How to make a bed with your own hands - from choosing materials to the finished product. Making a baby bed with your own hands: step-by-step master class with photos and videos, ready-made drawings and diagrams Make a baby bed with your own hands drawings

When a second child appears in a family, which happens often, the question of compact sleeping places for children inevitably arises. The most rational and aesthetic solution is to buy a bunk children's bed. But not everyone can afford it, but making it yourself is much cheaper and easier.

Pros and cons of a children's bunk bed

For many families, such a double bed is sometimes the only acceptable option, because the advantages here outweigh the disadvantages.

Main advantages bunk bed for children:

• it takes up little space in the room (in city apartments, where every square meter is important, this is a significant plus);
• bunk bed looks beautiful if done with skillful hands with due diligence;
• it can perform simultaneously functions sports corner and a workplace for the child;
• Making a bunk bed with your own hands is possible with minimal carpentry skills.

But such furniture also has disadvantages:

• the whole structure sometimes looks too bulky due to its large height;
• a purchased bunk bed in cabinet furniture stores is expensive (from 7 thousand rubles or more);
• a child may fall from the second floor if the sides are not securely secured;
• the bed may turn out to be unstable; it will probably have to be additionally secured to the wall.

But all these disadvantages are not scary at all if you assemble the product yourself and follow all the recommendations of experts.

Photo gallery: bunk beds for children

A design with a ladder at the end will be convenient for both children to use. For a small room, a bed with a pull-out sleeping place is suitable. A bed with the function of a sports corner will appeal to boys. Symmetrical furniture will not leave anyone deprived. Sleeping places can be located perpendicular to each other. A staircase in the form of drawers will help save space. If desired you can make a whole functional complex A bunk bed is also suitable for teenagers. A bunk bed can have in its design different shelves and boxes Classic version equipped with a regular staircase

How to make a bunk bed with your own hands (option 1)

And you need to start, as with any serious matter, by thinking through the design and drawing up a project.

Design description, drawing

Most often, the product is made of wooden blocks and plywood. This is the simplest and cheap option. Remember that the width of the bed must provide sufficient space and fit standard size mattress. The optimal size is 80 cm.

As for the height of each tier, these parameters are taken individually. The first floor should be no lower than the tallest toy box, which will then slide under the bed. Usually it is 35 cm.

The second tier will rise to a height of 1.3 m from the floor or more. If you do below, certain inconveniences may arise. For example, an adult will not be able to sit up straight.

The total height of the structure should be approximately 2 m. More bad - the older (younger) brother (or sister), getting up in the morning, will poke his head into the ceiling. The length of the bed is assumed to be equal to the maximum average height of an adult. Ideally this size is between 1.75 m and 2 m.

The optimal width is 610 mm for stairs. It will be convenient to use for children and adults.

As for the distance between steps, it should be a minimum of 200 mm and a maximum of 260 mm. Otherwise, difficulties will arise for the child stepping from one step to another.

Material selection and quantity calculation

Bars are ideal for a bunk bed, since such material is inexpensive.

When selecting bars, you need to immediately look at their quality. You should only buy those that have as few knots as possible, smooth surface and good straightness to the eye. Pine or spruce are best suited. This material is inexpensive, durable and easy to process.

Let the height of the bed be 2 m, width 0.82 m, and length 1.88 m. Let's take the height of the first tier 35 cm from the floor, and the second - 1.5 m from the floor. We set the width of the steps to be 63 cm.

So, for the main frame you will need strong bars with a cross section of 40x60 mm. Remember that there will be 4 vertical posts of 2 m each and 4 horizontal crossbars of 1.88 m each, and you will also need 4 end horizontal beams of 0.82 m each. This lumber is sold in beams 2 m long. From each such beam you will get 2 end crossbars . As a result, you will need the total number of indicated bars N=4+4+2=10 pieces.

In addition, you will need sides made of bars with a smaller cross-section - 30x40 mm. The steps can be made from the same lumber.

A homemade bed can always be styled as overall design rooms

Now you can calculate bars with a cross section of 30x40 mm. The staircase will be located on the left side of the façade of the structure. In this case, the right ends of the steps will rest against a separate vertical post with their ends and be fixed to it. And the left ends will be overlapped and fixed on the front main vertical bed with a section of 40x60 mm. The steps themselves will remain with a rectangular profile. Their total number is 6 pieces (since we take the distance between them to be 250 mm, divide the height of the second tier by this value and get N=1.5/0.25=6).

So, for the stairs you will need:

• vertical right post with a section of 30x40 mm and a height of 2 m;
• steps of the same section with a total length L=6x0.63=3.78 m.

It is not difficult to calculate that from each block standard length 2 m will be 3 steps (0.63x3=1.89). This means that a total of 2 beams are needed for these elements. In total, we use 3 bars with a cross section of 30x40 mm and a standard length of 2 m for the stairs.

As for the sides, these elements are not needed below, on the first floor. On the second tier you can make two sides - on the facade and at the ends. On the back of the bed it is enough to make only one crossbar, because there will still be a wall of the room there.

The two front sides are each the length of the bed (minus the width of the stairs). The same applies to the rear. And the end ones are 0.82 m long. There are 4 of them in total. It is easy to calculate that from one piece of 2 m you will get 2 end beams. This means that in total you will need for the sides a number of two-meter bars with a cross section of 30x40 mm, equal to N=2+1+1+1=5 pieces.

The surface of a homemade bed can be decorated as desired

The flooring of the sleeping areas is made of plywood and reinforcing beams with a section of 20x20 mm. You will need an area of ​​plywood, equal to area sleeping places. Thus, using the dimensions of the bed, you get: S = 0.82x1.88 = 1.54 m 2. This is the area of ​​one place. For the entire bed we take the value 3.1 m2.

It remains to count the bars with a cross section of 20x20 mm. You will need 4 pieces of two-meter blanks to secure them to the long horizontal bars of the bed. The sections reinforcing the plywood will later rest on these beams. There are enough such pieces for 8 pieces per single bed. Total length L=8x0.82x2=13.12 m. That is, 7 two-meter blanks. The total number of bars of this profile: 4+7=11 pieces.

Besides wooden parts nessesary to use metal corners and self-tapping screws. This design has 8 connection points for the most powerful beams with a section of 40x60 mm. For each such element you need to use 2 corners.

Self-tapping screws are enough for 100 grams of each of two sizes - 80 mm long for the main fasteners and 35 mm long for small things.

It is better to use black wood screws with a nominal diameter of 3 mm. They can be easily screwed into any wood without pre-drilling. And then the hats can be closed with special decorative “buttons”.

Now you can make a final list:

• block with a cross section of 40x60 mm - 10 pieces;
• blanks 30x40 mm - 3 beams for the stairs and 5 for the sides - 8 pieces;
• plywood with minimum thickness 3–5 mm and an area of ​​3.1 m2;
• block 20x20 mm - 11 pieces;
• metal corners - 16 pieces;
• self-tapping screws 80 mm long - about 0.1 kg;
• self-tapping screws 35 mm long - about 0.1 kg.

Before starting work, it is better to arrange all materials in separate piles, combining them by type and size.

Tools

To make a bunk bed you will need the following plumbing and power tools:

• screwdriver;
• jigsaw with a set of wood files;
• roulette;
• level;
• electric drill and wood drill with a diameter of 4 mm.

To assemble such a seemingly complex structure, only a minimal set of ordinary tools is needed.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

All work on assembling a bunk bed consists of several stages:

1. Cut long horizontal beams with a jigsaw, 4 pieces. The total length of the bed, equal to 1.88 m, includes the size of the profile of the verticals. That is, you need to cut horizontal beams each 1.8 m long. Since the vertical section has one of the dimensions of 0.04 m (40 mm), then during assembly the total length of the bed will be L = 1.8 + 0.04 + 0.04 = 1.88 m.
2. On next stage just assemble the verticals with long horizontal beams. To do this, first place a two-meter piece of workpiece against the lower cut crossbar along the markings and fasten it with a corner. Then do the same with the top horizontal.
3. Attach a second vertical to the other ends of the cut beams. Then, repeating all the operations, assemble another symmetrical unit consisting of bed posts and its horizontal beams.
4. Having assembled the frame of the front and rear parts of the product in this way, connect these sidewalls into one structure. To do this, first cut 4 pieces of 70 cm long from a block with a cross-section of 40x60 mm. These will be the end rails of the bed.
5. Combine them with other parts of the bed. First fasten with corners in the same places where the long horizontal beams are attached. Then reinforce the entire structure with long self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the “body” of the bars. If necessary, pre-drill holes for mounting with a drill. As a result, the width of the bed will be 0.82 m. This size includes a section of each end beam of 0.7 m and two vertical profiles of 0.06 m each (with a section of 40x60 mm).
6. Now that the bed skeleton has been made, you can begin installing the stairs. To begin, cut six steps (from blanks with a cross-section of 30x40 mm) each 0.63 m long.
7. Measure on the facade a distance of 0.63 m from the far left point of the bed and mark the location of the vertical rack for the stairs. Screw the right two-meter vertical ladder to the horizontal façade beams of the product.
8. Attach steps in increments of 0.25 m, counting from the floor. Moreover left side should overlap the bedpost.
9. The right end of each step should rest against vertical beam ladder Therefore, on the right, each time drive the screw into the profile of the vertical, and on the left, into the profile of the step through the bed post. To be sure, when installing steps, you can use a level, placing it on top of the mounted sections.
10. All that remains is to secure the sides and cover the sleeping areas. Cut the beams for the fence from a bar with a section of 30x40 mm. For the end ones, the length is equal to the same length as the corresponding bed rails - 70 cm. For the front sides, mark the length in place, placing the blanks against the right bed post and the stairs. The guardrail should end where the right edge of the step is located. Finally, the backboard is equal to the full length of the bed minus two vertical profiles (1.88–2x0.04=1.88–0.08=1.8 m).
11. Screw all guards to general design on the top tier. The pitch between the sides is 0.15 m.
12. Arrange the flooring of the first and second sleeping place. To do this, first screw a piece with a 20x20 mm profile to the bottom of each horizontal bed from the inside, having previously trimmed it. The pieces supporting the plywood will rest on this part. They should be 0.66 m long. And screw them to the support beams.
13. Cut plywood the size of the bed and screw it to the main, strongest bed beams.
14. It also doesn’t hurt to fix the flooring on the supporting sections. At this stage, use small self-tapping screws. The bunk bed is ready.

It is also advisable to attach the entire structure to the wall of the room using the same corners. Otherwise, when the child starts to climb the steps, the product may tilt.

Typically, plywood is sold in standard sheets measuring 1.2 m x 1.4 m. Cutting it is simple: first, a piece is cut to a bed width of 0.8 m along the entire length of 1.4 m. Then it remains to cover approximately 0.5 m of the bed. Two rectangles of 0.4 m x 0.5 m each are sawn off from the remaining piece of plywood measuring 0.4 m x 1.4 m and the open space is covered with them.

You can already use the bed, but it is better to further decorate it in order to avoid the feeling that something is missing.

Decoration of the structure

First you need to coat the wood with varnish. It is better to use for this purpose matte finish, because glossy smacks of antiquity. You can use inexpensive stain instead of varnish. It emphasizes the structure of the wood well. The coating is applied with a simple brush.

Decor depends on the gender of the children

But in addition to painting, it would be a good idea to attach some kind of façade to the sides to match the color of the furniture occupying the children’s room. Any universal option will do. The dimensions of the facade should be such that all the sides are hidden behind this part. It’s best if you can choose a decorative laminated chipboard with rounding.

Don't forget that a children's bunk bed requires beautiful mattresses. They are, of course, not cheap. If such mattresses are unaffordable, you can purchase a simple version with cotton filling.

How to make a bunk bed with your own hands (option 2)

The second type of product is assembled from chipboards.This design will ultimately look more beautiful, but the costs and effort will increase noticeably.

Design description, drawing

The backs of such a bunk bed are made from solid parts. The same applies to sides and decking. Order these chipboards of the required size from a carpentry shop. They will be made there desired color and according to the required parameters, and also decorate all the ends of the slabs.

Now you need to decide on the sizes. Let the backs of the structure be 1.8 m high and 0.8 m wide (2 pieces each). The standard plate thickness is 16 mm. At the bottom it is necessary to provide supporting plastic pads, which are nailed with small nails.

Make the length of the bed equal to 1.8 m. This means that for the flooring, order two slabs measuring 0.8 m x 1.8 m. To strengthen the structure, you will also need supports for the flooring - long slabs in the form of boards measuring 0.2 m x 1.8 m in the amount of 4 pieces.

The sides will have similar dimensions. They will only be needed for the top tier. Dimensions of long facade parts (2 pieces) - 0.4 m x 1.8 m.

Draw a rough sketch.

Of course, the slabs do not have to be ordered perfectly rectangular. For beauty, you can provide different cutouts and curves. And below, if possible, there may be drawers.

As for the stairs, make it from the end. To do this, additionally order 5 steps made of chipboards. The first measures 0.8 m x 0.48 m, the second is 10 cm narrower. And so on: each one decreases by 10 cm. Let the right side of the stairs be the headboard of the bed. Order the left slab with dimensions of 0.8 m x 1.36 m, and provide for a bevel of the upper part.

List of required materials

So, you will need:

• chipboard board (16 mm thick) 1.8 m x 0.8 m - 4 pieces;
• sheets 1.8 m x 0.2 m - 4 pieces;
• sheets 1.8 m x 0.4 m - 2 pieces;
• 5 slabs for steps (the first one is 0.8 m x 0.48 m, each subsequent one is 10 cm shorter);
• side slab with bevel 0.8 m x 1.36 m;
• furniture hexagon screws - about 50 pieces.

The latter are used to fasten the structure. They are also called Euroscrews.

List of required tools

You will need a few tools:

• roulette;
• electric drill with a drill with a diameter of 4.5 mm;
• hex key for Euroscrew;
• screwdriver

Sooner or later, every young parent is faced with the problem of purchasing a child's sleep place. A high-quality wooden bed is quite expensive. However, if you get creative and put in enough effort, you can end up with a comfortable sleeping place for your baby. is not something complicated, it is quite possible to make it using ready-made blueprints And photo in the Internet. If you have the tools, some skills and desire, then creating a designer crib with your own hands is a matter of time. Having selected the material, you can cut out the required parts for a fee. It is easy to purchase various plywood, boards, laminated chipboard, ready-made bars and fasteners. The main thing is to take your time and remember that you are working for quality.

It must be remembered that low-quality components cannot be used for a baby crib. They must consist of environmentally friendly materials.

When you decide to start making a baby crib with your own hands, you need to decide on its type:

1. Baby crib rocking chair.
2. An original crib, for example, a car crib.

Then prepare necessary tool. Such as: screwdriver, hammer, screwdrivers, jigsaw, pliers, measuring tool and level.

Well, the main thing is to prepare the materials from which, in fact, the crib will be assembled. That is, boards, plywood, blocks of wood. It is important to select high-quality fasteners, due to which all furniture elements are fixed.

The crib must be made from natural materials, and it’s worth choosing high-quality fasteners

When choosing a material, first of all, it is worth considering that a wooden bed is an excellent place where you can gain strength before tomorrow. High-quality wood is natural, does not cause allergic reactions, does not emit harmful substances with direct sunlight, looks good and is durable. According to most experts, the optimal crib should be made from natural wood.

The most popular type is the classic baby crib, which looks like this:

To make this you need:

• Sides 85.4 x 134.0 cm – 2 pcs.;
• Side strips (top) 6.0 x 134.0 cm – 2 pcs.;
• Headboard and footboard part of the crib () 71.2 x 71.1 cm – 2 pcs.;
• Bed bottom 130.5 x 71.1 cm – 1 piece;
• Bottom support (front and rear slats), block 3.2 x 3.2 x 60.0 cm – 2 pcs.;
• Bottom support (side bars), block 3.2 x 3.2 x 120.0 cm – 2 pcs.;
• Round wooden rods for side railing, diameter 1.2 cm, length 61.4 cm – 38 pcs.
• Screws size 4 x 45 mm

When all the details have been prepared and photos and drawings have been studied, you can start assembling the crib with your own hands:

1. First we make the sides of the crib. We take blanks for them and draw a line, retreating 20 cm from the bottom. The width of the side frame is 6 cm. Having drawn a line for the central part of the side, we proceed to cutting it out (see picture). This can be done, for example, with a jigsaw.
2. Next we start cutting out the legs. To do this, we make two marks at 15 cm and 11.5 cm and connect them smoothly, making a rounded corner. We also smoothly draw a rounded corner for the inside of the leg, stepping back the width of the leg by 6 cm. Using this principle, we cut out the remaining three legs.
3. Then, as in the figure below, we mark the position of the first rod of our sidewall. To do this, step back 4.96 cm from the side and mark the edge of the hole of the rod, then step back 1.2 cm (that is, the width of the rod). Then we retreat again 4.96 cm and repeat the steps above along the entire lower frame of the crib. We get 19 equally distributed rods.
4. Similarly, we measure and drill the same holes for the rods in the upper strips of the side panels.
5. We fill these holes well with regular PVA glue and insert our wooden fencing rods into them. They should fit tightly. Place the sides on a flat surface until completely dry. Using a measuring tool such as a square, straighten the rods again and leave overnight. It's better to have more glue. Excess glue that is squeezed out of the holes can then be easily removed with a slightly dampened cloth.
6. Similarly, pour glue into the holes of the upper side strips and install them in place. Do not forget to constantly level the structure, wait for the glue to dry.
   The result was two finished sides of the future children's bed.
7. We fasten the remaining panels (future headboard and footboard) to these sides with screws. The screws must be recessed and their heads cannot be felt. We don’t worry about these holes; later they will be filled and sanded.
8. To prevent the bottom from collapsing, we install prepared planks to support it. We fix them with screws (distance 1.0 cm from the bottom of our frames).
9. The last step is to insert the remaining part, which will be the bottom of the future crib.

Important: To add stability, you can add a pair of crossbars between the legs of the crib, as shown below:

It is better to sand the elements of the crib

Use high quality, non-toxic materials, preferably water-based.

Getting a beautiful bed for your baby is not difficult if you do everything conscientiously and with love.

Don't neglect high-quality finishing, otherwise the crib will look like a failed experiment. However, if you put in the proper effort, you will end up with a wonderful, exclusive product.

It is also necessary to think about the decoration of the crib.

The crib can be on wheels

Making an interesting rocking bed with your own hands is a little more difficult. The parts for it are also made from plywood sheets. The wooden rods that will be the balusters are made independently from plywood by gluing two parts (blanks). To assemble one with your own hands, prepare:

• front and back parts (backs) 82.8x62.0x1.8 cm - 2 pcs.;
• shelf – 90.0x45.0x1.8 cm;
• side wall – 90.0x27.0x1.8 cm;
• handrails 90.0x0.4x1.8 cm – 2 pcs.;
• supports (bars) 6.0x1.8x1.8 cm - 2 pcs.;
• runners 76.0x8.0x1.5 cm – 4 pcs.;
• stoppers 19.0x7.0x1.5 cm – 4 pcs.;
• lining for walls (if desired) 68.0x47.0x1.5 cm - 2 parts;
• side wall overlay (if desired) 80.0x9.0x1.5 cm;
• base – 90.0x47.0x1.5 cm;
• elements for rods (balusters) 24.0x2.5x0.4 cm – 40 parts

Assembly diagram for a baby crib - rocking chair

First you need to draw all the necessary details on plywood and carefully cut them out. Then start making rods that will serve as balusters. To do this, glue two parts together, giving them a slight bend, and clamp them with clamps. After drying, the parts will straighten slightly. This is not a big deal, however, it must be taken into account for the following rods. Sand well and round the edges. This must be done very efficiently and carefully with the upper edges of the panels and handrails so that the grown-up baby does not damage his hands. This can be easily done with a milling machine. Next, make holes for fasteners (dowels) in the sides. For the best effect, it is advisable to take a special drill with a limiter (stop).

Drawing of a rocking chair - cradle

Make grooves in the handrails and sides so that baluster rods can be inserted. Fill the grooves with PVA glue and insert the rods into them (between the handrails and side rails). Smooth all elements well by wiping them sandpaper. Give the rods a slight bend when gluing, this will visually decorate the crib. After assembly, the inside of the fence should have the curved side of the rods (balusters).

A wooden rocking crib will help your child calm down and fall asleep faster.

Add two plywood stops to the support rails to prevent the structure from tipping over when rocking. Make them from plywood 1.5 cm thick. Screw the resulting parts with self-tapping screws, and secure the front and back walls with dowels and glue with runners. Prime the entire surface. Wait until the structure dries and paint all the details, preferably water-based paint. Do not use varnishes or oil paints, their smell does not disappear for a long time and negatively affects the child’s health.

Crib machine

These are used for older children who have already outgrown their first cribs. It’s easy to make it yourself; there are many photos and drawings on the Internet that can be decorated with any additional elements. Everything is limited only by your imagination. As with the above options, first decide on a sketch. Draw your child’s “car” from different angles.

Baby cot - machine

We choose the material. Most often, this type of furniture is made from chipboard or MDF sheets. In addition, you need to choose the material for the bottom, timber for support and self-tapping screws. Also, furniture of this size is often installed on casters in order to move it around the room without any problems. First done durable frame, because the child will most likely actively play on it. Then decorative elements are attached.

Manufacturing depends on individual design, make a car crib with your own hands based on ready-made drawings, studying a photo of a “car” suitable for your child. Whatever crib you decide to make with your own hands, your child will appreciate your efforts and love you even more. Good luck in your work!

Baby cot - bus

DIY crib machine

DIY crib 42 photos and drawings:

The appearance of the baby - happy event. It is necessary to prepare for his birth in advance and make furniture. You can make a modern and functional crib with your own hands if you wish, and put your love, warmth and soul into it. With the current variety of materials and tools, this is not at all difficult to accomplish. Its main advantage is that it is absolutely harmless to the baby.

How to make a baby crib with your own hands?

Let's look at the process of making an original baby crib with your own hands pendulum mechanism on bearings and with a box for linen. This design of the rocking chair will never tip over, which is important for the safety of the child. The sides of the crib should be different heights. A convenient opening front side is needed for easy placement of the baby. A DIY rocking crib will be used for rocking a newborn baby and will help solve the problem of sleep. The length and width of the sleeping area can be determined based on the size of the mattress.

To make it yourself, you will need:

Master class on making a crib

1. The process of making a crib begins with the backs. To do this, take four bars, you need to make markings for the crossbars on them. The distance between the vertical poles should be 110-120 mm.
2. The grooves can be made with a router 1 cm deep; if you don’t have one, a chisel will do. The crossbars are driven into the grooves using PVA glue.
3. Perches are glued into the headboards of the bed. The headboards of the bed are assembled entirely, strictly at right angles.

4. The headboards of the bed are connected to the sides using self-tapping screws.
5. The front part of the crib will consist of two parts and have a low side so that it is convenient to approach the baby. Therefore, the perches are used shorter than the previous ones. The upper part of the side part is fixed to the lower part on the canopies, with the help of which it will open. Additionally, you need to install fixing bolts.

6. For each leg we make a bar with a through recess equal to the bearing, and install the bearing. They are attached with self-tapping screws.
7. Installed under the crib wooden box. Planks are attached to it from the outside. The slats connect the box to the legs of the bed. Installing the crib legs on bearings provides a rocking effect. Once the crib is completely assembled, you need to start painting. All parts of the crib, except the base, are coated with a triple layer of varnish. After each layer, you need to let the varnish dry and sand well, layer by layer.
8. The slats are used to make crossbars for the bed frame, onto which the base for the mattress is covered and secured. An additional drawer for things is built into the lower box under the base. The crib is ready. The crib is decorated with a transparent canopy on top.

A rocking bed is essential for little ones. Over time, such a crib can be easily transformed into a regular bed with legs when the baby grows up a little.

A cozy baby crib for a newborn, made by yourself, durable and reliable, will be the key to his comfortable sleep and harmonious development.

Do it yourself? - Is quite real! You don't have to be a furniture maker to do this. Although the ability to hold an instrument in your hands will, of course, come in handy. The ability to clearly imagine the end result, draw up a diagram and make simple geometric calculations will also be useful.

The main question in this matter is “why?”

Why make your own furniture?

Mass production does not always satisfy everyone with its products. And this causes displeasure for some, while giving others an incentive for creativity.

What does he get? House master as a result of the hassle hand-made furniture?

1. Savings. Every job costs money. Doing this work eliminates the need to pay for it.
2. Complete freedom in planning the space and creating functional furniture.
3. Maximum compliance with your needs. Independent production of furniture allows you to build a furniture complex that meets your own needs and ideas about comfort and functionality.
4. The joy of shaping your own living space. This is where we move away from rational motives and we find ourselves in the realm of creativity.

Concept and design

Creating a crib begins with answering a number of questions:

• What age do you need a bed for?
• Does the bed need to be transformable for different ages?
• How many beds do you need?
• Do you need a stationary or folding design?
• Will it be just a bed or a complex with various functions?

The dimensions of the future product, preferences for materials and many other design decisions depend on the answers to these questions.

For the little ones

A newborn bed should provide safety for the baby and comfort for its mother. There are basically two options here:

• a separate crib with sides and a bed at least 500-600 mm high from the floor;
• a side bed, the bed of which is located at the same height as the mother’s bed, and the sides limit it only on three sides.

An additional bed should not be made longer than 800-1000 mm, but a separate bed should have a length of 1200-1400 mm and a removable side.

The child will be comfortable in it until he is 3 years old, and maybe longer. You should immediately provide for the possibility of rearranging the bed so that you can lower it lower when the baby grows up.

Bed for growth

Another interesting option for a “growth” design is a transforming bed. This is the implementation of an idea universal furniture, which transforms depending on needs.

The crib has a modular design, and its purpose can be changed by rearranging the modules. In its original layout, it is adapted for a newborn and, in addition to a place for the child, contains a changing table and drawers for storing linen and other useful things.

As the baby grows, it becomes cramped in the “nest”, which is only about 800 mm long. Then the changing table is removed from the lower body and becomes a separate cabinet. The bed for the newborn is also removable, it can be used in play area. And the remaining structure is a new version of the bed, which will last up to 5-7 years.

The design of the transformer is clear from the diagram below.

Note! Here and below, dimensions are indicated only in millimeters. This may seem inconvenient and unusual, but the use of millimeters eliminates fractional numbers that are not immediately grasped by the eye, take longer to pronounce and are more difficult to perceive by ear. Measure in millimeters to reduce the chance of error!

Not just a bed

In the very simple design a bed is simply a bed with sides, mounted on legs or other supports. Here is a drawing of a classic chipboard design.

To implement it in the material, you only need to cut out the parts required sizes and connect them correctly. It's not difficult, especially if you use the tips given later in this article.

But a children's bed should not perform only a utilitarian function. You can and should make interesting furniture for children. Even for a simple thing, a small person is able to come up with a dozen uses that are not provided for by its design. It is worth entering the world of children's fantasy and making the child's room a field for games and exploration.

Bed-toy

The bed can take any shape. Only the plane of the bed and the safety of the furniture remain mandatory. A good example interesting furniture a bed-car can serve.

The simplicity of its design is evident from the given frame diagram.

In this design, elastic plywood slats are used as a base for the mattress, which can be purchased from companies selling furniture components. But you can do without them by laying a rigid bed made of chipboard or plywood 10 mm thick on the support rails.

Bright drawings on panels are quite easy to make. To do this you need:

• find a suitable image in electronic form;
• find a printing or advertising company that will customize the drawing to suit required dimensions, print it on vinyl film and cut out the outlines;
• apply film to the workpieces, mark the contours, cut out the parts and process their edges;
• stick the film.

The same approach can be applied to other furniture elements, for example, cabinet fronts. For this you can use full-color printing, and one-two-three-color applications from self-adhesive films different shades.

Composition of functions: a bed as part of a household, work or play complex

A child will definitely like a non-boring bed with an interesting shape. This effect is achieved by furniture-toys, furniture-fairy tales. But you can turn to the idea of ​​a transformer and combine the functions of a bed and other furniture. This will make the bed interesting and save space, which can never be too much in a child's room.

Functional content is determined by the age of the child and his occupation. The bed can and should be combined with a wardrobe, drawers for toys, shelves for books, computer desk or a place to study. In this case, the separation of functions into different levels, as well as folding elements and movable modules, is actively used.

And it even looks solid!

This loft bed combines several functions and, with its originality, creates conditions for the comprehensive development of the child.

A seemingly complex design will become simpler and clearer if you present it in the form of a drawing or diagram.

Here is a simplified version, without the side ladder module. Both the picture and the drawing show the back wall, which serves as a support for the bed and table, and also, which is very important, as a longitudinal stiffener.

Bunk and other “multi-bed” options

If there are two or more children in a family, then it makes sense to combine their sleeping places in one complex. The most obvious and familiar solution is a bunk bed. When creating such a bed, easy access to the second tier is ensured. For this purpose, stairs are made or other solutions are used.

In this drawing of a bunk bed made of chipboard, you can clearly see that all the parts are connected in such a way that they form rigid box-like structures. The side posts provide rigidity in the transverse direction, the rear wall provides rigidity in the longitudinal direction, and the stock determines the rectangularity of the structure in plan.

The arrangement of parts in three planes is fundamental important point when designing furniture from sheet materials.

By following this simple rule, you can give free rein to your imagination and create very interesting and reliable furniture.

All these structures can be made from wood, or from more convenient slab and sheet materials made from wood.

A little about materials

Modern furniture is overwhelmingly made from panel materials, which are made from wood chips and small fibers.

Chipboard is the basis of furniture

The main construction material used for furniture is laminated particle board (laminated particle board), often referred to simply as chipboard. Products made from it do not require any additional processing and virtually no maintenance. The surface decor is set at the production stage of the slab, and the assortment allows you to choose from several dozen options.

Chipboard is made from small wood shavings using urea-formaldehyde resins, which is why the material evokes a wary attitude. But those produced today furniture boards approved for use in residential premises and children's institutions. Most of them have an emission class of E1, and some, such as the Egger stove, have an E0. They are reasonably considered harmless.

Chipboard is a fairly plastic material. Self-tapping screws with a diameter of 3-4.5 mm are screwed into the slab without pre-drilling, and when installing fasteners, door hinges and other fittings, correction of the fastening points is allowed, although this is undesirable, since it reduces the holding capacity of the screw.

When creating structures from chipboard, it should be borne in mind that even a seemingly strong stiffener made from a 50-60 mm high plank can, under load, “crawl” over time and bend in an arc, which at first glance seems impossible. Any load-bearing elements that work in bending must have a cross-section in the bending direction of at least 100 mm.

Fiberboard - auxiliary material

Fiberboard is a wood-fiber board. Despite the word “plate” in the name, it is still a flexible sheet, which most often has a thickness of 3.2 mm. Laminated fiberboard is used for furniture. It is used as the back wall of cabinets, cabinets and as the bottom of drawers. Fiberboard serves as a “rear” membrane and performs an important function - it gives rigidity to box-shaped structures, which without it would not be able to maintain their shape.

Facades and other “special” elements

Details required special requirements in terms of design and aesthetics, they are made of finely divided Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF). This board has a higher density and strength than chipboard. Its facade parts are decorated with figured milling, and it is covered with vinyl film or painting. Cabinet doors, end and side (front) panels of beds, and countertops are made from it.

Tree

Natural wood is a material that in recent decades has acquired an almost magical aura of “environmental friendliness”. There is no doubt that wood is indeed more pleasant to the touch, smell, and taste than any of the composites. However, when comparing it with other materials, it should be taken into account that wooden furniture parts are treated with stains, antiseptics, and varnishes. Adhesives are used in their manufacture and assembly of products. That is, the naturalness is not so absolute; this material is much more complex to work with, and more capricious to use than the same chipboard. And yet, wood is used in modern furniture production. These are mainly products and structures that require high strength with a minimal cross-section of parts or special aesthetics. This:

• ladders, rungs and steps of ladders;
• load-bearing beams, racks of light structures;
• front parts - doors, shields, facade panels, handrails.

The most commonly used hardwoods are oak, beech, and ash. Less often - pine or alder. This choice is due to the fact that hard rocks hold up to grinding better and, if properly processed, do not create the danger of splinters. In addition, these rocks are less susceptible to warping when seasonal change humidity.

Features of furniture production and self-made furniture

Furniture production uses the principle of simple work with complex components. Chipboard or wooden beam, fittings and fasteners are manufactured at enterprises that have everything necessary for this and ensure low prices due to mass production.

To make high-quality furniture, it is not necessary to have complex equipment and production areas. All high-tech, but routine operations can be entrusted to those who specialize in this, and you can concentrate on creativity and on obtaining the final result.

Furniture manufacturing comes down to assembling products from finished parts and fittings. This is how small ones work furniture companies, and the lack of their own production capacity does not hinder them at all. The same can be done at home. To do this, it is enough to have the simplest household-grade power tool.

Let's start to act

Design and project

First you need to come up with a bed design and make a drawing. You should start with the overall dimensions and common types. Then the details are clarified step by step. Below is a sketch that you can already work with.

Here the dimensions are indicated in sufficient detail, on the basis of which the detailing is done. Unmarked dimensions are calculated based on the indicated dimensions and the thickness of the material. If any details are not clear from the general sketch, then additional drawings need to be made showing individual components or views in more detail.

For complex parts, such as the tabletop in this sketch, the overall dimensions, dimensions key elements, rounding radii.

The project must take into account the maximum possible dimensions of the parts, which are limited by the format of the chipboard sheet. As a rule, this is 2750x1830 mm minus 10‑20 mm for trimming edges. Please check with the company where you ordered the material and cut it into parts for specific restrictions.

The slab is cut on a special cutting machine, which ensures cutting accuracy and cleanliness. Better not try this hand tools. The savings achieved in this way do not justify the loss of time and deterioration in quality.

Detailing

After drawing up detailed drawings, detailing is done - a list of parts with their overall dimensions and indicating additional processing. Below is a detail fragment shown as an example.

№	Detail	Length	Width	Kolic	Rotate
1	Racks 1	1355	834	2	No
2	Racks 2	1360	830	2	No
3	Side	1822	296	2	Yes
4	Cabinet front	1500	396	2	No
5	Cabinet facade	550	396	1	No

The first is to indicate the size along the structure of the pattern on the chipboard. The second - across. The last column indicates whether the part can be rotated during cutting. For example, if you indicate “yes” in the “Cabinet front” line, then the pattern on one door may turn out to be vertical, and on the other - horizontal.

In addition, you need to indicate which sides of the parts are covered with edging tape. This is indicated by underlining the corresponding number. One underline - one side, two - both on parallel edges. Underlining two numbers means edging the edges in both dimensions.

Important! When determining dimensions, you need to take into account the thickness of the chipboard. Usually it is 16 or 18 mm. When choosing the color of a material, you need to immediately clarify in what thickness it is available. When determining the dimensions of facades, use the rules below.

• For overhead facades that are applied to the ends of the cabinet or cabinet parts, the size is taken to be 4 millimeters smaller than the size of the module or the geometric calculated space for the facade.
• For internal facades that enter the opening, the size is taken to be 5-6 millimeters smaller sizes opening on each side. For large parts, it is necessary to provide gaps around the entire perimeter of at least 3 mm.
• Facades drawers are calculated so that there is a gap of 3 mm between them.
• If it is planned to cover the ends with edge tape with a thickness of more than 0.5 mm, then it is taken into account when calculating the dimensions of the parts.

Based on the detailing table, the company selling chipboards will draw up a cut map and determine required quantity sheets, cut them into parts and line the ends with edge tape.

The processing of complex parts must be indicated separately, in the form of sketches indicating the places of rounding and their radii. If the shape is not described only by dimensions and radii, then the contours can be set using a coordinate grid or you can independently cut out a template from fiberboard and send it to work.

However, if you have a jigsaw and a belt sander at home, you can make complex parts yourself. For a jigsaw, you need to use a carbide file “tooth up”, make the cut at a distance of 3-5 mm from the finishing contour, and then remove excess material with a belt sander. When processing complex parts yourself, you will have to take them separately to edging or glue the ends yourself.

Important! When grinding ends of complex shapes yourself, you must ensure their perpendicularity. Otherwise, when pasting edge tape will not lie along its entire length, but will go to the side.

When designing curved parts for an edge PVC thick 2 mm, it is necessary to provide external roundings with a radius of at least 50 mm, and internal roundings - no less than what the tool used can handle. For a hand grinder this is usually at least 300 mm.

At home, a plastic PVC edge with a thickness of 0.4-0.5 mm is glued with Nairit contact glue or similar. The protruding edges are carefully cut off with a sharp knife, and the resulting corner is smoothed with thin sandpaper and polished with felt.

The melamine “paper” edge is easier to glue. It is smoothed with a hot iron and additionally pressed with a flat bar with a piece of felt or other dense fabric.

It is better to paste over the edges of parts that often experience increased loads, such as the edge of a table top, steps of a staircase, or the top edge of the side. plastic tape 2 mm thick. This is done only on a special machine using thermoplastic glue, and the edges are processed with a router.

Assembly

When assembling furniture from chipboard, the main operation is to fix the end of one part to the face of another with a through screw - a confirmat. This is not the only type of fastener, but it is the easiest to use and is not too demanding on the accuracy and qualifications of the assembler.

A hole is drilled for the confirmation using a special confirmation drill with working part 4.5‑5 mm.

Without the skill, you should not try to drill a channel in one pass. It is better to first make a narrow hole in the face, and then, pressing the end of another part, finish drilling and immediately install the fastener.

Important! Marking of installation locations for parts and fastening points is carried out from one edge. You cannot mark some of the points on one side, and the other part from the opposite edge of the part. A slight inaccuracy in cutting and the error of the tape measure will certainly produce a noticeable error. Select the reference planes from which all measurements will be taken on all parts. A theoretical floor is recommended - the lower edge of the racks and the plane of the rear wall - the rear ends of the parts.

Where it is inconvenient to place confirmations or they spoil the view, for example on a tabletop, use corners.

The cabinet shelves are removable and placed on shelf holders in the form of pins with a diameter of 5 mm. Blind holes with a diameter of 4.8 mm are drilled under them in the side walls. One or two cabinet shelves are rigidly attached to strengthen the side walls. Usually these are shelves on which two facades converge, located one above the other.

After assembling the modules, before installing the fiberboard back walls on them, you must check the equality of the diagonals. The size of the rear wall is taken to be 5-6 mm smaller than the dimensions of the module.

Manufacturing and installation of drawers

Guides are used for drawers different types. Here we will consider installation on roller guides.

The boxes are made of chipboard, and their bottom is made of fiberboard. The dimensions are determined by the size of the section where they are installed, the length of the guides and the number of drawers.

• The length is taken equal to the length of the guides used or greater, within 50 mm. But in any case, at least 3-5 mm less than the depth of the section (cabinet).
• The width should be 25 mm less than the internal width of the cabinet.
• The height of the drawers must leave at least 20 mm of free space above the edge of the side panel (between the side panel and the top drawer, between the side panel and the table top or mounting plate).

Important! When assembling the boxes, you need to make sure that they are not driven by a “screw”, and when installing the bottom, carefully control the equality of the diagonals.

It is more convenient to sew the guides onto the side walls of the module before assembling it. The lowest guide is attached no closer than 20 mm from the floor of the cabinet (along the axis of the fasteners). Each next one is with a step equal to the step of the facades, that is, the height of the facade plus the gap.

Installation of drawer fronts

Drawer fronts are installed only after all the guides have been installed, the module has been assembled, the drawers are installed, they move easily and do not “dance.”

Important! Be sure to number the boxes. Don't count on them being interchangeable! The number can be placed on the bottom bottom.

Installation of facades is carried out sequentially from bottom to top. For ease of work, all drawers except the bottom one are removed, and work begins from there.

• Holes for handle screws with a diameter of 4 mm are drilled in the facades.
• The front is set to the calculated position and pressed against the front wall of the box. You can hold the facade with your hand, but it is better to use light clamps.
• Through the holes for the handle screws, the front is attached to the drawer with two 4×30 self-tapping screws. After this, the clamps are removed and the correct position of the facade is checked. If necessary, you can loosen the screws half a turn and adjust the part.
• The exposed front is finally secured with four 4×30 self-tapping screws from inside the drawer. After this, you need to remove the temporary fasteners, drill through the holes for the handle screws and install the handle with long screws. “Native” ones are designed for a thickness of up to 18 mm and are not suitable in this case.

The work of setting up the façade is simplified if you use support liners underneath it that correspond to the width of the gap.

Before final fixing the façade, it is better to drill holes at the fastening points with a diameter of 2 mm and a depth of no more than the thickness of the chipboard. On the surface you need to carefully use a countersink or drill to make a countersink for the screw head.

Installation of swing facades

Hinged facades (doors) are installed on special hinges.

The furniture industry produces a large number of types of loops. The figure below shows three types of hinges, differing in the position of the facade. They all have the same base angle - 90 degrees.

There are hinges designed for facades located at angles of 0, 45, 135 degrees, and their variety is not limited to this. In addition, the hinges vary in opening angle. The standard is 90 degrees, but there are also 110 and 175.

All of them are mounted according to the same scheme:

• In the rear plane of the facade, at a distance of 21-22 mm from the edge, a recess is drilled for the hinge cup.
• The loop is attached to the facade.
• On the wall where the door will be attached, vertical markings are made at a distance of 37 mm from the inner edge of the facade in the closed position.
• The door is placed in its place and the hinge plates are fastened with self-tapping screws according to the markings.

The hinges should be located at a distance of 70-120 mm from the top and bottom edges of the facade. When the door height is more than 900 mm, 3 hinges are installed, when the door height is more than 1500 - four.

The video below demonstrates the "stick and fasten" installation method. It does not require marking for the hinge keepers on the cabinet wall and works even if the hinges have a non-standard mounting size.

You just need to remember to set the adjustments of all hinges to the middle position before installation, and when installing, keep the facade 0.5-1 mm above the calculated level. This difference does not need to be measured. It is easily determined by touch. You just need to keep your fingers at the junction of the lower edge of the facade and the furniture body.

Important! When distributing hinges along the height of the door, make sure that they do not rest on the shelves.

To deepen the hinge cup, you will need an end mill - a Forstner drill with a diameter of 35 mm. The drill must have carbide cutters and a short “nose”. This tool will make a straight hole. required depth and will not spoil the front side of the facade.

About fasteners

The main fasteners during assembly are self-tapping screws. To attach hinges, guides and other fittings, use 4x16 galvanized self-tapping screws. If increased strength is required, the diameter can be increased to 4.5 mm. In some cases, the head of a 4 mm self-tapping screw is too big and looks ugly. Where essential, use 3.5x16 self-tapping screws.

To fasten fittings with fastening plates 4 mm thick or more, you can use self-tapping screws 20 mm long. But you must always be careful not to spoil outside details.

To attach two overlapping parts, as in the case of drawer fronts, feel free to use 4x30 self-tapping screws. They can be used to sew individual sections together, sew on reinforcement strips, etc.

To fasten fiberboard, you can use nails or self-tapping screws with a diameter of 3 mm.

For confident work with galvanized screws, use a screwdriver with a magnetic attachment and PZ bits. The magnet in the attachment should hold the screw well on the bit. To test, lower the bat holder into a can of 4x16 screws. If one or two screws hang on the bit, the holder is bad. Get one that can hold at least four pieces.

About accessories

For making furniture there is great amount accessories. Before making a project, familiarize yourself with the possibilities that the fittings provide. These can be rollers for mobile cabinets, swivel stands for folding tables, pull-out baskets and much more.

In fact, fittings are the “soul” of furniture. It determines its convenience and functionality. Therefore, do not hesitate to pester hardware sellers with requests to show, explain, and offer more.

Baby crib: diagram, photo, dimensions. How to make a baby crib with your own hands.

The question of how to make a crib yourself usually arises among future parents waiting for a new addition to the family. Of course, you can buy a crib for a baby in a store, but in fact you can make it yourself from natural wood and it will be no worse than the purchased version. After all, for the future dad, a hand-made crib will also be a source of pride.

We drill holes in the mattress frame with a diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw so that the screw is screwed tightly into the wood. We tighten the screws with a polyhedron wrench.

Then we fasten the side panels in the same way; we will need 8 screws, 4 screws per side panel.

A little effort and the crib for a newborn is ready, the crib does not need to be painted or varnished because when the child grows up a little and starts teething, he will inevitably try to gnaw the sides of the crib, so varnish and paint will not the best option for covering a baby crib.