Installing glass blocks with your own hands. How to correctly install glass block structures in the interior with your own hands How to lay glass blocks in a brick wall
Before we start talking about the features and methods of installing glass blocks, it is necessary to mention that all structures made of glass blocks have mainly decorative, noise-proof, heat-proof and dust-proof functions and, in no case, can serve as walls and partitions, which will subsequently be assigned the function of load-bearing walls.
In other words, it is strictly forbidden to lay floor slabs between floors of the building, as well as floor beams, on walls made of glass blocks, since walls made of glass blocks are not intended for these purposes and cannot bear a large load.
Starting our conversation with this question, we would therefore like to immediately protect you from a serious mistake when installing glass blocks, which can lead to very unpleasant consequences, for example, to the partial or complete collapse of your building
Selection of tools and consumables
To successfully carry out the installation of glass blocks and manufacture structures from glass blocks of any size, complexity and variety without any difficulties, you will need a certain set of tools and specific consumables
Consumables:
| 1. Cement mortar or dry mortar for laying ceramic tiles or porcelain stoneware, preferably frost-resistant. 2. Reinforcing rods are intended for reinforcing glass block masonry; they perform an additional fastening function when installing glass block structures into masonry. The rods used for these purposes must be made of of stainless steel or, at a minimum, must be galvanized to avoid corrosion. |
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| 3. Laying crosses They play a big role in the process of controlling the thickness of the seams between glass blocks and are laid in each corner joint. After graduation installation work they remain inside the cement masonry and are rubbed down. | |
| 4. Grout for seams is intended for filling the seams between glass blocks and giving them the required color, since the color range of adhesive solutions on which glass blocks are laid is very limited and is not always suitable in color for the glass blocks that are laid on them. To grout the seams between glass blocks, it is recommended to use moisture-resistant grout, since it is not afraid of exposure to water and can be used both indoors and outdoors. | |
| 5. Silicone sealant in a special tube for attaching glass blocks. 6. Fastening dowels and anchors for fastening frame structures. |
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| 1. Level, the longer the partition, the longer the level should be used, this will increase the accuracy and quality of laying glass blocks. The length of levels produced by industry ranges from 40 centimeters to 2.5 meters. | |
| 2. A tool for measuring and marking, that is, a tape measure complete with a construction pencil with a thick lead, they come in different colors. | |
| 3. Marking cord for marking and drawing long straight lines, as well as for monitoring the evenness of glass blocks. This tool must be supplied with a special marking powder. | |
| 4. A grinder with a smooth abrasive disc designed for cutting off excess reinforcing rods. It is advisable to use an abrasive disc with a diameter of 115 mm, as it creates less vibration. | |
| 5. Rubber or foam float, it is intended for applying grout and rubbing the seams between glass blocks, as well as removing residual adhesive solution after laying glass blocks. | |
| 6. A trough for preparing the adhesive solution, preferably plastic and with a capacity of 5 buckets, that is, for one batch of solution. | |
| 7. A construction trowel is used to spread the adhesive solution onto the surface of the glass blocks being laid. 8. Sponges for preliminary cleaning of laid glass blocks from residual adhesive solution and grout. |
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| 9. Electric drill, used for drilling holes for reinforcing rods in cases where installation is carried out in conjunction with wooden elements base, as well as for stirring the adhesive solution during its preparation. | |
| 10. Mixer the right size, for mixing the adhesive solution. | |
| 12. Hammer, for drilling holes for reinforcing bars in concrete and brick foundations. | |
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12. Drills for drilling wood with a diameter of 8 - 10mm. 13. Special drill bits for hammer drills with a diameter of 8 - 10 mm. |
| 14. Rubber hammer, for correcting the laying of glass blocks if necessary. 15. Stepladder or portable scaffolding for ease of installation of the structure if it is quite high. |
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| 16. A jointing spatula of a size that fits a certain thickness of the seam for opening the seams between glass blocks. | |
| 17. Joint spatula, for removing adhesive mortar from seams and forming a groove for subsequent filling with grout. | |
| 18. Spatula, for removing contaminants and old materials from the surface of the base. | |
| 19. A gun for silicone sealant, it allows you to freely work with sealant with one hand. 20. A dry rag, preferably felt or flannelette, for final cleaning and polishing of glass blocks. |
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Methods for installing glass block structures
There are several methods for installing glass blocks. All of them differ from each other in many respects, such as: labor intensity, aesthetics, cost and speed of work performed on the manufacture of glass block structures.
Traditional method of laying glass blocks
is the cheapest, simplest and fastest way, but it is also not the most aesthetically pleasing, which is its most big drawback compared to other glass block installation methods.
When making a partition using the traditional method, you must first clean the surfaces of the base of the walls, floors and ceilings in the place where the partition will be made from chalk, dust, linoleum, parquet and other pollutants and old materials.
The next stage of work is to mark the future structure directly on the surface of the base around the perimeter using a level, a construction pencil and a marking cord. All necessary data and measurement results are applied directly to the surface of the base in those places where they were received or will be used at the time of laying the glass blocks.
After marking work, you need to start making glue on which the glass blocks will be laid.
At traditional method laying glass blocks, as a rule, either ordinary cement mortar is used (in the proportion of 1 bucket of cement + 3 buckets of fine-grained clean river sand+ 1 bucket clean water), either in best case scenario, ordinary dry mortar for laying tiles or for brickwork.
If you use ordinary cement mortar, it is recommended to add 200 grams of PVA glue to 5 buckets of the finished mortar while stirring it to increase the plasticity and adhesion of the glue.
When using ready-made building mixtures there is no need to do this, since they already contain all the necessary components, that is, adhesives and plasticizers.
When installing glass blocks, it is advisable to use adhesive solutions white in order to ensure that the color of the glass blocks themselves does not change, and also when using solutions based on white cement, in the future more aesthetic seams between the glass blocks will be obtained.
Thoroughly mix the adhesive solution you have chosen for installation in a special convenient, preferably plastic, container using an electric drill and a mixer of the required size until it reaches a creamy consistency and leave to “ripen” for about 3 - 5 minutes.
After “ripening,” the solution is thoroughly mixed again and it is ready for use.
A properly prepared adhesive solution should not be very thick, but it should not be allowed to run off the construction trowel when laying glass blocks.
It is not recommended to use a solution diluted after drying for laying glass blocks, since all the adhesives present in this solution are already crystallized, and the solution itself has lost its adhesive properties.
Laying a glass block partition begins with laying the first two reinforcing rods on the base of the floor.
The rods used to reinforce glass block masonry must be made of stainless steel or galvanized to avoid, firstly, the appearance of rust, which in the future may protrude from the outside of the masonry and ruin appearance the structure; secondly, when the reinforcing rods corrode, the structure weakens.
To lay the first reinforcing rods, you need to drill holes in the wall, into which the first two rods will then go. Holes must be drilled at the very junction of the wall and floor according to the dimensions of the internal walls prepared for laying glass blocks.
Reinforcing rods, with this manner of laying, will serve as embedded elements along the entire height of the structure being laid out.
In addition to the horizontal rods, you also need to lay vertical reinforcing rods after each laid glass block and also drill holes in the floor for adhesion to the base of the floor.
If we imagine this structure in its finished state without glass blocks, it will look like metal mesh made of steel rods in which glass blocks are laid.
After laying the first two rods, use a trowel to apply an adhesive solution to the surface of the base and spread it evenly over the entire surface intended for installation. Carefully lay the glass blocks, parallelly inserting vertical reinforcing rods into pre-prepared holes in the floor and filling the seams with adhesive solution between the glass blocks, controlling their thickness using special crosses that are placed in each corner joint between the glass blocks.
Special crosses ensure identical seams between the glass blocks and, upon completion of installation work, remain walled up in the masonry of glass blocks.
With the traditional method of laying glass blocks, only 3 - 4 rows of glass blocks are allowed to be laid in one go.
Since ordinary cement mortar dries relatively slowly, it is necessary to allow it to dry for at least 12 hours between each subsequent installation.
After completing each installation, it is necessary to remove all excess adhesive mortar from the surface of the glass blocks using a sponge or rag and free the interblock seams from excess mortar using a jointing spatula.
If this is not done in a timely manner, then after the solution dries you will get unsightly seams and dirty glass blocks that are very difficult to clean.
If you plan to grout the seams between the glass blocks with colored grout after installation, then you do not need to use a jointing spatula; you need to free the grout seams using a special spatula, creating recesses in them for filling with grout.
When the installation work is nearing completion and approximately 3-4 rows of glass blocks remain to be laid up to the ceiling, it is necessary to do the same work with the ceiling as with the floor, that is, drill holes in it according to certain sizes for laying the remaining final vertical reinforcing rods and continue laying glass blocks until installation is completed.
After the installation of the glass block partition has been completed, you must again clean or unstitch all newly made seams from the adhesive solution and first wipe the surface of the glass blocks from the adhesive solution.
Fully finished design must dry completely until the adhesive mixture is completely dry, with room temperature this period can be approximately 5 - 10 days.
To reduce the drying period, you can use special construction dryers or, as they are also called, construction hair dryers, which by increasing the temperature environment reduce drying time.
After final drying, it is necessary to grout the interblock seams; grout is usually used to match the color of the glass blocks themselves; this material is offered in a wide range of colors.
It is advisable to use moisture-resistant grout because it is not washed out by water and will last you much longer than regular grout, given that you will have to wipe your partition during cleaning to keep it clean.
The grout is applied to the surface of the glass block masonry using a foam float diagonally and rubbed into the previously prepared recesses of the seams until they are completely filled. After grouting all the seams, it is necessary to remove all excess grout from the surface of the structure with a damp sponge or rag.
After the partition has dried from wet cleaning, you need to bring its surface to an ideal condition by rubbing the surface of the glass blocks with a dry, clean cloth. This operation will ensure the final removal of small grout residues and give the glass blocks ideal shine and cleanliness.
Perhaps, after rubbing the partition with a dry cloth, you can say that your partition is ready for use.
Arched walls and partitions
When installing walls and partitions made of glass blocks that have rounded shapes, all stages of installation work are identical to those described in the section on traditional laying of glass blocks.
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The difference in installation in this case is that the reinforcing rods are bent in places where the partition is rounded according to its shape, that is, they duplicate the rounding of the wall.
In this case, suture crosses are placed in the masonry of glass blocks only inside the curve in order to maintain the thickness internal seams. Outside the wall’s curve, the seams automatically take on the same width, which depends only on the radius of the partition’s curve.
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There is no need to worry if you notice that the second half of the seam crosses, or rather their thickness, does not coincide with the thickness of the external seams between the glass blocks.
The outer part of the crosses regulates only the horizontal seams between the glass blocks. To make wall rounding fragments, it is recommended to use half-glass blocks of the same color, since, firstly, in the rounding places a larger number of vertical reinforcing rods will be used, which will give your partition additional strength, and secondly, due to the use of smaller glass blocks it will be possible reduce the discrepancy in the thickness of internal and external seams.
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Frame method of installing glass block partitions
This method of installing glass blocks is technologically more complex than the traditional one. It is also more expensive and, naturally, aesthetically more impressive than its traditional counterpart.
Another advantage of this method is that its application practically does not use a cement adhesive mixture, and the structure itself is much lighter.
Installation work begins with measuring the dimensions in the place where the glass block partition will be installed.
Based on the obtained dimensions and linear dimensions glass blocks used, a wooden frame is made from dry boards of the required size and thickness.
When making the frame, it is necessary to very accurately observe all the cells into which the glass blocks will then be inserted and fastened.
The discrepancy between the cell sizes and the sizes of the glass blocks used is allowed to be no more than 2 mm. The smaller the gap in the cells, the better the work on installing glass blocks will be done.
Main difficulty this method installation of glass blocks arises precisely during manufacturing frame system, since this process requires increased attention when carrying out measuring and computational work. The process of manufacturing the frame itself does not give the right to the slightest mistake, since this in the future will have a very negative impact on the appearance of the entire mounted structure. The frame is assembled by gluing or screwing using special hardware.
The frame is made only from sanded dry boards.
After making the frame, it must be painted in the color required by the design using thin-layer paint and, of course, dried until completely dry. The painted frame is installed in a pre-prepared place and, using special dowels or anchors, attached to the walls, ceiling and floor.
After making sure that the frame is installed level, correctly and securely secured with anchors to the walls, ceiling and floor, the installation of glass blocks begins.
Glass blocks are inserted into each prepared cell and thus fill the entire partition completely.
After assembling all the glass blocks into the cells, it is necessary to fix them using colorless silicone, applying it at the junction of the glass blocks and wooden frame to avoid glass blocks falling out of the frame.
Colorless silicone sealant is practically invisible on the surface of any color and does not spoil the appearance of the entire partition structure after drying.
The time for complete drying of the sealant is approximately 8 hours. After complete drying, the silicone resembles frozen transparent rubber.
After the silicone sealant has dried, the structure can be considered ready for use.
Where glass blocks meet plasterboard, regular putty should be used. Silicone caulk leaves marks on drywall when it dries.
Glass blocks are used not only for finishing buildings industrial type, they are used in modern interior, perform various decorative inserts or entire walls. The material is made from glass mass, it turns out transparent, which allows more light to pass into the room. The blocks are hollow inside, the glass thickness reaches 7 millimeters. Using glass blocks modern look can be created original interior, they are used to create columns, partitions, and make wall and ceiling inserts.
Characteristics of glass blocks
Glass blocks can have various colors and texture, they come in transparent or multi-colored, matte and decorative type, that is, with patterns. The material may have different shape, rectangular, square, triangular, glass blocks can also be end, corner or in the form of columns.
Thanks to glass material, the blocks are transparent, non-flammable, and have an aesthetic appearance. A vacuum is created inside the blocks, due to this the material is considered energy-saving, and it also performs thermal insulation functions. Glass block has good contact with water, so it can be used for finishing swimming pools and wet rooms.
Also, glass block has a high level of sound insulation, fire safety, the material is environmentally friendly, and is not picky in cleaning. If damage occurs to one block, there is no need to disassemble the entire surface; it is enough to replace an element or a separate section.
Glass blocks are resistant to low temperatures, also produced special material, which can withstand significant loads.
A surface made of such material does not require further finishing, for example, plastering, painting or wallpapering. To clean the blocks from contamination, they can be washed plain water or by various means for glass.
Methods for laying glass blocks
Let's look at how to lay glass blocks. The material can be laid in three methods. The first method is labor-intensive and resembles brickwork. First, the site of the proposed structure is cleaned of contamination, after which an adhesive mixture is prepared. To connect glass blocks to each other, you can use special compounds or adhesive mixtures, which are suitable for ceramics.
Then two rods made of steel are laid on the floor surface stainless steel type, they serve as a reinforcing material. Special holes are made in the wall where the ends of the rods are inserted. After this, holes are made in the floor and the rods are secured vertically. The blocks are laid according to the type of brick laying, the seams must be unstitched, and the material itself must be cleaned of mortar. The surface is left to dry for up to ten days, and then the seams are rubbed with a special compound to match the color of the blocks.
In the second method, laying is carried out using a solution; in order to ensure that the distance between the blocks is the same, special crosses are used. First, lay the first row using a level construction type and lighthouses, between the glass blocks there are crosses and rods that serve as reinforcing material. Using a spatula, spread the solution onto the surface of the laid row and the side part, then press the block against the crosses. Excess mortar is removed from all joints, and after drying, grouting is performed. On final stage, the surface of the blocks is washed with a sponge.
The third installation method uses a special frame, with solutions cement type do not use. First, a frame is made of wood or plastic, the cells of which correspond to the size of the glass block. The finished frame is secured on all sides with screws to all adjacent surfaces, that is, the floor and walls. A glass block is placed in each cell, and it is fixed using special rubber or sealant inserts. When using rubber gaskets, the blocks can be easily pulled out and swapped if necessary. The frame can have any shape, square, rectangular or in the form of steps.
The frame can be made not only from plastic or wood; aluminum or polyurethane are also used for its manufacture. soft form. Such walls will not have high sound insulation; they are used only as decorative elements.
What is the texture of glass blocks?
Glass blocks may differ in external signs. Their textured surface It can be smooth, embossed, light-scattering, that is, matte on the inside or outside, and light-directing, namely embossed on the inside.
In order to increase light permeability, the ends of the blocks can be covered with amalgam. The ends of Euro glass blocks are coated with white paint. Thus, after laying them, the solution will remain invisible. Also, sometimes a hole is made at the ends to fill the block with paint.
Advantages of glass blocks
- The material is durable and reliable, resistant to humidity, low temperature, and fire.
- The glass block has a high light transmission function, thanks to this, the room can be made visually spacious and bright.
- Using this material you can give your interior an original design.
- Glass blocks can have various sizes, shapes and colors, this allows you to combine the material and get an unusual surface.
- Thanks to the tightness, the internal space does not become dirty, and the external surface is easy to clean with a sponge.
- The material has high thermal and sound insulation, it is able to absorb noise, is fire resistant, environmentally friendly, resistant to humidity and sub-zero temperatures.
- The surface made of glass blocks does not require further finishing.
Glue method for laying glass blocks
- The block located at the edge is fixed on the guide horizontally.
- To connect vertical surfaces, special dividing strips are used.
- Before you start laying the second row, install the horizontal guide again and attach it to the wall.
- The glue can harden either quickly or over a long period, depending on its type.
- At the end, all joints are grouted with the required color, and then the blocks are washed from the solution that has fallen on them.
Laying glass blocks on cement mortar
- The solution must be spread not only on horizontal surfaces, but also on vertical walls.
- Using a building type level, measure the evenness of the installation.
- In order to strengthen the structure, reinforcement is performed with rods.
- After the solution has hardened, the seams are rubbed with the required color and the surface is washed away from dirt.
Basic rules for laying glass blocks
- The solution used when laying glass blocks should not contain large grains of sand, otherwise the product can be scratched.
- As soon as the solution dries a little, any dirt from it must be removed so that the surface has a beautiful appearance.
- If the material is smeared with grout, it must be removed wet before the stains dry. For this, acetic acid is used.
- When laying matte glass blocks, the protective film is removed after all joints have been grouted.
- The rod for reinforcement should only be galvanized or steel, its diameter reaches 6 millimeters. The rods are placed vertically and horizontally. Iron will quickly become unusable, that is, it will become covered with corrosion due to a thin layer of solution.
- Glass blocks can be laid in no more than three rows at a time so that the structure does not move or bend. You can knock down glass blocks using a rubber hammer.
- If installation is carried out external walls, then their area should not be more than 15 m2, otherwise the bottom row of blocks may burst from significant weight.
- Since glass blocks are used to make built-in surfaces, some kind of support must be located along their edges.
- When making a frame, the cells must correspond to the size of the glass block, the permissible deviation is 2 millimeters. The void at the top is filled with sealant or a rubber gasket is installed.
Using glass blocks you can get original surface, their installation does not require special knowledge; you can do it yourself. The material is easy to care for and has a number of advantages, different original decor in the interior.
Cement or frame?
We wrote about how to decorate your home with modern glass blocks in the article “”. This time we will talk about the features of installing blocks. How to make a wall or partition out of them? Which installation method is optimal in a particular case? Which important nuances What should you keep in mind when planning this work? Let's start with the planning and preparation stage. Before you start work, you need to be sure that the choice in favor of glass blocks was correct.
What should you know when planning to use glass blocks in your home?
1. It is not advisable to build a wall with doors from glass blocks. There may be an opening in a glass block wall, but doors should not be secured. Mount window systems You can't go into a glass block wall either.
2. Of course, a wall made of glass blocks cannot be load-bearing.
3. Glass blocks have excellent sound insulation. Do not be afraid that the glass block wall separating two rooms will serve only a decorative function.
4. Glass blocks are also a heat-saving material. They can be used to glaze large window openings - and the room will be warm (the same as with modern plastic double-glazed windows).
5. Glass blocks - unique material, which is both construction and finishing. This is where their special ease of use lies. I erected a wall and I don’t have to think about anything else: neither about putty, nor about painting, nor about cladding. This will save money, effort, and energy.
6. It is undesirable to create surfaces with an area of more than 15 square meters from glass blocks. m.
What do you need to know before starting work?
1. The surfaces to which the glass block wall or partition will be adjacent must be prepared (at the junction). Namely, to clear away old decoration, wash, let dry, prime.
2. Glass blocks are usually sold covered with a protective film. It is not recommended to remove the film before installation is complete to avoid damage to the surface of the blocks, scratches, stains from glue and cement, etc.
If the blocks were sold without film, you can protect them yourself - for example, by covering the front surfaces of the blocks with masking tape.
Methods for laying glass blocks
There are two main methods of installing glass blocks: cement and frame. The frame method creates very flimsy, not very reliable structures. Therefore, this method should be adopted only for the construction of small partitions in residential premises.
If there is a need for a large partition, glazing window openings and in creating glass walls in damp rooms - the choice should be made in favor of the “cement” method.
Installation of glass blocks on cement
For work, use cement or tile adhesive. The cement must be of high quality, homogeneous, without large grains of sand (they can scratch the glass if they get on the glass block). Tile adhesive is preferable.
In addition to cement or glue, you will need special spacer crosses and metal rods (section 4-6 mm).
Spacer crosses help to leave a fixed distance between the blocks, making the surface of the glass blocks smooth. In addition, crosses allow you to make the wall tougher. Metal rods are needed for reinforcement, that is, strengthening the glass block wall.
Having laid a row of glass blocks, apply a new layer of glue and lay a metal rod horizontally, after which a second row of blocks is laid. The rods can also be laid vertically if the area of the structure is large enough. Some experts recommend reinforcing not all rows, but only every third.
Spacer crosses are installed in the joints between glass blocks. The “hats” of the crosses remain outside. After the cement has completely dried, these protruding plates need to be chipped off. The crosses themselves remain inside the wall, making it stronger.
The building level should always be nearby. With its help, you should constantly monitor the evenness of horizontal and vertical rows.
It is not recommended to lay more than three horizontal rows of glass blocks at a time. They laid out an area three blocks high and paused. If glass blocks are installed with tile adhesive, work can be stopped for a couple of hours and then continued. If glass blocks are laid on cement, you will have to wait a day. Why is a pause necessary? If you go above three rows, at some point the structure may “float” or completely fall apart. Be sure to take breaks!
If the glass block structure is adjacent to other surfaces, then the “seam” between them should be no more than one centimeter.
By the way, about “seams” or joints. If the glass blocks were placed on cement, after it has completely dried, the seams can be grouted with tile grout desired color. But it’s even easier to buy colored cement/glue and lay glass blocks on it. In this case, the joints must be immediately made neat, removing excess cement, and then after drying no additional treatments will be required.
After laying all the glass blocks, the structure should dry well. This should take 10-15 days. And only after this time can you begin to grout the interblock joints.
Frame method of installing glass blocks
This method of installing glass blocks is suitable for creating small, lightweight structures - for example, semi-partitions for zoning rooms. Sound insulation qualities will be significantly lower than with the cement installation method. Strength indicators are also not comparable.
The advantage of this method is aesthetics (the blocks seem to be framed), cleanliness of the work and the possibility of replacing individual blocks.
The frame is made of wood (sanded boards). It is made to order - for example, in carpentry workshops. The frame is a structure with equal cells and resembles a lattice. The cells correspond to the size of the glass blocks.
The blocks are inserted into the cells and strengthened. To do this, use rubber gaskets or seals. silicone sealants. Sealants are used more often - this strengthens the structure, since the blocks are literally glued into the cells. However, there is a minus here: if the block is installed with a rubber gasket, it can be easily removed if necessary, in order, for example, to replace a cracked block. If it is glued with sealant, it will be more difficult to remove it without damaging the entire structure.
Before filling the lattice frame with glass blocks, it must be secured by attaching it with dowels or anchors to the main surfaces - the floor, load-bearing wall, ceiling.
If you want to give the frame a certain color, you need to paint it in advance, before filling it with glass blocks.
The work is quite easy, but it must be done carefully, using caution, remembering that glass is a fragile material.
Glass blocks are installed in the wall in a similar manner. You need to create a cell in the wall for a glass block and insert it, securing it with a rubber seal or sealant.
Manufacturers of glass blocks also produce ready-made modules for attaching blocks. A frame is assembled from modules. Moreover, it is assembled simultaneously with the installation of the blocks. The modules themselves are made not only of wood, but also of PVC.
Such modular systems To install glass blocks, you need to ask in the same stores that sell this material. Working with ready-made modules is quite simple - similar to assembling a construction kit. It must be remembered that the structure turns out to be very fragile: you cannot glass a window using this method, but you can separate the sofa from the bed.
Creating a round wall from glass blocks
Rounded walls can be built from cement. In this case, the reinforcing rods have to be bent to fit the shape of the future wall, which is not so easy. To facilitate the process, thinner metal rods are used than when constructing straight walls.
Spacer crosses are inserted between blocks only inside the rounding. On the outside, the seams remain the same, and their size depends on the radius of curvature. There is a discrepancy in the size of the seams inside and outside the rounding. This cannot be avoided if solid glass blocks are installed.
You can reduce the size of joints in a rounded wall use of “half” glass blocks. And the smaller the radius of curvature, the more desirable it is to use narrow blocks.
Some foreign manufacturers of glass blocks offer special systems for the construction of rounded walls. But this is still the same frame installation method, which is not suitable for creating a durable, strong, waterproof wall. But you can create a light round partition. Ask for such systems at stores that sell glass blocks.
Glass blocks, by analogy with bricks, are laid on a regular solution of sand and cement. However, we should not forget that this material is made of glass and must be handled carefully, even carefully. To avoid complications when laying glass blocks, it is better to adhere to simple recommendations that experts have developed over decades of practical work.
Protective film on the surface of glass blocks
Initially, glass blocks are covered with a transparent protective film.
It is necessary so that the glass surface is not damaged during transportation and installation. The film protects glass blocks from chips, small possible impacts and scratches. Particularly relevant protective film for glass blocks with a matte surface, where every defect will be noticeable.
Craftsmen who do not have sufficient experience often remove the protective film before installation, and thus make a mistake. Experts advise removing it after all the work is completely completed. Otherwise, glass blocks can be easily damaged.
This advice should not be ignored. What can happen with a small scratch? It would seem that there is nothing wrong. However, any scratch in itself is an unpleasant phenomenon, and in addition to this, over time, dirt in the form of tiny particles will accumulate in it and very quickly the glass blocks will lose their “marketable appearance.”
If the glass blocks do not have a protective film (and this happens quite often), you can seal their surface with ordinary tape. This will ensure that nothing unpleasant happens during the installation process.
Cement mortar for laying glass blocks
An ideal solution for laying glass blocks should not contain large grains of sand or foreign impurities.
Again, glass blocks are very easy to scratch when laying, and a solution that contains coarse sand is essentially an analogue of sandpaper.
If during work the solution gets on the front surface of the block, do not scrape it off with tools. There's no point in waiting for it to dry either. Best to wash it off warm water ordinary soft cloth.
Metal rods for laying glass blocks
Professionals advise
Always reinforce glass block construction.
Especially if the structure is supposed to be massive. For example, a wall. The best decision- special metal rods that can be purchased at almost any construction supermarket. The rods must be selected with a cross-section of five millimeters. And they are installed both horizontally and vertically.
Phased construction
Any massive glass block structure should be built in stages. It is recommended to lay no more than three rows per day. Otherwise, if this rule is not followed, the wall may turn out to be uneven, and in some cases, the lower blocks may even crack under the weight of the upper rows.
The fact is that, unlike, for example, brick glass blocks adheres worse to cement mortar. Therefore, the structure can “move” under its own weight.
Spacer crosses when laying glass blocks
Mounting crosses significantly speed up the laying of glass blocks
and ensure strictly the same distance between the blocks - a wall made of glass blocks will turn out perfectly smooth and neat. They are made of plastic, are inexpensive, and can be purchased at any hardware store.
Seams in glass block construction
Immediately after erecting a structure made of glass blocks (and most likely beforehand), you need to think about seams and joints. Regular gray seams from ordinary cement-sand mortar They don’t look very attractive, it’s best to purchase special grout for joints. The range of grouts for joints today is huge. There is a choice among manufacturers, color scheme and by price.
Grouts are sold in the form of dry mixtures. You just need to add a certain amount of water to the mixture (see instructions on the package) and mix the contents thoroughly.
But it’s even better to lay glass blocks on colored cement. It can be purchased at the same construction supermarkets. Such cement will cost a little more than ordinary cement, but the result is worth it. Or you can simply purchase special pigments that can be used to easily color a regular gray solution.
Wooden modules for glass blocks
Sometimes, in order not to bother with the solution and, in principle, the rather labor-intensive process of laying glass blocks, you can use special modules. They are something like a wooden lattice, each of the cells of which is designed for a glass block.
The process of “constructing” the structure is very simple. You need to insert glass blocks into the cells and secure everything with a gasket. The benefits are obvious - simplicity, convenience, perfect appearance. In addition, such a structure can be moved from place to place if the need arises.
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The purchase of decorative glass blocks is over; now you need to correctly lay the glass blocks. But the question arises: “How to lay glass blocks?” In this article we will tell you how to install glass blocks and what the cost of such installation is.
Features of laying glass blocks
Before proceeding with the direct installation of glass blocks, it is necessary to consider some features of working with them:
Glass blocks
1) Walls and partitions made of glass blocks cannot be installed as load-bearing supports, since glass structures perform only the following functions: decorative, heat and sound insulation and protection against dust.
2) The thickness of the glass block must be at least 7 cm, but not more than 10 cm.
3) The weight of the glass block varies from 2.4 to 4.3 kg.
Preparation for installation of glass blocks
- Before laying glass blocks, it is important not to forget to prepare everything necessary tools:
- Construction level for creating even rows of glass blocks,
- Tape measure,
- Pencil and cord for marking,
- Grinder for cutting unnecessary reinforcing rods,
- Foam rubber or rubber trowel for applying grout,
- Bucket for preparing glue for glass blocks,
- Construction trowel for laying out glue mortar,
- Sponges for cleaning already erected glass blocks,
- Electric drill for drilling slots for rods in wooden bases,
- Mixer for mixing the adhesive solution,
- Hammer for drilling in brick and concrete surfaces,
- Stepladder, if the glass block structure is high,
- Spatula for removing excess glue solution,
- Spatula for removing old material,
- Silicone sealant gun,
- Spatula for opening seams between glass blocks,
- Hammer for creating a smooth surface of blocks,
- Dry cloth for cleaning and finishing glass blocks.
Photo gallery of tools for laying glass blocks
5. Using a level, level the row of glass blocks.
6. Attached to wall structure and between the glass block rows there is a fixing profile made of metal or wood and the blocks are laid.
7. The glass block screen has been erected. Apply grout to the cracks (seams) between the block tiles.
Applying grout to a glass block structure
8. Remove excess grout using a sponge, cleaning the surfaces of the glass blocks.
This is the general course of work on laying glass blocks, but there are three types of installation of glass blocks. Read more about this in the article on our website “Do-it-yourself glass blocks.”
Laying glass blocks VIDEO can also be viewed here: http://www.w-interior.ru/article.php?id=ykladka_stekloblokov
Laying glass blocks - cost of work
The cost of laying glass blocks is from 2500 rubles. up to 17 thousand rubles. per sq. m.
The cost of installation varies depending on the number of blocks, their sizes, colors, countries of origin, and, of course, the complexity of the installation itself.
You can also buy crosses for glass blocks at different price. It depends on their specific sizes and manufacturing countries:
2, 3 or 5 mm – 22 rub. (Italy)
Installation of spacer crosses
8 mm − 25 rub. (Italy)
5 mm – 9 rub. (Czech Republic)
10 mm – 20 rub. (Czech Republic)
From 2 to 5 mm – about 16 rubles. (Russia)
10 mm – 14 rub. (Russia)
Crosses made in China can be purchased from 12 rubles. etc.