How to choose an aluminum heating radiator for an apartment. What heats better? Which heating batteries are better for an apartment, prices of devices

When ensuring insulation of a private house and insulation of the roof along the rafters, one must not forget that special attention should be paid to such a place as the attic.

Development of attic floor insulation with mineral wool

Warm air tends to rise to the top, and therefore, in a temporarily unheated room, heat can escape through the cold attic space. Therefore, the issue of insulating the attic must be resolved without delay.

1 Why do you need attic floor insulation?

Insulation of a cold attic floor with stone or mineral wool, according to by and large needed in lightly used rooms that are properly equipped with special roof ventilation.

The attic, or rather its ceilings, serves as a kind of boundary between heat and cold. In such places, the attic floors are exposed to intense moisture due to the formation of condensation.

However, you can properly insulate the floors in the attic of a house with mineral wool with your own hands. The very process of insulating the floor in the attic with mineral wool is the creation of a durable thermal insulation coating, which will have a low degree of thermal conductivity.

The technology itself for insulating mineral wool floors in the attic, as well as Energoflex thermal insulation for pipes, implies strict adherence to its stages and requirements.

The technology itself is quite simple and understandable. Good attic floor insulation using mineral wool helps close unwanted gaps.

To do this, the insulation must be laid tightly. In most cases, mineral wool is used to insulate the attic of a house.

The presented insulation is the most suitable for this type of work; it can also be used to insulate the floor surface in the living areas of the house.

By organizing good insulation with mineral wool, the most optimal temperature will be maintained in residential premises.

If the procedure is performed incorrectly, moisture rising from the floor of the house will lead to the formation of condensation.

It will accumulate on the ceiling and then seep through the ceilings. The resulting temperature difference in those areas where the attic floors adjoin the walls of the house initiates the formation of mold and microscopic fungi, which can be causative agents of allergic diseases.

1.1 Requirements for attic insulation

The process of insulating the attic floor and insulating the roof of a house with your own hands, or rather the level of its quality, has a direct impact not only on the size of heat loss, but also on the service life of the entire truss structure and roof covering.

The fact is that water vapor located inside the heated room diffuses to the attic of the house. In order for the insulation used to provide a high degree of calculated efficiency of the thermal insulation layer, it must always be dry.

Based on this, the insulation must be protected from excessive humidification by vapors of rising heated air using a special vapor-proof material.

If the attic space is well insulated, it will not only provide high-quality thermal insulation, but will also help increase the service life of the entire roofing structure.

If there is no vapor barrier, steam will penetrate through the unprotected attic floors and condense on the floor surfaces.

This will lead to moisture flowing onto the rafters, which, under its influence, will begin to slowly rot from the inside.

As a result, the likelihood of destruction of the entire roofing pie increases. The thermal insulation performance of the structure is also reduced due to the fact that the tightness of the vapor barrier layer has been compromised.

Before insulating the attic, you need to drain the layer and remove moisture from the entire attic space. To do this, ventilation should be done through windows. They can be:

In order to ensure maximum ventilation intensity, the indicator of the total area of ​​all ventilation holes should be equal to 0.2-0.5% of attic floors.

If all work is carried out correctly, then icicles will not form on the roof in winter. The process of insulating the attic space itself is carried out not from the living quarters, but from the attic floor.

This is the most convenient way to lay insulation, the choice of which depends on the technology used and the design features of the structure.

1.2 Features of insulation of beam floors

When implementing such an insulation scheme using mineral wool, heat is retained in the space between the beams. Their usual height is almost always enough for this, but if necessary, several bars are packed on top.

Insulating the ceiling with mineral wool from the attic side

The lower part of the ceiling is sewn up using molded material, as when insulating the attic of a private house. For this, lining or sheets of plasterboard can be used.

The subfloor covering is laid on top of the beams. This can be a tongue and groove board, plywood sheet or OSB board. Mineral wool is placed on a previously prepared special vapor barrier layer.

An alternative can be an ordinary film made using polyethylene. If the vapor barrier material is foil-coated, then it is laid with the shiny surface down.

The intermediate distance between the beams is filled with mineral wool with the required thickness parameters. The surface of the beams must be equipped with an additional insulating layer.

This will lead to blocking the so-called cold bridges and will significantly reduce the overall level of heat loss. If timber was used to create beams High Quality, then the finishing material spreads directly onto their surface.

Mineral wool is placed between them as when insulating a roof using polyurethane foam, and the attic floor is laid on top. The use of this technology is especially important in houses that are made of logs or beams.

It is important to reliably protect mineral wool from the smallest drops of moisture, this is especially true if the roof has minor coating defects that cause leaks.

The layer of mineral wool must be reliably protected from the effects of wind from the eaves. For this purpose, mineral wool slabs with a high degree of density are used.

2 Why is mineral wool used to insulate an attic?

In most cases, when insulating attic floors, the consumer's choice falls on mineral wool. Its advantage is that its installation does not require special skills.

Mineral wool has excellent thermal insulation properties. Its structure consists of thin glassy fibers, the length of which ranges from 2 to 60 millimeters.

Insulating the attic with mineral wool

High sound insulation characteristics are ensured due to the presence large quantity air pores

These pores are located in the space between the fibers and can occupy 95% of the total volume of the insulation. Mineral wool is presented in three varieties; it can be basalt glass and stone.

Basalt wool is made using molten basalt rocks, to which binding elements are added.

This may be a carbonate type rock, which regulates the acidity level of the substance, which entails an increase in the service life of the insulation. Glass wool exhibits high heat-resistant properties and can withstand temperatures up to +450 degrees Celsius.

2.1 Technology for insulating attic floors with mineral wool

When carrying out work related to mineral wool, it is important to comply with all safety requirements and regulations.

This is due to the fact that in the process of cutting and laying such material, the air is filled with tiny particles that can enter the respiratory organs and thus cause harm to human health.

During installation, be sure to ensure the availability of personal protective equipment. Goggles, a respirator and thick rubber gloves must be available.

The process of insulating attic floors begins with the selection of the necessary tools and additional materials.

The essence of insulation technology is that the insulation must be carefully laid in the space between the attic floors or beams.

To enhance the thermal insulation qualities, reliable vapor barrier protection should be used. Warm and moisture-saturated air will continuously rise from the living rooms and reach the top through the ceiling.

There, in the under-roof space, it will collide with a layer of insulation. Due to the fact that mineral wool is generally considered a vapor-proof material, it will absorb all the outgoing moisture inside itself.

If it is left without the necessary access to air and sunlight, it will gradually dry out and, ultimately, lose all its heat-insulating qualities.

Cold attic interfloor covering 20 cm min. wool

In order to avoid such destructive consequences, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier material under a layer of mineral wool.

Before starting the main work, you will need to carefully calculate the required amount of insulation.

The amount of cotton wool purchased depends on how many layers are planned to be used when covering the attic space. In addition, the thermal insulation thickness parameter directly depends on the climatic conditions in the region.

Insulating the ceiling of a cold attic with mineral wool

Insulating the ceiling of a cold attic with mineral wool - advantages. Features of insulation of cold attic floors with mineral wool.

Insulating the attic floor in a private house - effective ways to retain heat

Insulating the attic floor of a house allows you to retain more heat inside the room, rather than wasting it on heating a cold attic. It’s good if it is used as a utility room (technical attic) or as an attic, but what if not? Then it makes no sense to waste resources on heating an unheated attic space.

That is why it is worth insulating the ceiling of a cold attic using thermal insulation materials. Insulation can be done from the attic side or from the room side (inside/outside). It is best to do this during the construction of the building, or immediately before finishing rooms. But even during the operation of the house, there is no reason not to insulate the ceiling from the attic.

The thickness of the attic floor insulation is standardized using SNiP II-3-79 “Construction Heat Engineering”. This manual contains detailed recommendations regarding the selection and formula for calculating the heat transfer resistance of various thermal insulation materials. The calculations take into account not only the type of material, but also the average annual temperature, the duration of the heating season, and the wall material of the house.

The technology for insulating the attic floor depends on the selected material.

Comparative characteristics thermal insulation material with equal thickness

In this article we will look at the most popular insulation materials.

Insulation of the attic floor with mineral wool

Mineral wool is an insulation material whose fibers are arranged in a certain way. It is this randomness that leads to the formation of an air cushion between the fibers, which imparts its properties to the insulation. However, this same feature of cotton wool increases its ability to absorb moisture. To avoid this, you need to know how to install mineral wool correctly.

Advantages of mineral wool:

• high density;
• long service life;
• Fire safety;
• ease of installation;
• the use of mineral wool for insulation of horizontal surfaces does not lead to caking, sliding and, as a result, the formation of cold bridges.

Among the disadvantages: the ability to absorb moisture.

Technology for insulating attic floors with mineral wool

There are three main ways to lay cotton wool: completely, in grooves or in cells (see photo). The choice of method depends on what load will subsequently fall on the floor. The most stable frame is obtained in the latter case.

Insulation of the attic floor with mineral wool

First stage

It starts with laying a vapor barrier film. The film will allow you to remove steam that rises from a warm living space into a cold attic. To lay the film correctly, you need to carefully read the markings on it. It is imperative to maintain an overlap of 100 mm.

Technology for insulating attic floors with mineral wool If insulation is carried out along wooden beams, then the film should go around all protruding elements. Otherwise, the beams may rot.

At the junction of the film and walls or other protruding surfaces, you need to raise it to a height equal to the thickness of the insulation plus 50 mm. and glue it with tape or wrap it on an insulation board.

Second phase

The insulation (cotton wool) is being laid. It's a pretty simple process. Plates or strips are easily cut with a construction knife to the required sizes.

When laying the sheet, you need to make sure that there are no gaps or the mineral wool material is not too compressed. Both will lead to a decrease in the quality of insulation. Common mistakes on the picture.

a) insufficient thickness of thermal insulation material;

b, c, d) the thickness of the attic floor insulation is incorrectly selected.

Useful tips for installing mineral wool

• insulation with foil will increase the material’s resistance to heat loss. The sheet is laid with the foil side down.

• the insulation should not protrude beyond the beam. If this situation occurs, the beam needs to be lengthened wooden beam or additional lath to the thickness of the insulation.

• Thin insulation laid in two layers retains more heat than one thick one. In this case, the slabs must be laid in a checkerboard pattern.

• if there are protrusions in the attic structural elements, for example, a chimney pipe, you need to raise the insulation to a height of 400-500 mm. and secure it.

Third stage

Waterproofing is installed if the attic is not intended to be used and the rafter system is not protected by a waterproofing film. If the roofing material is separated from the attic with film, then you can proceed with the final stage.

Rough floor. It is laid on top of the insulation and serves as the basis for the final finishing.

Insulating the attic floor with foam plastic

The installation technology process is similar to insulating an attic floor with polystyrene foam.

The advantages of these materials:

Among the disadvantages: flammability.

Technology for insulating attic floors with polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam

The process of installing rigid foam-based insulation is more than simple and can be done with your own hands. The work can be divided into two stages:

• surface leveling. To ensure high-quality insulation, there should be no significant unevenness on the base floor. Such differences can be eliminated by screeding with sand-cement mortar.

• The slabs are laid end-to-end or between beams. The presence of timber increases the strength of the floor.

Insulation of the attic floor with polystyrene foam Rough coating

Foam plastic must be protected from destruction with a film on uninhabited attic. In a frequently used or residential attic, you need to move somehow, so it is better to install an OSB subfloor on top of polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene or use a sand-cement screed.

Insulation of attic floors with sawdust

Sawdust is finely ground wood.

• naturalness;
• absence of toxic impurities;
• light weight;
• availability of material.

Technology of attic insulation with sawdust

• Before you start insulating them with sawdust, you need to prepare them. Namely, mix cement and water with sawdust in a ratio of 10:1:1.

• Pour the prepared mixture onto the attic floor and level it. It is worth noting that sawdust can only be used as insulation without using a frame in a non-residential attic. Otherwise, when walking on the floor, the sawdust will be compressed and the concrete screed will collapse.

• build a cellular structure from timber. Pour a solution with sawdust inside each cell. The advantage of this method is that a subfloor can be laid over the timber. And the attic will be usable

Insulation of attic floors with sawdust

Insulating the attic floor with expanded clay

Expanded clay is produced by firing clay.

The disadvantage is associated with the difficulty of lifting expanded clay to the height of the attic.

Expanded clay is usually used when it is necessary to insulate the attic floor using slabs.

Technology of attic insulation with expanded clay

The work is carried out in three stages:

• The slab is inspected for the presence of cracks and cracks. They are sealed with mortar or covered with thick paper. Protruding elements do not create difficulties with filling expanded clay.

• install timber sheathing. In the future, a subfloor will be laid on it.

• loose insulation is poured onto the slab and leveled using a regular rake. Layer thickness 250-300 mm. You can move on expanded clay without restrictions.

Insulating the attic floor with expanded clay Tip: when filling expanded clay, it is better to combine granules of different sizes (diameters). This way you can avoid the appearance of voids.

Finally, a subfloor is installed or filled with sand-cement screed.

Please note that insulating an attic wooden floor has some nuances:

• the tree is susceptible to rotting, which means the steam rising to the top must pass freely. Improper installation of films or the use of non-breathable materials, such as roofing felt, will lead to the destruction of wood in the future.

• When using foil insulation, you need to place it with the foil down. This way the wood will be protected from water and at the same time will not accumulate steam moisture.

Errors in attic insulation

• The “correct” way is to use a superdiffusion membrane or vapor barrier film

• “Wrong” is to lay a special film without taking into account the markings or even ordinary film

The attic floor insulation diagram for various types of insulation is shown below.

Attic floor insulation scheme – 1
Attic floor insulation scheme – 2

Conclusion

In this article, we focused on the main stages and features of insulating the attic floors of a private house using various types of insulation. We hope this information is useful to you.

Insulation of the attic floor with mineral wool, polystyrene foam, sawdust, expanded clay

How and how to insulate an attic floor with your own hands. Review of insulation materials and installation methods. Insulation of the attic floor with mineral wool, sawdust, polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam, as well as expanded clay

Insulation of cold attic floors: materials and methods

To understand why it is necessary to insulate the ceiling of a cold attic, let’s clarify a little why an attic is needed in a private house and what its purpose is. Our ancestors built houses that could stand for more than 100 years, while it was warm inside, and the wooden roof structure always remained dry.

Previously, gable roofs were mainly built with a slight slope of the slopes. This was done so that snow could remain on the roof in winter. Thus, snow was used as a natural insulation. One or two windows were made in the attic and kept closed in winter so that the trapped air acted as a heat insulator. In the summer, a slightly different situation occurred. Attic windows were opened at night so that the air cooled, and during the day, in hot weather, they were closed so that the air did not heat up too much, thus regulating its temperature.

When snow fell in winter, it fell as a continuous cover on the roof, simultaneously becoming a natural insulation. Even in severe frosts, the temperature in the attic did not drop below zero. Thus, the air in the attic and the insulation of the ceiling made it possible to maintain the temperature in the house at +20-25 °C. The roof slopes were not insulated to prevent the snow lying on the roof from melting. The rafter system remained open, allowing it to be inspected and repaired if necessary. Therefore, in a cold attic, only the ceiling is insulated.

If the roof slopes are insulated, then the attic becomes a heated room, i.e. an attic, which has a completely different functional purpose.

Now it remains to find out how to insulate the attic floor in a private house, and what materials are used for thermal insulation.

Materials for insulating attic floors

There is a wide range of insulation materials on the market. To make a choice, it is necessary to take into account the conditions in which the thermal insulation material will be used:

1. The material must retain its properties at temperatures ranging from -30 to +30 °C. It should not freeze in severe frosts and should not emit harmful substances in hot weather.
2. It is necessary to choose fire-resistant insulation if there is electrical wiring in the attic.
3. It is better to choose a moisture-resistant material so that when wet it does not lose its thermal insulation properties.
4. The insulation should not quickly cake in order to fulfill its purpose for as long as possible.

Before deciding on the type of material for insulating the floor of a cold attic in a private house, you need to consider what material the ceiling is made of. If the attic floor is made of wooden beams, then you can use slab, roll and bulk insulation. In the case where the attic floor is made of concrete slabs, they resort to the use of heavy bulk or dense slab heat insulators. Their use makes it possible to make a cement screed on the floor.

Materials produced in slab and mat formats:

• mineral wool (mineral wool) in mats;
• Styrofoam;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• seaweed;
• straw.

• mineral wool;
• glass wool;
• stone wool;
• seaweed ladders;

Bulk materials for attic floor insulation:

• expanded clay;
• ecowool;
• reed;
• sawdust;
• straw;
• slag;
• buckwheat tyrsa;
• foam granules.

Insulation of the attic floor in a wooden house must be done with environmentally friendly, natural and breathable material.

How to properly insulate an attic floor with mineral wool

Mineral wool is a common and modern heat insulator. Available in rolls or slabs (mats). It does not rot or burn, rodents and various kinds of microorganisms are also not afraid of it.

Insulating the ceiling of a cold attic with mineral wool begins with laying lining material on the floor. For a budget option, glassine is laid on the floor, but a more expensive and high-quality option is flooring made from vapor barrier film. The film is laid with an overlap, and the joints are taped or secured with wooden slats, which are fixed with a construction stapler.

The width of the insulation is selected based on the requirements of thermal engineering standards for each region. Mineral wool is placed between the joists tightly and without gaps. The joints are taped with tape. After the insulation is laid, level boards are simply laid on the joists, thus forming the floor in the attic. This simple solution for creating a floor allows the mineral wool to “breathe” and ventilate normally if it gets wet. To prevent moisture from entering the mineral wool, waterproofing material is laid under the roof.

Mineral wool is laid using personal protective equipment: thick clothing, goggles, gloves, respirator.

Insulation of attic floor slabs with extruded polystyrene foam

Expanded polystyrene or polystyrene foam are not very dense materials, so they are used when the attic floor is a structure made of joists and beams. If thermal insulation of the slabs is necessary, insulation of the cold attic floor with extruded polystyrene foam is used. This material is stronger and therefore denser than regular foam. Before laying it, the surface of the slabs should be leveled. There is no need for vapor barrier on the warm side of the floor, since concrete slabs have almost no vapor permeability.

A vapor barrier film is laid on the leveled concrete slabs. Next, slabs of extruded polystyrene foam are laid in a checkerboard pattern. The joints are blown with polyurethane foam. After the foam has dried and hardened, the insulating slabs are poured with concrete mortar 4-6 cm thick. When the screed is dry, it is already suitable for use as a floor. Although you can go further and put any floor covering on the screed.

Thermal insulation of a cold attic with ecowool

Ecowool is a cellulose, lightweight and loose insulation material, consisting mainly of waste paper and newspapers. Other components - borax and boric acid - are used as flame retardants.

Before insulation, it is necessary to place a film on the floor. The procedure for laying ecowool occurs using a special blowing installation. The insulation layer is applied as a continuous cover, without creating cracks. Since ecowool contains a large amount of air, a layer of 250-300 mm is usually enough.

Do not forget that over time, the material will shrink. Therefore, apply a layer of ecowool 40-50 mm more.

After the insulation of the cold attic floor with ecowool is completed, it must be moistened. You can do this with plain water or prepare a solution of 200 grams. PVA glue on a bucket of water. Soak a regular broom in this solution and moisten the cotton well. After drying, a crust forms on the surface of the cotton wool - lingin, which will not allow the cotton wool to move.

As you can see, there are plenty of ways to insulate the floor in the attic. Which one to use depends on each specific situation. The main thing is to follow the correct technology for laying thermal insulation! Then your home will always be warm, and the materials used will last for many years.

Insulating the ceiling of a cold attic with mineral wool, how to insulate the attic floor

How to insulate a ceiling in a cold attic. Insulating the attic floor with mineral wool and extruded polystyrene foam. How to properly insulate the floor in the attic.

How to insulate an attic in a private house with your own hands as efficiently and inexpensively as possible

I decided to dedicate this article to those people who want to insulate the attic of their house on their own without large financial costs. Next, we will get acquainted with thermal insulation materials suitable for these purposes and the nuances of their installation.

Stages of work

We will conditionally divide the insulation of an attic in a private house into:

Floor insulation

Floor insulation can also be divided into several steps:

Stages of floor thermal insulation

Preparation of materials

First you need to decide on the choice of thermal insulation material. There are quite a lot of options. However, our task is to insulate the ceiling with minimal financial costs.

• sawdust – thermal conductivity is 0.07 - 0.095 W/mºC. The main advantage of sawdust is that if there are wood processing plants nearby, they can be purchased very cheaply or even free.

Sawdust is an excellent natural insulation material.

The only thing, keep in mind that before using the sawdust it is necessary to dry it and also treat it with an antiseptic composition. Also, to protect sawdust from biological influences, you can use slaked lime, mixed with carbide.

If sawdust has traces of fungal infection, it cannot be used for insulation;

Reed insulation mat

• Reed is another natural material that can be obtained for free. The thermal conductivity of reeds does not exceed 0.042 W/(m.K).

Reeds for thermal insulation are harvested in late autumn with the onset of the first frosts, when the stems remain almost completely without foliage. Moreover, only mature plants can be used. Such stems are easily identified by their light yellow tint.

Penoizol is applied in liquid form

• penoizol is a modified polystyrene foam that is applied to the surface in the form of foam. The foam hardens within a few days.

Penoizol has a lower thermal conductivity than all the materials described above - 0.028 - 0.040 W/(m*K). In addition, penoizol is not susceptible to biological influences, does not burn and is not afraid of moisture.

The disadvantage of this material is that insulating the attic with foam insulation requires certain equipment. Accordingly, it will not be possible to cope with the work on your own. The cost of the material with the work of specialists is 1450-1500 rubles per cubic meter.

True, you can use dry penoizol in bags, but in this case its price will increase to 2000-2300 rubles per cubic meter;

Expanded clay for thermal insulation of floors

• Expanded clay is an environmentally friendly and fireproof natural material that is sold in the form of durable granules. The cost of expanded clay starts on average from 1000 rubles per cubic meter, which allows it to be classified as a budget insulation material.

The disadvantage of expanded clay is its higher thermal conductivity 0.1 – 0.18 W/(m*K). That's why For high-quality thermal insulation of the ceiling, expanded clay must be poured in a layer of at least 20 cm.

• mineral wool is also an environmentally friendly and fireproof material with low thermal conductivity (0.038 to 0.055 W/m*K). Typically, mineral wool is sold in the form of mats or rolls. Its main disadvantage is the rather high cost - from 2300-2500 rubles per cube of basalt mats.

True, you can use stone wool in rolls, the cost of which starts from 1,500 rubles per cubic meter. But, this material is less environmentally friendly than basalt wool.

Recently, cellulose-based insulation – ecowool – has become widespread. This material is treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant, therefore it is fireproof and not susceptible to biological influences. The cost of ecowool is 1200-1500 rubles per cubic meter.

Everyone must choose the best way to insulate an attic in a private home, depending on the needs and availability of a particular heat insulator.

In addition to thermal insulation, you will need other materials:

• vapor barrier membrane;
• boards, OSB sheets or other material that can be laid on floor beams;
• antiseptic impregnation for wood.

Floor preparation

You can begin insulating the attic floor only after completing the following preparatory work:

• if there is a flooring on the floor beams, it must be dismantled;
• then the wooden beams must be treated with antiseptic impregnation. Instructions for the use of such compositions are available on the packaging;
• if there is no bevel (lining) of the ceiling, it needs to be done. To do this, you can nail boards to the beams from the inside, i.e. from the side of the room.

This completes the preparation.

Floor insulation

Insulation of the attic floor is carried out as follows:

1. A vapor barrier membrane needs to be laid on the joists and eaves. The stripes must overlap each other. For reliability, the joints should be taped;
2. Now the thermal insulation is being installed. Mineral mats must be positioned so that they fit tightly to the floor beams and to each other. The same applies to rolled material;

Example of laying mineral wool

1. lay another layer of vapor barrier on top of the floor beams and thermal insulation with your own hands and glue it with tape;
2. then boards or other material are laid on the floor beams. If the attic will be used as a living space, you can install joists to level the surface and lay a subfloor on top.

If the house has a concrete floor, to insulate the attic, you need to lay mineral mats or extruded polystyrene foam on the slab and pour a screed. In this case, the insulation on both sides must be covered with a waterproofing film, especially if mineral mats are used.

It must be said that the ceiling can be insulated not only from the outside, but also from the side of the room. True, in this case the choice of insulation is limited, since it will not be possible to use bulk materials.

Ceiling insulation mineral mats

As an example, let's look at how to insulate a ceiling in a private house with isover, i.e. mineral mats:

1. First of all, it is necessary to dismantle the roll. In this case, it is advisable to lay boards on top of the beams and secure them;
2. a vapor barrier membrane is then attached to the beams and boards. To fix it, you can use a stapler;
3. Now mineral mats should be laid in the space between the beams. To fix them, you can use slats located across the beams. Also, nails are often nailed to the beams, and threads are pulled between them;

Fastening the vapor barrier with a stapler

1. after this you need to attach another layer of vapor barrier to the beams;
2. To complete the work, you need to roll up, after which you can start arranging the ceiling.

Roof insulation

In most cases, roof insulation is not required. But, if you are going to use the attic space as a living space, then you cannot do without this procedure.

Do-it-yourself roof insulation in a private house can also be divided into several stages:

Stages of attic insulation

Preparation of materials

Since it is inconvenient to use bulk materials for roof insulation, you can use mineral mats. To save even more, you can make mats from reeds.

In addition to insulation, you will need the following set of materials:

• vapor barrier;
• nails and threads;
• wooden slats;
• antiseptic impregnation.

Treating rafters with an antiseptic

Roof preparation

Before you start insulating the roof, you need to do some preparatory work:

1. First of all, inspect the rafter system for its integrity. If any parts are cracked or rotten, they must be replaced or repaired;
2. if the thickness of the insulation exceeds the thickness of the joists, they must be increased. To do this, nail beams or boards of sufficient thickness to them;
3. then all wooden structures must be treated with an antiseptic composition to protect them from biological influences.

Roof insulation

Do-it-yourself roof insulation in a private house is carried out as follows:

1. The vapor barrier membrane should not touch the roof waterproofing. To provide space between these materials, you need to nail nails to the rafters and stretch the threads between them in a zigzag pattern;

Attaching vapor barrier to rafters

1. Next, secure the vapor barrier membrane to the rafters with a stapler or small nails. Let me remind you that the smooth side of the vapor barrier should be facing the insulation. Tape the joints of the film with tape;

Insulating the space between the rafters with mineral wool

1. Now you need to lay the insulation in the space between the rafters. To avoid cold bridges in the thermal insulation, place the mats close to the rafters and to each other . If gaps do form, they need to be filled with scraps of insulation..

To fix the thermal insulation between the rafters, you can also nail nails and stretch threads between them;

• after laying the insulation, you need to attach another layer of vapor barrier to the rafters;

1. to complete the work, you need to perform the sheathing using slats or boards about 2 cm thick, to which finishing materials can be attached.

Insulation of gables

Now all that remains is to insulate the gables, if, of course, they exist. It must be said that it is more expedient to insulate them from the outside in parallel with the insulation of the entire facade. However, if the facade will not be insulated, then thermal insulation must be done from the inside.

For this we will need the same materials as for finishing the roof. The only thing besides them is to prepare beams or boards. Their width should correspond to the width of the insulation.

The insulation work is similar to the thermal insulation of ordinary walls:

1. in order to provide ventilation space between the walls and the insulation, the slats must be secured to the gables in a horizontal position. The vertical step should be about half a meter, and the horizontal step should be several centimeters.

Installation diagram of slats on gables for arranging a ventilation gap

Keep in mind that the slats must form a smooth vertical plane. Therefore, if the gables are uneven, the slats must be leveled during installation;

1. then a vapor barrier membrane is attached to the slats. During installation, make sure that the film does not sag;
2. then installed vertical racks(bars or boards). To fix them, you can use self-tapping screws and metal corners. Make the distance between the posts a couple of centimeters less than the width of the mats;

An example of laying mineral mats in the space between the racks

1. Now the space between the racks must be filled with insulation. If the racks are installed correctly, the mats will fit tightly and no additional fixation will be required;
2. then attach a vapor barrier to the racks;

1. At the end of the work, install the sheathing.

Now all that remains is to complete the finishing. Choice finishing materials depends on the purpose of the home and the attic itself. If the house is used for permanent residence, and the attic will be heated, you can cover it with plasterboard and use any finishing materials.

Finishing a cold attic should be done with materials that are not afraid of low temperatures. Therefore, it is better to avoid using wallpaper and plastic panels.

Insulating an attic yourself, as you can see, is not at all difficult. Therefore, you can safely get to work, the only thing I recommend is that you first watch the video in this article. If any nuances are not clear to you, contact me with questions in the comments, and I will gladly help you "width=”640″ height=”360″ frameborder=”0″ allowfullscreen=”allowfullscreen”>

Insulating an attic yourself, as you can see, is not at all difficult. Therefore, you can safely get to work.

Insulating an attic in a private house with your own hands: the better to insulate, video and photo

Insulating an attic in a private house with your own hands: the better to insulate, video and photo

If you need to turn a cold attic in a private house into a living space: a children's or guest room, a workshop, a gym, it is not necessary to add a floor with new roof. You can turn a pitched roof into a classic attic. This is much simpler than constructing a capital superstructure, and also cheaper. We tell you how to insulate a cold attic.

We insulate the attic correctly

Differences between an attic and an attic

The main difference is in the insulation system and the method of ventilation of the space. In the first case, the floor of a cold attic is insulated, and ventilation occurs using a ventilation chamber. An example diagram of attic insulation is shown in the photo.

1 - Wooden rafter system
2 - Stone wool insulation
3 — Vapor barrier film
4 — Superdiffusion membrane
5 - Sparse sheathing
6 - Sparse sheathing of the ceiling of a living space
7 - Sparse sheathing and wooden decking with roofing

In the attic - using energy-saving materials. Ventilation of the roofing pie occurs as a hinged ventilated facade, with the help of counter beams that create channels for air movement and removal of moisture from the structure. Flexible tiles are used as a roofing layer, which do not fade in the sun and do not deform under the influence of temperature and precipitation. It is also necessary when constructing roofs with complex geometry and the presence of protruding elements: roof windows, pipes, antennas, aerators.

1 — Wooden rafter system 2 — Vapor barrier film

3 — Stone wool insulation 4 — Superdiffusion membrane

5 — Counter beam for creating a ventilation duct 6 — Sparse sheathing

7 — Wooden flooring 8 — Underlayment carpet 9 — Mastic for gluing flexible tiles 10 — Multilayer tiles

Choice of insulation

The material for insulating the attic of a private house can be polystyrene foam, basalt wool or polyurethane foam; often even ordinary sawdust is used - a very dangerous solution in the event of a fire. Good insulation, especially for a wooden house, must have a whole range of additional properties: fire safety, vapor permeability, resistance to rodents and mold.

Modern manufacturers have a range of slabs for stone wool. This is a lightweight, hydrophobized, non-flammable heat and sound insulating material. In addition, ecowool is based on natural components with improved environmental characteristics and a service life of more than 100 years. Thanks to the optimal density ratio and random arrangement of fibers, the slabs do not shrink and absorb sound waves well.

Step-by-step plan for attic insulation

1. Dismantling the old roofing

After dismantling the old roofing, you need to check the condition of the rafter system. It may need to be increased. Then check the structures for fungal and insect damage. If these problems exist, they should be changed. Treat all wooden structures with an antiseptic. It will protect the wood from insects, fungus and mold, and when exposed to critically high temperatures or fire, it will not allow the wood to maintain combustion.

2. Attaching the vapor barrier film

Installation of the future attic wall begins with attaching a vapor barrier film to the rafters on the inside of the room. The overlap of the material must be at least 10 cm. You can attach the film to the rafters using a construction stapler, and create a continuous vapor barrier using a special acrylic tape. This tape is used to glue the film sheets together and gluing them to walls and passage elements.

3. Preparing the base

Next, wooden boards are nailed on top of the vapor barrier film from the inside of the room at intervals of about 15 cm. They will serve as the basis for the interior decoration of the room.

4. Laying insulation

Effective installation is carried out from the outside of the roof. The insulation scheme is very simple: the insulation is laid in three layers in the space between the rafters.

The recommended distance between the logs in this case is 600 mm (along the axes) or 580-590 mm “in the clear”. The width of the insulation slabs is 600 mm, which allows the material to be laid in spacers, without waste and extra effort for pruning. The thickness of the thermal insulation layer is calculated taking into account the characteristics of the construction region, as well as the purpose of the building.

It is important to ensure that the joints between the layers are made staggered, this will avoid possible gaps in the thermal insulation. It is recommended to use stone wool, since this material is non-flammable and easy to install. At the same time, the thickness of the insulation is small.

Before laying in the area of ​​the eaves overhang, it is necessary to attach a transverse board between the rafters, which will prevent the insulation from falling out of the under-roof space.

5. Laying a hydro- and windproof membrane

The membrane does not allow moisture-saturated warm air vapors from the living room to pass into the system. It is attached to the rafters with a construction stapler, allows steam to escape well from the roofing structure and protects the insulation from getting wet and swelling of the top layer. It is recommended to install the membrane from the eaves overhang up to the ridge, with membrane tapes overlapping at a distance of at least 10 cm and the seams must be taped. From below, the ceiling is hemmed with large-sheet material: OSB-3 boards, plywood or gypsum plasterboard sheets.

It is very important not to lay vapor barrier film on both sides of the insulation. This can lead to waterlogging of the material inside the system and loss of the thermal insulation properties of the slabs and the entire floor.

6. Creation of a ventilation system

To create the entire length of the rafters, bars with a cross section of 5 cm are nailed or screwed on top of the membrane. This allows you to create the necessary ventilation duct from the eaves to the ridge to remove excess moisture. Thanks to this, there will be no ice formation in the under-roof space in winter, and the insulation will retain all its energy-saving properties. It is important to take into account that bars with a cross section of 5 cm are relevant when the slope is tilted more than 20 degrees. If it is smaller, then a block with a cross section of 8 cm will be required.

Sheathing boards are mounted horizontally on top of the bars, on which the boardwalk will then lie. The sheathing pitch is approximately 30 cm, selected depending on the thickness of the solid wooden flooring.

7. Installation of plank flooring

The last stage before installing a flexible tile system is the installation of a boardwalk made of moisture-resistant plywood or OSB-3 board. When laying the flooring, it is necessary to leave a gap of 3-5 mm between the slabs - it compensates for the expansion of the slabs under the influence of temperature and moisture.

8. Laying flexible tiles

Produced using the same technology as for any pitched roof. With detailed step by step instructions Laying flexible tiles on board flooring can be found on our website or in the video.

Thanks to stone wool insulation, OSB-3 board and flexible tiles the design has high noise insulation and energy saving properties. And the problem of insulating the floors of a cold attic is solved in a few days.

And centralized heating systems have fundamental differences that are taken into account when choosing equipment. The operating mode of autonomous heating of a private house allows you to select radiators based on the maximum heat transfer coefficient, materials with best characteristics, high quality and optimal price. The operating conditions of heating equipment in apartments are very different - here reliability and load resistance are in the foreground. Let's figure out which heating radiators are best installed in an apartment, where and how to buy them, and what users say in reviews about this equipment.

There are two fundamentally different types of home heating: centralized (open) and autonomous (closed). In the first case, steam or hot water from the boiler house or thermal power plant enters the apartments through pipes multi-storey buildings. The second option is a separate heating system for a private house or cottage, including its own boiler, heat supply pipelines, radiators and pumps.

When determining which heating radiators are best for an apartment, we proceed from the operating conditions of radiators in such systems:

1. temperature from 100°C;
2. pressure up to 10 atm;
3. sudden pressure surges and hydraulic shocks when flushing systems and restarting.

When choosing a radiator, the consumer must know the load limits for the model in question.

Cast iron radiators

Resistant to high pressure and water hammer. There are models that can cope with heavy loads, but do not meet aesthetic needs. Such samples include cast iron batteries, known to us since Soviet times. A good example of modern cast iron radiators can be considered retro-style batteries that fit perfectly into the interior.

The advantages of cast iron radiators include:

1. operating pressure 6 – 10 atm, peak loads 18 or more atm;
2. installation with different types pipes;
3. long service life;
4. high heat output (100 – 200 W);
5. quick size change if necessary;
6. minimal corrosion.

Disadvantages of cast iron radiators:

1. heavy weight;
2. fragility;
3. slow heating and cooling, inability to control temperature.

Bimetallic radiators

Steel and aluminum are used to produce such batteries. The inner surface of such radiators, which plays the role of coolant, is steel.

Advantages of bimetallic radiators:

1. working pressure more than 35 atm;
2. anti-corrosion resistance;
3. fast heating and cooling, lack of inertia;
4. modern attractive design;
5. light weight;
6. easy set of the required number of sections.

The disadvantage is the high cost.

A comparison of the two options does not reveal the superiority of any of them. Cast iron batteries cost 250 - 400 rubles per section in a conventional version and 1,500 - 6,000 rubles in a “retro” version. Prices bimetallic radiators 400 - 1500 rubles per section, imported ones are more expensive. Externally, bimetallic batteries look more attractive: they are more compact, more modern, and easy to clean. Based on the cost, we consider bimetallic radiators to be more preferable for apartments.

The photo shows bimetallic radiators for an apartment

Which heating radiators are best to choose for a private home?

Autonomous heating systems for private housing are distinguished by other operating conditions: low pressure and the absence of water hammer in the networks. The choice of radiators in this case is based on maximum heat transfer, price and quality. Any of the existing radiators is suitable for heating a private home. Let's briefly look at the types of such equipment in order to choose which radiators are best for heating a private home.

Tubular and panel radiators made of steel

Such radiators are compact and visually attractive.

Advantages of steel radiators:

1. high efficiency;
2. resistance to corrosion with properly prepared water;
3. long service life;
4. compactness and light weight;
5. low price.

Flaws:

1. not very good design;
2. the need for periodic washing;
3. the need for constant filling to prevent corrosion.

Aluminum radiators

Are different modern design and excellent heat dissipation. Imported models are much more expensive than Russian ones, but we recommend buying them.

Special operating requirements:

• Careful control of the acidity of the coolant - aluminum quickly corrodes if this condition is not met.
• Due to the high thermal power, uneven heat distribution in the room is possible. Before purchasing radiators, accurate calculations are required.

Overall, very good radiators for heating a home. If the operating instructions are followed, they will last quite a long time. The price of aluminum radiators is relatively low.

Bimetallic radiators

Combined radiators made of steel (internal part) and aluminum fins. Such radiators are treated with a primer against corrosion. They can withstand pressures of up to 20-35 atm and are unpretentious to the composition of circulating water.

The main disadvantage is the high cost. There are no water hammers or high pressure with autonomous heating, and the use of expensive radiators is impractical.

Cast iron radiators

The high thermal inertia of these radiators reduces the cost of heating a home. Cast iron batteries are resistant to corrosion. They are priced higher than aluminum and steel ones, but much lower than bimetallic ones.

The disadvantages of cast iron batteries are fragility and heavy weight.

When choosing which heating batteries are best for a private home, you need to consider two groups - steel or aluminum batteries. Aluminum ones are more interesting - they are lighter, more economical and give off more heat.

The photo shows ideal aluminum radiators for a country house

Which bimetallic heating radiators are better?

The choice of bimetallic batteries is large - the models are different in design, characteristics, design and cost. By comparing the characteristics of different radiators, we will determine which bimetallic heating radiators are better.

Bimetallic and semi-bimetallic radiators

Bimetallic radiators have aluminum only at the top. They are made from steel and then filled with aluminum under pressure. The coolant is in contact with the steel. There are models whose interior is made of copper. Such radiators are used with coolant to which antifreeze is added.

The interior of semi-bimetallic batteries consists of two metals: steel and aluminum. The best models of such radiators are produced by Sira, Rifar, Gordi. They are not cheap, but the quality is excellent.

Bimetallic radiators, sectional and monolithic

Monolithic radiators are distinguished by a solid steel or copper collector, onto which an aluminum “jacket” is placed. This design is called monolithic. Radiators of this type are more reliable than sectional ones, the weak point of which is the joints between sections. Characteristics of monolithic radiators:

• service life up to 40 years (2 times longer than sectional ones);
• operating pressure up to 100 bar (3 times more than sectional ones);
• thermal power per section 100-200 W (equal to sectional).

The cost of monolithic radiators is approximately 20% higher than sectional ones, and it is impossible to change the size by adding or removing sections. Big choice models allows you to select the desired radiator.

Manufacturers of bimetallic radiators

Imported radiators are represented on the Russian market by Italian, South Korean, and Polish companies.

Italian radiators

Represented by equipment from Sira, Global Style and Radena. Cost 700 – 1500 rubles per section, service life from 20 years. Main characteristics:

• section thermal power 120 – 185 watts;
• maximum water temperature – 110°C;
• operating pressure up to 35 bar.

South Korean radiators

MARS batteries with a copper core costing from 400 rubles with the following characteristics:

• section thermal power 167 watts;
• maximum water temperature – 130°C;
• operating pressure up to 20 bar.

Polish radiators

The REGULUS-system equipment with a copper core is well known in Russia.

Characteristics:

• operating pressure – 15 bar;
• maximum water temperature – 110°C.

Russian radiators

The most famous batteries are from the manufacturer Rifar, costing 500 - 900 rubles per section.

Characteristics:

• section thermal power 100 – 200 watts;
• maximum water temperature – 135°C;
• operating pressure up to 20 bar.

Chinese radiators

They are characterized by low cost, modest design and low quality. If the budget does not allow you to buy high-quality equipment, then you can get by with cheap “Chinese” ones. Of course, you cannot count on high performance.

In my opinion, the RIFAR MONOLIT radiator is considered the best Russian product. Characteristics: section thermal power 134 – 196 watts; maximum water temperature – 135 °C; operating pressure up to 100 bar.

The photo shows a RIFAR brand radiator

Which aluminum radiators are better?

Aluminum radiators are produced by Russian and foreign companies in a wide range. Among the main manufacturers:

Rifar, Russia

The best Russian company. Prices are higher than the Russian average - an average of 580 rubles per section. Main characteristics:

• working pressure up to 20 atm (maximum 30 atm);
• maximum coolant temperature 135°C;
• 10 year warranty, 25 year service life.

Royal Termo, Russia

Co-production with Italians. Available models:

1. Thermo revolution;
2. Thermo Dream Liner;
3. Thermo Indigo.

Characteristics:

• working pressure – up to 20 atm;
• thermal power 170 – 185 watts.

Radiators are manufactured using patented technologies.

VitaTerm, Russia

Aluminum alloys with magnesium, lithium and titanium are used for production.

Characteristics:

• thermal power 140 – 184 W;
• operating pressure 16 atm (test pressure 24 atm).

Global, Italy

The well-known Italian manufacturer offers radiators of excellent quality and elegant design. A section of such a radiator costs about 400 rubles. One of the best offers on the market, considering the price and quality.

SMART, China

Budget option for aluminum radiators. The design is simple, universal, good quality. The cost of the section is about 300 rubles.

Choosing an aluminum radiator is not difficult - there are many offers in different technical and price categories. If you choose from domestic equipment, then Rifar radiators will be a worthy purchase; among imported ones, we recommend the Italian Global. Of course, the proposals are very general - the buyer should base his choice on his own capabilities and needs.

The photo shows a Global brand radiator

Which heating radiators are better - aluminum or bimetallic?

Let's start with the comparison of bimetallic and aluminum radiators with the design and characteristics of the batteries.

1. Aluminum radiators consist of separate sections that are connected by nipples. Gaskets are installed between the sections. The fins on the inside increase the heat transfer area.

2. Bimetallic radiators consist of a steel core and aluminum body with ribs.

Comparative characteristics:

• In terms of heat transfer, aluminum is much preferable - within 10 minutes after switching on the room is warm.
• Aluminum radiators have a lower operating pressure (up to 20 atm) than bimetallic radiators (up to 40 atm), i.e. they can only be installed in autonomous heating systems of private houses.
• Aluminum radiators are more sensitive to the quality of the coolant. When the pH rises above 8, aluminum batteries will quickly fail.
• The maximum temperature for bimetallic batteries (130°C) is higher than for aluminum batteries (110°C).
• The service life of bimetallic batteries is 15-20 years, aluminum - 10 years.
• The cost of bimetallic radiators is 20–35% higher than aluminum ones.

When choosing radiators, you need to take into account the conditions in which they will have to work. For autonomous heating of a private house, aluminum batteries are more suitable, for an apartment in a high-rise building - bimetallic ones.

Installation and installation of heating radiators

The high cost of installing heating radiators in an apartment or private house often forces owners to carry out this work themselves. The cost of heating installation work depends on the total volume, number of installation elements, selected connection diagram, type and model of radiators, etc.

To install heating radiators yourself, you must:

1. become familiar with connection methods;
2. know the connection rules;
3. correctly calculate and accurately measure the location of radiators;
4. have the necessary tools for installation.

The heating battery is installed to ensure maximum heating efficiency. The greatest heat loss is through windows, so placing radiators under the windows creates thermal curtain, preventing heat from escaping.

The installation of heating radiators must be done strictly at right angles in the horizontal and vertical planes - incorrect placement leads to air accumulation and rapid corrosion of the radiator.

Distances that must be ensured during installation for normal heat exchange and warm air circulation:

• from the top grille of the battery to the window sill - 5-10 cm;
• from the bottom edge of the battery to the floor – 8-12 cm;
• from the radiator to the wall – 2-5 cm;
• When installing reflective thermal insulation on a wall, you should purchase longer retaining hooks.

Calculation of the number of radiator sections

When buying radiators, find out how to calculate required quantity sections. It is better to assemble the sections in the store when purchasing batteries. Remember a simple rule: one section is used for heating 2 square meters area with a ceiling height of 2.7 m. Make roundings upward.

To install radiators you will need the following tools:

1. pliers;
2. screwdriver;
3. hammer drill;
4. pipe wrench;
5. construction level;
6. tape measure, pencil.

Replacing the battery is done in the following order:

1. the old battery is dismantled;
2. markings are made for attaching a new one;
3. brackets and battery canopy are installed;
4. assembly kit is assembled;
5. a valve, a valve under the thermal head and a Mayevsky valve are installed;
6. heating pipes are connected.

Particularly common is the installation of heating radiators with a bottom connection, in which hot water is introduced into the bottom of the radiator and discharged from the bottom of the other side. Such radiators are more attractive in appearance, fit perfectly into the interior and allow you to hide the pipework under the floor.

Thermostats for heating radiators

To regulate the heat supply during the heating season, we recommend installing a thermostat on each radiator. Installing a thermostat on a heating radiator is described in detail on websites on the Internet. More complex programmable thermostats will automatically turn radiators on and off to maintain the desired temperature. You can install thermostats on each battery when two-pipe heating, typical for a private house. With a single-pipe system (in apartment buildings), to install a thermostat, a bypass is installed in front of the radiator - a pipe perpendicular between the supply and the “return”. The diameter of the bypass pipe is always smaller than the diameter of the distribution pipes.

If the radiators are covered with thick curtains to the floor, the circulation of warm air is disrupted and only the window is heated. The window sill covering the top of the battery also interferes with normal air circulation. The efficiency of the heating radiator is reduced by 20%.

Heating radiator connection diagrams

Basic radiator connection diagrams:

1. Lateral one-way connection

The most commonly used and provides maximum heat transfer. The inlet pipe is connected to the upper branch pipe, the outlet pipe to the lower one.

2. Bottom connection

It is used if heating pipes are hidden under the floor or baseboard. Aesthetically the most successful way. The supply and return pipes from below go vertically to the floor.

3. Diagonal connection

This is done with a large number of sections (more than 12). The supply pipe is connected to the upper pipe on one side, and the return pipe is discharged from the opposite side through the lower pipe. The Mayevsky valve on radiators serves to remove excess air. The connection is inconvenient because when replacing or repairing a radiator, you need to turn off the entire heating system

4. Parallel connection

With this connection, the coolant is supplied through a heat pipe that is built into the heating system. The withdrawal also occurs. Inlet and outlet valves allow you to replace the radiator without shutting down the system as a whole. The disadvantage of this scheme is that at low pressure the radiator heats up poorly.

conclusions

1. When choosing radiators for a private house or apartment in a high-rise building, you should take into account the operating conditions typical for autonomous or centralized heat supply. Cast iron or bimetallic radiators are suitable for an apartment; aluminum or cast iron are suitable for a private house. For the rest, you need to be guided by specific conditions: interior requirements, financial capabilities, equipment cost, manufacturer reliability, etc.
2. We recommend checking the calculation of the required number of radiator sections for a specific room by receiving the seller’s recommendations upon purchase.
3. During installation, it is necessary to maintain all the necessary distances of the radiator from the floor, walls, etc., as well as the horizontal position of its position in different planes. A thermostat installed on radiators helps you save money - you can turn off unnecessary radiators or set an automatic temperature maintenance mode.

Article outline

Buying a heating radiator (HR) is not a trivial task. There are many models, they cost differently, and it is not always clear which of those presented on store shelves meets our requirements. Therefore, we will save your time and tell you what to consider when choosing. We present to your attention rating of the 20 best heating radiators for apartments and private houses. Choose any of them - you won't go wrong!

For a private house or apartment?

There are dozens and hundreds of companies specializing in the production of radioactive materials. The competition is crazy. Marketers are coming up with new arguments in favor of their products. This makes the choice of characteristics richer, and making a purchase more difficult for the average buyer. Let's start with the simplest thing.

If you need a device for a private house or apartment with an individual heating system, then choose by power and design. Those. We saw a model we liked in appearance, selected it based on power/size – and that’s it. For an apartment in multi-storey building where the coolant is supplied through the pipes of a centralized heating system, you also need to take into account the operating pressure set by the manufacturer. It should not be lower than 10-12 atmospheres. Otherwise, the structure will tear when water is supplied.

Now let’s look at the types of heating radiators, traditionally presenting the data in the form of a “tiny” table.

Device options and their features

Comparison criterion	Varieties	Characteristics
Execution	Sectional	+ it’s convenient to vary the power of the device by changing the number of sections – collapsible design – risk of leaks at joints with poor quality gaskets
	Tubular	+ similar to sectional ones, but without their disadvantages - high price
	Panel	+ minimal risk of leaks, easier to select by size, quick control of the temperature of the RO (due to the smaller volume of coolant inside) – many models are designed for relatively low pressure and are only suitable for use in private homes that have a heating system with a circulation pump
Radiator material	Cast iron	+ durable, inexpensive - heavy, only sectional, with high thermal inertia, which does not allow you to quickly regulate the temperature in the room, the design of available devices is not for everyone - more interesting models are expensive
	Steel	+ variety of types of structures made from this material, fast heating, affordable price – susceptibility to corrosion caused by the use of low-quality alloys. Due to the relative simplicity of production, you may encounter inexpensive products from unscrupulous manufacturers. Accordingly, such companies use the cheapest steel, while the thickness of the radiator walls is minimal. All this causes rapid failure of the RO.
	Aluminum	+ lightweight and durable, easy installation, due to low thermal inertia they allow you to quickly change the room temperature - more expensive than steel ones, due to special requirements for the coolant - suitable only for individual heating systems (in private houses or apartments with a heating boiler)
	Bimetal (steel+aluminium)	+ considered more durable than aluminum and steel - high price
	Copper	+ durable, high heat dissipation – direct connection to steel pipes is unacceptable, high cost, impossibility of painting
Gasket material	Silicone	Withstands high temperatures, effectively compensating for the expansion of metal structures. Ideal for low pressure heating systems, for example in private homes.
	Paronitis	Paronite is pressed rubber mixed with asbestos and other components. Durable, withstands high temperatures. It is most often used in centralized heating systems.
	Fluoroplastic	A product made of heat-resistant polymer that can be installed without lubrication. Withstands exposure to any type of coolant.
	Cardboard	Impregnated with oil paint, special cardboard successfully copes with its function in aluminum and bimetallic RO installed in private homes.
Coolant	Water	We are not talking about plain water, but about specially prepared water. This is exactly what circulates in the centralized heating system. It limits the content of hardness salts (due to which salt deposits form in the pipes - scale) and oxygen (due to which the material corrodes and breaks down). Water requirements in the EU and the Russian Federation are different, so when purchasing a foreign-made heating radiator, it is recommended to take into account the chemical composition of the water in your heating system. If desired, you can find it out at the Housing Office.
	Antifreeze	Antifreezes or “anti-freeze” agents are used for systems with an individual heating circuit. They are needed if there is a risk of the coolant freezing due to the boiler being turned off. As you know, coolant is always in the system. If, for example, in winter the water in the system freezes, then due to expansion it will rupture the pipes, radiator, etc. Antifreeze at medium sub-zero temperatures don't freeze. Ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, and alcohol solutions can serve as such coolants.
Installation location	Stationary	Traditional heating radiators installed in most apartments. Mounting to the wall is carried out using special pin or corner brackets
	Floor-standing	The same as stationary devices, only they are installed on special legs.
Operating pressure*	up to 10 atm.	Such values ​​are predominantly typical for panel-type devices.
	up to 20 atm. and higher	For tubular and sectional RO.
Center distance	350, 400, 500, 600, 700 mm	The distance between the axes of horizontal collectors, along which a device is selected for connection to the existing pipe distribution.
Connection method	Lateral one-sided. (subtype of side connection)	The most common and effective solution in terms of using the capabilities of RO. Connection from the side: from above - to the pipe supplying coolant, from below - to the outlet.
	Diagonal (subtype of lateral connection)	Most often used when connecting long devices (from 2 m and above), which allows the coolant to be evenly distributed throughout the entire volume of the structure. Inlet from above, outlet from the lower opposite side.
	Saddle (subtype of side connection)	For sectional ROs when it is impossible to use other methods. Inlet and outlet from the side from below different sides device. In this case, the heat exchanger power may drop by 10-20%.
	Lower	For connecting panel RO with hidden pipe routing under the floor. Inlet and outlet from below at a short distance. The efficiency of the radiator is lower than with lateral and diagonal connections.
Thermal power**	values ​​in a wide range	Characterizes the radiator’s ability to transfer a certain amount of heat from the coolant to the room per hour of operation. It depends not only on the size and design of the RO, but also on the temperature of the coolant, as well as the air in the room.
Dimensions	On average: height from 260 to 800 mm, width from 270 to 1800 mm, depth from 50 to 100 mm	Directly affect the thermal power of the device, because The volume of coolant circulating in the device depends on this.

* Before choosing a device, you need to check with the housing office about the maximum pressure in the heating system. Remember that all radiators except aluminum ones are suitable for a centralized heating system!

** We are often asked about how to choose the right heating radiator based on power. To make life easier for you and yourself, we have developed a convenient calculator. Enjoy it for your health!

For those who want to estimate the thermal power on their own, you can use the following method. We determine the required values ​​per unit area of ​​the room: 100 W/m2 – one window and one external wall; 120 W/m2 – one window and two external walls(corner room); 130 W/m2 – two windows and two external walls (corner room). For example, there is a corner room of 20 m2 with two windows. Then the approximate power of the RO will be: 20 × 130 = 2600 W. Let's make an allowance for the fact that the passport characteristics of radiators are tied to ideal conditions device operation – 10% is quite enough. In total, we get the required thermal power: 2600 × 1.1 = 2860 W.

All that remains is to decide on the desired model, which you can find among the 20 devices we have selected.

Brief description of RO models from the rating

Brand and country of manufacture	Model and section/panel dimensions (W×H×D)	Material, rated heat flux per section/panel, W	Approximate price per unit/section
1.	STYLE PLUS 500 (80×575×95)	bimetal, 185	from 1041 rub.
2.	ALP-500 (81×570×75 mm)	bimetal, 158	from 630 rub.
3.	RS 500 (80×572×95)	bimetal, 201	from 850 rub.
4.	Monolit 500 (80×577×100)	bimetal, 196	from 850 rub.
5.	PianoForte 500 (80×591×100)	bimetal, 185	from 1500 rub.
6.	ISEO 500 (80×582×80)	aluminum, 180	from 790 rub.
7.	Standard Plus 500 (79×531×72)	aluminum, 198	from 400 rub.
8.	Al 500/80 (79×531×72)	aluminum, 170	from 420 rub.
9.	ALICE ROYAL 95/500 (80×580×95)	aluminum, 190	from 560 rub.
10.	Indigo 500 (80×591×100)	aluminum, 185	from 630 rub.
11.	Logatrend K-Profil 33 300 1200 (1200×300×155)	steel, 670	from 2000 rub.
12.	Harmony 2-500-12 (70×545×80)	steel, 180	from 2250 rub.
13.	type 22 500×1000 LU 22-510 (1000×500×47)	steel, 697	from 2850 rub.
14.	FKO 22 0510 (1000×500×100)	steel, 965	from 2650 rub.
15.	Style (60×580×130)	cast iron, 70	from 1500 rub.
16.	MS-140M-05 (104×588×140)	cast iron, 160	from 500 rub.
17.	Modern 3-745/600 (45×745×100)	cast iron, 102	from 2000 rub.
18.	Aero H (325×900)	steel, 290	from 41,000 rub.
19.	Karotherm KM90 (500×943×22)	steel, 481	from 100,000 rub.
20.	Apollo 765/05 (76×768×250)	cast iron, 145	from 6600 rub.

In addition to the heat exchanger itself, do not forget about the control valves (thermal head) and the Mayevsky tap (if not included), which must be purchased separately. In some cases, the same applies to installation kits. Single-pipe heating systems will require a bypass.

We offer you a small rating that contains best models heating radiators. To make it easier to compare, we tried to select devices with the same number of sections - most often there will be 6 of them. This border solution is most in demand for standard apartments. All prices are for comparison purposes only.

5 bimetallic radiators

1. Global STYLE PLUS 500, 6 sections – from 4600 rub.

STYLE PLUS 500 model of the famous Italian manufacturer Global. A special feature of STYLE PLUS 500 is an increased safety margin - the product can withstand pressure up to 35 atmospheres - as well as an increased diameter of the vertical channels connecting horizontal collectors. To seal the connections of the sections, special silicone gaskets are used, designed for contact only with treated water - other types of coolants are not allowed. This bimetallic product is designed in such a way that air pockets do not form inside, preventing the correct operation of the device. Warranty – 10 years.

2. RIFAR ALP-500, bimetal, 6 sections – from 3800 rub.

In 2002, the Russian company Rifar quickly burst into the production of heating radiators for private houses and apartments, and since then has achieved considerable success. The main specialization of RIFAR is the development and production of bimetallic and aluminum devices. In the RIFAR ALP-500 bimetallic radiator model, high heat transfer is achieved due to the developed lateral surface of the section. Therefore, the design turned out to be very slender - only 75 mm thick! There are models on sale with a number of sections from 4 to 14, connected through silicone gaskets that provide uncompromising tightness. RO can be made in any of the colors of the RAL 9016 palette. However, it must be taken into account that the coolant for such a device should only be specially prepared water - “anti-freeze” agents used in heating systems of private houses will not be suitable here. 10 year warranty.

Check out the ten-minute video about making the Rifar radiator:

3. SIRA RS 500, bimetal, 6 sections – from 5100 rub.

The Sira brand produces high-quality Italian ROs, including the model we are interested in - RS 500. Reliable, stylish and efficient - this is how this product can be characterized. The company has been around for more than half a century, so only proven solutions are used: a solid steel frame with an outer layer of aluminum, high-quality painting. It differs from other solutions in the absence of sharp corners. The warranty is 20 years. However, you need to take into account that the installation kit is non-standard and is not available for sale everywhere, so it is better to buy it first.

4. Rifar Monolit 500, bimetal, 6 sections – from 5600 rub.

It is no coincidence that the Monolit 500 model from the previously mentioned manufacturer Rifar was included in our rating. This is all due to the fact that the Russian company has really succeeded in developing innovative heating solutions. The product fully lives up to its name - it is monolithic, the sections are conventional, because they are welded together, forming a solid structure. Thus, the possibility of coolant leakage is reduced to zero. This RO can withstand pressure up to 100 atmospheres! Plus, there are practically no restrictions on the coolant used. The manufacturer's warranty is 25 years.

5. Royal Thermo PianoForte 500, bimetal, 6 sections – from 9,000 rub.

Do you want a bimetallic radiator to be not only reliable, but also look sophisticated? Check out the features that look like a piano keyboard. In addition to the fact that the product from Italians has an original appearance, many technologies were used for its production: additional fins on vertical channels (POWERSHIFT), asymmetrical arrangement of sections (3D HEATING), the ability to use any coolant, including antifreeze (ABSOLUTBIMETALL), seven-stage painting, etc. The device is available in three colors. Warranty – 25 years.

Watch the video about the main advantages of Royal Thermo:

5 aluminum radiators

6. Global ISEO 500, aluminum, 6 sections – from 3200 rub.

– compact sectional cast aluminum radiator. It can operate on specially prepared water or at temperatures up to 110×C and pressure up to 6 atm. - for a couple. There are 8 modifications on sale, differing in color, the number of sections can reach 14 pieces. The manufacturer positions it as a model designed for use in the Russian Federation. This is due to the design feature: a developed area and a large volume of coolant circulating in the device. Due to this, it works effectively even with low temperature water. Warranty – 10 years.

7. Thermal Standard Plus 500, aluminum, 6 sections – from 2400 rub.

This and other RO models have been produced in the Russian Federation for almost 20 years at Zlatmash OJSC, which is a defense enterprise. Specializes in aluminum devices; instead of casting technology, pressing from hardened profiles is used. The main advantage is the price and high rated thermal power. The section volume is small, which allows you to quickly adjust the temperature of the product. A working pressure of 24 atmospheres is more than enough for normal operation in any apartment buildings. The number of sections in the standard delivery varies from 3 to 16. With a declared service life of 25 years, the manufacturer’s warranty is 5 years. Only specially prepared water can be used as a coolant.

8. Oasis Al 500/80, aluminum, 6 sections – from 2500 rub.

The Oasis brand belongs to the Forte Prom GmbH holding, and, despite the English-language name, we are again dealing with Russian products. The aluminum radiator Al 500/80 is produced by injection molding: each section is cast and then the bottom is welded to it. A classic design with a developed side surface, a significant volume of coolant in the system, as well as a 15-year warranty - this is how this device can be characterized. Models are supplied in 4, 6, 8, 10 and 12 sections.

9. Sira ALICE ROYAL 95/500, aluminum, 6 sections – from 3300 rub.

Smooth lines give the ALICE ROYAL 95/500, produced under the Sira brand, a universal appearance. Therefore, the device will look advantageous in any room. The product is made using injection molding technology and is reliable and durable. The operating pressure limit of 16 atmospheres is sufficient for installation in most high-rise buildings. Warranty – 15 years.

10. Royal Thermo Indigo 500, aluminum, 6 sections – from 3800 rub.

Despite its Italian roots, it is produced in the Russian Federation. In addition to the original design, this device uses an interesting reverse convection technology, thanks to which cold air is cut off from the windows. This became possible due to the design of the upper part of the RO, with the help of which a reverse flow of warm air is formed. Additional fins on vertical channels increase thermal power by 5%. An ultra-resistant paint layer ensures that the product retains its original appearance throughout its entire service life. Warranty – 10 years.

Watch a video about Royal Thermo innovation:

5 steel radiators

11. Buderus Logatrend K-Profil 33 300 1200, steel – from 6000 rub.

The famous German brand Buderus produces a wide range of heating equipment, so we simply could not help but add the successful model of the steel radiator Logatrend K-Profil 33 300 1200 to our rating. This is a steel panel unit with three panels and fins, as well as side connection. It features safety edges - a huge plus for families with children. Among the features include the presence of a built-in Danfoss thermostatic valve, which increases the operating efficiency of the device by 5%. In addition, the RO itself can be installed on either side - it does not have a designated rear part. There are many modifications in the series with 1, 2 and 3 panels, with and without convection plates. Warranty – 5 years.

12. KZTO Harmony 2-500-12, steel – from 27,000 rubles.

Another interesting steel model is presented by the Russian enterprise KZTO RADIATOR, operating since 1997. We are talking about the Harmony line of sectional devices, in which the section is made in the form of a pipe with a double wall - the coolant circulates inside. This design ensures efficient heat exchange, looks stylish, and is easy to maintain. Supplied by default wall-mounted. The service life is 25 years, the warranty is 5 years.

Watch a video about installing the KZTO Harmony radiator:

13. Lideya type 22 500×1000 LU 22-510, steel – from 5700 rub.

The products of Belarusian manufacturers are represented quite widely on the Russian market. Radiators, competitive due to affordable price and good quality. The Lideya model type 22 500×1000 LU 22-510 from the Lidselmash plant is made of cold-rolled steel, the panel thickness is 1.2 mm. Already from the designation it is clear that the design of this device looks like this: 2 panels, 2 convectors. The mount is universal (supplied in the kit), in addition to the pipes for the side connection, there is also a pair for the bottom. This RO can be installed in any heating systems, including gravity ones. Warranty – 5 years.

At the time of writing, there were problems with access to the official website of the plant (http://lidselmash.by/).

14. Kermi FKO 22 0510, steel – from 5300 rub.

Devices from Kermi are in great demand in the CIS. On this moment The German company offers four lines of steel RO. We are interested in the therm-x2 Profil-K or FKO series, model 22 0510. This is a two-panel device with fins to increase heat transfer. A small amount of coolant guarantees a rapid change in the temperature of the product. There are top and side screens that give the product a finished and aesthetic appearance. Side connection. Warranty – 5 years.

15. Terma Aero H (325×900), steel – from 41,000 rub.

The fairly well-known Polish company Terma produces many heating devices, and Aero H (325×900) is one of the most successful. This design solution, so you should not overestimate its thermal capabilities. The smooth lines of the device will be appropriate in any modern room, be it residential or office. The low weight allows you to hang the device even on a plasterboard base. The only caveat is that such a RO can only work in a private heating system with low pressure, i.e. not suitable for apartments. Available in several sizes, there are horizontal and vertical modifications, and many colors.

5 cast iron radiators

16. Viadrus Styl, cast iron, 6 sections – from 9,000 rubles.

Positioned by the Czech manufacturer as designer, but in reality almost classic cast iron radiators also made it into our small rating. Unlike its counterparts, the capacity of each section of such a RO is small, which means that the amount of heat received can be quickly varied. The disadvantage of this approach is low power. Regarding the advantages, one cannot fail to note the possibility of side and bottom connections. The product already has a temperature-controlled valve built in for these purposes. Various possible color solutions. Manufacturer's warranty – 10 years.

17. MZOO MS-140M-05, cast iron, 7 sections – from 3500 rub.

Such radiators can often be seen in old houses. Many still consider them the best solution for heating an apartment. We are talking about a real legend - the cast iron product MS-140M. In this case, the product is produced at the Belarusian enterprise OJSC MZOO. What can you say about such devices? It is enough that they are bought even second-hand and boldly added to their apartments - the low price decides everything. Almost indestructible with proper use, although the manufacturer gives a modest warranty of only 3 years.

18. EXEMET Modern 3-745/600, cast iron - from 12,300 rubles.

The cast iron tubular design of the radiator looks stylish and interesting. This is a floor product whose name speaks for itself – its laconic lines can decorate almost any room. The device is available in various colors, texturing is possible, as well as additional surface treatment, for example, polishing, patination, etc. The number of sections in one RO can reach 26 pieces.

Main technical characteristics of EXEMET Modern 3-745/600 (x6)

Swiss-German Arbonia design radiators are priced in the premium segment, so you shouldn’t be surprised at such a high cost. What does the famous manufacturer offer us? A stainless steel product that will become an organic addition to the interior of a modern home. Precisely at home, because it has a working pressure limitation of 4 atmospheres. This device can only be considered as an auxiliary RO, because its thermal power is small, and increasing the size (and power) can increase the cost to sky-high heights.

Characteristics	Meaning
Material	cast iron
Thermal power, W	612
Number of sections, pcs.	6
Max working pressure, atm.	10
Center distance, mm	600
Connection	lateral/diagonal
Water volume in one section, l

Main technical characteristics of Arbonia Karotherm KM90

German design radiators GuRaTec Apollo 765/05 are in high demand among antique lovers. The design of the product is copied from a French model of 1890, this reproduction is the most accurate one produced today. A device with an elegant ornament will fit perfectly into the interior of a room designed in classic style. Three versions with different heights are available to buyers: 475, 765, 970 mm.

Watch a one-minute video about the variety of GuRaTec Apollo radiators:

Editor's Choice

Among bimetallic radiators special attention Two models deserve it at once: and . The first is interesting for its increased safety margin. The second is notable for its unusual design, which makes the radiators an original part of the interior design.

Among aluminum devices, RO stands out for adapting the design to operating conditions in the Russian Federation.

Among the steel ones, a very interesting solution has been implemented - the radiator will not only warm you up, but will also be an excellent addition to the minimalist interior design.

Characteristics	Meaning
Material	steel
Thermal power, W	481
Number of sections, pcs.	1
Max working pressure, atm.	4
Center distance, mm

The main elements of the heating system in an apartment are radiators or radiators. Their choice determines the reliability of the heating system as a whole, ensuring comfortable conditions indoors, maintaining optimal temperature. Properly selected batteries will also help create a unique interior in the apartment.

Among the aluminum, new-fangled bimetallic, modern cast-iron and even wooden radiators currently available on the market, having studied their characteristics, evaluating the pros and cons, you can choose those heating devices that are suitable only for you. Let's conduct a comparative analysis - which heating radiators are better for an apartment.

What types of heating radiators are there?

Now there are 4 main types of radiators: aluminum, cast iron, copper and bimetallic. Let's figure out which ones are better.

• Bimetallic.

Bimetallic radiator heating radiators are a structure made of steel pipes, on top of which there is an aluminum shell. The main advantage is the ability to withstand high hydraulic pressure. Also, steel is not afraid of the effects of alkali, which is poured into the central heating system to remove scale from pipes.

The aluminum case on top will allow the battery to retain heat longer. Thus, this type of radiator combines the best properties: strength, durability and high thermal conductivity.

Withstands pressure up to 40 atmospheres and retains its characteristics for decades. The only drawback is the high price due to difficult production technology.

• Aluminum.

Aluminum radiators are the most popular in Russia due to their low price, beautiful design, and lightness. They are available in two versions:

1. Cast - monolithic structure made by casting aluminum alloy under pressure.
2. Extruded - an aluminum alloy profile is formed by a press and cut into individual parts. The finished parts are welded together to form a section. The last sections are connected to each other mechanically. The tightness of the structure is ensured by sealing materials.

Increased reliability and mechanical strength are more characteristic of cast batteries. In terms of other characteristics, extruded options are in no way inferior to solid ones.

Note! Under no circumstances should you completely shut off the 2 taps (valves) at the top and bottom of the radiator! In this case, the battery will burst due to pressure.

• Copper.

Copper is an amazing metal that is not afraid of corrosion and is practically not susceptible to chemical reactions. Due to the formation of a thin protective layer on inside copper products, they receive additional protection from damage without losing thermal conductivity.

In copper batteries, the inner surface of the heat exchangers always remains smooth without scale and deposits.

Heating radiators made of copper are superior to other batteries in terms of efficiency. The thermal conductivity of copper is five times higher than that of cast iron and steel, and 4 times higher than that of common aluminum.

Let's look at the main technical characteristics of copper batteries:

1. The technical properties of copper devices allow them to be installed in systems with both autonomous and central heating.
2. The temperature of the coolant in copper batteries can reach 150 degrees, and the pressure in the system can reach up to 16 atmospheres.
3. Copper radiators can be used in heating systems with liquid and steam coolant.
4. Due to the softness of the metal, a copper heating system is not afraid of water hammer and subsequent depressurization.
5. Copper radiators do not require painting, which simplifies their operation.
6. Copper heating systems are lightweight, making them easier to install.

To be fair, it is worth noting that in addition to the advantages of copper batteries, there is one drawback - the price. But at the same time, the high cost of copper radiators can justify itself with long-term use.

• Cast iron.

Cast iron heating radiators can withstand 10-15 atmospheres. The advantage is their durability - up to 50 years, resistance to water hammer and low demands on water quality.

However, despite the fact that many old houses still have cast iron radiators, they have the maximum number of disadvantages:

1. large mass (each section about 7 kg);
2. low heat transfer;
3. the need for regular washing and external painting.

Cast iron heating radiators require a large volume of water to work well, so they are not suitable for private homes.

Yet the main disadvantage of cast iron batteries is their unattractive appearance. This opinion was formed thanks to radiators produced in Soviet times. Then the main task was to produce a large number of cheap heating devices at the expense of beauty and design.

In addition to the classic appearance of cast iron batteries, there are models with a modern design that can compete in the beauty of appearance even with more technically advanced aluminum and bimetallic radiators.

The tall radiators are shaped like statues. This is a narrow device consisting of a section or solid material. Such radiators are called vertical. They fit harmoniously into the interior of any room. Due to their height, radiators do not take up much space.

There are many types of vertical radiators. The most popular are aluminum, bimetallic, steel, copper-aluminum and even cast iron. Vertical radiators can have side and bottom connections.

All are shown in the photo available types high-type heating radiators. Before purchasing, you need to decide on the required battery size in terms of height and width. It is also necessary to take into account the thermal power indicator of such a heating device so that it becomes not only beautiful decoration interior, but also fully functioned as an apartment heating radiator.

Vertical tall radiators made of aluminum have the form of vertical strips (sections) assembled into one large heater. High heat transfer and low price are the advantages of this type of radiator. But there are also disadvantages. These devices are not suitable for installation in central heating systems due to the low operating pressure.

This also includes steel panel models, which are also not suitable for centralized heating for the same reason. For autonomous systems, aluminum radiators are the optimal solution due to the price-quality ratio.

For central heating It is better to choose bimetallic or copper-aluminum products. They are quite durable and have high operating pressure.

Separately, it is worth highlighting steel tubular radiators, which represent the premium segment of high-quality German heating devices. They have a chic appearance and excellent thermal power characteristics.

All vertical radiators are installed and mounted into the heating system in the same way as standard ones.

Small radiator radiators

Low heating radiators perform the same function. Namely, heating the room. They can and should be installed directly under the windows. Small heating radiators appeared not so long ago.

Their demand arose with the growing popularity of solid glazing with a low window sill or its complete absence. Low radiators can be installed on the floor or on the wall. This allows us to solve the problem of heating such a room with panoramic glazing of the building.

The selection of low radiators is also not small. You can buy a heating device consisting of a section or a solid panel. The height of these models varies from 12 cm to 30 cm. Like vertical ones, not all low ones are well suited for installation with centralized heating.

Bimetallic, tubular and copper-aluminum radiators are more reliable and have a high maximum operating pressure. It is better to install aluminum and steel models if the house has autonomous heating. All of the above models will fit there.

Beautiful heating radiators

The word “design” is clear to everyone, but no one imagined that in our lives, inconspicuous cast-iron central heating radiators would be replaced by heating devices made not only from different materials, but in beauty and perfection not inferior to works of art, at the same time completely providing heat to our homes.

Today, designer radiators that have an attractive appearance are increasingly used. They are characterized by:

1. impeccable appearance and the ability to decorate any room without resorting to other accessories; the ability to quickly create the desired thermal atmosphere;
2. efficient operation in wet areas; Easy installation that does not require professional skills. However, the technical characteristics of such devices are still inferior to traditional radiators.
3. Beauty does not always coincide with power, however, in small rooms Such radiators can serve as the main source of heat, completely heating it. And in large spaces they can serve as additional sources, fitting harmoniously into the interior.
4. It makes no sense to criticize such devices for some imperfections in technical parameters, because their main function is to decorate the room. And then heat it, although manufacturers do not forget about this function and impose strict requirements during design and manufacturing.

• Bench radiators.

These are original space heating devices, which are tubular steel radiators. The devices have about 2 kW of power and can serve as the main heating circuit for the kitchen, bathroom, nursery, dressing room. They are connected in the usual way to the heating system.

Zehnder benches can be distinguished by a wooden seat covering, which is selected individually, have different seat heights, and are easy to clean.

In wet rooms for sports halls, the seat can be galvanized or replaced with a Werzalit profile, which also does not leave scratches. It is very comfortable to sit on such a bench, it is durable and easy to use.

• Stone radiators.

Family workshops Cinier (France) produce exclusive heating devices. Radiators made from natural stone white, first crushed and then restored using a special method, they are real works of art.

The stone has the property of radiating heat at low temperatures, maintaining optimal warmth in the surrounding space. Cinier radiators emit heat without emitting harmful substances, maintain oxygen concentration, and do not reduce humidity in the room.

This promotes uniform distribution of heat from bottom to top, and as a result, a feeling of comfort and well-being.

• Glass radiators.

Solaris heaters from a French factory have been producing glass heating radiators for more than 20 years. The principle of operation of such heaters is that one plate of durable glass is connected to a power supply and, when heated, transfers its heat to the second plate, which ensures further uniform radiation of heat.

It is the second plate that has a decorative appearance, is made of durable enameled glass and serves not only as a decoration for the room, but also performs a heating function.

Solaris radiators are available in different color range, power, can be both horizontal and vertical models, and radiators with heated towel rails, can be made in different weights, heights and widths.

• Wooden radiators.

The designers didn’t ignore the tree either, creating unique options designer radiators made of natural wood with built-in heating elements.

They are mobile and look like wall panels or floor decorations. Also available in the form of various clothes dryers or chairs. Alternatively, they can externally imitate bedding for a pet, while simultaneously serving as a heating device.

They come in different capacities depending on the configuration and size, so there is a wide choice.

It is impossible to consider all the variety of designer radiators, the possibilities of translating artistic ideas into a rational channel. But even from this little it is clear that designer radiators, being works of art, do not forget about their main purpose - heating the living space.

How to choose a heating radiator for an apartment

Criterion No. 1. Type of heating system.

This factor is paramount when choosing a battery, because different levels of water pressure in two heating systems lead to the need to choose different types of devices.

In Russia there are centralized and autonomous heating systems. What is the difference?

In a centralized system, the water pressure is quite high and at the same time inconsistent. This is due to the fact that all batteries are connected to one pipe and are turned on one after another. When starting the heating, the centrifugal pump turns on abruptly, which can lead to water hammer and damage to certain materials.

In general, a centralized system does not spare the devices connected to it. The coolant in it is hard water, which damages metals. In addition, during periods of no heating, metals are subject to corrosion.

To decide which heating radiator is best to choose for an apartment, first of all you need to look at the pressure level at which this or that type of device will function. To heat apartment buildings, you need a radiator operating at a pressure of up to 10 atmospheres. It must also be resistant to water hammer and the negative chemical effects of water.

The best choice for a central heating system would be:

1. The battery is made of cast iron, since it can withstand pressure up to 15 bar, is resistant to pressure surges and does not rust.
2. Bimetallic battery. Its operating pressure limit is 35 for sectional and 100 bar for monolithic structures. This battery is also highly durable and will last a long time.

If we talk about the autonomous heating system that private homes have, then the opposite is true. It consists of two pipes in which the coolant moves in a circle. The pressure level in such a system is 3-5 bar, and the water is less hard and acidic.

For an autonomous heating system, experts recommend aluminum radiators. It is preferable to choose this type because of its high heat transfer. Made of steel, as it is optimal combination quality acceptable for a private home, relatively low price and pleasant appearance. Sometimes you can even choose a battery made of cast iron.

Bimetallic models, of course, can also be chosen for a private home, but we do not recommend them due to their high cost, despite the fact that less expensive types in this case will work no worse.

Criterion No. 2. Heat transfer.

This is the second most important characteristic, by which you can choose a heating device. In the store you can specifically learn about the thermal conductivity of each model. And in order to generally navigate the heat transfer of species, it is enough to know the average characteristics:

Heat transfer of one section:

• Cast iron radiator - 100-150 watts.
• Made of aluminum - 80-210 watts.
• Bimetallic - 150-180 watts.
• Total heat transfer of non-sectional radiators
• Steel radiators - 1200-1500 watts.
• Convectors - 150-10000 watts.

In general, aluminum has the highest heat transfer properties. This characteristic of steel is also quite high. You can also choose cast iron. It's not far behind, but the important factor here is that it takes a certain amount of time to warm up.

However, depending on the circumstances, this can also be a plus, because the cooling time of these radiators is also quite long.

Criterion No. 3. Reliability and durability.

Depending on the material from which the radiator is made, it will be able to perform its functions for different periods of time. To understand which heating radiator is best to choose for your home, you can also focus on its service life:

1. Cast iron radiators – up to 50 years;
2. Aluminum - 15-20 years;
3. Steel – 15-25 years;
4. Bimetallic – 20-25 years;
5. Convectors – 10-25 years.

It is clear that in terms of durability, not a single modern material is ahead of the good old cast iron. If a cast iron battery is made conscientiously, from high-quality raw materials and parts, then when buying it, you can count on half a century of uninterrupted operation.

In second place are radiators made of steel and bimetallic, since, as we have already said, they can last up to 25 years. Duration of each specific radiator depends not only on the manufacturer and model, but also on the quality of the water that will be used for heating.

Criterion No. 4. Appearance.

Cast iron radiators have, of course, begun to look a little different lately. Many models have significantly decreased in size and become flat. However, traditionally cast iron batteries are only coated with a corrosion-resistant primer and then painted. Therefore, they are still not particularly attractive.

Aluminum batteries have the greatest number of different styles and methods external design. In addition to the great variety color options It seems possible to choose a model that is right for you in size. When you need to choose a battery for a limited space, this type will come to the rescue.

Panel-type steel batteries are good because their simple and uncomplicated appearance easily fits into almost any environment. Tubular-type devices, in turn, can have a very original shape and look good in a modern interior.

Among other things, such heating radiators have various practical functions in the apartment space. Bimetallic radiators are also different and very original in appearance and shape. In particular, models with rounded edges fit well into apartments with smooth corners.

Criterion No. 5 Installation and connection.

If you are going to connect the battery to the heating system while it is in operation, you will have to turn off the water. You can disconnect only your apartment from the system by turning the valves on the risers. If such valves are not installed in your apartment, then use a riser that turns off the heating in the house, since there is no other way out.

It is good to install a radiator when the heating is on in the house because you can monitor its reaction to pressure and check its integrity. If you carry out the installation with the heating turned off, then with the onset of the season you should pay attention to how the device works.

To understand which heating radiator to choose for a house or apartment, find out what type of connection is right for you:

• Side connection, the most popular type. It is characterized by a pipe supply to the battery on one side and installation to a vertical riser. In this way, the coolant is supplied from above, and discharged from below.
• The bottom connection should be chosen correctly if the apartment does not have vertical risers. When the pipes are hidden under the floor, a radiator with such a connection is mounted directly to the wiring.
• The top connection has a similar principle of operation, but is rarely used, as it leads to poor heating of the bottom of the heating battery.
• With a diagonal connection, water is supplied from above, and drainage is made from below and on the other side. Due to the route of water movement, in this case, uniform heating of the radiator is achieved with minimal water consumption.

It is also necessary that the center distance of the radiator corresponds to the distance between the supply pipes in your apartment. This figure, measured in millimeters, varies depending on the model. To choose the right heating device, you need to compare its indicator with the one you need.

For apartments it is not recommended to: install steel panel-type radiators, since they have a fairly low operating pressure of only 6-8 atm, whereas in a centralized heating system the pressure can reach 10 atm, which can lead to deformation of the collector.

In apartments with centralized heating It is recommended to use bimetallic and cast iron radiators, which are the most resistant to corrosion and have a long service life.

The correct choice of heating batteries is not only comfort, but also tangible savings in the foreseeable future. After all, the hour is not far when all apartments with central heating will be equipped with heat meters.

What heating radiators are best to install in an apartment? There are only four options, and if you look, the choice comes down to two.

Aluminum batteries: cheap, but not cheerful.

Possessing high heat transfer, low price and modern design, such radiators have a number of disadvantages that make them unsuitable for use in central heating. They are quite demanding on the quality of the coolant and untreated water quickly corrodes them from the inside.

Aluminum heating radiators are extremely sensitive to water hammer. Read about what this is and how to avoid it in the article about the pressure reducer. The main drawback is that aluminum “cannot stand” contact with other metals.

By wedging batteries into an existing system with metal pipes, you risk having to do repairs soon. Moreover, not only in your apartment, but also with your neighbors downstairs.

Steel radiators: better, but still not the same.

They are slightly more expensive than aluminum ones, but this does not save them from the same disadvantages: sensitivity to pressure changes and water quality. Steel tolerates the ingress of oxygen especially poorly. After several summer seasons, even high-quality steel batteries can rust through.

This doesn't mean that steel radiators are bad. They are ideally suited for autonomous heating systems, where they can last for many years (just like aluminum ones). But in apartments with a centralized system, it is better not to install such heating radiators.

Cast iron batteries: classic in fashion.

Surely, many immediately imagined the old “accordions” that were installed in most apartments some 20 years ago. I hasten to reassure you, modern cast iron radiators differ from “Sovdepov” ones both in appearance and characteristics.

There are entire designer series that will fit perfectly into the classic interior of your apartment. And, of course, you no longer have to paint them every year. Thanks to the use of modern powder paints, radiators retain their appearance for decades.

The heat transfer of cast iron batteries of the “new generation” is twice that of their predecessors. Due to its chemical passivity, cast iron does not care about water quality, changes in temperature or pressure in the heating system, and corrosion will make itself felt in at least 40-50 years.

The only problem that has not yet been “conquered” is the weight of cast iron radiators. They're still heavy-duty, so don't even expect to hang them on drywall. But there are models that provide for installation on legs, without mounting to the wall.

Bimetallic radiators: expensive and effective.

The best choice for an apartment. As the name suggests, these batteries are made up of two metals. Inside, such a radiator has an alloy close to steel, which perfectly withstands all the tests of central heating. And on the outside it is coated with aluminum, giving it increased thermal efficiency and excellent appearance.

The only drawback of bimetallic batteries is their price, which is higher than all previous options. However, due to their characteristics, they will be much more economical to operate, so this choice is completely justified.

Thus, it is best to install bimetallic or cast iron heating radiators in an apartment. And it is better to leave steel and aluminum for individual heating systems.

What are the best bimetallic heating radiators?

Such batteries are distinguished by the following characteristics:

1. Structurally - monolithic and sectional.
2. By material - bimetallic and semi-bimetallic.

According to reviews and operational characteristics The bimetallic version is better, but the semi-bimetallic one is somewhat cheaper. In semi-bimetallic batteries, the coolant is in contact with aluminum surfaces, which leads to a shorter service life.

Separately, it should be noted bimetallic models with a copper core. They work ideally in autonomous heating systems where the coolant is antifreeze. Aluminum-steel batteries quickly fail in such an environment.

There is no clear answer to the question which bimetallic heating radiators are better, monolithic or sectional. Sectional ones are convenient because you can calculate the battery power yourself, and if necessary, add or remove sections. But sectional batteries shorter service life. This is due to corrosion at the joints.

True, repairs are not difficult to do: specialized companies quickly replace the leaky section, and it is not as expensive as replacing the entire radiator with a monolithic version. By the way, the price of a monolithic structure is 20 percent more than a similar sectional one.

The coolant can be water, steam, antifreeze and oil, at operating temperatures up to 120°C. Working pressure is usually up to 18 atmospheres. Average term The service life of bimetallic heating radiators is approximately 25 years, although many companies promise much more, and judging by the reviews, these are not empty words.

Advantages of bimetallic radiators:

• Fits into any design;
• do not take up much space;
• have a wide range of sizes and colors;
• There are models for vertical installation, without the use of brackets;
• are not afraid of high acidity and low-quality coolants;
• withstand pressure surges up to 35-37 atmospheres;
• have high heat transfer;
• equipped with a thermostat to regulate the heating temperature;
• repairable.

Disadvantages of bimetallic radiators:

1. low quality coolant significantly reduces their service life;
2. different expansion coefficients of aluminum and steel over time provoke the appearance of squeaks and reduce the strength and durability of the radiator;
3. the cost of bimetal batteries is higher than cast iron, steel and aluminum products.

You need to choose only products from trusted companies that are professionally involved in the production of heating systems. Such companies use modern technologies and conduct tests before consumer use. The total service life of leading companies reaches 40–50 years.

The best bimetallic heating radiators are considered to be Italian. The products of the Sira company stand apart. It was this company that developed the first bimetallic batteries, and today it is the world market leader.

Also of good quality are products from the brands “Global Style” and “Radena”. According to customer reviews, Italian models are durable, compact, and elegant in appearance.

German manufacturers are not inferior to Italians either. Very good reviews about bimetallic radiators from Kermi. These are quite expensive products, but if you incur such expenses, then there is no point in saving.

At an affordable price you can buy a radiator from the Italian brand “Radiatori 200”. The reason is that it has not yet been promoted, and the batteries themselves are semi-bimetallic.

If you need an option with a copper core, then a good choice is Mars batteries from South Korea. They are not too expensive and of high quality. Polish copper-steel radiators from the Regulus-system company are also suitable for autonomous heating systems, in particular, they are good for coolants such as antifreeze.

Russian bimetallic radiators are not so popular, although they cost three times less than their Italian counterparts.

The Tenrad bimetallic radiator was developed in Germany, but is produced in China. It should be noted that this is one of the best offers in the economy segment, and also has a 10-year warranty. Reviews are mostly positive.

Let's consider which type of aluminum radiators is better: cast or extruded.

Molded-type radiators have a higher cost. During their manufacture, each section is cast under pressure from an aluminum alloy - silumin. This alloy contains up to 12 percent silicon (for strength).

All connections of individual elements are made by welding in an inert gas environment. The manufacturability makes the radiators durable. Radiators of the required thermal power are formed from individual sections.

Their advantages:

• Reliability and tightness of connections.
• Possibility of modification by adding or subtracting sections.

Their disadvantage is their higher price.

To reduce the cost of producing aluminum radiators, the extrusion method was used to manufacture the central part. The part is not cast, but extruded in an extruder at high pressure.

Then it is pressed into place with the upper and lower manifolds (they are cast). Often, a composite adhesive is used to join the battery parts together, which makes the finished product even cheaper. The extrusion radiator cannot be disassembled.

Their advantages:

1. Made from recycled aluminum, they have slightly higher heat output.
2. The internal volume of one section is two or one and a half times less than that of a cast radiator.
3. Less weight due to thinner ribs.
4. Low price.

Their disadvantages:

1. The battery cannot be disassembled for repair or modification.
2. The weak point is the connection between the collector and the section. A leak can often appear here. Either the glue won't hold up, or the Teflon or rubber O-rings will wear out.
3. Sometimes these radiators crackle due to temperature differences.

Molded radiators are more reliable. And if you look from this side at which aluminum heating radiators are better, then it is best to give preference to products made by casting. Extruded ones usually have thinner walls and withstand lower operating pressure.

You can take a closer look at extrusion radiators if finances are significantly limited or the low weight of products and coolant savings are essential. Just when purchasing any radiator (both molded and extruded), be sure to choose a reliable brand.

• Italian manufacturers.

The best companies in this segment are Global, Sira, Ferroli. Can also be called Calidor and Faral. Radiator models produced by Italian manufacturers are distinguished by stylishness, elegance of form and excellent finishing. The price of one section is from 350 to 700 rubles (approximately). Now about the properties.

1. The heat-resistant enamel coating does not crack even from boiling water.
2. The inner surface of the products is especially durable and well processed, often even having a polymer coating. This is great - then no corrosion will definitely eat the aluminum.
3. Good pressure indicators (16-20 bar).

• Russian manufacturers.

Here the first place has long been firmly occupied by RIFAR. Note that it makes some radiators under license, which are a complete copy of models from the Italian manufacturer Global. Withstanding operating pressures up to 20 bar, they have a very attractive design.

And if you ask which company’s aluminum radiators are better suited to the harsh Russian conditions, you won’t have to wait long for an answer. Naturally, domestically produced, and more specifically, from the RIFAR company. The price of one “Rifar” aluminum section is about 400 rubles.

• Chinese manufacturers.

The most famous and responsible manufacturers are Konner and Bilux. Their products can be called a budget option, costing 350 rubles and less (per section).

By the way, many well-known brands sell licenses for their products to China, so today it is quite possible to buy both inexpensive and very high-quality Chinese radiators. When purchasing them, follow two simple tips:

1. Carefully study the characteristics of the radiator indicated in the passport. If they are not listed there or there is no passport at all, refrain from purchasing.
2. Buy radiators only in a specialized store, and certainly not on the market. This way you will have a guarantee, which may come in handy (who knows).

When buying these heating devices, remember that any aluminum radiator, even the most “promoted” manufacturer, is afraid of water with a high pH level. In no case should it exceed 7.5 units. Therefore, it makes sense to install heating devices made of aluminum only if the quality of the coolant in the system meets these requirements.

Table: Technical characteristics of popular models of aluminum heating radiators.

The first place in the rating of heating radiators, among aluminum products, is occupied by the Royal model Thermo Revolution 500 (Italy).

Sectional heat exchanger with a power per section of 181 W. Bottom and diagonal connection diagrams are possible. Maximum pressure – 20 bar. The coolant volume per section is 370 ml. Based on reviews, the model of the German panel radiator Kermi FTV 22 500 was unanimously recognized as the best steel heat exchanger.

At the maximum permissible pressure and temperature of the coolant (110°C; 10 bar), the panel power reaches 5.8 kW. Bottom connection to CO. The model can be used in a central heating system. The most popular cast iron radiator among our compatriots is the STI Nova 500 heat exchanger.

The battery power can reach 1.2 kW. Lateral connection. Working pressure 15 Bar. Permissible temperature 150°C. The best bimetallic heating radiators, according to users and most experts, are Rifar Monolit 500 sectional heat exchangers.

The maximum operating pressure is 100 bar, permissible temperature coolant 135°C. The battery power depends on the number of sections and can be 2.7 kW. Wall mounting, possibility of bottom and diagonal connection to CO.

Advice! Choosing batteries for your apartment is a rather important step, which is best left to professionals.

• Global ISEO 500.

RUB 5,233

The radiator is from the best, according to experts, manufacturer of similar products from Italy. When developing the cast aluminum model Global ISEO-500, its use in climatic conditions similar to those in Russia was taken into account.

The radiator has high heat transfer rates. A two-stage painting method was used, thanks to which the appearance remains unchanged for many years.

The width of each section is 8 centimeters, such compactness allows it to occupy a minimum of space. The maximum coolant pressure in the network is 16 bar, not the highest figure, but it is still sufficient to use a radiator in both apartment buildings and individual residential buildings.

Main advantages:

1. double protective coating;
2. high heat transfer;
3. compactness;
4. possibility of connecting up to 20 sections.

Cons: None identified.

• Rifar Alum 500

RUB 4,736

Radiator from domestic manufacturer. It has a unique design of vertical channels: the holes in each section are sealed not by welding, but by plugs. They, as well as special rubber gaskets between the sections, allow you to use not only water, but also antifreeze as a coolant.

Heat transfer is high, while the dimensions of the radiator are very small. The maximum operating pressure is 20 bar, a fairly high figure.

Main advantages:

1. Pleasant and ergonomic design
2. High heat dissipation
3. Excellent anti-corrosion and chemical resistance
4. Compactness

Cons: The quality of painting on the corners of the sections leaves much to be desired.

• Thermal RAP-500

RUB 3,127

Radiators with an interesting design. Produced at the Zlatoust Machine-Building Plant. Designed taking into account the characteristics of local heating autonomous and centralized systems. Can be used for heating low-rise and high-rise residential, office buildings, as well as industrial buildings.

They have fairly high heat transfer, good anti-corrosion treatment and painting. Maximum operating pressure is 24 bar.

Main advantages:

1. high corrosion resistance;
2. good heat dissipation;
3. easy installation
4. compactness
5. ergonomic stylish design

1. sensitivity to water composition;
2. the need to install additional equipment to remove air pockets.

• Lammin Eco AL-500-80.

RUB 2,403
Radiators are Finnish-made, designed taking into account the northern climate, certified according to Russian state standards. Injection molding technology made it possible to use the emerging convection effect, which means significantly increasing heat transfer (up to 185 W per section).

The quality of painting is excellent, the process is carried out in two stages. Technologically, it is possible to combine up to 12 sections. Maximum operating pressure – 16 bar.

Main advantages:

1. Good heat dissipation.
2. Wide vertical collector.
3. Italian design.
4. High quality painting.

• Royal Thermo DreamLiner 500.

RUB 4,366
The European manufacturer produces these radiators at a Russian plant; they are fully adapted to domestic climatic features. The shape of the Royal Thermo DreamLiner is designed in such a way that deflectors are formed in the area where the heated air exits, which makes it possible to distribute the air throughout the room, avoiding unheated layers.

Both water and antifreeze can be used as a coolant. Additional fins on the vertical section manifold (patented PowerShift technology) increases the heat transfer of the radiator by 5%. Maximum operating pressure is 20 bar.

Main advantages:

1. Energy efficiency.
2. Increased heat transfer.
3. High reliability due to the use of alloying additives.
4. High quality painting.
5. Aerodynamic DREAMLINER design.

Cons: Sensitive to water quality.

The choice of heating equipment with a center distance of 500 mm for the rating was not accidental. The vast majority of modern residential premises have fairly large window openings, and the distance between the window sill and the floor is, as a rule, at least 60 cm.

Therefore, bimetallic radiators of this qualification are in greatest demand.

• Royal Thermo PianoForte 500.

Many positive user ratings for this Italian radiator on Yandex.market, which fully confirm the reliability of the design, long service life, and original design, put it in first place in the rating.

Advantages:

1. heat output from 740 W to 2590 W (depending on the number of sections);
2. the number of sections varies from 4 to 14;
3. Power Shift technology, which increases heat transfer;
4. steel collectors are designed for pressure surges in the system up to 30 atmospheres;
5. resistant to the most aggressive coolants;
6. wall and floor installation possible;
7. original design;

Disadvantages: quite high cost.

In general, as the British say, we are not rich enough to buy cheap things. Therefore, in this case, the price corresponds to the quality.

Particular emphasis is placed on the presence of Power Shift technology - the presence of additional fins on the vertical manifold, which significantly increase the heat transfer of the model. In addition, in addition to the basic white and black colors, the buyer can order other tones or RAL palettes.

• Rifar Monolit 500.

A domestic development that deservedly ranks second in the ranking in terms of the number of laudatory reviews collected in its favor. Features include the technology of the same name used in the production process - sections are connected using contact butt welding.

Advantages:

1. monolithic design allowing operation in the harshest conditions;
2. heat transfer from 784 W to 2744 W;
3. complete set of sections – from 4 to 14;
4. high resistance to aggressive coolants (pH 7-9);
5. there is a bottom connection;
6. Manufacturer's warranty – 25 years.

Flaws:

1. a bit expensive for a domestic product;
2. there are no odd sections - for example, 5 or 7.

However, in general, the radiator of this model receives extremely positive reviews. Moreover, management companies strongly recommend it for use, due to the model’s high resistance to corrosion and long guaranteed service life.

• Global Style Plus 500.

Once again an Italian model that has collected a significant number of admiring reviews. The inner part of the radiator is made of alloy steel, and the outer part is coated with aluminum alloy.

Advantages:

1. high strength;
2. maximum working pressure 35 atmospheres;
3. crimping pressure – 5.25 MPa;
4. heat output in the range from 740 W to 2590 W;
5. complete set – from 4 to 14 sections;
6. pH value (coolant aggressiveness) – from 6.5 to 8.5;
7. Manufacturer's warranty – 10 years.

Disadvantages: heat transfer drops slightly when the coolant temperature decreases.

Satisfied with the purchase, owners shower this model with extremely positive assessments - high resistance to pressure changes in the system, the presence of silicone gaskets between sectional joints prevent leaks, adjustment works stably, and so on.

• Sira RS Bimetal 500.

Another Italian, appreciated by domestic users, as the reviews eloquently speak about.

Advantages:

1. heat transfer from 804 W to 2412 W;
2. complete set – from 4 to 12 sections;
3. resistance to coolant is expressed in pH - from 7.5 to 8.5;

Disadvantages: high cost.

Well, that’s what premium class is for! In addition to satisfactory grades technical characteristics owners of this radiator model who are satisfied with the purchase note unique design– smooth, curved shapes, complete absence of sharp corners.

• Fondital Alustal 500/100.

Advantages:

1. heat transfer from 191 W to 2674 W;
2. complete set from 1 to 14 sections;
3. high strength – working pressure up to 40 Bar;
4. the most aggressive coolants (pH 7 – 10) are not scary;
5. Manufacturer's warranty – 20 years.

Disadvantages: simple design.

In general, this is a minor disadvantage due to the fact that this model is a continuous water chamber. But there is an internal anti-corrosion coating, as noted by the owners of this radiator, and a stroke pattern that prevents airing of the system.