Correct floors in a Russian bathhouse. A pouring bath floor: design features A pouring floor in a bathhouse on a strip foundation
Features of the design of pouring floors depending on the location of the bathhouse, connection to the ground, video about organizing water drainage with a water seal system, arrangement of the underground, installation of the stove.
At first glance, it seems that even a schoolchild can cope with installing a pouring floor in a bathhouse. Perhaps, if he turns out to be an intelligent student studying in high school and physically strong enough, then he will be able to master that volume construction work necessary during the construction of a building, work with soil and laying leaking flooring.
Construction of a pouring floor
Floors with a leaking floor structure are considered traditional in the design of a Russian bath. The floorboards are made from hardwood. When laid on joists, gaps are left between them, through which water flows freely into the underground. A pit is specially dug and equipped in the underground for Wastewater, and with the help of additional ditches it is diverted from under the foundation of the bathhouse into a pit, from which they enter the sewer system.
When the soil is composed of sandy and sandy loam soils, the construction of a pit is impractical, since streams of water, breaking against crushed stone and reaching the bottom of the pit, are absorbed by the sand and are independently discharged into natural drainage.
If the soil is composed of clay and loamy soils, the installation of a drainage system is necessary. For this purpose, a water intake structure is installed inside the pit. A collection facility is installed underground to receive waste water. This could be a hole with concrete walls and a base, or lined with bricks and coated with a layer of clay. Before pouring crushed stone, a drain pipe is installed into it, through which it will be carried into a pit located outside the walls of the bathhouse. And from there the waste water is discharged into the sewer network or wastewater disposal system.
Drainage system
The installation of a drainage system requires a lot of physical effort. At the very beginning of the work, the entire soil cover under the entire base of the steam and washing compartments is removed. In this place, a hole is dug, at least 400 mm deep, and compacted tightly. A 10-centimeter layer of sand is poured into it, which is also compacted, and the hole is filled with crushed stone. Then, in a designated and convenient place for the owner, a pit is built.
Video about organizing water drainage in a bathhouse with a water seal system:
Briefly about the basics
Concrete screed. It is poured in such a way as to have a slight slope towards the water intake structure. During construction large sauna joists should be laid. They are installed on support posts, which can be made of brick. The columns are reinforced with concrete mortar using reinforcing mesh and covered with high-quality insulation. The supports can also be treated on all sides with a special bitumen-based mastic.
Installation of lag. Beams measuring 150x150 mm are used as logs. The step between their laying is 0.5 m. Before laying the beams, they must be treated twice with a special antiseptic. When laying joists on support posts, it is necessary to lay double layer waterproofing.
Laying floorboards . The floorboards are laid in such a way that there is a gap between them - a gap of at least 5 mm wide. This distance will ensure the free flow of water used in the bath. Wood can take on water in a damp room and swell. The gaps between the floorboards at a distance of 5-7 mm will not close and will not cause sewage congestion.
In order to build a leaking structure in a bathhouse, two basic rules must be observed:
- The entire structure of the floor and the associated underground must be provided with a ventilation system.
Timely removal of damp air from under the bathhouse underground will prevent the boardwalk from undergoing premature rotting processes, which will significantly extend its service life.
- Installation of a pouring floor in a bathhouse begins only after the installation of drainage or drainage system underground and a furnace erected.
It is best to install the stove in such a way that its vent is located below. With this arrangement of the furnace, the underground will always be provided with an influx of fresh air masses, therefore, damp air will not linger there.
The laying of pouring floors has its own positive sides. Floorboards made of wood have a certain amount of attractiveness, since they are also environmentally friendly.
The negative side is the fact that they are quite fast, compared to concrete base, become unusable and require complete or partial replacement. This happens especially often in poorly ventilated underground areas, or in the complete absence of a ventilation system.
A shower floor in a bathhouse is a classic. The design of a poured floor in a bathhouse is simple, and the technology is even simpler: the plank flooring is laid along the joists without sealing the joints, this is as easy as pie. During bath water procedures, as well as during washing and cleaning, all the water flows down through the cracks. Further - depending on the situation. In the most severe case, the water remains for some time, seeps, deteriorates, evaporates, etc. in a windproof, cold underground. The result for the bathhouse is the possible appearance of so-called heavy steam. This is a very unpleasant feeling of stuffiness, unpleasant odors, leading to a reluctance to stay in a given room for a long time.
Do-it-yourself shower floor in a bathhouse
Wooden batten has a lot of advantages, but as a living, capillary material, it will always absorb water and rot. Unless, of course, this tree bog oak or " iron wood" Complete antiseptics and painting to protect bath floors from water are not an option. Therefore, they do it “simpler” - organize heating and ventilation of the underground with hot air from the steam room. In a bathhouse built on stilts, this problem is easily solved. To do this, you need to fulfill several conditions:
- Both rooms - the washing room and the steam room - have common flooring pouring floor and a common underground with a tray below.
- The washing and steam compartments are separated from other rooms by a common fence, and this partition is as airtight as possible.
- The windows and doors are closed, and the air draft for the combustion chamber comes only from washing department. Fresh air from the street it enters the bathhouses only and only through ventilation ducts conducted through a pile grillage and passing under the convection heaters of the stove.
- The stove is heated in the steam room on the washing side, and the stove is located in the partition between the steam room and the washing room.
When the stove begins to heat up during combustion, a draft occurs and fresh outside air is taken in, which passes through the ventilation duct under the convector and heats up. According to the laws of physics, the heated air goes up to the ceiling of the steam room, and when cooled, it goes down, and, since there is draft in a sealed room, more warm air goes through the pouring floor below, into the underground. But, since the underground is insulated, the air does not go out into the street, but again into the washing compartment and from there in a circle - into the furnace of the stove. The more the air heats up, the faster this cycle occurs, while not only the steam room and washing room are blown through and warmed up, but also the underground.
Ventilation ducts go from the outside through holes made in the grillage (vents that are optimally designed at the foundation stage), then pass between the floor joists and go to heating devices oven (convector).
The entire system is designed specifically with future underground ventilation in mind. The foundation can be strip, pile-screw, bored piles or piles using TISE technology. A grillage made of timber, with a cross-section according to calculation, is mounted on the piles, securing it to the piles using anchor bolts. Logs are laid along the grillage and secured with screws or nails. Be sure to do antiseptic and fire retardant treatment of all wooden structures - grillage, strapping for joists and joists. A tray with sealing will be installed under the grillage simultaneously with the installation of ventilation. The material for making the pallet can be plastic, stainless steel, or polycarbonate, with a supporting frame made of timber or boards.
The pallet consists of two parts - a contour frame and a base, made with a slope to allow water to flow to a certain point, the lowest, optimally in one of the corners of the grillage. The shape of the pallet is simple, rectangular or square; the board (bar) for the supporting frame is taken with a thickness of 50 mm. The pallet will be installed directly on the ground or drainage bedding, depending on the ground conditions, but treatment of wooden structures with a fire-retardant compound is mandatory in any case. A practical option for assembling the bottom of the pallet is structural plastic, durable, bio-resistant and affordable. Possible to use monolithic polycarbonate thickness from 3-4 mm. Fastening is carried out using special self-tapping screws with thermal washers. The pallet is attached to the grillage using a bolted connection or self-tapping screws. All joints are sealed. Access to the drain must be free for its operation and periodic cleaning.
A pallet is not needed if the underground can be insulated in another way, for example, if the bathhouse is built on strip foundation, you can close ventilation holes(vents in the tape) while the furnace is firing.
Ventilation ducts of the pouring floor in the bathhouse
The most difficult part is the ventilation duct. It is more practical to connect it to the heaters in the gaps between the joists running closer to the stove. There must be a vent in the grillage. If the grillage is made of timber or a thick plank, then you can drill holes in it. Frame ventilation duct the logs themselves will serve. The supply fan is installed outside, the openings are closed with grilles. The bottom and cover of the ventilation duct can be assembled from boards, plywood, OSB sheets, with sealing. Under the stove there will be a ventilation duct cover, partially secured with a permanent fastener. For cleaning and maintenance of the ventilation duct, the cover can be made of two parts, the second part is removable. There should be gaps in the lid, which should be protected from debris and dust with a fine grille or mesh. The top of the lid is closed with a glass-magnesium sheet with slots at the level of the ventilation duct openings. When sealing the joints, the channel will be thermally insulated. An additional supply anemostat can be mounted at the outlet of the ventilation duct to regulate the air draft.
Flooring in a bathhouse
The construction of flooring is no different in technology from a conventional poured floor. If you use wide boards with a thickness of 40 mm or more, their weight will allow you to avoid making fastenings. In this case, maintenance of the pan, cleaning and checking the ventilation duct is even more simplified. It is possible to additionally dry the boards by removing them and placing them on edge during periods when the bathhouse is not heated. The tray is easy to wash and clean.
pros this decision– quick heating of the bath, always fresh air and warm dry floor. In such a steam room, after heating the bath, not only the shelves, but also the floors will be hot. You can forget about the problem of heavy steam and mustiness; floor boards last a very long time. The only negative is a consequence of good ventilation - part of the heated air is removed, so you have to heat a little more.
Installation of a pouring floor. Advice from experienced bath attendants.Thank you. Absolutely, right. This is what I was counting on, that my experience would combine with the experience of others and together create a strong visual aid.
So let's write down other advantages.Now it’s logical to tell you what was done ten years ago, how it worked and what problems came out. Then tell what was done to eliminate the latter.
Organization of the floor (as it was).
1. The floorboards lie flat against each other without gaps
2. At the end of the slope there is a gap along the entire length of the floorboard for water drainage. Closable slot. in cold weather.1. The floor was made in frame bath with water discharged outside the bathhouse. The bathhouse stands on pillars and has underground space under all rooms.
2. First, a V-shaped subfloor was made with a slope towards external wall baths made of boards 20. The boards were not impregnated with anything.
3. The subfloor was covered with roofing felt with the organization of water discharge into a plastic pipe and then into dug drainage grooves along the edge of the site. There are no drainage pits or septic tanks. At the same time, the roofing material was raised along the walls by 30 cm and then covered with clapboard. Those. got a recessed waterproofed bathtub under the main floor.
4. The floorboards were made of edged pine slabs from 10 to 15 cm thick, 20-25 cm wide. They were impregnated several times with Pinotex antiseptic. The floorboards lay and rested on beams covered with roofing felt of the subfloor, located along the perimeter of the soap room. It was possible to lift several floorboards to dry the underground space.Causes of rotting or what the autopsy showed.
1. The floorboards began to be lifted for ventilation five years after the start of operation, when an understanding of the process began! They became putrefactive throughout their entire thickness, starting from the edges (at the points of support).
2. Raising and lowering heavy floorboards led to a break in the roofing material and water getting onto the subfloor boards. Some of the water began to get under the bathhouse. This made the problem worse.
3. The central beam of the V-shaped floor, due to settlement of the bathhouse and swelling of the soil, began to touch the ground with its lower end and began to rot.
Conclusion: in general, the board under the subfloor, where it was dry, was perfectly preserved, even remaining white after almost 10 years of use. This means that a dry board located under roofing felt is not susceptible to rotting.
Making a decision to reconstruct the floor, taking into account the shortcomings of 10 years of operation.
1. It was decided to leave the design of the subfloor as before: V-shaped under roofing felt with a drain into the pipe. Just raise the roofing material higher up the wall under the lining and make it in two layers of coating with reinforcement in the places where the floorboards touch. Reinforcement should be made with a 40X40 aluminum angle.
2. Replace wooden floorboards with plastic window sills with stiffeners. To avoid deflection, lay a galvanized thrust pipe in the center to distribute the load.
We purchased: 4 2-meter window sills 50 cm wide and one 2-meter 30 cm wide. Total 2.3 linear meters and 15 cm for drainage.
2,300 rubles were paid for everything.
Every owner land plot allocated for a summer cottage or construction country house, wishes to have on it good bath. During the construction of this beloved structure, many questions arise, among which the floor in the bathhouse is not the least important. Or rather, its correct design, which would allow water to flow freely without stagnating on the floor. Would you like the floors in your bathhouse to be always warm? You don't know how to make the floor in your bathhouse dry, warm and non-slippery? This means that we need to study this issue well, ask experienced builders, take a closer look at the arrangement of floors in the bathhouses of your friends. Video lessons posted online can also help.
Wooden floors in the bathhouse - advantages and disadvantages
Previously, it was customary to lay floors in bathhouses from boards, which were laid directly on compacted earth, and later they began to use logs to secure them. Wood is rightfully considered the warmest, most reliable, affordable and relatively durable material, used since ancient times for the construction of bath floors. Wooden floors are still in demand, although in the market building materials they have many worthy competitors. For what advantages do Russians love wooden floors and are happy to install them in their bathhouses?
Advantages of plank bath floors
- compliance with environmental requirements, because wood is natural material, not harmful to human health;
- aesthetic appeal, emphasizing the good taste of the bathhouse owner and his desire to continue Russian traditions;
- low financial costs compared to installing floors from other materials;
- speed of installation.
Technologies for constructing a wooden foundation
When installing a plank floor, one of two technologies is selected. The first involves the construction of a leaky floor, in which, when laying, gaps are specially left through which water flows. Sometimes instead of cracks in the boards they drill round holes in a place where water accumulates. The main disadvantage of such a floor in a bathhouse is that it is always cold, especially in winter time. Therefore, experts recommend laying such a floor in a bathhouse built only in warm regions.
In areas with harsh climates, it is better to use the second technology, which allows you to install a non-leak wooden floor, while organizing the outflow of water through a pit along sewer pipe into a well located outside the bathhouse. With this design, the floor surface is constructed at a slight slope of 10 degrees. This slope allows water to flow down to the ladder, along which it rushes into a pit connected to cesspool or a septic tank with a wide pipe produced for installation sewer networks. The diameter of the pipe should be 150 or 200 mm. This cross-section will provide greater throughput drains per unit of time.
Arrangement of a leak-proof floor involves the construction of a “rough” floor, as well as hydro- and thermal insulation works. It is the installation of a bathhouse floor using this technology that makes it possible to achieve comfortable temperature a surface that allows you to enjoy all bath procedures
How to make a floor depending on the soil?
Work begins with preparing the foundation, the construction technology of which depends on the chosen method of draining water from the washing compartment of the bathhouse. When installing a leaky floor, the drain can be organized in two versions, depending on the type of soil under the bathhouse:
- If the soil on which the bathhouse is placed is sandy, then a 25-centimeter layer of crushed stone is poured under the floor to drain the wastewater. This drainage ensures rapid absorption of water into the soil, thereby preventing it from stagnating under the coating. Organizing timely drainage of waste water slows down the process of rotting of the boards and joists on which they are packed.
- If the soil is clayey and does not have good absorbency, then drainage is more difficult to arrange. We have to arrange clay castle, build a pit and lay a pipe that drains water from it into a septic tank, which is periodically pumped out by a sewage disposal machine. To construct a clay castle, the surface is covered with a 10-centimeter layer of crushed stone, on top of which a layer of clay 15 cm thick is laid. In this case, the clay layer is given a slope, the value of which should not be less than 10 degrees. Naturally, the slope is made towards the pit, which is constructed in the form of a square pit, the walls of which are also coated with clay. A pipe is installed in one of them.
Crushed stone drainage under leaking floors
Important! Clay can be replaced with concrete if you have the means to buy the ingredients to mix it. We also note that in the case of non-leaky floors, the drain is arranged only according to the second option.
Laying joists and flooring
The lags are laid on support chairs, which can be made of brick with the obligatory construction of a monolithic concrete platform under each of them. At the same time, they dig a hole, the depth of which should be about 40 cm. The length and width are determined by the size of the support chair, adding 5 cm on all sides. Sand (10 cm) is poured onto the bottom, spilled with water and compacted. This is followed by a layer of crushed stone (15 cm), which is also carefully compacted. Next, formwork is arranged, into which two layers of concrete are poured, between which a piece of masonry mesh is laid. All supports must be at the same level. When the concrete has set and gained the required degree of strength, waterproofing work is carried out. In this case, a layer of molten petroleum bitumen is applied, on top of which roofing felt is laid.
For a leaking floor, the logs are laid at the same level, and for a non-leaking flooring, it is necessary to create a 10-degree slope using notches in wooden blocks, which increase as you approach the pit.
In the first case, the floor is laid from edged boards, and in the second - tongue and groove boards. Moreover, first they build a subfloor, which is covered with glassine, and on top of this insulating material Expanded clay is poured, which acts as a heat insulator. Waterproofing material is also laid on top of the expanded clay.
Important! Properly arranged wooden floors can last a maximum of 7-10 years if antiseptics are used.
Should I make a concrete floor?
If you want to create stronger floors, then use alternative way. For craftsmen who know how to work with concrete solutions, no need to explain how to fill the floor in a bathhouse. The main advantage of a concrete floor is its long service life, reaching 30 years. The aesthetic appeal of the floor is achieved by laying special tiles or wooden gratings.
Concrete floor in a bathhouse with tiles laid on it
Important! Using a system laid under concrete screed, allows you to provide the required temperature level flooring in the bath.
If you understand the technology of work, then you can safely get to work. However, one cannot underestimate the complexity of these construction works, so it is still advisable to enlist the help of professionals. We also invite you to read the article on the professional bath portal: “How to make a floor in a bathhouse: leaky and non-leaky wooden structures + concrete option.” Local specialists can be very helpful.