Puttying walls with your own hands: detailed instructions. How to putty walls - step-by-step instructions

We continue our series of articles about do-it-yourself wall putty. Today we'll talk about puttying ordinary walls- brick or panel (but not plasterboard), although the process diagrams are similar.

Classification and types of putties

Putties are classified into gypsum, cement and polymer.

Disadvantages and advantages of each type.

On a gypsum basis: They are low cost, they are perfectly leveled and do not shrink. The disadvantage here is their low resistance to moisture, which limits their scope of application. Gypsum wall putties should be used in dry rooms, and their use in rooms with high humidity or with a large temperature difference is unacceptable. The cost of one bag (20 kg) averages from 250 rubles.
Cement: have high degree resistance to moisture, but the degree of their shrinkage is just as high. This requires re-puttying. Such mixtures can be used in rooms with high humidity, such as the kitchen or bathroom.(read the article about puttying walls under wallpaper). Cement putties for walls, when dried, they only become stronger, but over time they lose their elasticity, which can lead to the appearance of microcracks. The price for this type of putty starts from about 200 rubles/bag (25 kg).
Polymer: have a lot of advantages: they perfectly resist moisture, do not shrink, and allow you to achieve High Quality treated surfaces. The only disadvantage here can be considered the high cost - starting from 290 rubles / bag (20 kg).
Leveling: designed for leveling walls after applying plaster. They have a high grain size, good strength and excellent adhesion to the surface. Recommended layer thickness is from 3 to 20 mm. Price: from 230 rub./bag (20kg).
To obtain a perfectly smooth surface and eliminate small flaws after leveling the walls, use finishing mixtures. They are inferior in strength to leveling putties. Applying them is not difficult. Recommended layer up to 4mm. Cost from 280 rubles/bag (20kg).
Universal mixtures combine the properties of finishing and leveling wall putty, but at the same time cost more - from 320 rubles/bag (20 kg). They are used on surfaces with minor imperfections, because... The quality is somewhat inferior to both types.

In addition to the composition putties are divided into leveling, finishing (for example, for last stage putty) and universal.

Putties are available in dry form, as well as in the form of ready-made mixtures. Dry putties last much longer and are much cheaper than ready-made mixtures.

They are produced in special bags. Their preparation is not labor-intensive: the powder is simply diluted with water using a special mixer in accordance with the instructions on the package. Of course, using a ready-made composition is much more convenient. However, if the applied layer is less than 2 mm, then such mixtures cannot be used. They also shrink a lot. Ready-made putty compositions are produced in special plastic buckets.

Which putty should I choose to putty the walls?

When asked which putty to choose for walls under wallpaper, we can say that when choosing putty you should take into account the working conditions, the quality of the surface being treated and the desired result. To purchase quality material, you should make purchases in branded construction stores.

You shouldn’t go to all sorts of markets to save money. This is where the risk of purchasing counterfeit products is high. A simple tip when choosing putty: you should pay attention to the packaging date. It is applied with precision down to the second. If you notice that the entire batch is packed in an instant, then most likely it is better to refuse such a purchase.

In general, the shelf life of putty is from 6 to 12 months in dry rooms at room temperature. After the expiration date, the putty loses its properties - it stops setting quickly. When purchasing, you should pay attention not only to the date of manufacture, but also to the integrity of the packaging. Bags with dry mixture should not be damaged, and buckets with ready-made solution should be tightly closed.

Scheme of working with a grinding stone

Video instruction

Instructions: how to putty the walls yourself

To putty walls with your own hands, you will need the following set of tools:

A drill with a “mixer” attachment and a container for diluting the composition (required when using a dry mixture).
Set of spatulas: small, large, angled. When working, you have to deal with different areas of surfaces - each of them has its own spatula. Spatulas are available in sizes 20mm, 40, 60, 80, 100, 200, 300, 400, 600, 800mm. Narrow ones up to 80mm are used for hard to reach places. Spatulas with a width of 80 and 100 mm are called stacking spatulas - they are used to take the mixture out of the bucket and apply it to a working spatula. Spatulas with a width of 200 and 300 mm are used to level out irregularities that are small in width and length. Wider spatulas are used to level highly curved surfaces.
Rollers or brushes. They are necessary for priming walls for putty. The primer should not be skipped, as this improves the adhesion of the mixture to the surface and improves the quality of work.
The rule is to need it in places where putty is applied in a thick layer. Long metal rule convenient when leveling thick layers of putty from walls. The rules come in different lengths - 1m, 1.5m, 2m, 3m. The optimal rule is 2m long. However, it is better to choose a convenient size of the rule individually.
A level for installing test beacons (as for) before applying starting putty to the walls. Levels range in length from 20cm to 2.5m. For domestic purposes, it is not necessary to buy the largest one; a level of 0.5 m to 1 m is quite sufficient.
Sandpaper - to obtain a perfectly smooth surface. It is better to purchase sandpapers with a grain size from 60 to 100. Sandpaper 60 is suitable for the basic stage (you should not take less than 60, as it will be too rough), and fine sandpaper 100 for grouting the finishing layer (skin above 100 will become heavily clogged with dust). It is more convenient to grout the walls after puttying using a manual sander.

Preparing the wall surface

Falling layers of plaster should be removed

Before applying putty to the walls under the wallpaper, you should prepare the surface to be treated. It must be clean without any stains of grease, soot, paint, etc. Falling layers of plaster should be removed. It is strictly not recommended to start work if the walls or ceiling are frozen.

Before puttingty walls, it is necessary to apply a primer to improve adhesion. One coat of primer is enough.

Starting putty of the wall surface

Plastering is done using special beacons, which help to apply the solution more evenly.

Starting putty is performed using coarse material (starting putty). This material is convenient to use when there are large differences in walls to hide unevenness and remove grooves and holes. The thickness of such a layer, applied at a time, can be up to 1.5 cm. To apply subsequent layers, you must wait until the previous one has dried.

If the differences in wall levels are more than 5 cm, then in this case, before applying the putty, the walls are plastered. Plastering is done using special beacons, which help to apply the solution more evenly. Before applying plaster, the walls are primed with a special solution, and before each layer of plaster they are additionally sprayed with water. Apply the plaster with a special spatula with a sharp wave of the hand. For better adhesion with the subsequent layer, the first layer should be given a slight roughness. As a rule, all movements are performed from the bottom up. After applying the plaster, it is leveled according to the rule.

Often, a special painting mesh is used to obtain high results.

Often, a special painting mesh is used to obtain high results. It is mounted on the wall (read good article about), and putty (or plaster if necessary) is applied on top. In this case, the putty adheres better, and the surface becomes much stronger and smoother. The painting mesh is attached to the first layer of putty without waiting for it to dry. The prepared piece of mesh is pressed into the still wet layer of putty. After drying, a second layer of putty is applied. This way, the mesh remains in the middle of the leveling layer of putty. The tensile strength of such a layer increases significantly, which helps to avoid the appearance of cracks.

The finishing putty is applied in a very thin layer, eliminating only the smallest pores and cracks.

How to putty: final stage

After completing the starting stage, finishing putty must be applied to the wall. Its main goal is to make the surface perfectly smooth and beautiful. If the starting putty was performed poorly, then using the finishing mixture will not correct the situation. The finishing putty is applied in a very thin layer, eliminating only the smallest pores and cracks. Therefore, before finishing, you should achieve a perfectly flat surface.

To process smooth corners, use a corner spatula.

When using a dry mixture, it is necessary to properly prepare the solution. It should be smooth and slightly stick to the spatula.
Apply with a large spatula at an angle of 30° starting putty in small portions. The putty should be applied diagonally, overlapping each subsequent stroke to avoid transitions and bumps.
To process smooth corners, use a corner spatula. First, use a small spatula to apply the mixture over the entire height of the corner. Then, using a corner spatula, level the surface of the corner.
After the starting layer has completely dried, the finishing putty is applied using a small and large spatula. Using a small spatula, apply the mixture in small portions onto a large one and apply it evenly to the surface. Layer thickness is about 1.5 -2mm.
After the putty has completely dried (this takes about 12 hours), you can begin finishing sanding with fine sandpaper.

To putty walls with your own hands, it is important to carry out all stages of the work efficiently and responsibly. In this case, you can get excellent result and save a lot of money on your work.

Good luck with your renovation!

Puttying is the process of leveling a surface using a mixture, a very common type of operation. There are several types of mixtures that can be used for this. Most popular look construction putty is a mixture based on gypsum. They are divided into two main types: starting or roughing and finishing.

The rough putty is a dry mixture, the finishing putty can be dry or “wet”. It is not difficult to prepare the composition: you need to read the instructions that are on each package.

Dry putty mixtures are sold in paper bags; prepared finishing wall putty is usually supplied in plastic buckets. The finishing solution does not require any additional preparation; it can be immediately applied to the wall.

The difference between the starting and finishing mixtures is that they have different fractions, or, more simply, different thickness grains The starting mixture can be applied in a thicker layer. It is slightly cheaper than the finish and has a darker, grayish color.

The final finishing mixture is usually white. Except gypsum compositions There are also other mixtures, such as cement-lime. This type of wall putty is often used for interior decoration premises using special machines.

The dry mixture is poured into the unit and water is connected to it. The machine prepares the solution and releases it under pressure. The finished mixture passes through the hose and is sprayed onto the wall.

Typically, this type of puttying is carried out simultaneously by two people. One applies the composition to the wall, and the second rule immediately levels it along the wall. This type of application of putty mass is called “ wet plaster" But the same putty can also be applied manually. There are also compositions that are used for puttying external surfaces. These mixtures contain cement.

Under wallpaper or painting - is there a difference?

Or they are not fundamentally different from each other. The only difference is that the wall that is subsequently going to be painted must have a higher smoothness and evenness of the surface. But, if you plan to glue thin and smooth wallpaper to the wall, the quality of the wall should also be no worse than the one that is being prepared for painting.

In order to prepare the solution you will need:

container in which you will mix the mixture;
drill;
mixer for putty.

You can prepare the solution simply by hand, using some other object. But if you need to putty large volumes, then it is better to use a drill with a mixer. This will save time, and the quality of the composition will be better. Do-it-yourself wall putty may have lumps that are difficult to smooth out later on the surface.

Let's look at the procedure for applying putty: 6 steps

Preparing the walls

Schematic illustration of wall preparation

First you need to examine the wall, clean the crumbling areas. You can check the places where the previous base is not firmly attached to the wall using a spatula. Using the sharp edge of the tool, draw several horizontal and vertical strips along the wall, pressing slightly on it.

If the surface is dense, only grooves from it will remain on it; if not, then pieces of putty will begin to fall off the wall. It is necessary to clean all such places from the old layer.

In addition, all greasy stains and dirt should be removed from the surface. Special attention should be given to those places where there are traces of fungus. The best remedy combating it is simply removing the infected areas. Afterwards, such areas should be treated with a fungicide, a solution that will prevent the formation of fungus on the surface. The walls should also be thoroughly dried before puttying.

Surface primer

The primer is necessary to protect the wall from the formation of mold on the wall and to improve the adhesion of the new layer to the surface.

Primers are divided into two types:

internal;
universal.

Internal ones are used for priming walls indoors; universal solutions are suitable for use both indoors and outdoors. The primer is applied with an ordinary roller or a wide brush. , the surface should be dried.

Preparing the mixture

It is prepared in the proportion indicated on the label. It is convenient to knead the mixture in portions as it is produced. After mixing, the solution is immediately ready for use. The period during which the putty can be used is usually indicated on the packaging. The frozen solution cannot be diluted with water. If the composition has hardened, you just need to throw it away and mix a new one.

Rough putty

Convenient to apply putty with two spatulas

The first layer applied to the wall is called rough. To do this, choose a starting putty. It is applied to the surface by rubbing evenly with a spatula. It is convenient to use two spatulas while working. One is larger, for rubbing the material over the surface of the wall, the second is smaller for taking the mass from the container onto a wide spatula. The wider the spatula, the more convenient it will be to work.

For interior spaces A spatula with a width of 300 - 450 mm is suitable. For facade works choose a tool 450 – 600 mm. Puttying walls before wallpapering may include only one rough stage of work, since in modern apartments, most often, volumetric ones are used, textured wallpaper, which hide surface roughness.

Tip: It is more convenient to putty from wall corner to corner, rather than from ceiling to bottom.

If the wall has big differences on the surface, you should not immediately apply too much thick layer putty mass. It is better to putty several times, drying each layer.

In order to carefully design the outer corners of the room (slopes around doors and windows), you should use special aluminum perforated corners. They are pressed into the mixture, checked for evenness with a level and puttied. Internal corners It is convenient to level with an angled spatula.

Cleaning the surface

The finishing mixture can be purchased either dry or ready-made. You can work with the finished mixture right away; the dry mixture should first be kneaded in the same way as the rough mixture. The finishing coat is applied in a thin layer. The task of the finishing mixture is to smooth and level the rough layer. That is, the rough layer should be even, the finishing layer only fills in the roughness of the wall and finally levels it out.

Finishing wall putty is most often done before painting, so that the wall looks perfectly smooth after painting.

The composition should be applied to the wall evenly, not in lumps. This will make it easier to distribute it over the surface and smooth it out.

To final level the surface, you can use a tool such as a foam trowel. He's in his own way appearance resembles an iron, only its surface is quadrangular. In the video below you can see how to putty walls for wallpaper or painting.

Grout

Sanding float for work

After drying, the wall should be sanded. This work is performed with a tool such as a sanding float. It has a flat surface. On both sides of the grater there are special fasteners with which the sanding paper is secured. Plates-skins for graters are sold separately; they come in different abrasiveness. Abrasiveness is essentially the amount of roughness of the sandpaper.

Gypsum putty after drying, it rubs well, so if you suddenly find an unevenness on the wall, it can be easily smoothed out with sanding paper.

We hope that this material was useful to you. And plastering walls is no longer so scary for you. Good luck and smooth walls!

You started the renovation and decided to putty the walls. But you don’t know at all where to start, what material to choose, and in general the whole process is shrouded in mystery and darkness. First, let's figure out what putty is and why it is needed.

The difference between plaster and putty

Starter plaster is a coarse powdery mixture that builders use to level walls. Before plastering, measurements are taken using a level and the degree of deviation of the wall from the ideal vertical is determined. In other words, this is done to ensure that the wall is level. The maximum thickness of the applied layer is about 5 cm. After drying, this mixture has roughness.

Putty is a powder used after plastering. Hence the name – finishing putty. It is plastic and makes the wall smooth. You can apply it in a maximum layer of 1-2 mm (and you won’t be able to do more). Finishing putty fills in small imperfections in the plaster, preparing it for painting or wallpaper.

Which putty is best for walls?

The putty is available both in paper bags in powder form and in the form ready mixture in plastic buckets. It is hardly possible to say which one is better, since this can only be understood through personal experience. The only difference is that the putty is ready-made and you cannot adjust its thickness.

Therefore, to begin with, it is better to use a powdered composition, and at the same time learn from your own experience how to dilute the mixture.

Depending on the composition, there are several types of putty: gypsum, cement and polymer.

Cement putty consists of sand and cement. This composition tolerates moisture well, but does not have plasticity. This means that cracks may appear over time. The surface will be rough after drying, so sanding is necessary. But it is great for outdoor work. She is not afraid of rain and snow.
Gypsum putty. If you're going to use gypsum putty, be prepared for the fact that it dries very quickly, so don't mix it too much. As it dries, there will be a stone in the bucket instead of putty.
Polymer putty has high elasticity and stretches well. It can be used for both outdoor and interior work. Using this composition you can achieve a perfectly smooth surface, but it is not cheap.

When choosing putty, it is important to consider what will be on the walls. Gypsum-based putty consists of many small grains that are visible after the surface has dried. Also, you can see characteristic stains due to certain properties of gypsum. Gypsum putty comes in beige, gray and even Pink colour. If you try to paint it, for example, white, you will have to apply several layers. This type of putty is difficult to paint over light colors. But it will fit perfectly under wallpaper.

Glue applied to the wall helps soak the composition. Because of this, the wallpaper may not stick well to the wall and stick in pieces. Wet wallpaper is problematic to trim from the bottom and top. Gypsum putty is not saturated with moisture as much as polymer putty. Better to use for painting polymer putty. As a rule, she white, soft consistency and looks perfectly smooth on the wall.

Is it possible to putty the walls yourself?

Puttying walls with your own hands is possible, but requires some practice. The first knowledge can be gained by watching a video or watching how specialists do it. Of course, at first it won't work out very well. But there is a silver lining: you can always count on polishing. Therefore, if it does not immediately turn out perfectly smooth, stripes and stains form, sandpaper will hide these defects.

What tools will you need?

In order not to run around looking for the necessary things in the midst of work, it is better to prepare everything right away.

drill with mixer;
plastic containers;
latex gloves;
roller with a long handle;
narrow spatula (5-7 cm);
wide spatula (25-35 cm);
serpyanka;
respirator;
stepladder (or table);
work clothes;
newspapers, rags, polyethylene.

If plaster is applied to the walls, then it is better to use a brush for priming. Since the roller will not be able to treat the surface effectively enough. We choose the width of the spatula ourselves. Standard width 35 cm, but for a beginner it is better to use a narrower one, as it is easier for them to work. A drill mixer is a special attachment for stirring the composition. Happens different shapes, doesn't really matter. Ideally, you can use a large bucket as a container. water-based paint. It does not split under the influence of a drill.

Preparing walls for finishing putty

First you need to clear the room of furniture. What you can bear, bear it. Dust from this process cannot be avoided. The floor must be covered with polyethylene or newspapers. The more surface you cover, the better.

Why prime the walls?

If the room was too dusty, clean the walls with a wet broom. In order for the putty to stick well to the walls, they must first be primed. Primer is a special liquid. After it dries, a microfilm of adhesive composition. The walls are completely degreased, cleaned and dust-free, so the putty will not fall off in the future. Pour the primer into a plastic container and dilute it with water. The concentration level is indicated on the bottle. Next, use a roller with a long handle to prime the walls. This process is similar to ordinary painting, the main thing is to ensure that the walls are completely primed. It’s easy to guess from the wet stains on the wall.

Some moments

Putting walls under wallpaper with your own hands is easier than painting. Wallpaper will hide small defects and imperfections. But you need to make sure that there is no previous wallpapers(if they were). Because under the influence of the primer they will get wet and stick to the putty.

The easiest way is to putty and prime gypsum boards (plasterboard sheets). There are no special recommendations for this, just move the roller from top to bottom. Whatever the surface, it is better to prime separately with a narrow brush near the ceiling, floor and sides, since the roller in these places does not reach all the way.

Puttying walls after plastering is a more labor-intensive process. Therefore, it is necessary to prime very well. To do this, it is better to use a brush to fill all the microcracks and depressions.

Which primer to choose

The primer is used to create an adhesive layer on the surface, which promotes favorable adhesion of the composition to the wall. When choosing a primer, you need to pay attention to the room. If it is damp, it is better to choose a primer with an antibacterial effect that prevents the formation of mold.

Alkyd primer has powerful properties, but does not penetrate into the material. It should not be used for plaster, putty and plasterboard. It is suitable for wood and iron because it has an anti-corrosion effect. In addition, such a primer creates a film on the treated surface, which is why the material does not breathe.
Latex primer is suitable for almost any surface. This perfect option in the case of plaster and crumbling surfaces. It is very moisture resistant, waterproof and elastic. But it has such properties due to the addition of synthetic substances to it, so it is not suitable for connoisseurs of environmentally friendly products.
Acrylic primer is best for home use. It does not have a strong odor, dries quickly and is easy to use. The thick composition is diluted with water to the desired consistency and applied to the wall. This primer can be used on any surface. And its price will pleasantly surprise you.
Primer deep penetration used in cases where the surface is friable, loose and not solid enough. It could be old plaster, wood, or just gypsum board with fallen corners. This primer penetrates deep into the material, giving it strength and water resistance, which is especially important in wet rooms.

Additional preparation of gypsum boards for primer

The joints between plasterboard sheets contain cracks and recesses. To eliminate unevenness in these places, it is better to use plaster. Thanks to its coarser composition, it will level the surface faster. But it’s not enough to just use a spatula. After the plaster dries, a crack forms at the joint site, since there is nothing for the composition to stick to in the area of the crack. To prevent this from happening, we use a serpyanka. Serpyanka is a mesh tape in a roll, similar to gauze. It happens different widths and on the one hand has sticky surface, making it easy to glue to the joints. After gluing the serpyanka, apply a layer of plaster from bottom to top. We make sure that it does not move and, if necessary, correct it. Drying time 2-3 hours. After this, remove small rocky particles sandpaper. The surface is now ready for priming.

Final wall putty. Technology

After the primer has dried, the surface is ready to apply the finishing putty. To prepare the composition, take a plastic bucket and pour a small amount of water into it, less than half. To begin with, it’s better to make a little composition to fill your hand. Then pour a little putty there, while stirring with a mixer. The consistency should be slightly less liquid than thick sour cream. We achieve uniformity of the composition, the complete absence of lumps, otherwise balls of dry powder will form on the wall. The mixture should not roll off the spatula. If this happens, it means it is too watery. It is very difficult to work with such a composition.

We proceed directly to puttying. We have two spatulas in our hands: large and small. Please note: the spatula is not absolutely even. It is curved more in one direction than in the other. It is necessary to define the “rounded” side. If you putty another one, stripes will remain on the surface.

Speaking about spatulas, it is worth noting that you need to choose stainless materials. Otherwise, during subsequent puttying, rusty stains will remain on the wall. We take a little mixture onto a small spatula and transfer it to a large one, distributing it evenly over the entire surface. Starting from the window, we begin to putty the wall, creating a non-transparent layer of 1-2 mm. If you make the layer too thick, it will be more difficult to smooth out and cracks may form as it dries. When working with plasterboard, the direction of movement of the spatula does not matter, since the surface is smooth. On a plastered wall, dried large particles have their own direction. Therefore, we simply repeat it when puttingty. This will become clear as you work.

Important: the uniformity and smoothness of the putty is very dependent on the lighting. Flaws that are not visible in daylight may become noticeable when illuminated with electric light.

Puttying walls for painting implies a uniform layer of composition without gaps. If in some place the layer is thinner, the paint will have a different shade. The difference between wallpaper putty is that the wallpaper will hide small errors.

As you work, various stripes and stains will appear on the wall. Let's level out the situation as best we can. But don’t forget that there is still life-saving polishing.

Sanding walls

Wall sanding is used to remove small irregularities, streaks and bumps. This process can be either manual or mechanized.

To sand the walls, use regular sandpaper. It differs in particle size. The lower the number of the skin, the rougher its surface. For finishing putty, sandpaper of larger sizes is suitable. If large scratches remain on the wall, then you need to use a finer piece of sandpaper.

In addition to sandpaper, diamond mesh is also used. It differs in the size of the cells, and, unlike sandpaper, it is not clogged with putty. It can be used either manually or using a special holder.

The grinding itself is necessary to eliminate remaining defects; even a beginner can handle it. This process is very dusty, so be sure to wear a respirator. Sanding is done in a circular motion. If you sand in one direction, noticeable scratches will form.

After finishing sanding, the surface needs to be primed again, as a large amount of white dust will remain on it. Wait until it dries and proceed to further work. Puttying walls with your own hands for beginners may seem labor-intensive and complex process. In fact, this is not the case, you just have to start.

When starting a home renovation, you should draw up an accurate, comprehensive work plan and strictly follow it. Special attention should be given to the walls. Unfortunately, no paint, whitewash or wallpaper can hide cosmetic defects and blemishes wall panels. Even in a new, newly built building, the quality and evenness of the walls leave much to be desired, which means that you will have to do some things yourself.

Putty is a building material that allows you to level walls and get rid of cracks and irregularities before final finishing or decorating walls or other panels, which will allow you to make quality repairs.

Types of putties and their properties

Manufacturers building materials They offer putties that are already prepared and dry, sold in bags in the form of mixtures. When choosing this or another form of material release, you should pay attention to the markings indicated on the packaging. The letters KR or LR indicate that the putty is intended for ordinary rooms, and the VH marking implies use for rooms with high humidity.

There is no noticeable difference between the ready-made putty and the dry mixture. There are small nuances, such as additional additives, the maximum layer thickness obtained in one application.

An open jar or prepared amount of putty mixture must be used within 24 hours, otherwise it will lose all its properties, it will be difficult and difficult to apply, and good result when working with such a tool is not guaranteed.

There are also starting and finishing putties designed for certain stages of puttying.

To dilute the dry mixture you will need:

dry putty mixture;
water;
mixing container;
construction mixer or drill with a special attachment.

Usually putty is diluted in a ratio of 1 liter cold water for 2.5 kg of dry mixture.

The resulting putty mixture should be close in consistency to thick sour cream. Too much liquid composition will flow down the wall, thicker ones will clump in a limited area, preventing you from applying an even layer of the product.

It should be remembered that the resulting mixture cannot be thickened with an additional portion of dry powder, nor diluted with water. Particular attention should be paid to preventing the entry of foreign matter and dirt (particles of old material from the mixer, small stones, etc.).

Necessary tool

Puttying is not a complicated process and can be done independently. The work will require various tools.

different sizes small to large (some wall areas will require spatulas up to 60cm long). The blades of working spatulas should be even and smooth, without jagged edges. If your spatulas do not meet this requirement, you need to lightly sand the surfaces with fine sandpaper.
, you will need it to apply a fair amount of putty to particularly large irregularities and cracks in the walls.
. This tool is useful when repairing accidental damage to a fresh layer of putty. Due to the elasticity of the material and small sizes The spatula is convenient for applying to the surface small portions putty and allows you to level out the recesses without creating new unevenness.
Level .
. Fine-grained sandpaper will be very useful for the final grouting of completely puttied walls. And coarse sandpaper will come in handy before applying the first layer of putty mixture; this paper is good for rubbing the walls, removing unevenness and roughness.
, firmly fixing and holding the abrasive. It should be remembered that some coatings cannot be sanded after the final coat!
Primer and priming tools. Brushes and rollers must be clean and free of foreign materials.
Corner profile or painting mesh.

Putty stages

The entire process of applying putty material can be divided into successive stages.

Stage 1. Removing old paint or wallpaper and cleaning the walls

The main task of this stage is to make the walls as clean as possible. To do this, all stains (rust, dirt, grease) should be removed. Mold localization areas should be treated with specially designed compounds. All decorative cladding materials from the walls must be removed. Old plaster- knock down. When carrying out the above work, spatulas, construction removers and other solutions are used to facilitate the stage of cleaning the walls. Cleaned walls need to be dried without drafts; on average, drying takes from 12 to 24 hours.

Stage 2. Primer

Many people neglect priming the walls, which is absolutely in vain. The surface treated with a primer acquires greater strength and is better suited to puttying, due to the good adhesion of the putty mixture to the primed wall.

“Clean” walls are primed in two layers; if the walls are to be plastered, one layer of primer before puttying is sufficient. The primer creates a thin film on the surface of the wall and protects against the development of fungus and mold.

To work, you will need two spatulas - the middle one for collecting the working mass from the container and distributing it with an even comb over more large spatula, which will level the putty on the wall. “Working” spatulas may vary depending on the section of the wall.

Experts advise starting work from the left edge and moving clockwise. The wall is puttied slightly overlapping, trying to even out the putty mixture as much as possible. It is important to avoid applying too much large quantity putties. The spatula should be moved diagonally, imitating the movements of car wipers, running the tool along the wall at an angle of 30-35 degrees towards you and without too much pressure.

It is important to let each layer dry thoroughly - this will guarantee a strong and durable coating.

How to handle corners?

To get a perfectly even corner, you can use a special corner spatula. The main nuance is that the putty mixture is applied to the wall itself and leveled with a spatula from top to bottom.

There is an option to use a corner profile, which is glued into the corner before the first puttying or plastering. However, this method is not applicable if the walls are being prepared for painting.

In this case, you can leave more putty in the corners and bring the joints of the wall panels to an ideal state at the final sanding stage.

Stage 3. Applying the first layer of putty

The first layer is usually the densest. If the walls are too uneven, then a special mesh is attached over the entire surface area, which is glued construction glue. If the walls are fairly even, then the painting mesh is glued only in the corners (internal and external). The stronger and stiffer the material, the smoother the putty surface will be.

If there are grooves and deep cracks in the walls, then the putty is first applied locally, having previously primed the crevice, and then the entire wall is treated with putty.

Construction brands offer special products for this stage starting putties, which have higher elasticity and allow you to apply a layer up to 1 cm thick. But such a layer will take at least 24 hours to dry. The recommended thickness of the starting layer is 5 mm.

Stage 4. Second putty using beacons

This stage of work is similar to the previous one, only during its implementation the evenness of the wall is constantly checked building rule or level. The second layer is much thinner than the first.

An important point: when performing the second puttying, you need to “stretch” the surface as best as possible, giving it maximum evenness.

Stage 5. Final third puttying

Most thin layer, its thickness is no more than 2.5 mm. There are also special mixtures for this stage, the main task of which is to give the surface smoothness. But, if the previous steps were performed poorly, this layer will not be able to correct the situation.

Stage 6. Final drying

Putty walls are dried at closed windows and temperature changes. Sharp fluctuations in thermal conditions and drafts can cause cracks and deformations in the putty coating. Drying using electrical installations and air heaters is unacceptable. That is, you need to dry the room with the windows closed but the interior doors open.

Stage 7. Grouting and sanding

To give the wall a final smoothness, you need to sand it using a holder. It is important to understand that when preparing walls for wallpapering, they must be sanded with an abrasive grain size ranging from P80 to P120. When preparing a wall for painting - from P120 - P150, after which the wall is primed and dried again.

Puttying is not a very complicated process, but it requires patience and certain skills in working with a spatula and tools.

Video - How to putty walls correctly?

Anyone who has ever dealt with the renovation of premises knows very well what the “ideal” walls are in our houses. These are continuous pits, tubercles and cracks. If the defects are very large, then you cannot do without plaster or drywall, and to correct minor surface defects you can use a special finishing composition- putty. In today's article we will look at what this composition is, its types, in what cases it is used and how to properly putty walls and ceilings.

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What is putty and why is it needed?

Putty or, more correctly, putty (from the name of the tool “spatula”) is a fairly plastic finishing material that is used to eliminate surface defects, as well as create durable and solid foundation for painting or wallpapering. The preparation of walls or ceilings consists of several stages, and each of them requires its own type of this construction and finishing composition.

Take note:

Dry or ready-made putty mixture, which can be starting, finishing and universal, consists of the following main ingredients:

gypsum;
various fillers;
plasticizers;
thickeners and hardeners.

Types of putty

As we have already mentioned, finishing work using putty is carried out in several stages, and each of them requires its own type of special mixture, namely:

starting putty designed to eliminate surface defects and is the basis for decorative finishing walls and ceilings;
finishing mixture used to create the final decorative layer;
universal putty can be used simultaneously as a starting and finishing mixture.

What spatulas are needed for puttying walls and leveling corners?

Spatulas are used in many types of construction and finishing work, and each requires its own tool. They differ in size and shape. The table shows the main types of spatulas indicating their purpose.

Spatula type	Work performed	Type and features of the tool
	correction of defects after applying the initial layer of starting putty; sealing cracks and small depressions; finishing of structures of complex shape; sealing joints plasterboard sheets(GKL).	The spatula is trapezoidal in shape and usually has a wooden handle. It is characterized by a small thickness of the working plate and has an elastic and flexible stainless steel blade.
	The spatula is used to perform facade work and interior decoration as an auxiliary tool.	trapezoidal shape of the working surface; the blade is inflexible, as it is made of carbon steel; working surface width – 300−600 mm.
	The tool is used for puttying external and internal corners.	It is a metal plate bent at a right angle and equipped with a handle.

What is the best wall putty to use when leveling surfaces?

In addition to the fact that putty can be starting, finishing and universal, it also differs in composition. So, putty mixtures are:

acrylic – used for interior finishing work. This type of putty is highly moisture-resistant and versatile, protects walls from dampness, and is also used to create a decorative finishing layer and is suitable for working with wooden surfaces;
water-dispersed – has high elasticity, good adhesion, resistance to cracks and shrinkage, and is also durable;
oil-glue mixture. The putty composition is made on the basis of drying oil and is ideal for creating a finishing layer before painting the surface with oil paints;
cement putty excellent for working with concrete, stone and brick surfaces in rooms with high humidity;
gypsum mixture used for working in rooms with low level humidity .

Why do you need putty - different for each layer

Applying any putty in several thin or one thick layer is ineffective, since the material is expensive and drying will take a lot of working time. Therefore, to eliminate significant defects and level the surface, plaster is used, followed by a starting (1-3 mm) and finishing (up to 0.5 mm) layer with putty. To create a high-quality and more durable finish, it is necessary to use materials from the same manufacturer.

Only one finishing layer can be applied only to a high-quality plastered surface. Before puttying, the wall or ceiling must be primed and only after that the starting putty composition must be used. After drying, it is sanded, dust is removed and coated finishing layer.

The surface that will subsequently be painted must be brought to a perfectly flat and smooth state. If the wall is being finished for subsequent wallpapering, then it is enough to use starting putty.

Technology of puttying walls and ceilings

Puttying is not as complicated a process as it might seem at first glance. To perform work efficiently, you need a certain amount of experience, which can be acquired over time. In order to learn how to putty walls and ceilings yourself, you must follow the instructions that will be presented below.

Surface preparation and priming

Before you begin finishing the walls and ceiling with putty, you need to clean the surface of the old coating, greasy stains, dirt and dust. After this, the surface must be treated with a special primer, which will create good adhesion between the finishing material and the wall. Priming is done using a roller, making sure there are no gaps, and the wall is left to dry for at least 24 hours.

How to prepare putty correctly

To obtain high-quality finished putty, you must follow the instructions indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer of the finishing material. To prepare the solution you will need a clean plastic container appropriate volume. You will also need an electric drill with a special metal whisk for high-quality mixing of the dry mixture with water.

The putty solution is prepared in the following sequence:

Pour ¼ part into the container clean water room temperature.
Gradually pour in required amount dry mixture.
Using an electric mixer, mix the putty until it becomes a homogeneous mass.
Leave ready-made composition for 10 minutes to proof.
Mix the solution thoroughly again.
The consistency of the finished putty should be similar to thick sour cream. If the solution is thicker, it will adhere less well to the surface, and the liquid composition flows off the spatula and forms sagging on the surface being treated.

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“At one time you need to prepare the amount of solution that the master can use in about 40 minutes.”

Primary leveling of walls with putty

Before leveling the walls with putty, you need to check them using a rule that will allow you to identify bumps and depressions. Having identified significant defects in the form of protrusions, you can cut them down with an ax or a hammer drill with a chisel. Next, you need to prime the walls and only then prepare the putty composition.

First you need to make a small amount of putty in order to determine the speed of work. Using a narrow spatula, evenly apply the prepared solution onto a wider one, which is applied to the wall at an angle of approximately 60˚, and stretch it over the surface to be treated. The tool must be held firmly, but without excessive force. Over time, you can learn to control the pressure on the spatula.

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“Putting the walls should start from the corner of the room. A special angled spatula is used for this.”

After the walls are plastered, you need to let them dry for 2 days. After drying, the quality of the work will be visible and where additional finishing will be required. Irregularities are identified by the same rule. After that, defect elimination is carried out in two ways:

If there are depressions on the surface, they are filled with another layer of putty.
If there are bumps, they can be removed using special grater with abrasive and achieve a perfectly smooth surface.

After the surface has dried and defects have been eliminated, the walls are primed, and you can begin applying finishing putty or wallpapering.

Puttying the surface using beacons

How better foundation, the less finishing putty will be needed and, accordingly, the cheaper the repair will be. To obtain an ideal surface, special perforated profiles are used - “beacons”, which allow you to quickly and efficiently level the walls, which is perfect for beginners.

The metal profile is installed on the sand-cement mortar, focusing on a plumb line or building level and achieving the perfect vertical. The distance between the beacons should be 100−150 mm less than the length of the one used building regulations. After installing the beacons, you need to let the solution dry so that they do not get lost during subsequent finishing with putty.

Prepare putty (described above) and fill the gap between the beacons with it, and the maximum layer thickness does not matter. Relying on the profiles, pull from the bottom up, cutting off excess mortar and, if necessary, filling the depressions with it. The operation is performed several times until the desired result is obtained. Depending on the temperature, humidity in the room and the thickness of the layer, it sometimes takes more than a week for the putty to dry.

How to apply putty to the wall for the finishing layer

After the walls are prepared accordingly, you can proceed to finishing the surface with finishing putty. To do this, use compositions, dry or ready-made, which after processing acquire an even and ideal smooth surface. The finishing putty is applied in a thin layer, and the smoother the base, the less solution consumption will be. The technology of puttying and sanding is practically no different from working with starting mixtures.

We bring to your attention a video on how to apply it to the wall. finishing putty:

Drying, sanding and sanding putty walls

The final stage of finishing work using putty requires serious attention and consists of several stages. One of them is sanding, which is often skipped by inexperienced finishers, but first things first. So, after applying the finishing layer of putty, you need to let it dry well, since it is only after this that they become noticeable. the smallest defects, namely cracks that, when they occur, must be repaired.

Advice! To identify defects during puttying, it is necessary to use lighting devices with a powerful, bright lamp and aimed at a slight angle at the wall being treated.

After the putty has dried, you need to sand the surface to remove small bumps and sagging, and also to make the wall perfectly smooth. If you intend to wallpaper the wall, then it will be enough to sand it well, but in case of painting, additional sanding will be required. To bring the surface to a perfectly smooth state, you can use fine (almost zero) sandpaper or an abrasive mesh.

You need to start grinding from anyone top corner and, making circular movements, process the wall, highlighting it with powerful bright lighting device. It is undesirable to apply strong pressure on the grater so as not to damage the finishing layer.

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“Since sanding and sanding are very dirty and dusty stages of finishing work, it is worth using a respirator, safety glasses and gloves, and the room is well ventilated. Besides these protective measures required by safety instructions."

How to putty walls under wallpaper with your own hands

Before you stick the wallpaper, you need to create high-quality surface to decorative finishing did not peel off and lasted long enough. This can be achieved by applying putty with a starting solution. However, before this you need to clean the wall surface from dirt, dust, remove various defects(cracks, depressions and bumps) and prime.

The technology for puttingtying walls under wallpaper is practically no different from finishing surfaces for painting:

The solution is prepared in accordance with the instructions on the package.
The work is carried out with two spatulas - one with a width of 150 mm and the second with a width of at least 300 mm.
One section is processed, after the second, with an overlap of about 50 mm, etc.
After the wall is completely plastered, it is allowed to dry, and only then do they begin to level the wall by sanding.
Clean the surface from dust, reapply putty, and then repeat everything all over again until a perfectly flat surface is achieved.

When the wall is completely plastered, it is primed and covered with wallpaper. Application of a primer prevents the occurrence of fungus, mold and dampness, and also improves adhesion between different finishing materials. The video shows how to properly putty walls under wallpaper:

Do-it-yourself putty on walls for painting

Photo	Process description
	First of all, using a wide spatula, like a scraper, we remove minor defects from the wall in the form of tubercles and sagging.
	As a rule, we check the evenness of the wall.
	We pay special attention to the corners.
	If there are bumps, remove them using a hammer drill with a chisel.
	We prime the wall with a roller or spray.
	We apply cement-sand mortar in corners throughout the vertical.
	The rule is to tighten the solution.
	We get this almost perfect and even angle.
	For puttying we will use dry polymer putty and a ready-made paste solution.
	We glue corner-forming tape onto the putty, which will help avoid the formation of cracks.
	Remove excess putty from the perforations.
	We use putty to remove the minimal differences between the flight deck and the wall.
	The result should be such a perfectly even angle.
	Now we prepare a putty solution from the dry polymer mixture.
	Apply putty solution to the wall.
	Apply the putty in a thin layer.
	After the first layer has dried, use a spatula to scrape off the slightest bumps and sagging.
	We apply the second layer of putty by installing a spotlight on the side, which helps to identify surface defects.
	After the second layer has dried, use a grater and a portable lamp to sand the wall.
	After sanding and removing dust, apply glue for fiberglass with a spray bottle, adding gray pigment to it. By the way, on a gray surface when applying white putty, it will be clearly visible where the solution was applied in insufficient quantities.
	We glue fiberglass to the wall and smooth it with a spatula.
	Apply a thin layer of ready-made super-finish putty mixture onto the fiberglass.
	After the putty has dried, we sand the wall, prime it and apply paint. At this point, do-it-yourself wall puttying can be considered complete.