Installation of natural tiles: basic calculations and technology for laying clay roofing. Ceramic tiles - features of installation and maintenance of roofing Installation of roofing tiles

Among the variety of roofing materials, ceramic tile roofing is especially popular. And although such coating is quite expensive, it operational properties fully justify the financial costs of purchasing the material. We will discuss what a roof covering is and how to properly install ceramic tiles in the article below.

Ceramic roofing dates back many hundreds of years before our existence. After all, it is based exclusively on clay, which in ancient centuries was almost the main building material. Today, tiles are also made from clay by pressing and firing high temperatures. And to strengthen finished products and making her attractive appearance glazing technique is used. That is, the surface of the tile is covered with a special glaze, which forms a protective glossy layer of the material and enhances its wear-resistant characteristics. The tiles are produced individually and sold on pallets.

Advantages of roofing material

A roof made of ceramic tiles is not only an attractive and rich appearance of the house. In addition to aesthetics, this roofing material has a number of other advantages. These are:

Durability of the coating. In general, properly installed shingles can last up to 100 years or more;
Coating resistance to weather factors. The tiles are not afraid of rain, snow, wind, frost or sun rays;
Absolutely environmentally friendly material. Such coatings are made from exclusively natural components;
The possibility of installing a roof made of ceramic tiles on roofs of complex configurations. This is due to the small size of the coating fragments;
Good maintainability. If a section of the roof wears out, it can be easily replaced using required quantity fragments;
High level of noise absorption. The tiled roof and the residents under it are not afraid of the sound of rain on a stormy night.

Disadvantages of coverage

For tiles, just like any other roofing material, there are also some disadvantages. These are:

Large product weight. The final mass of the entire roof will weigh about several tons. Therefore, a reinforced rafter system is required under a tile roof.
Relative fragility of the coating. So, with very strong pinpoint mechanical impacts, the tiles can break. But this is extremely rare.
Some painstaking installation. Thus, small elements require a careful and balanced approach during installation and tile roofing, which increases the complexity of the process.

Important: The high cost of roofing material can also be attributed to its disadvantage. However, this is only at the discretion of the buyer.

Tip: Tile roofing is best suited for houses built on a reinforced foundation and built of stone or brick. It is worth remembering that tiles laid on wooden or foam block walls of a house will cause significant deformation and shrinkage.

Calculation work

In order for the installation of a roof made of ceramic tiles to proceed correctly and without interruptions, you first need to calculate the amount of material required. To do this, measure the length and width of each roof slope.

Then it's worth finding out usable area tiles. As a rule, it is indicated by the manufacturer. But it should be borne in mind that it may vary depending on the length of the overlap during installation. And that, in turn, changes depending on the slope angle of the slope. In particular, the picture looks like this:

For a slope with a slope angle of 25 degrees, the overlap is 100 mm;
For a slope with an angle of 35 degrees - an overlap of 75 mm;
For a slope with a slope angle of 45 degrees or more - 45 mm.

Thus, from the length of one tile you need to subtract the overlap you need in your case and then multiply the resulting value by the width of the tile. We get the useful area of one element.

It remains to convert the area of the slope and the area of the element in mm and divide the first value by the second. Let's get the number of tiles needed for one specific roof slope.

Important: the number of required tiles is calculated for each slope separately. Especially if there are turrets, triangular slopes, etc.

Advice: if the roof has a slope angle of less than 22 degrees, then it is advisable to protect it with a diffuse membrane. The required amount of material is calculated by multiplying the total area of the roof slopes by 1.4. The resulting value is rounded up.

Installation of tile roofing

Preparation

It is worth understanding that laying ceramic tiles requires thoroughness and leisure. The slightest mistake in carrying out the work and at the very least everything will have to be redone again. In the worst case, the roof will leak.

First perform preparatory work in the form of sheathing and roof waterproofing. The sequence of actions looks like this:

Along the rafter legs at the very bottom (20 cm from the edge) a drip line is attached, which will protect the tree from getting wet. It is fixed with self-tapping screws along its entire length with overlaps at the joints. The apron is tucked under the rafters.
Now two longitudinal beams are attached to the valleys on both sides of it. The ends are cut flush with the eaves overhang. The distance between the beams is approximately 10 cm.
The valleys are laid on top of the beams diffusion membrane inscription up. It will save the corners of the roofs from leaking. The membrane is trimmed along the eaves with a margin of 15 cm per hem.
Now lay a membrane on each slope before laying the tiles. The roll is rolled out over the rafters and gradually secured with a stapler. On triangular slopes, the membrane is attached with 5 cm overlaps on the opposite slope.
The membrane is attached to the drip using double-sided tape and pressed tightly.

Sheathing device

Now, in order for the ceramic tiles that we started installing to be firmly fixed on the roof, we need to properly arrange the sheathing. Start with the bottom support beam. The actions are performed in this order:

The support beam for the bottom row of tiles is filled along the drip. And the remaining ventilation gap under the eaves is covered with a perforated mesh. This will protect the under-roof space from birds settling in it.
Now is the time to attach the second support beam at this distance from the drip edge (support bottom beam), so that part of the tile hangs over the drainage channel by 1/3 of its width. To do this, you will have to attach the tile and try on its length. We mark the place where the timber is attached and fix it.

Important: using a level you need to ensure the evenness of the timber.

Then the top beam of the sheathing is nailed at a distance of 3 cm from the intersection of the counter-batten beam in the ridge area.
The sheathing provides support for the top and bottom of each row of shingles. Therefore, it is important to correctly calculate its step. To do this, you need to measure the distance from the outermost upper and lower support beam of the sheathing. We divide the value by the useful height of one tile. We get the number of support beams. We place them at a distance equal to the length of one tile. We apply all the marks with a control cord, so that later it will be easier to correctly fix the beams.
Now the stuffed beam needs to be cut along the edge from top to bottom in one line so that it protrudes no more than 30 cm from the outer rafter leg.
Counter battens are also installed under the sheathing beams along the edge. Then the edge of the remaining membrane is folded over it and secured with a stapler.
And all that remains is to fill the front board along the timber covered with the membrane. The remainder of the membrane is cut off.

Along the eaves, fastenings for the gutter are installed in increments of 70 cm. The slope of the gutter must be at least 3 mm for each meter of its length along the slope. Therefore, it is necessary to number the curved fasteners before fixing them and then arrange them in the desired order.

Important: the edge of the gutter closest to the wall should be 1 cm higher than the farthest one. To do this, all fasteners must be correctly bent at a given angle using a bending bracket.

All fastenings are fixed with self-tapping screws. Then a pre-assembled gutter is installed on them. The ends of the gutter are covered with a plug tip. The drainage pipes are connected to the gutter in accordance with their instructions.

Now you need to attach to the bottom edge of the overhang plastic apron, which will extend over the edge of the gutter and prevent water from entering the wall of the house.

Waterproofing device in the valley

In this place it is necessary to install increased sheathing due to the strong snow load in these places. The technology for laying tiles involves installing the valley gutter from the bottom up. It is fixed at the top with two self-tapping screws. The next section of the gutter is laid with an overlap on the lower fragment and is also fixed with self-tapping screws. The groove on both sides is fixed with special staples in increments of 20-30 cm. The joints are glued with sealing tape and rolled with an orlik.

Laying tiles

The first tile must be laid on the lower outermost beam of the overhang so that its outermost projection joins the front board. In this case, the supporting tenon of the tile is knocked down with a hammer.
Now we lay out a row of tiles and fix each of them with a self-tapping screw through the drilled hole.
Then we lay the column of roofing material, moving from bottom to top. Each tile is attached at the top with a self-tapping screw. You can also fix the tiles using special clamps, but this takes longer.

Important: all tiles are laid from right to left and from bottom to top according to the applied markings.

To lay the tiles in the valley, you should mark it with a cord so that the overlap of future elements on it is at least 8 cm. The tiles must be cut with a grinder at an angle.

Important: Avoid small triangles of tiles in valleys that are difficult to secure. To prevent this from happening, you can use half parts of the roof in the rows, shifted away from the valley. That is, in the valley there should be a large piece of tile cut at an angle.

The visible part of the valley, not covered with tiles, should be no more than 13-15 cm.

Tip: to lay a ceramic roof on a triangular roof slope, you need to mark the middle from its top to the base. Then the tiles are laid, moving to the sides from the center of the base of the triangle. The outer tiles are cut at an angle when laying.

Now we install the ridge beam and cover it with a membrane. The ends of the timber are covered decorative elements. Ridge beam covered with ridge tiles fixed on special clamps. The corners of the roof slopes are also covered using the same principle.

Advice: since tiles on a pallet weigh about a ton, you should correctly distribute the load on the rafter system when lifting the roofing material to the top. And to do this, the raised covering is laid out in stacks of several pieces along the entire perimeter of the slope.

Makes your home stylish, sophisticated and charming. Moreover, such a roof without losing its beauty and shade. But this will only happen if it is installed correctly.

It's worth remembering that this material suitable for roofs with a slope of more than eleven degrees (optimally fifty degrees). And today we will look at the technology for installing ceramic tiles, offer installation instructions and the price of work and materials per m2.

Clay ceramics is a material characterized by its solid weight. Therefore, in addition to arranging a strong rafter system, you also need to think about how the tiles will be delivered to the roof. That is, provide suitable lifting equipment.

Transportation of tiles is carried out using special pallets (each weighs about nine hundred and fifty kilograms).

To attach individual roofing elements to the sheathing, galvanized (or stainless steel) screws, as well as nails and wire are used. Shingles typically have small keyhole-shaped holes in them. The fastening takes place through these holes. If you need to make additional holes, then use a special roofing tool - a hole punch designed for ceramic tiles.

And special steel cutters allow you to evenly cut pieces of ceramic roofing. In addition, roofing pliers with lips of various lengths are produced to work with this material. They are made from durable induction-hardened steel. The rest of the tools are standard: screwdriver, hammer, screwdriver (for sheathing). If you don't have a cutter, you can use a grinder.

This video will tell you about the construction of a ceramic tile roof valley:

Material calculation

Whatever material the roof is made of, the entire structure must be able to withstand load forces of up to two hundred kilograms per square meter. To make the calculations correctly, add to this value the weight of the ceramic (about fifty kilograms per square meter).

Please note that during installation it is necessary to provide for an overlap depending on the slope of the roof. Its value is ten centimeters if the slope is less than twenty-five degrees.

If the slope is increased (ranging from twenty-five to thirty degrees), then an overlap of seven and a half centimeters will be enough.
And with a slope of over forty-five degrees, this value decreases to four and a half centimeters.

You can calculate the length of the material (useful) if you subtract from the total length of the ceramic part the size of the segment that is necessary to create an overlap. Well, the usable width is usually indicated in the instructions. Based on the numbers obtained, calculate how many tiles will be needed per square meter.

Number of individual roofing elements required to cover the entire length of the slope can be calculated based on their useful length. Dividing these two values by one another, we get the number of rows. We multiply this number by the number of parts in the row and get total tiles for slope. To determine how much waterproofing is needed, multiply the total area of the slopes by 1.4.

Another tip: you can use it for accurate calculations of all materials online calculator. There are quite a lot of them on the Internet.

We’ll talk about the technology of ceramic tile roofing below.

Technologies for installing ceramic tiles

First steps

Let's start with the sheathing. For it you will need bars of five by five centimeters (or six by four centimeters). We place along the sections of the eaves wooden parts two centimeters wider than where the ordinary elements are located. The number of horizontal bars in such a sheathing will be equal to the number of rows of tiles with the addition of one more row - a cornice row.

For marking, templates cut to the size (height) of the tiles, as well as coated cord, are used. Horizontal slats joined on the rafters. The sheathing pitch (optimal) is usually from thirty-one to thirty-four centimeters.

An aero element must be installed under the ridge for ventilation. A waterproof tape is placed along the entire length of the ridge. We should not forget about waterproofing and vapor barrier. There must certainly be space between the sheathing and the layer of tiles.

Before laying the tiles, they are distributed in stacks (about five pieces) over the entire surface of the roof. Then a row is laid on top - along the ridge of the roof. After this, we proceed to fixing the bottom row (along the overhang). We fix the elements only after we check whether they are laid correctly.

Instructions for installing ceramic tiles are presented in the video below:

Direct installation

We carry out installation starting from the bottom of the roof, moving upward. And also from right to left. At the end, ridge and pediment elements are attached. Moreover, the ridge elements should touch the edged ridge board only where they are attached. Where the roof ridge and gable intersect, adjustments will have to be made by cutting the tiles.

The tile itself can be of several types, each of which has its own fastening nuances.

So, if it is a groove tile belt type, then it is placed with the rows overlapping each other, connecting using the existing grooves.
The grooved stamped tiles are laid in the same way (only you will need more wire for them).
But flat tiles of the strip type are devoid of grooves. It is also laid overlapping from bottom to top, with each odd row on the edge containing half a tile (brick laying principle). Protrusions outside and inside, as well as roofing nails, help with fastening.

Some installation tips:

Holes for ventilation must be made under the eaves.
When waterproofing is installed, a slight deflection is left between the rafters. The waterproofing layer is laid with an overlap of fifteen centimeters, securing it with nails at a distance of twenty-five centimeters.
A little more than a meter wide waterproofing is placed under the valleys. The overlap of the tile tiles on the valleys is approximately twenty centimeters.
The thickness of the ridge board (equipped with mandatory aerators) must be at least four centimeters.
By gluing self-adhesive tape (double-sided) to the valley, you can improve the waterproofing.
If the valley is longer than six meters, it is necessary to lay out a row of ventilation tiles.

The cost of installing ceramic tiles is described below.

Cost of work

Having ordered the installation of tiles by professionals natural roofing, you'll have to spend money. It costs about seven hundred rubles per square meter.

This is if all components of the roofing system are standard. But if you have a complex roof shape, additional costs will be required.

A specialist will tell you how to install the ridge and abutments when laying ceramic tiles in the video below:

1.
2.
3.

It will not be a secret to anyone that one of the most popular and, no less important, quality materials used for roofing is ceramic tile roofing. Thanks to this natural coating, living conditions in the house remain comfortable at any time of the year, both summer and winter. Moreover, the range of material profiles is wide, and the color palette is also varied. Known fact is also the fact that roofing made from ceramic tiles is possible on those roofs that have the most complex shapes and curved planes, and therefore the popularity of the coating in the construction of country cottages is only increasing.

However, the installation process should be approached with extreme caution, since ceramics are a rather fragile material, and the considerable weight of ceramic tiles only complicates the work on its installation.

That is why, before proceeding directly to installation work, you should familiarize yourself in more detail with such a material as ceramic tiles, the characteristics of which require a special approach. Thus, it is recommended to use the coating on those roofs whose roof slope is from 10 to 90 degrees. If there are slopes with an angle of 10 to 22 degrees, then it is necessary to lay an additional waterproofing layer, usually represented by a modified roll coating. If the tiles are laid on a roof with a slope of more than 50 degrees, then they should be additionally secured with screws. In addition, a reinforced frame must be made, a special surface for which must be equipped and an installation technology corresponding to the profile must be selected.

Laying the rafter system and roof pie

When a ceramic tile roof is installed, it is important to correctly install the supporting structure, which consists, first of all, of strengthening the rafter legs, since the load on the roofing covering is 40 - 60 kilograms per 1 m². Therefore, well-dried wood (maximum 15% humidity) should be used as a material for rafters. The section of the beam should be 50x150, and a beam with a section of 60x180 will help to further enhance the strength of the structure. Calculating the distance between rafter legs, it should be remembered that the longer they are, the smaller the step between them should be.

After installing the rafter system, it is necessary to install insulation equipped with a vapor barrier. It will be sealed with construction tape, which must be used to seal the material. The rafter end is equipped with a counter-lattice, which provides a ventilation gap of 50 millimeters between the insulation and waterproofing layers, due to which the space under the roof is provided with normal air access. After this, you need to lay waterproofing on the counter-lattice and nail the lathing, which is the basis for the roofing, perpendicularly to the rafters.

Thus, laying ceramic tiles is invariably accompanied by the installation of sheathing, which is very important when constructing a roof. Its basis is wooden beam, having a cross-section of 40x40 or 40x50 millimeters. The width of the eaves board, which should be laid 20 - 30 millimeters higher than the rest, can be 100 millimeters. Thus, the laying of tiles on the slope will be level, and the space under the roof will be ventilated.

Then you need to calculate the pitch of stuffing the material on the rafter legs. The easiest way to do this is to subtract the overlap for installation from the width of the tiles. The indicator will be approximately 310 - 345 millimeters, and the width of the tiles will be 400 millimeters. Markings for rows should be made with a cord attached to the counter-lattice.

Laying ceramic tiles

When working with a material such as ceramic tiles, the sizes and types of which directly affect the installation technology, you should know the types of this coating.

Today the construction market offers the following options:

flat tiles. It should be laid from bottom to top, and 2–3 layers can be used at once;
grooved tiles. Stacked from left to right;
groove tiles. Laying starts from the cornice and moves upward.

Choosing a roof covering for a bathhouse is both a simple and complex question. Even a large number of The roofing options offered by manufacturers cannot satisfy everyone without exception; each bathhouse owner tries to find his own solution. And we do not intend to give advice on choosing specific type roofing, everyone should listen to their own opinion - there is no ideal roof, just as there is no completely bad one, each has strengths and weaknesses, very large fluctuations in price and installation complexity.

Piece roofing tiles are considered the most prestigious and complex; they can be natural ceramic, concrete, with additives of polymers, dyes, etc. Metal and flexible tiles are considered a cheaper option, although among these types of coverings the price difference by brand may vary factor of. It all depends on the material, manufacturing technology and final performance characteristics. Coating options for metal and flexible tiles They are found most often in bathhouse coverings, so we’ll focus on them for now.

To begin with, it is advisable to familiarize yourself a little brief characteristics coverings.

Prices for metal tiles

metal tiles

Advantages

Low cost, quick installation, wide selection of colors and geometric shapes. Durability can also be mentioned, but this indicator depends not only on the brand, but also on the manufacturer. If the tiles are manufactured with gross deviations from generally accepted standards and with violations of technology, then after 6–7 years the coating will have to be repaired or replaced. Conscientious licensed manufacturers provide a guarantee of 25 years or more for elite brands of products.

Flaws

It makes noise during heavy rain or hail. The disadvantage is not critical; no one is going to sleep lightly in a bathhouse. And if there is an attic on the second floor, then the mineral wool used to insulate the roof perfectly dampens sound vibrations. Conclusion - metal tiles are an excellent roofing covering for baths.

Metal tiles must be transported only in a horizontal position; the length of the body must be greater than the length of the material. Unload the roofing carefully, carry the sheets only in a vertical position, do not allow sharp bends.

We will describe the most difficult installation method metal tiles- With warm roof. Depending on specific use attic spaces you can simplify the installation process and skip some operations.

Step-by-step installation instructions

Step 1. Check the correct construction and dimensions of the rafter system. Most baths have the simplest gable roof types; checking their dimensions does not take much time.

How to do it? First you need to check the diagonals of the rafter system; the difference in values should not exceed two centimeters; such a spread can be easily hidden by additional elements. Next, pull a rope between the outer rafters, they should all lie in the same plane. Places with deviations should be noted; corrections of deflections are done while nailing the sheathing.

Step 2. If possible, process everything wooden elements rafter system with antiseptic agents of complex action. They will reliably protect the tree from damage by rot and pests and increase its performance. fire safety. For a bathhouse this is an important factor.

Step 3. Laying waterproofing.

It will protect the insulating layer from moisture vapor condensation. Condensation always forms on the underside of metal tiles; droplets of water can fall on mineral wool, which significantly reduces its heat-protective properties. In addition, prolonged contact of wet cotton wool with wooden structures can cause premature damage. The insulation itself will be laid on the roof from the attic side and additionally protected by a vapor barrier layer.

Waterproofing is sold in rolls; during installation you need to follow the markings; there are lines on the front surface. Simple bathhouse roofs do not have valleys, but they may have a chimney outlet. Start doing waterproofing right around the chimneys, stretch the material along the entire perimeter and secure with a stapler. Make sure that all overlaps are directed in the direction of condensate drainage; it is advisable to glue the membrane joints with special tape or ordinary tape.

The chimney has been processed - proceed to waterproofing the slopes. Place the rolls from bottom to top and secure them to the rafters with a stapler. Do not allow the material to sag significantly; under no circumstances should it touch the mineral wool. The membrane can be additionally fixed to the rafters with 50x50 mm counter-lattice slats.

This device increases efficiency natural ventilation between roofing covering and lathing. Some builders skip this operation; they believe that the gaps between the sheathing and the covering sheets are sufficient for ventilation. Both methods have a right to life, but we would not recommend saving too much when arranging roofing coverings.

Step 4.

Nail wind boards along the eaves, and wrap the waterproofing over the boards.

For lathing, you can use boards 30 mm thick and 100 mm wide or slats 30x50 mm. The first board or batten from the eaves should be a centimeter thicker than the others to increase the strength of fixation of the sheets and prevent them from being undermined by strong gusts of wind. The pitch of the sheathing should be equal to the pitch of the wave of metal tiles.

Lathing for metal tiles - photo

Nail the first batten at the eaves and check its position. It must be strictly parallel to the ridge, otherwise the waves of the tiles on the roof will not be perpendicular to it, and this is considered a defect. In order to speed up the process of nailing the sheathing, you need to cut several slats along the length of the wave pitch; they will be used as a template. There is a second method to speed up the work - use a rope with blue to beat off parallel lines along the counter-lattice at the required distance. When nailing the slats, be guided by these lines. The skate must have slats; the distance of the slats from the skate cannot exceed ten centimeters. Slats are needed to fix the ridge metal element roofing covering.

The wavelength of metal tiles depends on the brand and thickness of the sheet; select tiles taking into account the individual characteristics of the roof. Each manufacturer supplies its products with instructions describing the optimal roof performance and climate zone. Along the perimeter of the chimney you need to make a continuous sheathing approximately 20÷25 centimeters wide.

Step 5. Installation of a chimney apron.

All manufacturers produce additional elements for roofing, and their list also includes metal flashings for chimneys. They look like flat plates; you need to cut the technological bends yourself, taking into account the dimensions of the chimney.

Measure the width of the bottom of the chimney, beat off this value on the bar symmetrically to the edges. Draw a line about 10 centimeters wide with a marker, cut off the vertical edges with scissors, and bend them perpendicular to the drawn line. The entire part of the apron along the line must be bent at an angle equal to the exit angle of the chimney wall on the roof slope. Don’t be afraid to make a mistake; when fixing the element, the angle will be adjusted to the existing dimensions.

Installation diagram of additional elements around the chimney

Start installing the apron from the bottom wall brick pipe. Under the lower element of the apron should be placed flat sheet metal (tie) with flanges on the sides, along it the water will flow into the catch basins. The side walls of the pipe are finished in the same way, and the top part is sealed last.

In order to prevent water from getting through the chimney stacks under the roofing, it is recommended to recess the side strips into the brickwork. To do this, you need to attach it to the wall and draw a line of contact with the upper edge of the strip on the chimney. Bulgarian with diamond blade a line (groove) is cut along the marked location. The cut needs to be cleaned of dust and washed. The curved edge of the strip is inserted into the groove and sealed along the entire length with silicone. This should be done around the entire perimeter of the brick chimney. The planks are screwed with countersunk screws to the roof sheathing. The junction points are the most dangerous in terms of leaks; be very careful when performing all operations to seal them.

The external chimney sealing apron is installed after laying the metal tiles. Some craftsmen do not want to install an internal apron; we do not recommend simplifying the process of installing the coating by increasing the risk of leaks. By time full installation one apron will not take more than two to three hours; this is not the time, by saving which you can expose the entire roof of the bathhouse to additional risk.

Step 5. Installation of hooks for the drainage system.

The hooks should be fixed before installing the metal tile drip, this is very important. Immediately after the hooks, you can install cornice strips.

Important. Bottom cornice strip should drop slightly into the gutter. Otherwise, in case of strong gusts of wind rainwater will fall on the wooden elements of the cornice. The gutter of the drainage system itself can be installed after installing the metal tiles.

The distance between the holders is approximately 50 centimeters. The overall slope of the gutter should be at least three millimeters per meter of length; mark a line on each holder for bending in the desired location.

Let's look at how to do this with an example. Let’s say the length of the bathhouse roof slope is 6 meters, the slope between the outer holders should be approximately 6×3 = 18 millimeters. Place all the hooks in a row and align their ends. On the first, mark the bend point, and on the last, mark a point ≈18 millimeters below the first. Connect the dots with a line; each hook will have a mark for its bend. Of course, the holders need to be numbered so that later during fastening they do not change places. Don’t be upset if you fail to maintain millimeter precision during bending; the gutter itself will fall into place over time.

Step 6. A hole for the outlet funnel is marked on the gutter; the width of the hole depends on the diameter of the drainage system. The hole is cut with a hacksaw for metal. Insert the gutter into the holders with an overlap of several centimeters; the edges of the individual pieces of the gutter should fit into the special seats. Secure the gutter with metal tabs to the holders. To improve the sealing of the joints of individual pieces of the gutter, seals can be installed. Plugs are installed at the ends of the gutter. The funnel is installed under the hole and fixed by bending the metal tongue.

Step 7 On top of the installed cornice strip you need to bring out the edges of the waterproofing sheet and glue it double-sided tape. In this position, condensation will fall from the canvas into the gutter, and not under the cornice.

Step 8 Sheets of metal tiles are lifted onto the roof one at a time; you can use wooden logs installed from the ground with emphasis on the beginning of the slope.

If the bathhouse is two-story, then you should use canvas straps to lift it.

The first sheet must be laid exactly along the line of the eaves and the end of the roof.

If the rafter system was made according to all the rules, then no problems should arise. If there are errors, place the first sheet with an offset of no more than 1÷2 cm, the last sheet will also have such an offset. The end additional element will cover the unevenness of the sheets.

Fastening is done with special roofing screws with rubber washers.

Self-tapping screws for metal tiles, how many are needed for 1 sq. m.

Important. The self-tapping screw must be screwed into the sheathing by at least two centimeters.

At the bottom of the sheet, fastenings are made in each deflection of a wave; subsequently, the sheets are fastened through the deflection in a checkerboard pattern. If the sheets are stacked from left to right, then the second sheet overlaps the first, if in the opposite order, then it overlaps the first. This should be kept in mind and do not tighten the screws on the outer waves of the metal tiles before laying two sheets.

You need to move on the roof very carefully, only in soft shoes, your feet should be placed only in places where the waves bend.

Self-tapping screws must be tightened without under-tightening or over-tightening. The rubber washer should be pressed tightly against the surface of the sheet, but not deform it.

Step 9 Installation of ridge strips.

They can be flat or semicircular, and are equipped with end caps of the appropriate profile. Place the planks with an overlap of up to 10 centimeters and secure them to the metal tiles with ridge screws.

Step 10 Installation of end strips.

Align the ends, all the sheathing slats should be on the same line. The planks are fixed to the wind boards on one side, and to the roofing on the other.

If the bathhouse uses a metal sandwich pipe for the chimney, then in order to reach the roof, you need to install a special additional device for engineering equipment - a rubber outlet. The diameter of its outlet changes due to cutting off the upper part of the corrugated seal.

How to seal the outlet of a metal pipe

Step, No.	Description	illustration
Step 1	Mark the location of the chimney outlet on the roof and cut a hole with metal scissors
Step 2	Make the same hole in the waterproofing, apply silicone sealant on the waterproofing seal, glue it and secure it to the slats or sheathing boards with metal strips
Step 3	Place the base of the exit to the metal tile profile and bend it to size
Step 4	Apply a layer of sealant on the bottom side of the outlet, install the outlet in place and secure it around the perimeter with self-tapping screws. The diameter of the rubber insert of the device should be approximately 20% less than the diameter of the chimney pipe

If you wish, you can install it on the roof ventilation holes. The technology is no different from that described above, only the appearance and engineering design of the ventilation cap differs.

The final touch is the snow guards. It is recommended to install them in areas with heavy snow cover; they protect drainage systems from mechanical damage. The brackets are placed at the bottom of the metal tile wave just above the sheathing. Mark the locations and use a thin drill to drill holes in the tiles and slats. They are needed for bolts and screws of increased strength; snow retainers must withstand heavy loads. It is recommended to fasten the brackets on rubber pads; the snow retention tubes are inserted into the holes of the brackets.

Prices for snow guards

snow guards

Video - Installation of metal tiles

Rules and step-by-step instructions for installing flexible tiles

Among modern roofing materials, flexible tiles occupy a worthy place; they are a coating of universal use; they can be used to cover the most complex conical, domed or sloping roofs.

In terms of price value, the material belongs to the average category. Of course, the price range among different brands and manufacturers of flexible tiles can be significant, but based on the average cost, this is a roofing material that is quite affordable for most users. You can see her very often at the baths. All advertising brochures manufacturers attract the attention of buyers with excellent photographs of various objects, where the roof has not only a variety of color solutions, but also the shape of the “petals” of the tiles.

But none of the manufacturers provide photographs of roofs with soft tiles after 5–6 years of operation. Do you know why? But because during this time enough dust accumulates between the crumb particles for the growth of mosses and lichens.

We will not discuss the appearance of such a coating; some people may like it - a real “retro roof”. Let them like it, but mosses and lichens “don’t like” the roof itself; the root system of plants quickly destroys the base of the soft tiles. No “modified” bitumens and nonwovens cannot withstand the effects of living nature. This means it's time to save money for complete replacement roofing material. Moreover, do not put off the work; in a few years the plywood will begin to deteriorate and the top veneer will peel off. You will also have to replace expensive plywood. You can, of course, use laminated plywood for the sheathing, but look at its price and soberly assess your financial capabilities. There are options for removing moss, but they simultaneously “clean” the surface of crumbs and part of the bitumen.

The base for the tiles is solid; most often, sheets of plywood or OSB are used; sometimes there is a more expensive option made from thin edged boards. Depending on the pitch of the rafters, materials with different thicknesses are used.

	Material thickness, mm
Distance between sheathing rafters, mm	OSB	Sheet plywood	Natural edged board
300	9	9	-
600	12	12	20
900	18	18	23
1200	21	21	30
1500	27	27	37

The table shows the approximate parameters of the sheathing materials depending on the distances between the rafter legs. The most profitable is the use of thinner slabs laid on a step lathing made of unedged boards. So, the strength can be adjusted independently, and the cost of the lathing is minimal. At the same time, the amount of unproductive waste is significantly reduced - space can be found for almost all slab scraps. We will focus on this option.

Step 1. Check the geometry of the rafter system and the reliability of fixation of all its components. Flexible roofing structures are much heavier than metal ones; the rafter system must be as stable as possible. In addition, the surface of soft tiles is rough, which contributes to the accumulation of increased snow cover, which means additional loads. The angles are checked by measuring the diagonals, the linearity of the rafters using a stretched rope. If there are any deflections, make marks in these places and remove them while laying the step sheathing. The distance between the sheathing boards is 20÷30 centimeters.

Step 2. Start nailing the OSB boards.

The base for flexible tiles is a continuous sheathing

Baths, as a rule, have small sizes And simple roofs, such features make it possible to draw up a preliminary plan for cutting slabs. Having a plan reduces the number of times you cut material, which reduces time and quality. You can fasten the slabs with ordinary nails 40÷50 mm long; if you want to suffer and pay extra money for this pain, fix the slabs with self-tapping screws. There is a lot of controversy surrounding the need to leave a gap between the plates, which supposedly will compensate for thermal expansion.

You shouldn't believe this. How can the gap compensate for the expansion of the slab if it is nailed to the boards in many places? This is, firstly. Secondly, those few tenths of a millimeter by which the slab can actually expand are wrinkled at the edges without any problems. Try to ensure that the slabs lie as evenly as possible in one plane. But a difference of a few millimeters should not upset you; flexible tiles will easily hide them without deteriorating their properties.

Step 3. Secure the hooks of the drainage system.

How this is done is described in detail above in paragraph No. 5 of the section “Rules and step-by-step instructions for installing metal tiles.” And the general algorithm for installing a drainage system, including snow retainers, is no different.

Step 4. Install metal droppers on the eaves overhang, secure them in increments of approximately 15 centimeters with roofing nails. It is much easier to hammer nails into metal with a special hammer; it has a sharp tooth, which is used to first punch holes in the sheet and only after that the nail is driven in. The overlap of the droppers is at least three centimeters.

Step 5. Installation of flexible tiles must begin with the chimney; lay a waterproof barrier around its perimeter, it is supplied as a kit. We strongly recommend placing the same barrier around the entire perimeter of the eaves overhangs. It's inexpensive, but will bring a lot of benefits. Width approximately 50 centimeters. The barrier is self-adhesive, remove the protective film and glue it carefully, do not allow bending, the surface should be flat. Overlaps of at least 20 cm; if the barrier does not stick well, use a special liquid bitumen mastic.

Excess pieces of material are cut off with a construction knife. Place a flat board under the cut line, cut it, remove the board and glue a piece prepared to size. It is possible additionally underlay carpet fix with nails with wide heads, nail length within 20 mm, pitch 25÷30 cm.

Important. If the slope of the roof slopes is less than 15°, then it is better to lay the lining carpet along all slopes. The material is laid from bottom to top, overlapping areas are sealed with bitumen mastic. On a skate, a barrier must be installed in all cases.

One more thing. If the profile of the flexible tiles has deep cuts, for example, jazz, tail, trio varieties, then the underlay should be applied over the entire roof.

Step 6. To protect the ends from wind loads, pediment strips are nailed to the gable board.

Use nails and a special hammer. The distance between the nails is approximately twenty centimeters; do not forget to overlap the planks. The edge of the plank should be placed on the edge of the wind board, place the nails in a checkerboard pattern.

Step 7 Marking the roof slope. Along the underlay carpet, you need to beat off parallel horizontal lines with a rope with blue, the distance between them is equal to approximately five times the width of the tiles, the distance between the vertical lines should be the size of one shingle. This mesh will greatly simplify and speed up the process of installing flexible tiles. In addition, it completely eliminates the risk of distortions in the rows of tiles. These lines make it possible not only to hold the shingle vertically and horizontally, but also to maintain it in difficult areas of the roof and correct incorrect dimensions of the slope.

Step 8 Place a valley carpet around the perimeter of the brick chimney; be sure to coat the joints with bitumen mastic.

Step 9 Setting up the starting line.

This is a very important step, so pay the utmost attention to its implementation. Carry out the work from the center of the cornice, trimming off the excess along the edges. This method will make the entire roof symmetrical, and this is very important for the appearance of the bathhouse. The starting strip has its own profile and increased thickness of the adhesive layer. WITH back side remove the protective film, carefully lay the material and secure it in a checkerboard pattern with wide-headed nails. You should retreat 1.5 cm from the drip edge.

Step 10. Before you begin laying the shingles, you need to mix them in random order; do not take them in a row from one pile.

The fact is that the color may change slightly and large stripes with different shades will form on your roof. When mixing the shingles, this problem disappears. Each shingle has reverse side removed protective film, the tiles are glued evenly and additionally secured with nails.

Important. When driving nails into the lower part of the tiles, you should pay attention to ensure that their heads are covered by subsequent rows. The first row of nails should be one centimeter away from the starting strip.

There are varieties of tiles that do not have the protection of an adhesive layer; they are a little easier to work with. Drive nails only at right angles; the heads should not cut into the roof. For one shingle one meter long, four nails are enough; the head should be located at least two centimeters away from the visible part of the shingle. Each nail should hold two shingles at once.

Step 11 Along the entire perimeter of the brick chimney, the tiles must be laid on mastic, all upper joints must be additionally sealed. To increase the tightness, it is recommended to cut through the groove, insert metal decorative strips into it and bend them down. The junction areas are carefully coated with mastic.

Pass-through element - fixation

Step 12 Decoration of pediments. The edges of the shingles are additionally coated with mastic. Excess parts are cut off along a straight line with a sharp carpenter's knife.

Step 13 The ridge is first glued with flexible tiles, and then covered with a special metal ridge element. Do not forget to overlap and coat all joints with bitumen mastic. It is advisable to leave a gap of several centimeters in the ridge for natural ventilation of the rafter system. The metal ridge covering is covered with soft tiles. It can be cut out from an ordinary one or torn along the perforation lines of a cornice. Secure the tile sheets with four nails, two on each side. Lay the ridge towards the prevailing wind direction.

If the ridge has an acute angle or the tile laying work is carried out in the cold season, then the line should be warmed up before bending the ridge tile construction hairdryer, otherwise it will crack. Some manufacturers promise that their tiles can be laid at temperatures of -5°C. Do not believe or experiment; work should be performed only in warm and dry weather. To prevent the edges of the ridge tiles from being visible, cut them slightly at an angle. There will be a narrow part at the top and a little wider at the bottom. The wide, smooth part of the factory cutting will hide all the handmade irregularities.

At this point the roofing work is completed, you can begin to insulate the roof.

Prices for flexible tiles

flexible tiles