How to grow walnuts from nuts? How to plant walnuts at home.

Walnut is a very popular plant that is widely used in medicine, cooking, and even in magic. Walnut grows actively in regions with warm and temperate climate. This tree with dense foliage grows in almost every garden plot, which is an excellent protection from the heat.

How to plant Walnut in the garden is a question that interests many gardeners. It's very easy, although many people don't know how to do it correctly.

Two ways to plant nuts in the garden

There are two ways to plant a walnut - using a seedling and a fruit. This plant can also be grown from seeds.

The simplest and most reliable way is to plant a ready-made seedling, which can be purchased at the market or in a specialized store. But it is very difficult to predict whether a future tree will bear good fruit, or whether it will bear fruit at all.

Planting a nut - subtleties

You can prepare planting material yourself by looking Walnut with well-ripened fruits. They need to be taken for future planting. The important thing is that such seeds will not require adaptation to new climatic conditions.

It is better to collect fruits for planting in October. At this moment, the tree bears fruit and drops its fruits. The nuts should have a green skin with a slight yellowish tint. The fruits are selected that are healthy and uniform in shape, without dents or other damage. The shell must be hard. For cultivation, it is better to collect fallen fruits. Well, if you like the ones on the tree, you can knock them down with a stick. To successfully plant a walnut at home, you only need large and healthy seeds. They must be ripe.

If there are cracks in the outside of the pericarp and the seeds are detached from the shell, they can be considered ripe. It is best to plant the seeds immediately after collection, in the fall, since they will no longer be suitable next year. First, the nut is cleared of the pericarp. Then dig a hole about a meter deep. It is recommended to mix the dug soil with humus, which will increase its nutritional value.

You don’t have to peel the nuts from their original skins; it’s not important. But experienced gardeners noted that purified planting material it germinates faster and has a higher germination rate. The nut is carefully broken with a hammer, separating the outer shell, but it is very important not to damage the inner skin of the fruit. When cleaning nuts, it is better to use rubber gloves, which will protect against the formation of dark spots on your hands. By the way, they take a very long time to come off.

We immerse the cleaned planting material in water. Those seeds that have fallen to the bottom are suitable for cultivation. These fruits with a whole kernel can produce good sprouts. In order for the plant to be planted correctly, the seeds must undergo a stratification procedure. They are placed in a cool place, ensuring stable temperature regime within 5 degrees for 3-4 months.

One thing to remember important rule When planting a walnut, it is recommended to plant the seed at the depth of its length. This largely depends on climatic conditions. In areas with harsh climates, seeds are planted much deeper. Nuts are planted in the soil at a depth of up to 25 cm with the seam facing up. After they germinate, only the strongest seedling is left.

Planting a nut seedling

Many novice gardeners are interested in how to plant a walnut seedling correctly. To do this, you will need a two-year-old plant. It must be a seedling of any height with a strong trunk with a diameter of at least 1 cm. You need to dig up the plant for planting so that the lateral roots remain intact. It is better to cut the vertical root to 1/3 of its length. The cut area must be treated with clay. The plant is deepened so that the root collar is 3-4 cm higher above the ground. Then the hole with the plant is covered with earth, compacted thoroughly and excess branches are removed.

To get a fruit-bearing tree, it is better to buy a ready-made seedling, which root system will be “mothballed”.

Planting such a seedling can be carried out in any weather conditions, even during drought. The root system of the plant is already saturated with nutrients. Therefore, after planting, the tree will begin to actively develop. The survival rate of such seedlings is very high.

Walnut is a slow-growing plant that requires proper care and attention. It takes a lot of work to get it to bear fruit.

While it’s winter outside, we’ll try to figure out how to grow walnuts on our own plot. It must be said that walnut is a long-lasting plant. There are trees in the world that are 300-600 years old. They gave tasty and useful fruits many generations of people continue to produce high yields. And it is very important to grow a walnut tree with good fruit performance, since its benefits will be enjoyed by many future generations.

If you decide to plant a nut tree in your yard, place it so that the tall and spreading tree does not subsequently interfere with other plants and buildings. The nut should not be planted near various buildings, as its powerful roots, when growing, can damage the foundation. Not far from a nut seedling you can only plant berry bushes. They can produce a full harvest for 6-9 years, and when a large walnut tree grows, the bushes can be removed.

The main method of propagation of nuts is by seeds. For sowing, you need to select large, well-executed fruits, with a thin shell and a tasty kernel. They are cleaned of the green shell, laid out in one layer, dried first in the sun, and then in the shade, in a draft. Do not dry fruits intended for planting near radiators or other heating devices.

The fruits that you are going to plant in the fall do not need to be dried. They must be sown immediately permanent place, since the seedlings form a deep central tap root, and it is not advisable to injure it during transplantation. Dig a hole for sowing with a depth and a diameter of up to 1 m. Mix the soil thrown out of it with well-rotted humus. Such deep holes are made in order to create a reserve for the tree. nutrients. And when sowing, plant the seed fruits in holes or grooves 15:20 cm deep.

Important! At the bottom of the planting hole or groove, the fruits must be placed with a seam in vertical plane(seam up). Never point up! An incorrectly placed nut will result in a tree that will bear fruit three years later than the one planted with the seam facing up.

3-4 fruits are placed in a planting hole in a square or triangle with sides of 20-25 cm. The strongest one is selected from the grown seedlings.

If seedlings are grown, it is better to transplant them to a permanent place in the spring at the age of two. Dig them out carefully so as not to damage the lateral roots. The vertical root, which can reach a length of more than a meter, must be chopped, cut with a sharp knife or pruning shears at a depth of 40 cm, and the wounds covered with clay.

When planting, the seedling is placed on compacted soil so that its root collar is 3-4 cm above the soil level. The roots are carefully straightened, giving them the position they occupied before being removed from the ground. It is a deeply mistaken opinion that when transplanting a walnut seedling, you need to place a flat stone under the center of its root system. It supposedly promotes the growth of powerful roots.

After filling the hole, the soil is compacted, watered, a hole is made and mulched. Immediately after planting, excess branches are removed from the seedling.

When to trim a nut

If walnut trees are severely damaged by frost, as a result of which there is a massive death of branches in the crown or tops (strong shoots) appear on the trunk, and sometimes there is a complete absence of signs of growth, it is better not to prune the trees at all in the first year of damage. It is more advisable to do this early in the spring next year, after in the first year of the growing season after a harsh winter, young, strong shoots (tops) grow on the damaged parts of the trees. From these, young branches can be formed in subsequent years to restore the crown. Branches above well-developed and conveniently located shoots are trimmed down to living tissue along the entire cut. At the same time, all vertical shoots (tops) that have grown next to the shoot chosen to continue the shortened branch are cut into a ring. All side shoots They are left to form overgrowing and fruiting branches from them. In subsequent years, they are limited to sanitary pruning, that is, the removal of dry, diseased branches, as well as those that thicken the crown. Trim walnuts during dormancy in early spring, at the end of February - in March, two weeks before the start of sap flow. This prevents the release of sap from wounds, because its excessive amount contributes to the development of fungal diseases.

Secondary pruning can be done in the summer - in July-August, when there is a decline in sap flow, and oppressed and dried branches that were not noticed in the spring are clearly visible. It is advisable to prune in the morning or evening, as well as in cloudy weather.

All wounds when cutting branches are cleaned with a sharp knife and must be covered with garden varnish.

Walnut grafting

Currently, the main method of propagation of walnuts is by seed. Dry or stratified fruits sown in autumn or spring germinate by 70-80%, and a strong, durable tree grows from them. But this method also has significant drawback. The walnut plant is cross-pollinated. Moreover, it is also wind pollinated (anemophile). During the flowering period of the nut, a a large number of pollen, and on dry sunny days whole clouds of it hang over the tree. Pollen can be carried hundreds of meters, and open places- and for kilometers. Therefore, even if you select large nuts for sowing, with thin shells and tasty kernels, there is no guarantee that they will grow into trees that will produce the same fruits.

This can only be guaranteed by grafting cuttings or eyes taken from trees with good fruit production. There is a problem here too. If you have grown a walnut tree with bad fruits, it is very difficult to re-graft it, since grafts on mature walnut trees do not grow well. Of course, you can try, but there is no guarantee that the scion will take root well on this tree. To get a tree with guaranteed good fruit performance, you need to grow grafted seedlings. This work is carried out for two to three years.

Rootstocks

These are one- or two-year-old seedling plants onto which cuttings or eyes from trees with good fruits are grafted. To obtain a rootstock, you need to take fruits from strong walnut trees - they must be frost-resistant and not susceptible to diseases. The quality of the fruit does not matter.

As a rootstock you can take not only walnut fruits, but also black, rock, and Manchurian. They all belong to the same family as the walnut, and their grafts grow together well.

Walnut seeds intended for growing rootstock seedlings must be well ripened. Their growing technology is the same as growing nuts by seed.

In the first year after germination and growth of seedlings, tap roots can be pruned so that a well-branched and developed root system appears.

In the spring of next year, rootstock seedlings are prepared for budding, and excess shoots are cut out into a ring. About a month before budding, the rootstocks are hilled up to 10-15 cm with loose and moist soil for better bark growth and fed with nitrogen fertilizers (30 g per 10 liters of water). Rootstocks with a height of 25-30 cm are considered suitable for budding. 2-3 days before budding, the soil is usually watered and loosened to enhance sap flow. On the day or on the eve of budding, the root collar of the rootstock is freed from the soil, and the budding area is thoroughly wiped with a wet rag.

Scions

As a scion, cuttings from the current year's growth, harvested from the best mother trees (with large, thin-shelled fruits with good taste) are used.

The harvested cuttings must be at least 20-25 cm long, at least 0.8 cm thick at the base, with a smooth, rounded surface, and the presence of well-developed growth buds. Not suitable for vegetative propagation cuttings with eyes on the bulges of the wood, with a large thickening at the base of the leaf petioles, as well as vigorous, elongated (fatty) shoots, in which the buds sit on the woody tubercles. Cuttings with internodes less than 3 cm are of little use. It is not recommended to take underdeveloped buds at the base of the shoot, buds with the apical ribbed part of the shoot, and male flower buds for budding. Cuttings for budding can be prepared from mother walnut trees. But without special preparation, such trees produce very few shoots with growth buds suitable for budding. To increase them, shoot formation is stimulated. One of them is early spring (March) rejuvenating pruning, when two-thirds of shoots of two, three or four years of age are cut off. In the steppe zone, two or three times watering at the beginning of the growing season (in April and May) is more effective.

Without stimulation, no more than 60-70 working buds can be harvested on one tree, with rejuvenating pruning - 4-5, and with watering - 8-10 times more.

It is better to prepare cuttings on the day of budding. When cutting, two or three lower, underdeveloped buds should be left on the shoots. The growths that grow from these buds the following year can be used for budding. Immediately after cutting, all leaves are removed from the cuttings, leaving petioles 1.5-2 cm long, after which they are placed with the lower cone in a bucket of water (4-5 cm), covering the top with damp burlap and plastic wrap. During budding, the burlap is periodically moistened and the bucket is placed in the shade. You can prepare cuttings one or two days before budding and store them in the basement at a temperature of 3-5°.

The success of walnut budding is largely determined by the timing of its implementation. The best survival rate of budding occurs during the period of intensive growth and activity of the cambium, which occurs in the second half of June - the first half of July.

At this time, the walnut, even in the absence of watering, experiences intense sap flow, the bark lags well behind the rootstock and scion, and the vascular-fibrous bundle of the bud breaks off at the level of its inner surface when the half-tube is removed. All this ensures intensive healing of wounds with callus and fusion of the scion with the rootstock. If the weather is dry and hot, the soil should be watered.

Grafting with a half-tube with an eye

To obtain vegetative walnut seedlings practical significance There are two methods: budding in open ground and winter (tabletop) grafting.

It is possible to carry out spring vaccinations cuttings, but they take root poorly, most often by 6-12%, and only in some cases - by 42-47%.

Most effective way is budding in open ground with a half-tube with an eye (bud).

This budding is performed with two special double knives, the blades of which are made of of stainless steel. To make such knives, you can use medical scalpels or ordinary grafting knives. Medical scalpels are mounted on wooden rectangular bars, the length of which is 10-12 cm, thickness -1, the width of one of them is 2.9, the second - 3.1 cm.

The scalpels are attached to the block using electrical tape, which is covered with 2-3 layers of medical bandage on top for ease of use. Grafting knives are attached to wooden blocks, as in the first case, or two metal plates. It is also necessary to have a regular budding knife.

And now about the technology of grafting with a half-tube with an eye (bud) on the scion.

Removing the half-pipe

To do this, the cuttings are taken into left hand and with a second parallel knife (with a distance between the blades of 2.9 cm), two parallel cuts are made to the bark along the entire circumference of the shoot (cutting) so that the bud is located in the middle between these cuts. On the opposite side of the eye, a longitudinal section of the bark is made, connecting the transverse ones. Using the bone of a budding knife, separate the bark on the right and left of the longitudinal incision and, lightly pressing thumb right hand onto the leaf petiole, turn the ring to the right with a slight sliding movement and remove it.

A correctly removed tube should have a smooth surface on the opposite side of the kidney, without any roughness or depressions. For such tubes, the bark is cut off on both sides of the buds to the same width, taking into account the width of the half-tube on the rootstock. After this, the half-tube on the rootstock is removed.

The bare area of ​​wood on the rootstock should also be smooth, without any roughness; if there are tubercles on the wood cylinder of the rootstock, they are cut off so that the surface of the wood is smooth. A half-tube of scion is applied to the bare area on the rootstock. Between the bark of the half-tube of the scion and the rootstock, a gap of 1 mm wide is left on all sides. This gap provides a better fit of the scion to the rootstock and promotes filling of the wound with callus.

The budding site is immediately tied. Tapes are used as strapping material polyethylene film, the length of which is 40, width 1 -1.2 cm.

The budding is tied from the bottom up so that the half-tube of the scion fits tightly to the rootstock and there is no bare space left anywhere, and the bud and petiole are open. The cut of the petiole is coated with garden varnish.

All operations are done quickly and cleanly, otherwise the tannins present in the bark begin to oxidize when they come into contact with air, which subsequently negatively affects the survival rate of the kidneys. To ensure a better flow of nutrients to the site of budding and faster fusion of the scion with the rootstock, it is necessary to remove part of the crown of the rootstock on the day of budding.

Inspection of budding with simultaneous bandaging is carried out after three weeks, and in the case of constriction of the rootstock - with banding material 15-17 days after budding. Those eyes that have taken root are those in which the petiole left on the scion shield falls off on its own or when lightly touched, and a green cone peeks out from the outer scales of the grafted bud. The bandage is completely removed after 1.5 months.

In order to ensure the fastest growth of the buds that have started to grow, all leaves are removed from the rootstocks. This ensures a flow of nutrients to the oculants, which contributes to their faster leafing and growth.

Young oculants are very fragile and easily break off by the wind. Therefore, when they reach a height of 8-10 cm, they are tied up. The second garter of budding is carried out upon reaching a height of 25-30 cm. Oculants of the June budding period in the year of budding can reach a height of 40-50 cm or more. This is very important indicator their successful overwintering.

In the fall, before frost sets in, the budding sites are tied with a bunch of straw.

The strapping is removed in the spring, when the air temperature reaches positive temperatures.

For rootstocks with eyes that have started to grow in the year of budding, the spine (part of the rootstock above the budding site) is cut out in the spring of the following year. When cutting out a thorn, make a slight tilt in the direction opposite to the budding site. The cut is immediately covered with garden varnish. To ensure straight growth, occulants are tied to stakes driven into the soil.

In the spring, on rootstocks with clearly established, but not sprouted eyes, all buds except the budded one are sniffed.

This increases the flow of nutrients to the occultated bud and ensures its fastest germination. Wild shoots are scoured throughout the entire growing season. Seedlings are dug up in the spring (from a depth of 30 cm). It is not recommended to dig up and replant walnut seedlings in the fall, or store them in winter dormancy.

Along with the described method of summer budding, a method of winter grafting indoors using a cutting with an oblique cut with a tongue (copulation) has been developed. The advantage of this method, compared to budding, is that it can be carried out in winter time in enclosed spaces and there to create optimal conditions for the fusion of grafted components. Of course, this method is very troublesome. But an amateur gardener can still set aside a small area in some heated room. And those gardeners who grow seedlings for sale can organize their production in large quantities.

Preparation of rootstocks and scions

You can grow rootstocks and prepare materials for scions using approximately the same technology as we discussed earlier.

As rootstocks, use annual walnut seedlings with a trunk thickness in the grafting zone of 10-16 mm. To obtain them, the fruits are sown in late autumn or stratified for 50-60 days in wet sand or sawdust in the cellar and sown in early spring to a depth of 6-9 cm.

Seedlings are dug up in the fall, after the leaves fall. At the same time, make sure that the length of the tap root is at least 25-30 cm. Store the seedlings in the basement in damp sand or sawdust at a temperature of 0+5°.

To obtain rootstock cuttings, annual shoots of valuable local forms and regionalized varieties are used. They must be mature, developed, healthy, at least 40 cm long and at least 10 mm thick at the base. Prepare them before the onset of severe frosts. Store in damp sawdust or washed, damp coarse grain river sand in rooms with a temperature of 0+5°. IN warm winters they can be cut off immediately before grafting. Optimal time vaccinations – January-February. But it can also be carried out in March-April.

Before grafting, the seedlings are cleared of soil, washed, the central tap root is shortened immediately before the so-called radish-shaped thickening, the lateral roots are shortened, leaving 1.5-2.5 cm. Then the seedlings are placed in stratification boxes and sprinkled with wet sawdust (do not let them dry out! ). At this time we need to support optimal temperature 26-28o, duration of germination (adjustment) -10-14 days. The adjustment is completed when callus (growth at the cut site) forms on the cut roots and the apical points begin to swell. Immediately before grafting, the rootstocks and scions are selected according to thickness. When grafting in March-April, adjustment (germination) is carried out only for the rootstock and only for 2-3 days.

Grafting technique

With a sharply sharpened grafting knife, an oblique cut 1.5-2 times longer than the diameter of the trunk is made on the rootstock seedling at a height of 3-5 cm above the root collar. The cut for the tongue is made by retreating 1/4 from the upper end of the oblique cut, and brought to half the length of the oblique cut. The same operation applies to the scion cuttings. Then the seedling of the rootstock and the cutting of the scion are connected so that the tongue goes behind the other.

The finished grafts are placed in stratification boxes and sprinkled with steamed and moistened sawdust (the thickness of the top layer is 5-7 cm). The signal for the end of stratification is the formation of a circular callus (influx) between the components (rootstock and scion). After sorting, boxes with vaccinations are stored at a temperature of 0+3°.

Planting and care

Before planting, boxes with vaccinations are kept on outdoors 10-15 days. The sawdust over the grafts is gradually removed.

The grafts are planted in a permanent place when the soil at a depth of 20 cm warms up by at least 10°.

The seedlings obtained in this way can be planted immediately in a permanent place. If there are a lot of seedlings and they are grown for sale, then they can be planted in a nursery (school) in rows spaced 80-100 cm apart, and in rows - 25-35 cm apart. The grafts are planted in grooves or grooves 25-30 cm deep. Before planting they need to be well moistened. The place of fusion (adhesion) during planting should be at the level of the soil surface. The planting grooves or grooves are filled and covered with loose soil, which is slightly compacted. The mound should be 7-10 cm above the grafting site. After hilling, the grafts are watered abundantly. When the threat of refunds passes spring frosts, the mounds are gradually leveled. This must be done within a month.

Caring for seedlings consists of creating optimal conditions for their growth: fertilizing, watering, loosening, removing weeds.

Standard seedlings are ready for transplantation or sale in the second year after they are planted in a school (nursery).
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» Walnut

Usually this is a huge tree, by our standards, up to 25 meters has a very indirect relation to Greece: the fruits were brought from the south, and “everything is available in Greece.” Surely it grows there too; wild forms of this tree are common in Europe.

The tree looks impressive. A separately growing nut not only differs in height - its crown also reaches a diameter of 20 meters.

By European standards, it is long-lived (second only to oak)— specimens of 300-400-year-old trees are often found.

The development of the tree begins with the formation of a powerful tap root, which reaches a depth of 1.5 meters in the 5th year and 3.5 meters by the age of 20.

Horizontal ones do not grow immediately - they are formed after the rod one, located in the surface layer of soil at a depth of 20-50 centimeters.

The tree begins to bear fruit after 10 years of life, and from the age of 30-40 the time of full fruiting begins.

If trees grow in groups, partially shading each other, they rarely produce more than 30 kg of harvest, while a free-growing nut can produce up to 400 kg of nuts.

But such cases are rare; only a tree 150-170 years old is capable of such a harvest. Typically, an adult tree 25-40 years old in Moldova produces 1500-2000 fruits or 2000-2500 in Crimea.

Moscow region, central Russia - where else can you plant and grow walnuts?

They are found in the European part from the foothills of the Caucasus to St. Petersburg, where the northernmost nuts in Russia grow. But these are isolated cases, exceptions that only confirm the rule.

These trees do not freeze out completely, but they also do not grow to their full potential.

The main factor determining the possibility of growing this southern tree, - not winter at all subzero temperature. The sum of average daily temperatures above 10 degrees is taken into account. It cannot be less than 190 C.

If in winter the temperature does not drop below -36 degrees and for 130-140 days a year the temperature is above 0 C, the walnut can grow and bear fruit.

Hybrids of Manchurian and walnut showed the best winter hardiness.

When landing even the best seed material brought from the south, adaptation to the cold climate does not occur - such trees regularly freeze and practically do not bear fruit.

Varieties from places with a humid, warm climate are completely unsuitable for growing.(west and south of Ukraine, Black Sea coast of the Caucasus).

Towards new conditions middle zone Only nuts from eastern Ukraine, the mountains of Central Asia or the Caucasus are successfully adapted to Russia.

Moreover, It’s better to grow a nut from a seed yourself— an imported seedling (even from the indicated regions) will be significantly inferior in terms of endurance and adaptability to new conditions.

How and when to plant and grow a tree from a seedling: conditions

It must be immediately planted in a permanent place. It is impossible to replant a 5-year-old tree. Therefore, you need to take into account all the factors and calculate the consequences.

A vigorous tree can form dense shade over an area of ​​approximately 100 sq.m. You will have to cross this area out of circulation - under the walnut there is little that can bear fruit(this is due to the strong suppressive effect of the biofield of a huge tree).

On the other hand, on this square you can arrange a summer recreation area - essential oils flies and mosquitoes are not allowed close to the nut.

Choose a planting site at the edge of the garden so as not to shade other trees. Walnut is very unpretentious to soils, although it prefers loose sandy and rocky soil.

The planting hole is dug so that under the roots there is a layer of stones of at least 25 centimeters.

The bottom of the planting hole must be filled halfway construction waste (broken brick, pieces of cement, crushed stone) - this technique allows you to shift the flowering time of the tree by 1-2 weeks (the stones slowly warm up, the nut starts to grow a little later, skipping the period of frost).

Half a bucket of ash, compost or humus is added to the pit. The soil should not be too fertile; the nut will grow intensively and will not have time to prepare for winter.

A seedling for planting must be taken only from a trusted seller, otherwise you will get nothing but frostbitten branches of a southern tree, and you probably won’t get a harvest.

A walnut tree is planted only in the spring; it enters the dormant period too early and will not have time to take root before winter.

It is believed that a nut planted with one’s own hand from a bone will grow into a tree practically adapted to the new conditions, which will develop successfully.

Seeds are planted in the fall directly into the ground to a depth of 7-10 cm. It is advisable to lay it in the soil sideways at the seam. Spring planting requires 2-3 months of stratification in wet sand.

No special care is required for the seedlings - even in the middle zone The nut has no pests.

How to plant an annual walnut seedling:

Care after planting: spring, summer and autumn

How to care? Walnut may only need watering in spring and early summer when there is intensive growth of green mass. Usually the tree has enough soil reserves of winter moisture.

Water only young trees up to 5-7 years old, if it is completely dry.

The taproot system of the southern tree is adapted to find water in the lower horizons. After 10 years of age, you should completely forget about watering the nut.

For him, excess moisture threatens too active growth, to the detriment of ripening and preparing wood for winter. Freezing after a wet summer is guaranteed.

In addition to stopping watering, you need to take care of preparing the root system for winter. That's why, trunk circles must be mulched with any organic matter or compost:

• in summer - to preserve moisture;
• in autumn - to protect the top layer of soil from freezing.

In particularly cold areas, the soil is mulched with a layer of at least 10 cm, especially in areas with little snow.

It is useful to cover the trunk up to a height of about 1 m with spruce branches or wrap it in several layers of newspapers (after the first frost). This will help you survive -40 degrees and below.

Such shelter is necessary only in the first years- the wood must be hardened naturally.

How to properly care during the growing process: before and after ripening

Like all fruit crops, walnuts need periodic feeding.

In the spring, nitrogen fertilizers are applied, in the second half of summer - only potassium and phosphorus fertilizers, which are responsible for preparing the tree for winter and laying fruit buds for the next harvest.

On cultivated soil, you can not feed nitrogen at all, but apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizers (in terms of active substance) 10 g/sq.m.

Practice shows that the rule applies to all cases when the nut does not grow on obvious stones and clay.

What makes me especially happy is - in the middle zone the walnut has no natural enemies. It has already been said that flies and mosquitoes fly around it.

Not only that, you can make very tasty dishes from walnut leaves. effective remedy against aphids and various caterpillars, which is successfully used in Ukraine.

Absolutely harmless home remedy for humans allows you to process trees and bushes with fruit and berry ovaries.

Graft

Unfortunately, walnut cuttings do not take root; propagation occurs only by seeds.

Vaccination is carried out in cases where:

• there is a seedling of probably winter-hardy Manchurian walnut, for which -40 in winter is not a problem;
• The planted variety did not live up to expectations - the opportunity arose to regraft it.

One-year-old seedlings are grafted into clefts and grown under control in a greenhouse to a marketable state.

Young trees that have already produced their first few nuts can be re-grafted using the “eye budding” type- only the bark is removed with a bud in the form of a half-tube (that’s what the method is called) and combined with the same cut on the rootstock.

Until complete healing, the grafting site is tied with film.

The result of grafting an adult walnut tree:

Reproduction in the country

The main method of obtaining seedlings is growing from seeds. To simplify the process, nuts are planted without additional processing in the fall to a depth of about 10 centimeters. It is believed that it is better to lay them sideways on the seam.

If you haven't had time to bury it for the winter, put it in damp sand in the basement - the nut must undergo stratification, otherwise it won't hatch.

The walnut tree is replenished with stump growth in just a year or two. These trees are capable of producing fruit literally in the second year, and in the 10th year they already produce a significant harvest.

It turns out that walnuts can be successfully planted and grown at a dacha in the middle zone, in the Moscow region. You just need to follow simple rules:

• correct choice of location;
• seedling - only zoned;
• mandatory mulching of the tree trunk circle;
• sheltering the trunk from frost in the first years of life.

Most gardeners can do all this.. Choose a sunny place, protected from cold winds - the nut will thank you.

Instructions

For sowing, use fresh nuts from this year's harvest. The longer they are stored, the lower their germination rate will be. If you have the opportunity to collect the seeds yourself, select ripe nuts that fall easily from the pericarp capsule and keep them in the sun for a day or two. You can dry the seeds in the shade.

If you harvest nuts in the fall, choose an area of ​​slightly acidic or slightly alkaline soil. Acidic soil should be limed before sowing. Level groundwater on the site should be constant, but not high. Dig up the ground and make a groove eight centimeters deep in it.

Place the nuts in the groove on the edge at a distance of about forty centimeters from one another. The distance between rows should be at least a meter. Sprinkle the nuts with soil. In areas with little snow in winters, crops should be covered with grass or sawdust with a layer of ten to twenty centimeters.

In the spring, when the nuts begin to sprout, remove parts of the sawdust, leaving a five-centimeter layer. Walnut seeds germinate unevenly; seedlings may appear even after a year.

Before spring planting, the nuts are kept for a period of one to three months in damp sand or sawdust. Seeds with shells less than a millimeter thick are best soaked in water; nuts with thick skins are stratified according to all the rules.

Before putting the nuts in sawdust or sand, soak them for two to three days in water at room temperature, which will have to be changed every day. Place the soaked seeds in a container with damp sand or sawdust on an edge, sprinkle with substrate and put in a room with a temperature of three to seven degrees. Once a month, the containers should be checked and, if necessary, the substrate should be moistened.

Thin-shelled nuts are stored at a temperature of one to five degrees in a dry place, and a month before planting they are soaked in water at room temperature. When the shell flaps open, the seeds are placed on the edge in a container with wet sawdust and germinated at a temperature of about twenty-five degrees.

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• Walnut: germination and care

Walnut loves moisture and a lot of light. It grows best on moderately moist carbonate loams where the groundwater level is low and constant. Walnuts have a fairly powerful root system that penetrates deep into the soil. Fruit ripening occurs in October-November, and flowering occurs in April-May.

Instructions

In order to grow a walnut, you must first select the seeds High Quality. The seed must be ripe and its pericarp should also fall out easily. Selected for seeds nuts It needs to be dried in the sun for a couple of days. After this, they are dried under a canopy. If in autumn period plant unstratified nuts, then the first shoots will be observed at the end of May.

In order to save nuts For spring planting, you need to place them in a cool place. 90-110 days before planting, they need to be placed in wet sand. The temperature should be approximately 7 degrees. They need to be sown in May. The most optimal depth is 7-9 centimeters. Place the nut in the landing groove sideways, on its edge. If nuts planted in the spring, the first shoots will appear after 10 days. Next spring it is necessary to dig up walnut seedlings from the bed with a lump of earth. The length of the taproot should be more than 40 centimeters. After this, you can plant it in a permanent place.

If seedlings are used as a rootstock, then they need to be planted according to the 1x0.25 meter pattern. In the year of planting, it is necessary to do budding. For walnuts, you can make cuttings from young trees. Quite often, grafted trees begin to bear fruit at the age of 8-10 years.

Nut entrances can be observed after 3 weeks. By autumn they grow to about 15 centimeters. After growth stops, the stems begin to thicken. If you constantly water the seedlings in July-August, they will continue to grow, but they are unlikely to be able to survive the winter.

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Growing walnuts on summer cottage does not cause much difficulty. In addition, plants tolerate well winter cold, but with additional protective measures.

You will need

• - walnuts