How to plant indoor peppers. House pepper Ogonyok

Those who love spicy dishes should definitely plant Ogonek pepper on their windowsill. This popular, among other things, is also very beautiful. Growing it is not at all difficult. In order for the pepper to develop well and actively bear fruit, it should simply be watered and fertilized on time.

general description

There are several varieties of indoor pepper Ogonyok. If desired, you can plant either a small plant (20-30 cm) or a taller one (up to 50 cm). The low-growing, compact domestic pepper Ogonyok is especially popular among indoor plant lovers.

The decorative value of this plant is represented by both dark green, sharp small leaves and bright fruits. The shape and color of the latter can be very different. On the windowsills of lovers indoor plants Varieties with round, plum-like, cone-shaped fruits are grown. Both yellow and red or purple peppercorns look very beautiful. As the fruits of this plant ripen, they change color. Therefore, fruits of different shades can grow on a bush at the same time. It looks very impressive. The taste of pepper can also be different. There are varieties with both very hot fruits and those with not too hot fruits.

Ogonyok is a pepper whose flowers are not particularly beautiful. Most often they are white or purple in color, small in size and look a little rough. Their value lies only in the fact that they subsequently grow into bright fruits with seeds suitable for self-planting. Up to 50 peppercorns can ripen on a plant at the same time. At the same time, the bush does not stop blooming. So it can be harvested almost all year round.

Disembarkation dates

Indoor pepper Ogonyok is propagated mainly only by seeds. This is the easiest way to get a strong, effective, productive plant in a fairly short time. Previously, in the specialized literature there was advice to plant seeds of homemade pepper at the same time as seedlings of ordinary garden pepper, that is, in late February - early March. However, in Lately On related forums, you can often hear from experienced indoor plant lovers a recommendation to carry out this procedure a little earlier. The fact is that if you plant Ogonyok in November, by summer it will grow much larger and brighter fruits.

Caring for Ogonyok pepper: what soil to use

The advice found in the literature is to plant this pepper in a special purchased soil many experienced flower growers today they also reject it. Fans of this beautiful and, moreover, useful plant it was noticed that it feels best when planted in ordinary garden soil. The only thing is that it is advisable to first lightly fertilize such land with rotted manure. This fertilizer should be steamed. Otherwise, the pepper may become infected with blackleg. When overheated in manure, all pathogenic bacteria die (due to exposure to high temperatures). However, during storage, microorganisms can settle in the organic substrate again.

How to plant correctly

Ogonyok is a pepper whose seeds can be purchased at a specialty store or taken from a familiar amateur gardener. The pot for this plant is usually small. Flower dishes with a volume of 1 liter will be quite enough for the first time. In the future, the pepper will most likely have to be replanted two or three times. This indoor plant can bear fruit for 5 years. However, they usually grow no more than two or three. Then the pepper is replaced with a new one. The fact is that by this time he is losing part of his decorative properties and begins to produce much smaller yields.

To avoid rotting of the roots, you need to lay drainage made of pebbles and broken shards at the bottom of the pot. Next, prepared soil mixed with manure is poured into the container and slightly moistened. 3 seeds are usually planted in one pot (to a depth of no more than 1 cm). Subsequently, you can leave the strongest pepper in the container. After planting, the soil in the pot should be carefully watered with not too much water.

Transplanting a plant

Transshipment of Ogonyok peppers into a large pot is done as soon as 60-65 days have passed after planting. Drainage should be placed in the container. It is better to use soil with the same composition as in small pot. The lump of earth in the old container should first be separated from the walls with a knife. The day before transshipment, the plant needs to be watered abundantly. Then this procedure will be much easier. Then the pepper is carefully removed and transferred to a new pot. The latter should first be filled with drainage and 3-5 cm of garden soil. After the pepper is installed in the pot, the free space between the root ball and the walls of the new container must be filled with soil.

Where to put the pot

Immediately after planting, the container with the seeds should be covered with film and placed in a warm place. When loops appear, the pot is transferred to the windowsill. After 2-3 true leaves appear on the plants, the excess seedlings are removed.

Ogonyok is a photophilous pepper. Even very strong sun rays he is not afraid at all. Therefore, install a pot with these burning bright plant best on a south window. In winter, peppers should be illuminated, if possible, using a fluorescent lamp.

During the cold season, the heating radiator should be covered with a blanket or a piece of some thick fabric. Pepper Ogonyok does not like overheating on the windowsill, just like in any other place. The optimal temperature for it is winter period is 19-22 °C.

How to water correctly

IN summer period The soil under the Ogonyok pepper should be moistened quite often. Watering is carried out after the soil in the pot has dried out by 1 cm. Of course, it is not worth creating a “swamp” in the container. Otherwise, the roots of the pepper may rot. In winter, watering is reduced. Once a week during this period will be enough.

Of course, if the Light is on a south window, watering should be done carefully, trying not to get on the leaves. Otherwise, burns will definitely appear on them. For watering, use only settled water. Chlorine can be very harmful to peppers, like most other indoor plants.

How to fertilize

Ogonyok is a pepper that can be fed with manure and complex universal purchased funds. In the latter case, you can use, for example, nitrophoska (1 box per 10 liters).

A very good solution would also be to carry out foliar feeding pepper with wood ash (infuse 2 tbsp in 3 liters of water). The plant should be sprayed generously. This procedure is carried out exclusively in the morning or evening so as not to burn the leaves.

For the first time, pepper is fertilized before it actively begins to grow. Feeding should not be done too often. In winter, it will be enough to fertilize the plant once - in January. In summer, fertilizing is done more often - about twice a month.

Diseases and pests

This is how Ogonyok peppers are grown on the windowsill. Caring for it is relatively easy. Moreover, diseases do not often strike him. If the air in the room is too warm and dry, aphids may attack the plants. You need to fight it with insecticides. This could be, for example, “Fitoverm” or “Agromertin”. These products can be used no later than two weeks before harvest.

What can it be used for?

Most often, the fruits of the Ogonyok pepper are used to add a piquant taste to various kinds of pickles. A three-liter jar of tomatoes or cucumbers usually contains 2-3 pods. You can also use the fruits as a medicine by adding them to vodka.

Ogonyok pepper contains a huge amount of vitamins. In addition, they can add a unique taste and aroma to almost any dish. Many housewives use the fruits of this plant for frying borscht, adding them to stews, salting them with lard, etc.

The first step is to decide where the vegetable will grow. Many gardeners prefer to use long containers so that they can plant several plants in a row at once. This allows you to significantly save space, but there are also many “disadvantages”, for example:

  1. The vessel will be relatively large, at least 20-25 kilograms, which will significantly complicate its movement. A large mass will also adversely affect the material of the window sill, especially if it is plastic. It may become deformed or “sag” in the middle.
  2. It will be more difficult to navigate the varieties, since the planting density is quite high and it is often possible to determine what exactly will grow from the seedling only after the first fruits.
  3. Untidy appearance and difficulty in separating varieties. It is impossible to place seedlings separately after the start of ripening, which will not satisfy the requirements of many gardeners. Some plants can cross-pollinate.

It is better to give preference to traditional flower pots(see photo).

Calculating the volume of land is quite simple - for 1 plantyou need to have 5 kilograms of fertile soil(the calculation is made taking into account that the height of the bush will be no more than 35 centimeters, and it will be an indoor variety).

This is the minimum volume required for high-quality growth of the root system. You can also plant in smaller pots, but in this case there is no guarantee of proper development of the pepper. If there is not enough free space for the lateral roots, they will curl. This will affect the vegetative mass of the plant, and even the fruits - they will be much sharper, smaller in size. In some cases, they are deformed - the pods have an irregular shape and curl more strongly.

To prepare the vessel we will need: a screwdriver, a heating element(lighter, gas stove, etc.) and a rag to wipe the plastic. One of the most important points When making a pot for indoor peppers, there is drainage - without it there is no hope of getting healthy shoots and ripe vegetables on time. To do this, you need to make several holes in the plastic bottom.

Most often, manufacturers produce such containers with special places where the plastic is much thinner and has a lower melting point. Just 140-160 degrees will be enough to melt the mugs at the bottom. If such places are not provided, holes for drainage will have to be made in a monolithic base. To do this, heat a screwdriver (preferably a curved one) on gas stove or through another source of fire, then lean it against the bottom.

Once the diameter of the burn matches the thickness of the screwdriver, you need to make several rotational movements at an angle of 50-60% degrees to widen the hole and smooth the edges.

Now the place for planting the plant is ready, all that remains is to find a shallow plate or stand for it, into which excess moisture will be spilled after heavy watering. You can use an old ceramic plate or buy a factory-made device for 13-15 rubles on the market - it will be much neater in appearance.

note that outer side such a plate should not be metal (vessels can only be steel for balconies, where they are placed on the floor), since the surface of the window sill can be damaged.

Making soil for indoor hot peppers

It’s no secret that buying ready-made soil is very expensive. Let’s imagine for a moment the prices of any flower shop: expanded clay stones (40 rubles per pack), screened coarse sand (30-40 rubles per 500 gram pack), fertile fertilized black soil (from 50 rubles per pack). That is why it is better to make the soil yourself. This will not take much time, and all the components necessary for this can be found simply on the street, at any construction site or on the farm. We will need the following “cooking ingredients”:

The order in which the layers are poured is very important and should not be violated. First you need to place 2-3 kg of crushed stone (about 6-9 centimeters in a pot), then add up to 10 centimeters of sand and only then 10-15 centimeters of black soil. Such drainage will allow moisture to quickly pass through the entire layer and not knock the earth into a monolithic block.

Do not compact the soil. It is necessary to ensure maximum looseness and minimum density of the chernozem so that the seeds germinate and quickly “get out” out. The roots of hot pepper, like the stem, are very weak, so the plants often die before they even appear. Excessive watering, soil compaction and lack of sand layer are the main problems of beginners that lead to the death of vegetables.

Planting seeds in the soil and features of the process

As you sow, so... will it grow. Special attention it is necessary to pay particular attention to planting peppers. Let's first decide what not to do:


Now let's take a closer look at the landing process itself. There are many technologies, and each gardener does it differently. Let's take a closer look at the most common technique.


After this, it is necessary to water it from a sprayer (you cannot pour water from a bucket, the soil will quickly settle), evenly saturating the soil.


It is necessary that she fills herself with water as much as possible. You can determine the sufficient level visually - small puddles should form on the surface (see photo)


If you are going to plant seedlings outside or take out pots for the summer, then you can plant them a little smaller - the plant will grow well and take root at high temperatures.

For convenience, you can make special “tags” on which you can indicate all the necessary information about the variety that you planted in this pot. They will be especially relevant when there are a large number of plants, when it is simply impossible to remember what was planted and where.


Kira Stoletova

In order to plant plants at home in winter, you do not need to make a lot of effort. Let's look at how to grow ornamental peppers and how to care for them.

  • Growing in containers and pots

    If you plan to grow an ornamental plant in containers or pots, you can choose any variety of plant. Capsicum, the second name for decorative pepper, is usually sown in early March, and in the summer you can take the pots with the plant outside, for example, to the balcony.

    As for choosing a pot, you should take a container with a volume of about 5 liters. Although, if you plan to grow vegetable or berry peppers, which are tall, you should take a larger pot.

    Landing Features

    Before planting hot indoor peppers in the ground, you need to prepare them for planting in a special way. You will need:

    • Substrate for plants in pots
    • Dolomite flour

    It is advisable that the soil contains horn shavings; if it is not there, you can buy it separately. Concerning dolomite flour, it should be added to the ground every 7 days, the recommended amount is 1 tsp. for 5-6 liters of soil.

    Decorative indoor peppers do not grow in dense soil, since such soil does not allow air to penetrate into the soil. Many plant growers add humus to the soil to increase the nutritional value of the soil.

    In order for the soil to be as prepared as possible for growing ornamental peppers in a pot, you can enrich the soil with vermiculite or agroperlite before planting. Using these components, you can maximize the soil's ability to retain moisture.

    Harvesting

    The fruits of decorative peppers will be appreciated by those who like to treat themselves to something spicy and slightly bitter, like chili peppers. When can you pick the edible fruits of hot ornamental peppers?

    If you see that the pepper has changed its color, turned yellow or red, depending on the selected variety, it means that the fruits are fully ripe and can be picked.

    Which variety to choose

    You can plant any variety of homemade ornamental pepper at home. However, there is a list of varieties of decorative indoor peppers that are considered the least demanding to care for and are eaten more often than others:

    • Goldfinger
    • Red rocket
    • Jamaica
    • Python
    • Troll
    • Black bride
    • Pearl
    • Queen of Spades
    • Filius
    • Blue baby
    • Jellyfish
    • Aladdin
    • Pearl
    • Zorro
    • Sirius
    • Salsa
    • Ampelous mischief maker

    If you are growing ornamental hot peppers for the first time, then you should start with these varieties.

    Plant height

    If a pepper bush grows in its natural environment, such as a bell pepper, it can reach a height of 1 meter or even higher. As for indoor conditions, that is, growing on a windowsill, the plant can grow to an average height of 30-60 cm; Aladdin is considered the tallest variety. At the same time, the lifespan of capsicum at home is not long, only 4-5 years.

    However, even for such short term, the bush will delight you with bright fruits more than once. Plus, you'll be harvesting throughout the entire calendar year.

    Lighting

    The first thing worth mentioning is that the room should be sufficiently light and often ventilated, but drafts are categorically undesirable. It is better to choose window sills in the east or west, so you will take into account the lighting requirements.

    You should not place pepper pots on the south side. The fact is that the plant can get burns on the leaves if it is exposed to the sun for a long time.

    However, you do not need to keep the plant in the shade all the time. The bush should be placed in direct sunlight for at least 3-5 hours a day. If the weather outside is cloudy, you need to organize an artificial light source. If there is not enough sun, you will notice this by the appearance of the bush - the branches develop poorly, flowering is worse, and there are catastrophically few fruits.

    The most stressful period for ornamental peppers is considered to be the end of autumn - the beginning of winter, since this period is characterized by short daylight hours. In order to maintain the growth of pepper, you need to organize additional lighting using phytolamps.

    Temperature and humidity

    The room should be 23-25 ​​degrees spring period, in winter a drop to 16-19 degrees is allowed.

    An important feature of ornamental pepper is that the plant loves temperature changes, this concerns the difference between morning and night temperatures. For this reason, plant growers recommend placing the pot on the balcony.

    To grow peppers on a windowsill, a humidity level of at least 60-70% is required. Exceeding normal values ​​is not a pity; in addition, the plant does not tolerate dry periods well. If the hygrometer shows less than 50% humidity, it is recommended, in addition to watering, to also spray the bush with water from a spray bottle.

    Preparing the seeds for planting

    In order for the plant to take root better, it is recommended to sow no earlier than February. It is necessary to prepare the seeds of ornamental pepper before sowing. For this you will need:

    • Disinfectant solution for seeds – Fitosporin or potassium permanganate
    • Growth stimulant, for example, Epin

    In the first case, the seeds are soaked, in the second, they are sprayed in accordance with the instructions for the preparation. If you are going to plant fresh seeds, then you can refuse stimulation.

    Germination of seeds

    During germination, the seeds must lie in water for at least 12 hours. It is important that they are located at least 2 cm apart from each other. This is necessary so that the sprouted sprouts do not interfere with each other’s growth. After germination, you need to sprinkle them with soil, covering them 1 cm from above. Make sure all seeds are covered.

    The next step is to spray the sprouted seeds with water from a spray bottle. It is important here not to overdo it so that the soil is not too wet, otherwise this can lead to mold and rot.

    Try to organize conditions that will resemble greenhouse conditions as much as possible. To do this, you need to cover them with film, then put them in a warm place with good lighting. For the seed to germinate, a temperature of at least 23 degrees will be required.

    Under no circumstances should you place a pot of seeds in direct sunlight, as you risk creating a greenhouse effect under the film, after which the seeds will cook.

    As soon as you see the first small shoots, you must immediately remove the film. This usually takes about two weeks. Although under some conditions this may take longer, for example if you did not prepare the seeds before sowing.

    Transplanting seedlings

    When several leaves have appeared on the seedlings, the seedling is ready to be transplanted to permanent place growth. Each seedling must be placed in a separate container for growing ornamental peppers. Otherwise, if there are 2 or more sprouts in the pot, the plant will become weak and you may not get fruit.

    It is worth taking a pot of about 300 ml in volume. If the volume of the pot is larger, then the root system of the bush may oxidize after several waterings.

    During transplantation, it is important to place the shoot exactly at the same depth at which it was located at the germination stage. Do not push the plant too deep into the soil, as this can lead to rotting of the root system.

    It is important to place a drainage layer at the bottom of the new pot. It must be laid carefully so as not to cover the holes in the bottom.

    It is necessary to choose soil for potted plants. You can slightly press down the soil around the sprout itself, and then water it well. During rooting, it is recommended not to water the bush for at least a week.

    During transplantation, it is necessary to pinch the most important root. This way the lateral shoots of the roots will develop, and the root system will be stronger.

    Growing peppers from cuttings

    In summer and spring, you can grow ornamental peppers using cuttings. To do this, you need to cut off the lateral process, after which the resulting cut must be treated with a special growth stimulator. Next, the shoot needs to be placed in a mixture of soil and sand, the components are taken in a ratio of 1 to 1. It is necessary to provide maximum watering to the cutting, and then cover it with a plastic or glass cap. Place the cutting where it will be warm and light enough.

    It is important to periodically ventilate the spine; this should be done at least once a day.

    You can pinch the top to speed up the rooting process. It is worth making sure that the cutting grows in soil suitable for potted plants. If you chose sandy-earth soil for it at the rooting stage, at the replanting stage you should give preference to the same mixture.

    Caring for decorative peppers

    After the sprout has successfully taken root, it is important to provide the future bush proper care, which consists of the following stages:

    • Watering
    • Periodic spraying
    • Top dressing
    • Crown formation

    Watering the plant

    In summer and spring, the plant is watered as needed, that is, when you find dried soil in the pot. It is worth using only settled water, its temperature should be room temperature.

    Under no circumstances should you allow the soil to dry out. If the bush has withered, its leaves will soon fall off and there will be no more fruit on it.

    Spraying the bush

    If the room temperature is above 25 degrees, spray the bush at least 2-3 times a day.

    Top dressing

    Fertilizing is considered an integral part of caring for ornamental peppers; the plant reacts sharply if there is a lack of certain nutrients in the soil.

    If the leaf color turns purple, it means there is not enough phosphorus in the soil. Excessively light foliage color can indicate a lack of nitrogen.

    Fertilizing should be done at least once every 10-14 days. At the same time, it is important to follow the application rules: potassium and phosphorus mixtures should be applied strictly at the root, nitrogen fertilizers should be applied directly to the leaves.

    Forming the crown

    The procedure for forming the crown, that is, trimming the upper part of the foliage, is a procedure that cannot be neglected. The fact is that formation has a positive effect on fertility indicators, and also gives the tree a beautiful and well-groomed appearance.

    It is important to pinch out each shoot before the first shoots form. The most important branch, namely its crown, is pinched at the moment when the first flowers appear on it. This will contribute to the emergence of developed side shoots. All leaves and branches that stand out from the general crown are subject to pruning.

    Replanting decorative peppers

    It is important to carry out the procedure as carefully as possible so as not to injure root system such a houseplant as an ornamental pepper. In order not to expose the plant to stress, you can limit yourself to partially replacing the soil in the pot without removing the pepper.

    Diseases and pests

    Most often, ornamental plants suffer from spider mites and mealybugs. The first disease affects exclusively the roots, so detect the problem on initial stage fails. It is quite difficult to fight spider mites, so it is better to take preventive measures, that is, disinfect the soil in a timely manner.

    At poor care the risk of the bush being damaged by mealybugs increases; deviations from the norms of humidity and temperature have a particularly detrimental effect on the condition of the plant.

    In winter, when the system is operating central heating, containers with water are placed next to the pots to replenish the fluid deficiency.

    If the soil is too moist, the bush may develop late blight or root rot. If you notice brown or black spots on the foliage, you should immediately treat the leaves with a preparation containing copper. Another sign of the disease is wilting of the leaves. You can help ornamental peppers by removing the plant from the ground and completely replanting it.

    How to plant decorative peppers using boiling water?

    Decorative pepper care

    How to grow small-fruited BITTER PEPPERS on a windowsill

    Difficulties in growing

    When growing ornamental peppers, great attention should be paid to organizing indoor lighting.

    A small number of fruits can also be considered a problem. In order to solve this problem, periodically shake the plant a little, this is especially effective during flowering. For the same purpose, you can brush over the pepper flowers once every two or three days to speed up reproduction.

    Among perennial crops grown on windowsills, decorative peppers are especially popular. With proper care at home, continuous fruiting is observed for 3-5 years. To ensure that the hot spice is always at hand, you need to become more familiar with the cultivation features.

    Popular types

    It is effective to grow peppers at home in compact sizes, up to 50 cm in height. There are varieties of indoor plants, they are also called Capsicum, the height of which does not exceed 20 cm - this is dwarf varieties with numerous bright fruits and a fairly long wave-like ripening. Peppers growing on small green bushes are not only a spectacular decoration for any windowsill, but also an excellent piquant seasoning. There are many types of ornamental peppers, differing in fruit shape, size, leaf mass, duration of the fruiting period, and color from green to purple.

    Annual

    In most cases, plants dry out after harvesting, which explains their name. But there are exceptions - these are certain varieties that, at home, are capable of bearing fruit for several years in a row. Annuals are distinguished by their short stature, compactness, their height is 30-55 cm. Depending on the varietal characteristics, the fruits may have different shapes and color.

    Most often, California miracle, Atlant, Orange miracle, Kakadu, Habanero, Bogatyr, Anastasia are grown on windowsills. Phoenix, Redskin, Cherry Bomb, Tepin, and Siberian Prince have positive reviews.

    Shrubby

    This type of perennial plant is grown on window sills, balconies, and loggias. Shrub pepper is good decision in the choice of indoor crops, it stands out for its qualitative and quantitative fruiting (5-6 years), its height is in the range of 15-45 cm.

    The crown of the plant is quite dense, the fruits are small in size, their number reaches up to 50 pieces. Among the famous small-fruited varieties are the Queen of Spades, Carmen, Ogonyok, Bride, and Salute. Bush pepper is also known as cayenne pepper.

    Berry-bearing

    This variety of homemade pepper fully lives up to its name; its fruits are distinguished by a flattened shape, rather than the usual cone-shaped one, somewhat similar to squash. The Bishop's Crown pepper variety is attractive due to its unusual shape, but its productivity indicators are average, up to 20 fruits from one bush.

    Often in room conditions there are Lemon Lollipop, White Crystal, which have proven themselves exclusively with positive side. They have high yields. They are sweet and not spicy in taste. Tall plants grow up to 80 cm and are best placed on the floor.

    Chinese

    This is a less common type of indoor pepper, its height does not exceed 50 cm. The compact bush is distinguished by its ovoid foliage, their color is light green, the surface is slightly wrinkled. The flowers attract attention with their white color, there is a greenish tint.

    Peppers may differ in shape; there are specimens in the form of a flashlight. Chinese pepper is valued for its pungency and heat. Its only drawback is its relatively slow growth. Santa Lucia, Devil's Yellow, and Devil's Tongue are popular.

    pubescent

    This variety is also called fluffy pepper; due to its tallness (3-4 m), it is most often planted in open areas. At home, some of its types are suitable, in particular, Rokoto. It grows only up to 1 m in height. The plant is covered with dense pubescence (shoots, flowers, leaves).

    The flowers can be single or paired and have an unusual purple color. Short peppers grow dark red, orange, brown or black. The fruits are quite spicy in taste.

    Is it possible to eat decorative peppers?

    Indoor decorative pepper not only decorates the room, it also brings benefits. This spicy vegetable, when used regularly, can:

    • improve the condition of the central nervous system;
    • normalize the hematopoietic function of the body;
    • improve the functioning of the cardiovascular system;
    • enhance brain activity;
    • reduce the likelihood of developing atherosclerosis, bronchial asthma, renal failure;
    • provoke the release of happiness hormones;
    • effectively fight pathogenic microorganisms both on internal and external tissues of the body.

    But in order not to cause undesirable manifestations for the body, it should be consumed in moderate doses, otherwise it can cause a burn to the mucous membrane digestive system, increase the load on the heart, increase blood pressure.

    The best varieties for indoor growing

    Due to their high taste characteristics and yield indicators, the following varieties are especially popular:

    1. This indoor plant is a mid-early crop; harvesting occurs 115-120 days after planting. The bush is distinguished by medium growth vigor and branchiness. The size of the pods is quite large, their weight reaches 45 g. They grow in a rich red color and have a burning taste.
    2. Aladdin. The ornamental crop is characterized as medium-sized, its height is no more than 50 cm. The variety is in demand because of its ultra-earliness, it bears fruit abundantly and for a long time. Small peppers are distinguished by their cone-shaped shape, pronounced aroma and pungency. As they ripen, their color changes; when they reach technical ripeness, the skin becomes red.
    3. The compact plant reaches only 31 cm in height. The flowers are purple, self-pollinating. Black fruits turn red when they reach technical ripeness. Black pearl pepper does not require large containers, enough is enough flower pots with a volume of 1.5-3 liters.
    4. This Dutch variety of hot pepper has won consumer recognition for its abundant fruiting. The productivity is high, even despite the low growth of the bush, height 20-30 cm.
    5. This indoor pepper is famous for its productivity and undemandingness to growing conditions. The early-ripening crop pleases with its hanging red fruits, their length is up to 5 cm. The height of the bush does not exceed 45 cm, there are not so many leaves. The fruits have a sharp taste and are actively used for preparing assorted dishes, marinades, and as a spice.
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    Necessary agrotechnical conditions

    When growing peppers in a pot, certain recommendations should be followed to maintain its decorative qualities and productivity. Only A complex approach will allow you to get a strong and promising plant.

    Choosing a place in the apartment

    The best option The placement of the ornamental plant will be in a fairly sunny location. To increase the length of daylight, it is recommended to grow hot peppers on the windowsill of a south or east window. The leaves of the plant are acutely sensitive to direct sunlight, so in summer they need to be darkened.

    To develop immunity, a pot of hot pepper is taken out to the balcony at night to artificially cause contrasting temperatures. It is good for the plant to change its location every 2-3 years or replant it to stimulate growth and development. If this condition is not met, the ability to bear fruit will cease after 5 years.

    Illumination

    A prerequisite for obtaining a rich harvest is sufficient quantity sunlight. To fully satisfy the needs of indoor hot pepper, you need to place the pot on a windowsill with a southern, western or southwestern orientation. Considering the light-loving nature of the crop in spring and autumn period, she should receive up to 3-4 hours of sunlight. You should not exceed these time limits, otherwise, instead of benefit, you can cause burns on the sheet plates.

    When there is a shortage of sunlight, hot peppers are provided with an additional source of lighting in the form of fluorescent lamps.

    Temperature and humidity

    Heat-loving indoor pepper grows and develops effectively at room temperatures of up to 25 degrees - in spring and summer. As for winter, the temperature should be within 10-12 degrees. Air humidity is of particular importance for decorative piquant crops. In case of increased dryness, the plant will shed its leaves, and its fruits will have a wrinkled surface. In winter, regular leaf spraying will be useful for hot peppers on the windowsill.

    Preparatory work

    When growing hot peppers at home, it is important to choose the soil, container and seed preparation wisely.

    How to get planting material

    To grow hot peppers, it is better to choose seeds taken from dried fruits. Alternatively, they can be purchased at specialized retail outlets or in online stores, which offer planting material for ornamental and exotic crops. If you sow it in February-March, you can count on a harvest in September-October. For successful cultivation On the windowsill, you should choose the right seed material and carry out its pre-sowing preparation.

    Pre-planting seed treatment

    The choice of seeds should be focused on self-pollinating varieties; if you use other varieties, pollination will have to be done manually, which is not always convenient and effective. To speed up the germination process, purchased or collected seeds You need to keep it in a container with water for several days. But they are first treated with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate, kept for 30 minutes. Wood ash is used as a natural growth stimulant; it is added to water for soaking seeds.

    Soil and container for planting

    The pots are filled either with ready-made seedling substrate, which is sold in specialized retail outlets, or with nutritious soil prepared independently from leaf soil(2 parts), peat (1 part), river sand (1 part), coconut fiber (1 part) and perlite (1 part). To avoid negative consequences for plantings in the form of the development of various kinds of diseases, the soil mixture is disinfected with fungicidal preparations such as Previkur. A 1% solution of potassium permanganate is suitable for these purposes.

    To plant seeds in the ground, you will need separate 200 ml containers. To transplant an adult bush, it is better to take pots with a volume of over 3 liters.

    Technology of sowing seedlings

    To achieve good results, you need to know how to properly plant hot pepper from seeds at home.

    When to sow

    When cultivating at home, it is very important to adhere to planting dates. seed material. Sowing the piquant crop in containers or other containers is allowed throughout the year, as long as the temperature in the room is maintained in the range of 20-25 degrees. Varieties with early or very early ripening are sown from April to mid-May, and plants with medium or late ripening - from the last days of February to the first days of May.

    Depth and pattern of seed placement

    The prepared seed material is planted either in a common container (2-3 cm between seedlings) with further picking, or separately, using peat cups. When growing indoor pepper, you need to know that it does not tolerate transferring it into a deeper container; its growth processes can slow down significantly. It is more efficient to immediately sow in pots with a volume of 3 liters. Planting depth seed material should not exceed 1.5-2 cm. Sprouted specimens should be used extremely carefully, the root should be directed downwards.

    Seedling care

    To grow a healthy and strong plant, you need to properly care for it.

    First shoots

    In order for the seeds to germinate faster, they need to create greenhouse conditions. To do this, the containers are covered plastic film and place it in a warm and bright place. The recommended room temperature should be at least 24 degrees. When shoots appear, the covering material is removed. You can expect sprouts from fresh seeds in 10-14 days. If old copies are used, then this process will take 2-3 weeks. Growing seedlings will find a comfortable temperature within 18-20 degrees.

    Picking to a permanent place

    Sprouts can be replanted at the stage when they have two pairs of true leaves. From small pots with a volume of 200-300 ml, ornamental plants are transferred to large containers filled with fertile soil. It is important that after the manipulations the pepper is at the same level as it grew before.

    If you dig deep into the ground, then due to the lack of the ability to form additional roots, the spicy plant will die.

    Features of growing on a window

    Caring for decorative peppers involves timely application of nutrients, hydration, and bush formation.

    Watering and fertilizing regime

    In spring and summer, the soil is moistened as it dries. There must be water room temperature and settled (1 day). In drought conditions, the plant sheds leaves and flowers, so watering is done regularly, but in moderate doses. In hot weather, leaf spraying 2-3 times a day is effective.

    The lack of nutrients in the soil can be determined by external condition. If there is not enough phosphorus, the lower leaves turn purple. Nitrogen deficiency is detected by the light color of the leaf mass. Feed hot peppers once every 2 weeks. Nitrogen compounds are used for leaf treatments, and phosphorus-potassium compounds are used for bush treatments. Care at home must be of high quality, otherwise the fruits will be small and not sharp.

    Diseases and pests of indoor species

    The spicy perennial most often suffers from an attack by spider mites. This harmful insect appears on plants under conditions of high humidity in the air. Mealyworm attacks bushes if there is no disinfectant treatment of the soil before planting. If you overdo it with watering, then there is a high probability of developing dangerous diseases on the plantings - late blight, root rot. If lesions of different colors are detected on leaf plates, they should be treated with copper-containing preparations. A clear manifestation of root rot is the wilting of the bush. To save it, the soil is replaced with new one.

    Bush formation

    When cultivating pepper at home on the windowsill, you need to periodically prune it; thanks to this procedure, productivity indicators significantly increase decorative culture, a beautiful crown is formed and growth processes are enhanced. At the first fruiting, each side shoot is pinched. Since hot peppers tolerate shortening quite painlessly, from time to time it will benefit from pruning half the length of each branch.

    Flowering period and subtleties of pollination

    It is more convenient to grow self-pollinating varieties indoors. If you want to increase the amount of harvest, you should lightly shake the plant at the flowering stage or go over all the flowers with a soft brush. To stimulate the appearance of new ovaries, carry out abundant watering.

    It happens that the buds of hot peppers fall off. The reason for dropping flowers may be non-compliance with the rules of agricultural technology. It is necessary to properly organize irrigation, feed the plant and control the air temperature in the room.

    Harvesting

    The fruits of indoor hot peppers are collected as they ripen; here you need to focus on the varietal characteristics of each specific type. There are varieties (Jalapeño) that, when they reach their technical maturity, lose their pungency. Therefore, they are picked earlier, while still unripe. If you plan to collect seed material, the peppers must be fully ripe and red, orange or yellow in color. After being picked from the bush, these specimens should dry out for 2-3 days.

    Hot pepper, as a perennial plant, has its own characteristics. To achieve a high-quality harvest, correct agricultural practices must be followed.

    Decorative indoor pepper is an opportunity to extend the feeling of summer throughout the entire winter period. The plant called pepper is actually a member of the Solanaceae family. Its second name is capsicum.

    Ornamental pepper is a perennial that can be grown indoors. His homeland is South America and Asia. The height of the plant, which is a branched bush with oblong leaves, is from 20 to 50 centimeters.

    The flowers of decorative pepper are small and white. The crop is self-pollinating, and after flowering, round or oblong fruits of yellow, red, orange or purple are formed among the shiny foliage. The fruit size is from 2 to 5 centimeters, depending on the variety. A feature of homemade ornamental peppers is the simultaneous formation of flowers and fruits of varying degrees of maturity. The fruits of decorative peppers, due to the content of the alkaloid capsaicin, are hot, bitter and spicy. The stems and leaves of the plant are poisonous.

    For successful cultivation, it is important to know how to care for ornamental peppers. Care at home is basically the same as growing other indoor plants, but also has some nuances.

    The most popular types with photographs

    Different types of ornamental peppers differ in the shape of the leaves, the time of fruiting, the color and shape of the fruit:



    1. Annual. Varieties of this species have a pronounced vegetable, sweetish taste, which is why it is called indoor paprika. Some varieties of this species may dry out after harvesting the fruits. Annual pepper bushes are compact in shape, 35-55 centimeters high. Popular varieties:
    • Tepin.
    • Redskin.
    • Siberian prince.
    1. Bush (cayenne). Perennial species, most suitable for growing on a windowsill, balcony, loggia. Fruits up to 6 years. The height of the bush is from 15 to 45 centimeters. Each bush produces 45-50 fruits. Varieties of this species:
    • Carmen.
    • Firework.
    • Bride.

    Ornamental bush pepper

    1. Berry-bearing. It got its name from the flattened shape of the fruit. The original fruits of this species resemble squash. The taste of the fruit is sweetish, with a slight amount of pungency. The species is tall, up to 80 centimeters. Berry pepper varieties:
    • Lemon lollipop.
    • White crystal.
    • Crown Bishop.
    1. Chinese. Less common in home growing view. Bush up to 50 centimeters high. The fruits vary in shape. The most original ones are in the form of a flashlight. The disadvantage of this species is its slow growth. Popular varieties:
    • Santa Lucia.
    • Devil's tongue.
    • Devil's yellow.
    1. Pubescent. Mainly grown in open ground, due to his height. Only certain varieties are suitable for growing indoors. For example, Rokot, up to 1 meter high. This species received its name due to the pubescence of the leaves, stems and flowers.

    Selection of planting material

    For growing at home, it is recommended to choose varieties with a height of no more than 40-50 centimeters. Such bushes can be placed on the windowsill in small pots. Varieties of various colors and shapes will look impressive, creating a contrasting play of colors.

    For growing on a windowsill, it is best to purchase low-growing varieties.

    Ornamental pepper seeds can be purchased in specialized stores. When purchasing, you need to pay attention to the date of seed collection. When properly stored, seeds remain viable for up to 5 years, but germination decreases annually, so seeds no older than 1 year will give the highest percentage of germination.

    The planting material must have a uniform color and structure, without dark spots, damage, or curls. High-quality ornamental pepper seeds smooth surface cream color.

    Rules for growing peppers at home

    Growing peppers indoors requires compliance with some recommendations and rules, without which success will not be achieved.

    Accommodation in the apartment and selection of soil

    The room for decorative peppers should be as light and ventilated as possible, but without drafts. Western or eastern windows are ideal for the plant, since pepper is demanding of lighting. If the room's windows face south, it is not recommended to keep the pepper on the windowsill: the tender leaves will suffer from sunburn at midday.

    If the pepper is on a south window, it needs shading

    But without sunlight, peppers cannot grow. It is extremely important for him to receive 3-4 hours of open sunlight a day. If there is not enough sun, it is necessary to provide it with artificial lighting. The lack of light immediately affects the condition of the decorative pepper. It branches poorly, blooms poorly, and practically does not form fruit.

    A particularly difficult period for perennial peppers is November-January. At this time, daylight hours are very short. And the plant is stressed. The condition of the pepper is restored by additional illumination with fluorescent or phytolamps. The daylight hours of a southern plant should be at least 12 hours.

    The soil for peppers should be as loose and breathable as possible. This crop does not tolerate dense soil. The ideal substrate is obtained by mixing leaf turf, peat and sand in equal quantities. You can add a small amount sawdust. To increase nutritional value, add a small amount of humus.

    Advice. To ensure that the soil composition is ideal for growing peppers, experienced gardeners advise adding agroperlite or vermiculite to the substrate. These ingredients prevent soil compaction and promote moisture retention.

    With short daylight hours, pepper needs additional lighting

    Temperature and humidity

    The recommended temperature for growing peppers is 24-25 degrees in spring and summer, 15-18 degrees in winter. Pepper loves differences in day and night temperatures, so in summer it is recommended to keep it on a loggia or balcony.

    Pepper needs moderate humidity. It does not tolerate waterlogging, but also reacts negatively to lack of moisture. When the moisture content in the room is less than 50%, it is recommended to spray the peppers with a spray bottle.

    Sowing rules

    The time for sowing pepper when growing it from seeds is early February. The first stage is growing seedlings. The seeds are treated with a disinfectant solution (potassium permanganate or), then soaked for 12 hours in a small amount of water for 12 hours. If the seeds are old, they can be pre-treated. This technique does not affect the development of the plant in the future, but the germination energy is doubled. Freshly harvested seeds do not need stimulation.

    When the seeds swell, they are placed in seedling containers. For 5-6 seeds, a 300-400 ml pot or tray is quite suitable. The container is filled with soil. Suitable for growing seedlings ready mix for seedlings from the store.

    Ornamental peppers are grown strictly through seedlings

    The seeds are placed at a distance of 2-3 centimeters from each other so that the sprouts do not interfere with each other after germination. The top of the crops is sprinkled with soil in a layer of 0.5 centimeters. All seeds must be completely covered with soil. Then the surface is moistened with a spray bottle. The soil should be slightly moist, but not wet, since in waterlogged soil the seeds will begin to mold and rot.

    Greenhouse conditions are created for the seeds. Cover the top of the container with film and place it in a bright, warm place. To germinate, seeds need a temperature of at least 24 degrees.

    Important. Do not place the container on a window in direct sunlight. In such conditions, under the film it will be created Greenhouse effect, and the seeds will simply “cook”.

    When shoots appear, the film is immediately removed from the planting container. Fresh seeds germinate in 10-14 days. The process of germination of old seeds may take several weeks. After the emergence of seedlings, the air temperature is briefly reduced to 18-20 degrees.

    Planting seedlings in a permanent place

    Seedlings are ready for transplantation to a permanent growing site at the stage of two pairs of true leaves. Each sprout of decorative pepper is grown in a separate pot. When several plants are planted together in one container, the weaker ones will stop growing and will not bear fruit.

    Only one plant can be grown in a pot

    To begin with, small pots of 200-300 milliliters in size are suitable. It is not recommended to plant immediately in a large pot, since soil undeveloped by roots will acidify during watering. When transplanting, the plant is placed at the same level at which it grew previously. It is not recommended to bury the plant, since additional roots do not form on the pepper stem, as happens, for example, in tomatoes.

    A layer of drainage must be placed at the bottom of the pot. To prevent the drainage mixture from clogging the hole in the bottom, place a fragment of a ceramic pot on it with the convex side up. The pot is filled with pre-prepared soil mixture and the sprout is planted in it. The soil around the plant is lightly compacted and moistened abundantly. During the rooting process, approximately 7-10 days, the pepper is not watered. Until the roots have taken root, excess moisture is not absorbed by the plant, and the root may rot.

    Advice. When transplanting a sprout, pinch off its main root a little. This technique promotes the formation of a large number of lateral roots and the formation of a powerful root system.

    How to grow decorative peppers from cuttings

    In spring and summer, ornamental peppers can be propagated by cuttings. For rooting, a side shoot is cut off. The cut is treated with a root formation stimulator and placed in a mixture of sand and soil (1:1). The cuttings are watered abundantly and covered with a glass or plastic cap. The pot is placed in a bright, warm place.

    To propagate ornamental peppers, you can use the cutting method.

    During the rooting process, the cap is lifted daily for ventilation. To make the cutting take root faster, it is recommended to pinch the top of it. The cutting can be immediately planted in a pot in which it will grow in the future. In this case, the pot is filled with the substrate recommended for growing ornamental peppers. If the cutting has taken root in the sand-soil mixture, after 20-30 days it is transferred to a larger pot along with the earthen ball in which it grew previously.

    Cultivation care

    Standard care for indoor peppers

    When grown in a pot, caring for ornamental peppers includes the following:

    • Watering. In spring and summer, peppers need to be watered as the soil dries out. For irrigation, warm water that has been standing for at least a day is used. The earthen clod should not be allowed to dry out. If the plant wilts, it may lose its leaves and flowers, and there will be no fruit.
    • Spraying. On particularly hot days, pepper should be sprayed every 2-3 days.
    • Feeding. Ornamental pepper is a nutrient-demanding crop. The plant will tell its own about the lack of any substance. appearance. The purple tint of the lower leaves indicates a lack of phosphorus. Lightening of the leaves indicates a lack of nitrogen. Feeding mineral mixtures pepper is needed every 2 weeks. Phosphorus-potassium mixtures are applied at the roots, nitrogen fertilizers are applied to the foliage.
    • Crown formation. Trimming decorative peppers - mandatory procedure, helping to increase the number of fruits and the formation of a beautiful crown. When the first fruits form, each shoot is pinched. The crown of the main stem is pinched immediately after the first flowers appear on it. This technique promotes the growth of new side shoots, and the pepper bush becomes fluffy and round. It is also recommended to trim all shoots that escape from the general crown.

    Transplanting decorative indoor peppers

    It is necessary to replant ornamental peppers with partial soil replacement every year. the main objective This procedure increases the nutritional value of the soil. In order not to injure the plant, which reacts extremely painfully to transplantation, some gardeners use partial replacement of the soil in the pot without removing the plant from it.

    Possible diseases and pests

    Most often, ornamental peppers are attacked mealybugs And spider mites. Mealyworm attacks the roots of the plant. To prevent its occurrence, it is necessary to disinfect the soil before planting.

    Plants are often affected by mealybugs

    Spider mites appear on peppers when the recommendations for moisture content in the air are violated . The plant must be bathed regularly and the air humidified. In winter, when the humidity level in the apartment drops sharply due to heating, it is recommended to place an open container of water next to the pot of pepper.

    If the soil is waterlogged, peppers may develop root rot or late blight. If any spots appear on the leaves, the plant must be treated with a copper-containing preparation. The appearance of root rot is indicated by wilting of pepper leaves. In this case, the plant is removed from the soil and completely replaced.

    Difficulties and secrets of growing indoor peppers

    The main problem with growing ornamental peppers at home is the lack of sunlight. Pepper is a child of the sun, and without it it will not feel comfortable. To compensate for this deficiency, in the summer you can place pots of pepper outside or on the balcony.

    In the summer, pots of peppers can be taken outside

    The multi-colored miniature fruits that form after flowering give indoor peppers a special decorative appearance. To increase the number of ovaries, experienced flower growers advise periodically shaking the pot with pepper during the flowering period or brushing the flowers one by one with a soft brush.

    You can get acquainted with the features of growing ornamental peppers from the proposed video material. Enjoy watching!