Do-it-yourself band saw for meat. DIY band saw for woodworking (photo)

Owners of country plots and summer residents who like to do crafts and handmade, you often have to deal with wood. It has always been considered one of the most popular materials for DIY work. Even today, when manufacturers around offer different composites, synthetic materials, the tree remains relevant.

If a large construction project is planned, then a band saw will “free up” your hands when working with wood and lumber.

To process lumber, you have to use special tools. For some buildings and workpieces, simple tool kits that can be purchased at any hardware store are sufficient. But some craftsmen have to design different ones with their own hands. useful devices, for example, a band saw. Even if it seems difficult at first, it really isn't. It’s quite simple to make even in makeshift conditions.

Frame

In order to make a band saw with your own hands, you will first have to master the frame construction scheme. To construct it, it is worth choosing fairly hard wood.

Main components of the frame:

table top;
support rod;
pulleys;
saw blade.

To make a homemade frame more stable and stronger, you must first prepare a drawing according to which the entire structure will be made. It is best to make detailed drawings, but if you have some knowledge, you can get by with a schematic representation of the structure. It is important first of all to calculate the optimal length of the canvas; the remaining dimensions can be adjusted.

It must be taken into account that the finished band saw is quite tall and requires certain conditions in the room where it will be installed.

Therefore, you need to calculate the optimal height with the possibility of installation in a workshop or other place where it will be located. It is also recommended to choose a tabletop height that is convenient for a particular craftsman. The working surface (tabletop) can be made from ordinary plywood.

Hardwood is used for the frame.

The main supporting rod of the structure can be made of durable timber, for example, maple or other wood.

In order to give additional stability to the frame, it is edged with slats. In some cases, you can even use parts from old furniture.

The diameter of the pulleys should be selected in such a way that the design is not too bulky, but at the same time ensures sufficient speed of movement of the blade.

Rod and pulley supports

The support rod must support 2 pulleys - bottom and top. Therefore, it is better to make it from timber with a cross-section of 80x80 millimeters or thicker. The wood must be strong and dry enough.

Supports for the pulleys are attached to the bottom and top of the rod. Such supports can be made from different materials. One option is reinforced plywood made of several layers. Both supports should be at a sufficient height from each other so that the largest logs that will be worked with can pass through this distance. It is better to leave some reserve with the prospect of future use. The pulley axes are selected based on the characteristics of the blade and the motor, as described below.

Desktop

The main requirements for the working surface are its optimal height. Working at the countertop should be comfortable for the master, so it should be high enough, but not too high.

You can also make the tabletop in the form of a closed cabinet, then it will be able to accumulate sawdust remaining after processing the logs. To make cleaning the sawdust collector easier, you need to make the table in such a way that the accumulated waste is accessible, for example, using a door.

Tabletop in band saw for wood, as a rule, it is installed on the lower support of the rod and additional supports; in some cases, you can get by with a simple additional support or supports connected to the rod. The main thing is that the weight distribution is optimal and the tabletop does not tip over.

Pulleys

Recommendations for selecting pulleys usually concern their diameter. It is better to use larger pulleys as this will ensure a longer life for the saw. The thickness of the blade will also depend on the diameter of the pulley. Typically, a blade with a thickness 1000 times smaller than the diameter of the pulley is used.

Pulley for circular

Thus, for a 35-centimeter pulley, a blade with a thickness of 3-4 millimeters is suitable. Experts say that in some cases it is possible to take thicker sheets (for example, up to 5 millimeters in this case), subject to proper use.

In addition, you need to choose the right pulley for the belt drive, and this depends on the size of the main pulleys, the engine speed in revolutions per minute and the length of the belt itself. It is calculated as follows:

First calculate the length outside circle C, for which its diameter D is multiplied by Pi (3.14): C=3.14*D.
It is taken into account that the optimal speed of the saw should be about 28-32 meters per second (the average value is 30).
The number of required full revolutions per second is determined by dividing the number 30 by the resulting circumference O=30/C.
After this, you need to calculate the gear number, which is obtained by dividing the engine speed W by required quantity pulley revolutions O: K=W/O.
The gear ratio K serves as a divisor to determine the diameter of the drive pulley, that is, the diameter of the drive and working pulleys is related to the same number K: d=D/K.

The pulley rims must be convex with a curvature of up to 10 degrees. This allows the canvas not to fly off, being centered on the circles. On the contrary, a small depression is prepared on the drive pulley so that the rubber does not slip out.

The manufactured pulley and its edge are usually tightly covered with rubber, for example, from a bicycle wheel (inner tube).

To ensure optimal and adjustable web tension, the upper pulley is usually mounted on a block capable of moving in a horizontal direction. To do this, use a fastening using a spring and a lever that acts on the block, lifting it. This ensures proper cushioning and no kickback. In this case, the lever must be secured, for which bolts are used at a certain height.

The lower block contains two pulleys at once - the so-called driven and driving, which are located on 1 axis and are rigidly fastened. If their diameters are different, then when calculating the gear number, instead of the driving one, it is necessary to take into account the diameter of the driven pulley, because since the number of revolutions for them is the same, the gear depends on the diameter of the pulley that directly interacts with the motor.

When installing the upper and lower blocks, it is extremely important to install the pulleys under the blade in the same plane. In this case, imbalance in the movement of each of them should be avoided. They should spin smoothly and smoothly.
Sometimes for upper block A bearing is used to aid centering, making it easier to put the wheel in place and to remove it.

Blade guides

To ensure that the homemade band saw does not break, and that the band does not slip out of the pulley when pressure is applied to it, guides are installed under the blunt edge of the saw. This is usually done using roller bearings that are mounted on wooden slats or bars. In this case, the bearings must both guide the tape from the sides and hold it from the back.

It is better to install the guide bar at the highest tension of the tape, selecting the best place for fastening the bar itself. This will avoid deviations during work.

Sometimes instead of bearings they are used wooden beams. For any guide option good addition there will be duplication of guides from below under the tabletop.

To avoid even the smallest deviations during saw operation, the guides should be installed as close as possible to the workpieces being processed. The best option The guides will be a design with removable bars and their adjustable height.

End of work

The top of the pulley should be covered with plywood, which will protect the canvas when it falls. Thanks to this, the saw stays in the body and does not injure those working behind the installation.

The belt drive must be protected with a protective cover.

If there is a collection box for sawdust and shavings at the bottom, then it is better to place a bucket in it or make a separate container to make it easier to get rid of waste.

It is extremely important to protect the transmission belt from any debris getting into contact with it. In order to do this, it should be taken outside, away from the table, while covering it with a protective casing. The same should be done with the engine to prevent contamination.

Wooden surfaces can be treated using paint and varnish materials. This will help the tree to be used longer, and will protect the craftsman’s hands from splinters. Pre-treatment with impregnation, grinding and antiseptics are welcome.

Various tools are always useful around the house, especially when it comes to living in own home. One of the indispensable products is a band saw. From this article you will learn how to make such a tool yourself, what are the features of this process. You will also become familiar with the safety precautions that must be observed when making a saw.

Necessary equipment

Such a tool is needed if there is a need to work with wood. Although some models of band saws also allow you to work with synthetics, metal, and stone. The high density of the described materials requires the use of devices that contain components made of reinforced steel. A standard analogue will not be suitable due to the fact that when processing metal or any other of the mentioned materials, a disk with teeth very quickly becomes unusable.

If we talk about the equipment that will be needed to make a band saw, then this is:

welding machine;
welding machine (it is better if it is semi-automatic);
Bulgarian;
sharpening machine;
electric jigsaw;
Sander;
screwdriver

By the way, electric tools you can easily replace them with manual type analogues. However, it is worth keeping in mind that this will significantly increase the assembly process time and require more labor.

Tools and materials

To create the type of saw in question, you will need the following tools and materials:

a piece of plywood approximately 1.5 centimeters thick;
timber made of solid wood;
tapes or attachments that will be used for a screwdriver or grinder;
a pair of bearings for a drive axle;
studs, washers, self-tapping screws, nuts, fittings;
a pair of shafts;
bolts that will be used to adjust the vertical and horizontal types;
a pair of brass bushings with internal threads;
PVA glue;
upper type axle bearings;
lamb for tuning screws;
insulating tape.

Separately, it should be noted that for correct creation It is necessary to have drawings of certain parts of the saw. To work you will also need the following components:

pulleys;
sawing table;
base;
cutting blade;
mechanism responsible for tensioning the tape.

Selection of tape material

It is extremely difficult to make such a canvas for wood or metal carving at home. For such purposes, tool steel type U8 or U10 is suitable. The log saw should be as flexible as possible. Its thickness for soft wood should be approximately 0.3 mm, and for harder wood - 0.5-0.7 mm. The length of the blade of such a saw will be about 170 centimeters.

It is also necessary to make the teeth yourself, set them correctly and sharpen them. To weld the tape into a solid ring, you need to use solder and a gas torch. The joint seam itself should then be sanded.

More convenient to purchase ready product in the shop. Typically, the width of such canvases ranges from 1.8 to 8.8 centimeters. It is better to select a model for such a saw based on what material you plan to cut. Manufacturers usually offer the following categories of saws:

from hard alloys (they make it possible to process high-strength alloys);
based on diamonds (their use makes it possible to cut materials such as marble, quartz, granite);
made from tool-type steel strips (they are used for cutting wood);
bimetallic (they are necessary for working with metals).

If the saw is homemade and small, as in the case under consideration, then it is best to buy a product made from tool-type steel strips. This option is affordable and practical. If the work will be carried out with hard materials, then it is better to buy an expensive saw that differs high strength which will be resistant to wear.

If such a tabletop horizontal mini-saw will be used for shaped cutting, then the width of the blade should be selected taking into account the radius of curvature. Another important criterion– quality of teeth sharpening. The cutting edge should be as smooth and sharp as possible.

How to do it yourself?

After making calculations and adjusting the sizes of all elements, you can begin self-installation band saw. Main element of the machine carpentry type– a work table where wood, metal, stone or synthetics are processed. This design involves the circular movement of the element responsible for cutting, which affects the workpiece. Fastening is carried out by a pair of pulleys. It should be said that the entire structure takes up a lot of space, so when creating drawings you should take into account the dimensions of the room.

The frame of the bed is a load-bearing part that supports the entire mechanism of the device in question. It is made exclusively from metal profiles that need to be welded due to the fact that due to vibration during operation, the load increases significantly. If the machines are small in size, and metal profiles no, then wood analogues will do. But it should be a solid board 2-3 centimeters wide, and not plywood sheets or chipboard-type material.

The boards should be connected so that the layers meet at the intersection of the fibers. Extremely important detail There will also be a pulley block responsible for tensioning the canvas. The wheel shaft is fixed in an insert that is located inside the frame. The axle is adjustable using 2 studs threaded type. Now let's move directly to the features of the assembly process.

From a bicycle

Let's consider the process using the example of a variant made from bicycle wheels. First, a frame is created that will serve as the base. It can be made from an inch of pine, planed on a surface planer to a thickness of two millimeters. The frame can be glued together from a number of overlapping layers of boards. It is made in the shape of the letter C. A base for a tension guide mechanism with a wheel is installed on top, and two supports are mounted below, which are connected to the base. When gluing gradually, you should carefully monitor the perpendicularity of the parts so that the frame is flat.

The next part is assembling and installing the movable block securing the wheel from above. Such a block must move in a vertical direction and tension the saw blade. An oak profile is fixed to the previously made frame horns, forming a guide-type groove. The block itself is a frame rectangular shape with a holder for the shaft of the upper wheel inserted into it, which moves.

The next aspect will be making the saw wheels. They should have a diameter of 40 centimeters. It is best to make them from either MDF or plywood. The easiest way would be to glue them together from three plywood circles.

It is important to pay Special attention central part. Wheels can be made using a milling machine. A hole is made in the circle in the center, into which a milling-type compass is inserted. This hole is used for combining blanks and subsequent gluing.

Then you should make plywood flanges and place them on the wheels. The flange itself is made of two elements. External part one and a half millimeters thick holds the bearing. The one inside is 1 centimeter thick and forms the space between the wheel and the bearing. A hole for the bearing should be made in the outer part of the flange and pressed in using a mallet. The flanges are glued to the wheel, after which a wheel shaft holder is made, which will be located below.

Also, 4 technological holes are made in the wheels so that clamps can be installed during gluing. When the wheel is glued, it should be immediately mounted on the shaft. If everything is fine, then you can carry out wheel fixation.

After this, a standard drive pulley is attached to one wheel. All that remains is to carry out wheel balancing. You can use bearings as support for the panel where the cutting will be done. After fixing the temporary axle horizontally and putting on the bearings, the wheel is placed in such a way that it simply rotates, and its heaviest part is lowered. Then they make small indentations in the lower part of the wheel from the rear, which will be the last balancing step. Then you should put on the cut inner tubes from the wheels of the children's bicycle.

All that remains is to attach the wheels to the saw frame. First, install the top wheel. Place the washer on the shaft and then secure it with a bolt. The same is done with the wheel from below. Using a ruler, align the wheels in a plane. Both wheels are fixed and tested. Band-saw ready.

From a jigsaw

Let's look at how to make a tool from a jigsaw. To make such a saw, you need to do the following:

form a frame from boards, similar to a cabinet with dimensions according to certain drawings, inside of which mount an electric motor;
make a bar from timber;
attach supports for plywood pulleys to make it possible to saw various workpieces;
attach the frame to the cabinet;
make a hole in the bottom support for the pulley, into which a sleeve with 2 bearings is inserted;
lay a table top made of plywood on top;
sheathe the sides.

After this, it is necessary to connect the pulleys from the motor and the belt that performs the cutting. They are mounted on a shaft made of steel rod. The pulleys themselves are made from plywood circles, which are glued together to form a part 3 centimeters thick. There should be three of them. One is needed for the belt wire, two more for the tape web.

The first one is installed inside the cabinet, and the rest - below and above, as they will activate the saw. A hole is made in the center of what is on top. The bearing is inserted into the sleeve and then fixed. This pulley is then covered with a bicycle inner tube.

The upper pulley is attached movably so that it is possible to tension the cutting belt. The lower pulleys must be attached to the shaft. A strap is put on the one that will be leading. When the elements are mounted, they should be aligned. They must be in a vertical type plane. You can use washers for this. The cutting tape is attached to pulleys, and the machine itself is equipped with a guide part.

Simple plywood model

Let's describe another option for creating a saw - from plywood. To create a base, it is better to take stronger wood. It is also necessary to resolve the issue with drawings.

It is necessary to make a frame in the shape of the letter C, which has already been described above, after which the table should be assembled. Its height should be optimal for work. In addition, it must accommodate the bottom pulley, wire pulley and motor. The table shape can be any.

The tabletop is installed directly on the support from below, after which the pulleys are cut out. They can have an arbitrary diameter, but the larger they are, the longer and better the saw will work.

You should choose the right canvas. The best ratio of blade to pulley diameter is one to a thousand.

To secure the pulley on top, a special movable block will be needed, which must move in a horizontal direction. This is necessary for the tape to stretch. A special lifting mechanism will be required. The simplest option- a block installed under the block and connected to the lever using an extremely tight spring. Also, self-aligning bearings should be provided in the pulley mount on top so that you can quickly put on and remove the wheels. They must be attached as tightly as possible, otherwise the structure will soon become loose.

Reading time ≈ 10 minutes

Do you have a home workshop and want a wood band saw? In this case, you can go in two ways, and both will be correct: go to the store and buy it there the right tool or make it yourself, based on drawings and photographs. Some will consider the first option more reliable, since it is manufactured on factory equipment, and others will either want to save money or simply like to tinker with something, but in any case, a person must set priorities independently, so that this is his personal decision. This article is more suitable for a creative and technically literate audience, although such knowledge will be useful for any contingent.

DIY band saw assembly

Homemade band saw in a home workshop

Firstly, assembling a band saw with your own hands is not an easy task - you will have to use a lot of attention, painstakingness and time, but you can’t do without it, so for those who are looking for easy ways, this is simply not possible. Secondly, for homemade unit you will need spare parts that can be purchased offline or online, therefore, you won’t be able to make do with improvised materials, so in any case you will have to spend some family budget. And finally, thirdly, such a machine is needed for a home sawmill, and if there is a serious need, then the first two points will not become a stumbling block for you.

Drawings and preparation

Band saw drawing with dimensions in mm

Explanations for the drawing:

Pulley under the work table.
Bed.
Band-saw.
A trapezoidal belt with lateral working sides (V-belt).
Damper to dampen vibrations of the machine during operation.
Workpiece guide.
Barbell.
Pulley above the work table.
Desktop.
Electric motor.
Belt drive pulleys on the engine.
Emphasis for rigidity.
Device for adjusting screw.
Rod support.
Adjustment screw.
Crawler.

You, of course, understand that in order to make a band saw for wood with your own hands, in any case, you will need drawings that you can calculate yourself, or find ready-made ones on the Internet. At the top you see one of the options for such designs indicating the dimensions in millimeters, but compliance with them is not mandatory, and you can always change them by maintaining the scale in relation to the original, for example, 1: 1.2, then the height of the desktop will be 500 * 1 ,2= 600 mm, and its total depth is 428*1.2=513.6≈514 mm. It is quite natural that this will make it possible to increase the diameter of the pulleys, the width of the blade and install a more powerful engine, although, as a rule, 2.5-3 kW engines are used on such units.

cutting tape cloth woodworking

Here are the parts you should purchase to assemble the machine:

cutting tape blade for wood;
electric motor 2.5-3 kW, 1200 rpm or more, preferably ≈220 V;
channel, steel angles, profiled pipes of round, rectangular or square section;
steel sheet for work table;
pulleys (can be removed from decommissioned agricultural machinery) – optimal Ø300 mm;
plywood (preferably FSF or FBS), chipboard, OSB (OSB-3);
self-tapping screws (preferably with anti-corrosion coating);
electrodes.

If we talk about working tools, then in this case you will need:

electric welding (direct or alternating current);
Bulgarian with cutting disc for metal;
manual Circular Saw and/or ;
electric or cordless drill with a set of drills and attachments;
plumber's hammer;
small level (400-600 mm);
construction corner, tape measure, pencil, marker, scriber.

First of all, for such a unit you need to weld a frame from a 100-mm channel or profiled pipe with a similar cross-section, starting from a previously prepared drawing. The height of such a structure must be at least 1500 mm, as it will serve for fastening pulleys and other parts. If you wish, you can assemble it from below wooden box where the sawdust will fall - for this you can use any sheet lumber. Below are a few more drawings of some components, where you can see the details.

Textolite damper (5): 1) base; 2) M6 threaded bolts; 3) bar; 4) nut with steel washer

Workpiece guide (6)

Support rod separate from the machine (7)

Geometric parameters of the upper pulley (8)

Explanation of the drawings. The numbers in the captions (given in parentheses) indicate the part number on the general drawing, which is located above the rest.

Let's start assembling

Both a home-made and a factory-made machine of this type provides in its design a frame to which all the necessary parts are fixed, which includes an electric motor for rotating the pulley and an adjustable guide for feeding workpieces in the form of logs, beams, and so on. You will also need a couple of pulleys that are attached to the frame with guide pipes, and it is better not to use welding here - the fastening must be dismountable, that is, bolted. To ensure that the cutting tape does not fall off during operation, it is installed with a slight inclination and protrusion of the edges - these measures will also ensure self-tension of the blade during operation.

Device for tensioning the tape web: 14) support; 15) screw for adjustment; 16) slider; 17) protective cover; 18) M4 threaded screw; 19) bearing 60203; 20) oil seal; 21) washer; 22) grower

Belt fastening unit: 1) lower pulley; 4) trapezoidal belt; 7) support rod; 11) pulleys; 19) bearing 60203; 23) washer; 24) stopper with M6 thread; 25) spacer sleeve; 27) cover; 28) shaft

Axlebox for saw unit (dimensions in mm)

Drive shaft

Since the machine can only be made by attaching all the parts to the frame, it should already be ready, which is why it was mentioned first of all in the “Drawings and Preparation” section. After installing the electric motor, pulleys are connected to it using a belt or chain drive. After this, the control panel is assembled, which consists of only two buttons - “start” and “stop”. It can be mounted on the frame leg, on the wall, or even hung on a hook. In fact, the assembly of the machine ends here; you just have to adjust the fasteners of some parts, but this will become more clear during operation.

You can make your own saw blade (dimensions are in mm)

It is noteworthy that the production of a saw blade does not have to be factory-made, since the blade can be made even at home with your own hands. You only have to purchase a steel blade 10-30 mm wide, sharpening it using a template. Another difficulty is that ring tapes cannot be found on sale; riveting it overlapping is unacceptable - which means you only need to weld it into the butt. This is a very difficult job and most likely cannot be done without the help of a certified welder, although there are excellent craftsmen who do not have a diploma - high professional level they acquire as a result of many years of practice. The welded joint is ground so that the strip is formed without any relief, otherwise the scale may cause the strip to jump off or even break.

In addition, when buying a tape, you can purchase it already with teeth, in a sharpened form - this, of course, will cost a little more, but it will save you from a significant part of the painstaking and complex work. Be sure to pay attention to the thickness of the canvas - the higher this figure, the better quality material, and in addition, the service life will increase along with the thickness.

Training video - homemade band saw

In order to assemble even the simplest belt unit for a mini sawmill, for example, the one described in the article, you will have to shell out a certain amount of money for the most various details. Even if you have an electric motor on your farm with suitable parameters from old equipment, you still need to buy steel profiles, lumber, pulleys, belts and canvas, and this will also cost a lot. But if you follow all the operating rules, you can very quickly recoup all costs, as well as earn some capital.

Checking the cutting blade tension with a strain gauge

First of all, you should tension the saw blade correctly - this depends on its thickness and width, as well as the grade of steel. But in order to make the tension most optimal, you need to use a special device called a “tensometer” (see photo above). Most likely, you won’t have one, but you can borrow or rent a device to conduct at least one-time testing, and then you can do it “by eye.”
Do not hope that the blade can be sawed continuously, for example, from morning until lunch or even until evening - this is not the case. It is best to stop the machine after two to three hours of operation, and then, after removing the saw, hang it in a free state (without tension) for 10-12 hours. This suggests that it doesn't hurt to have several canvases, especially if you have a lot of work to do.
If you work with dry workpieces, this does not imply any problems, but when sawing (dissolving) fresh ones, resins are released that clog the teeth, the tape quickly overheats and can even burst. In order to somehow mitigate such a negative factor, they use an improvised lubricant: at above-zero temperatures this plain water With detergent, and in cold weather diesel fuel with oil.
At the end of the work, it is necessary to loosen the tension of the canvas to protect against the effects of thermal deformation. Steel expands when heated, therefore, when it cools (read narrows), fingerprints will remain in the places of contact with the pulleys, which will significantly reduce the wear resistance of the saw.
Follow the sharpening standards, that is, the teeth should always be sharp and have the same set.
Do not forget that any sawing machine is potentially hazardous to health, as careless movement or loss of vigilance due to fatigue can lead to serious injury and there are many examples of this. Therefore, it will be much safer if all moving parts (pulleys, blade) are covered with a protective casing.
To maintain safety great importance the machine is installed. There should be no obstruction when working with long workpieces, as this could cause the cutting band to break and even cause serious injury.
After an injury, the phrase “I didn’t notice” is often heard as a result of insufficient lighting in the work area. Sometimes machines are installed outdoors under a canopy without the proper power. lighting fixtures(they get by with one 60-80 W light bulb), therefore, in this case you can only work during daylight hours. But it is best to install some kind of reflector, pointing it at the desktop (if it is possible to adjust, then this is even better).
Take care to ground the electric motor and connect it through an RCD (device protective shutdown) or at least through a differential machine - this can protect against injury. The point is that in case of defeat electric shock the person loses control over the body and the likelihood of limbs getting into the zone of action of the saw blade increases.
The platform for the workplace must be dry and hard (asphalt), and if the unit is located on the street, then this platform should be raised at least 3 cm above ground level so that it is not flooded by streams during heavy rain;
When working, place a dielectric rubber mat under your feet.

Homemade band saw - the master explains the structure of the machine

Conclusion

To summarize, I would like to draw attention to one very important advantage band saw for wood, if it is made by hand using drawings. All mechanisms fail sooner or later, but in this case you will not have to call a technician for repairs, since you yourself carried out this assembly and you know the structure of the machine well. But you shouldn’t completely rely on your memory - it’s better to save all the working diagrams to use them in case of a breakdown.

- one of the world leaders in the production of equipment and Supplies for welding and cutting.

Handy everyone good day! So I decided to try my hand at web welding.
This project has been asking for the light of day for a long time, from the moment I acquired a lathe, since when working with metal I very often have to cut round timber, pipes, hexagons of different diameters, and the grinder has already exhausted my soul.
It is unrealistic to buy a ready-made band saw, because their price tag is simply unattainable! And then I saw a competition and decided that this would be the starting point for the construction of this unit. And when else will there be a chance to become the owner of a cool semi-automatic welding machine, which I dream of no less than a band saw.
I don’t know, of course, whether I’ll make it to the end of the competition, but it’s not torture to try, maybe it will work out, and so let’s start:

Some hardware was purchased. That's enough to get started for now.
Sheet 12 mm, sheet 10 mm, sheet 3 mm, thick-walled pipe f325 and f 85, round timber of different diameters, strip 50x8

Next, we draw a drawing of the saw frame in the compass and take it, along with the 12th sheet, to the production specialists to carefully cut out the main part of the saw (bed) with plasma and the cutting belt drive will be assembled.

Here's what happened:

Now we cut out the blanks for the base of the pulleys

We install them in lathe and grind it, we get pancakes on which rings from the F325 pipe will be welded

Next, we cut out the rings, they will serve as a pulley shelf along which the belt will move

We do the first fitting to make sure that everything is correct and future pulleys do not extend beyond the saw frame.

Good day to everyone following the topic!
So the work doesn’t stand still, the next step was to make the pulleys, groove them and center them. We grind the pancakes, cook the rings for them, trim them and grind them.

Next, we grind the seams and press in the bearings, we get a pulley with a shelf for a Ø325 mm belt

Now we make a hub with a tension mechanism for the driven shaft. It will look something like this:

We weld the shaft to the plate, weld the guides.

Now we weld a plate to the hub by which the tensioner will pull the hub.

Next, we weld the tensioner support plate.

We manufacture tensioning devices.

Now we weld the stiffener into the inside of the saw frame.

Next, we scald the entire structure around the perimeter with short seams so that the entire structure does not leak into the propeller.

this is what happens:

Where do you plan to get the canvas itself?

Not the canvas, but the tape is not a problem now, they are soldered to order of any length.

Hello everyone! And the work on the tape is slowly moving. The next step was to make grooves for retaining rings, spacer bushings, bolts and other parts necessary for installing and fitting the driven pulley.

Next, we make the hub of the drive pulley, for which we take a thick-walled pipe, cut off the required piece, grind it, press bearings into it and insert a stopper, try it on the pulley shaft.

Now we weld a flange to it and check again for the pulley shaft.

Then we turn our structure over and weld additional stiffening ribs on it, and an additional corner on them.

We manufacture and weld stoppers for the drive pulley hub.

Many tasks can be completed using a specialized bandsaw created by with my own hands. Using the recommendations in this article, reproducing this device is quite simple.

1 - belt drive pulley (lower), 2 - base, 3 - band saw, 4 - V-belt A710, 5 - damper, 6 - guide, 7 - carrier rod, 8 - belt drive pulley (upper), 9 - table ( plywood s20), 10 - electric motor AOL-22-2, 11 - belt drive pulleys, 12 - bracket (steel angle 40x40), 13 - M12 nut (2 pcs.), 14 - upper support, 15 - adjusting screw, 16 - slider

The desktop of a homemade band saw (dimensions 420x720 mm) is made of 20 mm thick plywood covered with textolite on top. It is edged along the perimeter with hardwood slats. To guide the sawing band, narrow grooves are provided in the table. The base is a box measuring 420x720x500 mm, glued together from 20 mm plywood. Among other things, it serves as a place for collecting sawdust.

The supporting rod is a section of channel No. 8, 680 mm long, the flanges of which, for convenience, are cut to a height of 20 mm. The rod is attached to the table using a bracket made from a 40x40 mm angle and four M8 bolts. The saw belt drive pulleys are machined from 20 mm thick plywood. On the working surface they are covered with dense sheet rubber, joined at the edge. Used polyurethane glue. After rubberizing the pulleys, the wood is impregnated epoxy resin, sanded and painted. The working surface is given a barrel shape necessary to hold the running saw blade. A duralumin bushing is glued into the upper pulley with epoxy resin, in which a seat is machined for a 60203 ball bearing. The lower pulley is mounted on an axle made of steel type 30KhGSA and secured with three 5x20 screws. The axle is inserted into an axle box with two ball bearings 60203, installed at the lower end of the support rod. At the other end of the axle, the driven pulley of the belt drive is fixed through a spacer bushing. After installation, the belt pulleys are balanced. The principle of operation and dimensions of the parts of the sawing belt tension system are clear from the given figures (section A-A).

Belt Drive Pulley (Upper)

The gear ratio of the belt drive from the engine is i=1, so the drive and driven pulleys are the same, with the exception of the mounting hole, which on the drive pulley depends on the motor shaft. The pulleys are made of duralumin. V-belt- A710 (in this design).

To eliminate vibrations of the sawing belt, a damper (vibration absorber) is provided, assembled from textolite parts on M6 bolts. The fixed element of the damper is fixed at the bottom of the work table, and the movable bar allows you to select the required gap. It should be noted that the band saw also has an upper damper, but its installation is advisable if the upper pulley of the saw band begins to “beat the diameter.” Otherwise, the upper damper only increases belt friction. It is similar in design to the main one and, if necessary, is mounted on the rod with M5 bolts using a special bracket 105 mm above the plane of the desktop.

1 - base, 2 - M6 bolt (2 pcs.), 3 - strip, 4 - nut with washer.

The guide for feeding the sawn timber is made of steel angle 100x100 mm. It is advisable to grind its perpendicular planes on a machine. Two grooves are made in one of the shelves along the edges to adjust the gap between the guide and. tape, and in the middle there is a cutout to increase the stroke of the bar. Safety during operation is ensured by a protective casing that covers the entire assembly of the upper pulley of the sawing band, which exits the casing cavity only in the working area.

The saw blade itself deserves a lot of attention. It must be sufficiently elastic, on the one hand, and durable, on the other. For its manufacture, we recommend cold-rolled sheet steel grade U8, U10 or 65G with a thickness of 0.2-0.4 mm for sawing soft rocks wood (balsa, linden) or 0.4-0.8 mm - for harder species. By the way, many people use steel tape measures made of high-quality metal with a thickness of 0.2 mm and a width of about 10 mm for these purposes. "Automatic" modern tape measures with a curved tape profile are unsuitable - only old samples are suitable. The length of the workpiece for the given dimensions of the machine is 1600-1700 mm. On the blank strip, teeth are cut with a file in increments of about 3 mm, after which the strip is soldered into a ring, the ends at a length of 3-6 mm are sharpened to a miter thickness. Then the place of adhesion is sprinkled with borax and warmed up on gas burner. PSR-40 brand solder is applied to the joint and the seam is tightly compressed with pliers with asbestos pads on the jaws (otherwise the joint cools quickly and the metal in this area becomes brittle). If necessary, the joint is sanded. To get more high-quality surface When cutting, the front and rear surfaces of the teeth are sharpened similarly to a hacksaw for wood and slightly set apart. Of course, you can also use commercially available blades for branded band saws, but then the dimensions of the machine should be made in advance in accordance with the dimensions of the purchased blade.

The considered homemade band saw is used for straight cutting of soft wood (balsa, linden, aspen, spruce, pine). You can also cut harder woods (beech, oak, mahogany) when installing a 0.8 mm thick belt on the machine.

Flaw this option homemade band saw - a small overhang of the blade, but this greatly simplifies the design. If the small overhang of the blade is not satisfactory, then in order for the overhang of the blade to be like that of branded band saws, you will have to make the arrangement of the support bar like theirs and use pulleys of a larger diameter.

Technical characteristics of a homemade band saw:
Maximum sawing thickness, mm
soft rocks - up to 100
hard rocks - up to 40
Minimum cutting width, mm - 0.25
Belt drive pulley diameter, mm - 240
Center distance of belt drive pulleys, mm - up to 500
Gear ratio from engine to drive pulley, i - 1
Engine speed, rpm - 2800
Electric motor power, kW - 0.6
Rated voltage, V - 380
Linear speed of the belt, m/s - 35
Tape length, mm - 1600-1700
Sawing speed, m/min - up to 5
Overall dimensions, mm - 720x420x920