouquet given on March 8, or root those that were cut in the fall. Brave and experienced flower growers Rooted cuttings are planted before winter. They are planted, like any seedlings, a month before frost, so that they have time to get used to the new place and grow several thin roots in the new soil. Then they are well covered for the winter, it is better to build an air-dry shelter over them using a frame, lutrasil, and cover them inside with hay or dry leaves. If the young plant survives its first winter, it will grow well in next year, will later turn into a healthy, unpretentious rose bush, adapted to the climatic conditions of its area.

If the cuttings are cut in the fall, you can try to plant them directly in the ground in a permanent place of growth, try to root them before frost, and then cover them well for the winter. Many gardeners do this. But this may not always work out, and even if the roots manage to germinate, they risk freezing. They can be planted in a bucket or box, placed in a cellar for the winter, where they will be perfectly preserved, and then transplanted into a garden bed in the spring for rooting. Can in early spring raise them to warm room and start the rooting process by providing warmth, light and moisture.

This method gives good results. Plastic bucket being filled suitable soil, not forgetting to organize a drainage layer below, no thinner than 5 cm, made of pebbles or expanded clay. Sprinkle everything on top with clean, disinfected (calcined) sand. Clean wooden stick make indentations for the cuttings, lower the cuttings into them (before this, it is advisable to dip them in a root growth stimulator), press the sand around each with your fingers. The bucket is wrapped with film to form a kind of pipe - at the bottom it is firmly attached to the bucket (with an elastic band, rope or with glue, a stapler), and at the top it is closed, fastened with an ordinary clothespin. This bucket is placed in an unheated, bright room, like a loggia, and covered further during cold weather. warm materials(you can just wrap it in a blanket) so that the temperature inside does not drop below +1 degree. In such conditions, the cuttings will be preserved well until spring and will slowly take root.

Rooted cuttings can be planted in spring, early summer or autumn, the main thing is to create suitable conditions for them and surround them with the necessary care, to help them survive their first winter outside. This will definitely give good results, they will grow up, to the delight of their owners, healthy, strong, beautiful flowering bushes roses

Video “Pros and cons of propagation by cuttings”

From the video you will learn the pros and cons of propagating bushes in this way.