Brick stove for home step by step instructions. The simplest kitchen brick stove-stove (detailed sequence diagram)

In the last century, the Russian stove was a multifunctional device. This is room heating winter time, at the same time, it is hot and healthy food, the ability to preserve crops through drying, and household amenities in the form of hot water. It cannot be said that a Russian brick stove is an ideal device. The disadvantage of a stove as a heating system is uneven heating. Modern stoves are designed to heat the room to its full height.

The Russian stove consists of the following parts and elements:

Opechek– used for storing and drying wood.
Cold stove- a small recess in which various utensils are stored.
Six- area on which you can place the pot.
Under- this is the floor of the cooking chamber. It has a slight slope towards the mouth, for convenient movement of heavy utensils. It needs to be polished well.
Cooking chamber- a place for laying firewood and cooking food. The roof of the furnace also has a slope.
Overpipe- camera above the pole. The chimney pipe is located higher.
Dushnik- a special hole for connecting the samovar pipe.
View- closing door.
Bed- horizontal surface, located behind the chimney. You can easily sleep on it in winter.

More common nowadays is the improved Russian stove.
It is distinguished by heating the underfloor part, due to which heating the room becomes more comfortable.

For masonry of the combustion chamber, fire-resistant bricks made of fireclay clay are used. The remaining part of the structure is made from ceramic bricks.

Almost every oven has metal or cast iron parts, for example, doors and dampers. They can also be prepared in specific quantities. You will need the following items:

Doors: combustion and blower doors, as well as a cleaning door, ventilation for chimney.
Grate;
Metal valves;
View;
Furnace damper;
Water box;
Plate;
Steel strips.

To lay out certain parts - arches and vaults - you need easily disassembled templates. They are made from wooden and plywood elements and parts.

Preparation of masonry mortar

Masonry mortar, unlike ordinary mortar, is much more difficult to prepare for furnace work. You can also buy a ready-made mixture in the store. But, if you decide to build a Russian stove with your own hands, then you can prepare the solution yourself.

Solutions for laying stoves are selected depending on:

If solid brick grade M150 is used for masonry, then use clay-sand mortar. It is also used for lining the stove with special ceramic tiles;
Used for laying refractory bricks based on special refractory clay with the addition of sand;
When using fireclay bricks, use refractory clay mortars;
In the interim attic space brick pipes are laid using cement-sand mortar;

Usually the oven is located at interior wall, which has a shallowly buried foundation. To ensure independence of the foundations, it is necessary to leave a gap of about 5 cm between them, and pour sand into it. And the upper edge of the foundation should not reach the floor level by 14 cm.

If the oven is placed at outer wall, on a buried strip foundation, then it will be necessary to expand the pit and backfill it with sand and gravel with careful compaction. Next, the stove is installed with a certain gap from the base of the house, the so-called offset. Sand is poured into it, and its end walls are formed with brickwork.

If you decide to install the stove in the opening, then you just need to connect the ends of the lower crown. This can be done using strips of steel, which are placed on the logs on both sides and tightened with special bolts. Next, the opening is framed with special wooden posts. There must be a circulation gap between them and the future furnace, also called cutting. There should be a gap under the wall in the foundation of the house that will be equal to the width of the stove base on each side.

Laying a Russian stove with your own hands - ordering

The main requirement for laying a furnace is tightness. That is why only whole bricks without any cracks are used for the stove, and the seams are made thin - no more than 5 mm. You should not achieve airtightness by coating all the walls of the oven with clay from the inside - this will reduce thermal conductivity and increase deposits of soot and soot. In addition, the clay flakes off and clogs the channels inside the oven, which will be quite problematic to clean. Today the following methods are used:

brickwork- at this method the wall thickness will be equal to the length of the brick;
half-brick masonry- here the brick will be laid flat along the wall;
quarter masonry- i.e. the brick will be laid on edge.

The ligation of the seams will be carried out thanks to the use of alternately bonded and spoon masonry or non-full-size building material in the corners.

If ceramic bricks are used, they must be pre-soaked, as they will “pull” all the moisture out of the mortar.

During the installation process, be sure to remove excess mixture, especially on the inside of the stove. Lay the outer walls of the oven “in brick”, and the inner walls “in half a brick”. Laying rows is the order of masonry actions in each subsequent row. Due to this process Anyone can build a Russian stove.

First row They are laid from burnt bricks; they absorb little moisture. For the first row, the corners are laid out from cut bricks.

Second row begins with the laying of the furnace walls, the clearings are laid in front and on the left side. On the front with right side Furnaces usually form an ash pit.

IN third row Cleanings on the left are laid without solution. Blower and cleaning doors are installed on the front side. The doors are mounted using burnt steel wire, it is installed in the cuts in the bricks and secured with masonry mortar.

IN fourth row the bottom channels are blocked.

On fifth row install the grate of the small firebox. To install the inside of the firebox, refractory bricks are used; they are also laid without the use of mortar.

IN seventh row The firebox grate is being installed, the walls and the first firebox are being installed. The right wall needs to be strengthened with a steel strip.

IN eighth and ninth row Laying of walls and internal channels continues. The firebox doors of the stove and small firebox are installed.

IN tenth row the arches of the first and second firebox will be connected. Cover the bottom of the furnace. And the smoke circulation channels lead into the furnace.

IN next row A steel corner is mounted on the front edge of the masonry, and a slab is installed on top. The space of the right firebox is covered with a special removable grate.

IN twelfth row laying of the front walls of the furnace and the side walls of the slab begins using refractory bricks. The furnace damper is installed. To the left of the stove they begin to form the lower part of the chimney.

WITH 13 to 16th row The laying of the furnace walls continues and the mouth of the furnace is blocked.

IN seventeenth row a certain narrowing of the furnace roof and expansion of the main chimney begins. And the back wall of the furnace is strengthened with a steel tie.

IN 18th row the roof of the furnace will be covered, and the laying of the front wall of the furnace will begin, which will form the overtube.

IN 19th row The front wall of the furnace is strengthened with the help of a screed; the walls are being installed above the furnace, forming a certain space for backfilling.

IN 21st row the stove is closed, and the overpipe will gradually narrow towards the chimney.

Despite the large number modern methods heating, the stove does not lose its popularity. It can still be found in many country houses to maintain comfort and create a favorable atmosphere.

However, the stove will serve for a long time and efficiently, giving off heat, only if the following questions are answered:

Where is the best place to place the stove?
What materials and tools are needed for the work?
What should be the solution for the oven?
How to properly lay a stove?

Where is the right place to place the stove?

When thinking about how to fold a stove with your own hands, you need to place it correctly. To do this, the following conditions are taken into account:

The walls of the smoke channel must be located from wooden structures at a distance of at least 40 cm
The chimney is allowed to be installed at the same level as the ridge projection if it is located at a distance of 1.5-3 m
If the distance from the ridge to the chimney is 1.5 m or less, the latter should be 0.5 m higher
If the pipe is removed more than 3 m from the ridge protrusion, its height can be made lower, but the angle between the roof slope and the line that connects the upper section of the pipe and the ridge should not exceed 10 degrees

Read also the guide on how to do it yourself

The foundation of the house and the stove have their own specific characteristics, so it is not permissible to combine them with each other.

Materials and tools

Regardless of the type of stove chosen, the work involved in their construction is very similar, and the structures themselves have minor functional differences from each other. On the technical side, they will differ in versatility, degree of impact and size.

Source building materials For the construction of brick kilns the following are used:

wire
lime with sand
brick

When purchasing the latter, you need to ensure that it is in the correct shape and has a sufficient level of firing.

To prepare the solution, you can use refractory, red or even ordinary clay. It will also be required auxiliary equipment, which can be purchased at the markets:

Required doors and dampers
Views and sliders
Grate grates
Cookers with burners, etc.

In addition to materials and components for the stove, you will need to prepare a set of working tools (level, plumb line, milk brush, usually a stove-maker's hammer, level, etc.).

Preparing the mortar for laying the stove

The mortar for a home brick stove is a clay-sand mixture. The sand must be sifted through a sieve so that its cell sizes do not exceed 1.5 mm. At this time, the clay should be soaked in water for 2-3 days. It would be a good idea to pass the finished solution through a sieve (3x3 mm). Each stove maker chooses the proportions for himself.

Having mixed sand and clay, you need to add water and begin to mix the resulting mixture until a thickness similar to rich sour cream is formed. A high-quality mortar should be placed on the brick in a clot and spread in a layer of 4-5 cm (recommended joint thickness).

Arranging a brick oven

When everything necessary has been collected, and the foundation has managed to solidify reliably, we begin to solve the main problem of how to build a stove with our own hands - brickwork. It should be noted that there are a huge number of order options and only one will be considered further - Swedish. It is great for heating and cooking. Before starting work, it is recommended to keep the brick in water for up to 10 minutes.

All information about the furnace must be shown in the drawings. They can reflect both the entire structure and its individual parts or cutouts. For each row, horizontal dimensions are given - orders.

As an option for heating the room, you can use an electric boiler...

The most important is the first row - it is necessary to strictly control the angles, vertical and horizontal. Having made mistakes, even minor to the eye, they will make themselves felt in the future.

The blower in the niche is usually located on the right side. But to make it easier to remove ash from it, in the direction of the camera internal sides combed into a cone. Very often you will have to use not a whole brick, but a certain part of it. It is better to cut the pieces with a special diamond-coated disk, but do not beat them with a hammer.

After installing the blower door, the laying of the second row begins. In this case, dressing is done with a displacement of 30-50% for greater stability of the structure.

The height of the third row should coincide with the top edge of the door. In this case, you must remember to trim the edges of the brick, forming a cone inside the blower for easier removal of ash.

Row four is laid on the left. First, install the cleaning door. A U-shaped channel is made. It is necessary to place a square hole above the ash pan, while blocking the blower door.

The fifth row has practically no differences from the fourth, but the hole above the ash pan needs to be narrowed a little more.

It is necessary to prepare the refractory brick before starting to lay the sixth row (it will be in the place of the hatching). If this is not possible, a regular one will do. In this case, it is necessary to support the grate on the fifth row. Between it and the bricks a compensating small gap of up to 15 mm is required, which is filled with sand or sand.

In the seventh row, it is necessary to block the previously formed U-shaped channel so that it forms three new ones. A firebox door is placed on the sixth row.

The eighth and ninth rows are placed similarly to the seventh. They should reach the top of the fire door.

In order for the flue gases to smoothly pass into the channel from the firebox, it is necessary to scrape off the bricks that block the left channel and the firebox partition.

When laying out the tenth row, you need to ensure that it is strictly vertical. A cooking floor will be laid on top of it, which cannot be mowed, otherwise cooking will be extremely inconvenient. The fire door is completely closed and two strictly square channels are left.

The question of how to build a brick oven with your own hands is half resolved. The cooking floor covers the combustion chamber, resting on the tenth row. The edge of the bricks that will be in contact with it must be combed, forming a gap of up to 2 cm. A small door for the combustion chamber is immediately installed and the eleventh row is laid out. Two square channels remain on the left.

The twelfth and thirteenth rows are laid almost identically. The main difference is that at first both square channels are combined into a single one, and in the next row they are separated again.

The fourteenth row is installed in a similar way to the previous one, but in it one channel is blocked by a damper. When closed, you can use the cooker without letting the stove heat up.

In the fifteenth row the valve is closed, and in the sixteenth row the combustion chamber door is closed. To remove odors and ventilate the cooking section, it is necessary to install a door between it and the channel already closed by the valve.

In the seventeenth row, it is necessary to lay steel strips above the cooking chamber, which will allow the chamber to be blocked. In normal heating stove a dome-shaped ceiling would have to be built.

The next two rows cover the cooking area, but both square channels remain untouched.

Two bricks are placed on the surface of the cooker on edge, 40 cm away from the back wall. Doors for cleaning and the samovar pipe are immediately installed. The next row is laid by analogy.

In the twenty-second row it is necessary to close the doors. Three longitudinal channels are made above the cooking area (11, 5 and 11 cm, respectively), on the left - the same two square ones. In the twenty-third row, the longitudinal channels are covered with bricks laid transversely. The next row is done in the same way.

By analogy with the twenty-second, rows 25-26 are placed.

In the twenty-seventh row you need to lay three bricks at the same distance and distance from the walls. This leaves only one square channel. By analogy, the next two rows are laid.

In the thirtieth row, it is necessary to completely block the heat chamber, leaving one smoke channel, which is closed with a valve. The next two rows are laid with a slight offset relative to each other. Three such rows guarantee fire safety.

All that remains is to install a simple chimney for the stove.

Detailed video instructions for laying a stove with your own hands

In custody

The given order of the Shvedki stove is one of the most common today. It not only makes it possible to heat the room, but also to cook food. Increasingly, such a design can be found in country houses.

But the question of how to build a stove with your own hands turned out to be difficult and there is no confidence in your efforts - before starting work, you should contact a stove maker or a person who has already built similar structures. He will certainly give you a lot of valuable advice.

Since ancient times, heating and cooking stoves have been present in houses. They acted as the main component of any rural home. Nowadays, people living in private houses in the city also do not refuse to install this structure. It has not lost its functionality, so it is actively used by many.

Even if the house has a heating system running on gas or electricity, many people do not want to turn it on at full power on autumn days when the house becomes cool. In this case, a stove will help ensure a comfortable microclimate in your home. It is enough to throw a few logs into the firebox and your home will quickly become warm.

If you decide to acquire this structure in your home, then the task of its construction must be approached with all seriousness, since the stove is built with the expectation that it will last for decades. It doesn’t matter whether you build a heating stove with your own hands or a stove with a stove. Therefore, if during construction process Mistakes will be made, and it will be extremely difficult to correct them later.

Speaking about stoves, we note that they are divided into structures for single and two-story houses. The main difference between them is the height. The structure being built may have a slab or be used only for heating. In the second case, there is no slab as a component element. The height of a do-it-yourself oven depends on the number of rows in the design. Next, we will look in detail at how to build a stove with your own hands in a private house.

Materials for masonry

Calculation of materials is extremely important point when laying a stove with your own hands. In addition, the quality of the structure affects its service life. The stovetop oven we are looking at in this article typically measures 90 x 90 cm at the base. As for its height, the structure does not reach its highest point to ceiling first floor at 2.1 m.

Before you start building a stove with your own hands, need to purchase materials V sufficient quantity that will be used during its construction. During the work you will need:

red brick M150 in the amount of 1085 pcs.;
sand-lime brick for the construction of a firebox, 150 pcs. Instead, you can use fireclay;
sand - 80-100 buckets;
clay – 200 kg;
corner 50x50 mm and 40x40 mm;
steel wire 2 mm - 25 m;
metal sheet 4 mm 1.5 × 1.5 m;
roofing felt -3 m;
asbestos cord 5 mm - 10 m;
material for wall insulation.

The construction of the foundation also requires the preparation of appropriate materials:

sand;
cement;
fittings;
crushed stone;
boards for formwork.

In addition, to build a full-fledged stove with a stove with your own hands, which can be used for heating your home and cooking, you will need to purchase cast iron parts:

grate - 1 pc.;
hob with two burners - 1 piece;
valves - 3 pcs.;
two doors for the combustion chamber and the blower, 1 pc. each;
cleaning doors - 5 pcs.

After the materials have been prepared and the builder has them at his disposal necessary tools, you can move on to the active phase of work.

Foundation

Accepting the fact that the structure being built has a large mass, when constructing a foundation with your own hands deepen it no less than 80 cm. However, when carrying out foundation work, one should take into account climatic features area of residence, as well as the depth of freezing. You can find out about this from local builders. Taking into account all these points, a stove built with your own hands according to the chosen scheme will last a long time.

The pit for the foundation being constructed must have square shape. As for its dimensions, they should be 1.2 × 1.2 m. You can easily dig it with your own hands, using a hand tool - a shovel.

After completion of the excavation work, the bottom of the pit is compacted. Then at the bottom a sand cushion is arranged, for which it is important to withstand optimal thickness layer equal to 10-15 cm. Next, crushed stone is poured in a layer of 15 cm, which after laying it needs to be compacted, and then install the formwork. This must be done with the expectation that it will pass through the entire thickness of the foundation.

Pouring the foundation for the future furnace is carried out in several stages. The first layers may consist of mortar, which is made from cement and pebbles. Upper layer need to be filled with concrete made from sand and cement. Taking into account the weight of the structure, the foundation must harden long time, at least three weeks. This is important, because otherwise a stove built with your own hands, even in accordance with the selected scheme, will not last long. A crack in the foundation will require repairs.

When the base of the oven with the stove has gained sufficient strength, the formwork is removed, and the upper part of the foundation is covered with waterproofing material– three layers of roofing felt. The first brick laying with your own hands will be done further on it.

Compared to a fireplace, the design of a stove with your own hands is more complex. Therefore, the construction scheme must be strictly observed.

Due to the fact that the area of the foundation is larger than the base, markings should be made on the waterproofing. After this, you can proceed to laying the first row.

If used vertical diagram When laying rows, it must be remembered that the chimney channels should not be too narrow. Their minimum size is 13 × 13 centimeters.

The sequential layout scheme for a heating and cooking furnace assumes the following: already from the first rows of masonry, its layout should include a blower chamber. When laying the second row begins, a blower door is installed, which is wrapped with asbestos cord before being installed in the opening intended for it.

When installing the door, a wire is wound around it, which is clamped between two bricks. When it is completely framed with masonry, the wire is bent to the sides.

When they reach the fourth row of the furnace, holes are marked on it for the circulation of heated air. On the fifth stage, the firebox grate is laid. When constructing the firebox wall and its threshold, it is permissible to use sand-lime brick.

The combustion door is installed on the sixth row. It, just like the blower, is wrapped with asbestos cord.

From 6 to 10 rows you need Special attention pay attention to the shape of the holes that will ensure air movement inside the structure. The tenth row, if possible, must be fastened with a frame welded from a corner. On the 11th row, a hob is placed on a pre-laid asbestos pad.

The corner is laid on the seventeenth row. The 18th row of masonry will lie on it, which will complete the framing of the chamber above the slab.

On the 19th-20th rows of masonry, drying chamber. On the 19th row, the cleaning door is installed.

Once again the metal corner is laid on the 24th row of masonry. On him a continuous row of bricks will be laid, which will become the ceiling of the dryer.

The cleaning door is installed on the 25th row.

On the 30th row, two valves are installed.

All subsequent rows up to the 38th are performed according to the scheme, and the next ones form part of the furnace that goes to the second floor. Note that this part of the furnace has a different numbering in order. Its laying is carried out according to the following scheme:

The door installation is performed on the 2-3rd row. It is used for cleaning;
installation of the chimney damper is carried out on the 27th row;
the part of the stove installed on the second floor should have the shape of a wide chimney. It must be equipped with a valve and a chamber. It is gradually replaced by a narrow pipe, which begins at the level of the 32nd row.

An umbrella is placed on the top of the pipe, which prevents dust and moisture from getting inside it.

Furnace diagrams

Do-it-yourself stoves that are built in private homes can currently be divided into two groups:

modern devices;
outdated designs.

Building outdated structures with your own hands is not a problem. However, they have an imperfect design, so most often houses have stoves and stoves, which differ in their functionality.

If you decide to build a stove with a stove in your home or just a heating structure with your own hands, then you need to approach the task of choosing them with all seriousness. Getting to know the benefits of ovens different designs will allow you to do right choice. If a private house already has a stove with an old-style stove, then in this case there is no need to build the structure from scratch. It is enough to remodel it and you will have equipment for heating and cooking at your disposal.

To avoid mistakes during the remodeling process, you should first familiarize yourself with the video and various instructions on how professionals do this work. It is also necessary to use drawings during work. By applying the acquired knowledge, you can get good result upon completion of the work, you will have a stove with a stove, built with your own hands.

One of the common types of stoves is two-tier. If we talk about its structure, then we note that it consists of two designs- one stands on top of the other. Each part of this structure has dimensions of 165x51x238 cm. When the furnace is operating, the heat transfer in the lower part is 3200 kcal/h, and in the upper part - 2600 kcal/h.

When building such a structure with your own hands, the two structures are separated from each other by masonry made of bricks with voids. This allows you to reduce the weight of the stove and save during its construction a certain amount of material. The lining, which is used to fill the space between the upper and lower oven, also acts as a base for the first structure.

Both the upper and the lower ovens have exactly the same design. In the case under consideration, a ductless smoke circulation system is implemented. Once in the firebox, the gases move into the upper cap, which is equipped with a special nozzle. After the gases cool, they sink to the bottom to the level of the firebox. Then they go into the chimney through the underpass.

For a lower stove, the chimney runs through the top, so the heating surface is smaller. The upper structure includes a separate chimney. The process of laying it does not contain any difficult moments. The gas movement pattern is also simple. There is a door in the back wall through which the lower structure must be cleaned. Cleaning the upper structure must be done through the door located in the side wall. The fuel for a two-tier stove can be used either coal, or anthracite. Each of the pipes created in this furnace is additionally equipped with a valve.

A reinforced concrete slab is often used to cover the top of voids. This type of overlap provides stability, and in addition makes the furnace structure as a whole more stable. When performing masonry of such volume, errors must be excluded. Indeed, if they occur, repairs will be extremely difficult.

Great care should be taken in the design of the chimney located in the lower structure of the furnace. If there are leaks in the masonry, then in this case You may experience heat leakage from the wall, which separates the pipes on the second floor. Note that this will also happen when the smoke valves are closed.

Ovens with a stove or any other type can be combined into any array, regardless of whether they have a square or rectangular shape. The type of fuel also does not have special significance. For country house a stove built with your own hands can become ideal option heating

A stove of this design has dimensions of 102x102x238 cm. If we talk about its heat transfer during operation, it is 4200 kcal per hour.

One of its important parts, the firebox, has a greater height in the design of this stove. The symmetrical arrangement is also characteristic of its side openings, which serve to remove gas through the side chambers of the furnace walls located on the sides of the structure. Once there, the gas descends through the chambers, the connection of which is ensured by a special channel located under the firebox.

Gases enter the risers from each side chamber through the lower flaps. Then they rise into the side chambers located at the top. All together they form the top cap, which contains three U-shaped cavities.

The cavities are located parallel to each other. Once up, the gas will be retained in the middle and rear cavities of the cap, and after cooling, it will move to the front plane along the bottom. The front plane is connected to the top-type chimney. From there the gas will escape into the atmosphere.

The design of this furnace has three hoods: an upper one and 2 large chambers. If we talk about the type of fuel that can be used in the construction of this structure, we note that it can be anything. To lay out the walls of the firebox during the construction of the furnace, refractory bricks should be used.

Stove in the house - good help in creating a comfortable microclimate with minimal costs. She can act as main system home heating or used as an additional heat source. The construction of this structure does not have to be entrusted to a specialist. You can build a stove in your home yourself if you study all the nuances of building a stove. High-quality work will allow you to get a stove that will give off heat well and will last for decades.

Brick kilns, even the smallest ones, have many advantages in front of metal heating devices.

Iron stoves heat up very quickly, but also cool quickly without warming the air. Mini brick oven gives off heat for a long time And holds comfortable temperature few hours.

This heating structure can be made independently, without the help of a professional stove maker.

Schemes of brick mini-ovens

Small ovens occupy a small area, dimensions of their bases hesitate from 50 to 70 centimeters in width and up to 65–100 cm in length. Height heating plant amounts to from 1.5 to 2.3 meters. A cooking floor, an oven, and a water heating tank are built into the oven. Stove makers have also developed devices intended only for heating a home.

Small heating structure

This is the simplest heating structure. We will analyze the model in the following sizes:

width grounds - 51 cm;
length base (depth) - 89 cm;
height — 238 cm.

The mini-stove is installed in the middle of the kitchen or against the wall. Optimal heating area - 20-35 meters. Interior partitions are erected around the stove, which allows heating both the kitchen and the adjacent room.

Inside the device are located:

combustion chamber;
blower;
smoke channels leading into the chimney.

Furnace door mini ovens ( cast iron or glass) is selected depending on the aesthetic preferences of the home owners. A door made of heat-resistant glass, through which you can see how the wood is burning, gives the structure a resemblance to a fireplace. In the middle and upper part stoves are installed two smoke valves. There is one door for cleaning the channels. To build this model of the device you will need:

260 pieces bricks ceramic;
130 pieces of fireclay bricks;
grate (40x23 cm);
combustion chamber (30x20 cm) And blower (20x14 cm) doors;
2 doors for cleaning holes ( 20x40 cm);
metal pre-furnace sheet (50x70 cm);
two sheets roofing felt 60x100 mm in size;
sand and clay(or ready-made clay-sand mixture for masonry), clay-fireclay mixture.

Reference. Masonry mortar increases the volume of the device by the thickness of the joints.

Foundation and top part The mini-oven is lined with ceramic bricks on a clay-sand mortar. Firebox laid from fireclay bricks on a clay-fireclay mixture.

On long side base fits three and a half bricks, on short - 2 standard bricks 25 cm long. In height the masonry consists of 35 rows.

Small heating and cooking stove

This is a mini-oven model for heating and cooking - a convenient and very compact structure. Optimal heated room area at sub-zero temperatures — 20-25 square meters.

The device has the following dimensions:

length base (depth) - 64 cm;
width grounds - 51 cm;
height — 215 cm.

The structure is being erected in the kitchen. The device includes:

blower;
combustion chamber;
smoke channels leading to the chimney;
cooking floor;
niche for oven.

Cooking floor made of cast iron has a hole closed with a disk and a circle. Solid flooring is also available for sale. IN niche for oven chamber have a metal oven or hot water tank with a tap. If the niche is left free, it is used for drying things. For the construction of a stove will be needed:

222 pieces ceramic bricks;
grate (40x25 cm);
door for the firebox ( 20x20 cm);
door for the blower ( 14x14 cm);
cooking flooring (35x38 cm);
metal oven or hot water tank;
iron pre-furnace sheet (50x70 cm);
two doors for cleaning holes ( 20x14 cm);
two valves;
piece flat slate ;
steel corner;
clay, sand or ready clay-sand mixture for masonry.

Before starting laying, carry out preparatory work. These include next steps:

choice project;
selection and purchase materials;
purchase of metal stove parts;
Preparation tool, containers for solution;
Preparation places for building a stove;
construction mini ovens.

Project selection

On the Internet and in textbooks furnace business There are serial diagrams of a dozen mini-ovens.

The choice is great, but if the home craftsman has no experience at all, it is worth consulting with local professionals or with people who have successfully built similar stoves. When choosing a device that you plan to build yourself, several factors are taken into account:

square heated room;
quantity heated rooms;
temperature air in winter;
frequency of use heating structure;
appointment mini ovens;
experience furnace construction and repair;
material expenses.

Photo 1. Before starting construction it is very useful to model appearance, dimensions and order of the future stove.

If planned Cook, the preferred option would be one with a hob and an oven. Need in hot water in winter and in the off-season, the water heating tank will be closed in a niche. In it, by removing the removable tank, you can dry shoes and other things. If the house always has electricity or a gas stove, choose a stove option without a hob and a niche for the oven.

For regions where winter temperatures drop below 20 degrees and stays at this level for weeks, it will do large oven with heat shields. Mini stove Not recommended drown continuously more than two hours in a row.

For many people it matters design designs. It can be tiled or bricked with relief surface.

Materials

For the chosen mini-oven project you will need high-quality bricks. Should choose smooth brick 1st grade, uniform coloring, without chips or cracks.

For laying bricks home handyman without experience it is better to choose ready mixture at a hardware store. It is diluted according to the manufacturer's instructions.

If the master creates a solution from individual ingredients, you should purchase sand and clay. The ratio of materials is determined experimentally. The solution is scooped with a spatula and its working surface is tilted by 45-50 degrees. Masonry mass normal composition does not fall in clumps from the spatula and does not flow from it.

Tools

To work, you will need all the stove maker’s tools and a table on which you can stand when laying the top rows. Add to list tools include:

spatulas: wide and narrow:
Master OK;
jointing to form beautiful seams;
trowel;
hammer a stove-maker with a flat back and a pick;
mallet;
level long construction;
plumb line building;
wooden beam for the frame;
threads, fishing line, chalk for marking the base;
Bulgarian with a set of discs for cutting and grinding;
rule aluminum.

Important! The temperature in the room when laying the stove and drying it should be positive (from plus 5 degrees).

To prepare the solution you need big tank. To mix the paste you need wooden stirrer(oar) and construction mixer.

Preparing the area for the oven

Before laying, mini-ovens are prepared in advance foundation. This is necessary because even the smallest device with brick pipe weighs from 500 kg and more.

Such pressure on the floor boards will lead to deformation of the floor and stove walls. This can cause a fire on the roof and in the house.

There are several options for constructing foundations. Construction concrete base for mini oven includes next steps:

pit excavation depth 50-70 cm;
compaction of soil in the pit;
laying a layer of crushed stone in the pit ( 20-25 cm);
laying sand in a pit ( layer 15-20 cm);
compaction of sand and crushed stone;
waterproofing the pit with roofing felt: joints are sealed with tar and bitumen mastic;
installation of steel reinforcement with mesh diameter no more than 8-10 cm;
pouring concrete and compacting it with a vibrating drill;
laying two layers of roofing material on dried concrete for additional waterproofing.

Important! The stove is erected on a foundation that protrudes beyond its perimeter by 10-20 cm. From the firebox side it is recommended leave 50-70 cm foundation in order to mount a pre-furnace platform on it.

Order of masonry

Ceramic bricks are laid using clay-sand mortar on a prepared foundation:

1st and 2nd rows. Solid masonry.

Photo 2. Layout diagram of the first rows for a small heating and cooking stove. Next comes the chimney pipe.

3rd row. Lay out the chamber for the blower. Install (on wire or metal strips) the blower door.
4 row. The laying of the blower and the strengthening of its door continues. A ledge for the grate is laid out.
5 row. A grate is placed loosely on the ledges, without mortar. They leave it around gaps are 5-7 mm.
6th row. A combustion door is installed in the furnace portal. It is secured by laying steel wire in the seams or using steel strips. The planks are also laid in the seams using mortar.
Rows 7-11. Laying the firebox, final fastening of the door by laying wire (steel plates) in the seams on the mortar.

Photo 3. Installation and fastening of doors for firebox and cleaning. Using a plumb line, the accuracy of the tub is monitored.

11a. Upon completion 11 rows lay a metal strip (or corner) on which the cooking floor will rest. After this, the cooking floor is laid.
Rows 12-15. Walls are erected around the cooking floor (cooking chamber), and a chimney leading from the firebox is laid out.
15a. In order for there to be a roof above the cooking chamber non-flammable material, a sheet of flat slate is placed on it.
16th row. The roof of the cooking chamber is covered with solid masonry, and the chimney continues to be laid out.
17th row. Installation of a chimney cleaning door (on wire or steel strips).
18th row. Securing the door.
Rows 19-22. Masonry according to the chosen pattern.
23 row. Laying out a niche for the oven.
24 row. Laying the walls of the oven, installing the oven. Strips are placed on the bottom of the chamber around the perimeter asbestos cardboard. The oven is wrapped with asbestos rope (for greater contact with the brickwork and heat accumulation) and finally installed in a niche.
Rows 24-27. Brickwork is built around the oven.
28 row. Installing a second door to clean the smoke duct.
29 row. Installing a damper above the smoke duct.
Row 30 Masonry according to the chosen pattern.
31 row. Installing a second damper above the smoke duct.
32 row. Completion of masonry.

Besides, 32 row is the basis for the construction chimney. It can be brick or metal.

Photo 4. An example of a finished brick mini-stove with decorative finishing. The design is not intended for cooking, but will heat the house well.

Problems when building a mini-oven with your own hands

Amateur stove makers, due to inexperience, commit errors which then lead to problems. Let's look at the most common cases:

Laying stoves with deviation from the project. As a result, in smoke ducts there is no normal draft, the walls heat up unevenly. The solution to the problem will be disassembly of the furnace and laying according to proven schemes.
Laying stoves by eye, without using a level, frame, plumb lines, rules. The device warps, the center of gravity shifts, and during operation the device collapses faster.

This article contains clear, very detailed photo instructions for laying a brick oven with your own hands, tips on how not to make a mistake when choosing necessary materials and how to properly place a stove in a private home for optimal heating of a larger area.

Options for installing a stove in the house

The placement of the stove depends entirely on what exactly the owners expect from it. If it is installed in a small house and will be used as a fireplace for friendly gatherings, you can use the first scheme. This stove is a good option for cooking barbecue on the grill or kebabs.

Brick kiln placement options

The second scheme is for a house of solid square footage. In this case, the front side of the fireplace opens into the living room, stove walls both bedrooms are heated, and the heat in the remaining rooms is maintained using heat exchange.

The third scheme with a stove for heating and cooking is a budget housing option for a bachelor or a small family. Pros: a warm bed and the ability to place a dryer in the hallway.

Important: you should take care in advance external insulation at home, because it greatly increases the efficiency of stove heating.

Selection of bricks, sand, mortar

In order for the stove to serve for a long time, you need to select all the materials correctly. There are three types of bricks:

Ceramic - can be used to build a stove.
Silicate ones are generally not suitable in this case, even double M150.
Fireproof - ideal, but they are often used only for fireboxes and fireplaces, varieties: fireclay, refractory bricks, etc.

Advice: when choosing a brick for a stove, you need to completely abandon the hollow types.

The solution is made from clay. Red clay is suitable if the stove is made of red brick; when using fireclay, special fireclay clay is required. Some stove makers still make their own solution in the old fashioned way from river sand with a grain size of 1-1.5 mm, clay (in a ratio of 2.5:1) and water. It is advisable to use angular quarry sand without foreign inclusions and the so-called fatty clay. However, it is easier and more reliable to buy a ready-made baking mixture in the store, preparing it according to the instructions.

From the accessories you need to purchase grates, blower and combustion doors, soot cleaners, valves or dampers.

Preparation, list of tools

Before starting work, you need to determine and mark the place that the new stove will occupy.

The chimney pipe should be no closer than 15 cm from the roof rafters.

If you are doing masonry for the first time, professional stove makers advise you to practice in advance by making a model of the future stove from prepared bricks. Naturally, without a solution. This minimizes possible risks during real masonry, allowing you to learn from your mistakes, which can still be corrected in the layout.

The stove foundation requires preliminary waterproofing; its area must exceed the area of the stove.

When laying a new row, you need to control the absolute verticality of the walls.

To build a brick kiln, the following tools are needed:

plumb line;
trowel;
roulette;
putty knife;
Bulgarian;
knitting wire;
building level;
metal strips, corners;
containers for cement and clay mortar.

Step-by-step instructions with photos for laying a stove

Different stove makers have their own masonry technologies and own secrets, come with years of experience. Here is information about enough in a simple way creating a fireplace stove to heat a two-story house, the process will not seem extremely difficult even to novice stove makers.

Foundation laying

Basic row brickwork will serve as the foundation. It is done with any brick; some stove makers even fill this level with crushed stone.

When laying the base row, cement mortar is used.

The foundation is completely filled with mortar, the layer is leveled.

Construction of the furnace body

The first row of stoves is marked. The horizontal line from which they start when marking is the wall of the room.

A grate is placed where the fireplace is planned to be placed. From this row, the bricks are already laid on the kiln mortar.

An important stage of work is the scrupulous alignment of each new row by level.

Laying the second row. The stove wall, located closest to the wall of the room, is reinforced with additional bricks to increase fire safety.

The place where it will be located in the 2nd row remains empty, the rest of the oven is filled in completely. A door is installed through which the owners will clean out the ash.

The door is installed on the solution and leveled. For a more reliable fixation, it is secured with wire, which must be laid between the bricks.

The grate is laid not on a simple brick, but on a refractory brick. So that it lies at the same level as the bricks, in fireclay bricks holes are cut.

The size of the brick can be easily adjusted - the excess is measured and carefully cut off.

The large door is mounted next to the installed grille.

The large oven door is similarly secured using wire fasteners.

The first row of fireboxes is placed exactly above the fireplace, it is strengthened metal corners and a strip or thick tin. So that the masonry can lie on them, it is cut using a grinder, then the slots are adjusted manually to the desired size.

The next brick row is laid.

A fireplace grate is laid on the fire-resistant brick along with the brick row.

The door is fixed, the brick is strictly adjusted to it.

The firebox of the new stove and fireplace is ready.

Fire-resistant fireclay bricks are placed above the stove firebox.

The stove body is built.

Creating a chimney

The space left for the chimney is divided into wells. The design requires reinforcement with metal plates.

Brick chimney wells are laid.

Soot cleaners are mounted above the firebox roof.

The wells are divided again, the first rows of walls should be reinforced with strips of metal.

After strengthening, the ceiling of the furnace body is erected. The space associated with the chimney remains empty.

The body cornice is laid out, then the chimneys are laid.

The final stage of work on the first floor. The stove is located at the bottom left, the smoke inside the chimneys moves in a spiral and comes out at the top left. The final separation of the wells is covered with a tin sheet. In order to compensate for the pressure inside the fireplace stove, 2 brick rows are laid on the tin.

There are two chimneys stretching to the second floor of the house - from the fireplace and the stove itself, they are separated from each other. Each chimney requires the installation of a separate damper.

Floor level of the second floor. Waterproofing is installed here, the chimney is again reinforced with metal corners. To save money and avoid building a heating stove on the second floor, the chimney of the stove under construction is again divided. The smoke will snake through it, managing to warm up the room. In order for the chimney to warm up much faster, it is laid in the area of the second floor with a thickness of 1/4 or 1/2 brick.

A hole for the stove chimney is carefully cut out in the roof.

Before placing the chimney on the roof, it is reinforced with metal corners.

If the chimney is located in close proximity to the roof ridge, it must be laid out at least 0.5 meters above the ridge. If further, then the height of the chimney is allowed equal to the height of the ridge, but not lower. In this case, the wind increases the stove draft, lifting the smoke upward.

Even a small stove in the house means coziness and comfort. Stoves bigger size require increased skill and additional materials, however, the principle of their construction is similar to the method described above.