Fastening a concrete staircase to a monolithic floor. Concrete staircase on the street instructions

A concrete staircase can not only fulfill its straight functional responsibilities, but also to become excellent design solution for your home.

The presence of a staircase in the house can be not only functional, but also stylish, since in itself it is an excellent decorative element. But a staircase made with your own hands gives the owner a reason to brag about his skills and will become a source of pride for the home. In addition, it should be noted that installing it yourself does not require as much effort as it might seem at first glance.

How to make a concrete staircase

Concrete stairs are one of the most reliable and more durable design, unlike their wooden brothers.

Types of concrete stairs

Concrete stairs are divided into two types:

1. Monolithic. This type of concrete stairs is installed in almost all places, for example, in basements, on streets or for porches.

2. Combined. The same type of concrete stairs implies complex design made of metal, which simultaneously serves as a frame for attaching concrete steps. The casting of the steps themselves occurs using formwork with reinforcing mesh. To make the steps themselves, concrete, crushed granite and marble chips. After it dries concrete mixture, it should be polished.

How to make calculation measurements correctly

To make the work easier, you can use your own sketch of the future staircase, which may also come in handy in the future. Like any repair work, this process should also be divided into stages:

1. Calculation of formwork.Initially, you should determine the position of the ladder - it can be located on the ground, adjacent to a wall, connecting two opposite walls, etc. After all, the further calculation and construction of the staircase, and the formwork as a whole, depend on these moments.

2. When calculating a staircase, the number and size of its steps are taken into account. The recommended step height should be from 16 to 20 cm, and the width should be more than 27 cm. If you end up with more than 14 steps, then it is recommended to make two flights.

You should also take into account the residents of the house, since it is difficult for elderly people to climb high steps, and small children running around the house may accidentally trip and injure themselves.

3. When designing a staircase, you need to take into account that its angle should vary from 25 to 45 degrees, because the higher the angle of inclination, the more difficult it is to climb such a staircase.

4. The width of the staircase itself should not exceed 80-90 cm. Although, if the concrete staircase is part of the interior of a private house or summer cottage, then the width is chosen according to the taste of the owner of the house.

5. When choosing materials for constructing formwork, it is necessary to take into account the entire weight of the structure: 1 sq. A meter of concrete 20 cm thick weighs on average about 500 kg. And the weight of a whole march with a drop (height 2.5 meters, length 4 m) 1 m wide is approximately 2.5 tons.

6. To prepare a concrete solution you will need: 0 cement PC-400 (1 l), sand (2 l), crushed stone (4 l), water (0.6 l), plasticizer (S-3) (10 ml).

7. To obtain quality concrete mortar It is better to use a concrete mixer, or use a special electric vibrator for compaction. After all, the strength of the support subsequently depends on the quality of the solution produced.

8. The filled surface is covered plastic film to prevent drying out. The formwork is removed no earlier than after 3-4 weeks, while the concrete has strengthened by at least 80%.

It is important to remember that when calculating all the initial data, you need to take into account factors such as thickness flooring and the floor itself.

The design of the formwork is the very first stage of preparing a concrete staircase. To assemble it correctly, certain materials will initially be required: waterproof plywood (about 20 mm in section), construction timber(section 100x100ml).

For formwork intended for monolithic concrete stairs, the following materials are needed:

A piece of timber that will fasten the formwork elements to each other and the walls;

Also, for connecting steps, which will prevent the sheets from stretching when pouring concrete mortar;

Formwork elements together with winder steps. If the length of the foot is 1 m, then the boards must be at least 30 mm thick, and a length of 1.2 m requires a thickness of at least 40 mm.

End formwork. It can take the form of plywood sheets, or a template with pre-prepared dimensions can be used. The boards used for this formwork are selected to be approximately 30 mm in size.

I would like to draw your attention to the fact that formwork elements are often secured using wood screws (diameter 3.5), since they are easier to remove than nails during dismantling work.

Technologies used in the production of concrete stairs

Such a thing as formwork serves as the basis for the high-quality operation of a concrete staircase, and its main criterion is that there should be no gaps or cracks in it. For the formwork frame, waterproof plywood is used, which prevents the concrete solution from leaking. Plywood is used in combination with boards that fit tightly together.

Before the resulting frame is filled with concrete mortar, a reinforcement cage is inserted there. The entire flight of stairs is framed by steel rods, which are firmly connected by cross braces.

To strengthen the front steps of stairs, transverse reinforcement is used, which prevents them from crumbling and cracks. Before pouring concrete directly, you need to leave wooden plugs or metal embedded plates, to which the staircase railings will later be attached.

The surface of the poured solution is leveled before it cools down. special tools to make it easier to sand in the future.

You can move up the stairs only after the concrete solution has completely dried.

Cladding the stairs is the final stage of all repair work. It is carried out no earlier than after 3-4 weeks, subject to drying at room temperature. The formwork frame is removed, and the embedded parts themselves and the surface of the steps are processed using a grinding machine.

It is intended for perfect alignment surfaces. For cladding concrete stairs, you can use materials such as ceramic tiles, wood, natural stones or porcelain stoneware.

To date modern market offers a wide range of repair materials stair railings– welded, prefabricated, aluminum, combined.

The positive aspects of concrete stairs

When developing the layout of a future home, you need to take into account that a concrete staircase, unlike wooden structures, is laid immediately on the spot and cannot be transported. But, despite this, it has a number of undeniable advantages:

1. The operation of such a ladder can be carried out at any repair stages (in whatever form it is).

2. When developing the design of the staircase structure, you can add various hidden cabinets and niches into it, which will significantly save space and help get rid of unnecessary things.

3. The financial costs of building a concrete staircase with your own hands are only the cost of materials. And the cost, in turn, depends on the quality of the selected sources. Moreover, when independent work work time intervals are easily calculated.

4. Concrete, as a material, itself is very moisture resistant and is also not susceptible to fire.

5. The concrete staircase serves as additional support for the entire building.

6. Concrete stairs are very resistant to external mechanical damage, which allows them to be used more intensively.

1. It is important to remember that when concreting flights of stairs, it happens in one step and the process itself begins from the bottom up.

2. To avoid “mobility” of the concrete solution, it is recommended to add crushed stone with a particle size of 10-20 mm.

3. When choosing a brand of concrete for the stairs, you need it to be at least B15.

4. Interesting fact: if heavy concrete is not compacted by 1%, its strength will decrease by 5-7%. That is why such a nuance as compaction can significantly affect the quality of a concrete staircase. This is exactly what an electric vibrator is used for.

5. Pouring cement mortar preceded by the formation of a reinforced staircase frame. Its main function is to strengthen the internal strength of all structures.

If you have any questions on this topic, ask them to the experts and readers of our project.

Concrete stairs have long ceased to be used only in the construction of multi-storey panel or brick houses. Planning construction own home with two or more floors, many still at the design stage decide to build a strong and reliable structure indoors concrete stairs to move between different floors with your own hands.

This option for lifting to a height is very convenient to use, and when planning, you can take into account your own wishes. For example, design the height of the steps, depending on whether there are children or elderly people in the family, or set other desired parameters.

In this article you will learn how to pour concrete on a staircase.

Advantages and disadvantages of concrete stairs

If the main criterion when choosing a construction method flight of stairs is the durability and reliability of the entire structure, then the most likely solution would be to fill the stairs from durable concrete. Such structures have a number of undeniable advantages:

  • moisture resistance of the structure both inside and outside the house;
  • resistance to fire, especially if the decoration and finishing are also made of fire-resistant materials;
  • in terms of reliability and durability, they are comparable to the service life of the house itself;
  • silent, the steps of this design will not begin to creak, like wooden steps;
  • possibility of diversified designer finishing, decoration with wooden elements, marble;
  • There are many options for location, shapes and designs when making concrete stairs.

Concrete in the construction of private houses is several times superior to all other materials used for such purposes.

In this video you will learn how to pour formwork:

They are able to withstand enormous loads and do not require special care or repairs during operation.

Of course, such connecting structures have some disadvantages. These include:

  • high labor costs during DIY construction;
  • relatively higher price than simple wooden structures;
  • significant weight concrete structure, requiring reliable foundations at the bottom and at the top, support on the floors, which makes it impossible to erect such a staircase in light frame and wooden houses;
  • the long period of construction of the staircase, due to the long hardening of the concrete;
  • the need for preliminary calculations and volumetric preparation for the pouring process, which involves the production of formwork for the steps.

Despite all the listed disadvantages, the popularity of monolithic concrete stairs in private housing construction does not decrease. Especially when building two- or three-story houses made of aerated silicate bricks.

Necessary calculations of material and dimensions of the structure

Before you begin calculating the parameters for the construction of a concrete staircase in a private house, you should determine its location. Since the concrete structure will be heavy, it must rest on concrete base, so there is a need to pre-fill the foundation for the stairs. It is better to immediately provide a place for constructing a staircase when designing the entire house before starting construction.

You can calculate other parameters of a concrete staircase and understand how to make it yourself. The height of the rise is already known and is equal to the height of the ceilings, so it is necessary to determine the length of the future staircase and its angle of inclination. Maximum permissible angle for construction safe design it is considered 45°, but for convenience it is better to take this indicator around 26-33°.

Having determined the angle of inclination, it is easy to calculate the length of the staircase itself and its projection onto the floor. This can be done using a special calculator or independently, using the formula for calculating the hypotenuse right triangle, knowing the value of the angle of inclination and one of the legs (height of the room).


Based on the obtained value, the length of the space under the stairs is calculated. If the room does not allow for such a long structure, it is worth considering an option that includes several flights of stairs.

It is more difficult to build a spiral concrete staircase to the second floor, especially with an offset center, so it is better to trust a specialist.

Moreover, to carry out correct calculations, you will need knowledge in theoretical mechanics.

It should be placed in such a way that the height of the ceiling above the flight of stairs is approximately 2 meters or more. This will make climbing to the upper floors comfortable even for tall people. The recommended width of the structure for a private house is from 80 to 100 cm.

On next stage the width and height of the steps are calculated. The steeper the rise of the flight of stairs, the higher and narrower they will be. For a staircase with a small angle of inclination, on the contrary, the steps can be wide and their height smaller. You can determine the optimal parameters using tables, a special calculator, or by calculating yourself using a formula showing the relationship between a person’s step length, the height and width of the steps.


You need to calculate the quantity correctly the required material

Knowing the height of one threshold, you can calculate their number based on the height of the stairs. And, accordingly, based on the data obtained, determine the width of the step. The main thing is that the parameters of the steps must meet the requirements for ease of movement along them as much as possible.

The obtained values ​​can be adjusted within 5 mm. If the width of the tread is too small and does not allow you to place your foot normally, then so-called overhangs are made.

An important value for a heavy concrete structure is the thickness of the supporting screed. Its width is determined based on the height and length of the flight of stairs.

Stages of creating a monolithic concrete staircase with your own hands

When building a concrete staircase with your own hands, after preparation and calculations, you only have to complete several stages of its creation:

  • formwork for the concrete staircase is installed;
  • reinforcement is being installed;
  • risers are placed (partitions for forming steps);
  • pouring concrete;
  • stripping.

Preparatory work

Having decided on the dimensions of the staircase and calculated the main parameters, before starting to pour the concrete staircase, prepare all the necessary materials:

  • plywood with a thickness of 20 mm;
  • edged board – 30-35 mm;
  • reinforcement – ​​10-14 mm;
  • wire for tying reinforcement;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • metal corners;
  • concrete mixer;
  • cement, sand, crushed stone, plasticizer C-3.

Installation of the main formwork

How to make high-quality formwork for stairs? To correctly install the formwork for the subsequent pouring of a monolithic concrete staircase, you should step by step follow all the recommendations specified in the instructions. If the staircase rests on one side of the wall, then before installing the formwork, you can mark the parameters of the future structure on the supporting wall. When designing several flights, it is worth making a groove (recess) in the wall of about 10 cm, on which the transition platform will then rest. Reliability and reliability depend on the correct installation of formwork. appearance future building.


At the first stage, a board is installed perpendicular to the floor with a height equal height one step and a planned floor screed. A flat, continuous moisture-resistant plywood with a length equal to the length of one flight rests on it, which will become the basis for concrete slab. Installation of plywood at the desired angle is carried out using beams or special telescopic racks. The beams with parameters 100×100 mm will fully support the weight of the future structure. And to strengthen the formwork you can use metal corners.

The side parts of the formwork for the stairs are mounted to the plywood with self-tapping screws, and all wooden elements should fit tightly against each other so that the filling solution does not get into the existing cracks.

If non-moisture-resistant plywood and boards are used, they should be moistened with water or covered with film to prevent concrete from absorbing into the wooden structure.

Reinforcement

Reinforcing any concrete structure with reinforced concrete increases its strength. The first layer of reinforcement is laid at a distance of about 30 mm from the base of the formwork, and a mesh of rods with square cells 150-200 mm wide and long is constructed. You can place small steps or bricks under the structure. Longitudinal rods can be thicker than transverse ones, since they bear a greater load. Although most often they use reinforcement of the same diameter, for example, 14 mm.


It is recommended to connect the reinforcement together with a special wire; welding can weaken the entire structure. To strengthen the flight of stairs, you can lay out metal mesh in two layers. In this case, the second row needs to be placed 30-40 mm higher than the first, and it can be made from rods with a diameter of 6 mm with a cell width of 150 × 150 mm.

When laying reinforcing mesh you need to ensure that its edges are at a distance of 20-50 mm from the side formwork. Thus, the rods will be protected by a thick layer of concrete from external influences, which can lead to corrosion and destruction of the reinforcement.

Completion of formwork installation, installation of partitions and risers

After laying the reinforcement, they begin to install risers, which will help to pour the concrete steps evenly and correctly. To do this, a rectangle is cut out of a sheet of plywood with a height equal to the height of the future steps or 10 mm more. All panels are cut the same, since all the steps on the stairs will also be the same size. Three parts are attached to the resulting rectangle - a support board and two side wooden parts.

The length of the support board will be exactly the same as the length of the plywood riser, and the side parts (lintels) with a board thickness of approximately 100-150 mm are needed in order to attach the resulting part to the sidewalls or wall of the finished formwork base.


Don't forget about the installation of formwork

Having made one riser, you should try it on at the installation site and, if necessary, make changes, and then complete the remaining parts for the formwork of exactly the same size. Attach the jumpers to the sides and wall using self-tapping screws or dowels. The installation of each panel should be accurately measured and adjusted so that all risers are positioned strictly perpendicular to the floor.

The risers should be installed strictly along the upper edge of the step, but they can be located slightly below the lower edge.

This is done in order to create a small barrier for the concrete solution, which will facilitate the pouring process.

Pouring concrete

Having figured out how to make formwork for pouring a monolithic concrete staircase, you can begin preparing the concrete solution and pouring the frame. For construction durable structures choose concrete grade M250-300. And for the construction of a porch made of concrete, it is worth choosing frost- and moisture-resistant materials. The solution for pouring a flight of stairs is prepared as follows:

  • half of the water;
  • one part of cement M400;
  • two parts sand;
  • four parts of crushed stone;
  • superplasticizer S-3, 0.7% by weight of cement.


Pouring concrete begins with the first stage and gradually moves upward. Having filled the first two stages, it should be treated with a vibrator to remove the air inside the mixture. You can also lightly tap the formwork with a hammer so that the concrete mixture settles and you can add another portion.

Level the surface with a trowel and wait 10-15 minutes, during which time the mixture will harden a little and the next two steps can be poured. If, during further pouring of concrete, the first steps begin to rise under the pressure of the upper ones, they need to be leveled by removing excess concrete.

After finishing the concrete pouring work finished staircase Cover with polyethylene to prevent rapid hardening. The slower the concrete mixture hardens, the better it will set and the stronger it will be in the end. During the first week, the polyethylene is removed several times a day, and the surface is sprayed with water to avoid cracking of the concrete.

The order and timing of stripping

It takes at least 3-4 weeks for the concrete structure to set and reach its strength. Until the mortar has completely dried and the formwork has been removed, you should not walk along the flooded stairs; to do this, you need to provide other ways to move between floors. For example, using a simple wooden staircase.


A week after pouring, you can remove the formwork boards from the steps. This will allow you to evaluate the quality of the work done and, if necessary, fill the cracks again. After 2 weeks, the side boards are removed, and after another week and a half, you can remove the support in the form of beams and the lower part of the formwork. Now the ladder is completely ready to move along it.

Features of making a monolithic concrete staircase with your own hands

When it is already clear how to make a concrete staircase for your own home with your own hands, you need to think over a work plan. Since all spans and flights should be poured at one time, it is worth purchasing or renting a suitable concrete mixer and taking care of attracting help.

The process of installing formwork is also very labor-intensive, therefore, by inviting a specialist with experience in this field, you can avoid many problems in the future. Having made a mistake on preparatory stage or during calculations, it is almost impossible to correct it later.


Having decided to build a reliable concrete structure in your house to reach the upper floors, you can consider a lot of options possible finishing. And after removing the formwork, the staircase can immediately be used to move along it, even without finishing. Possible options construction makes the concrete structure suitable for small houses, and in a huge cottage it can become a real decoration.

In this article we will tell you how to make a concrete staircase with your own hands.

Positive sides:

  • Long service life;
  • Strengthens the structure of the building;
  • Moisture resistant;
  • Fireproof;
  • Silent;
  • Wide range of decoration and modeling.

Choose concrete option, since the costs are small. Investments are only for the purchase of material for production and personal time. Such a staircase is built simultaneously with the construction of a house. On the general drawing of the house construction, a place for installing a flight of stairs is planned.

First preparations

First of all, you need to calculate the number of steps to fit into a certain area of ​​the building. The ease of movement on the stairs depends on this. Behind standard height the step when lifting is 17 cm. The width must be at least one meter. Also take into account the embedded parts for future railings.

Material

To prepare concrete, take: cement (1 part), crushed stone with a grain size of 10-20 mm (3 hours), sand (2 hours), water (0.7 hours). If the concrete is thick, you can add a little more water.

To create the formwork, purchase 10x10 cm construction timber, waterproof plywood with a cross-section of 2 cm or an edged board of 3 cm, reinforcement, and a metal corner. The wooden structure is secured with 3.5 cm self-tapping screws, which are conveniently removed during dismantling.

Formwork is a box into which concrete is poured. It is being built right on construction site. The best material wood is considered to be used. It can be easily removed after the solution has hardened. The width of the boards should be equal to the height of the steps. Supports are installed perpendicular to the base of the stairs using special fastenings to the support.

It should be remembered that concrete stairs are heavy, which means the supports must be massive and durable.

The formwork boards are additionally fixed with a longitudinal plate to avoid deflection when pouring concrete. The entire structure is assembled with self-tapping screws so that it can be easily disassembled after use. If the use of formwork continues further, it is recommended to protect the tree waterproofing material: alkyd varnish (painting), roofing felt, glassine, oilcloth, old linoleum. This is done to prevent the boards from deforming when the concrete solution comes into contact with water.

To strengthen the flight of stairs, a frame is made of metal rods. It is laid along the load-bearing edges and connected by welding at a distance of 3 cm from the formwork to the reinforcement. To attach the iron assembly to the wall, pins are driven into it.

Types of staircase structures

Of all the designs, the main types can be distinguished:

  • helical - looks like a spiral twisted in the center;
  • rotary - marches can be located to each other at an angle of 90 o and 100 o;
  • straight - the most convenient for climbing; they do not require much physical effort to climb, but it takes a large number of usable area.

First, prepare the concrete mixture. Before pouring, wooden plugs or iron pins are placed in the formwork on the side where the handrails will be for further fastening. Then they begin pouring concrete into the formwork boxes. To prevent the edges of the steps from crumbling during operation, a metal corner is welded to them.

Filling should be done in one go to avoid peeling.

After filling the formwork, the solution must be compacted and leveled. Only after the concrete has completely dried do they begin to dismantle the wooden form and walk on the stairs.

Indoors, a concrete staircase is rarely left without cladding. For finishing reinforced concrete forms the following can be used:

  1. Laminate.
  2. Natural wood.
  3. Stone.
  4. Ceramic tiles.

Glass is used to make the parapet; the decoration of the entire staircase can be a piece of metal. Wooden railings in the form of sculptures look rich. The choice of fencing option depends on the style of interior design of the room and what material the flight of stairs is decorated with.

Cladding is done not only on steps and platforms, but also reverse side stairs. For this they use decorative plaster, ceramic or porcelain tiles. A staircase made using such methods undoubtedly always pleases the eye of people - regardless of whether it is located in a cottage outside the city or connects the floors of an enterprise.

If it is noticed that some deformations have appeared in the stairs, for example, cracks or something else, it is necessary to eliminate them in a timely manner. To do this, you can use the following methods, depending on the defect: cement-sand mortar, anchor bolts or something else. If you carry out preventive maintenance on time, you can avoid the occurrence of defects.

Have you built the stairs in your home yourself? Share personal experience with our readers by leaving a comment on the article.

Video

We invite you to watch a video about the construction of a monolithic concrete staircase.

Not a single residential or industrial building is conceivable without such structural element like a staircase. A series of steps serves as a communication point between rooms located at different levels. She experiences considerable stress every day. Therefore, increased demands are placed on it in terms of comfort, reliability and safety. This article will talk about how to make a concrete staircase with your own hands.

  1. Reinforced monolithic concrete stairs
    • Staircase design
    • Calculation of stage parameters
  3. Decoration Materials
  • Stair structures can be rectangular shape, rotary and spiral. But regardless of the type, the concrete architectural element has the following advantages.
  • Resistance to moisture, temperature fluctuations and aggressive environments. Therefore, such structures are erected when interior design indoors and outdoors.
  • High strength is achieved by reinforcing the concrete mixture. The steps can withstand very impressive loads, which makes them incredibly reliable and practically durable.

Monolithic concrete stairs photo

  • Concrete stairs provide ample opportunities concerning decorative finishing. Here you can use porcelain stoneware and ceramic tiles, wooden planks (parquet, laminate) and other materials.
  • No steps required special care and regular impregnation. If a defect occurs on the surface, it is enough to re-fill the area to be restored with concrete.
  • The construction of the structure is carried out on its own without the use of special or expensive building materials, as well as without the involvement of special equipment and specialists.
  • Filled steps are ready for use within 7-10 days. This allows you to use them at all stages of construction, carry tools, materials, etc.
  • Since the staircase is erected simultaneously with the construction of the house, in addition to its direct purpose, it plays another role - constructive.
  • Among the disadvantages are its impressive weight, massiveness (takes up a lot of space) and solidity - the staircase cannot be dismantled, rearranged or modified.

Concrete grade for staircase structures

  • To make concrete stairs, ready-made mortar M200 class B15 or M250 class B20 is usually used. This material is based on fine crushed stone, with the addition of binders, modified additives and other fillers.
  • When choosing concrete for the construction of external stairs, it is important to pay attention to the frost resistance (F) and water resistance (W) indicators.

To mix concrete mortar Mark 250 on your own, use the following proportions:

  • 1 part concrete M400;
  • 2 parts washed sand;
  • 4 parts of crushed stone fraction 10×20 mm;
  • about ½ part water;
  • 0.7% by weight of cement plasticizing additive C-3.

Mixing the mortar the old fashioned way, using a pallet and a shovel, is incredibly difficult, especially since filling the steps must be done in one go. Therefore, it is recommended to borrow a compact concrete mixer from your neighbors or rent it from construction crews.


First, sand and crushed stone are poured into the device, and the bulk materials are mixed for at least 2-3 minutes. Then a plasticizer (in dry or concentrated form) and water are added. All components are mixed for at least 5 minutes.

Important! Poor mixing of all components reduces the final strength of concrete by 20%.

How to make a concrete staircase with your own hands

Staircase design

  • If work on the construction of a staircase is carried out independently (without the involvement of specialists), then the project on paper is drawn up on its own. The plan calculates the dimensions of the room, the slope of the structure, its length and width, and also takes into account the presence doorways, method and direction of door opening.
  • The construction of concrete stairs requires special attention to the angle of inclination. The optimal value of this parameter is in the range of 26-37º. A staircase that is too steep can become life-threatening, while a staircase that is flatter will take up a lot of usable space, and it is not particularly comfortable when ascending/descending.


  • When developing a project, you must act consistently. First, the number of steps is calculated, then their length, width, angle of rotation, platform parameters, etc. Only when the right approach we can talk about the safety and convenience of the design.

Calculation of stage parameters

  • In addition to strength characteristics, such a design must meet operational characteristics. The selected parameters should be as comfortable as possible when ascending or descending while maintaining evenness of step.
  • As for the width, it can vary from 0.9 to 1.5 meters. Undoubtedly, the wider the staircase, the more convenient it is, but the area of ​​the room does not always allow the construction of structures of the preferred size. Therefore, when designing, we take into account not only comfort, but also free squaring.

There are average indicators of stages that determine ease of use:

  • height 190-220 mm;
  • width 250-330 mm.


  • To correctly calculate the parameters, use the simple formula 2a+b=640, where: a - step height; b - step width; 640 mm is the average length of a human step.
  • Substituting the average data, we get: 2×190+280=660. As you can see from the example, the selected dimensions fully correspond to comfortable performance characteristics.
  • Using the Pythagorean theorem, we calculate the length of the march. Here it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the decorative flooring. The result obtained is divided by the height of one step. For example: 3000/190=15.8, which means there are 16 steps for a 3-meter long flight.
  • If during the calculations the tenth part is small (for example, it turned out to be 14.3 or 16.4), then it is recommended to take only the whole number as a basis, and distribute the remainder evenly over the height of all steps (the damage to the comfort of ascent and descent will be insignificant).

Important! When calculating, you should take into account the height of the tallest family member. So that when he gets up on the second step he doesn’t hit his head on the ceiling. Here it is necessary to add 400 mm to a person’s height (the average height of two steps without finishing material!)

Formwork for pouring concrete stairs

  • Formwork assembly is one of the key aspects of construction. To concrete surface turned out to be as smooth as possible, use moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of at least 20 mm. For the side walls of steps and the formation of risers, edged boards with a thickness of 30-35 mm are used.

  • For the bottom surface, take a solid slab. Its installation at the desired angle is carried out using vertical bars or special telescopic stands, which can be rented from construction crews without any problems.
  • Since the mass of the concrete mixture is quite large, it makes sense to use metal corners and bars to strengthen the formwork. It is recommended to attach additional reinforcing elements to the bottom of the formwork every 50-80 cm.
  • Next, steps are formed using edged boards. When installing, take as a basis inner dimensions, that is, when fixed, the external parameters of each step will be 30-35 mm (exactly the width of the lumber used) greater than the design indicators.
  • Wooden elements must fit tightly to each other, the formation of gaps and cracks is not allowed. To prevent the solution from being absorbed into the lumber, before pouring it, it is generously moistened or the walls are protected with plastic film, as well as any waterproofing material.

Important! When assembling the structure, self-tapping screws are used. Their location should be only external, so that when dismantling the formwork there are no difficulties that could lead to partial destruction of the concrete surface.

Technology for reinforcing concrete stairs

  • To give strength to the staircase structure and prevent the edges of the steps from crumbling, reinforcement is carried out. For the work you will need steel reinforcement with a diameter of 8 and 14 mm, knitting wire, as well as a tool for bending and cutting rods, pliers.
  • Thicker steel rods are used for longitudinal reinforcement, and smaller diameter rods for transverse reinforcement. At a distance of at least 30 mm from the bottom of the formwork, 14 mm reinforcement is laid in increments of 150-200 mm. To do this, it is enough to place broken pieces of brick or ceramic tiles under it.


  • Transverse rods are also laid out at a distance of 150-200 mm from each other. Fixation of the reinforcement in the form of a mesh is ensured by means of a knitting wire, fastened and tightened with pliers.
  • For reliability, you can lay out the second row of the finished mesh with 150x150mm cells from 4 mm reinforcement. This layer should be positioned in such a way that the concrete layer covers the metal by 30-40 mm. To ensure such parameters, original chairs are prepared from metal rods.
  • If the structure will rest on three sides (top, bottom and side), then reinforcement is laid in advance during the construction of the walls. As a result, the most durable fixation of the staircase from the side is ensured.

How to properly pour concrete stairs

  • The concrete solution begins to be poured from the bottom step. The frame is filled in small portions. After filling, tamping is performed with an electric vibrator. This tool will help get rid of air voids that adversely affect the strength characteristics of the finished structure.
  • In addition to the vibrator, you can gently tap with a hammer on all sides of the formwork. As a rule, the mixture will settle 2-3 cm from the required level; the deficiency is compensated by a new portion of the concrete mixture. Next, the tamping process is repeated.


  • If the solution no longer settles, then the surface is finally leveled with a trowel or rule. Between concreting each step, a break of 10-15 minutes should be maintained, during which time the pressure of the solution drops slightly.
  • To move upwards, you can lean a standard wooden stairs or use regular boards. After completion of the work, the concrete is covered with plastic film, which prevents it from drying out prematurely.

Important! During the first 2-3 days, the polyethylene is periodically removed, and the concrete surface is wetted by spraying; a direct stream of water should be avoided.

  • The frame is dismantled after 3-4 weeks; it is during this period that the concrete mixture will gain at least 80-90% strength.
  • The undoubted advantage of concrete surfaces is their absolute maintainability. Therefore, if any defects are found after drying, they can easily be corrected by partial “patches” or re-filling. However, in order to avoid financial and time costs, it is better to do it once according to all the rules, putting in more effort and effort.

Decoration Materials

  • It is not recommended to leave a concrete staircase without further finishing. After some time, the edges of the steps will begin to crumble. And the appearance of the stairs leaves much to be desired, although many modern styles welcome concrete structures in their original form.
  • Depending on the style direction, the steps are lined with porcelain tiles, ceramic mosaics, wooden planks. The side walls and bottom surface of the stairs are usually plastered and then painted.


  • For safety of movement, the staircase structure is equipped with fences. Balusters and railings are made of wood and chromed metal. They are distinguished by high decorative qualities Forged Products, which can be called real works of art.

Monolithic concrete stairs are the strongest and most durable. Therefore, it is it that is most often present in capital concrete or brick houses with several floors. The “life” of such a concrete structure without repair is calculated in decades. Timely repairs can make it almost eternal. At the same time, despite its monumentality, making a concrete staircase yourself is not at all difficult. Let's consider all the steps that need to be taken to build a monolithic concrete staircase, step by step.

If you want to understand in more detail, then read on.

Stage #1. Choosing the type of staircase

First you need to choose the shape and type of staircase design. By design, all monolithic concrete stairs can be divided into straight (single-flight and double-flight) and spiral (spiral).

The simplest option is a straight single-flight staircase inscribed between two walls. In this case, the end parts of the stairs, as such, are absent and the formwork elements are attached directly to the walls.

It is more difficult to build a staircase supported by only one wall. To form the free end of such a staircase, one side part is added to the formwork structure.

Exist marching stairs without supports on the walls, that is, they rest only on two points - the upper and lower ceilings. To build such a staircase, it is necessary to assemble formwork with two side parts.

Despite the simplicity of the device, building a single-flight staircase of the required height in an ordinary house it doesn't always work out. Or rather, there is not enough space to install it. Then they build a two-flight staircase, the flights of which are located among themselves at the required angle (traditionally 90°). Such designs come with interflight platforms or winder steps.

However, the most decorative (but also difficult to implement!) among monolithic stairs are screw designs. The difficulty lies in the manufacture of formwork irregular shape, which can form a curved staircase. For such formwork, many custom-made curved and bent panels are used. Also labor-intensive is knitting an irregularly shaped frame.

Spiral staircases can rest on one wall or be located at a distance from the walls, that is, have two side faces of their own.

Thus, for home handyman who does not want to use the services of professionals, it is better to prefer a straight single-flight staircase for construction.

Stage #2. Design calculation

Before starting construction of the staircase, it is necessary to carry out a preliminary calculation of all its elements. And develop a drawing indicating the dimensions of the structure, the number of steps, their width and height.

Climbing angle

First important characteristic– the angle of ascent (inclination), on which the height and length of the stairs depend. Given the same height, a staircase with a rise angle of 25° will always be longer than a staircase with an angle of 35° or 45°. For example, a staircase with an angle of 25° and a height of 3 m forms a projection of a span equal to 6.4 m. A staircase of the same height with an angle of 35° - a projection of a span of 4.3 m. A staircase with an angle of 45° - a projection of a span of 3 m.

In other words, to build a staircase with a span angle of 25°, it is necessary to spend 2.35 times more materials than to build a staircase with an angle of 45° (with the same height of both structures).

Step sizes

Having chosen the height and angle of inclination of the stairs, you need to break the structure into steps. Optimal dimensions: step height – 16-20 cm, width – 27-30 cm.

If you make steps higher than 22 cm, then it will be difficult to climb them, especially for older people. People accustomed to the traditional step of steps will stumble and fail to reach the next step when climbing. There is a risk of falling while descending. Too low steps (below 15-14 cm) are also inconvenient. An adult will “mince” along them. Although they are safer for older people. They are also suitable for children.

As for the width of the steps, it is unreasonable to make them less than 25 cm. The foot will slip when stepping onto the tread. A step width greater than 31-32 cm will force a person to lengthen his step in order to get to the next step.

When choosing the size of a step, you can use the formula: 2H + L = 60-64 cm. In this case, H is the height of the step (riser), L is the width of the step (tread). For example, the figures above optimal sizes fit perfectly into the calculations: 2 x 16 cm + 30 cm = 62 cm.

Stair width

The width of the staircase usually depends either on the distance between the walls where it needs to be fitted, or on the availability of free space. It is undesirable to choose a width of less than 80 cm. This is too narrow a staircase; going up (or down) it will feel like walking through a tunnel. In addition, it is inconvenient (or impossible) to carry furniture along such stairs. Optimal width– more than 0.9 m.

The calculations of the staircase design are described in detail in the video:

Stage #3. Formwork assembly

After all the calculations, it’s time to create the future outlines of the stairs. That is, to build formwork into which concrete will be poured in the future.

Assembling the formwork is the most difficult stage in the construction of a staircase. It requires scrupulous, careful work with precise alignment of all pre-calculated dimensions of the structure. Any mistake at this stage can lead to failure of everything. construction project(the shape of the structure, its dimensions will be disrupted, and the surface will be inconvenient for subsequent finishing).

To build the formwork you will need:

  • waterproof plywood (thickness 12-18 mm) or edged board (thickness at least 30 mm) - for the lower part of the formwork (bottom), edging and risers;
  • waterproof plywood (thickness 6.5-9 mm) - for curved sections (if necessary);
  • boards (thickness 50 mm, width 150-170 mm) or support bars 100x100 mm - for supports;
  • bars 100x100 mm - for connecting sheets of plywood or boards to each other;
  • metal corners, wood screws (3.5 mm) - for fastening.

Wooden formwork elements in contact with concrete must be absolutely smooth. Then the concrete surface after hardening will be smooth, practically not requiring finishing. Therefore, the sides of the boards that are planned to be placed with inside formwork must be pre-sanded. If smooth plywood is used, then no preliminary leveling actions are necessary.

The formwork is assembled as follows:

1. Place the lower part of the formwork, which will hold the entire mass of concrete. To do this, you can use dimensional sheets of plywood or boards. They are tightly fastened to each other using bars secured with outside formwork (you can use ready-made wooden boards). From below, the lower part of the formwork is supported by boards or support bars. The pitch of the supports must coincide with the pitch of the steps.

Fastening the formwork elements is usually done using self-tapping screws rather than nails. The fact is that after the concrete hardens, the formwork will have to be removed, which is easy to do by unscrewing the screws. It is more difficult to remove nails, so they try not to use them for formwork.

2. The side edges of the stairs are limited by flanging - plywood or edged board. The edging is also reinforced with boards (bars) with outside, since on its own it will not be able to withstand the pressure of concrete. The boards are securely fastened to the flange, especially if they were set at an angle. At this stage, the structure is usually reinforced (see stage #4).

3. Install the boards (plywood) of the risers, securing them to the flange (or to the wall) using metal corners.

4. All joints of formwork elements (plywood, boards) are sealed cement-sand mortar or align the corner grinder, plane. Such alignment of the formwork walls will allow you to obtain a smooth, even surface of the concrete staircase at the end of the work. This will make further work easier for the finishers, that is, plastering and grinding work on a ready-made concrete structure will be possible to a minimum.

Stage #4. Knitting and installation of reinforcing mesh or frame

If the staircase is small, then for reinforcement you can use a mesh knitted from reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm. The reinforcing bars are placed in increments of 15 and 20 cm to form a mesh with a cell of 15 x 20 cm. The bars are tied together using wire.

For a large staircase, a reinforcement cage is used. It consists of two or more meshes connected to each other by vertical rods. Leave a distance of 2-3 cm between the meshes.

The reinforcement frame (mesh) is a kind of “skeleton” of the structure; it will hold the frozen concrete mass. Therefore, the horizontal frame rods (mesh) are fixed in the wall for reliable connection with the future concrete staircase. To do this, holes of the required diameter are drilled in the wall and pins are driven in with a hammer.

The frame or mesh is laid on the lower part of the formwork at a distance of 2-3 cm from the bottom. To raise the reinforcement, you can use stones, bricks or special plastic supports.

Stage #5. Pouring concrete

For the stairs, use concrete of a grade no lower than M200 (class no lower than B15). It is either mixed independently using a concrete mixer, or ordered from RBU.

Very important rule: concrete for stairs must contain crushed stone of at least 10-20 mm in size. Large crushed stone will help hold the concrete in the space of the steps. A finer aggregate, on the contrary, will make the concrete mobile and viscous, which will lead to it flowing out of the formwork of the steps.

Filling is performed according to the following scheme:

1. Start pouring from the lower steps. First, the 2-3 lower steps are poured with concrete.

2. Compact the concrete. Tamping helps to increase the density and strength of the composition, as it removes air pockets from its thickness. Most easy way tamping: after pouring, the concrete is pierced with reinforcement in several places. However, this method is not very reliable. It should be remembered that 1% undercompaction of heavy concrete leads to a decrease in its strength by 5-7%! Therefore, professionals prefer to compact concrete not with reinforcement, but with a special mechanism - a construction vibrator.

With any type of compaction, some of the concrete will be squeezed out through the formwork. The extruded concrete is thrown up or down (to where it is observed an insufficient amount mixtures).

3. The steps are given their final shape by smoothing them with a trowel (trowel).

4. All overlying steps are poured in the same way.

5. The poured concrete is covered with a film to prevent premature hardening and the formation of cracks. Instead of film, you can use another method: periodically moisten the concrete that has not yet hardened by sprinkling it with water.

Stage #6. Removing formwork

The formwork is removed carefully, in several stages. First, after a few days (5-7 days), when the concrete mass has hardened, remove the formwork from the steps and the flanging. You need to act carefully. If the concrete is still wet, under no circumstances should the formwork be removed. Otherwise, the surface of the stairs will be damaged (possibly cracking or chipping).

The steps and ends of the stairs, freed from formwork, are leveled using grinding machines. It is most convenient to use an ordinary grinder with a circle on concrete, which will make the surface of the stairs smooth and even.

Only after 21-28 days (depending on the weather and the rate of concrete hardening) can the retaining boards and the lower part of the formwork be removed. This is a very important moment. If the support is removed too early, there is a risk of collapse and destruction of the entire concrete structure.

After complete removal of the formwork, the lower part of the stairs is sanded with grinders.

Stage #7. Finishing

There are many options for concrete stairs variety of options finishes:

  • tile;
  • laminate;
  • tree;
  • porcelain stoneware;
  • acrylic stone;
  • carpet

However, according to technology, all these materials must be laid on a flat surface. After removing the formwork, minor irregularities may be observed on the concrete stairs (especially on the surface of the steps): bumps, holes, chips. Therefore, before starting to lay the finishing coating on the stairs, all its surfaces are sanded and plastered.

Finishing the end parts of the structure usually consists of plastering and painting. Next, the steps are finished with one of the above-mentioned floor materials.