How to make a water supply system at your dacha with your own hands: rules for laying, installation and arrangement. Water supply from a well in winter: how to properly perform Winter water supply at the dacha

If a country house is used only for summer living, installing a summer version of the pipeline is quite justified and sufficient, but if the cottage or cottage is used all year round, you need to worry about installing a winter water supply in advance. It should be remembered that pipes are laid below the freezing point, and even better if additional insulation pipes This will keep you safe plumbing system from freezing and at very low temperatures. This option is used both from a well and from a well drilled in the yard. Let's look at how to install a winter water supply system yourself with detailed description actions and step-by-step instructions.

Summer and winter water supply options, what are the differences

These two types of plumbing are equally common in summer houses or cottages. They are convenient, practical and perform the functions assigned to them, but there are fundamental differences between these two options.

Let's consider summer option. In production summer water supply in two variations: mobile and permanent. The mobile version is easy to install and, with the onset of cold weather, can be completely dismantled, folded and stored for the next season. With the arrival of warmer weather, the water supply system is reassembled and used for needs. The permanent method is laid permanently, cannot be dismantled and requires installation at the correct angle and the use of a special drain valve. With the onset of cold weather, it is necessary to drain the water and empty the system of water to prevent freezing and damage to the system.

The winter option for placing a water supply system requires the implementation of a number of these recommendations:

  • winter option the water supply is always installed permanently;
  • pipes are placed at a sufficiently deep depth to prevent water from freezing;
  • It is necessary to insulate the system by insulating the pipes themselves or filling the trenches with slag, expanded clay or expanded polystyrene;
  • perfect option for winter water supply - use of heating cable;
  • wiring is carried out in stages.

It cannot be said that one type of plumbing is better or worse, they are simply used in different situations. Provided that you will only live in the cottage in the summer, there is no need to build a complex winter water supply system.

Winter-type water supply has a number of advantages:

  • make it on our own Any owner can do it without hired workers, this will help save money;
  • using inexpensive materials, you can make a budget option a water supply that can help out at any time of the year;
  • Maintenance and repair of the water pipeline can be carried out at any time if necessary;
  • and although expenses cannot be avoided in general, you will have to pay electrical energy, in fact, you get a more economical water supply system.

Comparing the costs when using a well, a conventional well and an artesian one, it should be noted that the artesian well implies higher costs, since it requires more powerful equipment.

Advantages of the winter method of installing water pipes

As already mentioned, to prevent pipes from freezing when using the winter option, care should be taken to ensure reliable preservation of the system. In order not to worry about the integrity of the pipes and not to drain water from the system for the winter, it is necessary to lay the system below the freezing point of the soil. It is impossible to say that it is a meter or half a meter. The depth in each region is different, the indicators depend on the minimum possible temperatures in winter. But in order to guarantee the safety of the system, the depth of the pipes must reach one and a half meters. Very important point during installation of the system, the angle of inclination of the pipes is determined. This ensures trouble-free outflow of water when the system is collapsed. The angle of inclination is made towards the water source. To install water supply in winter you need to have:

  • pump (it may be non-submersible or submersible);
  • water pipes;
  • special tap;
  • valve;
  • storage tanks;
  • hydraulic accumulator;
  • heating cable.

It is preferable to use a deep-water or deep-water pump for winter water supply. Its advantages are as follows:

  • low noise level;
  • low cost;
  • efficiency.

The type of device is selected depending on the width of the well, the characteristics of the water source, and the required power. An external pump is installed when the distance between the well and the house is very small. The hydraulic accumulator helps equalize the pressure and protects the device from water hammer, and during power surges in the network, the water collected in the container flows into the water pipes.

To keep the pressure in the pipes constant, a relay is located near the accumulator. It stabilizes the pressure in the pipes, reducing or increasing it as needed. With a significant decrease in pressure to the minimum possible values, the relay turns on the motor to pump water; at maximum values, the pump is turned off using the relay.

The drain valve should be located at the very bottom of the system and will serve to dispose of water when the system is closed.

The system can be controlled remotely. If the water source is up to eight meters deep and located near the building, another option is organized. The room is located check valve, and the liquid is evacuated from the system.

Preparatory stage

Before starting the manufacture of a plumbing system, you should develop detail drawing future system. The diagram must reflect data on pipes, pump, boiler, accumulator, filters, collectors and intake points. This is very important to ensure quality and reliable operation waterworks. Provided that the drawing is made to scale, it will be possible to calculate the material consumption. There are two types of wiring:

  • sequential;
  • collector

The sequential method is ideal for small houses with no more than two people living in them. This method involves laying pipes with sequential installation of sampling points. In this case, turning on the taps at the same time significantly reduces the water pressure.

The collector connection option involves connecting the pipe to individual fragments of the section and, as a result, the pressure does not depend on the number of connected points and remains stable.

The second option is more expensive, as it involves a larger number of pipes and components. In addition, it is much more convenient for residents.

Water will be transported to the home through pipes; any pipes can be used:

  • metal;
  • metal-plastic;
  • polymer.

But still, the use of metal ones is not entirely acceptable. Chemical processes will occur in them that negatively affect the pipes and water quality. As for metal-plastic ones, this is an ideal option, as they are durable, strong and resistant to mechanical and chemical influences.

As already mentioned, the trench is dug below the freezing point. But when using a heating cable or pipe insulation, the depth of the trenches can be reduced.

In places where the depth changes or turns, inspection wells should be dug. They are necessary to maintain the plumbing system. After the construction of such holes, pipe laying begins. Pipe connections are made using butt joints.

Laying pipes for winter water supply

Metal-plastic pipes used for laying winter water supply are preferable to metal or polyethylene. As practice shows, such pipes are not subject to corrosive processes, do not lose flexibility at low temperatures, are resistant to mechanical stress, and have a guaranteed service life of up to fifty years. The composition is not dangerous to humans or environment. The water does not lose its qualities and does not form deposits during the operation of the water supply system. The pipes are connected by thermal welding. To install a water supply system, you should stock up on the following tools:

  • adjustable wrench;
  • cutter;
  • a set of keys;
  • sharp knife;
  • roulette;
  • pen, crayons.

With little money, time and energy costs, you can improve living conditions and make them no worse than in an apartment with centralized water supply. To be able to use the plumbing system all year round, you must follow the installation rules.

It is necessary to remember that the system will be stationary and carefully consider what power the pump should have. Repair and replacement of components in winter time will be difficult, and in order not to be left without water, preparatory stages require careful planning.

Not forgetting about insulation methods, you should bury the pipe to a depth of about one and a half meters. But if the well or well is far away, you can use a combined method of laying water supply pipes. Insulation is carried out in a variety of ways accessible ways and at high-quality insulation, the depth of the ditch can be reduced to half a meter.

Installation of a deep-well pump

Before starting installation, determine the type of pump. Most often this is a deep-well pump. It works effectively even at great depths, due to this the sound is muffled by a layer of water, energy consumption is quite economical, and performance is consistently high. The brand and power of the pump are selected based on the depth of the well or well in which it will operate.

It should not be forgotten that the system should be located at an angle to the water source.

Before installation deep well pump You should carefully concentrate on the following points:

  • do the characteristics of the motor match the characteristics of the well;
  • what power is needed for operation;
  • what is the real power?

You can install the pump yourself; for this you will need the following tools:

  • pumping unit;
  • safety rope;
  • clamps;
  • hose;
  • pipes;
  • fitting;
  • valve.

When purchasing a safety rope, take into account the depth of the well, but do not go meter by meter, as you will need three to five meters more.

In order for the pump to serve for a long time without any breakdowns, you should purchase a voltage stabilizer, which will protect the equipment from surges in the network. If it is necessary to extend the cable, you should correctly connect the wires according to their colors. If there is no water in the well or if the pump is insufficiently immersed, turning on the equipment is strictly prohibited.

Equipment installation

Before installing the motor, you should examine casing pipe for irregularities, narrowing, curvature. It is important to eliminate defects, as during use they can cause damage to the equipment. It is necessary to take into account the fact that the diameter of the pipe and the pump must differ by how much - indicated in the instructions. Practical coincidence of parameters leads to premature failure of water pumping equipment.

Before immersing the pump, it is necessary to clean and pump the well, and make sure that no sand is driven in. The pump is connected after adjusting the pressure in the pressure tank. When immersing the pump, it is necessary to control the pipe, pump, safety rope and electrical cable so that there are no kinks.

When submerged, the pump must be completely submerged in the water, but the distance from the bottom of the well must be at least a meter.

Both summer and winter versions of the water supply require the use of a hydraulic accumulator. This is a reservoir filled with water. The pump turns on when it is necessary to pump up wasted water. The larger the water storage capacity, the less often the pump turns on and the longer it will work. The water container is placed in a warm room to prevent the liquid from freezing.

Installation and insulation of the entrance to the house, the final stage

The water pipe is introduced into the house. For these purposes, a hole is made in the foundation for the pipe. Since freezing of the system occurs most often in this place, it requires the closest attention. A special coupling is installed through which the pipe is passed. It should be remembered that the water supply is introduced at a sufficient distance from sewer pipes. The gap between the pipe and the coupling (and there will definitely be one due to the difference in diameter) is filled with fabric, ropes, rags and filled with polyurethane foam.

The pump is attached to a durable nylon cord that can withstand several times its own weight. When the motor is immersed more than ten meters, a spring suspension should be attached to reduce vibration; many objects, such as a first-aid tourniquet, are suitable for these purposes. The pump has a self-cooling system (water) and does not overheat, but care and maintenance are difficult to carry out, so for high-quality and long-term operation, be careful when installing the equipment.

After installation, you should check all modes of the device.

If you still have questions about how to install a winter water supply system from a well, watch the video, which describes in detail the main stages of the work.

Traditionally it is believed that a dacha is intended only for summer holiday, and with the arrival of cold weather, the house must be mothballed until spring. But as experience shows FORUMHOUSE users, many continue to go to the dacha in winter, going there on weekends. And so that a trip of 2-3 days does not turn into a continuous headache, you need to prepare in advance for operating your dacha at sub-zero temperatures.

So, from this article you will learn:

  • What features should be taken into account before starting winter operation dachas
  • Why does it need to be insulated?
  • How to heat in winter.
  • How to install a winter water supply system.

Features of winter operation of a dacha

To understand what requirements apply to the winter operation of a summer cottage, you need to understand the concept of “comfortable living conditions”. Electricity, heat and water are the three pillars comfortable life in any country cottage. The same applies to the dacha, with the exception that the house will not be used regularly, but intermittently. Those. In winter, the dacha may freeze, and upon arriving at the site, the structure will have to be quickly put into operation.

But insulating the dacha is the first step towards its winter operation. The second stage is the choice of heating the house.

Winter heating for a summer house

Quick exit heating equipment for a given temperature regime- the first requirement for the heating system country house. This is important because upon arrival at the dacha (for example, on Friday evening), the user will have neither the time, nor the energy, nor the desire to commission the heating system, split wood, or burn the stove for a long time.

Evgeniy2011 User FORUMHOUSE

I often go to the dacha in winter for weekends. I want to take a break from the city and breathe clean air. The dacha is summer, made of logs, but insulated. Of course, within a week the building freezes. I heat a room of 25 square meters. m brick heating and cooking stove. A heat exchanger is inserted into the firebox. Heating system with natural circulation non-freezing coolant, plus 3 batteries installed under the windows.

The following parameters of this cottage heating system are interesting. Depending on the outside air temperature, the heating rate is 3-5°C/hour. Comfortable temperature in the room (up to + 25 °C) is installed approximately 12-20 hours after starting the system, until the walls, ceiling and furniture heat up. You have to light the stove 1-2 times every 24 hours.

As you can see, the system has a large time inertia. Therefore, another approach to dacha system heating.

Alexander_S User FORUMHOUSE

WITH brick stove You won’t get heat right away. At my dacha ( frame house, insulated with 25 cm of glass wool) a heating system based on infrared panels, complemented by a convection stove-fireplace, was installed. On weekdays, IR heating, using a programmable thermostat, keeps the temperature in the house at + 5 °C. By Friday evening, the thermostat gives the command to raise the temperature to + 20 °C in the bedroom and + 15 °C in the living room, and upon arrival at the dacha, I light up the fireplace.

As a result of this scheme, at -15 °C outside in 1-1.5 hours it is possible to raise the temperature (by total area dachas of 55 sq. m) from + 15 °C to + 27 °C .

You can also assemble a system based on a GSM socket and a 1 kW IR ceiling heater. A few hours before arrival, we send an SMS to the GSM socket, and the house will warm up in advance before arriving at the dacha.

Note that such systems are energy dependent. In the event of a power outage, an accident at a substation, if there is no installation installed in the house, when we arrive at the dacha, we run the risk of having to deal with the consequences of the accident instead of resting.

Therefore, our users are guided by the principle: the simpler the heating system, the better.

WAAD User FORUMHOUSE

I have a dacha (frame building 90 sq.m.), where I come in winter. I set up a sauna in the house, in which I placed a 15 kW sauna stove, made of good thick steel with cast iron grates and an extended firebox, loading another 70 kg of stones on top. Moreover, in addition to its direct function, it helps me quickly warm up the house in cold weather.

It happens like this: upon arrival, the oven is lit first. While the snow is being cleared outside and other housework is being done, after 15 minutes the temperature in the sauna is already above zero, because small room warms up quickly. After 20 minutes you can rest in the room, because... It's already warm inside. Further WAAD throws more wood into the stove, accelerating the temperature in the sauna to + 45-50 °C, and turns on forced ventilation, which creates excess pressure in the sauna, forcing air into the room through the pipe.

As a result, when closed door through a special hatch on the other side, water begins to flow into the living room warm air, and the house warms up quickly.

Features of the winter water supply system for the dacha

So, we have heat, but a comfortable stay at the dacha is impossible without a reliable water supply system. We already wrote above that water left in pipes will burst them when they freeze. The water needs to be drained, and this will have to be done every winter visit to the dacha.

To make your task a little easier, you can use this trick. For example, in order not to pump water out of the toilet elbow with a syringe, and then plug the hole with a car wash sponge, which will help prevent the spread unpleasant odors from a septic tank, you can use the “old-fashioned” method. In frosts down to - 10 °C, pour a concentrated solution of table salt into the knee (salt can be dissolved in hot water).

WAAD

If there is no danger of severe frosts, it is enough to throw 2-3 tablespoons of salt into the toilet water, and such salted water will not freeze.

Go ahead. For water supply you need a water source. This could be a well, an Abyssinian or an ordinary well. We have already talked about everyone in detail. If you choose a well, you can solve the main problem of country water supply - freezing of water in the pipes.

It's done like this. A well-insulated thermos box is erected above the well (expanded polystyrene 10 cm thick can be used as insulation for the walls of the sarcophagus), which allows you to keep the heat of the water column in the well above 0 °C in any frost.

A simple way to supply winter water to your home from a well

Immediately after I bought the plot, the issue of water supply arose. The site is in a swamp and, as the neighbors said, the wells here quickly silt up. I decided, like others, to dig a well. He hired a team that dug a well and then built a house nearby. Even at the stage of the foundation of the house (concrete strip), I threw a metal-plastic pipe 3/4 from the well to the intended location toilet room at a depth of 50 cm. The pipe was wrapped in a polyvinyl chloride sponge sheath.
I decided that my water supply system should be as simple as possible, function not only in summer, but also in winter, provide water in Summer shower And watering hose on the site, as well as in the toilet cistern, shower tank and for sinks in the toilet and kitchen. ( Simple system drainage into the septic tank from the shower stall, two sinks and the toilet was also carried out in advance, before the construction of the house).
From the idea of ​​the production automatic pump I refused immediately with the expansion tank. In winter I travel frequently, and such a system is difficult to maintain when everything freezes. And the operation of an automatic pump in the house is associated with vibration and noise. And place it somewhere outside the house and do some kind of warm chamber did not want.
So I made it as simple as possible. The well contains a regular vibration pump of the Malysh type (Chinese equivalent for 800 rubles). Through flexible hose, and then through plastic pipe water from the pump enters the house or into a barrel and shower outside. In the house, the pump is controlled by a switch and, depending on which tap is open, is directed either to the shower tank, to the toilet cistern, or to the tap for filling the bucket. Controlled manually:
- if we fill the toilet, turn it off as soon as water flows from below (this can be done without getting up from the toilet);
- if there is a shower in the tank - until water appears in the control tube.
The main element of the entire water supply system is a warm bunker above the well, which allows you to retain the heat of the water column in the well and keep the temperature in the system above 0*C in any frost. The main trick is that in winter the shower tap is constantly open. This does not prevent water from pouring into the toilet or bucket because when one of the “lower consumers” is open, the water still does not flow to a 2-meter height. But the system always has air leaks from the “shower end”. And the water, when we turn off the pump, slowly flows back from the pipes into the well. (If you do not leave a tap open, the water will remain in the pipe after turning off the pump and may freeze). Thus, in the most severe frosts, there is nothing to freeze in the pipes! When I turn on the pump, the pipe fills with water from a depth of 8 meters. And it doesn’t drop below +5-+7 degrees there.
I've been using it for two winters now and am very pleased. I come to a frozen house and even if the house is -10* the toilet and water supply work!
All photos on the topic are in my album with the same name.

Winter water supply At the dacha you can do it yourself in two ways:

  • bury it so that it does not freeze (below the freezing depth);
  • lay shallow, but with insulation and/or heating.

Insulating a water pipeline is an undertaking that requires not so much money as labor - digging trenches, laying pipes, wrapping them, throwing and compacting the soil, all this takes time and considerable effort. But the result is the availability of water in the house at any time of the year.

Laying pipes below freezing depth

This method is advisable to use if in winter the soil freezes no deeper than 170 cm. A trench is dug from a well or borehole, the bottom of which is 10-20 cm below this value. Sand (10-15 cm) is added to the bottom; the pipes are laid in a protective casing (corrugated sleeve), then covered with earth.

This is the easiest way to make winter water supply at the dacha, but it is not the best, although it is the cheapest. Its main drawback is that if repairs are necessary, you will have to dig again, and to the full depth. And since it is difficult to determine the location of a leak with this method of laying a water pipeline, there will be a lot of work.

To ensure that there are as few repairs as possible, there should be as few pipe connections as possible. Ideally, there should be none at all. If the distance from the water source to the dacha is greater, make connections carefully, achieving perfect tightness. It is the joints that leak most often.

The choice of material for pipes in this case is not the most simple task. On one side there is a solid mass pressing from above, so a strong material is needed, and this is steel. But steel laid in the ground will actively corrode, especially if groundwater high. The problem can be solved by properly priming and painting the entire surface of the pipes. Moreover, it is advisable to use thick-walled ones - they will last longer.

The second option is polymer or metal-polymer pipes. They are not subject to corrosion, but they need to be protected from pressure - placed in a protective corrugated sleeve.

One more thing. The depth of soil freezing in the region is determined over the past 10 years - its average indicators are calculated. But firstly, very cold winters with little snow occur periodically, and the ground freezes deeper. Secondly, this value is the average for the region and does not take into account the conditions of the site. Perhaps it is on your piece that freezing may be greater. All this means that when laying pipes, it is still better to insulate them, lay sheets of polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene on top, as in the photo on the right, or lay them in thermal insulation, as on the left.

Pipeline insulation

When supplying water to a private house from a well and a borehole, the pipeline can be laid at a very shallow depth - 40-50 cm - this is quite enough. Just laying pipes in such a shallow trench needs to be insulated. If you want to do everything thoroughly, then lay out the bottom and sides of the trench with some kind of building material- brick or building blocks. Everything is covered with slabs on top.

If desired, you can fill in the soil and plant annuals - if necessary, the soil can be easily removed and free access to the pipeline is provided.

Insulation for water pipes

Two types of insulation can be used:

  • special energy-saving shells molded in the form of pipes, they are also called “pipe shells”;
  • roll material - ordinary insulation in the form of rolls, which is used for walls, roofing, etc.

Thermal insulation for pipes in the form of a shell is made from the following materials:


Mineral wool has glass wool and stone wool- there is one significant drawback: They are hygroscopic. By absorbing water they lose most its thermal insulating properties. After drying, they are only partially restored. And another very unpleasant moment if it’s wet mineral wool freezes, after freezing it turns into dust. To prevent this from happening, these materials require careful waterproofing. If you cannot guarantee the absence of moisture, it is better to use another material.

Heating

When planning the installation of winter water supply, you need to keep in mind that insulation only helps reduce heat loss, but cannot provide heat. And if at some point the frost turns out to be stronger, the pipe will freeze. Particularly problematic in this sense is the area where the pipe leads from the underground sewer into the house, even a heated one. Still, the soil near the foundation is often cold, and it is in this area that problems most often arise.

If you don't want to freeze your water supply, heat the pipe. For this purpose, either heating plates are used, depending on the diameter of the pipes and the required heating power. Cables can be laid lengthwise or wound in a spiral.

Method of attaching the heating cable to water pipe(the cable must not lie on the ground)

A heating cable is good for everyone, but it’s not so rare that our electricity goes out for several days. What will happen to the pipeline then? The water will freeze and may burst the pipes. A renovation work in the middle of winter - not the most pleasant experience. That’s why they combine several methods - they lay a heating cable and insulation on it. This method is also optimal from the point of view of minimizing costs: under thermal insulation, the heating cable will consume a minimum of electricity.

Another way to attach a heating cable. To reduce your electricity bills, you also need to install a heat-insulating shell on top or secure roll insulation

Laying a winter water supply system in a dacha can be done using the type of thermal insulation shown in the video (or you can take the idea and do something similar with your own hands).

Winter water supply at the dacha: new technologies in insulation

Eat interesting option, polymer flexible pipe, insulated at the factory. There is a layer of waterproofing on top of the insulation, and along the pipe there is a channel for laying a heating cable. Such pipes are called anti-freeze pipes or insulated pipes. For example, even in northern regions You can make winter water supply at your dacha over the surface using ISOPROFLEX-ARCTIC pipes.

Operating temperature - up to -40°C, operating pressure- from 1.0 to 1.6 MPa, pressure pipe diameter - from 25 mm to 110 mm. It can be laid in a channel or on the surface. They are flexible and supplied in coils of the required length, which allows us to minimize the number of joints.

Is there some more new way insulate the winter water supply at the dacha - liquid thermal insulation or thermal insulation paint. It can be applied to an already installed water supply system, which can be a good solution.