Proper watering of cyclamen. How to water cyclamen so that it blooms for six months Some questions about care

The popularity of cyclamen - this lovely flowering plant - in Lately is only increasing. In indoor culture, two types are most common: Persian cyclamen and European cyclamen. Both are captivatingly charming original flowers. Persian cyclamen blooms in winter, when few plants bloom brightly. Read our article on how to care for cyclamen at home.

Cyclamen. © Thomas Kohler

Description of the cyclamen plant

Genus Cyclamen ( Cyclamen), or Dryakva, or Alpine violet from the Myrsinaceae family ( Myrsinaceae), sometimes attributed to the family Primroses ( Primulaceae) and includes about 20 species.

Species of the genus Cyclamen are perennial herbaceous plants, common in the Mediterranean; from Spain in the west to Iran in the east, as well as in Northeast Africa, including Somalia.

The basal dark green leathery heart-shaped leaves of cyclamen are located on long petioles up to 30 cm and have a decorative grayish silver pattern.

Cyclamen flowers are very original: pointed, curved back, sometimes fringed petals give the impression that a flock of exotic butterflies is circling over the plant.

The color palette of cyclamens is very wide: hybrids with snow-white flowers have been bred, the whole range of pink shades to dark red, burgundy, and purple. Cyclamen bloom lasts quite a long time, up to 3.5 months. Depending on the variety and room conditions flowering can begin in the second half of October and last until the end of March.

Very often, cyclamens are described as capricious and difficult to cultivate plants. In fact, cyclamen is unpretentious, and the few requirements that it makes in culture can be very easily satisfied.

Cyclamen. © Ria Baeck

Caring for cyclamen at home

Lighting and temperature

Cyclamens are light-loving, but do not tolerate direct sunlight. sun rays. It is better to keep them in partial shade. They grow well on the windowsills of western and eastern windows. South windows will require shading from direct sunlight. Plants near windows with northern exposure may not have enough light.

A necessary condition for the normal development of cyclamens and their abundant flowering is light and cool conditions in winter (about 10°C, not higher than 12-14°C). In summer, the preferred temperature is around 18-25°C (the pot with the plant can be placed in shady place and dig it in).

Watering and spraying

During flowering, the plant is watered abundantly or moderately with soft, settled water, avoiding both waterlogging and drying out of the earthen clod. You should water the cyclamen carefully, into the edge of the pot, trying not to soak the buds and tubers, or even better, from the tray.

Water should not be allowed to get into the core of the plant - the tuber may rot. The water temperature should be 2-4°C below room temperature. After 1-2 hours, excess water is drained from the saucer to prevent the roots from rotting. After flowering, watering of cyclamen is gradually reduced, and by the beginning of summer, when all the leaves turn yellow and dry out, and the tubers remain bare, watering is rare.

Before the buds appear, the plants are sprayed from time to time. Once the buds appear, spraying of cyclamen should be stopped, otherwise they may rot. To increase humidity, the plant can be placed on a tray with damp moss, expanded clay or pebbles. In this case, the bottom of the pot should not touch the water. It is better to use rainwater, filtered or settled water.

Cyclamen. © liz west

Feeding

During the period of growth of leaf mass before flowering, plants are fed with complete mineral fertilizer every 2 weeks. Cyclamens respond well to organic fertilizers. You can't give too much nitrogen fertilizers- tuberous roots may rot.

Caring for a flowerpot at rest

Cyclamen blooms for quite a long time. Depending on the variety and room conditions, it can begin in the second half of October and last until the end of March. In the spring, after flowering ends, the plants go into a dormant state (they begin to lose leaves). In this regard, watering is gradually reduced, and by the beginning of summer, when all the leaves turn yellow and dry, and the tubers remain bare, watering is rare.

The room where the plants are located is regularly ventilated. More better pots At this time, take the tubers into the garden or onto the balcony in a place protected from the sun. After a period of rest (late summer - early autumn), cyclamen is placed in a bright, cool place and watering is gradually increased.

Another option for preserving the tuber until the new winter season is as follows. After flowering ends, watering is significantly reduced. Then, after the leaves fall, the pot with cyclamen is laid on its side and kept in this position until the next season.

Cyclamen grows for 10-15 years and can produce up to 70 flowers annually. Faded and wilted flowers are removed along with the peduncle. As the flowers fade and the leaves turn yellow, they are plucked off (but not cut) from the tuber itself. The break areas should be well sprinkled with charcoal powder.

Cut (pulled) cyclamen flowers stand well in water (1-2 weeks). The water in the vase needs to be changed every 2-3 days. After cutting, the ends of the peduncles are cut lengthwise for 2-3 days. This extends the cutting period to 2-3 weeks.

Transfer

At the end of summer and autumn, when small heart-shaped leaves begin to sprout from the cyclamen tuber, the plants are brought indoors and transplanted into a wide container with a fresh loose mixture of leaf soil, humus, peat and sand (2-3:1:1:1).

The substrate can consist of 2 parts of leaf soil, 1 part of well-decomposed humus soil and 0.5 parts of sand. The acidity of the substrate (pH) should be about 5.5-6. At a higher pH (about 7), plants become susceptible to various fungal diseases.

During the process of replanting cyclamen, care is taken not to damage the roots, and rotten roots are cut out. For 1 kg of substrate you can add 0.4 g of ammonium nitrate, 1 g of superphosphate, 4 g of phosphate rock.

Please note that when transplanting, you cannot completely bury the tuber. One third or even half of the tuber should be above the soil surface, which will have a beneficial effect on the further flowering of the plant. At the bottom of the pot provide good drainage.

Cyclamen. © Andrea_44

Reproduction of cyclamen

Propagating cyclamen at home is quite difficult. Hobbyists usually resort to dividing the tuber. You can also grow it from seeds, but you will have to wait longer for flowering.

To obtain good, full-fledged cyclamen seeds at home, artificial (preferably cross) pollination is necessary. Using a soft brush, take pollen from a flower of one plant and transfer it to the stigma of another. If there is one plant, then pollen from one flower is transferred to the stigma of another. For greater reliability, this procedure is repeated 2-3 times.

The best time for pollination of cyclamen is the morning hours of a clear sunny day, as in this case the ovaries form faster. At this time, it would be good to feed the plants with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (1 g of superphosphate and 0.5 g of potassium sulfate per 1 liter of water). Seeds should not be dried after collection, otherwise germination will be greatly reduced.

Cyclamen seeds are often available for sale, but they are much less reliable than growing your own. Their germination strongly depends not so much on the manufacturer, but on the batch of seeds.

The optimal time for sowing Persian cyclamen seeds is August, as it has a dormant period in the summer.

Before sowing, cyclamen seeds can be poured with a 5% sugar solution and only those that have sunk to the bottom can be taken (those that have floated are not suitable). Also, seeds are soaked in a zircon solution for a day.

Use a light substrate, for example, mix leaf soil and peat in a 1:1 ratio, or peat and vermiculite (1:1).

Cyclamen seeds are laid out on the surface of a moistened substrate and sprinkled thin layer earth (0.5 - 1 cm). Seeds do not need light to germinate, so they can be covered with an opaque film. The optimal temperature for germination is +20°C; if it is higher, germination is inhibited and the seeds may go into hibernation. You should also not lower the temperature below +18°C, as the seeds will simply rot at this temperature. It is necessary to monitor the soil moisture and periodically ventilate the container with seeds.

Usually at a temperature of +20°C, cyclamen shoots appear in 30-40 days. After the seedlings germinate, remove the shading, place it in a well-lit place, without direct sunlight, and lower the temperature to +15-17°C.

When cyclamen seedlings form small nodules with two or three leaves (around December), they are planted in a container with a mixture of leaf soil, peat and sand (2:1:0.5). When picking, the nodules are covered with earth, whereas in an adult cyclamen the top of the tuber is usually not covered.

A week after picking, they can be fed with flower fertilizers in a half-diluted dose. You can feed with a 0.2% (2 g/l) solution of ammonium sulfate, and after another 10 days - with 0.1% (1 g/l) potassium nitrate. In April-May they are transplanted into individual pots.

Cyclamens grown from seeds bloom 13-15 months after sowing.

Cyclamen. © Lisa Cancade Hackett

Diseases and pests of cyclamen

Fusarium wilt

Fusarium is a fungal disease caused by the fungus Fusarium; under its influence are affected vascular system and plant tissue. The disease has several names: “drying out”, “core rot”, “dry rot”.

With fusarium wilts, damage and death of plants occur due to a sharp disruption of vital functions due to blockage of blood vessels by the mycelium of the fungus and the release of toxic substances. Pathogens persist for a long time in the soil and on plant debris and enter plants through the root system and the lower part of the stem.

Symptoms: Externally, the disease manifests itself in yellowing of the leaves, which begins from the tops. Often yellowing and wilting of leaves occurs on one side of the plant. The second side of the cyclamen can continue to grow, but good flowering It’s hard to expect anything from such a plant. The fungus enters the plant through young roots and spreads throughout the tuber. The affected tissues are destroyed; general form the plants are deteriorating. A section of the tuber shows the affected vascular bundles.

Control measures: watering plants at the roots with foundationazole (0.1%), spraying the above-ground mass with topsin-M (0.1%).

Wet rot

This is a very dangerous bacterial disease. Caused by the pathogen Erwinia.

Symptoms: the disease begins with the plant suddenly withering, leaves and peduncles hanging from the pot, and an unpleasant putrid odor emerging from the infected tuber. The roots of the cyclamen also begin to rot. The bacterium enters the plant through cracks and wounds on the tuber or vegetative organs. Cyclamen infection often occurs in places where leaves or flower stalks are torn off. The source of infection is contaminated water or a diseased plant. The appearance of the disease is promoted by warm and wet weather in summer when keeping cyclamens in the garden, on the balcony, on the loggia.

Control measures: does not exist, cyclamen must be destroyed in order to prevent diseases of other plants.

Gray rot

The fungus Botrytis cinerea attacks plants that are weakened due to poor location; it is especially dangerous in damp and cold air. Fungal spores are spread by wind and water. Infection occurs at high humidity, high density of cyclamen and cold night conditions. Improper watering and water getting into the “growth point” of leaves and buds contribute to the development of this disease in the plant.

Symptoms: gray mold appears on the leaves and stems of cyclamen, which takes off when there is strong air movement; the affected parts of the plant darken and die. Peduncles are especially susceptible to this disease. Cyclamen leaves turn yellow and die.

Control measures: Carefully remove affected parts of the plant. Ventilate the room, but avoid drafts. Spray cyclamen less often, water less (preferably in the morning, so that the soil has time to dry out during the day). The diseased plant is treated with a systemic fungicide.

Root rot

Root rots are caused by various fungi (Rhizoctonia solani, Ramularia cyclaminicola); The pathogens live in the soil. The disease occurs when cyclamen is planted in ordinary garden soil that has not been steamed. The disease often attacks young cyclamens, slowing their growth.

Symptoms: dark, non-viable areas appear on the roots of young and adult cyclamens. Symptoms appear on the leaves as if they do not have enough chlorophyll: the leaves turn pale because they lack nutrition due to damaged roots.

Control measures: use only sterilized soil for planting cyclamens. If cyclamen is sick, try drenching the soil with a systemic fungicide. But this measure is not always effective; The young cyclamen will most likely not be saved. You may have to part with your pet. You can try to save an adult cyclamen. It must be removed from the pot, washed and damaged roots removed, then treated with a fungicide and planted in a steamed earthen mixture.

Anthracnose

Caused by a fungus of the genus Gloeosporium. This is a soil fungus that harms cyclamens during flowering. The disease develops in warm and humid conditions.

Symptoms: The growth zone of leaves and peduncles is affected. The disease may remain undetected for some time until the cyclamen produces flower stalks. Affected peduncles stop developing and look distorted, top part the flower stalks seem to dry out. Flowering does not occur because the flower stalks do not develop. Contact with infected flower stalks causes infection of the leaves. Young leaves at the edges dry out and curl, old leaves dry out and die.

Control measures: To prevent disease, use steamed soil. When symptoms appear, try to keep humidity levels relatively low. Remove damaged flower stalks and leaves. Treat the diseased plant with fungicides 2-3 times.

Sooty fungus

Symptoms: The black fungus appears on the sweetish secretions that aphids leave on the leaves. An ugly-looking coating of fungus in itself is not dangerous for the plant, but it clogs the stomata and covers the leaf surface from light, as a result of which growth slows down and the plant weakens. Affected leaves will dry out over time if the necessary measures are not taken.

Control measures: sooty deposits are washed off with a wet cloth moistened with a 2% solution of green soap, followed by treatment with a copper-soap solution, then the plant is washed with clean warm water. You can treat cyclamen with a fungicide.

When talking about caring for cyclamen at home, it is necessary to touch upon many aspects, the observance of which directly affects the well-being of the plant. You must devote a lot of time to this flower, because without proper attention it will not live long.

In this article we talk about what types of cyclamen exist, how not to make a mistake when choosing a flower in the store, and of course, how to grow and care for cyclamen at home. Also from the article you will learn about how to deal with possible diseases and pests, how to replant and propagate a plant, and in what cases it should be disposed of.

By following all the rules for caring for cyclamen, you can grow a beautiful, healthy flower that will become a delicate aesthetic decoration for your interior. The activity is quite labor-intensive, but it's worth it.

Cyclamen: leaves, flowers, seeds

Cyclamen is a winter-flowering plant and the entire cycle of its vegetation is subordinated to this feature. In the summer, in the heat cyclamen is in a dormant state, and comes to life in the fall, growing new leaves and produces buds on long peduncles curled downwards.

• Cyclamen flowering falls in late autumn, winter and spring, which makes cyclamen very valuable house plant.
• Especially often given and received as a gift cyclamens during the winter holidays. When purchasing, choose cyclamen with many young buds, which are usually “hidden” under leaves.
• Homemade cyclamen leaves beautiful heart-shaped, the upper surface is often decorated with interesting “marble” patterns.

Cyclamen flowers have 5 petals bent back, color which are usually more intense at the base. Cyclamen flowers often have a subtle, refined “papery” aroma.

Homemade cyclamen - growing features

The cyclamen root is a flattened round corm up to 15 cm in diameter with a single growing point. Damage it and destroy the bulb. Cyclamen leaves are basal, leathery, heart-shaped, growing on petioles up to 30 cm long, dark green in color with a grayish-silver pattern. The flowers have an original shape and look like strange butterflies - the petals are bent and pointed, sometimes have a fringed shape, and color palette incredibly wide - boiling white, pink, all shades of red, burgundy and purple. Cyclamen blooms for longer than three months.

There is an opinion that indoor cyclamen is a capricious plant. Don't believe it! Cyclamen is unpretentious, it’s just that its agricultural technology, like the agricultural technology of any other plant, has certain requirements, the obligatory fulfillment of which will allow you to easily cope with its cultivation. So:

• - under no circumstances store faded cyclamen tubers in the refrigerator - after such storage the bulb will not wake up;
• – the cyclamen flower does not tolerate heat and stuffiness, but lives well in a cool room at a temperature that is uncomfortable for humans – only 6-12 ºC;
• – direct sunlight can cause burns on beautiful leaves cyclamen;
• – do not bury the cyclamen tuber in the ground: at least a third of the bulb should remain on the surface;
• – cyclamen does not tolerate excess mineral salts in the soil, so be careful with fertilizers;
• – the pot for cyclamen needs to be small, so that from the bulb to the wall of the pot there is a layer of soil no thicker than 2-3 cm.

Growing cyclamen from seeds

How to grow cyclamen.

A species such as Persian cyclamen reproduces by seeds. Cyclamen seeds are sown in February or March, although cyclamen grown at home can be propagated at any time of the year. On the eve of planting, soak the seeds for 12 hours in a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate or in Epin or Zircon preparations prepared according to the instructions.

After this, sow the seeds in an earthen mixture for cyclamen, consisting of two parts of pre-steamed soil, one part of a soil mixture such as “tulip” or “terra vita” and half of river sand to loosen the soil.

It will be better if you make a groove 1 cm deep in the soil, pour it well with water and place the seeds in it 2-3 cm apart. Sprinkle the seeds with a layer of soil on top and cover the container with glass or film. At a temperature of 18-20 ºC, seeds germinate in 30-60 days, although there are slow-growing varieties that germinate in five or more months!

Planting cyclamen.

When sprouts appear, remove the cover and move the container with them to a more illuminated place, but away from direct sunlight! When two true leaves appear, the seedlings sprout 2-3 seedlings into one pot, completely covering the nodules with soil.

The soil should be loose, such as a “tulip” mixture or the same mixture in which you sowed the seeds. After 6-7 months, you can transplant the grown cyclamen into pots with a diameter of 6-7 cm with the same soil mixture.

Planting cyclamen in this case requires deepening the corm no more than two-thirds of its size so that the growing point rises above the soil surface. If you care for cyclamen at home correctly, you will be able to see it bloom a year and a half after sowing the seeds.

Caring for home cyclamen

How to care for cyclamen at home.

Cyclamen is a flower that requires bright, indirect light and cool (6-12 ºC) temperatures. In addition, you will have to frequently ventilate the room, but under no circumstances create drafts in it - this is unacceptable for cyclamen.

Frequent spraying will make the air humidity in the room higher, which cyclamen really likes; in addition, it can reduce the temperature by a couple of degrees in the summer heat.

The plant also needs fertilizing with complex fertilizer for flowering plants, but be careful with the consistency - it is better to underfeed this plant than to overfeed it.

How to water cyclamen.

During the period of active growth, cyclamen requires regular watering, but try to avoid fanaticism in this matter: watering should be sufficient, but not excessive.

To be sure that the plant has enough moisture, use the bottom watering method - place the pot of cyclamen in a container of water and keep it in it until it gets wet upper layer soil, then remove the pot from the water and allow the excess to drain.

This method, by the way, will not allow moisture to get to the top of the tuber, where the growth point is located, thereby minimizing the risk of plant rotting.

Reproduction of cyclamen.

Cyclamens reproduce by seed, which we described in detail in the previous section, and by vegetative means by dividing the tuber. But only those corms that have more than one growing point can be divided, and this happens very rarely. In addition, the process of dividing and rooting part of a tuber for an amateur often ends in failure, so we can assume that the seed method of propagating cyclamen is the only possible one.

Cyclamen after purchase.

How to care for cyclamen immediately after purchase? Sometimes the next day after you bring the purchased cyclamen home, it drops flowers and even leaves. Don't panic - this is completely natural behavior for cyclamen.

• He needs to get used to your environment, and you try to create for him the conditions in which he will be comfortable.
• The cyclamen flower should occupy the brightest and coolest place in the house.
• Check the substrate, and if it is dry, give the plant a drink using bottom watering or watering in a pan - in these cases, the plant will receive exactly as much moisture as it needs.

Be sure to spray the plant. Do not feed cyclamen for two to three months after purchase - plants that go on sale are well and long-term fertilized.

Cyclamen flowering.

Cyclamen blooms either in summer or winter, and the time, that is, the duration of the plant’s flowering, directly depends on how you follow the rules for caring for cyclamen. Let us remind you that optimal conditions conditions under which cyclamen will bloom long and profusely are as follows: a lot of light, but without direct sunlight; The optimal temperature for flowering is not lower than 10 ºC and not higher than 20 ºC. Water either from the bottom or in a tray so that moisture does not get on either the growing point or the leaves with flowers. Trim faded flowers.

Replanting cyclamen

How to transplant cyclamen.

Cyclamen is replanted into a new substrate about once every two years if the pot has become too small for the bulb. This should be done at the end of the dormant period before the start of active growing season. But remember that cyclamen does not need a spacious pot; it blooms well only in a cramped one, when the layer of earth from the bulb to the wall of the pot is no thicker than 2-3 cm.

For example, for a bulb aged 1-1.5 years, a pot with a diameter of 7-8 cm is suitable, and for a two- to three-year-old bulb - with a diameter of 14-15 cm. In a new pot, place expanded clay for drainage, a layer of fresh substrate, then the bulb along with a lump of earth and roots and add enough substrate so that the tuber is immersed in it two-thirds. Compact the soil well. The transplanted cyclamen will need fertilizer no earlier than in a month.

Replanting cyclamen after purchase.

After purchase, cyclamen is replanted only if it is in a dormant period, which in itself is strange - who buys a bulb buried in the soil?

If you bought blooming cyclamen, wait until it blooms and rests, and then, at the very beginning of the growing season, if the bulb is crowded or you want to change the technical plastic pot on a beautiful one, transplant the cyclamen in the described way. Or, if the plant is doing well in an old pot, it is better to place the ugly pot of cyclamen in a beautiful planter.

Cyclamen prefers a cool room (+13-16 degrees) with bright lighting. Best for homemade cyclamen East or west windows are suitable in summer and south windows in winter. Do not put it cyclamen under direct sunlight or near a heat source (battery, fireplace).

Temperature, location and lighting

Cyclamen likes to have bright lighting around it, but direct exposure to the sun's rays is not desirable for it; it is better to hide the flower from them. IN winter time For such a plant, we recommend a room where the air is heated only 12 degrees, no higher and with good lighting. in summer for favorable growth Flower at room temperature is sufficient.

• Purple cyclamen does not have a clear dormant period; wintering is usually not done for it, but it would not hurt it. This differs from the alpine violet, which, in turn, after the flowering period (May-June) goes dormant and begins to shed its leaves.
• The best place to grow cyclamen is eastern and western windows. If the plant is located on the south side, it is important to protect it from direct sunlight. The room where cyclamen grows must be regularly ventilated.
• Hybrids cyclamen persian — heat-loving plants, so temperatures below +10 degrees are as uncomfortable for them as heat.

Along with the coolness, cyclamens prefer relatively wet air, but spraying from a spray bottle is strictly contraindicated for them. Instead, you can simply hold the planter with cyclamens on a tray of wet gravel or near a water source.

Air humidity

Cyclamen is a plant that loves high humidity. During growth, the leaves need to be sprayed. As soon as cyclamen begins to bloom, spraying is no longer necessary. To increase the humidity level, you can create water mist near the plant. You can also place it on a tray with wet pebbles. In winter, cyclamen should be placed at a great distance from central heating radiators.

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Watering

Watering cyclamen should only be done when the surface of the substrate is slightly dry. Better water the cyclamen from below, leaving the pot with flower in a container of lukewarm water for 10-15 minutes, and then be sure to drain all the water before installing again cyclamen in a flowerpot. If water gets on the base of the tuber and leaves of cyclamen, it can cause dangerous fungal disease cyclamen - gray rot(Botrytis cinerea) and plant rotting.

Cyclamen, like orchids, will tolerate drying out of the soil more easily than excessive watering, although you shouldn’t let the plant dry out either. From excess water cyclamen leaves turn yellow, and the tuber rots!

Feed cyclamen general fertilizer for house plants during the entire active growing season (from autumn to spring) once every 2-3 weeks. Excess fertilizer stimulates active growth cyclamen leaves, but not the formation of buds.

Watering

At the time of flowering, you need to water so that water does not get on the roots. It is necessary to distribute the moisture evenly so that there is no overflow or, conversely, the earthen ball does not dry out. The Persian type of plant needs to be watered less during dormancy, but make sure that the soil does not dry out, while the European plant is watered the same all year round.

The soil

It is very important to create aeration of the cyclamen root system. It is advisable to use a breathable substrate made of coarse-fiber peat. For optimal soil composition, you need equal parts of sand, humus and peat, as well as three parts of leaf soil.

Feeding and fertilizer

Complete mineral fertilizer, which is applied to flowering plants, or organic matter - this is what you need to feed cyclamen once every two weeks. You need to start this from the moment the leaves develop and continue until it blooms.

Transfer

Alpine violet is transplanted when new leaves appear on it (late June). With the European one, this must be done in early spring (March-April) and replanted annually.

• It is advisable to replant the plant in a low container and wide enough.
• When replanting, it is necessary to take into account one point, that the roots of the purple cyclamen are completely covered with earth, and in the Persian root system hides halfway into the ground.
• Then, until the roots are thoroughly established, you need to water less often, and then increase the moisture.

Removing faded flowers and leaves

Withered flowers (as well as yellowed cyclamen leaves) should be removed by completely unscrewing the peduncle from the tuber, otherwise the base of the peduncle may rot and eventually lead to the death of the plant.

• At the beginning of spring cyclamen bloom comes to an end, over time the leaves turn yellow and fall off. Majority homemade cyclamens naturally slow down or complete their annual growing cycle in April-May. At that time feeding cyclamen stop and gradually reduce watering.
• Cyclamen tuber in summer they are stored in the ground, in a cool place, only occasionally slightly moistening the substrate. It should also be kept in mind that not all cyclamens at home go to summer rest. Some homemade cyclamens They never shed their leaves, and they bloom almost constantly.
• In September cyclamen comes to life and produces new leaves. At this time, the top layer of substrate should be replaced with fresh or replant cyclamen(see below) and soak pot of cyclamen in water until the soil is completely wet.

Then drain the pot completely. From now on, regular watering and fertilizing cyclamen. If cyclamen care is correct, then soon the plant will again produce many buds and bloom.

Cyclamen: why do the leaves turn yellow?

Cyclamen leaves turn yellow naturally at the end of the growing season, when cyclamen preparing for a period of rest. If the leaves of homemade cyclamen began to turn yellow during the flowering of the plant, That cyclamen care, most likely needs to be improved. TO yellowing of cyclamen leaves may have caused excessive heat in the room where the plant is kept.

Too high temperatures disrupt the growing season cyclamen and artificially brings the rest period closer. To correct the situation, provide cyclamen the most important conditions: bright light without direct sunlight, a cool window sill and submerged watering only after the soil in the pot dries out slightly.

Cyclamen: transplantation and propagation

Replanting cyclamen carried out at the end of summer, when the plant is just coming to life after a dormant state. A transplant is required if cyclamen tuber filled the entire space of the pot or if it’s time to change the substrate (usually once every 2 years). Released young cyclamen roots transplanted into a slightly larger pot with fresh soil, which is carefully compacted.

• They're imprisoning cyclamen tuber level with the ground surface or slightly higher and lightly sprinkled with coarse sand.
• Soil for cyclamen are made by carefully mixing coarse sand with organic matter (leaf humus, peat, rotted bark, coconut fiber, etc.) in a 1:2 ratio. Cyclamen prefers slightly acidic soil.
• Cyclamen is propagated by dividing the tuber or by seeds.. However propagation of indoor cyclamens may not be an easy task.

Plants that have several growth points on the tuber (similar to potatoes) are suitable for dividing by tuber. Part cyclamen tuber with an “eye” are cut off with a clean, sharp knife and transplanted into a separate pot in special soil for seedlings. Despite all the precautions taken cyclamen tubers often rot.

For propagation of cyclamen by seeds Using a soft brush, pollinate the flowers several times. Withered cyclamen flowers do not cut, but let them dry naturally. Cyclamen seeds taken out of the fruit-box shortly before it is ready to open, and soaked in warm water for a day. After that cyclamen seeds sown in boxes in the soil for seedlings at a large distance from each other, sprinkled with a half-centimeter layer of vermiculite.

The box is kept in the dark at a temperature of 17-20 degrees, moistening the soil with a spray bottle. Rising cyclamen seeds not at the same time, shoots appear after 4-8 weeks. After the sprouts appear, the boxes are exposed to light. Small plants with 2-3 leaves can now be carefully dug up and transplanted into separate pots.

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Types of cyclamen

At that time it was more common to find European cyclamen or as it is also called, Alpine violet. Nowadays the most popular is the Persian version. They are not very different from each other in care, but the characteristics of each must still be taken into account.

In nature, of course, there are much more of them, not to mention the hybrids bred by breeders. Cyclamen domestica was previously considered a winter-blooming flower., because it’s all in bloom winter period before spring comes. Hybrids with their appearance marked all-seasons, the ability to bloom regardless of the season. It is these flowers that we buy under the name “Persian cyclamen”.

It is difficult to say whether their hybridity affected healing properties it is unknown, but the fact that the tuber remained just as poisonous is certain. Therefore, you should be careful. The cyclamen tuber is large, even its miniature specimens have a diameter of 8 cm, while giants can reach 30 cm.

Purchase

If you decide to buy not a ready-made plant in a pot, but only its tuber, then ask the seller about its type and age, and examine it carefully. He must have a weighty mass, be hard and elastic. See if the tuber has buds that are located in its upper part.

Cyclamen: care at home

The plant needs good care and a competent approach.

Choosing a location and lighting

Remember that home cyclamen does not tolerate drafts, but stagnant air is also harmful to it. The plant needs good lighting, therefore, the location on the windowsill is exactly what it needs, however, It’s better to place it on a non-opening window, but in a regularly ventilated room. It is worth noting that it requires good lighting only during the period of budding and flowering; during the dormant period it is completely unnecessary.

This is especially true for the Persian species of cyclamen, in which this period is pronounced. At this time it simply sheds its leaves and goes into a state of sleep. The European species also needs rest. Both types are placed in a cool place without bright light.

Many would-be flower growers advise beginners to put the tubers in the refrigerator, after first separating them from the pot. This can't be done, because after such an execution the plant will never wake up. This will be the end of your care for him. So leave it in the pot.

Temperature

Caring for cyclamen at home implies an optimal temperature. On this occasion, I would like to once again dwell on the choice of a window sill as the correct location for this flower. Since it is unlikely that anywhere in the room you can find a temperature of up to 15 degrees, because cyclamen for healthy and proper development this indicator is needed in the range of 6–15 degrees above zero. If the temperature is higher, flowering will become scarce and short-lived. Therefore, species that bloom in winter look more presentable.

Moistening the soil, air, applying fertilizers

Cyclamen does not like either waterlogging or drying out of the earthen coma. The optimal solution watering will begin through the pan. Because with top watering, water can get to the growth point of the tuber, which will lead to rotting and death of the plant.

The same reason does not allow spraying the flower, especially during flowering. However, cyclamen requires high humidity. This can be arranged using a pallet with wet expanded clay, where a pot with a flower is placed, and it is also easy to place containers filled with water next to it.

If you have recently acquired this spectacular crop, you need to forget about fertilizers for 2–4 months, because the substrate contains more than is required. After this time, fertilizer is applied twice a month, excluding the dormant period. Give preference to liquid fertilizers for flowering plants. Do not use complex mineral fertilizer, as it contains a lot of mineral salts, which is bad for the flower.

Transfer

Many professional gardeners advise replanting cyclamen after a dormant period, but it is better to leave the flower in a pot for 2 years, when the need arises. She comes when the tuber does not fit in the pot, and this happens, as a rule, exactly once every 2 years. After this time, replant.

When planting, you should consider the type of cyclamen. Thus, the European species is completely immersed in the ground, while its Persian counterpart is only half immersed. For Persian cyclamen you need a pot that is even a little cramped, the distance to the wall does not exceed 2–3 cm. Plant the European type in a more spacious one. This is due to root growth. In the Persian type they are directed downwards, while the European type fills the entire container with them. Some gardeners prefer to leave some of the roots of the European variety tuber outside as well.

The soil is purchased at the store, where you can buy it ready-made specifically for cyclamens, but you can cook it yourself. To do this, take:

1. substrate for cacti.
2. Leaf humus and peat are added to the container in equal proportions.

Drainage is also necessary. After planting a cyclomen flower, excessive watering is prohibited.. You just need to lightly moisten the soil. Watering is increased gradually after the first shoots appear.

Reproduction

The most in a simple way is daughter propagation by a tuber. To do this, you just need to separate the young tuber from the mother one and plant it in a separate container. All other methods of propagating cyclamen, in particular, through seeds are not effective. A novice florist is unlikely to cope with such a task.

Cultivation

Under indoor conditions, cultivation of cyclamen can last up to 7 years. After this period, it is no longer suitable for reproduction, so you need to buy a new one. Propagating cyclamen is a troublesome business. For industrial purposes, it is propagated using seeds. You can do this yourself by dividing the tuber.

Depending on the variety, the length of the period from sowing to flowering may vary. As a rule, this takes 7-11 months. It is advisable to sow seeds at the end of March. So, during the growth period, cyclamen can do without additional lighting, and it will begin to bloom in mid-autumn.

For seed germination it is necessary to create appropriate conditions. The air temperature should be around 18 degrees. High humidity and lack of light are welcome. To keep the crops in the dark, they are covered with black film for three weeks. At lower temperatures, cyclamens will germinate a little later. If they are above 20 degrees, germination will be slow. You can start picking seedlings after 3-4 full leaves appear. During diving, the young tuber is completely covered with earth.

Pest and disease control

Like any other plants living at home, cyclomenia will not get sick and will not will be attacked by pests, if care is carried out correctly and carefully. However, you can expect the following troubles:

Delicate, unusual and spectacular flowers cyclamen grown at home with careful care and attention, can create a joyful atmosphere in the house. We especially need positive emotions in winter, when there are so few sunny days. At this time, most types of cyclamen are in bloom, and today we learned how to care for them.

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Diseases and pests

Cyclamen don't attack much infectious diseases and pests. But it can be affected by the cyclamen mite.

Signs will be deformed leaves, crooked peduncles and curved buds. Mite infestation can be detected by initial stages not easy. In case of severe damage, preparations for exterminating pests do not always cope with their intended purpose.

These are the basic tips regarding caring for cyclamen; if you wish, you can find a more detailed description.

Cyclamen home care

Cyclamen requires bright light, but not direct rays, the light must be diffused, long exposure to direct sunlight harms the buds and leaves; a north window or loggia facing the north side is perfect for the plant.

In most cases, cyclamen is grown at home, which means that you need to be careful about watering. Cyclamen loves abundant watering, and during the flowering period, watering should be even more abundant, but this does not apply to cyclamen that bloom all year round; their watering is usually the same throughout all seasons.

Water requirements

Cyclamen prefers soft, settled, prepared water.

• Watering should be uniform. It must be remembered that this plant does not like water getting on the leaves, much less the petals.
• Watering can be done either with a watering can, but carefully so that no water gets on the leaves, or by immersion.
• Watering using the immersion method is not difficult, you take water into a basin (or similar container), let it settle, then immerse the pot in the water, it should be immersed almost completely, after that you wait, the earth should shine, after that you remove the pot from the water, let the excess water come out through drainage holes.

Air humidity should be high for all types of cyclamen. Home care involves regularly spraying the air around the cyclamen; before spraying, cover the cyclamen from drops. Also, to increase humidity, it is advisable to place the pot on a tray with damp peat, pebbles or moss.

Cyclamen loves cool rooms. The air temperature should not be high, but up to low temperatures You can't go down either. So, the ideal temperature for cyclamen will be 12-16 degrees, no lower and no higher. Temperatures of 21 degrees or more are detrimental to cyclamen!

Feeding an adult plant

Plants should be fed constantly, with the exception of the dormant period. You start fertilizing 3 weeks after purchasing the plant; if you grew cyclamen yourself, fertilizing should begin a week after the sprouts appear.

Fertilize only if the earthen ball is thoroughly saturated with water. Complex fertilizers are well suited for feeding. mineral fertilizers.

Cyclamen. How to care after flowering.

After flowering, cyclamen begins a dormant period. Often, without knowing the specifics of care after flowering, cyclamen is thrown away.

• So, after flowering has stopped, the flower should be trimmed, the buds should be completely cut off, and the yellowed leaves should also be cut off.
• Watering should be reduced. By spring, there will be little left of the cyclamen, but this is normal.
• In the spring, cyclamen is not watered and put away in a cooler room; many also place cyclamen on its side.

The cyclamen will remain in this state until mid-summer. By mid-summer it is worth transplanting the cyclamen into a separate pot and resuming watering.

Replanting cyclamen

When replanting cyclamen, the soil is completely replaced. When replanting, remove rotten and damaged roots. The dimensions of the pot for cyclamen are not standard; a pot that is not too small or too large is not suitable for it; choose a pot with a diameter of approximately 14-15 centimeters. The soil must be prepared and when replanting, do not compact the asthenia too much.

Difficulties and problems

If your cyclamen leaves turn yellow, but the flowers remain strong and healthy, then the problem is dry and warm air, or direct sunlight may also be the cause.

If the flower stalks become soft and begin to rot, then the soil of the cyclamen is waterlogged. This is very dangerous and often leads to the death of the plant, which is why the plant must be monitored and ensure good drainage.

Cyclamen is also often infected with the cyclamen mite; this disease is characterized by deformed, withered and small leaves. To combat mites, the preparations Agravertin and Fitoverm are used, treatment is carried out 2 times, with an interval of 10 days.

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Cyclamen's dormant period

In nature, cyclamens bloom in the fall or in early spring. After flowering, dormancy sets in; the leaves of cyclamen gradually turn yellow and die. home flower also alternates two periods.

• Many gardeners, using advice from flower reference books, try to preserve the tubers of a dormant plant in completely dry soil by placing the pot in the refrigerator.
• The tuber cannot be awakened after such “rest”. Overdrying is especially dangerous for very young plants with small tubers.
• As soon as you notice that the plant has flowered and started to lose its leaves, simply reduce watering and do not feed it.

But no refrigerators! After some time, the cyclamen will grow leaves again.

How to distinguish Persian cyclamen from European cyclamen (purple)

To understand how to care for cyclamen at home, you need to know what type of plant it is. The timing of flowering, the dormant period and the depth during transplantation differ for c. purple (European) (Cyclamen purpurascens) and c. Persian (Cyclamen persicum).

Signs by which you can distinguish types of cyclamen:

• Most often, Persian cyclamens are sold blooming in autumn and winter, and purple (European) ones are sold in spring and summer. Before the advent of modern hybrids, Persian cyclamen flowers were larger. But now it is impossible to distinguish the two types of cyclamen by flowers.
• Look at the back of the sheet. U c. purple it is lilac, even purple, in c. Persian - green, maybe with drawings.
• Notice how the plant sits in the pot. If the tuber protrudes above the ground level, this is c. Persian. If it is completely immersed in the soil, it is c. purple.
• Tuber c. Persian is flattened, does not form “children”, roots form only in the lower part.
• Tuber c. purple grows over time, forming small daughter nodules. The roots are located over the entire surface of the tuber.

Previously, it was customary to consider the names of the cyclamen species “purple” and “European” to be synonymous; from old manuals this was spread across the Internet. Since 1972, the more accurate name for the species has been cyclamen purpurea, rather than c. European. Under the name “European cyclamen” there are several European species on sale: c. purple (Cyclamen purpurascens), c. notched (C. repandum) and c. ivy leaf (C. hederifolium).

How to care for cyclamen at home

Cyclamen at home does not tolerate high temperatures: a cool place on the windowsill or glassed balcony optimal. At a temperature of +6...+12°C, flowering can last up to six months. Prefers diffused light and blooms well even on a northern window. Direct sun can even cause burns on the leaves. Try to find the brightest, coolest place in the apartment for the cyclamen so that the petioles of the growing leaves do not stretch out.

Loves loose, nutritious soil with a slightly acidic reaction (ready-made soil for violets is suitable) and good drainage. The pot should not be too large or deep. Cyclamen should be replanted no more than once every 2-3 years, and the new pot should not be much larger than the previous one.

The planting depth depends on the growth characteristics of the roots of the plant. different types:

- y cyclamen persian the roots grow exclusively from below, so the top of the tuber should be visible above the surface of the ground;

- y cyclamen European The roots grow over the entire surface of the tuber, which means it can be buried.

During the growth period, plants need regular watering (just do not allow moisture to stagnate!), and it is better to water in a tray or by immersion, so that water does not get on the top of the tuber (it can rot). Frequent spraying won't hurt either: cyclamen loves high air humidity. Fertilizing with complex fertilizers for flowering plants is also necessary.

Cyclamen rarely suffers from pests, but excessive dry air can cause spider mites to appear.

How to multiply cyclamen

Cyclamens are propagated by seeds or baby tubers. Contrary to the prohibitions of the authors of reference books, the flower is also propagated by dividing the tuber, which is effective for rejuvenation planting material. The method is suitable for tubers older than 3–4 years.

• During the dormant period (usually in February), an adult tuber is divided into parts with a sharp knife so that each division has at least one renewal bud.
• It is very important to sprinkle the cuts with crushed charcoal and dry for several days (longer drying will have a bad effect on survival rate).
• Then parts of the tuber are planted in the soil, 2/3 deep, and carefully watered.

They take root within a month at a temperature of +18ºС. Cyclamen from tuber cuttings bloom much earlier than from seeds.

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Pests and diseases of cyclamen

Enemies of cyclamen.

If you follow the rules for caring for cyclamen, neither insects nor viral or bacterial diseases threaten your flower, but not proper care using cyclamen at home can lead to rotting of the bulb due to chronic waterlogging of the soil or to the appearance of spider mites due to insufficient watering.

Correct your mistakes as quickly as possible and do not make them again, and then neither the cyclamen nor you will have problems with it.

Cyclamen turns yellow.

If you follow the rules for watering the plant, but the cyclamen flower still turns yellow, it means it may simply be too hot. Spray it as often as possible and, if possible, find a cooler place for it, otherwise the cyclamen flowers may begin to dry out from the heat. If the leaves begin to turn yellow after the cyclamen has bloomed, it means that it is simply preparing for a dormant period, and your concern is in vain.

Cyclamen does not bloom.

If the cyclamen receives little moisture when watering or if you do not take care of the required level of indoor air humidity, you are unlikely to see the cyclamen bloom. Cyclamen does not bloom in too warm a room, especially if it is not used to such a temperature. Sometimes, over time, the plant gets used to the high temperature in the home and, if all other conditions are met, the cyclamen eventually begins to bloom.

Cyclamen after flowering

When flowering ends, the leaves of the cyclamen gradually turn yellow, indicating that it is preparing for a period of dormancy. Yellow leaves It is better to remove, but not cut, but twist until they separate from the bulb. Watering is gradually reduced and the tuber resting in the ground is watered only occasionally, moving the plant to a shaded place until the cyclamen again shows signs of life.

Types of cyclamen

Mainly two types of cyclamen are grown in culture - Persian and European, as well as their derivatives.

European cyclamen, or alpine violet

- a tuberous plant with medium-sized leaves and fragrant pink-lilac flowers, but it has varieties of white, carmine and other colors. In culture since 1607. European cyclamen is much more tolerant of normal home temperatures than other species, but also prefers cool air to stuffiness.

This species does not have a pronounced dormant period; in addition, its tubers sometimes grow daughter bulbs that can be used for propagation. European cyclamen blooms from late spring until almost winter; it feels great in the summer on the balcony or in the garden, but under mandatory protection from sunlight and from penetration of slugs and earthworms into the pot, for which purpose the pot is covered with an ordinary nylon stocking.

Persian cyclamen, or dryweed

is more popular in culture than all other species due to the incredible beauty of its flowers, which, when they bloom, seem to turn inside out and grow with their petals downwards until the plant sheds them without any traces of wilting.

The color of the flowers is pink, dark purple, lilac, white, hot pink, and in most cases the flower throat is a different shade.

• The leaves of the Persian cyclamen are larger and more beautiful than the European ones; they are not inferior to the decorative flowers.
• Recently they have become very popular dwarf varieties Persian cyclamen, which are much better tolerated room temperature than specimens of large varieties.
• Persian cyclamen blooms from late autumn to early spring, and then comes a 9-month rest period. In culture since 1731.

In addition to these two most popular species in indoor floriculture, there are also African cyclamen, Kos cyclamen, Cyprus cyclamen, Greek cyclamen, amazing cyclamen, small-flowered cyclamen, Cilician cyclamen and other species that are found mainly in the wild.

Many beginners start cyclamen at home because it is easy to care for. It is watered abundantly, fed, groomed and cherished. But it still fades over time. In fact, it is true that caring for a plant is not difficult, the main thing is to observe some features. One of these features is watering cyclamen.

The most common mistake of beginners is that they try to water the flower as often and as much as possible. It is not right. Excess moisture leads to rotting of the tuber. Cyclamen should be watered sparingly. It is important to pay attention to the pot. For a flower, it is better to choose a container with drainage system. So that all excess moisture drains and does not injure the roots.

How to water cyclamen

There are at least two optimal watering options.

1. Using a watering can.
2. Placing a flower pot in water.

The first method is to carefully water the flower from a watering can, without touching the plant itself. That is, you need to pour water closer to the edges of the pot. This should be done infrequently, when the soil of the cyclamens is already dry.

For the second method, you need to fill a basin, bucket or any other large container with a large amount of water. Then you should let this liquid sit for at least 10 hours. After this, the pot with cyclamen is placed in this container, leaving the edges on the surface. The plant is kept in this form for only a short time; as soon as the soil on top begins to glisten with moisture, it’s time to take it out. All that remains is to let the excess water drain through the drainage holes.

Among these two options, it is difficult to choose the best one. Both cases have been tested many times. And both cases are equally good for cyclamen. Therefore, you can choose any method convenient for you. The main thing is settled and soft water.

FOR MEMORY

This is the peculiarity of care - watering cyclamen should be moderate and not too frequent. During flowering, the watering procedure is carried out as the soil becomes dry. It is important to know that it is better to underfill cyclamen than to overfill it. After all, we have already found out that excess moisture injures the tuber.

Video “Cyclamen - subtleties of cultivation”

Optimal watering frequency

The process of watering cyclamen is already clear, but the question remains - how often to water the plant? In order to answer this, it is important to understand another feature of cyclamen. The period of flowering and dormancy is atypical for ordinary plants. The fact is that in the summer, at a time when most types of flowers bloom, cyclamen, on the contrary, goes into retirement. But in winter it begins to delight its owners with bright colors and pleasant aroma.

So, let's get back to watering. The plant needs to be given water moderately, not very often, as the soil becomes dry. If the leaves of a flower begin to turn yellow gradually, one by one, they must be removed. Firstly, because it's ugly. Secondly, they do not bring any benefit. Leaves begin to fall as the plant prepares for dormancy. At this time, watering should be reduced.

But if you notice that many of the leaves and flowers of the plant are withering and drying out at once, then you should reconsider the watering regime. Most likely, you are giving the plant too much water. And this is very dangerous - it leads to death. Ideally, cyclamen should be watered in equal portions at regular intervals.

In the summer, when dormancy begins, watering must be changed, greatly reducing it. However, you can’t leave it completely without water! It is also not recommended to suddenly start abundant watering - the tuber will crack. The best option watering once every 2 weeks.

After the cyclamen flower begins to produce the first shoots after hibernation, watering should be increased. At this time, you can add a few drops of “Fitosporin” to the water so that the roots of the plant do not begin to rot.

That is, home cyclamen requires different care V different times of the year. In summer, when the flower regains its strength after flowering, it does not require much water or light. Therefore, it should be placed in a dark, dry place for several months, periodically, once every 2 weeks, taken out for watering.

During flowering, cyclamen is watered as the soil dries. The flower itself is placed in a place where there is a lot of diffused light. The main thing is that direct sunlight does not fall on the flower, otherwise it will quickly deteriorate. The more light and heat in the room in which the flower is located, the more moisture it will need.

Watering also depends on the age of the plant. Young ones need constant light watering. For adults it's the opposite. Rare, but more abundant.

Proper feeding

Any gardener wants to grow lush and bright flowers. Therefore, the question often arises - how to water cyclamens so that they bloom? The most important thing is clean and settled water. You can also add a few drops of Fitosporin to prevent the roots from rotting. And to obtain beautiful and lush flowers, solutions of mineral fertilizers are added to the soil. For example, such as “Peace”, “Ideal” and so on.

There is no need to overdo it with fertilizers; add them little by little, otherwise the plant will grow a lush head of green leaves instead of flowers. Feeding cyclamen is carried out before flowering, in the fall, and closer to winter. But after the cyclamen has bloomed, there is no need to add mineral fertilizers. In general, the size of a flower and its flowering depend not on the amount of fertilizer poured into it, but on the size of the bulb. The larger the tuber, the larger the plants will grow.

Cyclamen in a pot great option for home. In winter, this flower pleases its owners with beautiful bright blooms and a pleasant aroma. If you figure it out, caring for it is not strong work. The main thing is to take into account all its features. Proper watering- the most important part in all plant care. Because excess moisture will quickly destroy the plant, and when watering, you should not allow water to get on the plant itself and its tuber.

Pay attention to the yellow falling leaves. They can warn of improper care or signal the beginning of the dormant stage of cyclamen. During plant dormancy, watering is reduced. And as soon as the flower “wakes up” it is renewed. Fertilizers will be useful. With their help, cyclamen gains energy for brighter and more luxuriant flowering.

The Greeks called the flower dormant in summer “cyclamen”. Caring for it requires knowledge about the flower itself. It is a beautiful corm that forms an almost perfect round shape.

It is in the cyclamen tuber that the entire life of the plant is concentrated. After all, a whole 8 - 9 months. During the year, the cyclamen plant sleeps, completely getting rid of leaves and flowers.

In winter, when there are so few things around bright colors, and while most plants usually do not bloom, it is cyclamen that will delight connoisseurs of beauty. The popularity of this wonderful indoor plant It only increases every year. Many people compare cyclamen flowers with wonderful exotic butterflies that flutter over the heart-shaped dark green leaves.

The flowers of the plant are curved back, pointed. There is a huge variety of their colors: white, various shades of red and pink, purple, and there are also hybrids with beautiful double petals. The leaves are located on slender long petioles and have a decorative silver pattern.

Indoor ones bloom for quite a long time. It also depends on the variety and quality indoor conditions: the plant’s flowering can begin in the second half of October and last until the end of the month of March.

How to choose cyclamen

When purchasing, be sure to pay attention not only to the leaves of the plant, but also to the tuber itself. The leaves should not have any damage, be any degree of flaccid and at least a little dry around the edges. The round tuber must be free of any signs of rotting, and in no case should it be wrinkled in any way. for which new owners are not interested in the summer, it is best to purchase it in the fall, at the beginning of its flowering. It is desirable that the flower have great amount buds.

Cyclamen: care

Many people think that it will be quite difficult to care for cyclamen. But this is not true at all. The main thing is to know how often to water cyclamen. Subject to simple rules care, it will delight you with its lovely blooms for more than 20 years.

The most common mistake gardeners make is completely burying the round tuber of the plant. Cyclamen does not like this. It feels great when 1/3 of the tuber is free above the main surface of the soil. Cyclamens do not like large pots. They bloom poorly in them, and sometimes they rot.

Cyclamen: care during the flowering period

The main condition for care during the flowering period is an optimal, cool temperature - up to 12 - 15°C, but not lower than 10°C and in no case higher than 20°C. Despite the fact that cyclamen needs a lot of light, protect the plant from direct sunlight.

For excellent health, this plant requires regular, abundant watering, during which it is necessary to ensure that water does not in any way fall on the sprouting zone of the corm itself, flowers and leaves.

Care after the end of periodic flowering

In late spring, cyclamens usually begin a long period of dormancy. Flowers and leaves fade. Leaves that have not yet fallen are removed in the usual way. mechanically- carefully unscrew or lightly cut with scissors, trying not to touch the tuber itself. During this period, you need to significantly reduce watering the plant. And it’s enough just to prevent the earthen ball from drying out in the pot. It is also recommended to move the plant to a cool, shaded place. Remember, cyclamens really do not like dry air and high temperature. The appearance of new leaves is a sure sign that the plant has already woken up and survived the “hibernation” safely.

This plant is replanted at the end of the “sleepy” period and before flowering begins. During the next transplant, the entire earthen lump is completely replaced. Remove unnecessary rotted roots from a tired plant. 4 weeks after this procedure, you can begin to actively fertilize the soil.

We mainly have Persian cyclamens and they rest in the summer and bloom in the winter. Look at the tuber, if it’s hard, then all is not lost. Dig up the tuber, it should be 1/3 above the ground, water only in a tray and place it close to the window, it needs coolness. But no draft. If it blooms, there is no need to replant it yet. Good luck to you.

Well, first of all, replant. Shake and wash the roots and plant in new soil.

all these Dutch flowers are grown using chemicals, so they die soon after purchase

I have cyclamens in my room, on the windowsill, and they feel good. in autumn - in winter they are not watered at all, did you accidentally water it? transplant it into dry soil and place it in a room on the window, maybe it will survive. I also know that they hibernate in winter, shed their leaves, but the root itself is alive, it will sprout in the spring. You can still put it on the window, in the room.

If it has bloomed, it is now hibernating, that’s why it’s drooping, they need to create proper care during hibernation, mine didn’t wake up

maybe they watered it too often, that’s why the leaves turn yellow, water it 2 times a week on the edge of the pot so that water doesn’t get on the tuber, you don’t need to replant it, and now they’re very capricious under stress, they either underfilled or overwatered... and the temperature is not this way or that 4 a little 24 a lot

After complete completion flowering late spring Cyclamen enters a dormant period; by June the tubers remain bare. Usually, as soon as the leaves begin to turn yellow, watering is significantly reduced, but not stopped completely, watered occasionally, not allowing the earthen coma to dry out. The roots of cyclamen do not die off, but remain viable. It is better to water from a tray during the dormant period. The pot with the tuber is placed in a shaded place; it is better to remove it from the window.

After young leaves begin to appear, usually June-August, the cyclamen is transplanted into a new soil mixture consisting of leaf soil, humus, peat and sand (3:1:1:1). To avoid infection of cyclamen by pests, the earth mixture must be steamed. You can use a ready-made earthen mixture from the store for replanting; the Tulip mixture is more suitable for cyclamen. After transplantation, the cyclamen is again placed on the window.

Please note that when transplanting, you cannot completely bury the tuber. One third or even half of the tuber should be above the soil surface, which will have a beneficial effect on the further flowering of the plant. Pots for cyclamen must be selected depending on the age of the corm. Cyclamen do not like large pots; they bloom poorly in large pots and begin to rot. Therefore, it is necessary for a small corm (age 1 - 1.5 years) to choose a pot with a diameter of 7 - 8 cm, for a corm 2 - 3 years old, the diameter of the pot is 14 - 15 cm. The space of soil between the bulb and the edge of the pot should be no more than 2 - 3 cm . This is very important point in the content of cyclamen. When replanting cyclamen, remember that the lump of earth with roots under the lower part of the bulb cannot be destroyed; it is better to replant the plant along with this lump.