How to make paving slabs at home. Do-it-yourself paving slabs - manufacturing technology at home Tiles at home

If the owners plan to equip paths on their country plot or areas around a private city house, then they will inevitably have to make a decision about what material will do this better and more economically. Today, paving slabs of various colors and configurations have become a fairly popular coating used everywhere.

However, this material, as well as its transportation and unloading, is not cheap, especially since losses are possible during transportation, which means purchasing tiles with a reserve, and this will also be extra expenses. That’s why many homeowners are thinking about how to make paving slabs at home and save a decent amount of money.

Advantages of making tiles yourself

It is quite possible to make this material yourself. Of course, the lack of special equipment and accumulated experience will make this process quite lengthy, but it will save you from searching for an option that is suitable in design and color.

If you decide to start making paving slabs yourself, then you need to be prepared for quite labor-intensive work. However, the result obtained from it will exceed all expectations when the paths or area near the house will have exactly the appearance that the owners intended when developing the landscape design of their properties.

Advantage homemade is also the fact that you can create it yourself exclusive option tiles, which are not produced in any industrial scale, neither at all, nor anyone else.

In the process of developing your own tile version, there is always the opportunity to experiment with color scheme and even molds, since casting matrices can also be made independently.

Molds for making paving slabs

If the store did not find a tile of the required configuration, or it was found, but the price is too high, or its color does not quite suit the owners, then you can always find a way out of this situation by making matrices for its manufacture yourself. Such forms are usually prepared in quantities of several pieces, and with their help they produce as many paving slabs as will be necessary for landscaping paths and areas on the site.

paving slabs

To do this, only a few copies of finished tiles of any color are purchased, from which the molds are made. In addition to tiles, a board with a beautiful textured pattern or a stone you like with its shape can be used as an initial sample.

The matrices can be single, that is, designed for one tile, or complex, in which several products are made at once. The second option is more difficult to do, but during the production of the tiles the work will go much faster.

To make the mold you will need formwork material and, of course, a special composition for casting the matrix.

The formwork is made larger than the size of the original sample by 20÷30 mm in height and 12÷15 mm in width. It must be taken into account that paving slabs must have a thickness of at least 35÷60 mm. Suitable as formwork plywood box, cardboard box or any other material that can withstand the pouring of plastic mold composition. The matrices themselves are made from a two-component polyurethane-based compound or silicone sealant.

Polyurethane compound mold

In the assortment of construction stores you can find several types of compound specially designed for the manufacture of matrices for gypsum castings, artificial facade stone and paving slabs. One of the most popular of them is the domestic composition “Silagerm 5035”, as it has excellent technical and physical characteristics. The molding compound is made on the basis of polyurethane and is produced in two hardness parameters - 30 and 40 units. according to Shor's table. Its main indicators are shown in the table

The manufacture of a matrix from a compound is carried out as follows:

• The sample for making the matrix must be thoroughly washed and dried.
• Next, the original sample and the interior of the prepared formwork are covered with a solution consisting of white spirit and wax. This composition is applied in two layers. It can be replaced with ready-made wax lubricant.
• Then a two-component mixture is prepared. To do this, a hardener is added to the paste in a 2:1 ratio, and the mass is mixed until smooth. It is very important to maintain the proportions, since the correct hardening of the finished material will depend on them.

If a large amount of the mixture is being prepared, then the preparation process is carried out using a drill with a mixer attachment, but a small volume can be mixed with a spatula. When mixing the mass, the drill is turned on at low speed, otherwise the composition will end up with a large number of air bubbles. If the unmixed components of the compound are not completely used, then the containers with them must be tightly closed with standard lids to prevent contact with air.

• The finished mixture is carefully poured into the formwork, into which the template is placed face up. The filling composition must cover the original sample completely and the thickness of its layer above its upper part must be at least 8÷10 mm.
• Upon completion of pouring, the formwork should be moved back and forth a little, shaking slightly to rid the mixture of air bubbles. Then, the pouring should sit for 5-7 minutes - during this time, air bubbles will rise to the surface, and they can be carefully removed with a spatula.
• After 24 hours, the mixture will harden and the form can be removed from the formwork. However, it is allowed to be used for its intended purpose only 72 hours after the material has acquired all the qualities declared by the manufacturer. After this time, the mold will be able to withstand even the poured mass heated to 80÷120 degrees.
• The compound mold will last long time, if before filling with mortar for making tiles it is treated with a special composition “Tiprom 90”.

This compound is sold in buckets weighing 1.5 and 7.5 kg.

brick paving slabs

Silicone matrix

The silicone compound can also be two-component, packaged in buckets, and requiring preparation in accordance with the instructions (in general, similar to the process described above). But you can also use ordinary silicone, which is known to everyone as sealant. You need to buy as much of it as you need to make the mold, since after opening the package it immediately begins to set. Therefore, you should open the original packaging of one-component silicone after the formwork and the original sample are greased and ready for pouring. Regular grease is most often used as a lubricant.

A sample of the future tile is laid with the front side up, also lubricated with grease and filled with silicone. The thickness above the top of the source should also be 8÷10 mm.

If a tile made of gypsum is used as a sample, then it must first be treated with several layers of drying oil or varnish.

To distribute the silicone over the formwork, use a spatula or brush, which is dipped in a soap solution prepared in advance.

A thick layer of silicone takes much longer to dry than a compound - this period can be from two weeks to a month, and sometimes more. The duration of the period depends on the thickness and depth of the poured layer. Therefore, it is better to prepare the mold for the tiles in advance, for example, devoting winter time to this, so that the matrices are guaranteed to be ready for the summer, since it is better to work with the cement from which the paving slabs will be made in the warm season or at least at positive temperatures .

When the form is ready, it is removed from the formwork and washed well to remove grease. Next, you can start making tiles.

The main parameters of a standard silicone one-component sealant are given in the table:

It should be noted that if the owners have no desire to make matrices on their own, then it can be purchased at a specialized store. However, in this case, the paths on a suburban site may not differ at all from those in the neighborhood.

When choosing a ready-made matrix, you should not buy a plastic mold (unless particularly necessary, as will be discussed below). It is better to give preference to polyurethane, silicone or rubber.

Making paving slabs at home

Not every home has special equipment with which you can quickly and efficiently do it. Therefore, further we will consider methods that allow you to make it using improvised means. Of course, you cannot do without special forms, and they can be made according to the instructions presented above or purchased ready-made. Ideally, for high-quality and fast production, it would be good to have a vibrating table. However, as will be shown below, on a small scale it is quite possible to cast tiles without it.

Making square tiles using a plastic mold

Square tiles can be called traditional. It never goes out of fashion, as it gives the paths rigor and neatness. It is especially important to use this tile option to design the path leading to the house from the entrance to the site.

Illustration
	In this case, a plastic mold measuring 300x300 mm and 30 mm thick is used to make the tiles. The relief pattern of this version of the matrix is ​​called “California shagreen”. Plastic molds are convenient because they have sufficient rigidity and do not deform during laying of the solution, but it is more difficult to remove the finished product from them due to the same rigidity. To make the mold last as long as possible, and to make it easier to remove the finished tile from it, it is recommended to treat the matrix with a greasy lubricant before pouring the solution.
	To mix the mortar required for one such tile, you will need coarse sand - 3 kg.
	In addition to sand, you need to prepare cement M-500-D0 - 1 kg, ordinary tap water 0.5 liters, red color powder 70 g, and plasticizer - 25 ml.
	To mix the solution, you will need to prepare a container - it can be a plastic or enamel bucket. It is not recommended to use a galvanized container, as the dye or plasticizer can cause oxidation, as a result of which the color chosen for the tile may change.
	Sand and cement are poured into the prepared container. In this case, the master chose this mixing technology, but it will be easier to mix the mass if the dry mixture is prepared in advance - sand and cement are pre-mixed.
	So, sand and cement are thoroughly mixed using a drill with a mixer attachment.
	The next step is to mix water, dry dye and plasticizer until smooth in a separate container.
	As a result of this mixing, a red liquid should be obtained.
	The finished solution is poured into a dry cement-sand mixture.
	All ingredients are thoroughly mixed using a mixer - this process must be carried out for at least 3-5 minutes.
	After kneading, you should get a fairly thick, viscous, coarse-grained mass. It will acquire the necessary density during the process of laying it out in the mold and compacting it.
	Next, the resulting mixture is poured into a greased form. First, half of the finished mixture is laid out in the matrix.
	The mass must be distributed as evenly as possible over the shape by lifting it and shaking the matrix.
	Then the remaining mixture is laid out and first distributed using a spatula or trowel. When filling the matrix with solution, it must be carefully compacted, pressing with a trowel. Pay special attention to the corners of the form - they must be well filled.
	Next, the matrix is ​​“shaken” for a long time - this process occurs until the mass is compacted to the maximum and forms a completely flat surface. When shaken, air bubbles will emerge from the solution. It is advisable to carry out this work until the air stops escaping completely. When tiles are produced in large quantities, a special vibrating table is used to compact the fills - it greatly facilitates the work. However, if the molded products are made for only one track, then it will not be profitable to buy or make a vibrating table yourself. The mold is left to harden for 24 hours. This indicator is valid for an air temperature of +20 degrees, and may change upward in cooler weather - this will have to be determined experimentally.
	After the required period of time has passed, the matrix is ​​turned over and the tile is carefully removed from it.
	If necessary, you can press a little on some areas of the bottom of the mold to make the product come away from it more easily.
	The result is a neat, smooth tile, but it cannot be used immediately, as it must completely dry out and gain strength. To do this, the tiles are placed on edge and left for at least three days. And the final set of the required strength, with the possibility of applying a full load to the laid tiles, will end approximately two weeks after production.

Production of original paving slabs “pine cut” in polyurethane form

The original design of platforms and paths is the laying of round timber on them. However, wood absorbs moisture well and is subject to gradual rotting and damage by various insects. Concrete tiles that imitate a cut of wood will be an excellent replacement for natural material.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	This very original version of paving slabs, having a diameter of 300 mm and a thickness of 40 mm, consists of two layers made from mortars of different colors. It is somewhat more difficult to do than a single-color one, since the work will have to be carried out extremely carefully, making sure that the solutions do not mix with each other. This tile is called " pine cut", as it imitates the cut round timber of a tree trunk. The interior has beige color and the relief of the annual rings, and the outer frame repeats the pattern of roughened pine bark.
	To manufacture such products, a flexible polyurethane mold is used, which can be made independently using the technology described in the article above. Since the polyurethane matrix does not have proper rigidity, it must be installed on a perfectly flat surface. For a stand under it, a plywood sheet is usually used, which will later help to shake the solution after filling the form. Shaking a flexible matrix filled with a rather heavy solution will be extremely difficult.
	To get a core with “annual rings”, one such tile will require white cement 100÷150 g, medium sand - 300÷350 g, yellow or beige color - 50 g, plasticizer 20÷25 ml. and 200÷250 ml. water.
	Water, colorant and plasticizer are combined in one container and mixed well.
	Next, the resulting solution is poured into a mixture of white cement and sand. All ingredients are mixed well until smooth. If necessary, you can add a small amount of water.
	The result should be about 0.5 liters of the finished mixture.
	The mass is laid out in the middle of the mold, previously coated with wax lubricant. It may seem that there is too little of it, but this is a deceptive impression, since when the mixture is distributed, it will fill all the space intended for it. The mass is distributed only over the inner part of the form, which imitates the core of a round timber with annual rings. This layer should have a thickness equal to or slightly less than the height of the side separating the middle part of the “round timber” from the improvised “bark”.
	The solution should be thick enough. Therefore, it is first distributed using a spatula, gently pressing it to the bottom of the mold. The mixture cannot be diluted, since the mass that will be laid on top of it can mix with the more liquid one below, and spoil the entire intended effect of the tile.
	Since there is not much mixture in the matrix, after the initial distribution the mold is moved back and forth across the table surface and gently shaken.
	Next, the mass is again distributed with a spatula, and it is pressed tightly onto the mold.
	After this, the matrix with the mixture is shaken again until the mass fills all the space allocated for it. The result should be an even, smooth pancake when viewed from above.
	The next step is to prepare a solution for filling the frame of the round timber core with “bark”. For the mixture intended to form this layer, and the entire main part of the tile, you need to prepare gray cement M-500-D0 - 1 kg, water 0.5 l, plasticizer - 35 g, brown color 60÷70 g, sand coarse fraction 3.5÷4 kg.
	Sand and cement are mixed well with a mixer. Then, a solution is prepared separately from water, dye and plasticizer.
	Half of the solution is added to the mixture and mixed with the same mixer. During mixing, part or all of the remaining solution is added. The mass should be quite thick and crumbly.
	Using a trowel, the mixture is laid out in the matrix. First, the edges of the form are filled with it, which will imitate the bark of a tree.
	Then, the mixture is laid out over the entire surface of the container. When the entire composition is laid out, it forms a slide, which must be carefully distributed with a trowel. The form needs to be shaken a little. Since it is quite plastic, a sheet of plywood laid under it will come to the rescue; one of its edges is lifted and shaken, that is, vibrating movements are made.
	Then, the mixture is compacted again with a trowel, continuing to distribute it.
	The mold filled with the mixture continues to be subjected to vibration until its surface of the solution becomes even and smooth. It should fill the entire relief pattern on the side walls of the matrix. The finished mixture is left in the mold for a day to harden.
	After 24 hours, the matrix is ​​carefully turned over.
	Then, the mold is carefully removed from the tile. A polyurethane or silicone matrix has an advantage over a plastic one in that it is much easier to remove it from the finished product, and the risk of damaging it is not so high.
	The finished tile must completely dry and gain strength; this will require at least 2-3 days. When drying, the product will acquire a lighter shade, so if you want to get a rich color, you can add more color. However, it must be taken into account that too much dye makes the solution less durable.
	If you decide to make a mold for such tiles yourself, then as a basis you need to take natural round timber from any wood you like in terms of texture, with a well-defined structure of coarsened bark. Before pouring silicone or compound during the manufacturing process of the matrix, it is necessary to process the sample, deepening the textured pattern, otherwise the desired effect may not be achieved. Pay attention to the groove between the bark and the wood itself - it also needs to be deepened - as a result, a small edge will appear on the matrix, which helps to carry out high-quality layer-by-layer filling. After laying the tiles, this thin gap will quickly fill with soil and become invisible. You can carefully fill it yourself with a grout or regular cement composition.

Paving slabs made “on site” using a stencil

Another affordable way To arrange garden paths is to fill them with concrete mortar using a polypropylene stencil. With the help of this convenient device, it is quite possible to quickly improve not only narrow paths, but also entire areas.

This instruction can help you figure out how to properly prepare the space for paths and how to use a stencil. In addition, attention will be paid to how the concrete surface can be decorated.

cobweb paving slabs

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	For such work, you will need to prepare the following tools: - building level; - large and small spatula; - Master OK; - bayonet and shovel; - pump sprayer; - a container for mixing the solution or a concrete mixer, - a wheelbarrow is desirable to deliver the mixture to the pouring site. After familiarization with the work process, each master can add tools to the list that are convenient for him, or remove unnecessary ones from the presented list.
	Materials you need to prepare: - plastic mold for tiles; - cement M-500; - coarse sand; - dye, if you plan to make the tile multi-colored; - black polyethylene for laying on the ground; - slag or fine crushed stone. At the same time, it must be taken into account that from one 50 kg bag of cement you can get 6 ÷ 7 slabs measuring 600 × 600 mm and 60 mm thick. This list can be supplemented with curbs, since on an unfenced area the path will not last long - the edges will begin to collapse.
	A few words need to be said about the stencil itself. The design of the form is well thought out - its side walls are wider than the middle ones that separate the tiles. Thanks to this arrangement, after concrete is poured into it and it gains strength, not individual stones are formed, but a solid slab, separated by gaps in the upper part by only ⅔ of the total thickness. Besides? the form should have two technological holes in which handles are attached, which will help you easily remove the stencil from the set concrete.
	In order for the path to serve for a long time and not be overgrown with grass, it is necessary to prepare a place for filling it. To do this, first of all, the fertile layer of soil is removed from the marked area, approximately 100–120 mm deep. Then, the soil is compacted, and it is advisable to lay a black plastic film on top of it, which will prevent the sprouting grass from breaking through. Next, there is a layer of cement-gravel, cement-sand mixture, just sand or slag 50 mm thick. Some save on bedding and make it only 30 mm thick, but this will not be enough. If you do it conscientiously, then 50 mm is the optimal thickness. This layer is moistened and compacted again.
	If a narrow path is being laid, it is recommended to immediately install curbs. If you plan to fence the path curb stones, then they can be installed after the formation of the track.
	Next, a stencil processed from the inside is placed on the prepared area. machine oil using a brush. In order to save mortar, as well as increase the strength of the created slab and its unique reinforcement, coarse crushed stone can be laid in the internal space of the mold.
	The next step is to mix the cement mortar. It can be made in a concrete mixer or in a container of suitable size. The concrete mixture should be made as follows: for 1 kg of cement and 3 kg of coarse sand, 35 g. plasticizer and, if desired, a dye is added.
	If 5-6 forms are poured at once, then it is better, of course, to prepare the solution in a concrete mixer. In this case, it is mixed in the following proportions: for 50 kg of cement you need to prepare 250 grams. plasticizer-accelerator, 9 buckets of fine crushed stone, 6 buckets of clean river sand. Add enough water to achieve the desired consistency of the mixture. A concrete mixer designed for 0.3 cubic meters can handle this volume of solution. m. To adjust the composition for a smaller concrete mixer, you need to proportionally reduce the component composition. If colored tiles are being made, then it is permissible to add color in an amount of 2 to 8% of the amount of cement, depending on how light or dark the paving is supposed to be.
	The prepared form is filled with the prepared solution. It is very important that the mixture completely fills the entire stencil space. Particular attention must be paid to filling the corners.
	The solution is spread with a trowel. Thanks to its pointed blade, it will be easy to place the mass in the corners under the stencil bridges. It is better to add more mixture than required than not to add it, since the excess can be easily removed with a trowel.
	The solution is leveled along the upper bridges of the stencil using a wide spatula. Excess mixture is removed with a trowel. It is recommended to level the surfaces of future tiles to perfect smoothness, since their wear resistance and durability will depend on this.
	After waiting 20-30 minutes for the solution to set, the stencil is removed from the tile by grasping the handles screwed into the technological holes. This must be done extremely carefully and strictly vertically, since the concrete has not yet hardened completely, and there is a high probability of damaging one of the corners of the tile if you move awkwardly.
	The result should look like this concrete slab.
	The form removed from the previous slab is placed next to it, maintaining a gap of approximately 10 mm. Then, the stencil is checked with a building level for evenness, and, if necessary, sand bedding or a support made of flat stone or ceramic tiles is made in one or two corners.
	Next, the process is repeated, that is, crushed stone is placed in the form, then it is filled with a solution, which is leveled, and so on, until the entire planned path (site) is closed.
	If the path is framed by borders already installed along it, then after the coating is completely ready, the gaps between the slabs and borders are also filled with mortar. In addition, the gaps formed between the tiles can also be filled with concrete mortar, covered with sand or soil with special seeds lawn grass, which rises only 30÷50 mm.
	The spaces between the slabs can also be left empty. However, it must be taken into account that over time they will become clogged with soil, which may contain weed seeds, which can subsequently clog the entire path and even contribute to the destruction of the slabs.
	If desired, during the manufacturing process of such a coating it can be decorated with broken ceramic tiles. It is pressed into the solution that has just been poured into the stencil, and then the surface is leveled again with a spatula.
	If you want to add some color to your garden plot, you can make the tiles multi-colored by filling the cells of the stencil with solutions to which different colors have been added. This process will take more time and effort, but a site with such interesting paths will always lift your spirits. Using several dyes, it is advisable to prepare two or three forms for filling. This way the work will be more efficient, since a solution of the same color can be used to fill areas in several stencils at once.

When starting work on arranging paths in this way, you must definitely ask about the weather forecast for the coming days, otherwise all the work may go down the drain if it suddenly rains heavily on the first night after the formation of the paths.

The stencil will greatly facilitate the work of arranging the site. Although this form is quite expensive, having only two or three similar matrices, you can quickly lay paths and improve the areas of the entire territory without the involvement of third-party craftsmen.

Another important point. When purchasing ready-made tiles, you should remember that laying them correctly is not so easy. Therefore, if you can’t do the paving yourself, you will have to invite specialists and pay them for the work an amount that will be at least equal to the cost of the tiles themselves.

The stencil will not allow you to make serious mistakes. Even without any experience in this field, any site owner will be able to independently make high-quality, neat surfaces. Of course, if all technological recommendations are followed, increased care is shown, and the novice master himself mobilizes all his abilities and skills.

Video: the work of a master - making paving slabs to look like natural wood

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Paving slabs are an element of decorative design of residential areas. IN Lately it has become a real calling card of local areas.

Paving slabs, just like paving stones, differ relatively low cost, and if the hard road surface is made by hand, then total costs on Consumables are significantly reduced. How to make paving slabs at home? Before you start making paving slabs at home, you need to familiarize yourself with the theoretical aspect of the issue.

Production of paving slabs at home: manufacturing principles

In industrial conditions, the process of producing paving slabs is put on stream. In a short time, huge quantities of tiles and paving stones leave the plant. When making paving slabs at home production principles somewhat change. The basic technological algorithm remains unchanged, only the volume of produced material and its type are adjusted. High-quality work will allow you to achieve paving slabs that will be little inferior to the factory model.

Manufacturing technology DIY paving slabs are based on two directions: vibration casting method and vibration pressing method. Both can be used at home with special equipment. You can build individual devices with your own hands.

Undried tile material contains a small amount of liquid. In both production methods, the wet concrete mass is exposed to a vibration wave to eliminate accumulated air bubbles. When vibrocasting, the solution acquires a more liquid consistency, so it is served in flexible forms. There it is kept until the initial drying. The second method, as its name suggests, involves applying pressure to form tile segments in a matrix. For this, a special vibration platform is used. After such mechanical influences, the workpieces are removed and placed to dry.

Necessary equipment and materials

Since the tiles are made of concrete, the first thing you need to do is purchase concrete mixer. It is better if it is a forced-action concrete mixer that functions like a mixer. You can’t do without a vibrating table, molds for casting and lubrication, concrete mix, metal rods for reinforcement, drying racks finished products.

Drying in one layer under a canopy requires a large free space. Completed forms must not be stacked on top of each other. The products are placed on shelves so that there is a gap of at least 20 cm between them.

In construction hypermarkets you can purchase molds for casting of any size and various configurations. There are forms from:

• rubber (the most durable);
• plastics;
• polyurethane.

The assortment is very wide, the manufacturer produces them according to individual orders, be it forms with drawings, textured surface or mold for glossy paving slabs.

Lubricant is needed to carry out problem-free stripping of workpieces after the concrete has hardened. It can be purchased ready-made or made with your own hands. simplest lubricant recipe: 100 g of mineral oil is mixed with three liters of water until an emulsion is formed.

The main thing: it is necessary to achieve the required level of fat content, otherwise the lubricant can give the finished tiles an unpresentable appearance.

How to prepare a solution for paving slabs?

Making mortar for hard road surfaces – key moment the entire technological process. The solution consists of:

• hard crushed stone of non-metallic rock 2-10 mm or granite screenings or gravel;
• purified washed sand;
• Portland cement;
• concrete plasticizer;
• dry dyes;
• water.

The composition of the mortar for paving slabs varies depending on the properties finished product are of interest to the consumer.

There is nothing complicated in preparing a mixture for paving slabs or paving stones, but careful preparation of the components and methodical adherence to all stages are required. The amount of each ingredient is easily calculated when the required proportions of the volume of substances are known.

First of all, prepare additional components– plasticizer and concrete dye. The latter is used for the production of colored paving slabs. When making products of the usual gray color, there is no need for it.

The plasticizer, as a rule, makes up no more than a percentage of the total amount of all parts of the mixture. To mix 80 liters of concrete you need 400 g of plasticizer. It should be noted that it is not added dry. In small portions, 400 g of plasticizer is poured into 2 liters of water heated to 70 degrees.

The dye accounts for approximately 2% of all components polymer mixture. Approximately 700 g of dye is added to water (2.5 l), heated to 50 degrees, and stirred thoroughly.

The inner walls of the concrete mixer must be moistened. For this purpose, the device is rinsed from the inside, then the water is drained. Ratio coefficient cement mixture and liquid determines how strong the concrete product will be.

To make high-quality paving slabs, the concrete being mixed must be half wet. This effect is achieved by adding 25% less water than cement. An illustrative example: for six buckets of cement (this includes plasticizer and dye) you need four buckets of water.

First, water is poured into the concrete mixer, after which a portion of cement is added. As a result stirring You should get a homogeneous emulsion. After adding screenings to the resulting emulsion, a solution is obtained that must be thoroughly mixed. Next, you should pour in the pre-diluted plasticizer and dye. The polymer composition is kneaded until a homogeneous mass is obtained.

You can make a mixture for paving slabs using manual stirring, but this method requires good physical preparation and additional time.

Molds for making paving slabs

An important role in the manufacture of paving slabs is played by the molds for the production of such a building product. The most common among them are plastic, rubber, and polyurethane. Each type has its own characteristics and technical characteristics. Thus, molds made of rubber can withstand about five hundred production cycles. Rubber molds are not steamed and do not require any additional equipment.

Often when paving paths they use paving stones, in which relief surface. In such cases, it is advisable to use polyurethane forms. The mortar in them quickly sets, and the finished elements are easily removed. Polyurethane synthetic fibers, being high-strength, practically do not allow the appearance of defective products. Forms made from this modern structural material can withstand about a hundred cycles without any complaints. How to make molds for tiles with your own hands?

Instructions for making a mold for paving slabs with your own hands:

• To make plastic molds, a special frame is prepared. The internal dimensions of the wooden frame must correspond to the dimensions of the tiles. The plastic is melted and poured into the structure. After the plastic has hardened (approximately 40–60 minutes), the finished mold is removed. The uneven edges of the resulting product are processed using sandpaper.
• If pouring silicone is used to make molds, then a pre-prepared container matrix is ​​required. It can be made from any durable material. The seams are sealed with sealant. Screws are used to fasten the walls of the container. The frame is cleaned and degreased. The silicone ingredients are mixed in the required ratio: base, hardener, catalyst. Sculptural plasticine is placed in a thick layer into the matrix. A model is placed on top of the plastic material, which is used to take an impression. Before this, it is lubricated with sunflower oil. Next, silicone is poured in in a thin stream. After 24 hours, the materials will harden and the finished forms will be removed from the container. Small defects and irregularities are removed using scissors.
• You can make a wooden mold without a bottom using bars. From cooked wooden planks, fastened metal corners, a rectangular, square or hexagonal molding structure can be obtained.

Why do you need a vibrating table?

The procedure for manufacturing paving slabs involves the use of an equipped vibrating table. Beginners in this business are strongly recommended to use vibrating table, since it is unlikely that without its use it is possible to obtain high-quality paving slabs or paving stones. This is explained by the fact that even the most plastic material is not able to tightly fill the mold without the formation of air voids.

Not everyone can afford expensive equipment, so you can make a vibration table yourself. You will need an unnecessary electric motor in working order and two thick plywood sheets. The engine is attached to these sheets of plywood on two opposite sides. A metal disk is attached to the rotating motor shaft, which creates vibration when the mechanism is turned on. Homemade design placed on car tires.

The forms filled with cement composition are laid out on a vibrating table, which is turned on for 15-20 seconds. This time is enough for the solution to thicken and air cavities to disappear from it. Elimination of air space and compaction of the mixture significantly improves strength future paving slabs. A finished paving element that has not been compacted by vibration will soon collapse. Such tiles are used only as a temporary path. This fact must be taken into account when the question is how to make a tiled paving so that it lasts for many years.

How to properly reinforce paving slabs?

Increases the strength of the pavement covering tile reinforcement metal elements. They use both construction reinforcing mesh, hot-rolled wire, and pieces of ordinary reinforcement. Metal pieces are covered unpainted cement mortar, compact and smooth the surface.

With the described technology for the production of paving slabs, the front side is placed at the bottom of the mold. This circumstance creates difficulties: it is impossible to monitor the design, color and condition of the front side.

To be able to control everything, it is necessary to lay the cement mixture and reinforcement in the reverse order. This will allow you to accurately apply the pattern to the tile, deepening each piece to the desired level.

If desired, perform ironing of the workpiece. Thanks to this procedure, the product acquires special strength, and its surface becomes more even and smooth. Dry cement is poured onto the damp surface and smoothed with a spatula. You can also rub in a small amount of cement with a brush.

Drying and stripping

The forms with the solution are placed on racks for further drying. It lasts approximately 2-4 days. The place for drying products is chosen so that it does not receive direct sunlight, there should be good ventilation. To reduce the rate of moisture evaporation from the cement composition, the forms are covered with a polyethylene film.

If the forms were made with your own hands from wooden planks, then the fastener is removed at some joint, after which the frame is moved apart and the tile is removed. The tiles are laid in one layer and dried for ten days in a ventilated area to become more durable.

To release the tile from the polyurethane mold, it is lowered into a bath of water heated to 70 degrees. The polymer will soften and the tile can be easily removed from the mold. The product is dried in a cool place. After ten days, the paving elements are ready for use.

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Paths in a personal or garden plot, paved with paving slabs, are functional and aesthetic. Pavers are strong, durable, easy to maintain and attractive. But the cost of such coverage, if we are talking about purchasing several dozen square meters tiles are significant. Therefore, craftsmen, in order to save money, using technologies available for home conditions, have been successfully making paving slabs with their own hands for several years.

The quality of paving slabs depends on adherence to technology and the correct recipe

Technology selection

There are two ways to produce paving slabs:

• vibration pressing;
• vibration casting.

The first method for producing tiles at home is not suitable by definition - there is nothing with which to press. And making high-quality paving stones with your own hands using the vibration casting method is quite possible.

Manufacturers offer the following types of molds for the production of paving stones:

• polyurethane – allow you to make up to 100 molding revolutions;
• made of plastic – up to 250 rpm;
• made of plastic rubber - more than 500 cycles.

The price of products depends on the number of molding cycles, so the high cost of rubber and plastic molds suggests their use in the production of large volumes of tiles, and polyurethane products are quite affordable for the average buyer. By purchasing 5 molds, you can make 500 pieces of paving slabs with your own hands, and with careful handling you can make even more.

Molds for casting tiles

Molding templates for making paving stones

For casting paving slabs “on site”, template molds are used in the form of a frame of partitions, reminiscent of a honeycomb irregular shape, which you can buy or make yourself. Having laid such a frame on a properly prepared base, the honeycombs are filled with concrete. After a few hours, the template is removed, and instead of honeycombs, ready-made flat concrete fragments remain on the base, between which only the seams need to be arranged.

In addition, if you plan to lay paving stones, for example, on auxiliary paths in a garden plot, and the requirements for it are not high, then you can make molds for casting such tiles yourself.

To make paving stones, first of all you need to stock up on special molds for casting

Self-production of casting molds

DIY paving slabs.
The universal format of paving slabs is a square with a side of 30 cm. This size provides the necessary strength when working in bending and is convenient for cutting the product in half or into 4 parts when you need to adjust the material. Therefore, from smoothly planed wooden blocks with a cross-section of 60 x 30 mm, you need to make a frame with your own hands internal dimensions 30 x 30 cm and 60 mm deep. It is better to assemble the frame using self-tapping screws, which later, when removing the frozen product, will be easy to unscrew and then return to its place.

To form a pattern on the front side of future paving slabs, choose an elastic base with a corrugated surface, for example, rubber mat with a large pattern, and place the mold frame on it.

Before forming the sides, the frames and the shaped base are lubricated with a brush. thin layer kitchen dishwashing gel.

To ensure that the process of making tiles with your own hands does not drag on for months or years, you need to make at least 10 molds.

Making paving slabs with your own hands is a rather labor-intensive process.

As forms for small-format paving slabs, you can use disposable plastic containers for packaging various products, filling them with a solution to a fixed depth. The turnover of such “forms” is 5-10 cycles, but this is compensated by the insignificant cost of used boxes.

Technology for manufacturing paving slabs using vibration casting method

This method consists of pouring cement-based mortar into special forms with simultaneous or subsequent compaction of the contents by vibration.

Vibration casting can be produced using single-layer and two-layer technology.

Single layer method

Single-layer technology consists of filling the molds with a solution, compacting them on a vibrating table, followed by keeping the products in the molds for two days and removing the formwork. The strength and aesthetics of such tiles are lower than those of two-layer paving stones made by vibration casting, so they are used for paving utility areas that do not require high aesthetics.

Making vibropressed paving slabs is easier than making vibrocast ones

Double-layer vibration casting

When pouring in two layers, a solution with a coloring pigment is poured into the molds in a layer of 1-2 cm while simultaneously vibrating. On top of the colored solution, without waiting for the front layer to set, the composition of the base layer without dye is poured flush with the edges of the molds and subjected to vibration for 15-30 seconds. After 2 days, the products are removed from the molds and stored for drying in a cool place.

Regardless of the number of layers, the forms filled with mortar are covered with plastic film to prevent premature evaporation of moisture and partial loss of strength of the paving stones.

The purpose of the facing layer is to increase the strength characteristics and aesthetics of paving slabs. This layer is a durable shell with a glossy surface, painted in the selected color by adding a dye to the solution. If instead of gray cement M500 you use white cement of the same brand, then colored front layer can be made saturated, without a gray tint.

Making your own mortar for paving stones is an economical option.

Components of face concrete

To make the front layer durable, uniform and glossy, the solution must include the following materials:

• cement M500 (preferably white);
• crushed stone (granite, marble, gravel) fraction 5-10 mm;
• sifted sand in the ratio;
• water;
• color;
• dispersant.

Concrete recipe for forming the face layer

When mixing the front layer, the weight ratio of the amount of cement and AHP is 1:2.

Using the example of a specific operation, we will consider the procedure for mixing the face layer solution in a concrete mixer. 10 liters of water are poured into the mixer, to which dye is first added in the case of the production of colored paving stones. Then 750 grams of an aqueous dispersant solution are poured into it, the concrete mixer is turned on and 3 buckets of ACHPS and Portland cement M500 are poured in succession. After mixing for a minute, 3 more buckets of screenings are added to the concrete mixer.

Concrete is mixed in a concrete mixer in a certain sequence

Mixing is carried out for 15-20 minutes until the solution acquires a homogeneous consistency of thick sour cream, after which the mass is transferred from the concrete mixer to the tub, and molding can be done.

The amount of color in the solution should be no more than 5% of the batch volume. The proportion used must be remembered in case you need to make additional batches.

Forming the face layer of tiles in a mold

After lubricating the inner surface of the molds, the prepared solution is spread into them in a layer of 1-2 cm and compacted by vibration. In the absence of a vibrating table, you can get by by installing the molded products on a sheet of iron and tapping them from below with a rubber mallet. Particularly savvy craftsmen use a washing machine to vibrate, onto which molds are placed while the centrifuge is running in spin mode.

The main difference between paving stones and paving slabs is their shape

Base layer solution components

In the formulation of the solution forming the main layer, the dispersant is replaced by a plasticizer. In the process of preparing the solution, one part of M500 cement is mixed with three parts of crushed stone-sand mixture. The plasticizer is added in the same amount as the dispersant to the front layer.

How to mix concrete to pour the base layer

Let's consider the technology for producing a specific portion of the solution using a concrete mixer.

750 grams of an aqueous solution of plasticizer are stirred in 12 liters of water, after which 5 buckets of AHP and 3 buckets of Portland cement M500 are sequentially poured into a running mixer with liquid, after which another 3-4 buckets of screenings are added. There is no need to color the base material of paving slabs. The concrete is mixed for about a quarter of an hour and, upon reaching the consistency of sour cream, is discharged into the tub.

To mix concrete per 1 square meter at home. paving stones 6 cm thick, you will need:

• Crushed stone-sand mixture – 90 kg;
• Cement M500 – 25 kg;
• Dispersant – 120 grams;
• Plasticizer – 100 grams;
• Dye – 600-800 grams.

Reinforcement of paving stones and pouring the base layer

To increase the strength of the tiles, you can reinforce the product yourself. An ideal fit for reinforcement is a “cut-out” (expanded steel sheet) cut to size, made from a steel sheet 1 or 2 mm thick. The grooved pieces are laid on top of the mortar of the tile face and covered with concrete flush with the edges of the forms. Reinforcement of products at home can also be done using pieces of thick wire or smooth rolled reinforcement placed crosswise, or steel mesh.

To ensure the solidity of the tile, the filling of the second layer is carried out no later than 20 minutes after the formation of the first.

After compacting the solution by vibrating, the molds are laid on a horizontal surface in a cool place for two days until the concrete hardens.

Modern paving slabs are suitable for arranging urban or suburban courtyards

Stripping molds and removing tiles

If the mold is made with your own hands from wooden blocks, then the fastening screws are unscrewed at one of the joints, after which the frame is moved apart and the product is released. The paving stones are given another 10 days to gain strength and dry, laying the tiles in one layer in a cool room.

If polyurethane molds were used to produce the tiles, then the mold with the product is placed in a bath of warm (60 degrees) water for a couple of minutes to soften the polymer, after which the tile is removed and also placed in a cool place for 10 days until it is finally ready for use.

Considering that the tile must be in the mold for two days, you can, having 10 molds at your disposal, daily remove 5 finished products and make 5 further molds.

Paving slabs have become perhaps the only acceptable option for creating pedestrian paths in suburban areas, pedestrian paths in parks, sidewalks, and barbecue areas. It is indeed more durable than concrete and wood, more practical than gravel and safer than asphalt, but despite its diversity modern tiles, making your site original is becoming increasingly difficult. And prices for complex figured products are often steep. But there is a way out - you can make paving slabs with your own hands at home.

Advantages and disadvantages of homemade tiles

Those who have not yet decided to create homemade tiles are frightened by two considerations: a significant investment of time and doubts about the quality of the finished products. But if you take into account the possibility of stage-by-stage production, which allows you to engage in production on weekends or in your free time, the process turns out to be not so long. In addition, the costs of materials will also stretch over time, because allocating family budget 10% over 3-4 months is much easier than spending half of your monthly income at once.

As for quality, it is enough to adhere to technology and not try to save much, then the finished tile will serve for decades.

The combination of gray and beige tiles (made of white cement) looks stylish and helps save on pigments

Table: comparing the advantages and disadvantages of handicraft paving slabs

As you can see, for every disadvantage of homemade tiles, you can find a corresponding advantage. Therefore, if you want to proudly show off your handiwork to your guests, you can safely begin implementing your planned path design.

Existing manufacturing technologies

The tiles and paving stones that you might have seen among your neighbors are made using only three technologies: pouring into formwork, vibration casting and vibration pressing.

Driveway with imitation paving slabs using stamping method

There is also a technique for simulating paving slabs, when the texture is created with stamps on wet concrete surface. At first glance, the path may look like it is paved, but in fact it is a monolithic concrete slab with all its shortcomings. Taking a closer look at the seams, it is easy to notice that they are inseparable from the slabs and are not capable of draining water into the ground. Therefore, if you liked the imitation version you saw in the photo, we recommend reproducing it using classical technology, from separate slabs. In this case, your copy will last 3-4 times longer than the original.

Pouring into removable formwork

Production of paving slabs by pouring into formwork

The technology of pouring into formwork is the simplest and least labor-intensive way to produce paving slabs. The products are cast directly at the site of use on top of compacted soil, so there is no need to spend any effort on drying and moving the slabs. Since the form is removed while the concrete has not completely hardened, you can use only one form and prepare small portions of the solution in a bucket with a construction mixer (without a concrete mixer). The form can also be filled in part, forming neat curves of the garden path.

But there are also disadvantages:

• the texture of the front surface of the slabs is always the same, since the shape is open and defines only the edge along the perimeter of each fragment;
• the concrete mixture cannot be compacted by vibration, so more plasticizer should be added to ensure strength;
• Despite the addition of binders, the service life of such tiles is several times less than that of vibrocast tiles.

It is quite easy to distinguish a path from such tiles. As a rule, it imitates the layout of a wild stone with irregularly shaped fragments, but the repetition of the pattern is easy to notice. Grass often grows in the seams of such tiles, since they are installed directly on the ground without a sand and gravel cushion and often without backfilling the seams.

Vibrocasting

Vibro-cast paving slabs are the most common option

Vibro-cast slabs are the most common option for paving private areas. The easiest way to distinguish a product of this technology is by design. Neither pouring nor vibration pressing creates a complex tile shape or a fine textured pattern on its surface. The front side of vibro-cast tiles is usually more glossy, and the color is brighter than that of vibro-pressed tiles.

Other advantages of this finishing material include:

• the service life of the tile is several times longer, since vibration during casting expels air bubbles and increases the water and frost resistance of the product;
• lower consumption of plasticizer (compared to pouring into formwork);
• possibility of producing durable quality tiles at home with minimal equipment;
• a wide variety of ready-made forms from different price categories.

The only disadvantage we can highlight is the small thickness of the slab, which does not allow the finish to withstand high mechanical loads. Smooth tiles also increase the risk of slipping, so we recommend that you select textured shapes for manufacturing.

Vibration pressing

The paving stones in the parking area are vibropressed paving slabs

Vibration pressing - complex technological process. Its main difference from vibration casting is that the solution in the mold is subjected to powerful impacts from a special press. As a result, the density of the concrete-cement mixture increases by an order of magnitude; in its properties, the material is analogous to artificial stone. Therefore, it is used for paving city sidewalks, paths in parks and parking areas in private areas. Due to its high density, the tiles are very frost-resistant; they can withstand up to 300 freeze/thaw cycles.

The method is most often used to produce paving stones rather than tiles. It is easy to distinguish by its increased thickness and small size (it looks more like a brick than a tile). In addition, such material is usually rougher and its color is paler. Since it is impossible to make a pattern on a separate fragment, to enhance the decorative effect, the paving stones are laid in beautiful patterns (you can use a cross-stitch pattern at home).

Among the disadvantages of vibration-pressed tiles, one can highlight only the high price and considerable weight, which complicates transportation and installation.

Making paving slabs at home

Having compared the advantages and disadvantages of paving slabs made using different technologies, it is not difficult to come to the conclusion of making vibration-cast products at home. All that remains is to decide on the equipment and necessary materials.

Even with homemade equipment, you can cast good tiles from improvised materials.

What is needed for work

As a rule, owners of country houses have at least some construction experience, and many even build their home from the first foundation stone to the ridge on the roof. Therefore some necessary tools and you probably have minimal skills to work with them.

Table: equipment for vibratory casting of paving slabs

How to make a vibrating table yourself

Pouring slabs without vibration reduces the durability of the product by an order of magnitude, although this is not noticeable in appearance at first. Adding an additional volume of plasticizer to the solution slightly improves the situation, but experienced craftsmen still advise using at least a makeshift vibrating table.

Diagram of a simple vibrating table

As can be seen from the diagram, the main difference between a vibrating table and a regular one is that the tabletop is attached to the base not rigidly, but through springs. This allows you to create the necessary vibration and at the same time ensure a stable horizontal position of the tile. If you have an unwanted kitchen table with a metal frame, it could very well become the basis for the necessary equipment. All that remains is to attach the tabletop through the springs and fix the motor from an old washing machine under it.

If you are determined to make a fully functional analogue of an industrial vibrating table, you should start with a drawing.

Detailed drawing of a vibrating table indicating exact dimensions

In the found drawing you can change:

• height of the legs (the main thing is that there is enough material and it is comfortable for you to use);
• proportions and size of the tabletop (it is desirable that all forms of one batch fit on the table);
• the number of springs (if it seems to you that the available springs are weak, you can add more to the four in the corners along the middle line of the long sides).

If you wish, you can reproduce this drawing exactly, or find a more suitable one on the Internet.

To implement the project you will need the following tools and materials:

• welding machine ( wooden base will not be suitable for the product, and the fastening of the frame with bolts will quickly become loose due to vibration, so welding is indispensable);
• grinder for cutting metal with appropriate discs (it is better to buy consumables with a reserve);
• drill for drilling mounting holes with a sharp drill bit;
• electric motor (for the production of a small batch, a single-phase motor with a power of 700 W will be enough);
• a sheet of metal for a tabletop with a thickness of 6 mm or more (you can get by with a thinner sheet, but it will need to be reinforced with rods or mesh and welded to the frame from a corner);
• metal corner (to determine the amount of material, add 4 table lengths and 4 widths);
• pipes of suitable length for table legs;
• sections of pipes with a diameter 2–4 mm larger than the diameter of the springs (needed to build glasses);
• 4 springs measuring 120x60 mm (used valve springs from a truck engine, which are often thrown away at service stations, are suitable)

The correct spring for a vibrating table sags by 50% under the weight of the tile.

If you can place the vibration table indoors, it is worth attaching it to the floor. There is no need to weld; long hardware secured with self-tightening locknuts will suffice (they only secure it more firmly against vibration).

This model of electronic potentiometer is suitable for operation in a standard 220 Volt power supply.

To create the ideal vibration, you may need to adjust the motor speed. Therefore, when making a vibration table, do not skimp on the electronic potentiometer. He will help you adjust the device for optimal compaction of the tiles.

Let's get started:

1. Weld the frame of the vibrating table following the proposed diagram. Be sure to check the correct angles and placement of the cups under the springs, so that later the tiles lie strictly horizontally and do not “jump” off the table when working.

   An angle clamp is the best device for properly welding right angles

2. Cut the sheet of metal to the required size and weld a narrow strip or corner to it around the perimeter so that a side with a height of at least 5 cm is formed.

   The wider the corner, the higher the side and the more reliable the tabletop

3. Weld the springs to the base and tabletop, placing them exactly in the center of the glasses.

   The springs are welded at the corners of the frame, all that remains is to secure the tabletop

4. Place the electric motor under the tabletop and, if necessary, weld a separate mount for it. Attach a weight with an offset center to the motor shaft.

   The motor mount can be made from leftover corners or pipes

5. Connect the potentiometer and bring the wire with the switch to a convenient side of the table and secure it to the leg.

   If the button is not secured, it may slip due to vibration.

6. Firmly fix the table on the base of the most in a convenient way(the choice depends on where and on what the operating device will be placed). If the table does not move during operation, it is not necessary to secure it.

   Tests of this vibrating table have shown that it is quite massive and does not move during operation.

After assembling the structure, tests should be carried out without tiles and make sure that all connections are secure. If necessary, adjust welds, adjust motor speed, or make other adjustments.

Video: making a vibrating table

Varieties of forms for paving slabs

Tile shapes should be distinguished primarily by design:

• open (essentially a frame without top and bottom) are designed for pouring tiles directly at the place of use;
• Tray molds are only suitable for vibration casting.

There are also special metal forms for vibrocompression, but they are needed only in production.

A variety of non-standard shapes for paving slabs

If we talk about the design of paving slabs, here manufacturers offer hundreds of different shapes for making beautiful tiles:

• geometric tiles (squares, rectangles, five-, six-, octagons, circles);
• paving stones (imitation of ancient cobblestones, small bricks, rounded cubes);
• patterned tiles (models “Lily”, “Antique”, “Rondo” and others with fine detailed patterns);
• fantasy forms (leaves, turtles, fish, lizards, puzzles, scales);
• tiles with bas-relief (convex images of Greek heroes, dragons, snakes, Chinese epic characters, etc.).

Manufacturers offer molds for making halves of tiles, which allows you to avoid cutting entire products when laying them.

Table: comparison of forms for paving slabs from different materials

Gallery: molds for paving slabs from different materials

How to make molds with your own hands

Homemade forms for paving slabs are justified in two cases: either you want to save as much as possible, or you are going to create a completely exclusive design. In the first case, you should use available materials: pieces of wood, scraps of plastic, unnecessary trays, molded plastic from packaging.

The process of making patterned paving slabs in homemade form

Let's consider the process of making a mold based on a rubber mat.

To create this shape you will need a sheet of plastic or any other smooth material and four boards for the sides (you can take an unnecessary box from old bedside table). The joint between the base and the sides will need to be sealed with construction silicone. It is advisable that the size of the mold be exactly adjusted to the parameters of the rug. The mat should be carefully secured to the bottom with the same construction sealant. To check the correct assembly, try pouring water into the mold, it will help identify cracks. Treat the mold with oil, and you can start pouring it for the first time.

Making tiles in a homemade wooden mold

Wooden formwork can serve as the basis for more complex shapes. For example, such a split hexagon can be made from any pieces of wood found at the dacha; you just need to straighten their geometry and carefully check the dimensions. If desired, you can build a form divided into cells the size of a vibrating table and carry out pouring and drying directly on it.

The process of making a silicone mold for paving stones

The process of creating a silicone mold will not do without formwork. For manufacturing, it is advisable to have a sample of the desired tile or fill the formwork with stones of suitable shape, pebbles, tiles, etc. It is best to fill the bottom of the formwork with sculptural plasticine and place the selected samples on it so that they do not move during pouring. After this, strictly according to the instructions (each manufacturer has its own), mix the components of the silicone compound and fill the formwork with them. You can make several forms in one formwork, or create different options for the location or shape of stones.

Using the same technology, homemade molds are made from gypsum, polyurethane, and injection molded plastic.

Before use, molds of any origin should be lubricated with “Emulsol”, spindle oil or an emulsion of 1.5 liters of soap solution and 50 g of vegetable/mineral oil.

Video: testing mold release agents

Materials for the solution

When making the solution you will need:

• cement of a grade not lower than M500 to ensure the strength of the tiles;
• sand (necessarily cleaned and thoroughly sifted) as a filler;
• fine gravel or screenings (filler, strengthens the solution, makes the product textured);
• clean water at room temperature without sediment;
• fiberglass for reinforcing tiles, increasing resistance to mechanical loads (instead of fiber, you can lay a reinforcing mesh in each mold);
• plasticizer marked C-3 (makes the solution homogeneous, increases frost and water resistance, reduces cement consumption);
• dye for concrete mixtures in the form of powder or ready-made solution (if you need colored tiles).

To give the tiles additional water-repellent properties and speed up curing, liquid glass can be added to the solution.

Tiles require fresh cement. Squeeze the powder in your fist: if it’s all spilled out, it’s fine; if it’s gathered in a lump, it’s too old.

How to mix the solution

1. Moisten the walls of the concrete mixer, pour 2 liters of warm water into the tank and completely dissolve the plasticizer in it.

   Liquid plasticizer is easier to work with, it dissolves quickly and without lumps

2. In a separate container, mix the dye with hot water in a ratio of 1:3 and stir until completely dissolved.

   The higher the pigment concentration, the brighter the tile will be.

3. When you are sure that there are no lumps in both solutions, mix them and add sand to the concrete mixer, after 30 seconds - screening, 20 seconds after that - cement. Add water as needed until the specified volume is used.

   Calculate the volume of one portion so that your concrete mixer can mix it thoroughly

4. The finished mass should be homogeneous, without foreign inclusions, and should stay on the trowel in a heap without slipping.

   It is easy to work with a solution of the correct consistency using a trowel of any shape

Table: optimal proportions of components for paving slabs

How to cast, dry and remove formwork

1. The finished solution is poured into greased molds, or directly on a vibrating table.

   Rectangular shapes are placed more tightly on the table, which allows you to increase the batch

2. After this, vibration starts, during which the mixture thickens and will need to be topped up. Keep a batch of tiles without plasticizer on the vibrating table for 3 minutes, without it - 30 seconds, or until white foam appears.

   The foam is clearly visible on the forms, which means the air has already left the solution.

3. Next, you should wrap the filled forms with film and leave them to dry on a rack for 2-3 days.

   OSB sheets + pipe scraps = temporary shelving

4. Dried tiles can be easily removed from the mold; just bend the ends and shake the product onto a soft surface. But if that doesn’t work, dip the mold in hot water for a few seconds - the mold will expand and the tile will slip out.

   Vertical stacking prevents tiles from splitting during storage

Video: DIY paving slabs

Laying paving slabs with your own hands - step-by-step instructions

Laying paving slabs yourself will not be physically easy, so it is worth inviting one or two assistants to do the work.

Required materials and tools

• trowel for working with mortar;
• mallet for tapping tiles;
• manual rammer;
• marking pegs and cord;
• water level;
• pipe/beam as a guide;
• watering can or watering hose to compact the sand bed;
• rake, broom;
• cement grade M500;
• clean sifted sand.

Execution of work

1. Draw a plan for the location of the paths and mark the area using pegs and a cord. Please note that for normal drainage you need to make a slope of 5 mm per 1 m of length.
2. Prepare the base of the path by removing the top layer of soil and grass and compacting the remaining soil. This can be done with a manual tamper, but it is better to rent a special vibrating machine. The depth of the resulting trench should be 20–30 cm.

   Methods for creating cushions for paving slabs

3. Lay the tiles on top of the pillow away from you, taking into account the position of the marking cord. The width of the seams is adjusted with plastic crosses. If necessary, cut the tiles into fragments to densely fill the space between the borders. Level the position of the tiles with a mallet.

   A contrasting border makes the path more original

Video: laying paving slabs

Determining profitability

On average, it turns out that 1 m2 of homemade paving slabs costs 55% less than purchased ones. And if you consider that the mold resource is enough for 100–200 cycles, subsequent batches will be even more profitable. Of course, with the current level of competition, creating a business for the production of paving slabs is no longer profitable, but it is worth producing it for your own needs.

Now you have everything necessary knowledge in order to successfully produce and lay beautiful and durable paving slabs on your site.

Nowadays it has become very fashionable to lay out paths and recreation areas with paving slabs, however, not everyone is able to purchase ready-made material due to its high cost. It is quite possible to make this finishing material yourself. In addition, it is possible to make tiles in accordance with your personal requests and needs.

Making pavement tiles with your own hands has many advantages, since the finished product: has an original design, can be of any color, and is quite durable and hardy. The production of sidewalk tiles is considered a rather complex and labor-intensive process, especially considering the lack of experience in its production. In addition to preparing forms and tools, it is important to correctly calculate the proportions of the solution for pouring.

There are only two types of manufacturing of these products, namely, by vibration pressing and vibration casting.

The production of tiles using the vibration pressing method involves the use of a thick cement mixture with the addition of a small amount of water. Making tiles by vibrocompression involves preparing the mixture in a vibropress. The vibration casting method is most suitable for making tiles at home. To produce tiles using this method, you will need a concrete mixer, a vibrating table and casting molds.

Paving slabs are considered simply ideal option for arranging a summer house and country house. Its affordable cost and ease of installation make this material ideal for creating beautiful and comfortable walking paths. This coating has long been considered one of the most beautiful and durable. However, due to the high cost of finished tiles, not many people decide to purchase them. To improve your summer cottage or country house, you can make tiles yourself. To make tiles yourself, you first need to prepare the mixture, observing all the required proportions. The recipe for the mixture is quite simple, however, you definitely need to know what components to add and what the proportions should be.

To make the mixture you need to take:

• Binding components;
• Water;
• Fillers;
• Special additives;
• Dye.

Cement is used as binding components. The grade of cement is selected depending on the degree of compressive strength of the component. It is best that the cement grade is M500. The filler can be sand and crushed stone, or just clean sand can be used.

A plasticizer or dispersant is used as special additives. These mineral additives must be used, as they increase frost resistance and give the products greater strength. In addition, they increase the elasticity of the finished tile and give its surface a beautiful glossy shine.

When producing tiles, you definitely need a dye, since when used correctly, the durability and attractiveness of the finished product increases. As a percentage, the amount of dyes used should be no more than 4-5% of the total mass of the concrete mixture.

It is desirable for the dyes used to be lightfast, resistant to adverse weather conditions, and also insoluble in water. When preparing a concrete mixture, be sure to distribute the dye evenly. The recipe for preparing a mixture for tiles varies depending on the requirements for the resulting product.

Optimal composition of mortar for paving slabs

When making tiles yourself, it is important not only to make the product correctly, but also to determine the composition of the solution, which is often quite difficult to do. When preparing the solution, you need to take into account such factors as the type of raw materials used, as well as the conditions for pouring and drying the products. Before you start making tiles, you need to prepare the ingredients, a vibrating table with a perfectly flat surface and shapes.

Sand-cement mixture is made from such components as:

• Cement grade M500 is white;
• Fine river sand;
• Granite crushed stone fraction 3-5 mm or screenings;
• Water;
• Liquid dye;
• Plasticizer;
• Dispersant.

The technology for preparing the mixture is quite simple. Initially, you need to mix the sand well with cement and the prepared plasticizer, and then add crushed stone, which, if desired, can be replaced with screenings. In the end in small portions you need to add liquid. The consistency of the resulting solution should be strong enough so that it easily adheres to the trowel, however, the mixture should not crumble or crack when lightly tapped on the form. The consumption of components largely depends on the required characteristics of the finished product, which is why it is calculated separately. Important! If all the required conditions are met, you can get paving slabs High Quality, which will be characterized by high strength and durability.

How to make paving slabs at home

The most popular element for paving paths in country house or on a summer cottage, central squares and city streets, paving slabs or figured paving elements are considered.

The main advantages of FEM are considered:

• Ease of manufacture;
• Attractive appearance;
• Easy installation.

The tile manufacturing technology means that after preparing the mixture, it needs to be poured into molds located on a vibrating table. Before pouring the mixture, the molds must be lubricated with an oil product. The vibration process lasts only a few minutes and its duration depends on the thickness of the tile.

Excess concrete needs to be removed with a spatula, and if the mixture sinks too much in the molds, then you need to add concrete mortar and continue vibration.

The surface of the solution is then smoothed, and then the filled forms are transferred to pallets. Depending on the air temperature and size, the tiles need to be dried for 2 to 4 days in a special drying chamber. In this case, it is necessary to maintain a certain air humidity and temperature. After drying, the molds are placed in an evaporation bath. When carrying out heat-steam treatment, it is necessary to set soft hardening modes and the temperature should not exceed 70 o C. The removal of finished products is carried out on a special table or manually. It is worth remembering that maximum strength occurs only after 28 days.

DIY plasticizer for paving slabs

Now there are many options for paving slabs, thanks to the use of special forms in its manufacture and dyes different colors. Many people prefer to make tiles themselves, but you need to know how many components to take when producing them. In addition to the main components, plasticizers are also used.

These substances help:

• Improve the quality of manufactured products;
• Simplify the process of forming tiles;
• Improve the appearance of the finished product.

When producing tiles, the plasticizer must be prepared in advance. To do this, dry plasticizer is poured into water heated to 40 o C in a 1:2 ratio. Then the mixture must be mixed for 15 minutes using a mixer attachment. When the solution is ready, it needs to be left for a while. It is best to prepare the plasticizer in the evening, and in the morning you only need to stir it for 15 minutes.

Making paving slabs (video)

In order for the product to be durable and resistant to negative atmospheric conditions, it is imperative to comply with all the required conditions for the manufacture of tiles and use only high-quality materials.