Growing citrus fruits at home. How to properly care for citrus indoor plants
Citrus fruits are grown on an industrial scale, in greenhouses and in private households. All citrus, in particular lemon, lime, tangerine and even orange or grapefruit, you can grow up in an apartment. Citrus fruits are cultigens, as they have been growing in cultivation for a long time. Grown from seed, they do not require grafting, but formation is required for them, otherwise citrus fruits will not bloom.
Features of growing Citrus fruits
In addition, they are important for the presence of mycorrhiza in citrus fruits, which is found in the mother soil in the roots of each citrus plant, since they grow in a community with microfungi living on their roots. If the microfungi die, the plant itself will die. Therefore, you should not use pesticides or a too bright solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) to water the soil when controlling pests. For the same reason, it is prohibited to use fresh manure or apply large doses of mineral fertilizers when fertilizing.
Seeds, taken from a ripe fruit, should be heated in warm water, this will speed up germination. The seeds are buried in the soil 2-3 times the diameter of the seed, that is, slightly deeper than the nail. Sometimes several plants grow from one seed at once, since citrus fruits are characterized by polyembryony. You should leave only one plant, cutting off the rest with scissors. Citrus seeds have good germination. Plants grown from seed usually bloom and begin to bear fruit in the 10th year, but the quality of the fruit may be low.
You will get much better results if you first grow a seedling from a grapefruit or pomelo seed, and then graft any other citrus plant onto it early stage, when the seedling has a stem as thick as a match (2–3 years after emergence). The grafted plant develops faster, since the root system of pomelo and grapefruit is more powerful than that of other citrus fruits. This significantly accelerates the plant’s entry into fruiting. In this case, you will need a cutting of a fruit-bearing plant (you can contact a greenhouse, nursery or friends). From a grafted cutting, the plant blooms and begins to bear fruit in the 2nd–3rd year.
Grafting for growing citrus fruits
Vaccination The easiest way to do it is by budding, that is, with an eye. A more mature plant (that is, 5–6 years old) will be required for grafting. Budding begins when the bark is well separated from the wood (in April or August). A well-ripened 1–2-year-old branch is cut from a fruiting citrus plant. Cut off the leaves, leaving only the stalk, and place it in a glass of water. On the stem of a plant grown from seeds, at a height of 5–6 cm, the place chosen for grafting is thoroughly cleaned; there should be no dirt on it. You can wipe this area with vodka, as well as your hands and the knife blade. The operation must be sterile - this is the key to success.
Using a sharp knife (placed perpendicular to the stem of the seedling), make a T-shaped cut in the bark, without touching the thin green layer of cambium between the bark and the wood. The length of the cut is about 2 cm, the width is about 1/2 cm. On the prepared grafting cutting, two transverse cuts are made in the bark 1 cm below and above the eye. Then they carefully cut off the bud, grabbing the bark along with the cambium (this is literally a jewelry job, so first practice on the branches of any plants brought from the street). While spreading the top edges of the T-shaped cut on the seedling, insert a bud (pay attention to where it is at the top) and push it deep into the cut. Smooth the cut well with your fingers, pressing the bud firmly against the cambium. Tie the top and bottom so that the bud remains outside. The easiest way is to use a narrow strip of ordinary polymer film for tying, which must be wiped with vodka.
After about 20 days, the kidney should take root, that is, begin to grow. When the cutting from the bud grows 5–10 cm, the seedling on which the bud was grafted must be cut obliquely, 2–3 mm above the base of the new shoot from the graft. After this, you need to immediately cover the cut with liquid garden varnish, or black metal varnish - bitumen, or natural oil paint(it is now sold only in art stores and is expensive). The shoot that has developed from the grafted bud is tied to a peg stuck into the soil.
The cuttings can not only be grafted, but also rooted. Rooting It goes slowly, it takes 1.5–2 months for lemon and up to 6 months for orange and tangerine! The grafted plant will begin bearing fruit in the 3rd year. In any case, cuttings should be taken from the ends of the shoots of a healthy fruit-bearing tree, which have just finished growing this season, have become slightly lignified, but still retain flexibility. The bark on them should still be green. The length of the cutting is 8–10 cm, it should have 3–4 leaves. Cut the cuttings with a very sharp and thin knife or scalpel. The lower cut is made oblique (directly under the leaf or bud), and the upper cut is made straight (1–1.5 cm above the bud). Cutting citrus fruits indoors it is possible throughout the year, but it is better to do this in April - May, then they will have time to build up a good root system.
Substrate for planting cuttings when grafting citrus fruits
Best substrate for planting cuttings is a mixture of sphagnum moss and steamed sand in equal volumes. The cuttings are planted immediately in pots, at the bottom of which shards or coarse sand (2–3 cm) are placed. Then pour a layer of nutritious soil (5–6 cm), and on top - a substrate of moss and sand (3–4 cm).
After planting the cuttings sprayed and placed in a plastic bag, into which you need to take several exhalations (to increase the concentration of carbon dioxide), and then tie the bag. The pots are placed in a bright but not sunny place. Every morning and evening, the bags are untied, the cuttings are sprayed with warm (about 25 ° C) water, air is exhaled into them and tied again. The procedure can be simplified by covering the cuttings with jars and exhaling air into them or using small pieces of dry ice as a source of carbon dioxide. The air temperature should be between 20–25 °C. After rooting, the top bud will begin to grow, then the jar or bag can be removed, but daily spraying must be continued throughout the life of the plant.
Soil at citrus growing
Soil for citrus fruits must be rough, but at the same time fertile, with a neutral reaction and necessarily containing a large set of microelements. The introduction of fresh organic matter or large amounts of mineral fertilizers can destroy the cohabitants of citrus fruits (microfungi) and thereby harm the plants. Be sure to place broken shards at the bottom of the pot to allow excess water to drain. And of course, you need to put the pots on pallets. A coarse or heavy mixture consists of turf soil, coarse river sand and leaf humus, taken in a ratio of 1: 1: 1 by volume. Nowadays they are sold in gardening stores or the corresponding departments of large supermarkets. ready-made mixtures for the most various plants, including for citrus fruits X.
They don't like citrus fruits movements. Plants may drop leaves even when the pot is rotated. Therefore, before starting citrus fruits, determine a place for them in the apartment. It should be light, but do not place plants on the windowsill (except in cases where there are double-glazed windows). The fact is that citrus fruits come from the subtropics, that is, they love warmth and moisture, so on the windowsill near the glass in winter time they will feel cold. In hot summer time, without turning the pot, they should be moved away from the window deeper into the room to avoid direct sunlight, which can cause sunburn. In case of burns or freezing, plants should be helped by spraying them with a solution of Ecoberin or Epin-extra.
Air temperature when growing citrus fruits
Citrus fruits love warmth, so room temperature should not fall below 24–25 °C. In addition, all citrus fruits need moist air, for this reason they should not be placed close to heating radiators. In addition, in winter, when the apartments are too dry, constant spraying of the leaves with water is required. For this, water obtained from melted snow or ice and heated to 22–25 ° C is best suited. You cannot use water directly from the tap; it must be passed through a filter or at least allowed to sit for a couple of days and be sure to be heated before spraying.
Watering citrus fruits
For glaze, which must be combined with fertilizing, you should also use filtered or settled water, always warm (temperature not lower than 20–22 °C). How much water should you pour, what fertilizers should you add to it, and how much of them are needed? All these questions will definitely arise in your mind. Despite their love of moist air, citrus trees die from excessive watering. They should be watered moderately, especially in winter. Their leathery leaves evaporate little moisture, and therefore excess water leads to rotting of the roots. It is better to loosen the top layer of soil more often. With infrequent watering, the water should moisten the entire lump of earth. An indicator of sufficient watering is the appearance of water in the pan. I advise you to combine watering with weak mineral supplements(1 teaspoon per 5 liters of water).
Fertilizer for growing citrus fruits
Top dressing must contain all the necessary composition of macro- and microelements. It is best to use Uniflorom-bud. It contains all the macro- and microelements that plants need, including extremely useful substances for citrus fruits - magnesium, selenium, cobalt and molybdenum. In addition, all minerals are enclosed in an organic shell, that is, they are in chelated form, and therefore are absorbed by plants immediately. The fertilizer itself is liquid and easy to dose. Pour the cap into 5 liters of water, stir and let it settle. The finished solution can be stored indefinitely.
You can also use the powder fraction fertilizers AVA. You need to pour 1 teaspoon of powder into 3 liters of water and let it brew for at least 3 days. Then you need to stir, let the sediment settle and water the plants. This fertilizer does not dissolve in water (so you don’t have to boil it for the sake of the experiment), but due to Brownian motion, ions of mineral elements contained in the fertilizer gradually penetrate into the water, and in very small doses. You will add water to the sludge for most of the year and continue to use it. This is a very profitable fertilizer, despite its apparent high cost. It contains all the necessary nutrients, but at the same time there are no harmful impurities in it, which are necessarily present in other mineral fertilizers, although this is not written about anywhere. All plants, especially citrus fruits, require organic silicon. It is contained in the preparations Energen and Siliplant. You only need to add 1-2 drops per 1 liter of solution for watering and fertilizing.
When citrus fruits bloom, especially lemons, there is a fabulous aroma in the apartment! They bloom for a long time, usually in inflorescences collected in a brush. The flowers are pink or white, appearing on the current growth of 3-year-old lateral horizontal shoots. During flowering, plants can be pollinated manually by applying pollen from the stamens to the pistil with a soft (squirrel) brush.
Citrus leaves emit phytoncides, so the smell of these plants is constantly diffused in the apartment. It is very gentle and also has a detrimental effect on pathogenic microbes in the room. At temperatures of 18–20 °C the fruits do not ripen. To ripen one fruit, 15 leaves are needed; if there are not enough of them, the lemon will shed excess fruits. Therefore, store the leaves, each of them is very valuable for the plant. Shedding of leaves can occur as a result of increased dryness or air temperature (more than 24–25 ° C). If the plant does not bloom for too long, you can “hurry it up” by reducing watering and slightly pulling the horizontal 3-year-old branch with a tight constriction.
Citrus leaves are glossy, shiny, leathery, and well adapted to retain moisture. Although these plants are called evergreens, each leaf lives for only 3 years. Dead leaves turn yellow and fall off, so don't be alarmed when this happens..
Transplanting citrus fruits
The transplant is being done every 3–5 years along with the entire clod of earth. Plants should not be planted or replanted in pots that are too spacious. If you give the plants the opportunity to grow freely, then they either stretch upward with one trunk without side branches, which means there will be no fruiting, or they take the form of a very dense bush.
You definitely need to study citrus crown formation. In a young tree that has reached 15–20 cm in height, in February, before the next growth begins, the top is cut off, leaving 5–6 well-developed buds below. These buds will soon germinate and give rise to lateral branches of the 1st order. Of these, 3–4 shoots are left, growing in different directions.
As soon as these branches finish growing, their ends are trimmed, leaving 3-4 buds on each. Second-order shoots will appear from them, the ends of which are also cut off after their growth has finished, again leaving 3-4 buds. Fruit branches of the 3rd order begin to grow from them. They do the same with them.
From the moment the branches of the 4th order appear, the formation of the crown ends and the fruiting period begins. Until the formation of skeletal branches of the 4th order is completed, fruiting should not be allowed, since the premature appearance of buds on the branches of the 3rd order will stop the further growth of the tree, therefore, before the growth of the branches of the 4th order ends, the first buds on the branches of the 3rd order should be removed .
WITH fruit tree at the end of February - beginning of March, you need to trim strong branches by 10-15 cm, cut out vegetative branches. In addition, it is necessary to cut out fattening sprouts, remove dry branches and branches that bear fruit (they are usually without leaves). Branches that grow too strongly upward are bent to a horizontal position (while they are growing upward, they will not bear fruit). In addition, branches growing inside the crown that are not capable of bearing fruit are cut out.
All citrus fruits are very sensitive to frost, during which the roots may dry out. In winter, it is best to keep plants in a bright room with a temperature of 7–8 °C. Suitable for this glazed loggia or balcony. At the same time, it is necessary to constantly monitor the temperature so as not to overcool the trees, otherwise they will die (citrus crops do not tolerate temperatures below 5 ° C). Watering at this time is done very moderately.
In case of frost, plants should be brought indoors, maintaining their orientation towards the sun (that is, without turning), and keep them near balcony door. If you do not have loggias or balconies, keep citrus fruits on the window sills close to the glass, but in severe frosts, move them deeper into the room. Transfer the lemons carefully without turning the plants. In a dark room, citrus fruits, especially lemons, can lose their leaves, so lighting is needed in winter.
Pests when growing citrus fruits
Citrus pests, like any other plants in the apartment, - whitefly, aphids, scale insects, and less often thrips. The enemy of citrus fruits exclusively is the mealybug.
Spraying with the absolutely safe and also useful for both people and plants with the Healthy Garden preparation (4 grains per 1 liter of water) helps against aphids. The scale will have to be scraped off onto the litter and destroyed. Whiteflies and thrips are sucking insects. To combat them, you need to use the absorbable biological product Fitoverm, which is allowed to be used in an apartment (1 ml per 3 liters of water). It is especially effective when combined with Healthy Garden.
Whitefly- This is a disgusting insect, similar to a very small moth, which sits on the underside of the leaf and is therefore hardly noticeable. It multiplies as quickly as an aphid, but at the same time, a sooty fungus (black smearing coating) immediately settles on its sweetish secretions. The whitefly should be destroyed, the plaque should be washed off the leaves with soapy water, and then the leaves should be sprayed with Zircon (4 drops per glass of water).
Against scaleworm you need to use a pink solution of manganese the next time you water the plants. For preventive purposes, this is done with each watering and fertilizing, since potassium permanganate contains not only manganese, which has a detrimental effect on the mealybug, but also potassium, and all citrus fruits love potassium. Do not forget that too strong (dark pink) potassium permanganate solution can destroy microfungi living on the roots.
Recommendations:
Growing citrus fruits at home is very promising type of home business, ornamental plants are always in high demand. You can sell plants on the market, through flower shops.
Profitability:
- Initial costs: from 500 rubles
- Monthly income: from several thousand rubles
The fruits of indoor citrus fruits (Citrus), unlike homemade pineapples, are quite suitable for consumption. Moreover, they have a milder taste than the fruits of wild trees, and therefore are more preferable for allergy sufferers. Citrus fruits are grown at home also because of their unique aroma, which fills the room with freshness. If you don’t yet have citrus at home, we recommend paying attention to this plant. Caring for citrus fruits at home is not difficult, and the result will exceed all your expectations. Well oh beneficial properties citrus fruits needless to say - this is an excellent plant for the prevention of colds.
Family: Rutaceous, light-loving, moderate moisture.
Many representatives of the Citrus genus are grown indoors.
They grow quickly, bloom beautifully, and the fruits in most cases are tasty and healthy. These are mainly low-growing evergreen trees with a spreading crown and large emerald leaves with a glossy surface. When you hold them up to the light you can see a large number of small glands rich in essential oil. Each leaf lives for about 3 years and the growth and development of the entire plant and the ripening of fruits directly depend on their condition.
Very elegant leaves of Fortunella, or nagami kumquat(Fortunella margarita) variety "Variegata" - green-white or green-yellow. Citrus flowers are small, white or cream, arranged singly, in pairs or in small clusters. They may not be visible behind the abundant foliage, but the characteristic delicate and quite intense aroma will draw your attention to the plant. The fruits of different types of citrus fruits are different. Everyone is familiar with ordinary bright yellow lemons with lumpy skin.
The largest and most delicious lemons from an indoor citrus plant "Ponderosa"(Citrus Limon Ponderosa), and the most productive - lemons Meyer(Citrus Limon Mejer).
The Buddha's Hand citron has very original fruits.
The earliest ripening and most prolific of the indoor citruses is the tangerine, or reticulate citrus (Citrus reticulate). The fruits of this indoor citrus tree are small, orange-red with easily peelable peel, juicy sweetish pulp and no seeds at all.
And the spherical yellow or red fruits of indoor orange (Citrus sinensis) with a dense peel and sweet and sour pulp ripen the longest (up to 9 months).
Caring for citrus fruits at home
In winter, citrus fruits are kept in a bright, well-ventilated room at a temperature of +4.+8 °C. Oranges are the most heat-loving citrus fruits; they require a higher temperature, within +13...+18 °C. In summer, it is better to take the plants outside and place them in the sun, in a place protected from drafts. When caring for citrus trees, watering should be moderate but regular; drying out the earthen clod is not allowed. At the same time, good drainage is necessary to avoid stagnation of water at the roots. During the heating season and on hot days, all these plants should be sprayed regularly. Forming a beautiful crown is not so much an aesthetic requirement as it is a necessity to speed up fruiting. Formative pruning and pinching are carried out throughout the year - after the appearance of 3-4 leaves, the growth point is pinched.
Caring for indoor citrus fruits during the period of active growth involves feeding once every two weeks, if possible alternating mineral fertilizers with organic ones. Transplantation is carried out using the transshipment method in the spring: young plants are replanted annually, at the age of 4-5 years - every other year, over five years - once every three years. A soil mixture of turf soil, compost and sand (1:1:1) is best suited for planting citrus fruits. The described plants reproduce well by seeds, which are sown immediately after they are removed from the fruit. The prevailing opinion that “wild animals” grow from seeds has not been confirmed. Simply, plants propagated by seed begin to bear fruit after about 8 years. Citrus obtained from cuttings enter the fruiting stage somewhat earlier. Cuttings are cut in March-April or at the end of June-in the first half of July, rooted in a mixture of peat and sand (1:1) for three weeks at a temperature of +25 °C.
Beneficial properties of indoor citrus trees
Citrus essential oils have a beneficial effect on nervous system: relieve mental stress, eliminate anxiety, help fight loss of strength and depressed mood, promote concentration and improve memory. They relieve spastic pain and restore impaired blood circulation. Their bactericidal effect in various inflammatory diseases of the respiratory system is also known. Citrus fruits and juice are rich in vitamins. And the plants themselves, especially during the time of flowering and fruiting, look very elegant and improve your mood.
The amazing greenhouse in the Gardens of Versailles, with over 1,000 plants growing in pots, is the world's most famous demonstration of growing citrus trees outdoors and indoors. But there's no need to be Louis XIV or have a similar area, citrus fruits can be harvested in normal home conditions.
Like the plants in the Gardens of Versailles, your orange, lemon or lime can be grown in a container, growing indoors during the cold winter months and outside in the spring and summer.
The most suitable option for growing indoors is dwarf variety, a plant that is grafted onto a rootstock, this prevents the tree from growing too tall. Many citrus trees can be grown as dwarf trees, including Meyer lemon, kaffir lime, and calamondin, which are adapted to grow indoors indoors.
Soon you'll be able to harvest your own oranges for jam, make a Meyer lemon dessert, or pick the leaves from kaffir limes to make Thai curry.
Purchase
Choose a plant that will immediately bloom and bear fruit; give preference to a two to three year old plant. dwarf tree. For beginners, calamondin is suitable, as it is highly resistant to indoor growing conditions. Buy plants only from reputable greenhouses to avoid purchasing plants with diseases.
Planting in a pot
For planting, you need a container with good drainage. Give preference to clay, ceramic or plastic pots, which are slightly larger in size than the root ball. Required drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. For better air circulation, place stones at the bottom of the pot.
Well-drained soil is very important for the plant. Use a slightly acidic (pH 6 - 7), clay soil mixture. It is best to use a soil mixture specifically formulated for citrus trees.
Accommodation
Most citrus trees require eight to twelve hours sunlight daily. When growing citrus fruits indoors, place them near a south-facing window, ensuring good air circulation. If necessary, install additional lighting using special lamps during the dark winter months.
The best temperature for dwarf citrus trees is 13-29°C, with an average temperature of 18°C considered ideal. Citrus fruits do not like sudden changes in temperature, so make sure the plants are protected from cool drafts and heaters. Do not place citrus fruits near entry doors, heaters, fireplaces or ovens.
With the arrival of spring, citrus trees can spend more time outside; they can only be brought indoors in case of cold weather. Once the threat of frost has passed, gradually acclimatize your citrus trees to outdoor conditions by first placing them outside in a sheltered location for a few days, then gradually moving them out into the sun. It is very important to do this slowly and deliberately to avoid burning the foliage and stressing the plant. Choose a sheltered location in the sun with good air flow. Suitable places for placement are veranda, balcony and terrace. Moving a citrus tree indoors for the winter is the same gradual, but reverse process, which lasts until the threat of the first frost arises.
Care
Regular watering is key. Addition decorative mulch(such as pebbles or moss), helps reduce evaporation and retain moisture in the root zone. But remember that the soil mixture should be in contact with the dry side of the mulch, especially in winter, to avoid fungal infection and root rot. To measure humidity levels, use special water meters (these can be purchased at greenhouses and garden centers). Citrus fruits love moist air. Place the plant near a humidifier or regularly spray the tree leaves with water, and then the foliage will shine even in dry winter air.
In the spring and summer, feed your citrus tree every three weeks with a high-nitrogen fertilizer formulated specifically for citrus trees. In winter and autumn, the frequency of feeding should be halved.
Citrus trees are vulnerable to scale infestation, spider mite, mealybugs and aphids. Inspect trees carefully to spot signs of infestation: curled, spotted or yellowed leaves, sticky spots, cobwebs between branches. Use non-toxic pest control products such as insecticidal soap or margosa seed oil.
The time from flowering to harvest depends on the variety of citrus tree. In general, most lemon and lime trees mature within six to nine months; orange trees take about a year to be ready for harvest. Citrus fruits only ripen on the tree, and once the fruit is ripe, many varieties of citrus can be picked from the tree over a period of weeks or even months. When the fruit has become the color characteristic of this variety, check it for ripeness by gently pressing the peel. If the fruit is slightly soft, it is ready to harvest.
Growing citrus crops indoors
I recently started growing citrus fruits. Or rather, attempts to grow a lemon from a seed have been made many times before. But the experiments ended unsuccessfully. A tree with huge thorns reached up to the ceiling, and categorically refused to bloom or bear fruit. I read in old “Homestead Farming” magazines that it is possible to grow lemons, oranges, and tangerines grafted from a varietal plant in an apartment. But I have never seen such a “miracle” among my friends or relatives.
I first saw a tangerine tree with fruits in a flower shop in the city of Tomsk while studying. I had a great desire to buy it as a gift for my wife, but what stopped me was the fact that it was winter, and I had to get 700 km home with a lot of transfers.
Only in 2012, in a flower shop in the city of Uyara, I bought a lemon and a tangerine with fruits for my wife for the holiday. But then it turned out, when I began to understand a little, that this lemon was not a lemon, but limonella Vulcan and the tangerine were not a tangerine at all, but a calamondin, with sour fruits. These citrus fruits came from Holland, and as I later learned, they inject plants with large amounts of hormones for better flowering and compact crown. This is why citrus plants from stores get very sick and most of them die after a short time.
Fortunately, our plants did not die, since this topic touched me, and I had some free time. The question arose almost a month later, why the beautiful, bright plants began to dry out, turn yellow, and lose leaves. And only then we began to study literature and the Internet. Although the study still had to be done before purchasing seedlings, it would have been much more less mistakes. In Holland and even in Europe, it is customary to give plants as gifts for the holidays, and then, when they fade, they are simply thrown away. So, if you want to try your fruits, buy unsightly grafted or rooted seedlings from familiar gardeners.
I learned a lot about citrus crops from the Internet. There is a huge amount of information on the World Wide Web, sometimes the most contradictory. But I was lucky, I accidentally came across a very good website dedicated to citrus fruits and other exotic plants, homecitrus.ru. And this warned me against further mistakes. And the most important thing is that I did not buy cheap seedlings on the Avito website - there were scammers who sent low-quality seedlings. But I almost ordered from them, but in time I read the reviews of deceived customers.
Ivan Vladimirovich Michurin himself said: “The variety decides the success of the business.” And I was lucky with the varieties, because I found those people who are passionate about an interesting business, have been breeding and selling seedlings for several years and have only positive reviews. They live in Krasnoyarsk, Bratsk, Maikop, Nizhny Novgorod, Sochi. Their seedlings withstood the slow delivery by Russian Post very well and have been delighting me and my family with delicious, exotic fruits for our area for several years now.
Everything happened like a growing lump. The more I learned about subtropical fruit plants, the more I wanted to try to grow overseas fruits: feijoa, figs, pomegranate, guava, acmena, muraya, myrrh, laurel. But, unfortunately, the four windows of the apartment are not unlimited, and the plants are getting taller and wider every year. Therefore, we had to stop with the assortment for now. And with the appearance of the first results of my labors, relatives, friends, and acquaintances began asking for seedlings.
I tried to graft, it started to work, but it also takes up a lot of space, so the question arose about a separate room for plants. There are plans to build a small winter garden adjacent to the house. After all, winter in Siberia is long, and I really want at least a little summer in my apartment. Sorry for the tautology, but in the summer you don’t even see summer in the village - there is a garden, a vegetable garden - there is no time to relax. After all, my main goal is to test varieties of apple trees, pears and plums for our area, test various agricultural practices on my site, and form different tree crowns. Only in winter there is free time for home fruit plants, when there is a snowstorm and blizzard outside.
I would like to warn novice gardeners about citrus crops. Lemons, oranges, and tangerines are not suitable as indoor plants. Their content contains many nuances and problems. The most difficult thing is to organize a good winter for them. If you are not ready to devote 10-15 minutes to plants every day, it is better to get less demanding plants. Only those who have studied them biological features and promptly fulfills the requirements for fertilizing, watering, pruning, replanting, they will delight you with tasty and aromatic fruits. Below are general recommendations for indoor citrus growing.
Kinds
Based on my personal 5-year experience of keeping citrus fruits, I would like to recommend the following plants for the home garden:
Kalamandin;
Lemon: Pavlovsky, Panderosa and Yubileiny (the latter, I, like many gardeners, still consider a clone of Panderosa, since the size of the crown, the shape of leaves, flowers, fruits are completely the same, “two twin brothers”, although I purchased Panderosa in Krasnoyarsk, and Yubileiny came by parcel from Maykop);
Lemon Panderosa
Mandarin: Unshiu and Kovana Vasya (again, the latter came from Maykop and does not correspond to the varietal characteristics, the taste of the fruit is sour, closer to calamond than to mandarin, possibly a mismatch);
Mandarin Kovan Vasya
Mandarin Unshiu: bush
Mandarin Unshiu: ripe fruits
Orange: Washington Nevel, Moreau (in fairness, I would like to note that although the latter bore delicious aromatic fruits, it did not live up to its name “Bloody”; perhaps the Siberian sun was not enough to color the fruits red);
Orange Washington Nevel
Limonella Vulcan (limequat Eustis) aka lemon Vulcan;
Kumkat (kinkan);
Lime Persian.
Other types of citrus fruits, although they bore fruit, but in wintering conditions in the house, with dry air and short daylight hours, had an unimportant, shabby appearance, with dried edges of foliage, some almost completely lost it, but over the short summer they were still restored. For the last two years, such plants have been wintering in a dressing room with a temperature of +5-10°C and supplementary lighting with two HPS lamps for 10-12 hours. They are waiting to move into the winter garden, which I am adding to the bathhouse.
Lighting
The most shade-tolerant are lemons; with good care, they can even be found on northern windows. But ideally, it is better for them to provide windows with eastern or western exposure, as well as southern ones behind a curtain, not on the windowsill, otherwise they will get burned in the bright sun.
Tangerines and oranges, on the contrary, require good, bright lighting, with some direct sunlight, with obligatory shading in spring and summer from the midday, scorching sun.
From November to February, it is recommended to supplement the lighting with fluorescent lamps so that the total daylight hours are 12 hours. But I don’t have the opportunity to put a lamp next to each plant. That’s why I don’t light up the citrus fruits in the apartment.
Watering and humidity
Watering citrus fruits must be taken very seriously. Both excess and lack of moisture are very depressing and sometimes lead to the death of the plant. I cannot give recommendations on the frequency of watering. Everything depends in each case on a number of reasons: the time of year, the size of the pot, the structure of the substrate, the condition of the plant, the temperature and humidity of the surrounding air, etc. But general advice I’ll give it anyway: make it a rule every day, and in the summer on a clear, hot day twice, to go around your charges with a bucket of water room temperature+20-30°C, and check the condition of the top layer of soil with your finger or eye. As soon as the top layer has dried, it’s time. When watering, water enough to wet the entire earthen ball. Under no circumstances should you water a little every day; if the soil in the pot is constantly damp, the roots will begin to suffocate and die, and the plant may die.
Many gardeners recommend, in areas with hard water, when watering, add 3% table vinegar (not essence!) at the rate of 1-3 ml per 1 liter of water or citric acid 0.5 g per 3 liters. I get out of this situation much easier. I take water when cleaning aquariums. It is there thanks to microorganisms and dissolved organic substances, becoming much softer and more beneficial for plants. With this I kill two birds with one stone - I clean the aquarium and water the plants.
In winter, when the air in the apartment is very dry, try to spray the crown with warm boiled water.
Top dressing
Citrus fruits, unlike other indoor plants, are very demanding when it comes to nutrition, especially at the beginning of active growth and during fruit set. After all, these are trees, and their roots are limited by the size of a small pot. Where do they get nutrients from? Regular fertilizing with organic and mineral fertilizers gives good results. It is better to alternate them every 10-15 days from mid-February to October. Here it is better to adhere to the rule: it is better to underfeed than to overfeed. During the winter months, do not feed at all. As organic fertilizers They recommend: pour fresh manure with water 1:1, leave for 10 days, dilute with water before use, mullein solution 1:10, bird droppings 1:20, weed infusion 1:10. But you can only use such “fragrant” products on the street. Therefore, I often use ready-made fertilizers from the store, strictly following the dosage written in the instructions.
To prevent chlorosis, I fertilize and spray with iron chelate 1-2 times a year. To do this, I buy iron sulfate at the garden store, and citric acid at the grocery store. We dilute 2.5 g of citric acid in one liter of water, then add 4 g of iron sulfate, and the solution is ready.
All fertilizing must be applied only to a moist substrate, after watering. Do not fertilize newly transplanted, sick, or dormant plants.
Temperature conditions
For successful growth and development of citrus crops, their regular flowering and fruiting, a temperature of +14-24°C is required. During wintering from November to February, the temperature should not be higher than +4-12°C. This is where the main problem of keeping citrus fruits lies. winter period. Lack of sunlight, dry and hot air have a depressing effect on plants. There are two ways to keep indoor citrus trees in winter, in which they feel most prosperous: in a cool room or on the same windowsill, but with additional lighting and spraying. The first method is preferable: a winter garden, a cool terrace, a glazed balcony, where the temperature can be maintained at +3-5°C, but not below 0°C; the plants can withstand even a lack of light without any harm.
In the summer, citrus crops can be placed on the balcony, in the garden, vegetable garden, or front garden. But this must be done gradually. First, it is better to place pots with plants in the shade behind buildings, a house, or under the canopy of trees. The procedure for returning plants to the windowsill at the end of summer is also important. One or two weeks before the onset of the first frost, they must be accustomed to room conditions: during the day they should be kept on outdoors, and at night bring it into the room and spray it.
Crown formation
In order for citrus crops to develop successfully and bear fruit well, it is very important to form the crown correctly. Crown care begins with a young plant and continues throughout their life.
Citrus fruits experience 2-4 growth waves throughout the year (depending on the variety). New growth begins when the ripening of young leaves completely ends. When to prune the crown, gardeners' opinions are divided. Some recommend doing this when the shoot has just begun to form and leaving 2-3 leaves and cutting off the rest. Why waste effort, energy and nutrients if you still have to cut it off and throw it away. Others, on the contrary, recommend that the shoot mature, form, and then only be cut off. This provokes stronger branching below the cut, awakening shoots from dormant buds. The cut part of the branch can be used for cuttings for rooting or grafting. I stick to the golden mean. It all depends on the specific goal you set, what kind of crown you plan to form: standard tree, bush, palmette. Sometimes it becomes necessary to completely break out a newly hatched shoot if it has emerged in the wrong place, or the plant stubbornly refuses to branch and tends only upward.
It is necessary to correctly form the crown skeleton, taking into account the branching order of the shoots, since fruiting begins on shoots of the fourth order. Until 2 years of age, break out flower shoots, not allowing them to bloom until the crown is fully formed, that is, until 20-30 dark green mature leaves grow. Very often you can see such flowering on newly rooted lemon cuttings (Panderosa, Meer, Vulcan) to the detriment of development. To form one fruit there must be at least 10-15 mature leaves, otherwise the tree is depleted.
Transfer
The best time for replanting is mid-February, when the plant is just emerging from hibernation. Be sure to remember that citrus fruits are transplanted extremely carefully so as not to damage the delicate roots. Any pruning of them is unacceptable. Therefore, the operation of transplanting citrus fruits is called transshipment, when they try to preserve the old earthen lump completely, without destruction, removing only the top thin layer earth, to the first roots.
Be sure to lay a drainage layer of 1-3 cm at the bottom of the pot. This can be crushed stone, broken brick, expanded clay, or pebbles. I use charcoal most often, and for good reason. Try moving a 15-20 liter pot with stones at the bottom. Another plus is that coal is saturated with water and other nutrients. If the plant will stand on the windowsills, then choose a white pot, then it will not heat up so much in the sun. Or you will have to wrap it in foil or white paper. This is very important, since citrus roots do not tolerate high temperatures. A dark pot in the sun can heat up to +50°C, and this is certain death for your plant.
Each time you replant plants, you should choose a pot with a diameter 3-5 cm larger than the previous one. Young plants are replanted 1-2 times a year, and adults less often - once every 2-3 years. Never plant a small plant directly into a large pot. It will fatten, and you won’t see fruit for a long time. It is also possible that the soil may become acidic because the seedling does not have time to absorb this volume.
There is soil in the store special for citrus crops, but you can make it yourself. Composition: turf soil, leaf soil, manure humus, river sand in a ratio of 1:1:1:1. If it is not possible to prepare the soil in advance, they do it simpler, dig in those places where nettles grow or moles dig. As a last resort, well-fertilized garden or garden soil with the addition of river sand 4:1 is suitable, if oily then 3:1.
Diseases and pests
The most common pest of citrus fruits is the spider mite. They usually migrate to house plants from vegetables and flowers (especially cucumbers, zucchini and roses). Mites are very difficult to detect, as they are very small - 0.3-07 mm long, and are often located on the underside of the leaf. Although ticks are tiny, the harm they cause is enormous. Reproducing with incredible speed, they entwine young shoots with a web. If they are not destroyed in time, all the leaves will turn yellow and curl, and then dry out and fall off. And the pests will move to other plants. There is only one way out - triple spraying with anti-tick preparations at intervals of 1 week. It is very important to change medications, as pests become accustomed to them. Folk remedies They're unlikely to help here. Treat with pesticides only outdoors. Be sure to use rubber gloves, goggles and a respirator.
I want to talk separately about the propagation of citrus crops. I will publish an article with photographs and step-by-step instructions. Because I know from myself that it is better to see once than to hear a hundred times. For a very long time I thought that this was an incredibly complex and difficult process. But in reality everything turned out to be much simpler.
Evgeniy Sionin , Gromadsk village, Uyarsky district, Krasnoyarsk region
28.02.17
Growing citrus crops indoors
Lemon, mandarin, bigardia (orange), pompelmus and other related species belong to the genus Citrus, subfamily Pomeranaceae, family Rutaceae. Their homeland is the tropics and subtropics of Asia - India, China, Burma and other nearby countries. Introduced into culture in ancient times, many of them even lost their wild ancestors. They are often grown at home. The air in the rooms where they grow, due to the release of phytoncides, which are strong antibiotics, is always clean of pathogenic bacteria.
Citrus fruits, when grown indoors, are very decorative due to their abundant bright green shiny foliage, numerous very beautiful fragrant flowers and bright fruits. The corolla of the flowers is white, consists of five petals, with greenish-transparent points of ethereal glands. Stamens are numerous (more than 25 pieces), large. The aroma is strong and delicate, specifically citrusy. Indoor varieties usually bloom three times a year, in autumn, winter and spring, each time for a very long period. However, fruits usually set only in spring and autumn, winter flowers often represent a barren flower (have an underdeveloped pistil). Ripe fruits are very bright, yellow in lemon, orange in tangerine, orange, quincan and other types of citrus fruits, they wonderfully decorate the tree almost all year round.
They are very tasty and healthy, they contain vitamins - C, B1, B2, P, carotenoids, and other substances that are very necessary for the human body - organic acids, sugars, mineral salts. The peel of the fruit contains 2-2.5% essential oils. It has been established that for the normal development of one fruit, it is necessary that at least 10 leaves “work” for it. One indoor lemon plant 5-7 years old can produce, with normal care, 15-50 pcs. fruits per year, and sometimes more. Citrus fruits ripen indoors in good lighting in 8 months, and in poor light - in 12 months; not removed, they can hang on the tree for about another year, becoming green again and increasing in volume. But the consistency of the pulp and their taste, at the same time, deteriorate, the content of vitamins drops, the skin thickens and becomes coarser. Fresh lemon fruit grown in the room is incomparably more fragrant than store-bought lemon fruit ripened on the plantation. It is better to pick them slightly unripe, fully green, green-yellow (photo 1), then they contain the maximum amount of vitamins. In fully ripe, completely yellow fruits, the content of the latter decreases. This also applies to sold lemons, which should be taken into account when purchasing them. Completely yellow fruits are less useful; they are, in fact, already overripe and substandard. Producing companies, when supplying lemons to Western Europe, usually reject such fruits and send them to Russia, where the population, unknowingly, prefers to buy them.
Often, many indoor floriculture enthusiasts grow citrus fruits from seeds. In this case, the seedling (photo 2) is usually varietal, since the fruits and seeds of lemons, tangerines and many other types of citrus fruits, in most cases, are formed parthenocarpicly, i.e. without pollination. But such a lemon plant will begin to bear fruit late, at 12-18 years, while for a tangerine - at 3-4 years. Therefore, growing the latter is much more profitable. Mandarin is rarely cultivated indoors for one simple reason - most of its varieties have almost no seeds. In addition, it appeared in our country relatively recently, a little more than a century ago, and therefore has not yet become as widespread in indoor floriculture as lemon.
Citrus seeds have a very interesting property, - contain 2-3, or even more, embryos. Therefore, there are several shoots from each seed. However, if the weaker seedlings are not separated and planted in a timely manner, then only one, the strongest, will survive. You can sow seeds all year round, but still, it is best in early spring. They are sown to a depth of approximately 1 cm. Dried seeds quickly lose their viability, so it is advisable to sow almost immediately after removing them from the fruit. They can be stored for some time on the refrigerator shelf, in a plastic bag, in damp sand, sphagnum moss or cotton wool. In fact, this will be stratification, although for citrus species it is not necessary. During storage, seeds should be periodically checked to see if mold has appeared or if they have begun to germinate.
For sowing, a mixture of equal parts of humus (or compost), turf soil, leaf soil, and coarse, well-washed sand (1:1:1:1) is best suited. Shoots usually appear on the 20-27th day. After two true leaves appear, they are plucked by pinching the tap root. Seed specimens adapt better to indoor conditions than seedlings from citrus plantations, but, as already mentioned, in many species they do not bear fruit for a very long time.
Lemon is the only type of citrus fruit that propagates well from cuttings, so it is most rational to propagate its indoor varieties with them. Unlike other tree species, lemon has a supply of nutrients not in the stem, but in the leaves, therefore, when cutting, they should not be removed (except for the lowest one) or shortened. Quickly rooting cuttings are best obtained from semi-lignified shoots of six months of age: cuttings from shoots of the autumn growth period take root especially well in the spring, and spring shoots - at the end of summer. It is better to root them not in pure sand, but in a mixture of it with peat (1:1), or with coniferous soil (the top layer of soil from a coniferous forest, preferably pine). But it can also be planted in a 5-centimeter layer of sand poured on top of a nutrient soil mixture; Before planting, it is advisable to steam it or spill it with a pink solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate). The rooting substrate should always be moderately moist. It should not be allowed to dry out or become excessively waterlogged. A lemon plant grown from a rooted cutting harvested from an adult, fruit-bearing tree can begin to bloom and bear fruit very quickly, in the second or third year, or even earlier.
Other citrus fruits are very difficult to propagate from cuttings, even with the use of growth substances. True, I once witnessed how an orange cutting took root, not in the sand, and not under a film, but simply in a glass of water. But this was an isolated incident. Even lemons usually do not take root in water.
All citrus fruits can be propagated by grafting onto seedlings, any kind (lemon onto orange or tangerine and vice versa); because They all have excellent compatibility. They are grafted using the same standard methods as apple trees, pears and other fruit trees: by budding, into clefts, copulation with a tongue, by the bark, etc. After successful grafting and removal of the rootstock stem, shoots should not be allowed to grow from dormant buds located below , otherwise they will choke the graft and it will die. The optimal rootstock is seedlings 2-3 years old. It is best to perform grafting during the period of active growth of the rootstock. In citrus fruits, depending on the conditions of detention, there are from one to three; but the most favorable, and sometimes the only one, occurs in April - May. Seedlings grafted in stages with adult cuttings, even with a poorly and incorrectly formed crown by the owners, successfully bloom and bear fruit in the second year (photo 3).
All citrus fruits also reproduce well by air layering. Moreover, this method can even root branches bearing fruit, which cannot be achieved by any other method.
Lemon is the most commonly grown plant indoors; it was brought to Europe in the 13th century. In Chinese, the phrase li mung means medicinal fruit. In China, indoor lemon cultivation has been known for more than two thousand years.
Lemon has several varieties bred specifically for indoor cultivation: Pavlovsky, Kursky, Meyer, etc. In addition, sometimes some industrial varieties are cultivated in the house; Novogruzinsky and Novoafonsky grow best in indoor conditions. Mandarin, from seeds, in the house, grows very well; He also has indoor varieties. Oranges and grapefruits are grown at home quite rarely, their trees are too large, and they do not have indoor varieties. But kinkan (kumquat), although it also does not have similar varieties, is very suitable for indoor keeping. Therefore, despite the fact that it is still rarely grown on windowsills (this is relatively new culture), obviously has great prospects for settling in our homes. This means that its indoor varieties will inevitably appear soon.
Industrial varieties of citrus fruits are light-loving and demanding of care, but specially bred indoor varieties are very unpretentious and hardy, putting up with a lack of light. However, it is advisable to choose windows with a southern exposure, and in winter the plants should be illuminated with lamps, preferably daylight, for 4-5 hours.
Optimal temperature in winter for citrus plants should be reduced, but not lower than 12ºС. They do not like rearrangements from place to place. Caring for them is easy. However, it should be remembered that good drainage is required for citrus fruits. They also do not tolerate drafts and cannot tolerate either excess or lack of moisture in the soil. Watering throughout the year should be moderate. In winter, be careful, 1-2 times a week, as long as the soil does not dry out; in summer - more abundantly, 1-2 times a day, but the plants should not be flooded; They also love spraying. Fertilizers are applied from April to the end of August, every 10 days, alternately, organic and mineral, preferably in liquid form. Excess nitrogen in the diet contributes to the transformation of citrus fruits into decorative foliage plants, but has a negative effect on flowering and fruiting. In order for them to bear fruit better, they need increased nutrition with phosphorus (superphosphate).
Citrus fruits should not be kept near window sills in winter, especially next to heating devices. The air in the room should be fresh. Although it is sometimes written in the literature that citrus fruits can be placed outside in the summer - in the garden, on the balcony, etc., it is still better not to do this. The fact is that with a sharp change in illumination, they can shed all their leaves. And even though the crown will recover later, the harvest will be next year will not be. If you still want to take them out into the garden or onto the balcony, then you should accustom the plants to this very gradually, first placing them in the shade, and only for a couple of hours, then gradually increasing the period of stay outside. And this is a lot of labor. Moreover, when placing citrus fruits outside, it is advisable to protect them with a canopy from the rain. In addition, plants, having become accustomed to excellent lighting in the summer, have a hard time adjusting back to its lack of light in indoor conditions in the winter, aggravated by the short and increasingly shortening day length. So in the city of Pavlovo, indoor gardeners, on the contrary, have developed a technique of gradually moving lemons 1-1.5 m from the window in spring and summer, and moving them closer in the fall. Then the illumination of the plants remains more uniform all year round. In this case, they feel much better.
Young plants are replanted annually, adults - after 3-4 years, and old plants (tubs) - once every 5-10 years. It is better to replant in the spring, in March - April. The optimal soil mixture for planting citrus fruits is humus (or compost), turf soil, deciduous soil and sand (2:2:1:1). Drainage in a pot is made 1-2 cm thick from brick chips or ceramics (broken pots), pebbles, and best of all from pieces of charcoal; A layer of coarse sand is poured above, or even better, chopped sphagnum moss is placed. Then the soil mixture is poured.
Forming the crown of any tree is not an easy task, but it is very necessary. However, gardeners, for the most part, are afraid to prune, either have little idea how to do it, or “pity” the tree. There's no point in feeling sorry. You just need to clearly know what you want to get as a result of such an operation and whether it is possible. And, of course, you need at least minimal experience. And it comes in the process of work. Remember that flowers and fruits of citrus fruits are formed on fourth-order branches. To make it clear to everyone, the largest and thickest branches extending from the trunk are first-order branches. From them, respectively, the second; from those - the third, and from the last - the fourth. Only on them can plants of seed origin produce flowers and fruits; until such branches appear, do not expect fruiting. Or the plant must be old in stages, arising from a cutting taken from a fruit-bearing tree. It is by pruning that you can accelerate the appearance of fourth-order branches. The same can be achieved by pinching - as soon as the young branch begins to stretch, shorten it, pinch it after the fourth unfolded leaf. Don’t be afraid to do this; feel free to remove the tip of the shoot. Citrus fruits usually have two to three growth periods per year, so in two years you can easily form a crown up to fourth-order branches. In addition, cut out all the frail ones, as well as the crowns growing inward and thickening its branches. These are the most important rules for crown formation in citrus fruits. For their growth, like all other plants, it is also important to have a suitable soil composition, optimal lighting, proper care, regular feeding. Remember that citrus fruits do not tolerate dry soil, but they also should not be overwatered, especially in winter.
In indoor conditions for keeping citrus fruits, the most convenient form of a bush is with a short trunk of 8-20 cm, and 4-6 main branches of the first order. To do this, the top of a young plant growing in one stem is cut off in early spring, leaving four leaves with buds (in grafted plants, always varietal ones), from which first-order branches will arise. When they become woody, they are also cut into four buds, etc. However, instead of pruning, it is more rational to use tweezing, i.e. pinching, also above the fourth leaf that opens. Pinching of shoots can be done at any time of the year, but intensive pruning is preferable in the spring. When branches of the fourth order appear, the crown can be considered formed. But you can also grow tall specimens, especially for winter gardens, with stems 80-100 cm and even higher; pots and flowerpots with such trees are placed on the floor.
The maximum dimensions for an indoor lemon are 175 cm in height and 150 cm in diameter. Larger specimens, above two meters, are difficult to hold even in winter garden. When caring for the crown, all thickening, too thin branches growing inside the crown, as well as fatty shoots, are cut out; the latter because they are not able to bloom and bear fruit, but consume a lot of nutrients for their development. It is advisable to remove thorns on trunks and branches that can injure a person carelessly approaching the tree and interfere with its care. It's completely harmless. Adults and hard ones can be cut with pruning shears, young and tender ones can simply be plucked out.
Citrus fruits are sometimes quite severely damaged by pests; they are attacked by: aphids, scale insects, spider mites, and scale insects. Control measures are standard for indoor plants. Diseases include: homosis (gum disease) - caused by fungi and bacteria, which usually appears in spring and autumn. The affected areas of the bark dry out and fall off. Wounds that appear on wood do not heal and are not overgrown with bark. The disease usually starts from the upper branches and gradually moves down. Very contagious, its development is facilitated by overly rich soil and deep planting. When the first signs (resinous drops) are detected, the affected area of the bark should be cut out to a healthy place, the wound should be disinfected with a 2% formaldehyde solution and covered with garden varnish. In addition, root rot may occur on the roots, which is caused by a pathogenic fungus and covers the root system with a layer of white mold. A severely affected plant may die. If a disease is detected, the root system is removed from the pot, the soil is shaken off, diseased areas of the roots are cut off, the sections are disinfected, and the plant is planted in a new one. good soil. Yellowing and falling of leaves can be caused by a variety of reasons: both excess and lack of water, soil depletion, lack of magnesium, sudden changes in temperature and light, and it happens that pests are also to blame.
It is believed that spraying with insecticides, if the dosage is properly observed, does not have a negative effect on plants. Usually this is so outwardly, but what happens inside the body of the latter - for the most part is known quite poorly. For example, here’s a spontaneous experiment I had with lemon seedlings that were budded with the eyes of the indoor variety “Pavlovsky”. Most of the buddings have taken root or were in the process of taking root, and have already formed callus - connective tissue, when, due to an oversight, spider mites were introduced onto the plants. To get rid of them, the lemons were treated with the imported synthetic pyrethroid “Kra”. As a result, the mites were destroyed, the rootstocks, outwardly, were not damaged, but the grafts, all as one, even those that began to grow, died. When removing the binding, it was discovered that a layer of suberized cells had formed between the rootstock and scion. Moreover, some of the grafted plants located in the next room served as involuntary control. They were not infected with spider mites, they were not treated, and all the vaccinations took root there. Of course, one and a half dozen dead vaccines are not enough to draw final conclusions, but even from these very preliminary data it is clear that there is such a problem. Moreover, the story continued. Two years later, one of the grafted control plants was treated against the scale insects that appeared on it with karbofos, as a result of which the entire upper part of the plant (the already overgrown scion) died. While the rootstock remained alive, and began to restore branches and foliage from dormant buds on the trunk. This case once again confirms the correctness of the guess about the negative impact of insecticides (at least some) precisely on the site of fusion. Let's assume that if, when using a drug of increased concentration (which did not happen), the leaves were burned and died, then the restoration of the crown should have come from dormant buds on the branches, i.e. - scion, because they are located higher than that of the rootstock. But that did not happen. Consequently, we have yet another confirmation of the negative impact of chemicals on the site of vaccination. It would be interesting to check what the effect of different insecticides is on similar vaccinations carried out on fruit trees: apple, pear and other species. It is possible that some cases of their mass death described in the literature are associated precisely with the treatment of young plants with insecticides and fungicides. In any case, gardeners should, if possible, avoid the use of chemicals during the period of rooting of cuttings, and even for several years after that. Scientific institutions that create insecticides and other preparations for plant treatments need to check the possibility of their negative impact on the survival rate of cuttings, and if this is discovered, give appropriate restrictions in the annotation.
Most often, from citrus fruits, in our country, at home, we grow Pavlovsk lemon, the most ancient of our indoor varieties. According to one legend, seedlings of this lemon were brought to the city of Pavlov by the merchant I. S. Karachistov back in the 19th century, from Turkey. And according to another, lemon seeds got there a hundred years earlier, with a caravan of gifts from the Persian Shah to Catherine II, “grabbed” (along with the fruits), and then planted by one of the movers. It is possible that both legends are true. Pavlovsk lemon is an old indoor variety, due to the very long period of cultivation in indoor culture, as a result of bud mutations (sports deviations) it was divided into several forms, significantly different in their properties, in fact - independent varieties, with one or another as positive so, sometimes, with negative properties. Therefore, cuttings for its replication should always be taken from the best, and not from the worst, plants. His life expectancy is more than 45 years; Plants reach maximum yields at 15-20. Pavlovsk lemon is usually formed in a bush-like form, up to 1.5-2 meters in height. Its crown is round, up to 1 m in diameter. The bark of the branches is olive-gray, longitudinally fissured, the bark of the shoots is green, shiny, smooth. The branches have thorns up to 2 cm long, but sometimes thornless forms are also found. Depending on the growing technology, Pavlovsk lemon can have from one to four growth periods; usually from late March to late May, from mid-June to mid-July, and from mid-September to late October. The total growth per year can reach 50-70 cm. Its leaves are large, dark green, glossy, up to 15 cm long and 8 cm wide. Their shape is from oval to oval-oblong and broadly lanceolate; the petiole is short, up to 1 cm. The more leaves a plant has, the better it grows and bears fruit. When growing this variety, you should be very careful; if the air and soil are dry, the plant can quickly shed almost all of them. Pavlovsk lemon is remontant, blooms for the first time in April - May, the second (not always) - in October, and the third (occasionally) - in January - February. The flowers are large, up to 3 cm in diameter, white, waxy, sometimes with an underdeveloped pistil, self-pollinating, collected in inflorescences of 3-8 pieces. On flowering plants, especially young ones, it is advisable to normalize the ovaries. One plant often has flowers, young and mature fruits at the same time. The latter ripen in approximately 180-200 days, their length is 7-9, and their diameter is 5-6 cm. The thickness of the skin varies, depending on the shape, from 2 to 8 mm, but is usually 4-5 mm. The number of segments is 8-12 (on average 10), their flesh has a delicate greenish-yellow color. The seeds are about 1 cm in length. Chemical composition fruits: water - up to 92%; solids - 8, sugars - 2, organic acids from 4 to 8%. The amount of vitamin C in the pulp is 25-57 mg/%, in the peel - 52-117 mg/%.
Meyer lemon is a very productive variety, exported from China, and begins to bear fruit in the second year. The fruits are large or medium-sized, round-oval, yellow-orange in color. The pulp is canary yellow, juicy, sweeter than other varieties of lemon (sweet-sour), and has an aroma reminiscent of an orange. It produces almost no seeds.
In addition, sometimes fans of indoor floriculture can find the Kursky variety, which is unfortunately still not widespread enough.
New Athos lemon is an industrial variety of open ground, productive, medium-sized fruits with a nipple on top, very juicy, sour and aromatic. It can be grown indoors, but is less suitable for this than varieties specially bred for indoor floriculture. The same can be said about the Novogruzinsky variety; other open ground varieties are less suitable for growing indoors.
Other citrus fruits, except tangerine, do not yet have indoor varieties, but this does not mean that all of them are unsuitable for indoor cultivation. Somewhat less due to the size of their crown and fruits, grapefruits and oranges are suitable for this. But they, if there is a sufficiently large room, grow well indoors. Even better for these purposes is the citron, which grows as a tall bush up to 1.4 m tall and blooms almost all year round. Its leaves are leathery, up to 8 cm long. The flowers are white, fragrant. The fruits are 2.5-4 cm in diameter, sometimes up to 9 cm, bitterish-sour, but still pleasant to the taste; decorate the tree throughout the year. And all other citrus fruits, both mentioned and not mentioned, grow quite well indoors.
Citrus fruits are very interesting and rewarding indoor crops. But historically, it so happened that the majority of indoor plant lovers grow mainly lemons in their apartments. Meanwhile, lemon is far from the most suitable type for this. It is large, specimens grown from seeds enter the fruiting period very late (most ordinary hobbyists usually breed them this way). They grow, they grow, but they don’t bear fruit. And this can continue for 12-15, or even 18 years. There is something to think about. One good thing is that since the fruits of lemons usually set parthenocarpicly (without pollination), the plants grown from seeds completely repeat the mother tree, therefore, they are varietal. Lemons also have other disadvantages: although the fruits are large, their color is quite pale - yellow-green, whereas in other citrus fruits it is much brighter - orange. Their fruits are too sour and cannot compare with the taste of most other citrus fruits.
Orange and grapefruit are much less common in indoor cultivation than lemon, although the first of them has been known in European fruit growing since the 14th century. They are only occasionally grown from seeds. They do not have specially bred “domestic” varieties. They are not very suitable for indoor conditions - they are too tall, even larger than a lemon. They can only be placed in small spaces with great difficulty. And their fruits are too large and do not harmonize with the size of the premises. Therefore, in indoor conditions, these types do not look good; halls are a different matter. But, nevertheless, some attention is also paid to their cultivation in indoor floriculture. Their seed specimens, like those of lemons, enter the fruiting season quite late. Therefore, when growing them, they also use grafting of cuttings taken from fruit-bearing trees. Since indoor varieties of orange and grapefruit similar to lemon have not yet been bred, their seedlings are grafted with cuttings taken from ordinary fruit-bearing plants. fruit varieties open ground. Such a grafted indoor tree, with proper pruning and care, begins to bear fruit in the third or fourth year, and sometimes earlier.
But the problem is that most gardeners do not know how to plant, and among lovers of indoor floriculture, this is an almost universal phenomenon. Many people want to have citrus fruits at home. There are two ways out of this situation: either learn to graft, or sow seeds at home on the window, but not lemon, but tangerine. The latter, unlike other citrus fruits, even when grown from a seed, blooms in the third year. Moreover, it has a number of advantages over lemon, orange and other related species. In addition to entering the fruiting period very early, it is usually more miniature, therefore, it takes up less space, bears fruit abundantly, and its fruits are, perhaps, still more beautiful and tastier. However, it is cultivated quite rarely. There are several reasons for this. Firstly, tangerines in our country, even in open ground, in cultivation on the Black Sea coast, they began to grow much later than lemons and oranges; only at the end of the 19th century. Naturally, this was reflected in its later introduction into indoor floriculture. Another difficulty is that seeds are very rarely found in its fruits. The fact is that even more often than lemons, they set parthenocarpicly, and seeds in such fruits are very rarely formed. But still, sometimes they occur, and in some foreign varieties - sometimes even often. Therefore, when you find seeds, immediately sow them in a pot, otherwise they will dry out and die.
Mandarin (photo 4), in our country, is mostly bred by seed, and even then rarely, although it is the only one that has been bred from all citrus fruits, except lemon, into indoor varieties propagated by grafting.
Of these, the most famous is the variety from Vietnam, the name of which, translated, sounds like “New Year’s”. At home, it is specially grown and placed in New Year on the table instead of the Christmas tree. The appearance of the plant is very decorative. Its plants are much lower and smaller than those of industrial varieties of tangerines; in fact, it is a dwarf, rarely growing above a meter. In addition, it is well adapted to indoor conditions - it is relatively shade-tolerant and tolerates a lack of light. Its crown is usually simultaneously strewn with a mass of white fragrant flowers and beautiful bright orange fruits. Can you imagine how pleasant it is to pick (especially for children) a fragrant tangerine right from such an improvised “Christmas tree” and eat it. True, its fruits are somewhat smaller and have a more sour taste than those of open ground varieties, but there are quite a lot of them. “New Year’s” is still rare in our country, and getting its cuttings is not so easy. But such varietal trees can already be bought in some specialized stores. However, when purchasing, you must carefully ensure that the purchased plants are not infected with dangerous pests and diseases. Among the pests, this variety is often affected by aphids, spider mites, and false scale insects; the latter is especially dangerous because it is very difficult to fight. In summer, “New Year’s” can be displayed on the balcony.
If you cannot or do not want to purchase such a varietal tangerine, you can grow a fairly similar plant from a seed at home. The latter, brought up indoors from childhood, will be better adapted to them than grafted with cuttings of an industrial variety. It is very original and beautiful when, on New Year’s Eve, instead of New Year’s toys, your tangerine will have numerous orange fruits hanging on it. And if you know how to graft, then it is quite possible to graft a tangerine, including the “New Year” variety, onto a lemon or orange rootstock. Moreover, some of the branches of the rootstock can be refined with cuttings of lemon, and the rest with cuttings of mandarin, or other citrus fruits, primarily such as kincan and citron. Orange, and especially grapefruit, as already mentioned, are too large (both the tree itself and the fruits), so they are less suitable for indoor conditions, although if desired, you can graft them too. Then on one tree yellow and orange, large and small, round and oblong fruits of several crops will ripen. Very original, beautiful and unusual.
Fans of indoor floriculture know lemon well. But about such a close relative as the kinkan, wonderful and very promising for indoor growing form of citrus fruits, is known only to certain, especially enthusiastic amateur flower growers. Meanwhile, growing it indoors is much more promising, and in many ways easier, than the crops listed above. It is especially suitable for bonsai-style shaping. And the insufficient distribution of its species in indoor culture is the result of the still too short historical period of their cultivation, not only in the southern fruit growing of our country, but also in the subtropical horticulture of the whole world.
The first mention of kinkan was made in 1646, but it really became known relatively recently. So it was brought to Europe (England) only in 1846, and came to Russia only at the very end of the 19th century. But the present botanical description its species were made much later, a little over a hundred years ago, by the Algerian botanist Trabu, in 1912. The most common of them is the oval kinkan; its other names are kumquat, golden orange, and Fortunella (Fortunella margarita Swingle). Its homeland is Southeast China (Guangzhou), known only in culture. Despite the fact that it is an evergreen plant, it has a real deep winter dormancy and the highest winter hardiness among citrus fruits. This is a dwarf evergreen branched tree; V garden culture up to two to three meters in height, shoots are triangular, with thorns (some varieties do not have them). The leaves are shiny, green, up to 10 cm long and 3 cm wide, like all citrus fruits, with essential oil glands. Variegated forms are available. The flowers are axillary, collected in 1-3 pieces, white, with a typical citrus shape. Blooms in spring and summer. The fruits are small, ovoid or oval, 3-4.5 cm long and 2-2.5 wide, golden yellow or yellow-orange, weighing about 25 g. They look like a plum. Edible. The skin is thick, dense, smooth, aromatic, rich in essential oils, sweetish-spicy; very good for the production of candied fruits.
The pulp is sour or sweet and sour, pleasant to the taste, 4-7 cloves (usually 5). The fruits are eaten fresh, whole, with the peel. They taste like tangerines, but are slightly sour and spicier due to the essential oil. The taste of zest remains in the mouth for a long time after eating. They make jam and produce the best varieties marmalade and jelly, candied, drinks and other processed products. The fruits ripen late in autumn and can hang on the tree for almost a whole year, which greatly decorates the tree if it is grown for decorative purposes. Each fruit contains 2-5 pieces of full-grain seeds, very similar in appearance to tangerine seeds. They are 5-8 mm long and 4-6 mm wide; in addition, the fruits often additionally contain a significant number of puny, underdeveloped and empty seeds. In addition to food, kinkan also has medicinal value; in oriental medicine it is used as an anti-inflammatory, tonic, anti-alcohol, disinfectant and to help treat colds. Kinkan is bred indoors, mostly by seed. And since its fruits are on sale, those gardeners who really want to have this plant can quite simply grow it from seeds. This is also advisable because plants grown from seeds are more easily adapted to indoor conditions. With proper care, kinkan begins to bear fruit in the third year after sowing. There are also cultivated varieties for open ground, propagated vegetatively: Margarita, Nagami, Oval kumquat, Crastifolia, Meiwa, which are widely grown in China, Japan, Korea, Australia, the USA and other countries. Kinkan is very beautiful, in addition, although its fruits have no advantages in taste over those of other citrus fruits, the plant itself has very important advantages - higher winter hardiness, low, almost dwarf growth, unpretentiousness. Therefore, it is grown in these countries in gardens not only as a fruit, but also as ornamental plant, used to create hedges. And its cut branches, with fruits, are used as original bouquets.
In addition to kinkan margarita, Japanese kinkan or marumi (Fortunella japonica) is often cultivated. This is an evergreen tree two to three meters in height, with a dense crown, thorny shoots, white flowers and orange fruits 3 cm in diameter with a sweet peel and sour pulp. And thick-leaved kinkan (Fortunella crassifolia), with fruits that have sweet pulp. The last two species can also be grown as indoor plants. Their appearance and cultivation technology are similar to those of Kinkan margarita. In addition to those listed, there are three more types of kinkan in the world, but they are quite rare, so their acquisition is unlikely.
Although kinkans are still very rare in indoor culture, from the above it is clear that they are very promising for this, however, their cultivation at home has not yet been developed in detail. It is assumed that the technology for growing other citrus crops can be used as a basis for growing them at home. However, this may reveal their own unique characteristics, so the experience of those indoor floriculture enthusiasts who will take up the cultivation of this new and very promising indoor crop will be very valuable and interesting. Kinkans hybridize well with poncirus, lemon, tangerine and other types of citrus fruits. Therefore, their selection can also turn out to be a very interesting and promising field of activity for gardeners and flower growers in developing new hybrids and varieties of these breeds.
Care
Pavlovsk lemon.
Pavlovsky is one of the most attractive varieties of this type of citrus fruit grown indoors. This is a small compact bush from 1 to 1.5 meters in height, rarely reaching 2 m. It usually has 2-4 stems. Its crown is round, up to 1 m in diameter, or up to 1.5 m if formed like a fan, with branches hanging down. The bark on old branches is olive-gray, with longitudinal cracks, on young branches it is green. The branches have spines up to 1-2 cm long, pointed at the ends. Young spines are green, then they turn brown.
Lemon leaves are light green, 13-15 cm long, 5-8 cm wide. Leaf blades vary in shape - from oval to oblong. But there are specimens with ovoid and broadly lanceolate leaves. As a rule, winging on petioles is not found, with rare exceptions. The serrations at the ends of the leaves also vary, with the serrations usually located at the top of the leaf. The surface of the leaves is glossy and shiny. Leaves live for 2-3 years.
Pavlovsk lemon is a self-pollinating plant. Cross pollination is done artificially. Flower buds are established and developed throughout the year. You can often see young ovaries, flowers, and mature fruits on the same specimen.
But Pavlovsk lemon blooms profusely in March and April, and in the fall - in September-October. Each flower blooms for 7-10 days. The flowers are fragrant, solitary, 2-3 cm in diameter, but sometimes collected in small inflorescences.
Pavlovsk lemon has several growth periods. The first period begins at the end of February and lasts until June. Then there is a short rest. From July 15-20, the second wave of growth begins. And the third - from about September 15 and ends at the end of October. During this period, shoots can increase by 50-70 cm.
Fruits are first formed in the third or fourth year after the rooting of slightly lignified green cuttings. High yields in tubs are produced by 15-20 year old plants - several dozen fruits.
After flowering, the growth of the ovary and the ripening of the fruit lasts 8-9 months.
The last stage of ripening is 30-35 days. If the plants are poorly lit, then the duration of ripening increases to 11-12 months. If a ripe lemon is not removed from the branch, its growth continues. The fruits acquire a green color, grow, and increase in volume.
Pavlovsk lemons can ripen from 8 months to a year or more. Moreover, a partially yellowed lemon begins to turn green again and increase in size. Then within a few months it completely turns yellow. Sometimes " full cycle" takes about a year and a half. A fully ripe Pavlova lemon is pure yellow in color.
Pavlovsk lemon is large-fruited. Young, well-leafed bushes produce fruits weighing 300-540 g. The surface of the fruit can be smooth, shiny or to varying degrees rough and even slightly bumpy.
The amount of vitamin C in the pulp varies from 25 to 57 milligrams per 100 grams of substance, and in the peel it is 1.5-2 times more. Acidity ranges from 4 to 7 percent, its ratio with sugar and aromatic substances is in most cases favorable. Average The thickness of the peel is 4 - 5 millimeters. Often the fruits are seedless. But fruits with 5-10 seeds and multi-seeded ones (10-20) are also often found. Seeds with high viability. Their germination rate ranges from 80 to 90%. The fruits are in no way inferior to the best southern varieties. The amount of vitamin C in the pulp varies from 25 to 57 milligrams per 100 grams of substance, and in the peel it is 1.5-2 times more. Acidity ranges from 4 to 7 percent, its ratio with sugar and aromatic substances is in most cases favorable. Average peel thickness is 4 - 5 millimeters.
Room conditions, not typical for the nature of citrus fruits, contributed to the appearance of deviant forms, which were fixed vegetatively (by cuttings). As a result, many different forms were formed, differing in growth strength, leaf shape and especially in the shape, size, color, internal structure and taste of the fruit. Both high-quality and low-value forms are formed. But most of them are different high qualities. Active artificial selection is underway.
Pavlovsk lemon grows best on windows with an eastern orientation; on southern windows it often burns from direct sunlight. Easily propagated by green cuttings.
Panderosa (Ponderosa)
An indoor variety, a natural hybrid between lemon and pompelmousse or citron, in indoor conditions it is a small compact bush with a beautiful decorative shape, very resistant to high temperatures and dry air and begins to bear fruit in the 2nd year. The branches are strong, the leaves are dark green, smooth, hard, round in shape.
It blooms profusely, the flowers are large, white-cream in color, often collected in inflorescences,
but little fruit is produced. True, they are larger in size than previous varieties, often weighing up to one kilogram.
The pulp is pleasant, the lemon taste, and the characteristic citric acid in the fruit is almost not felt. The peel is thick, lumpy on top. The variety has proven itself well in indoor cultivation, thanks to its small crown volume and abundant flowering. Easily propagated by cuttings. Sometimes it begins to bloom already at the stage of rooted cuttings, which interferes with growth.
Jubilee lemon
Mysterious variety. Here's what you can read about this variety on the Internet.
“Obtained in Uzbekistan by grafting the Tashkent lemon variety onto the Novogruzinsky variety. At the same time, one of the branches began to grow quickly and produce gigantic fruits weighing up to one kilogram or more. This is a rare phenomenon of gigantism among plants. The Yubileiny variety turned out to be sterile in relation to any other varieties, although it cross-pollinates them. The endurance and yield of this variety is even higher than that of the Tashkent variety. Jubilee lemon deserves the attention of specialists and amateurs for its shade tolerance, productivity, unique ability to reproduce, grow, and almost 100% fruit set in conditions of low air and soil moisture.”
This statement may be true, but what is alarming is that this variety is very similar to Panderosa in many ways. It is possible that he is a Panderosa hybrid or a clone.
The tree is medium-sized: the height of an adult plant is no more than 1.5 m. It tolerates dry room air well and rarely needs crown formation. The variety is high-yielding, the fruits are large with thick skin, resistant to high temperatures and dry air, it begins to bear fruit in the 2nd year (in the picture there is a Jubilee lemon at the age of two years), but sometimes the fruits set in 1 year of life. It is very difficult to achieve growth from a tree; instead of new branches, bouquet branches with buds constantly appear, there are a lot of them on the tree - several such branches appear from each leaf axil, from each dormant bud.
It blooms profusely, large flowers are collected in inflorescences of 10-15 pieces. When flowering, the tree turns into a white ball. (in this photo the Jubilee is blooming, 1 flower is left on each bouquet branch).
The branches are strong, but droop under the weight of the fruit. The leaves are large, dark green, smooth, hard, round or oval.
Meyer lemon
This variety of lemon is also often found among lovers; its origin is as mysterious as that of the Jubilee lemon.
According to some sources, “Meyer” is considered the result of a long-standing natural hybridization of lemon and orange; according to others, it is a variety or hybrid of Cantonese lemon with an orange-red peel. Lemon owes its name to researcher Franz Meyer, who discovered it in Beijing; city residents grew lemon in pots. From China, lemon came to the United States, and in the early 30s it was introduced from the United States to the southern regions of the Soviet Union.
The variety is widespread in the open ground of the subtropics of the Black Sea coast, where it is grown on trifoliate rootstock. The tree is medium-sized, 1-1.5 m high, with a rounded, compact, well-leafed and easily shaped crown, with a small number of thorns. The leaves are dark green, shiny, dense, thick, ovoid, serrated. It stands out among other varieties due to its abundant fruiting and not very sour taste of the fruit. The weight of the fruit is 70-150 g. The maintainability, early ripening, and good fruiting of this variety make it promising for indoor cultivation, where it is grown on its own roots. It blooms earlier than other varieties, usually in March-April. Buds are formed only on the shoots of the current year.
The flowers are white, very fragrant, smaller in size than other varieties (3-4 cm in diameter), single or arranged in clusters of 2-6 in an inflorescence.
The fruits are round in shape, practically without a nipple, with a thin peel of bright yellow or orange color, ripen 8-9 months after ovary.
Meyer lemon fruits are picked unripe, similar in color to the limequat fruit.
The pulp consists of 6-10 cloves, tender, juicy, slightly bitter, containing 5% sugar. about 40% vitamin C and more than 20% vitamin P.
The plant easily tolerates warm, dry air in living spaces when moistened in winter. Needs good lighting, prefers south-facing windows. It is easily propagated by cuttings, and when grown from seed it begins to bloom in the fifth year.
Novogruzinsky (Novo-Athos) lemon
Selected by breeder of the Sukhumi experimental station VIR N.M. Murri. On Georgian plantations it is considered the best in terms of yield and quality of fruits. The trees are vigorous, with a spreading, beautiful, well-leafed crown, reaching 1.5-2 m in height in a room and a large number of thorns. The leaves are light green, elongated with a pointed tip, average size 12 x 5 cm, very fragrant.
Remontant variety. The flowers are large, the outer side of the petals has a purple tint. The New Georgian lemon blooms at 4-5 years of age, being a powerful tree.
The fruits are almost without seeds and look very impressive on the tree. The shape of the fruit is elongated-oval, with a wide blunt nipple, the peel is smooth, glossy, up to 5 mm thick.
The average fruit weight is 120 grams. The juicy and tender fine-grained pulp consists of 9-10 cloves, satisfies the most sophisticated taste, has a pleasant acidity and a very strong aroma. Chemical composition of the pulp: sugar - 1.7%, acid - 6%, vitamin C - more than 58 milligrams per 100 grams of substance. It begins to bear fruit later than the Pavlovsk lemon, by 4-5 years.
Lemon Maykop
A variety of folk selection. Bred by seed propagation during selection the best seedlings. Thus, over a period of more than a hundred years, individual plants were gradually selected and formed from the mass of grown seedlings, which then began to bear fruit, producing fruits of better quality than the original forms.
Currently, several forms or types have been identified among Maikop lemons, which differ markedly from each other in a number of characteristics, here are two of them:
1st type.
The trees form well almost without a trunk, giving a large, loose, well-leafed crown with an abundance of thin fruit branches. The branches are flexible, without thorns, mostly located horizontally, and some hanging down. The leaves are dark green, smooth with a waxy coating and almost smooth edges. Flowers and ovary are collected in brushes of 3-5 pieces. The fruits are rounded and elongated, not deformed, the nipple is medium, almost without a rim. The peel of the fruit is rough and thin. The aroma of the fruit is strong. The average weight of the fruit is 130-140 g. The trees are unpretentious, adapted to ordinary apartment conditions.
2nd type.
The trees are formed with a symmetrical crown, having strong, stable branches without thorns, located semi-vertically. Leaves with smooth edges and noticeable veins. Fruit branches are located singly. The fruits are oblong, with a slight thickening at the top, slightly noticeable ribbing, are not deformed, the nipple is small without a rim. The peel of the fruit is thin, as if polished, with small dimples. The aroma of the fruit is good. The average weight of the fruit is 125-140 g. The trees are adapted to wintering in indoor conditions, but overwinter better in cold rooms.
Here is what breeder V.M. Zinkovsky writes about this variety: “Maykop is famous for its indoor lemons, bred in tubs. 100-300 fruits are harvested from a tree annually, and there have been cases where harvests from a 30-year-old tree reached up to 750 fruits.” The height of Maikop lemons in rooms reaches 1.5-2 meters.
Lemon Genoa
A weak-growing tree without thorns. A very productive variety: in the fourth or fifth year of life it produces about 50 fruits; an adult tree yields 120-180 fruits. The fruits are oblong-oval in shape, with a small sharp nipple at the top. The quality of the fruit is higher than that of other varieties, the pulp is very tender, juicy, sour, pleasant taste, the peel of the fruit is edible. Needs sufficient lighting (south, southeast window, loggia.)
To be continued... Article written Alex