What should be the overhang of metal tiles? Do-it-yourself roof covering with metal tiles

28.09.2017 0 Comments

The need for reliable and high-quality covering of structures for various purposes is an axiom. Developers are increasingly preferring metal tiles to replace classic slate and galvanized sheet metal. The seemingly complex installation of material, entrusted to specialists, can be successfully completed independently with helpers from among relatives and good friends. Desire, passion, and the availability of the necessary tools must be based on certain theoretical knowledge to obtain the expected result from the work. Theoretical points and useful tips are presented in this material.

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Advantages and disadvantages of coating

The following qualities can be cited in favor of choosing metal tiles: roofing material:

  • environmental friendliness - does not contain harmful substances and compositions;
  • light weight – 3.6-5.2 kg/m2;
  • excellent strength, achieved by the presence of structural stiffening ribs, gives a correctly installed sheet of metal tile with a thickness of 0.5 mm the ability to withstand a load of more than 200 kg/m2;
  • installation and repair of the roof is not difficult;
  • Fire safety;
  • aesthetic classic look with wide possibilities material selection various thicknesses, profile, protective coating and color;
  • minimal linear expansion under the influence of temperature and high resistance to temperature changes.

When choosing a material, you need to know its disadvantages. For metal tiles it is:

  • Tendency to form condensation on the surface of the sheet due to the difference in outside air temperatures and attic space. For a material based on metal, this can cause corrosion processes.
  • Noise when exposed to atmospheric precipitation (rain, hail) and from contact with tree branches swayed by the wind.

Both problems are significantly mitigated by mandatory roof insulation from the attic side. The insulating “pie” shifts the “dew point” outward and at the same time acts as sound insulation.

Calculation of material and necessary accessories

To order a complete set of materials for roofing, you need to measure the prepared structure. Subject to measurement:

  • Length of the slope - measured in the center and at the edges of the overhang from the ridge to the outer edge of the lower eaves board. The main indicator is the maximum indicator with the addition of an overhang allowance.
  • Slope width.
  • Lengths of external (ridges) and internal (vales) angles and their summation.
  • Lengths of ridges and eaves around the perimeter of the roof structure.

All measurement results are transferred to a sketch or roof plan. According to this sketch, a sales consultant or specialist construction company can make an accurate calculation required quantity metal tile sheets various sizes. Sheets are produced in 1, 3, 6 or 10 modules (a module is a unit of area equal to one profile row of metal tiles). Selecting the required sheet sizes will reduce the amount of material waste when laying a roof with complex geometry.

An example of the layout of metal tile sheets on the first slope of a hip roof.

When calculating the number of sheets, their usable area is taken into account, which is 8-12% less than the total due to the overlapping of the sheets. Then the list is supplemented by water collectors, valleys, ridge, snow holders, strips and sheets of steel in the color of the selected tile, and the necessary fasteners. The roof plan should show existing and planned ventilation shafts, antennas, windows (dormers, dormer windows), and chimneys. Their finishing in places adjacent to the roof will also require the purchase of special fittings.

Preparatory work

The main installation work is preceded by mandatory preparatory work. Their importance cannot be underestimated. At this stage they check:

  • The correctness of the assembled rafter system, the accuracy of its geometry.
  • Availability of sheathing and counter-lattice. Compliance of the section of the molding material and the pitch of the sheathing with the pitch of the rafters, the expected load, and the recommendations of the accompanying documentation of the tile manufacturer.
  • The presence of a continuous or additional sheathing of the cornice for reliable fastening of the safety elements used (fences, snow guards).
  • Integrity of insulation membranes.
  • The presence of additional boards for fastening skates and boards for reinforcement in the valleys.
  • Possibility of organizing ventilation of the entire space under the roof. For this purpose, mandatory cornice and ridge vents must be provided. If they are present, air enters the eaves part, ventilates and dries the underside of the metal tile from possible condensation, and is removed through the ridge zone.
  • Has any processing been carried out? wooden structure special means for fire and biological protection.

Installation of rafter system, sheathing and water vapor barrier.

Main works

Step-by-step installation of metal tiles on the roof on your own.

  1. For the intended water drainage system, brackets are mounted no further than 0.7 m from each other.
  2. Nail the cornice strips (30 cm increments) with galvanized nails. The waterproofing film laid under the sheathing is lightly applied to the plank and trimmed.
  3. The first sheet of metal tile to be laid is aligned at the gable and temporarily secured with one screw at the ridge and the other at the eaves.
  4. The next three sheets are temporarily secured and the entire block is leveled.
  5. Now you need to secure all the sheets of tiles to the sheathing.
  6. Next, the operation with 3-4 sheets is repeated until the entire slope is covered.
  7. The edges of the metal tile profile should not reach the ridge axis at least 8 cm. A ventilation tape is installed on them and then secured at the highest points of the profile with self-tapping screws (step 30-80 cm). ridge strips.
  8. The pediment strip is installed from bottom to top: the fastening step is 30-60 cm, the overlap is 5-10 cm. The plank should cover the top line of the profile wave.

Arrangement of valleys

Once the full-size tiles are laid, the interior corners are finished. More on preparatory stage additional sheathing boards were packed into the valleys to be able to withstand the load from possible snow “bags”. Now the gutter itself, made of bent sheet, is laid from below to the ridge. Vertical overlap of sheets is 200 mm. The width of the sheet from the valley axis is 0.5 m per side.

Markings are made on the laid sheets of the gutter (10 mm on the sides of the valley axis), along which the sheets adjacent to the inner corner will be cut. A special seal is attached to the edges of the gutter. The sheets of metal tiles, cut according to the markings, are placed in their places and attached to the sheathing no closer than 0.25 m from the axis of the corner. An indicator of correct fastening is the absence of gaps between the tiles and the seal and the tight fit of the sheet to the sheathing board at the place of fastening. If the edges of the tiles adjacent to the valley were cut unevenly and with defects, do not worry. All shortcomings will be hidden under the installed decorative overlay.

Roofing near pipes

The pipes and ventilation shafts passing through the roof along the perimeter are lined with a wall profile made of bent galvanized sheets with a stable polymer coating. The overlap of the profiles on the pipe is at least 15 cm. They are attached to the sheathing under the tile sheets, and the junction with the pipe is treated with sealant. A “tie” - a flat triangular sheet with a flange - is inserted and attached under the lower profile to ensure that water entering under the roof is drained from the pipe towards the eaves. After installing the wall profile, the “tie” and the metal tile itself, the elements of the adjacent “apron” are installed at the joints with the pipe.

Accessories

The installation of the accessories provided for in the plan is carried out strictly according to the technology specified by the manufacturer in the attached instructions for a specific product. But all installed stairs, railings, ventilation outlets, bridges and other accessories have one thing in common: general rule fastening - through sheets of roofing material directly to the sheathing using synthetic gaskets.

  • Metal tiles are measured material, the length of sheets of which reaches 7.5 m. For its temporary storage or long-term storage a flat platform is selected with wooden beams installed every 0.5 m. The same bars are used as spacers between sheets. A stack of folded sheets is covered and pressed down on top (in 2-3 places) with a weight that can prevent unwanted movement of the material from gusts of wind.
  • The roofing material is supplied to the roof along two boards, like guides.
  • The use of a grinder when working with metal tiles should be avoided, because when cutting, in addition to the edge in the cut area, the polymer coating is also broken (burned) in places where hot metal filings come into contact with it. The second important point is that the warranty for sheets cut by this power tool is canceled by the manufacturer.
  • No seals are used under the decorative valley trim. When fixing the linings, you need to make sure that the valley itself is not damaged by the screws.
  • The wall connection profile can be mounted directly on the wall plane or in a prepared groove with the obligatory sealing of the joint with sealant.
  • A large overhang from the eaves can cause deformation of the edge of the metal tile. The optimal overhang is 40 mm.
  • Self-tapping screws are purchased at the rate of 7-10 pcs/m2. The length of the self-tapping screws for attaching the tiles to the sheathing is 25 mm, and between them is 19 mm.
  • Typically, metal tiles are attached to the sheathing in every third wave of the profile; near the gables, ridges and cornices - through the wave. The self-tapping screw is driven 1.5 cm below the stamping line.
  • Working with metal tiles requires maximum care and delicacy to preserve the sprayed layer. Therefore, when working on the roof, use shoes with soft soles.

The technology for installing a roof made from a metal tile profile is not complicated. Following its points and proper maintenance of the roof in the future can remove the issue of covering the building from the agenda for 50 years.

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How to lay metal tiles correctly? This question is asked by almost all developers who have chosen this modern, practical and durable material for their home. We will try to explain in as much detail as possible what technology for installing metal tiles is recommended by its manufacturers and what installation scheme for metal tiles is most preferable.

The main advantages of metal tile modules are good strength and high fire-fighting properties.

In addition, you will learn how the roofing “pie” works, what materials and tools will be needed when building a roof, and much more. We hope that our instructions for laying metal tiles will be useful to both developers and builders, regardless of whether you are building a house or making a shed from metal tiles.

Metal tiles: installation technology

A design made according to this scheme, with proper selection of materials, will provide you with a reliable and durable roof.

Briefly about the roofing “pie”. Before you start installing metal tiles (you can download the video or watch it below), let’s remember some concepts and a diagram of the roofing “pie”. It got its name because large quantity layers that perform different functions. It is this design, with the proper selection of materials, that will provide you with a reliable and durable roof.

Regardless of whether you install metal tiles yourself or hire installers, it is important to clearly understand that the roof is quite complex design, during the construction of which it is necessary to strictly follow the recommendations for the installation of metal tiles given by manufacturers, as well as all building codes and regulations.

Always keep under control the entire installation of metal tiles (you can download or watch video instructions here), since the consequences of poor quality work may not appear immediately. Thus, poorly laid vapor and waterproofing can lead to the accumulation of condensation, deterioration of thermal insulation properties, and rotting of wooden structural elements. Keep in mind that only by following all the rules for installing metal tiles can you build a reliable and durable roof.

Metal tiles and installation structural elements is carried out according to the following sequence (scheme No. 1):

The technology for installing a metal tile roof requires mandatory protection of the insulation on the MC side using film waterproofing, and on the premises side - film vapor barrier.

  1. Rafter system.
  2. Counter rails.
  3. Waterproofing film.
  4. Vertical sheathing bars.
  5. The initial bar of the horizontal sheathing.
  6. Horizontal sheathing bars.
  7. Additional sheathing.
  8. Wind board.
  9. Gutter bracket.
  10. Cornice plank.
  11. Metal tiles.
  12. Roof ridge.
  13. Ridge seal.
  14. Dormer window.
  15. Thermal insulation.
  16. Vapor barrier.
  17. Attic filing.

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Installation instructions for metal tiles (Monterrey and its analogues)

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Tools and equipment

Installation of Monterrey metal tiles and its analogues must begin with the preparation of the necessary tools. You will need:

1. Hand scissors for metal.
2. Hacksaw for metal (with fine teeth).
3. Perforated metal shears.
4. A special attachment for a drill for cutting metal.
5. Electric nibblers.
6. Jigsaw.
7. Circular saw.
8. Grinder with an abrasive wheel.

  • tool for cutting sheets of metal tiles (MC);
  • screwdriver (preferably cordless);
  • medium sized hammer;
  • a long, even strip or rule;
  • marker.
  • metal scissors (manual and electric);
  • a hacksaw or electric reciprocating saw with appropriate blades;
  • electric cutting shears;
  • jigsaw;
  • circular saw with pobedit teeth.

Upon completion of work, carefully remove metal filings, otherwise they will rust and damage the polymer coating of the MP.

Attention! Under no circumstances should you cut metal tiles with tools equipped with abrasive wheels (“grinder”). Otherwise under the influence high temperatures Not only the polymer layer will be destroyed, but also the zinc coating. The result will be disappointing: a rapid rusting process will begin, and rusty streaks will appear on your roof.

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Installation of metal tiles (Monterey and analogues)

If thermal insulation boards have already been purchased, then the pitch of the rafters will depend on their width, since the insulation will subsequently be inserted between the roof rafters.

The pitch of the rafters for metal tiles should be in the range of 550-900 mm. Keep in mind that if you have already purchased thermal insulation boards, the pitch of the rafters will depend on their width, since the insulation will subsequently be inserted between the roof rafters. As a rule, timber with a cross section of 150x50 mm is chosen as the material for rafters.

After the rafters are installed, it is necessary to take control measurements of the slopes. Check the squareness and flatness of the structure by measuring the diagonals of the slopes. Small deviations (up to 10 mm) are acceptable; they can later be hidden with additional elements.

Please note that if metal tiles are used for the roof, the slope of the slope must be at least 14°. The length of the sheets is determined by the main size - the length of the slope. It is measured from the ridge to the eaves, taking into account the eaves overhang (at least 40 mm). If your slope is more than 6 m long, then the sheets must be divided into two or more pieces, which are then laid overlapping. The overlap of metal tiles should be about 150 mm. Of course, when using long sheets on the slope, fewer joints are obtained, but they are much more difficult to lay than short ones.

The length of the insulation should be 2–3 cm greater than the distance between the rafters.

With daily temperature changes, condensation may appear on the lower surface of the MP. Also warm air from the house, containing moisture vapor, penetrates into the cold under-roof space. Excess moisture leads to moistening of the insulation layer, and consequently, its thermal characteristics deteriorate. As a result, the roof freezes, ice forms on the metal tiles, rafters and sheathing rot, mold appears and collapses. interior decoration premises.

To avoid all these troubles, the installation manual for metal tiles from any manufacturer strongly recommends using insulation of the required thickness. In addition, the technology for installing a metal tile roof requires mandatory protection of the insulation on the MC side using film waterproofing, and on the premises side - film vapor barrier.

To remove moisture vapor from the under-roof space, it is necessary to create natural ventilation, that is, ensure free movement of air from the roof eaves to its ridge. To do this, free space (about 40 mm) is left between the MP and the waterproofing film using lathing. When filing them, gaps are left on the eaves overhangs, and special holes are opened in the rubber seal of the ridge.

Roll out the waterproofing horizontally along the rafters. Start from the eaves, making a sag of about 20 mm. Make an overlap between adjacent panels (approximately 150 mm). Place films of the Yutafol or Yutakon brand outward with the side that has a colored stripe along the edge. It is not allowed to turn the film over. On the market today you can find a sufficient number of certain roofing films. Consult with managers about the specifics of their use.

1. Rafter leg.
2. Waterproofing material.
3. Counter-lattice.
4. Lathing.

After installing the waterproofing material, you can simultaneously lay the roofing outside and thermal insulation inside the building. Thermal insulation boards install between the rafters, leaving a gap of at least 20 mm for waterproofing “Yutafol” or “Yutakon”, otherwise the film will lose its properties. If you purchased Tyvek or Yutavek film, there is no need to create a gap.

On the inner surfaces of the rafters, use a stapler to secure the vapor barrier “Utafol H Silver” or “Utafol H 110”. Lay the vapor barrier sheets overlapping, sealing them tightly with adhesive tape. After completing this stage of work, you can begin internal lining(if it is an attic floor).

The lathing is made from antiseptic-treated beams with a cross-section of 50x50 mm and edged boards 32x100 mm (approximate values). First, nail the falling beams onto the rafters on top of the waterproofing film from the ridge to the eaves, and then attach the sheathing boards to them.

Take the first sheathing board (counting from the eaves) thicker than the others (about 10-15 mm). Now the most important thing is to maintain the required distances between the boards. If you have Monterrey metal tiles, the installation of the second board should be carried out at a distance of 300 mm from the bottom edge of the first board (measure to the middle of the second board being nailed).

Before installing the metal tiles, at the internal joint of the slopes, the bottom valley strip is attached to the continuous sheathing with self-tapping screws. If the planks need to be joined, an overlap is made (100-150 mm).

The same distance for the MP Maxi MC is 350 mm. The center-to-center distance of all subsequent sheathing boards (32x100 mm) for the “Monterey” or “Supermonterey” MP is 350 mm, for the “Maxi” MP – 400 mm. If you have made a rafter pitch of more than 1000 mm, use sheathing boards of greater thickness.

Perform continuous sheathing in valleys, near chimneys, and around the perimeter of attic and dormer windows. On both sides of the ridge, nail two additional edged boards, and end strips lift it above the ordinary sheathing, to a height equal to height MCH profile.

Before installing the metal tiles, secure the bottom valley strip at the internal joint of the slopes onto the continuous sheathing using self-tapping screws. If the planks need to be joined, make an overlap (about 100-150 mm). Then mark and trim (if necessary) the sheets of MP. Install metal tiles from bottom to top.

On top of the junction of sheets (it rarely looks beautiful) install decorative element– the top bar of the valley. Attention! The junction points are the weakest point of the roof. Therefore, to avoid having to repair metal tiles later, be especially careful when installing them.

To ensure a tight connection of the MP roof to the chimneys and walls, an internal apron is installed on the slope. Use the lower abutment strips to make it. Place the lath against the pipe wall and mark the top edge of the lath on the brick. Then, using a grinder, punch a groove along the marked line. After finishing the gating, remove the dust and rinse the working area of ​​the wall with water.

Start installing the inner apron from the pipe wall located on the underside of the slope (on the side of the eaves, not the ridge). Cut the plank into place, install and secure with self-tapping screws. Using the same principle, install the apron on all remaining sides of the pipe. If you have to join the planks, make an overlap (about 150 mm). Treat the grooved edge of the apron silicone sealant(it is better if it is colorless).

Attach the gutter holders to the bottom board of the sheathing. Their mounting method and pitch are determined by the type of drainage system used.

Then, under the lower edge of the inner apron, place flat sheet, the so-called tie, which will ensure the flow of water. Direct the tie either into the valley or down to the roof eaves. Create a bead along the edge of the tie using pliers and a hammer.

Mount the MC sheets on top of the apron and tie. After you put it down roof covering around chimney, proceed to the manufacture and installation of an external apron. To make it, use the upper abutment strips. Install them in the same way as the lower ones, only do not insert the upper edge into the groove, but attach it directly to the wall.

Attention! All movements on the roof made of MP must be carried out only in compliance with safety measures. Wear soft, comfortable, non-slip shoes. Step only into the trough of the wave. Put on the installer's belt and fasten the safety lanyard.

Attach the gutter holders to the bottom board of the sheathing. Their mounting method and pitch are determined by the type of drainage system used. Therefore, please read the instructions that come with it. Pay special attention to the location of the edge of the gutter. It should be 25-30 mm below the edge of the metal tile. This is necessary to maintain the integrity of the gutters when layers of snow fall off the roof.

If the drainage system has a rectangular cross-section, then the gutter is simply inserted and secured in the holders. The eaves flashing is attached to the roof sheathing, with the bottom edge of the flashing overlapping the edge of the gutter. The waterproofing film is installed above the eaves strip (to drain condensate).

When installing the gutter round section you need to insert its rear edge into the locking protrusion on the holder. The cornice strip is installed according to the above method. The under-roof film is also installed above the eaves strip.

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Installation of metal tiles - instructions for installing roof windows

The number of windows required for a comfortable level of illumination in the attic can be determined by the ratio usable area glazing to the area of ​​the room. Recommended values ​​are between 1:8 and 1:12.

Let's make a small digression and consider the option of a roof with skylights. The number of windows required for a comfortable level of illumination in the attic can be determined by the ratio of the usable glazing area to the area of ​​the room. Recommended values ​​are between 1:8 and 1:12. That is, if your attic has an area of ​​100 sq.m., then the total window area should be 10 sq.m. It is recommended to install roof windows at a height of 90-110 cm from the floor level. When choosing windows, also keep in mind that two small windows located at some distance will provide more light than one large one.

In addition, you can install roof windows in groups, horizontally, vertically or in combination. As a rule, windows are installed on the sheathing with simultaneous fastening to the rafter beams. Although there may be some peculiarities depending on the manufacturer of the roof windows. If the horizontal dimensions of the window do not coincide with the pitch of the rafters, a partial change will be required truss structure. In this case, it is recommended to install a rafter fragment and additional horizontal counter-battens to secure it. The opening for the window should exceed its dimensions by 40-60 mm in the horizontal plane and 45 mm in the vertical plane. Typically, installing roof windows is not difficult, since each window has detailed instructions on installation.

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The first sheet is aligned with the end of the roof and secured with one self-tapping screw in the upper part. In this case, a canopy of metal tiles (removal) of about 40 mm is made at the cornice.

Align the first sheet with the end of the roof and secure it with one self-tapping screw in the upper part. At the same time, make a canopy of metal tiles (offset) of about 40 mm at the cornice. Lay the second sheet overlapping the first (if you are installing from right to left) or place the edge of the second sheet under the first - when installing from left to right.

Connect the sheets together with self-tapping screws in the upper part of the overlap, but do not screw them to the sheathing and provide them with the ability to move relative to the self-tapping screw holding the first sheet in the upper, ridge part.

Place the third sheet in the same way as the second. Align all three sheets connected to each other parallel to the cornice. If it is necessary to join sheets along the length, lay them in the order shown in Figure B. Attention! If your metal tiles are equipped with a protective film, be sure to remove it during installation.

Secure the lower part of the sheet with self-tapping screws into the base of the MCH wave. Step through the wave. Arrange the subsequent rows of screws in a checkerboard pattern, also alternating them through the wave. Fasten the side overlaps of the sheets with self-tapping screws along each ridge. The estimated consumption of self-tapping screws when installing metal tiles is 6-8 pieces/sq.m of roof covering.

Attention! When purchasing metal tiles, check with the supplier for warranty conditions. The fact is that some manufacturers provide a guarantee for MP only if they use self-tapping screws of a strictly defined brand. Therefore, advice: buy self-tapping screws from a metal tile supplier.

At the ends of the roof, install end strips with an overlap of 50 mm. Secure them with self-tapping screws every 550-600 mm. Use self-tapping screws 80 mm long at the top, and 28 mm long at the sides. Trim the slats if necessary.

A shaped seal must be placed under the ridge, having first released ventilation holes.

Ridge strips can be flat or round. Start installing the round ridge strip by securing flat or conical plugs to its ends using self-tapping screws or rivets (choose their shape in accordance with the shape of your roof). For a flat ridge, caps are not required.

Place a shaped seal under the ridge, first clearing the ventilation holes. Install a flat or round ridge on the laid seal. Place ridge screws 80 mm long through the wave of the MC. Make an overlap of 100 mm between the individual ridge panels.

A reliable roof, which has high-quality waterproofing and insulation along the slopes, is the dream of any owner of a summer house or country house. Today, such a dream is easily achievable if it is fulfilled.

Before making metal tiles with your own hands, you will need to think about the issue of removing the old roof, which may lack waterproofing. In this case, everything will depend on the technology used to manufacture roofing pie, and his condition.

List of items you will need to install a new roof on your home:

  • hacksaw for metal;
  • anti-condensation films;
  • waterproofing;
  • galvanized nails;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • sealing tape.

The process of performing control measurements yourself

After the installation of the rafters is completed, you will need to re-measure the dimensions of the roof slopes. This is due to the fact that during construction any deviations could easily arise. It is worth paying attention to the rectangularity of the roof, because additional elements can hide only small defects (no more than 10 mm).

It is worth knowing that when covering a roof with metal tiles, cutting sheets should be done exclusively using a hacksaw, a hand-held power saw, or special scissors.

It is worth noting that technology that includes waterproofing can only be used if the roof slope is at least 14 degrees.

The choice of type of snow guards for the roof will depend on what material the roof is made of and how much snow falls in a particular region. The main size that will determine the length of the sheets is the length of the slope. This is the distance from the roof ridge to the eaves, which must be set taking into account the overhang of the sheet from the eaves (up to 40 mm).

In the case where the slope is longer than 7 m, the sheets will need to be divided into two or more fragments, which are overlapped (at least 150 mm). The disadvantage of long sheets that have fewer joints is that they are very inconvenient to work with.

It is worth knowing that when cutting sheets, you need to do it exclusively with a hacksaw, a hand-held power saw, or special scissors. All places where bare metal remains must be treated with a special paint that protects the steel from corrosion. At the same time, it is not at all recommended to use a popular grinder with an installed abrasive wheel in order to cut sheets. Its use is not justified.

How to install the sheathing yourself

The space under the roof must have good ventilation, therefore, sheathing and counter-lattice will be needed. Anti-condensation films will need to be placed between the rafters and metal sheets. The waterproofing should be laid parallel to the eaves.

For soft roof from roll materials continuous sheathing is required.

The material should sag slightly between the rafters. A small slack in tension (1-2 cm) will be enough. Along the rafters on top of it you will need to nail small bars with a cross-section of 40x25 mm. This will be the counter-lattice, on top of which you will need to fasten the flat bars of the sheathing. The distance is equal to the wave pitch of the metal tile. The board that will go onto the cornice will need to be chosen 10-15 cm thicker than the rest.

It is worth noting that the bars for sheathing and all the rest wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic. It is able to protect them from insects and rot.

The installation of a metal tile roof must necessarily include the use special materials for waterproofing. There are 2 types of waterproofing, therefore, it is important not to make a mistake here. The first is intended to protect the insulation and rafters from any penetration of moisture vapor from inside the room. The second waterproofing is waterproofing films that protect against wind, moisture and condensation. They must be installed exclusively on top of the insulation. They allow water vapor to pass through, so it does not accumulate in the insulation. The slope of the slopes prevents moisture that flows from the metal tiles from remaining on the film for a long time.

Do-it-yourself installation of the valley and cornice strips

Installation correct roof made of metal tiles requires protection not only from condensation that forms on the back side of the metal sheets, but also from precipitation. They can pose a danger to the bottom edge of the sheathing, so a cornice strip may be needed here. It consists of a number of boards that are nailed to the sheathing, overlapping each other. In order to do the installation yourself, you should install galvanized nails in increments of no more than 30 cm.

Scheme of a valley roof.

Valleys should be used when the slopes are adjacent to each other. The bottom edge of the valley should be laid on top of the completed cornice strip. It is necessary to use a porous seal to get rid of the gap between the roof covering and the bottom valley strip.

A valley overlay can give the roof structure a complete look; it must be installed after installing the sheets. It is fixed at the top of the wave, the step being 30-50 cm.

The end strip must be installed using self-tapping screws. In this case, the step between them should be no more than 40 cm. The planks themselves must be mounted overlapping (10 cm) along the length.

How to install a metal roof with your own hands

Installation of the covering should begin from the end of one of the slopes after they are completed preparatory work, which include laying anti-condensation film and installing sheathing.

If installation starts from the left end, the second sheet must be installed under the last wave of the first. When work begins on the right end of the roof, a new sheet must be laid on top of the last wave of the previous one. In case there is hip roof, installation will need to start from the middle of the slope, after which the installation is carried out evenly in both directions.

Each of the sheets has a capillary groove, which is located along its edge. This groove should be covered by the edge of the next sheet. The covering sheets must be aligned along the eaves strip.

The screws used to secure the sheets must be in the deflection of the wave.

The obvious fact is that it is not difficult, but there are some nuances that you need to know about. For example, the screws used to secure the sheets must be in the deflection of the wave. It is necessary to use only those self-tapping screws that have a special sealing washer. In this case, they will need to be screwed in strictly perpendicular to the sheathing material. The average consumption of self-tapping screws is not high at all. It is up to 8 pieces per 1 sq. m.

If you screw in the screws at an angle, they will not be able to press the sealing washer tightly, therefore, a potential leak will appear in the roof.

An important issue is the movement on the roof during construction or repair work. It is worth noting that it is recommended to avoid movement on the finished roof altogether, but if you follow all existing rules, it may cause only minimal problems.

It is recommended to use shoes that have soft soles. It is allowed to step only on the deflection of the wave and only in the place where the sheathing will be located under the metal layer. Under no circumstances should you step on the crest of a wave.

DIY ridge installation to ensure good ventilation

A correctly installed ridge is the key to good, high-quality ventilation of the space under the roof.

This element needs to be given special attention when installing a metal roof with your own hands.

The sheets of covering should not converge towards each other, and there should be enough space between their edges under the ridge strip. The skate should be fixed using self-tapping screws that are screwed into the top of every second wave. Will need to be pasted over sealing tape the edges of the sheets themselves.

If you need to make a semicircular ridge on a hip roof, it would be best to use special elements such as Y-shaped overlays.

Even if the person who performs renovation work, will know that he may make a mistake when making a joint with such a vertical surface as a pipe or wall. In such cases, the contact area will be isolated using a junction strip and a self-adhesive seal. Additional sealing can be easily created using sealant.

The lower junction strips must be installed in a groove prepared on the surface (pipe or wall). To do this, you should perform a groove, after which you will need to remove dust and wash the groove. The abutment strip is trimmed, installed and fixed using self-tapping screws.

After the work is completed, you will have an internal apron, but you will also need to organize water drainage. To do this, use a flat sheet of metal, the edges of which will form the sides.

In addition to the internal apron, you can also use an external one, which is created from the upper abutment strips. Installing it is almost the same as the internal one, with the exception of gating. The edges of the planks are simply secured to the wall.

Some difficulties may arise when working on broken roofs. Similar items can be internal and external. In the first case, an abutment strip is used, which is installed together with the seal. If we are talking about an external fracture, you will need to use cornice strip.

Do-it-yourself installation of a drainage system and snow guards

Rectangular systems should be used. The gutters need to be mounted below the edge of the roof by 2-3 cm. The lower edge of the eaves strip should cover part of the gutter, and the waterproofing film should be placed on top of it.

Snow guards are installed on mounting strip using self-tapping screws that reach the sheathing. They screw up every second wave.

The popularity of metal tiles in roofing is explained by its availability and relatively simple installation technology. Metal roofing has excellent performance characteristics and is suitable for roofs of any configuration. Compliance with all requirements when laying such a coating guarantees its long service life. Correct device Metal roofing will provide reliable protection of the under-roof space and living quarters from precipitation. Almost all manufacturers of metal tiles and roofing accessories provide customers with their products detailed guides And technical instructions on the correct installation of metal roofing. The basic principles of installation work are identical, however, there are separate recommendations for specific products. When considering the issue of installing a roof made of metal tiles, you need to decide what the principle of its insulation will be, whether the roof will be cold or warm.


The construction of a metal roof in some aspects depends on the principle of its insulation. There are two main types of roofing – cold and warm. In the first case, we are talking about insulating only the interior of the attic or non-residential floor, despite the fact that outer part Metal tile roofs are not equipped with thermal insulation. In this case, the design of the slopes provides for natural ventilation, which prevents the formation of condensation from temperature differences. A warm roof, unlike a cold one, requires the formation of a multi-layer thermal insulation layer. Design warm roof allows you to equip an attic residential floor, since its thermal insulation qualities will be much higher cold roof. The so-called pie itself warm roof metal tiles must be formed from a layer of vapor barrier, thermal insulation material, which is laid between the roof joists, and waterproofing membrane, serving as an obstacle to condensate from entering reverse side metal tiles for thermal insulation. Vapor barrier film At the same time, it serves as protection against fumes from the inside of the room.

Lathing

One of the most critical stages of arranging a metal roof is the formation of the sheathing. The assembly diagram of this structure is essentially the formation of the frame of the future roof, and the performance qualities of the entire roof depend on its correct equipment and installation.
The installation of a roof for metal tiles can be divided into the following successive stages:
  • erection of rafters;
  • waterproofing film flooring;
  • arrangement of counter-lattice;
  • sheathing.
  • covering with metal tiles.
Waterproofing sheets are arranged horizontally. The first section is fixed parallel to the cornice strip with a slight overlap on it (5–10 cm). Fastening is carried out using a construction stapler. Subsequent sections are arranged sequentially as they move towards the roof ridge, taking into account an overlap of 10 cm on the previous row. The counter-lattice serves as the basis for the horizontal beams of the sheathing. It must be laid vertically on the top of the rafters, essentially repeating their location. Typically, the distance between the rafters, and accordingly the counter-lattice bars, is from 60 to 90 cm. For this frame element, bars with a width of 5 cm and a height of 3 cm or also 5 cm are usually used. The instructions stipulate that in addition, two boards are fixed at the lower base of the roof slope, the height of which should correspond to the height of the counter-lattice, and the width should be about 10 cm. These boards will act as a cornice base.


The sheathing itself is mounted directly on top of the counter-lattice. For its construction, wooden blocks of 5×5 cm or 3.2×10 cm are used. They must be treated with wood antiseptics to protect against rotting, fungus or mold. Required condition is to strengthen the sheathing in the area where the ridge is located. It is ensured by connecting the last two bars.
The distance between individual sheathing boards, or the so-called pitch, is determined depending on the selected type of metal tile. The instructions for a particular roofing profile contain detailed information about this indicator, as well as the size of the step in the eaves of the roof slope. Thus, for Cascade metal tiles, it is necessary to ensure a sheathing pitch between the first and second bars of 250 mm, between the second and third - 350 mm, and for subsequent ones - 300 mm. When installing Monterrey-type metal tiles, the step between the first and second lathing should be 300 mm, and between subsequent ones 350 mm. Metal tiles of the Elite type provide for a sheathing pitch of 350 mm between the first and second rows and 400 mm between subsequent ones.
It is also worth paying attention to the fastening of the counter-lattice elements to the rafters. In this case, experts recommend laying a tape made of foamed polyurethane or polyethylene between the vertical bars of the counter-lattice and the rafters. Such a gasket is necessary to absorb possible slight deformation of the rafters due to drying out of the wood and subsequent damage to the structure of the counter-lattice and the integrity of the waterproofing layer. All components of the sheathing are fixed with nails. Experts, taking into account practice and personal experience, it is recommended to use galvanized nails. Fastening the sheets of metal tiles begins from the lower right corner of the slope. The first sheet is carefully aligned in all directions and fixed to the sheathing with only one screw in the upper part. Next, another sheet is laid parallel to the fixed one. Both panels are fastened together with self-tapping screws. After this, the sheets are once again carefully aligned along the cornice and finally fixed to the sheathing using self-tapping screws with rubber gaskets. Further laying is carried out by overlapping part of the new sheet onto the already fixed one. Also, many craftsmen stack sheets from left to right, slipping the next sheet into the lock of the previous one. This way you can achieve more precise joining of sheets in locks.

Endovy

One of the important elements when installing a metal roof is the valley. It represents the internal joint of the roof surfaces in contact with each other. The base for the valley must be formed from a solid surface. For this, wide boards are used or several standard sheathing bars are combined. The instructions provide for the installation of both lower and upper ends. The lower elements are fixed directly to the surface of the sheathing using self-tapping screws. The lower valley is made of durable galvanized steel sheet. The technology of roofing equipment using a lower valley involves the drainage of water that penetrates under the roofing at the junction of the slopes. The design of this type of valley is an equilateral element with internal corner at 135 degrees, the edges of which are curved.
The upper valley for a metal tile roof has more of a decorative value in order to hide the joint of the sheets with the lower valley. As the technology for arranging a metal tile roof provides, the upper valley is installed at the last stages of the work.

End strips


Another important element of a metal roof is the end strip. This part is designed to protect the edge of the metal tile sheet from precipitation under its surface, as well as the accumulation of dust, leaves or other debris between the end board and the roof surface. In addition, the end strip protects the structure from wind loads and gives the roof an aesthetic appearance. appearance. The end strips must be fixed directly to the end board, and its edge must be in close contact with the metal tile sheet. The end strips need to be fixed in increments of 50–60 cm, and the overlap between such elements should be at least 5 cm.

Based on the name of this element, it is easy to guess its purpose and location in the metal roofing structure. Installation of the eaves strip completes the arrangement of the roof frame. It should be attached after fixing the frontal (cornice) board to the frame.
The instructions for carrying out work on arranging a roof made of metal tiles stipulate the need to overlap the lower edge of the waterproofing onto the eaves strip, which will protect against water penetration into the supporting structure.

Ridge strips

Metal roofing at the upper joints of the slopes requires the presence of protective parts that provide natural ventilation of the under-roof space and hide the distance between the sheet material, providing reliable protection against water ingress. Ridge strips act as such an element. Skates can be either flat or rounded. Their installation technology involves fastening using roofing screws with rubber seals, and it is recommended to lay a ridge seal under the bar itself. This detail prevents precipitation, debris or insects from entering under the roof surface.

Snow guards and other safety elements

The roofing structure made of metal tiles requires additional accessories to ensure its safe operation and maintenance. So, to prevent uncontrolled snow falling from the roof and possible injury to people, snow retainers are installed (some manufacturers label such elements as snow catchers). The installation diagram may provide for the arrangement of these elements in one line at a certain distance, as well as in a checkerboard pattern. These elements need to be fastened after the second or third wave of metal tiles from the eaves strip. Snow guards have two most common designs - in the form of slats of various formats or interconnected tubes.


As you know, movement on the surface of a metal tile can cause its deformation. Accessories such as catwalks and roof railings will ensure the safety of roofing sheets and the safety of movement on them. The installation scheme for such roofing elements should provide for the presence of a separate continuous sheathing. It is also possible to install special ladders, with which you can climb slopes with too steep a slope. The installation instructions for these elements provide for the mandatory sealing of the places of attachment to the surface of the metal tile roof. In this case, the staircase can consist of two conjugate structures - wall and roof. These accessories also include brackets, seals, supports, handrails and wall flanges.

Junction strips

An important stage in the installation of a metal tile roof is the arrangement of junctions of the sheet material with structural elements buildings that are located on the roof. These include roof windows, chimneys, and ventilation outlets. And if in the case of roof windows it is enough to use the parts that come with the window, then the chimney outlet must be equipped with special strips. The correct technology for equipping such units prevents precipitation from getting between the chimney and the surrounding sheets of metal tiles. As in the case of installing valleys, abutment strips can also be used in two types - external and internal. The so-called internal apron completely covers the perimeter of the chimney and is fixed with the location of the upper curved edge into a pre-equipped groove in the chimney masonry. After this, the internal connection is equipped with water drainage under the sheets of metal tiles. After laying the sheet roofing material, you need to install the external abutment strips. According to the internal principle, the edges of these strips are also placed in a pre-prepared groove in the chimney.
Special accessories are installed on top of the ventilation outlets passing through the roof to prevent water or leaves from entering the channels.
To install the described parts, you need to make a hole in the roof and secure them with self-tapping screws, not forgetting about the sealing gasket that comes with the kit. Sewer outlets and mounting points for television antennas are installed using a similar procedure.

Metal tiles are one of the popular roofing materials. This is due to his good operational properties, accessibility and the ability to perform installation yourself.

Pros and cons of metal roofing

Most often, metal tiles are used for the roof of a private house, since this roofing material has many advantages:


 Metal tiles are a durable and attractive roofing material

But metal tiles also have one significant drawback - noise during rain and hail. Therefore, a layer of sound insulation (for example, polystyrene) must be included in the roofing pie of a residential building. This role can also be played by double layer insulation or metal tiles with a special soundproofing coating.


 Layers of insulation under metal tiles do a good job of suppressing external noise

Installation of insulated and non-insulated roofs

Metal tiles can be used to cover a private home and any outbuilding. The roof of residential buildings is always insulated. The roofing pie of an insulated residential attic has the largest number of layers:

  • metal tiles - performs protective function buildings;
  • sound insulation - dampens vibration and noise due to external influence on metal sheets;
  • sheathing - the place where the roof is attached;
  • counter-lattice - provides a ventilation gap and prevents condensation from forming;
  • waterproofing - protects the insulation from moisture;
  • thermal insulation - retains heat inside the living space;
  • rafter system;
  • vapor barrier - prevents the penetration of moisture from inside the room;
  • internal lining.

 When arranging a roofing pie for metal tiles, it is better not to save money so that the roof turns out to be of high quality and lasts a long time

On an outbuilding or summer unheated garden house The design of a roofing pie for metal tiles is much simpler:

  • metal tiles;
  • sheathing;
  • counter-lattice;
  • waterproofing;
  • rafter system.

 Metal tiles are good for roofing outbuildings, sunshades, garages and bathhouses.

Installation of metal roofing

You can cover the roof with metal tiles yourself, if you study the instructions in advance, calculate the material and prepare the necessary tools.


 Before work, it is important to remember the basic rules for installing metal tiles on the roof

Required Tools

To lay metal tiles on the roof you will need:


You will also need a sturdy ladder. For installation work on low outbuildings, it is better to use a stepladder. And to move on the roof of a building you need to secure it wooden stairs on the ridge bar.


 For safety and ease of installation of metal tiles, ladders attached to the top of the roof are used.

Calculation of materials

The metal tile sheet has two widths:

  • total (1180 mm);
  • useful (1100 mm) - the edges are not counted, since the sheets overlap each other.

When making calculations, the value of the usable width is used.


 If desired, you can order material from the manufacturer according to own sizes so as not to cut the sheets later

For determining required quantity material, you need to measure the roof and calculate:

  1. How many rows will there be? To do this, divide the width of the slope (along the eaves or ridge) by the usable width of the metal tile sheet. For example, 5 m: 1.1 m = 4.5. Round the resulting number to 5 rows.
  2. How many sheets are there in a row? To do this, the height of the slope must be divided by the length of the metal tile sheet (standard sheet 2.5 m). For example, 3.5 m: 2.5 m = 1.4. Round up to 2 pieces. If desired, you can order the length of the sheets equal to the height of the slope.
  3. Quantity of material. It turns out: for one slope you need 5 * 2 = 10 sheets, and for two - 20 sheets.

 The color of the screw head for attaching metal tiles to the sheathing can be matched to the color of the roofing material

When choosing self-tapping screws, you need to pay attention to:

  • distance between turns - self-tapping screws with a large distance between turns are suitable for attaching metal tiles to wooden beam;
  • tip - self-tapping screws with a sharp tip attach the metal tiles to metal base;
  • length - long self-tapping screws are suitable for fixing additional elements, short ones - for connecting sheets and fastening metal tiles to the sheathing (2.8 cm);
  • hat shape.

Technology of stuffing lathing under metal sheets

The weight of metal tiles is light, so a special base for it is not required. You only need to rafter system nail the sheathing.


 You need to fill the sheathing under the metal tiles exactly according to the markings

It is important to correctly determine the step of laying the boards. The distance between the first and second boards should be 25–35 cm (depending on the distance between the bends of the sheet specific model metal tiles), then the step increases by 5 cm and is maintained constant.


 The sheathing pitch must correspond to the wave pitch of the metal tiles

IN problem areas(placement of valleys, junction of metal tiles to pipes and near windows) the sheathing is made continuous.

Technology of laying metal tiles on the roof

Typically, metal sheets begin to be laid from the right edge of the rectangular roof slope. Then each subsequent sheet is laid on the previous one. If you move in the opposite direction, then each subsequent sheet is placed under the previous one. If the slope is triangular in shape, then the first sheet is placed in the center of the slope (where its height is greatest). And the rest are already attached to it on both sides. The installation itself is performed in the following sequence:

  1. The first row of metal tiles is laid. At the same time, you should not immediately securely fix the sheets. It’s better to grab a little in one place, align them relative to each other and the edge of the slope. The first row should hang 5 cm from the eaves.


    You can start work either from the left side or from the right

  2. Fix the metal tiles. It is recommended to use only high quality fasteners, since the service life of the roof directly depends on this. You need to place the screws through the wave.


    The fasteners must be placed through the wave, screwed tightly, but do not pinch the O-ring

  3. At the joint, part of the corner is cut off to remove the seal. It is possible to straighten the capillary ditch, which is located under the stamping line.


    If you need to move on metal tiles, then you can only step on the lower part of the wave

  4. Repeat the process for the second and subsequent rows.

    Eat different variants laying metal tiles in two rows, so after studying the installation principle, you can choose more convenient way for a specific roof

  5. Fix the end strips. Lay them with an overlap of 2 cm.

When working with metal sheets, you need to follow some rules:

  • move along the roof carefully, in comfortable shoes, step only on the lower part of the wave;
  • Immediately paint the cut area with special paint. It is prohibited to cut metal tiles with a grinder, as the protective coating is damaged;
  • After installation, remove the protective film from the surface of the material: it will not look aesthetically pleasing if it crumbles under the influence of sunlight.

Video: installation of metal tiles with step-by-step instructions

Installation of roof ridge

The ridge is made of the same material as the roofing. Its installation is carried out as follows:


If the slope angle is 45°, before installing the ridge, you need to check its compatibility with a roof of a similar design. Otherwise, there is a risk of moisture penetrating into the under-roof space, which will lead to complete replacement roofs.

Video: how to install a skate yourself

Installation of the valley

If the roof has a complex shape, then a valley is placed at the junction of two slopes.


 First, the lower valley is attached, then the roofing covering is installed, after which the joint is closed upper valley

Its installation must be carried out in accordance with the technology:


Video: internal structure of the valley

Pipe finishing

Special aprons are used to finish the exit points of heating or ventilation pipes. Installation is carried out as follows:


Video: how to properly bypass a pipe

Grounding

When using metal sheets as roofing material, it is worth thinking about arranging grounding. To do this, you can use a pin electrode or metal pipes(natural grounding). But not pipes with flammable liquids, sewer pipes and central heating.


 metal roof must be grounded to avoid problems during thunderstorms

The cross section of the electrode pin should be 50 mm 2 or more, and the thickness of the steel strips should be from 4 mm. A lightning rod is mounted on the roof: a steel rod 12 mm thick and 200–1500 mm long. You can use a pipe with a sealed end for it. The pin is buried in the ground and connected with galvanized steel wire with a cross-section of 6 mm or more to this lightning rod.

During a thunderstorm, the lightning rod receives an electrical discharge and transmits it to the ground

Video: budget version of a lightning rod with your own hands

Installation of snow guards

On last stage After installation, snow guards are attached to the roof. This element is mandatory if polyester-coated metal tiles were used.


 The greater the roof slope, the more snow guards will be required.

The snow guard strips should be placed in one or two rows in a checkerboard pattern. The greater the slope angle, the more planks you need to use. They can be attached to the metal tiles using the same self-tapping screws that were used to install the roof.


 Snow guards are installed for the safety of people below when the frozen mass of snow begins to fall off the roof.

Video: why and how snow guards work, rules for their installation

The service life of metal tiles depends on correct installation and compliance with maintenance rules. First of all, this concerns regular cleaning. But you need to clean the metal tiles correctly so as not to damage the protective polymer layer. The main stages of caring for a metal tile roof:

  • to remove dirt and leaves you need to use a fluffy brush;
  • if there are more serious pollution you can choose special products designed for polymer coatings;
  • Clean the drainage system only with water under pressure;
  • remove snow with special tools that are not capable of damaging the material (plastic scraper).

Proper care can extend the life of metal tiles up to 50 years.

Metal tiles can be an excellent protection for a building from weather conditions. And it will last for decades, but provided that installation technology is followed, high-quality additional elements and fasteners are selected, as well as timely cleaning and repair.