Do-it-yourself warm water floor made from pprs. Laying water heated floors: not easy, but effective

The heated floor system will be an excellent addition to the main heating system. Also, a warm floor can easily perform the functions of the main heating without the need for additional devices.

Often, owners decide to install heated floors on our own. And if to connect you need to have the skills to perform electrical work, then anyone can independently install a water heated floor. Read the instructions and get to work.


Preparatory work

First step

Dismantle old screed to the very foundation. Make sure that surface differences do not exceed 1 cm.


Second step

Place a layer of waterproofing material on a thoroughly cleaned surface.


Third step

Attach damper tape around the perimeter of the room. If your system consists of several circuits, the tape must also be laid along the line between these circuits.


Fourth step

Thermal insulation material, as well as the insulation procedure, is selected individually in accordance with the conditions of a particular situation.

So, if the system is used as a supplement to the main heating, it will be enough to lay foil polyethylene.


In most situations, as thermal insulation material foam or other suitable material is used.

Also available for sale are insulation materials designed specifically for installation in combination with underfloor heating pipes. Their structure already contains channels for laying pipes.

Fifth step

Lay reinforcing mesh over the thermal insulation. It will help increase the strength of the screed with which you fill the pipes.


In this case, the system pipes can be attached directly to the mesh, eliminating the need to use special clips and strips. In this case, ordinary plastic ties can be used for fastening.



You need to perform an individual calculation and determine the optimal pipe laying parameters for each individual room.

The easiest way to do the calculation is with help - this will give you the opportunity to save time and effort.

It is quite difficult to calculate the required power for each individual circuit solely using formulas. Such a calculation requires taking into account many parameters. In this case, the slightest mistake can lead to extremely unfavorable consequences.


To calculate the system you need to know the following parameters:


The listed parameters will allow you to calculate the optimal length of the pipes to be laid, as well as the appropriate spacing for their placement to ensure the required level of heat transfer.

You must also choose a suitable pipe laying route. Remember: as water passes through the pipes, it gradually loses heat. That's why distribution must be carried out taking into account a number of important nuances, namely:

  • It is recommended to start laying pipes from the less warm (outer) walls of the room;
  • if the pipe is not introduced into the room from the outside wall, then the part of the pipe from the point of entry to the wall must be insulated;
  • in order to gradually reduce the heating intensity from the outer walls of the room to the inner walls, a “snake” installation option is used;
  • In order to ensure uniform heating of the space in rooms that do not have external walls (wardrobes, bathrooms, etc.), the spiral installation method should be used. In this case, the spiral should develop from the edge of the room to its middle.

The most commonly used pitch for laying underfloor heating pipes is 300 mm. In places with increased heat losses, the pipe spacing can be reduced to 150 mm.


It is desirable that the resistance of the pipes in the circuits connected to the common collector be the same. To do this, you need to divide especially large contours into several smaller contours. Particularly large in this case include circuits whose pipe length exceeds 100 m.

Also, experts strongly do not recommend heating several rooms with one circuit. Attic floors, glazed verandas, balconies, etc. the rooms must be heated by a separate system circuit. Otherwise, the heating efficiency will be significantly reduced.

Installation guide for underfloor heating system

Proceed with installation of the system. The work is carried out in several stages.

First stage - collector


The collector is installed in a collector box specially designed for this purpose. Typically the thickness of such a box is 120 mm. Select the dimensions in accordance with the dimensions of the collector frame and taking into account the dimensions of various types of additions such as drain sensors, pressure sensors, etc.


Arrange the collector group so that there is a gap underneath it sufficient to bend the pipes.

Install the manifold cabinet. Do this so that the lengths of pipes from each heated room and system circuit are approximately the same.


Most often, manifold cabinets are simply mounted into the walls - the 120 mm thickness allows this to be done. The collector box must be installed above the level of the floor heating system.

It is important to remember: create different kinds of niches in load-bearing walls It is strictly not recommended, and in most situations it is even strictly prohibited.

The assembly of the manifold cabinet is carried out in accordance with the included instructions, so you will not have any problems or difficulties at this stage.


Second stage - heating boiler

First of all, choose the appropriate power. The equipment must be able to withstand incoming loads normally and have a certain power reserve. The calculation is extremely simple: you add up the power of all underfloor heating systems and add a 15 percent margin.


The coolant in the system under consideration is provided by a pump. The design of modern boilers includes a suitable pump initially. Usually its power is sufficient to ensure normal functioning of the system in rooms up to 120-150 m2.

If the dimensions of the room exceed the given values, you will have to install additional pump. In such situations, pumps are installed in remote manifold cabinets.


Directly at the points where the coolant enters and exits the boiler, it is necessary to install shut-off valves. With these devices, you can turn off heating equipment when the need arises, for example, for repairs or preventative maintenance.

Most often, home craftsmen give preference - they are the easiest to install and perform very well when working in conjunction with a heated floor system. To install and connect the equipment, simply follow the manufacturer's instructions.

Prices for the range of heating boilers

Heating boilers

Third stage - pipes

Pipe laying is carried out in accordance with a previously prepared diagram. To fasten elements, profiles with holes for placing screws are usually used.

You can also attach the pipes to the mesh using plastic ties– this has already been mentioned earlier.


When attaching the pipes, make sure that they are not pinched too tightly - it is better when the loop is loose.

Try to make bends as neat as possible, while observing the recommendations for the minimum permissible radius. In the case of polyethylene pipes, this radius is usually 5 pipe diameters.


If you overreact polyethylene pipe too much, a whitish stripe forms on its bend. This indicates the occurrence of a crease. It is prohibited to use such pipes - a breakthrough will very quickly appear at the break point.

Connect the system pipes to the manifold using a fitting or a Eurocone system.

After completing the installation of the system, be sure to check. To check, fill in water, apply a pressure of about 5 bar and leave the heated floor in this condition for a day. If after 24 hours no noticeable expansions or leaks are noted, you can begin installing the screed.

The fourth stage - screed


When pouring, the pipes must be supplied operating pressure. After pouring, the screed should be left to dry for a month. Only after the screed has fully gained strength can you proceed to laying the finishing coating.

When forming a concrete screed, you need to take into account a number of important features, related to the nature of the distribution of thermal energy in the thickness of the fill and the finishing coating used.

If tiles are to be laid, the thickness of the screed should be about 30-50 mm. Or you can reduce the distance between the pipes to 100-150 mm. Otherwise, the heat will be distributed completely unevenly.

When laying linoleum, laminate panels, etc., the thickness of the screed should be even smaller. To strengthen the fill in such a situation, it is necessary to use an additional reinforcing mesh laid on top of the pipes.


Prices for various types of screeds and self-leveling floors

Screeds and self-leveling floors

Thus, laying the underfloor heating system can be done on your own without any problems. You just need to follow the instructions given and take a responsible approach to carrying out all activities.


Good luck!

Video - Make a heated floor with your own hands

Water heated floor is worthy replacement ordinary radiator heating. The costs of installing it, compared to other types of heated floors, for example, electric ones, are somewhat higher, but these means are fully justified during operation. About all the pros and cons you can read on the page “Choosing a heated floor”, on the same page we will go directly to its installation, which consists of several stages:

Installation of a manifold cabinet

We determine the location of the collector and install a special collector cabinet for it, the approximate dimensions of which are 60x40x12. Inside the manifold cabinet, the heating pipes will be connected to the rest of the heating supply of the house. Also inside it will be installed elements that regulate the water supply, etc.
To install a manifold cabinet, you need to mark its dimensions on the wall and add 1-1.5 cm of clearance on all sides, then cut

grinder with a circle for concrete along the marked slot lines. This is a slightly dusty procedure, but the edges of the niche under the collector box will be neater; then take a hammer drill, preferably a more powerful one, and hollow out the niche itself into which the cabinet is installed. If you don’t have a grinder and a hammer drill, then take protective gloves, glasses, a chisel, a hammer and the niche is hollowed out using these tools and “such and such a mother”!!!

Assembling the manifold cabinet

So, the manifold cabinet is installed, we insert a pipe into it that provides supply hot water from the boiler and the return - this is the pipe into which our water returns, supplied by the first pipe, which gave up heat to the screed and cooled. Then it enters the boiler again, heats up and passes again into the first pipe supplying hot water (supply) using circulation pump which ensures uninterrupted water supply. Shut-off valves must be installed on the supply and return.

If necessary, by closing both valves, we will disconnect our room from the general heating system of the house or apartment in the event of unexpected damage to the water heated floor, its repair, or simply for the purpose of saving. A compression fitting is used to connect the metal valve to plastic pipe. Next, we install the collector - this is a shiny tube, similar to an incomprehensible wind instrument, with several side outlets. The collector also has a main entrance and exit. The main inlet is connected to the valve, and a tee is placed at the outlet, to which a drain valve is connected on one side, and an automatic air vent on the other, through which air bubbles trapped in the heating system are removed. In case of unexpected repairs
you can drain the water through the drain tap. The pipes (circuits) of our heated floor, connected by compression fittings, will be connected to the side outlets of the collector.
You can also connect to the collector water system WARM SKIRTINTH

Preparing the premises


In the room where installation is planned DIY water heated floor, the area is marked taking into account the thermal expansion of the screed when heated. If the subfloor is not level, it should be leveled cement mortar recesses, having previously primed it with a primer for mineral surfaces, or make a preliminary screed of the base, since the height differences in the area per coil should not exceed 0.5-0.7 cm. Waterproofing is carried out on the floor that has a soil base.

Thermal insulation

In order to reduce heat loss to zero, it is necessary to use polystyrene foam, foil polystyrene foam or penoplex as a substrate for pipes. With the help of these materials, the water-heated floor pipes will not warm up the subfloor and the heat will rapidly rise, warming up our room. Before thermal insulation, we first lay a vapor barrier, that is, a plastic film that will protect the insulation from moisture. The film is laid out with an overlap of 10-15 cm and the joints are glued with tape. We lay a damper tape along the walls, which should protrude 2-3 cm above the projected floor height. The damper tape is a strip of foamed polymer, 0.5 cm thick and 12-18 cm wide, which compensates for the thermal expansion of the screed. Now we lay the thermal insulation. When the ceiling is cold or when the lower room is not heated (for example, a basement), the recommended layer of thermal insulation is at least 5 cm. For the floors between floors, 2 cm is enough. The recommended density of the material is greater than 25 kg per 1 m3. It is very convenient for these purposes to use foil-coated aluminum foil) slab polystyrene with a thickness of 3 cm, since its surface has special grooves for fastening pipes with a diameter of 16, 17, 18 cm. Its lower surface has a relief that helps smooth out unevenness and increases sound insulation.


Pipe laying

It is better to use pipes made of cross-linked high-density polyethylene (PE-X) or metal plastic.

If you are using profile thermal insulation boards, then you just need to fix the pipes in special grooves by just pressing them. But if you are using a different type of insulation, then a great option is to lay reinforced mesh with a wire cross-section of 3 mm and cell dimensions of 10×10 cm, which, in addition to strengthening the screed, will do one more useful thing - you can tie the pipes of our heated floor to it with wires or fastening clamps, but not very tightly, since when heated the pipes can be deformed from for different thermal expansion of materials (the pipe itself and the wire). You can also buy special clips or fastening tapes that secure the pipes directly to the thermal insulation layer. The pipes are fastened in 1 meter increments. The schemes according to which pipes are laid are varied and popularly used different names: snakes, double snakes, snails, zigzags, spirals with an offset center, etc., you can choose any one that is more convenient for you, but I will focus on the two most common methods of laying pipes for water heated floor with your own hands.
1 laying of pipes for a warm water floor in the form of a snake.
This method demonstrates laying pipes next to each other in the form of a snake; it is also called parallel. It is well suited for small and medium-sized rooms and it is better to lay it on the side of windows or walls facing the outside of the house, since the highest temperature will be at the pipe inlet.
2 Spiral pipe laying DIY water heated floor(snail-shaped)
This method is best used in places with high heat consumption or in rooms with a large m2 area. The great advantage of this method is that when one pipe cools, the other compensates for its heating, due to the fact that the supply and return pipes (supply and return) run parallel to each other. The pitch of laying pipes in a spiral way is from 10 to 30 cm. That is, a distance of 30 cm is established over the main area of ​​the room, and in places of large heat loss ( entrance doors, windows) the laying step is reduced to 15 cm. When pipes pass near the walls, then minimum distance the distance between them should not exceed 8 cm.

Connection

After you have laid the pipes in the way that you prefer and fixed them using any of the above methods, one end of the pipe is connected to the supply manifold, and the other to the return manifold. If the room is large, then several circuits (such loops) are made and the collectors are selected accordingly the right amount inputs (outputs). It is advisable that each loop consist of a single piece of pipe, because additional connections increase the risk of leaks. It is also necessary to make expansion joint if the length of your room is more than 7-8 meters. This seam is necessary to compensate for thermal expansion and can be made from the same damper tape that we have already used before. Expansion joints must separate each circuit, unless of course there is only one. In the case when temperature expansion joints pass through underfloor heating pipes (supply or return), those pipes must first be covered with a protective corrugation 40-50 cm long. If you forgot to do this when laying the pipes, this can be done before laying expansion joint, cutting the corrugation crosswise on one side and putting it with the cut down on the pipe in the place where the expansion joint will pass.

Checking the water heated floor system yourself


Each circuit must be filled in turn with water through its manifold so that the air is completely removed from it. For this purpose, flow meters and control valves are opened on each circuit.

Automatic air vents must be completely closed during system inspection. The air must be vented through the drain valves.

If you are mounting DIY water heated floor, using metal-plastic pipes, the system must be checked with cold water, with a pressure of 6 bar in 1 day. If the supplied inlet pressure is equal to the outlet pressure, then everything is fine and you did everything correctly.

PE-X pipes (polyethylene) are tested in a slightly different way. The system is loaded with pressure 2 times greater than its operating indicator. The pressure in the pipes begins to decrease. After 30 minutes it is restored, and then the procedure is repeated 2 more times.

90 minutes after the last procedure, the system is left alone for a day. If during this period the pressure in the system does not drop by more than 1.5 bar, and the pipes do not leak, then the test was successful.

The system is then tested for thermal stability. Warm floors are heated to +85° for 30 minutes, while the tightness of the tubes and connections is checked, especially the collet connection.

If necessary, they should be tightened. To relieve stress, the system must be warmed up. After the pipes have cooled, a concrete screed is poured, but more on that later, let’s imagine for now that our DIY water heated floor ready and we need to regulate the room temperature.

Adjusting the temperature of the water heated floor


There are two common options for this:
1) the simplest and most common option is to regulate the hot water supply using valves at the collector outlets; the lower the supply, the lower the temperature in the room and vice versa. To begin with, the room is usually warmed up, and then the supply of hot water is reduced and a certain temperature is maintained.
2) using automation specially designed for water heated floors.
The automation contains two blocks, the first is an electric valve installed in front of the collector and its essence is to open and close the hot water supply.
It controls the valve servomotor, and the thermostat may also have an additional sensor. The second block contains electronic thermostat, mounted on the inside of the wall,
built into the screed. You give the thermostat a temperature setting and it maintains it by acting on an electric valve based on the readings of its sensors. It's simple! Very convenient thing!!!

DIY screed for water heated floors

After the water heated floor system, installed with your own hands, has passed all the tests, we proceed to pouring the screed. Her minimum height should be at least 3 cm, and the maximum - no more than 7 cm. When using a thermal insulation layer, the screed layer must be at least 5 cm. The recommended thickness of the screed layer above the level of the pipes is no more than 3 cm. Screed for water heated floors is a very important a stage no less important than the assembly itself DIY water heated floor. Many people do not attach importance to this, but in vain, since the quality of the screed will directly depend appearance and durability of the heated floor covering, including the finishing one. For example, if you buy a ready-made cement mixture from a low-quality manufacturer or do it incorrectly with your own hands, then within a short time after pouring the screed it will begin to deform, crack and sag due to temperature effects, due to which the top decorative layer, such as tiles, will also will fail ahead of time.
For such things as water heated floors, the screed must be resistant to deformation under temperature influences and not crack, and also have high thermal conductivity in order to maximize the transfer of heat produced by the water heated floor pipes. In order for you to make just such a screed for yourself, an article has been prepared for you that describes all kinds of delicious recipes cement-sand mortars specifically for underfloor heating screed.

Buy a stamp for concrete
At the final stage of the final decorative coating of the screed, you can use a more economical and less trivial option than ceramic tile, namely, apply a thin layer to the prepared surface of the screed cement mixture(0.6 - 10mm) and using concrete stamps, emboss or print a specific texture of your choice. You will save significantly on tiles and get durable, reliable coverage with good thermal conductivity and heat dissipation.Read more about this on the page Thin-layer decorative concrete.

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Articles

Do-it-yourself water heated floor in a private house

There is no need to talk about the comfort of using heated floors; this type of heating is very popular in private homes, as it is effective and has high efficiency. Despite the fact that this type of work is not much more difficult than others related to arranging maximum convenience and comfort of one’s own home, few know how to make a heated floor with their own hands.

Let's consider the theoretical and practical questions, Related independent calculation and arrangement of water floor heating in small spaces residential or office type.

Preparatory work and calculation of materials

Such a responsible job as installing a heated floor with your own hands should begin with the preparation of materials and planning. Strictly speaking, an accurate calculation can only be made by specialists who have information about the level of heat leakage in a given room. But for individual needs they often use rough calculations that meet the stated requirements.

First you need to draw a plan for the placement of pipes. The clearest and most visual diagram will be a diagram drawn on paper in a checkered pattern, the warm floor on which can be calculated based on the square footage of the room. Each cell will correspond to a pitch - the distance between the pipes.

For zone temperate climate:

  • If the house and windows are well insulated, the distance between adjacent turns of the pipe can be 15-20 cm;
  • If the walls are not insulated, 10-15 cm.
  • In spacious rooms, where some of the walls are cold and some are warm, a variable step is taken: near the cold walls the distance between adjacent turns of pipes is small, and as you approach warm walls- it is increased.

What flooring is suitable for heated floors?

A big mistake is made by those who plan to lay parquet or thick wooden flooring on a warm floor. Wood is a poor conductor of heat and will prevent the room from heating up. The efficiency of such heating may be even lower than that of radiator heating, and heating costs may be too high.

The ideal covering for a heated floor is stone, ceramic or porcelain tiles. Once heated, it will keep warm perfectly, and this is the best option for the kitchen or bathroom. Children love to play in rooms where the floor is warm, and walking barefoot there is more pleasant than on wooden parquet.

A slightly worse flooring option, but more suitable for a guest room or bedroom, is linoleum and laminate. These materials transmit heat well and will not reduce the efficiency of water heating. In this case, the laminate should be chosen minimum thickness, and linoleum - without an insulating substrate.

When heated, many synthetic materials can emit harmful fumes. Therefore, floor coverings with chemical components must have a manufacturer’s mark indicating the possibility of their use in residential premises on heated floors.

Base for heated floors

If we are talking about a house with concrete floors, then the most affordable and generally accepted option is a water-heated concrete screed. The same method is used for the first (ground) floors of private cottages, if the base of the floor is on a sand cushion, which is located directly on the ground.

In houses with wooden floors, this option is not applicable. Wooden beams the floors simply will not withstand the enormous weight of the concrete screed, no matter how thin it is. In this case, a lightweight version of heated floors is used, which will be discussed in a separate section.

Installing a heated floor with your own hands begins with preparing the base. The base for creating a warm floor must be flat, without protrusions and depressions. The maximum permissible difference is 5 mm. If the depth of surface defects reaches 1-2 cm, then you will have to pour and level a thin layer of granite screenings (fine crushed stone) with a grain size of up to 5 mm. You will have to lay a film on top of the leveling layer and, when laying the thermal insulation, walk on wooden shields. Otherwise, the leveling layer itself will become a source of unevenness.

Laying schemes for water heated floors

The most common layouts for laying water floors are snail and spiral. The snail evenly heats the entire floor area. But with a spiral design, it is possible to provide a greater level of heating in the coldest zone of the room. To do this, the first branches of the pipe through which hot water is supplied are laid there. Based on the finished drawing, the exact length of the pipe is determined.

For heated floors it is used only whole piece pipes! If the room area is very large, several heating circuits are planned. The length of the pipe of each circuit should not exceed 100 m. Otherwise, the pressure required for the normal coolant flow rate will be too high. In area this corresponds to 15 sq.m.

It is best to make a water floor with your own hands from a metal-plastic pipe with a diameter of 16 mm. It bends easily with a fairly small radius, and it is much more convenient to work with it than with a cross-linked polyethylene pipe. It is not advisable to use a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm. A larger diameter will require an increase in the thickness of the concrete, and this has a bad effect on the efficiency of the heating system.

Typically pipe consumption per 1 sq.m. area is:

  • 10 m at 10 cm increments;
  • 6.75 m at 15 cm pitch.

Selection of thermal insulation and fasteners for water heated floors

To prevent heat from escaping downwards, a layer of dense foam is placed on the base. The density of the insulation is selected to be at least 25, and better yet, 35 kg/cub.m. Lighter polystyrene foam will simply collapse under the weight of the concrete layer.

Insulation and heat reflector

Optimal thickness insulation - 5 cm. When laying on the ground or if increased protection from the cold is necessary, when the level below is an unheated room, the thickness of the thermal insulation can be increased to 10 cm. To reduce heat losses- it is recommended to lay a heat-reflecting screen made of metallized film on top of the insulation. It could be:

  • Penofol (metalized polyethylene foam);
  • Reflective foam screen glued behind radiators;
  • Regular aluminum food foil.

The metallized layer is quickly destroyed by the aggressive action of concrete, so the screen itself also needs protection. This protection serves polyethylene film, which is used for greenhouses and greenhouse farming. The film thickness should be 75-100 microns.

In addition, it provides the necessary moisture for the maturing concrete screed throughout the entire period of its hardening. The pieces of film must be overlapped, and the joint must be sealed with tape.

Fastening connections for water heating pipes

Pipe fasteners are installed on the thermal insulation. Its purpose is to secure adjacent branches of the pipe and position it along the floor in strict accordance with the preliminary plan. The fastener holds the pipe until the concrete screed reaches the desired degree of hardness. The use of fasteners facilitates floor installation and guarantees correct placement pipes in the thickness of the concrete pad.

Fasteners can be special metal strips, metal welded mesh, plastic staples that secure the pipe to the foam base.

  1. Metal strips are used when the thickness of the concrete pad is increased. They slightly raise the pipe relative to the heat insulator, due to which it is closer to the upper surface of the concrete pad. The pipe simply snaps into the shaped recesses of the strips.
  2. Metal grid not only secures the pipe, but also reinforces the layer of concrete pad. The pipe is tied to the mesh with pieces of wire or plastic clamps. Fastener consumption is 2 pcs. per linear meter. Additional fasteners can be used in places where there are curves.
  3. Plastic brackets are installed manually. They pin the pipe to the polystyrene foam as it is laid. Do-it-yourself semi-industrial heated floors are made using a special stapler. But its purchase is justified only with intensive professional use.

In recent years, manufacturers of underfloor heating systems have begun to offer another very convenient solution. We are talking about special sheets of dense polystyrene foam with a profiled surface. Typically, the surface of such sheets consists of intersections of grooves or rows of protruding elements, between which heating pipes are easily laid.

The surface of the sheets is smooth, extruded, all pores are closed and no additional waterproofing film is required. Having a special thermal cutter, you can cut grooves in polystyrene foam yourself. But to carry out this work you need at least minimal experience.

Metal-plastic pipes are supplied in coils. When laying, the coil rolls out along the pipe placement path. Do not pull the pipe from a lying coil, as this will cause it to twist and may lead to delamination. inner layers.

Selecting a recipe, preparing and pouring concrete

Pipes can only be poured with concrete after they have been completely laid, connected to the collectors and filled with water under a pressure of 4 bar. Before filling, it is necessary to maintain the pipe under this pressure for a couple of days. If a leak is discovered, it is repaired immediately. If the heating system itself has not yet been installed, instead of water, air is pumped into the pipes using a compressor and the pressure is fixed with ball valves.

Immediately after injection, the pressure may drop slightly due to straightening of the pipes. During pouring and hardening of concrete, the pressure is monitored using a connected pressure gauge.

To compensate for thermal expansion, we attach a damper tape along all walls. The thermal expansion of the concrete pad is 0.5 mm per linear meter, with an increase in temperature of 40 degrees. If the heating is only 20 degrees, the expansion will accordingly be half as much. We multiply the expansion by the length of the longest section of the concrete floor and compare the resulting value with the thickness of the damper tape.

For ordinary apartments As a rule, it is enough to lay the tape only along the walls and at the door threshold. In addition, the damper tape also plays the role of thermal insulation of the walls from the heated floor. This method eliminates cold bridges that cause unnecessary heat loss.

Additionally, in some cases expansion stitches are made:

  • if the length of any side of the room is more than 8 meters;
  • the width and length of the room differ by more than twice;
  • floor area exceeds 30 sq.m.;
  • the shape of the room has several bends.

For extended heated floors, an expansion joint with a damper tape is installed every 10 m. To prevent the movement of concrete pads in these places from breaking the pipe, a rigid plastic corrugation (preferable) or pipe is placed on it larger diameter. The penetration of the protective pipe into the concrete pads is at least 0.5 m on each side.

If a cluster occurs according to the layout warm pipes in one place (for example, near the collector), then a heat insulating sleeve must be put on part of the pipes. This will help avoid local overheating and retain heat for the desired areas of the floor.

How to make a water heated floor: concreting

If concrete for pouring is not brought in, but is prepared on site, then the following components will be required:

  • cement grade 300 or 400 - 1 part by weight;
  • washed river sand - 1.9 parts per hour;
  • crushed stone 5-20 mm in size - 3.7 w.p.

This is a composition of heavy concrete. Its weight reaches 2.5 tons per 1 cubic meter. finished material.

Many people prefer to avoid sand in concrete for underfloor heating. This is due to its poor thermal conductivity. Therefore, in practice, cement-gravel mixtures are also used. Its composition:

  • granite crushed stone 5-20 mm - 2 buckets;
  • cement - 1 bucket;
  • fine granite screenings up to 5 mm - 4 buckets;
  • water - 7 l (you can add another 1 l if the solution is very thick).

Granite conducts heat well, and such concrete has a much lower thermal resistance. It is also recommended to introduce reinforcing fiber into the composition, which is small plastic fibers.

Any self-leveling floor must contain a plasticizer. The specific amount depends on the specific brand and purpose of this drug. The plasticizer should not be just any plasticizer, but specifically for heated floors!

If the pipe was attached to strips or brackets, a reinforcing mesh is laid on top of it. The height of the concrete screed is selected from 5 to 10 cm. In this case, it is necessary to provide at least 3 cm of concrete above the pipe. A smaller layer is fraught with cracking. And a concrete pad that is too thick increases heat transfer losses.

With the right choice of concrete and normal temperature, it begins to set within 4 hours. To maintain normal humidity, it should be covered with a waterproof film, and when the surface dries, water it with water. After just 12 hours, hardened concrete can support the weight of a person. But its full ripening occurs only after 28 days. All this time you need to take care of humidity and maintain high pressure in the laid pipes. Only after specified period a first thermal test of this floor can be carried out.

Both during the first test and subsequently, it is impossible to quickly heat the water-heated floor to a high temperature!

Flooring

Ready concrete base You can glue tiles and other floor coverings. In this case, glue intended for heated floors is used. If the tile falls on an expansion joint, then one part of it must be glued, and the second must be placed on silicone. Silicone adhesive absorbs thermal movements of the base, and the tile will not crack from overstress.

Lightweight heated floors for wooden floors

As mentioned earlier, for wooden floors a light heated floor without a concrete pad is installed. In this case, the sequence of work may differ slightly depending on the condition of the old floor and the design of the ceiling.

To prevent heat from escaping downwards, insulation is placed under the pipes. It can be placed between the floor joists, and then it is better to use mineral wool, or it can be laid on an old durable subfloor - here you will need polystyrene foam with a density of 25-35 kg/cub.m. To prevent condensation from forming, a vapor barrier membrane is placed under the mineral wool. The first subfloor is placed on top of the joists.

Just as for a concrete floor, it is advisable to lay a heat-reflecting screen made of foil or foam foam on the insulation. All joints and seams must be sealed with tape.

The logs are laid directly on the polystyrene foam, to which the subfloor boards are nailed. There should be gaps of about 2 cm between the boards for laying the pipe. Similar gaps must be provided at the ends of the subfloor boards. Otherwise, you will have to choose transverse grooves for the pipe, and this can lead to breakage of the boards.

To ensure that heat is evenly distributed across the floor, the pipe is placed not just in grooves, but in special metal gutters designed for this purpose. The metal transfers heat over its entire surface and evenly heats the final finish. Recommendations for its choice have already been given above - it can be a laminate with permission to work with heating or hard polymer coating. Thick parquet and parquet board Least suitable for heated floors.

Compared to concrete heated floors, lightweight construction is much faster and costs significantly less. Another advantage is the ability to repair water pipes in the event of an accident. Problems with tubes in concrete floor can only be eliminated by replacing it completely.

The main disadvantage of a wooden heated floor is the significantly smaller thermal power.

Power the heated floor from heating apartment buildings is possible only with the permission of the heat energy supplier. All recommendations remain in force, although we personally recommend installing a heat-resistant water filter at the pipe inlet.

Bottom line

Properly equipped heat in own home- this is another step towards comfortable and convenient living conditions for the whole family. But, even if you are not able to complete these works and are forced to invite craftsmen, the knowledge gained will allow you to accept the most Active participation in this process.

What is a water heated floor? This is a capital liquid heating system, in which the air in the room is heated through the use of a floor structure with a system of pipes through which the coolant circulates. The heated floor system is connected to a local (gas boiler) or central system heating.

Water floor system heating can be used as the main heating of the house (an independent source of heating) or as an additional one. Depending on the design and heating method, there are different types underfloor heating: water and electric (cable, rod, film, infrared).

DIY water heated floor

Water heated floor is a durable and economical system heating, but its installation is associated with significant difficulties and costs. Therefore, installation of underfloor heating systems is entrusted to professionals. For those who have decided to make a water heated floor with their own hands, we will tell you what stages this process consists of and pay attention to the main subtleties of design and installation.

Water heated floor - advantages and disadvantages

Pros:

  • effective heat redistribution, ensuring uniform heating of the entire room;
  • ensuring natural air circulation;
  • compatibility of heated floors with any type of floor covering (provided that it conducts heat well: tiles, laminate, natural stone);
  • the ability to install an autonomous system (individual heating) or connect to the central heating main;
  • reduction in heating costs by 20-40% (compared to radiator);
  • independence from power supply (and power outages);
  • the ability to regulate the temperature in individual rooms and at any time of the day;
  • minimal costs for self-installation;
  • the appearance of the room is improved due to the absence of radiators and visible pipes of the heating system;

Minuses:

  • inertia of the system. The heating time of the room is 4-6 hours (depending on the volume, area);
  • design complexity in the case of using underfloor heating as the only source of room heating;
  • high installation cost;
  • difficult to regulate temperature regime in case of connection to the central heating main;
  • reducing the height of the room by raising the floor by 100-120 mm;
  • the use of floor coverings such as carpet, carpet or carpet is excluded;
  • the possibility of leakage (in an apartment - flooding of neighbors below, in a private house - basement);
  • low maintainability of the pipe system;

Water heated floor - DIY installation

Step-by-step instructions for installing water floor heating include four sequential steps:

  1. Develop it yourself, download a ready-made standard one or order an individual project for a warm water floor. At this stage, it is recommended to involve a specialist to eliminate errors.
  2. Select equipment and building materials.
  3. Install the underfloor heating system correctly.
  4. Check and launch the water heated floor for the first time.
  5. Finishing, laying flooring (tiles, laminate, linoleum).

Stage 1 - designing a heated floor

Before you begin drawing up a project, you need to make sure that there are no unavoidable obstacles to installing the system indoors. These may include:

  • room height. The thickness of the water-heated floor (installed system) is 100-120 mm. This results in the floor being raised to the appropriate height;
  • door installation location. Due to the installation of the system, the floor level rises. It is necessary to maintain the height of the doorway at 2200 mm ( standard door and installation gaps) or evaluate the possibility of increasing the doorway or estimate how much it will cost to make a door to order;
  • window orientation. Windows located to the north or northwest, or oriented to the windy side, or having big size, can lead to the fact that the system power will need to be increased to compensate for heat loss through the external circuit and ensure the desired room temperature;

    Note. If the calculated heat losses are more than 100 W/m2. It is not practical to install a water heating system.

  • load-bearing capacity of beams or floor slabs. Taking into account the weight of the concrete screed, the ability of the floor slabs or beams to support the weight of the water heated floor system should be assessed. Old floors are not yet a reason to abandon the system as a whole, but it is a reason to look into a water-based floor.

In view of the requirements listed above, water-heated floors in a private house have become more widespread than in apartments in high-rise buildings.

If there are no obstacles to the device, you can begin designing.

Calculation of water heated floor

Calculation in progress required quantity material depending on the parameters of the heated room and the technical characteristics of the component equipment and materials. The calculation of a warm water floor is made based on the following data:

  • floor area and room height;
  • material of walls and ceilings;
  • degree and type of thermal insulation;
  • type of flooring;
  • pipe material and diameter;
  • power of the heating element (boiler or central);
  • desired temperature regime (see table).

Limit (maximum) temperature of the surface of a heated floor for premises for various purposes

After this, a sketch (diagram, drawing) is made, reflecting the installation location of the main equipment, the method and step of pipe placement.

How to make a water heated floor correctly

Be sure to pay attention (device features):

  • install in furniture locations heating elements gender is not allowed, because this can cause them to overheat and dry out;
  • It is not recommended to exceed the length of the circuit over 90 m (the limit value depends on the cross-section of the pipe);

Maximum length of a water-heated floor circuit (loop) depending on the pipe diameter used

The deviation is explained by the fact that hydraulic resistance (slowing down the movement of the coolant) and thermal load are directly dependent on the diameter of the pipe.

Craftsmen consider the optimal length of the circuit to be 50-60 m (with a pipe cross-section of 20 mm). If necessary, it is advisable to install two circuits of the same length. This is due to the fact that as it moves through the pipes, the hot water releases some of the thermal energy, and the floor temperature decreases. The use of short circuits will ensure uniform heating of the floor over the entire area.

Note. The length of the circuit is calculated from the point of exit from the collector, not only at the point of entry into the heated room.

  • The pitch for laying underfloor heating pipes is 100-500 mm;

Note. When using a water heated floor as an additional (alternative) heating source, a pipe laying step of 300-500 mm is recommended. In the case of installation of a non-alternative (main) system, the pitch is reduced and amounts to 100-300 mm. If the laying step is exceeded, a “thermal zebra” effect appears, and the difference in the temperature of the floor surface is felt by the foot.

  • installing thermostats will avoid overheating and reduce the cost of operating the system.

Water heated floor in the apartment from central heating

Important. Installing a heated floor system in an apartment is associated with a number of difficulties. In particular, it is necessary to submit the project to the housing office or the society of co-owners, as well as the district heating network. After approval of the project, obtain a conclusion on the possibility of installing the system. Typically, installation is permitted only in new houses where there is a separate riser for pumping out hot water (used in case of a breakthrough).

Installation of heated floors in the bathroom is allowed by connecting through the outlet to the coil from the heated towel rail. A permit is not required to heat a small area.

Scheme of a warm water floor in a private house

Scheme of a warm water floor in an apartment

In addition to the installation diagram of the components, the type (type) of the underfloor heating system is selected at the design stage.

  1. Concrete system. Involves filling pipes with concrete (arrangement of screed);
  2. Laying system. Involves the use of wood or polystyrene flooring. In this case, there are no “wet” processes and the speed of work increases.

Stage 2 - components for heated floors

A water-heated floor is a complex system of pipes containing a coolant. Therefore, we list what is needed to install a heated floor (system components).

Boiler for warm water floor

The best and most common option in a private house (apartment) is to connect to gas boiler. If the apartment does not individual heating, you can connect to the main line central heating, but the autonomy of the project is lost.

It is also possible to use electric water floors. Their peculiarity is that the heating cable is laid inside the pipe, which guarantees uniform heating of the coolant (water, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol) along the entire length of the circuit. The undoubted advantage lies in the possibility of installation in apartment buildings(since they are not connected to the heating main, which means there is no risk of damage to the mounting unit). But there is also a significant drawback - the high cost of electricity, which is necessary to ensure the functioning (heating) of the system.

The design power of the boiler should be 15-20% higher than the total power of all floors in the room.

Circulation pump for heated floors

Necessary to ensure the movement of coolant in the system. The pump built into the boiler will not cope with the load if the area of ​​the house exceeds 100 square meters.

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Pipes for warm water floors

  • copper pipes according to experts are considered ideal option- durable, characterized by high heat transfer, but their cost will significantly increase the installation budget;
  • metal-plastic pipes leading in terms of price/quality ratio. Their composition eliminates the occurrence of corrosion and accumulation, which leaves the diameter of the pipe flow section unchanged. Besides, metal-plastic pipes They are light in weight, bend easily and have a high temperature limit.
  • polypropylene pipes They are attracted by the low price, but there is a high probability of buying a low-quality product.
  • PEX pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene are reliable, but require rigid fastening, because when heated, they straighten. Users recommend reducing the mounting step of the holders when using PEX pipes by 2-3 times.

The optimal cross-section is 16-20 mm. Pipe consumption per 1 sq.m. 5-6 m.p. (with a step of 200 mm).

Note. According to reviews, users advise using only well-known brands (Uponor, Rehau).

Insulation for warm water floors

The following materials can be used as thermal insulation:

  • foil polyethylene (with a minimum design thickness of the heated floor);
  • expanded polystyrene. Users recommend using ready-made thermal insulation mats having projections for laying pipes with a pitch of 50x50 mm;
  • mineral wool. Users speak poorly of the cotton wool in the case of the device concrete system due to the ability of mineral wool to absorb some of the moisture from the solution.

Advice. Thermal insulation layer (thickness of insulation for a heated floor) above the basement, in ground floor, on the ground floor in a private house, should be thicker. In addition, the higher the expected coolant temperature, the thicker the thermal insulation layer needs to be made.

Heat consumption meter

Installing a heat meter in an apartment is relevant when obtaining permission to install a water-heated floor in an apartment building.

Manifold cabinet

Installed for installation of adjusting elements and joining of circuit pipes with the heat supply main.

Reinforcing mesh for heated floors

Users have different opinions regarding the installation of reinforced stacks. In general, the reinforcement mesh will further strengthen the concrete screed after laying the pipe system.

Components for the screed device

  • concrete (cement, sand, water);
  • damper tape 100-150 mm wide;
  • fasteners for fixing pipes.

Stage 3 - installation of a warm water floor with your own hands

1. Installation of the manifold cabinet

Installation of the system begins with the installation of a manifold cabinet, the mandatory elements of which are (manifold unit): a manifold, a pump, an air vent valve and a drain outlet. The dimensions of the collector depend on its configuration. It is recommended to install the collector at an equal distance from all circuits. If it is impossible to follow this recommendation, near the longest of the contours.

Important. When installing the collector, free space is provided for bending pipes. In this case, it is not allowed to install pipes from above, only from below. This will ensure normal coolant movement. Installing a shut-off valve between the piping system and the collector will simplify maintenance of the system if necessary (prevention, draining, repair).

2. Preparing the base for heated floors

The surface is cleared of debris, differences in floor heights (slopes, elevations) are eliminated.

Thermal insulation material is laid on the prepared surface, reducing heat loss through the floor. Next, a waterproofing film is covered. Laying a damper tape eliminates the thermal expansion of the concrete screed.

Floors under water-heated floors must be leveled to ensure equal screed thickness (the key to uniform heat distribution over the surface)

3. Laying pipes for heated floors

Installation of water heated floor pipes can be performed using several methods (layout diagrams):

Snail

The pipes are laid around the perimeter of the room, tapering towards the center. It is necessary to lay pipes through a row to ensure the reverse flow of the coolant and more uniform heat transfer.

The method is used when, due to the complex configuration of the room, it is necessary to shift the center of the pipe system, as well as in rooms with an area of ​​more than 40 square meters.

Snake (loop)

In this case, the pipe from the heater runs along the outer wall, then returns back in a wave-like manner. The scheme is suitable for small spaces.

Meander (double snake or combined pattern)

The loops of the snake are arranged in parallel and allow you to organize the movement of warm and cooled coolant through the pipes. This method is good because it allows you to compensate for the cooling of the pipes.

Material prepared for the website www.moydomik.net

Advice. Craftsmen advise starting installation from the outer or colder walls of the room.

To perform the layout correctly, it is recommended that a beginner first apply markings to the floor surface. At the time of installation of heated floors in subsequent rooms, installation will be done “by eye”. For installation, only solid pipes or reliable connections are used.

Pipe laying begins by connecting one end to the supply manifold.

Advice. The pipe is laid at a distance of at least 70 mm. from the wall of the room. In this case, near the external walls the distance between the pipes can be reduced, because heat loss is higher here.

You can organize insulation near external walls by changing the order of the pipes, as shown in the diagram.

Layout of underfloor heating pipes for enhanced heating of external walls

After laying the pipe on the designated contour, it is fixed with a clamp. Alternatively, you can use dowels and tie the pipe to them using copper wire, or lay reinforcement mesh on the floor and tie the pipe to it, allowing for thermal expansion of the materials.

The work is simplified by a ribbed polystyrene substrate under a heated water floor, the use of which simultaneously allows for thermal insulation and laying pipes in even rows.

Polystyrene backing for underfloor heating

Installation of pipes under a heated floor on a substrate

4. Connecting the underfloor heating manifold

After laying the circuit, the free end of the pipe is connected to the return manifold.

5. Pressure testing of water heated floors

Pressure testing of pipes (hydraulic testing), this is the name given to the procedure for checking the quality of installation, because at this stage it is possible to make adjustments to the water heated floor heating system.

Pressure testing involves introducing water into the system under high pressure. The pressure recommended for testing exceeds the calculated operating pressure by 1.5-2 times (at least 0.6 MPa). In the first half hour of pressure testing, it is permissible to reduce the pressure by no more than 10%, in the next 2 - 15% of the initial value. The water temperature remains unchanged. The verification time is a day or more. If no violations are detected and the floor warms up evenly, you can continue work.

6. Screed for heated water floors

For screed can be used:

  • any ready mix, a mandatory characteristic of which is the ability to conduct heat well;
  • classic concrete (with cement grade of at least M 300) with the addition of a plasticizer (3-5%).

Schematic diagram of a screed for a warm water floor

Screed installation for a warm water floor

The height of the screed varies in the range of 3-7 mm. The solution is poured when the system is full (filled with coolant) with the pressure specified during pressure testing. The complete hardening time of concrete is 28 days. For the mixture, the hardening time is determined by the manufacturer.

Note. On the surface of a large area (more than 40 square meters), expansion joints are provided.

Stage 4 - first launch of water-heated floor

After the floor screed has completely hardened (dried), the system is ready to start. It will reach the specified parameters within 2-3 days.

Launching a water-heated floor

Stage 5 - finishing of the heated floor

The fully finished heated floor is covered finishing material. Today, the most popular flooring remains tile and laminate.

Water-based heated flooring under laminate has become widespread. However, the installation of laminate in this case is carried out with some nuances:

  • The quality of the laminate must be confirmed by a certificate. After all, when it is heated, harmful substances will be released into the room. Typically, laminate flooring is labeled “Warm wasser”;
  • the heat insulator does not fit under the laminate;
  • Ventilation of the laminate floor is required. To do this, a gap of 10-15 mm thick is left around the perimeter, which is then covered with a plinth;
  • Before laying, the laminate is placed in the room to set the floor temperature. In this case, packages with lamellas should be placed on the floor, and not stacked in one high stack.

As you can see, using laminate as a floor covering does not create any additional difficulties, but experts advise using a water-heated floor under the tiles. This is due to the fact that the laminate has low thermal conductivity (the thicker the lamella, the lower this indicator), and it also contains connectors, the fumes of which may not have the best effect on the health of the residents of the house.

How to make a water heated floor with your own hands - video

Water heated floors will last for a long time if you follow the recommendations for their use, which contain user reviews. The main requirements are as follows:

  • a gradual increase in temperature is necessary. You cannot run the system at “maximum” after a period of inactivity (until the floor has completely cooled). Users recommend a stepwise increase - by 4-5 °C per day;
  • the temperature of the incoming coolant should not exceed 45 °C;
  • It is not recommended to turn the system on/off frequently. This will not result in additional savings;
  • need to be provided optimal humidity in room. A balanced microclimate will have a beneficial effect on human health.

Conclusion

In addition to installing a warm water floor system inside the house, you can installation work on the street, for example, for installing a snow melting and anti-icing system (for heating a pedestrian path, entrance area, porch, staircase, parking lot, etc.).

Warm floors are useful in all respects: they create additional heating of rooms and increase the degree of comfort. It is not surprising that some owners of private houses have an irresistible desire to assemble this type of heating system themselves. Why overpay for a team of craftsmen when you can do everything yourself, right?

Are you also excited about the idea of ​​installing a heated floor, but you don’t fully understand the specifics of this system and don’t know all the intricacies of design? We will help you - in this material we will try to figure out under what conditions it is advisable to install a water heated floor with your own hands and what skills you need to have for this.

And to make the whole process of arrangement clearer for you, we have selected step by step photos on installation and detailed videos that explain the nuances of design, calculations and pipe laying.

There are several options for installing heated floors. The principle of operation of any of them is simple: under the finishing flooring placed, or, which act as heating devices.

Films are suitable for almost all rooms and, mainly, for. Let's take a closer look at the last type.

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