How to care for citrus fruits. Secrets of growing different citrus fruits at home
Growing citrus indoor plants at home is an interesting activity, but far from easy. Therefore, those who believe that it will be enough to plant a seed in the ground and that’s it – you don’t have to buy lemons for tea anymore – are greatly mistaken. Without special knowledge, if indoor citrus plants produce their first harvest, it will not be earlier than in twenty years.
But if you know some of the nuances and grow it correctly, following all the rules, you will be able to enjoy the fruits much faster. But even here it is important not to make a mistake in choosing a variety. Only those citrus indoor plants that have been grafted onto seedlings of orange, lemon, grapefruit or kumquat are suitable for growing on a windowsill. Those crops that were grown from cuttings cut from fruit-bearing trees also performed well.
Difficulties in growing domestic citrus plants
It would seem that it would be simpler: you need to go to a flower shop and buy a pot in which a flowering or already bearing fruit grows - a “golden orange”, a Meyer lemon, which is not very difficult to care for at home, or a tangerine. The tree just needs to be brought home, placed on the windowsill in right place and start watering. But this is not at all true, since growing a lemon or tangerine at home is really difficult, moreover, this process is somewhat different from caring for ordinary specimens.
Those plants that are sold in flower shops today most often end up on the shelves from abroad, mainly from Holland. There, from the first day, they are kept in ideal conditions: the optimal temperature for growth is maintained, high humidity is maintained, additional lighting is provided, and fertilizers for citrus indoor plants are constantly added to the soil. When purchasing dwarf trees, there may be a dozen or more fruits by the time they are sold.
But once beautiful citrus indoor plants hit the windowsill, they immediately begin to face stressful conditions. In our houses, the illumination is much lower - several times, and the air (especially in winter) is incredibly dry compared to greenhouse air, and growth stimulants stop helping after a while.
Therefore, in conditions of a shortage of their internal resources, citrus indoor plants begin to devote all their efforts to preserving the fruits with which they were so abundantly strewn in the store. And as a result, the vast majority of purchased “pets” die. 
Species suitable for growing at home
Man has long known citrus fruits. People have been actively cultivating them for so long that it has become difficult to detect their wild ancestors in nature. Most often, citrus fruits are cultivated in open ground in countries with a tropical or subtropical climate. And it is from there that their fruits are supplied to store shelves in all corners of the planet.
A novice plant grower who cannot devote too much attention and time to a pet growing on his windowsill needs to choose varieties of indoor citrus plants that are easier to care for. If we talk about subspecies for small apartment, then it is preferable for beginners to grow lemon, tangerine and trifoliate, since their growth is easier to control. In turn, oranges, grapefruits or pomelo, which are characterized by large sizes, after a couple of decades turn into a rather bulky tree.
As for exotic varieties, today a close relative of the mandarin is quite common - the citrus kumquat nagami, as well as calamondin. Speaking about amazing varieties, we must definitely mention Buddha’s Hand.
Cuttings
The most convenient option for those who decide to grow a citrus crop on their own would, of course, be a young plant purchased in a specialized store. But a purchased tree does not always take root in the house for many reasons. However, if, after all, the crop has migrated from the store to the apartment, you need to contact the seller and get a recommendation from him for adapting the citrus to the new conditions.
First, the plant needs to be inspected. If there are fruits on it, you will have to pick them off. The citrus should be left in a store pot for seven to ten days, and only then transplanted into a new one.
Citrus trees grown from material obtained by cuttings take root best at home. Of course, for beginners who have little idea how to grow a tangerine, lemon, etc., it will be difficult to propagate the plant correctly, but for those who have had citrus growing at home for many years, it is quite easy to do this.
The shoot for the cutting should be cut from a well-developed and healthy citrus tree. Length planting material should be between ten and twelve centimeters. It must have at least three buds. It is not recommended to use both too young and quite old shoots with dense wood.
The best time April is considered the month for taking cuttings. Rooting of planting material can be done in a glass of water or in soil consisting of earth and sand. In the latter case, the cutting should be covered, for example, plastic bottle. The roots will appear in about twenty days. After this, the rooted cuttings can be planted in a permanent pot.
Planting material - seeds
You can often hear that a seed planted in the ground eventually turns into a luxurious citrus tree. But, even though growing a tangerine or lemon from seeds is the most accessible way for hobbyists to propagate this type of plant, the result is often unpredictable.
As a result, you can get a crop whose fruits will be much smaller than the parent form, or you can grow a new excellent pet. Judging by reviews, the use of seeds taken from fruits as planting material often leads to a lack of flowering in such seedlings.
The seedling begins to sprout in about a month and a half, and it should be replanted at the stage of appearance of five leaves.
How to grow tangerine
After the juicy fruits of this citrus purchased in the store are eaten, you can use the remaining seeds as planting material. For the greatest likelihood of success of the event, it is better to have more seeds, since definitely not all will germinate. Therefore, to obtain seedlings you need to take a dozen seeds.
The planting material is placed in gauze for several days and slightly moistened. This is necessary so that the seeds, when swollen, “hatch.”
Mandarins can be grown at home in special citrus soil purchased at a flower shop. Although, in principle, almost any light soil is suitable for this crop. For example, in equal proportions of turf and leaf ground, to which compost and rotted manure humus will be added, the tangerine will be very comfortable. Do not make soil based on peat. We must not forget about the need for drainage. Quite a long time must pass before the first shoots appear. The sprouts become noticeable only after two to three weeks, and sometimes even after a month.
Mandarin is a tree that grows quite slowly at home, and it sometimes stops its growth. Therefore, you should not lose hope and enthusiasm, because if this citrus is provided with all the necessary conditions, it will grow into a very beautiful tree.
Tangerine care
According to agronomists, tangerine is a very unpretentious tree to maintain, not only among citrus fruits, but also many other plants, however, compliance certain rules when leaving, he still demands. The most important condition for him is abundance sunlight. Mandarin requires intense lighting up to twelve hours a day all year round.
Watering and replanting
Mandarin is no less sensitive to humidity. In the summer months, it should be watered abundantly without flooding, while in winter the water supply should be reduced, periodically making sure that the soil does not dry out. In addition, you need to spray the leaves daily, using filtered or boiled clean water for this purpose. You can compensate for dry air by placing a small decorative plant next to the tangerine. indoor fountain. As the tree grows, it periodically needs to be replanted into larger pots. It is best to move in early spring. In this case, the new pot should have a diameter three to five centimeters larger than the previous one.
Transplant tangerine tree This is done by transshipment, in which case it is necessary to preserve the old earthen ball as much as possible, so as not to accidentally harm the root system of the plant. For the first time, flowering plants need to adjust the number of ovaries. In the first year, two or three fruits are left, in the second - seven or eight, and then about ten.
How to grow an orange tree
Caring for this type of citrus crop at home is not very different from the conditions for growing tangerines. Both a newly acquired tree and one that has been growing in the house for many years must be replanted every year. The best time for this is spring, when the plant is just getting ready to expend energy on growth. For young crops prerequisite for normal existence are regular watering and spraying.
Bloom
An orange tree, caring for which at home is not very difficult, will produce ovaries if the crown is correctly formed. This plant blooms and bears fruit on branches no lower than the fifth order, so you should not expect fruit to appear earlier than in five years. The crown is formed quite simply. When the branches reach a length of ten to fifteen centimeters, they are pinched. Soon new shoots begin to emerge from the side buds, which should also be shortened. As a result, only after five years you can get an orange tree with many short shoots.
At the same time, the room should be cool: 17-20 degrees. At higher temperatures, the fruits do not set, and the plant itself becomes sick or is affected by pests.
Indoor lemons
Of all the varieties, Pavlovsky is considered the most unpretentious. This type of lemon feels good even on north-eastern or north-western window sills; it is comfortable in relatively dry air and with rare fertilizing.
The Panderosa variety is almost as unpretentious, but it requires more light. Is it true, this type lemon has a special “syndrome” that is found only in it: it produces too many flowers to the detriment of the growth of green mass. Therefore, excess buds must be constantly plucked off.
Meyer lemon is a little less common, caring for it at home requires following certain rules: if they are not followed, it grows very slowly. However, flower growers, even with little experience, can simply place the pot on a bright windowsill, feed the plant from time to time, and, if necessary, spray it.
For exotic lovers
Citrus fruits in our understanding are lemon, orange, tangerine. But there are representatives of this type of plant that many of us have not even heard of. Of the tangerines, the Unshiu variety is interesting, which, in comparison with other representatives of the species, is relatively tolerant of poor lighting and is unpretentious, just like Pavlovsk lemon.
Other close relatives of citrus fruits are Kumquat and Calamondin. Fans of original indoor plants should definitely acquire these species.
Speaking about exotics, it is necessary to mention the Buddha’s Hand variety. This citrus is distinguished by the unusual appearance of its fruit: it resembles a lemon in color, and in appearance it resembles a fleshy brush on the hand. However, there is no edible pulp inside. Nevertheless, the fruit is so exotic that it is definitely worth growing at home.
Citrus indoor plants are not only a wonderful decoration for your home, but also useful plants, the fruits of which are rich in vitamins and have excellent taste. However, growing these Southern delicacies indoors requires special conditions, which differ for each variety of fruit. In this article we will look at how to grow citrus fruits in a pot in a city apartment.
Features of growing citrus fruits
Growing citrus fruits at home requires following the basic rules of caring for southern crops.
First of all, indoor citrus fruits need properly selected soil. For the base, you can take “floral” or “lemon” soil, diluting it with one part of foliage, sand and humus and three parts of turf. The structure of such soil will be low-acid, lumpy and loose, which will ensure free access of oxygen and moisture to the root system of the plant.
It is better to plant the plant in clay pots, which, due to their properties, are excellent heat conductors. In addition, such pots “breathe”, which will allow excess moisture to evaporate without lingering in the soil.
Citrus fruits in pots need to maintain an optimal humidity level - at least 65%. Fruits grown in humid air will turn out juicy and tasty, but if there is excess humidity they are at risk of rotting and falling off. Citrus trees at home need to be watered as the soil dries out: in winter this happens once a month, in summer - once every 1-2 weeks. On hot days and during heating season the plant needs regular spraying.
In an apartment, citrus fruits are most often placed on the windowsill, since this is where the plant will be provided with sufficient access to light and heat. If there is not enough lighting (for example, on the north or north-west side of the apartment), then it is necessary to provide the citrus trees with additional lighting using ordinary lamps with good heat dissipation. The temperature during the entire development period should not fall below +8 degrees. in winter temperature regime should be maintained around +12–15 degrees, and with the onset of spring - no lower than +18. Thanks to warm temperatures and high-quality lighting, the plant will begin to produce buds, the flowering of which will mark the proximity of fruiting.
Citrus fruits are propagated in late summer by separating the growing shoot from the main cutting. Such a shoot is carefully trimmed and stripped of the bark at the bottom, after which it is lowered into a previously prepared pot with nutritious soil, which is fertilized with moss, manure and a small amount of peat. The pot must have holes at the bottom, which are necessary for the drainage of excess water.
You can propagate by seeds and grafting, but for this it is better to familiarize yourself with the varietal characteristics of the plant, since even fertile trees can become inedible when propagated.
Citrus pruning is necessary not only to keep the plant healthy, but also to create a beautiful, round shape that can be created after the plant's second year. If the aesthetic side requires pruning shoots that are too long, then the vegetative side requires cutting shoots that are too thick. Shoots that grow inside the crown and interfere with the free development of buds due to their large number should also be removed. Pruning is done in the spring, all cuts are made at an angle.
If you are interested in how to grow a citrus tree yourself, then there are two options - using cuttings or from seeds at home. An apartment is ideal for this, since it can create conditions as close as possible to greenhouse conditions. Growing from cuttings is recognized as the best way, since this method will provide you with fruits in the coming years, while plants obtained from seeds begin to bear fruit in best case scenario not earlier than in 10 years.
Let's look at the varieties of citrus trees for apartments in more detail.
Lemon Tree
The lemon tree is an unpretentious and persistent type of citrus fruit that shows good fruiting and frost resistance. In addition, lemon gets along well in conditions of low light and moisture. However, it should be remembered that lemon Tree needs regular pruning and fertilizer, since a well-groomed tree will provide you with tasty and aromatic fruits.
Lemon is planted from seeds or cuttings. As already mentioned, plants from seeds will begin to bear fruit only after 10–15 years. For development, planting material of the Pavlovsky, Maikopsky, Novogruzinsky varieties is used - these are varieties specially created for home conditions.
Lemon care is simple: regular watering, feeding, trimming the crown. The only thing that may be difficult is the need to replant the lemon tree annually into a larger pot.
Potted tangerines
Mandarin, like lemon, requires regular spring replanting. In addition, it is more heat-loving and picky about humidity levels. It is better not to keep homemade tangerine at temperatures below +20 degrees, otherwise the plant will quickly die. However, a clear advantage of the species is its faster period of entry into fruiting - fruit development is possible after 5–6 years.
Mandarin, in addition to the requirements for lighting and moisture, also needs regular feeding and treatment for pests. Unfortunately, these plants are very susceptible to aphids, spider mites and mealybugs. Another problem with tangerine is the complexity of the flowering process, which often needs stimulation.
Orange
The orange tree in the apartment is not only a supplier of sweet fruits throughout the year, but also a source of wonderful aroma. However, the problem with orange is its poor tolerance to low temperatures, which will require constant temperature maintenance at 18–24 degrees. In addition, the orange requires direct sunlight for at least 2 hours a day, but no more than 3, which is difficult when choosing a growing location, since with all this the tree does not like disturbances and changes.
This type of citrus fruit needs regular watering and spraying, which should be carried out at least 2 times a week. The best varieties of domestic oranges are Gamlin, King Pear, Washington Navel and Adzharsky.
Calamondin
Calamondin is a citrus plant, appearance fruit resembling a tangerine. However, unlike the latter, calamondin is less demanding of light and moisture, and it is also very frost-resistant for a tropical plant. The tree reaches a height of 90 cm, and bears fruits all year round.
It is better to grow calamondin from cuttings or ready-made annual plants, bought in a store. Such a tree will begin to bear fruit within 2–3 years.
Despite the resistance to cold, the optimal growing temperature in summer is 21–25 degrees with a humidity of 70%, and in winter – 10–16 degrees with a humidity of 50%. This regime will ensure healthy and abundant fruiting for the plant.
Grapefruit
Homegrown grapefruit can be obtained from the Duncan and Marsh varieties. This type of citrus fruit resembles a lemon in terms of its maintenance conditions. However, grapefruit needs more abundant and frequent watering and maximum quantity sunlight.
Citron
Citron is a plant with very large yellow fruits (from 15 cm in length) and thick skin. For home grown Pavlovsky, Ruka Buddha and Mir varieties are suitable. It should be remembered that the size of the fruit needs high tree(1.5 m), which should be provided with plenty of sunlight and warm temperatures throughout the year.
Video “Growing citrus fruits at home”
From this video you will learn how to grow and care for lemon, tangerine, and lime at home.
Many representatives of citrus fruits, when favorable conditions are created, develop and grow well in various residential and administrative premises. The most popular of them is lemon; it can be found in apartments and offices, school classrooms and preschool institutions, in clinics and shops. Raising this popular favorite is not easy; you have to spend a lot of time and effort on its cultivation and care. Tangerine, orange, lime, pomelo, and grapefruit require the same attention. All of them have numerous beneficial qualities, one of which is the presence of biologically active substances in the leaves that can destroy pathogenic bacteria. Every lover of indoor plants can create all the necessary conditions for citrus fruits in a house or apartment.
Caring for citrus plants in the apartment
Location and lighting
The place where citrus indoor plants are grown should not be on the windowsill on the north side of the house, near a microwave oven, in drafts or near central heating radiators or other heating devices. Citrus fruits are shade-tolerant crops, therefore it is more favorable to place them on the eastern or western window, but it is also possible at a short distance from the southern window sill.
Temperature
Places where warm and cold air meet, as well as high air temperatures, are dangerous for plants. If at least one of these unfavorable moments is present, the leaves on citrus fruits begin to fall off.
In the period from November to February, when crops are in a dormant period, a special maintenance regime is introduced - low air temperature in the room, the absence of any water procedures (spraying and watering) and fertilizing.
Air humidity
The air humidity level should be high. It can be maintained with daily spraying; the water temperature should not be lower than 25 degrees. Citrus plants are painful when it comes to dry indoor air.
Watering
Not recommended for watering tap water, the presence of chlorine in it will negatively affect indoor pets. Irrigation water (with a temperature of 20-22 degrees) should be settled and slightly acidified. To do this, add a few drops of vinegar to it.
Choosing a pot
The ideal material for the pot is unglazed fired clay or wood. There must be drainage holes and a good drainage layer at the bottom of the flower container.
Soil composition requirements
Indoor citrus fruits will receive full development only in a special substrate for this type of plant. High quality soil mixture It is recommended to purchase only in specialized stores for flower growers so that its quality is not in doubt.
Feeding and fertilizers
Exotic citrus plants need to be fed regularly from February to November. Can be used organic fertilizers or mineral containing nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus.
Propagation of indoor citrus fruits
Lemons, tangerines, oranges and other exotics can be propagated by seeds, cuttings and grafting. Every gardener dreams of growing an exotic citrus plant from an ordinary seed, which will not only germinate and sprout, but will also eventually turn into a small tree and bear a lot of fruit.
By growing citrus fruits from seeds, from the very beginning of its life, the plant’s immunity is strengthened and its resistance to life increases. After all, a tender young culture has to adapt to unusual conditions of existence from its very first days. Usually with seed germination big problems does not occur, but flowering and fruiting will have to wait from 7 to 15 years. The taste of the fruit also leaves much to be desired. In order for the crop to bloom much earlier, you will need to be vaccinated. Usually experienced flower growers and gardeners recommend using cuttings of citrus fruits that are already bearing fruit as a scion.
When growing exotic crops indoors, it is necessary to take into account that plants can reach great heights. It is better to immediately purchase seeds of dwarf species and varieties for planting.
Propagation by seeds
It is recommended to plant freshly harvested seeds taken directly from the fruit. Planting depth - no more than 3 cm. The planting container should hold a volume of about 2 liters with the required drainage holes at the bottom. Drainage is poured at the bottom, and then a special substrate for citrus fruits. After planting, the pot must be covered glass jar or film to create greenhouse conditions, in which seedlings will appear much earlier. Depending on the variety and type of crop, seedlings will appear in the range from 7 days to 2 months. If several sprouts appear from one seed, then over time it is necessary to leave only one stronger and stronger plant.
Propagation by cuttings
For rooting, you need to take apical cuttings and plant them in damp river sand at a slight slope, covering the top with a cut plastic bottle made of transparent material. Favorable temperature for root formation is 20-25 degrees. The place should be well lit, but protected from direct sunlight. The first roots may appear in about a month, after which the plant is transplanted into a special soil mixture. When replanting, you must be careful with the root part, as it can easily be damaged.
This method is considered the most common because it allows you to preserve all the best quality characteristics mother plant. Flowering and fruiting occurs much earlier than with seed propagation.
Graft
Grafting can be carried out by budding or copulation. The scion and rootstock can be from different types citrus fruits. It is recommended to use lemon, orange or grapefruit for the rootstock.
Diseases and pests
Possible pests of citrus fruits as indoor crops are aphids, spider mites, scale insects, mealybugs, possible diseases– anthracnose, warts and gommosis. The emerging diseases are difficult to treat, so you need to try to prevent them. At the first signs of disease, it is recommended to “help” the plants. This help consists of urgently removing the affected leaves, buds and fruits, then the plant will direct all its strength to recovery and preservation of healthy parts.
The main and most common cause of diseases and pests is violation of maintenance conditions and care rules. With increased attention to indoor pets and strict compliance with their requirements and preferences, such a danger does not threaten.
Conditions for growing citrus fruits (video)
Citrus fruits belong to the rue family. Lemon, orange, tangerine, grapefruit, kincan and other citrus fruits are grown at home. Although it must be said right away that attempts to grow a fruit-bearing citrus tree at home are often cut short when the evergreen trees, which grow more than a meter in height, do not bear fruit. Although, with an annual cold winter (+5-8°C), citrus fruits can bloom and bear fruit within 2-3 years (rooted cuttings).
If you decide to grow citrus fruits from seeds for their fruits, then even if you achieve fruiting, the taste of the fruits will most likely disappoint you, as it will be too sour and bitter. It is easier to buy a citrus tree that is already bearing fruit, in this case you will not have to worry about grafting and wait for years for it to bear fruit.
In general, at home, trees obtained from grafted or rooted cuttings are more likely to bear fruit, and wild ones grown from seed do not bloom for a very long time - dozens of years, but in their natural habitat, somewhere in the vast expanses of Spain, trees begin to bear fruit at the age of 6 -7 years. For some, it will be a pleasure to grow a tree from a seed and it doesn’t matter whether it bears fruit or not. Be that as it may, in order for a citrus plant to develop well, it is important to know the conditions it needs and something about crown formation.
Citrus Fertilizer
In the first half of summer, fertilizers are used. This increases the sugar content of the fruit and reduces the bitter taste that is characteristic of citrus fruits when grown indoors. The plant needs more fertilizer the older it is and the longer it stays in one container. Fertilizers are applied with water for irrigation, but only healthy, not weakened plants can be fed. With additional artificial lighting of citrus fruits in winter, they also need to be fertilized, but not more often than once a month.
If citrus fruits were transplanted into fresh soil in the spring, then fertilizing after 1-1.5 months can begin with fertilizers for flowering plants. If the plants have not been replanted, then you need to start fertilizing with the addition of organic matter: 2-3 times with an interval of two weeks, this can be an extract from dry horse manure, well-laid humus, ready-made vermicompost from the store. It is very important not to overfeed citrus fruits with organic matter and check the acidity of the soil. After two feedings nitrogen fertilizers, you can feed them with complex fertilizers for indoor flowering plants (for example, Fertika Lux).
By the way
Sometimes on sale you can see citrus fruits with a stalk - a small twig with a couple of leaves; mainly Chinese tangerines are found, passed off as Abkhazian. They taste good, but the main thing is that if the branches are not frostbitten and have not had time to dry out, you can try to carefully separate them and graft them.
By the way
Light shading of citrus fruits from the scorching rays of the sun promotes the formation of healthy, dark green foliage. When placed in direct sunlight, the plants' leaves will turn pale green, and after a gloomy winter, they may become scorched in the spring. On the contrary, in dark room Citrus trees gradually shed their leaves, and new leaves, if they appear, are small and deformed.
Therefore, it is recommended to keep plants in a window facing north-west or south-east in the summer (these windows are less sunny, but also less hot), and in the winter - to the south and south-west, so that the plant will receive uniform lighting throughout the year. But, of course, such rearrangements are possible in apartments and houses where the windows are on opposite sides.
You can also move the plants deeper into the room in the summer, and in winter, on the contrary, move the plants as close to the window as possible.
Orange and lemon fruits are characterized by increased acidity when there is a lack of light. However, in summer, plants must be shaded from the sun in the afternoon.
Citrus pests
Scale insects: this pest is not difficult to detect; scale insects are clearly visible on citrus fruits, but they cause significant harm - spreading throughout the entire tree, their brown shields stick to the stems, petioles, and leaves. If you run your fingernail across the shield, a damp spot remains. In a microscope, these pests are similar in shape, excuse the comparison, to fascist helmets, furry on the inside, and just as nasty: they suck out cell sap, leaves lose color, dry out and fall off.
Control measures: if your citrus tree is small, it is better to take it to the bathroom and wash the stems and leaves with a soapy sponge. If the large tree is in a bucket or tub, wipe everything available seats with a cotton pad soaked in alcohol.
Now we need the insecticide Aktara (or confidor), it is effective against any scale insects, including scale insects. You need to dilute the drug according to the instructions and pour lemon or orange under the root, and then spray thoroughly over the leaves. Repeat treatment after a week.
Other insecticides are also produced against scale insects and other insect pests: actellik, fitoverm, karbofos, decis and others. But they are smellier, toxic and are highly undesirable to use at home.
Spider mites are one of the most disgusting and... frequent pests on citrus fruits. Ticks are dangerous because:
- multiply and develop rapidly
- it is extremely difficult to wash them off - they hide in the axils of the leaves, in the buds, in the upper layers of the soil
- Conventional insecticides are not effective against them, but only special preparations - acaricides
- after two treatments, ticks develop resistance - the new generation is more resistant to active substance drug.
Signs of mites on citrus fruits
- leaves have yellowish or whitish spots without clear boundaries
- streaks and dots are gray or silvery, especially noticeable on young leaves
- deformed flower petals, young leaves, shriveled buds
- on the back of the leaves there are small grains, crumbs, husks - the pests themselves and skins from molting
- with high magnification (loupe, microscope), a very fine web is visible.
Therefore, if you have ever had mites, you will have to observe and observe and periodically, at least once a month, carefully inspect the entire plant
Control measures. To begin, wash off or wipe off the pests by hand. To do this, you will either have to take the pot to the bathroom or shower, put the pot on its side so that the leaves are hanging, and water it with a powerful pressure of a hot shower; or wash each leaf by hand - take it and wipe it on both sides.
The problem is that there are no systemic drugs against ticks - just pour water on them and the ticks will die. Only enteric contact: sprayed, took out the tick. Wherever the solution gets in, the mites will survive and continue to reproduce.
Against ticks, it is worth trying such products as Apallo, Vermitec, Oberon, etc.
Read more about pests of indoor plants in the section "pests"
Citrus fruits are grown on an industrial scale, in greenhouses and in private households. All citrus, in particular lemon, lime, tangerine and even orange or grapefruit, you can grow up in an apartment. Citrus fruits are cultigens, as they have been growing in cultivation for a long time. Grown from seed, they do not require grafting, but formation is required for them, otherwise citrus fruits will not bloom.
Features of growing Citrus fruits
In addition, they are important for the presence of mycorrhiza in citrus fruits, which is found in the mother soil in the roots of each citrus plant, since they grow in a community with microfungi living on their roots. If the microfungi die, the plant itself will die. Therefore, you should not use pesticides or a too bright solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) to water the soil when controlling pests. For the same reason, it is prohibited to use fresh manure or apply large doses of mineral fertilizers when fertilizing.
Seeds, taken out from ripe fruit, should be warmed up in warm water, this will speed up germination. The seeds are buried in the soil 2-3 times the diameter of the seed, that is, slightly deeper than the nail. Sometimes several plants grow from one seed at once, since citrus fruits are characterized by polyembryony. You should leave only one plant, cutting off the rest with scissors. Citrus seeds have good germination. Plants grown from seed usually bloom and begin to bear fruit in the 10th year, but the quality of the fruit may be low.
You will get much better results if you first grow a seedling from a grapefruit or pomelo seed, and then graft any other citrus plant onto it early stage, when the seedling has a stem as thick as a match (2–3 years after emergence). The grafted plant develops faster, since the root system of pomelo and grapefruit is more powerful than that of other citrus fruits. This significantly accelerates the plant’s entry into fruiting. In this case, you will need a cutting of a fruit-bearing plant (you can contact a greenhouse, nursery or friends). From a grafted cutting, the plant blooms and begins to bear fruit in the 2nd–3rd year.
Grafting for growing citrus fruits
Vaccination The easiest way to do it is by budding, that is, with an eye. Vaccination will require more than mature plant(i.e. 5–6 year old). Budding begins when the bark is well separated from the wood (in April or August). A well-ripened 1–2-year-old branch is cut from a fruiting citrus plant. Cut off the leaves, leaving only the stalk, and place it in a glass of water. On the stem of a plant grown from seeds, at a height of 5–6 cm, the place chosen for grafting is thoroughly cleaned; there should be no dirt on it. You can wipe this area with vodka, as well as your hands and the knife blade. The operation must be sterile - this is the key to success.
Using a sharp knife (placed perpendicular to the stem of the seedling), make a T-shaped cut in the bark, without touching the thin green layer of cambium between the bark and the wood. The length of the cut is about 2 cm, the width is about 1/2 cm. On the prepared grafting cutting, two transverse cuts are made in the bark 1 cm below and above the eye. Then they carefully cut off the bud, grabbing the bark along with the cambium (this is literally a jewelry job, so first practice on the branches of any plants brought from the street). While spreading the top edges of the T-shaped cut on the seedling, insert a bud (pay attention to where it is at the top) and push it deep into the cut. Smooth the cut well with your fingers, pressing the bud firmly against the cambium. Tie the top and bottom so that the bud remains outside. The easiest way is to use a narrow strip of regular tape for tying. polymer film, which must be wiped with vodka.
After about 20 days, the kidney should take root, that is, begin to grow. When the cutting from the bud grows 5–10 cm, the seedling on which the bud was grafted must be cut obliquely, 2–3 mm above the base of the new shoot from the graft. After this, you need to immediately cover the cut with liquid garden varnish, or black metal varnish - bitumen, or natural oil paint(it is now sold only in art stores and is expensive). The shoot that has developed from the grafted bud is tied to a peg stuck into the soil.
The cuttings can not only be grafted, but also rooted. Rooting It goes slowly, it takes 1.5–2 months for lemon and up to 6 months for orange and tangerine! The grafted plant will begin bearing fruit in the 3rd year. In any case, cuttings should be taken from the ends of the shoots of a healthy fruit-bearing tree, which have just finished growing this season, have become slightly lignified, but still retain flexibility. The bark on them should still be green. The length of the cutting is 8–10 cm, it should have 3–4 leaves. The cuttings are cut with very sharp and thin knife or a scalpel. The lower cut is made oblique (directly under the leaf or bud), and the upper cut is made straight (1–1.5 cm above the bud). Cutting citrus fruits indoors It is possible throughout the year, but it is better to do this in April - May, then they will have time to build up a good root system by winter.
Substrate for planting cuttings when grafting citrus fruits
Best substrate for planting cuttings is a mixture of sphagnum moss and steamed sand in equal volumes. The cuttings are planted immediately in pots, at the bottom of which shards or coarse sand (2–3 cm) are placed. Then pour a layer of nutritious soil (5–6 cm), and on top - a substrate of moss and sand (3–4 cm).
After planting the cuttings sprayed and placed in plastic bag, in which you need to take several exhalations (to increase the concentration of carbon dioxide), and then tie the bag. The pots are placed in a bright but not sunny place. Every morning and evening, the bags are untied, the cuttings are sprayed with warm (about 25 ° C) water, air is exhaled into them and tied again. The procedure can be simplified by covering the cuttings with jars and exhaling air into them or using small pieces of dry ice as a source of carbon dioxide. The air temperature should be between 20–25 °C. After rooting, the top bud will begin to grow, then the jar or bag can be removed, but daily spraying must be continued throughout the life of the plant.
Soil at citrus growing
Soil for citrus fruits must be rough, but at the same time fertile, with a neutral reaction and necessarily containing a large set of microelements. The introduction of fresh organic matter or large amounts of mineral fertilizers can destroy the cohabitants of citrus fruits (microfungi) and thereby harm the plants. Be sure to place broken shards at the bottom of the pot to allow excess water to drain. And of course, you need to put the pots on pallets. A coarse or heavy mixture consists of turf soil, coarse river sand and leaf humus, taken in a ratio of 1: 1: 1 by volume. Nowadays, gardening stores or the corresponding departments of large supermarkets sell ready-made mixtures for a wide variety of plants, including citrus fruits X.
They don't like citrus fruits movements. Plants may drop leaves even when the pot is rotated. Therefore, before starting citrus fruits, determine a place for them in the apartment. It should be light, but do not place plants on the windowsill (except in cases where there are double-glazed windows). The fact is that citrus fruits come from the subtropics, that is, they love warmth and moisture, so they get chilly on the windowsill near the glass in winter. In hot summer time, without turning the pot, they should be moved away from the window deeper into the room to avoid direct sunlight, which can cause sunburn. In case of burns or freezing, plants should be helped by spraying them with a solution of Ecoberin or Epin-extra.
Air temperature when growing citrus fruits
Citrus fruits love warmth, so room temperature should not fall below 24–25 °C. In addition, all citrus fruits need moist air, for this reason they should not be placed close to heating radiators. In addition, in winter, when the apartments are too dry, constant spraying of the leaves with water is required. For this, water obtained from melted snow or ice and heated to 22–25 ° C is best suited. You cannot use water directly from the tap; it must be passed through a filter or at least allowed to sit for a couple of days and be sure to be heated before spraying.
Watering citrus fruits
For glaze, which must be combined with fertilizing, you should also use filtered or settled water, always warm (temperature not lower than 20–22 °C). How much water should you pour, what fertilizers should you add to it, and how much of them are needed? All these questions will definitely arise in your mind. Despite the love for humid air, citrus trees die from excessive watering. They should be watered moderately, especially in winter. Their leathery leaves evaporate little moisture, and therefore excess water leads to rotting of the roots. Better loosen more often upper layer soil. With infrequent watering, the water should moisten the entire lump of earth. An indicator of sufficient watering is the appearance of water in the pan. I advise you to combine watering with weak mineral fertilizers (1 teaspoon per 5 liters of water).
Fertilizer for growing citrus fruits
The supplement must contain all required composition macro- and microelements. It is best to use Uniflorom-bud. It has everything needed by plants macro- and microelements, including extremely useful substances for citrus fruits - magnesium, selenium, cobalt and molybdenum. In addition, all minerals are enclosed in an organic shell, that is, they are in chelated form, and therefore are absorbed by plants immediately. The fertilizer itself is liquid and easy to dose. Pour the cap into 5 liters of water, stir and let it settle. The finished solution can be stored indefinitely.
You can also use the powder fraction fertilizers AVA. You need to pour 1 teaspoon of powder into 3 liters of water and let it brew for at least 3 days. Then you need to stir, let the sediment settle and water the plants. This fertilizer does not dissolve in water (so you don’t have to boil it for the sake of the experiment), but due to Brownian motion, ions of mineral elements contained in the fertilizer gradually penetrate into the water, and in very small doses. You will add water to the sludge for most of the year and continue to use it. This is a very profitable fertilizer, despite its apparent high cost. It contains everything necessary elements nutrition, but at the same time it does not contain any harmful impurities that are necessarily present in other mineral fertilizers, although this is not written about anywhere. All plants, especially citrus fruits, require organic silicon. It is contained in the preparations Energen and Siliplant. You only need to add 1-2 drops per 1 liter of solution for watering and fertilizing.
When citrus fruits bloom, especially lemons, there is a fabulous aroma in the apartment! They bloom for a long time, usually in inflorescences collected in a brush. The flowers are pink or white, appearing on the current growth of 3-year-old lateral horizontal shoots. During flowering, plants can be pollinated manually by applying pollen from the stamens to the pistil with a soft (squirrel) brush.
Citrus leaves emit phytoncides, so the smell of these plants is constantly diffused in the apartment. It is very gentle and also has a detrimental effect on pathogenic microbes in the room. At temperatures of 18–20 °C the fruits do not ripen. To ripen one fruit, 15 leaves are needed; if there are not enough of them, the lemon will shed excess fruits. Therefore, store the leaves, each of them is very valuable for the plant. Shedding of leaves can occur as a result of increased dryness or air temperature (more than 24–25 ° C). If the plant does not bloom for too long, you can “hurry it up” by reducing watering and slightly pulling the horizontal 3-year-old branch with a tight constriction.
Citrus leaves are glossy, shiny, leathery, and well adapted to retain moisture. Although these plants are called evergreens, each leaf lives for only 3 years. Dead leaves turn yellow and fall off, so don't be alarmed when this happens..
Transplanting citrus fruits
The transplant is being done every 3–5 years along with the entire clod of earth. Plants should not be planted or replanted in pots that are too spacious. If you give the plants the opportunity to grow freely, then they either stretch upward with one trunk without side branches, which means there will be no fruiting, or they take the form of a very dense bush.
You definitely need to study citrus crown formation. In a young tree that has reached 15–20 cm in height, in February, before the next growth begins, the top is cut off, leaving 5–6 well-developed buds below. These buds will soon germinate and give rise to lateral branches of the 1st order. Of these, 3–4 shoots are left, growing in different directions.
As soon as these branches finish growing, their ends are trimmed, leaving 3-4 buds on each. Second-order shoots will appear from them, the ends of which are also cut off after their growth has finished, again leaving 3-4 buds. Fruit branches of the 3rd order begin to grow from them. They do the same with them.
From the moment the branches of the 4th order appear, the formation of the crown ends and the fruiting period begins. Until the formation of skeletal branches of the 4th order is completed, fruiting should not be allowed, since the premature appearance of buds on the branches of the 3rd order will stop the further growth of the tree, therefore, before the growth of the branches of the 4th order ends, the first buds on the branches of the 3rd order should be removed .
WITH fruit tree at the end of February - beginning of March, you need to trim strong branches by 10-15 cm, cut out vegetative branches. In addition, it is necessary to cut out fattening sprouts, remove dry branches and branches that bear fruit (they are usually without leaves). Branches that grow too strongly upward are bent to a horizontal position (while they are growing upward, they will not bear fruit). In addition, branches growing inside the crown that are not capable of bearing fruit are cut out.
All citrus fruits are very sensitive to frost, during which the roots may dry out. In winter, it is best to keep plants in a bright room with a temperature of 7–8 °C. A glazed loggia or balcony is suitable for this. At the same time, it is necessary to constantly monitor the temperature so as not to overcool the trees, otherwise they will die (citrus crops do not tolerate temperatures below 5 ° C). Watering at this time is done very moderately.
In case of frost, plants should be brought indoors, maintaining their orientation towards the sun (that is, without turning), and keep them near balcony door. If you do not have loggias or balconies, keep citrus fruits on the window sills close to the glass, but in severe frosts, move them deeper into the room. Transfer the lemons carefully without turning the plants. In a dark room, citrus fruits, especially lemons, can lose their leaves, so lighting is needed in winter.
Pests when growing citrus fruits
Citrus pests, like any other plants in the apartment, - whitefly, aphids, scale insects, and less often thrips. The enemy of citrus fruits exclusively is the mealybug.
Spraying with the absolutely safe and also useful for both people and plants with the Healthy Garden preparation (4 grains per 1 liter of water) helps against aphids. The scale will have to be scraped off onto the litter and destroyed. Whiteflies and thrips are sucking insects. To combat them, you need to use the absorbable biological product Fitoverm, which is allowed to be used in an apartment (1 ml per 3 liters of water). It is especially effective when combined with Healthy Garden.
Whitefly- This is a disgusting insect, similar to a very small moth, which sits on the underside of the leaf and is therefore hardly noticeable. It multiplies as quickly as an aphid, but at the same time, a sooty fungus (black smearing coating) immediately settles on its sweetish secretions. The whitefly should be destroyed, the plaque should be washed off the leaves with soapy water, and then the leaves should be sprayed with Zircon (4 drops per glass of water).
Against scaleworm you need to use a pink solution of manganese the next time you water the plants. For preventive purposes, this is done with each watering and fertilizing, since potassium permanganate contains not only manganese, which has a detrimental effect on the mealybug, but also potassium, and all citrus fruits love potassium. Do not forget that too strong (dark pink) potassium permanganate solution can destroy microfungi living on the roots.
Recommendations:
Growing citrus fruits at home is very promising view home business
, ornamental plants are always in high demand. You can sell plants on the market, through flower shops.
Profitability:
- Initial costs: from 500 rubles
- Monthly income: from several thousand rubles
Earth.
In practice, over the years, it has become clear that land does not have that much influence for citrus cultivation. The biggest influences are light, heat and humidity; in comparison with them, the composition of the earth has no significant significance. The purpose of the substrate in a flowerpot is to create sufficient conditions for plant roots to small space take water, nutrients and air.
Briefly, when growing citrus fruits, you can follow the following rules:
1. The flowerpot should not be large. Soil that is not used by the roots, especially wet soil, causes rot and turns sour. The plant withers and drops its leaves. (My experience - I planted a small lemon in a 15-liter flowerpot. It stood on the veranda all summer - in the wind, rain, sun, even hail broke the leaves. I watered it quite abundantly, with the addition of a weak infusion of chicken droppings. So I watched the plant and gave him what he lacked. The lemon became so strong and big - everyone was surprised. Not scientifically, but that’s the way it is. And in small flowerpots everything is according to science, and the growth is also small).
2. An abundance of water is harmful to the plant. Good drainage is needed. When replanting a plant, choose a pot that is a couple of centimeters larger in size. The shape of the flowerpot should be such that there is room for the root ball and it can easily “slip out” of the flowerpot when needed (my experience is that the same plant in a large flowerpot does not need to be replanted, the plant is not stressed: there is enough land, it is spacious and good) .
3. In between waterings, let the soil dry out (not dry out). The water temperature should be 2 degrees higher than the air temperature. If the temperature of the substrate and irrigation water differs by more than 8 degrees, the plant becomes stressed and drops flowers and fruits. The same is true when spraying a plant.
In a small flowerpot, it is good to “water” the plant with water, immersing it along with the leaves in a bowl with water. When the bubbles stop, remove the pot, let the water drain and place it in a tray. If you are watering directly into a flowerpot, it is important to water around the edges of the flowerpot to moisten the roots near the walls of the flowerpot. Drain the water that flows into the tray after watering after an hour. If water quickly flows through the substrate when watering, it means that the plant’s soil is dangerously dry, and the entire flowerpot with the plant’s leaves must be placed in a bowl of water.
When growing a plant in an apartment, you need to spray it every day (just not in the sun). Drying is very dangerous for a young plant. But even if it drops all its leaves, there is no need to throw it away, the leaves can grow back. A moistened bag is placed on the plant, and the leaves will not take long to appear. The plant accepts not only water but also fertilizers well through its leaves. If there is any doubt whether it is necessary to water it or not, it is better to spray the plant, adding not only fertilizers to the water, if necessary, but also pesticides (just not in the evening or in the sun).
Watering, of course, depends on the growing and growing conditions. Lemon is ideally placed outdoors, where the plant enjoys dew, fog, and raindrops. The plant really likes it. And also for practice - sometimes the plant is overwatered and water flows over the edge of the pan; To prevent this from happening, you can water through a tray and pour into it as much water as the plant absorbs. If necessary, this procedure can be repeated after several waterings. Some gardeners thereby promote the growth of roots, which need to reach water (my experience is to water only with rain or melt water and always with a small amount of the fertilizer that the plant “requests”).
4. Vases. Clay containers allow air to pass through, but they dry out quickly. Plastic holds moisture, but does not allow air to pass through. Wooden containers have both positive properties, but they are short-lived.
The roots of the plant breathe air that passes through the bottom of the flowerpot, so drainage of the flowerpot is required, and no water should remain in the pan after watering. The flowerpot is selected according to the size of the plant, the composition of the substrate, and the place where it will stand (the black flowerpot heats up in the sun). In a large plastic flowerpot, you will have to drill side holes so that the plant can breathe (my experience is that I did not drill holes in a large flowerpot; however, I periodically stick thin wooden sticks into the flowerpot).
If you use a wooden flowerpot, you cannot treat it chemical compounds. Best processed linseed oil mixed with ash and crushed charcoal. A clay pot dries out quickly in the sun, and salts clog the walls of the pot, which is why air does not pass through them. But a clay pot prevents the roots from rotting when overwatering, as in a plastic pot; in addition, if the flowerpot will not stand on the balcony, it can be buried in the ground in the garden.
Over time, the roots of the plant rest against the walls of the flowerpot. In wooden flowerpots, it is these thin roots that suffer from drying out - then the edges of the leaves dry out (this is often the reason for the drying out of the edges of the leaves). When growing citrus fruits, gardeners most often use square containers - they save space and provide a microclimate (nearby plants protect each other from overheating and moisture loss, and it is convenient to spray the leaves). In large flowerpots, the top layer of soil is periodically replaced. Any flowerpots must be protected from sunlight.
Place.
Choosing a place for citrus fruits is one of the important tasks. It is dangerous to place a plant on a windowsill in an apartment, both in winter and in summer. In winter, radiators are heated, and they are most often located under the windowsill. Cold air from the window cools the substrate and roots, which causes them to rot. Dry and warm room air dries out the leaves, and we water the plant more often. Where the plant stands, the batteries need to be covered with something or a humidifier installed. The flowerpot needs to be raised so that its bottom does not cool.
Lemon is a plant that loves a warm and fairly sunny place; loves the greenhouse very much. (My experience is that after spring frosts and until autumn frosts, lemons stand on open place- steps of the veranda). When the nights are cold in the fall or the temperature difference between day and night is large, I cover the plants with agro-film at night. They stand on the south side of the house, covered from the north by a wall. Citrus fruits are very resistant, if you are accustomed to this from an early age, you just need to look at the leaves - they indicate the problems the plant has.
When a plant is taken outside after winter, it is necessary to gradually accustom it to open sunlight - out of habit, there may be burns on the leaves.
Light.
Sufficient lighting intensity is one of the the most important conditions citrus growth. Lack of light can affect the plant's absorption of water. There are plants with “long” and “short” days; citrus fruits are neutral.
Still, in winter, problems emerge - you need to reduce the temperature and watering, otherwise the plant begins to grow unhealthy: due to lack of light, the branches become elongated and the leaves become smaller. This is a problem for apartments. The plant, although growing, may later shed its leaves and even die, having lost too much reserve energy. The only way out is to find a balance between watering, air humidity, temperature and lighting. This is when additional lighting may be needed. By the way, direct lighting is not necessary for citrus fruits; they do well in diffused bright light, but they cannot tolerate long shadows.
In the summer, when the plants are standing outside, at noon sometimes you have to cover them and create temporary shade from the intense rays of the sun.
Temperature.
Beginning amateur citrus growers often imagine that in their homeland citrus fruits grow in very warm conditions that we cannot create. It's true - citrus fruits love warmth and, in our climatic conditions, catch every ray of sunshine. After all, on native plantations the average annual temperature is 16-18 degrees, the average fruit ripening temperature is 9-15 degrees. In places of natural cultivation, the average temperature of the coldest month is 7-14 degrees.
So what temperature is acceptable in our conditions? Citrus fruits are hardy; in the absence of flowers or fruits, they can remain in sub-zero temperature, as well as up to 50 degrees of heat (this can happen in a greenhouse or on a windowsill). This, of course, slows down plant development, and with longer exposure it can destroy them. Just as a temperature difference of 8 degrees between irrigation water and substrate can put a plant in a state of shock, so quickly transferring a plant from a dark place to bright light - from a house under direct rays of the sun - can destroy the plant.
Temperature influence:
Vegetation and fruit growing: 22-24 degrees;
- Flowering: 14-16 degrees;
- Setting fruit flowers: 22-24 degrees
- The ovaries fall off at a temperature of 30 degrees;
- Fruit ripening: 14-18 degrees;
- Seed germination: 20-25 degrees;
- Wintering: 5-10 degrees;
- Active spring growth: 12 degrees;
- Growth stops below 12 degrees and above 38 degrees;
- The water temperature for watering and spraying citrus fruits should be 1-2 degrees higher than the substrate temperature (if the water is 8 degrees warmer or colder than the substrate, the plant will get stressed);
- The air temperature should be 1-3 degrees higher than that of the substrate.
Transpiration.
Transpiration is the evaporation of moisture by a plant through its leaves; 98% of the water passing through a plant is lost to transpiration. This is of great importance when growing citrus fruits. The leaves of the plant must be clean, free of dust, without spraying with leaf shine, etc. At high temperatures and wind, the intensity of moisture evaporation increases 6 times compared to normal weather. Sometimes, it would seem that all conditions have been created for the plant, but it begins to shed its leaves. One of the reasons is a failure in the balance of fluid passage in the plant.
Air humidity at 22-24 degrees: 60-70%;
Air humidity in winter: 40-50%.
The water should be soft, without chlorine. Ideally, soft, fresh rainwater (it contains air, is slightly acidic, pH 6-6.5). Clean rainwater collected 15 minutes after the start of rain.
Some tips for growing citrus fruits in an apartment.
Many examples show that growing citrus fruits indoors is quite possible. Of course, more attention needs to be paid to them, especially in winter. All problems of citrus fruits when grown in apartment conditions increase significantly, but citrus fruits tend to adapt.
You can grow citrus fruits in an apartment:
Whole year;
- take it out into the air;
- if you find a place for wintering (about 10 degrees).
Positive side- plants are less prone to fungal diseases, because fungi do not like dry air, unless we ourselves bring these diseases home from somewhere.
In apartments, the temperature is too high (sometimes the same day and night), low humidity - this is also harmful for humans. When caring for plants, it is advisable to bring the air humidity to 60%; this is beneficial for plants and humans.
All citrus fruits require a winter rest at low temperatures. In an apartment, plants enter a dormant period due to a lack of light intensity, which can kill the plants. Wintering takes place in a cool place (10 degrees) with minimal watering, because dormant roots do not accept moisture and will begin to rot. The leaves are sometimes sprayed. Wintering conditions depend on the type of citrus fruit.
Citrus fruits can be kept in a dark room for three months - in the basement, garage, staircase and so on. (this applies to strong and healthy plants; for amateur citrus growers this can be difficult, because it will be difficult to control the plants).
In a cold room, when plants hibernate, watering and spraying stops, since at low temperatures they get enough moisture from the air. Of course, fertilizer also stops. Plants should not be left to overwinter in areas with chemical fumes. When checking plants, they should not be allowed to dry out.
Warm winter.
If the plant overwinters in a warm room, place it in the brightest place and reduce watering. We shorten young immature branches, since in the spring they will be lost anyway, and in winter they will burden the plant.
We isolate the plant from the batteries; We organize everything in such a way that warm air currents do not reach the plant. We also protect the plant from cold air currents; a cold flowerpot and dry, warm leaves will lead to the death of the plant.
In winter, we spray the plant through the leaves more intensively than water it. The solution can be made slightly nutritious.
Plants spend more resources in winter than they can take. If they grow, they stretch out because they want to get more light and moisture. We have to do additional lighting.
In the spring we add moisture when we see that the plant is waking up; Little by little we begin to feed.
Citrus fruits do not like the same temperature night and day. At night you need to either ventilate the room or turn down the heating. It's still unnatural for citrus terms- high wintering temperatures and dry air.
In winter, the more dangerous thing is not the overdrying of the substrate, but the general decrease in plant fluids. If citrus leaves begin to dry out in winter, there is no need to rush to water the plant, as the resting roots will begin to rot. All attention should be focused on air humidity, spraying and spraying water around the plant. You can place the plant in an aquarium or next to another plant (but not on another flowerpot); you can attach a plastic bag over the plant.
Planting and transplanting.
Transplantation is an inevitable process, after which we look at the plant as if it were a critically ill patient, for whom any stress can result in death.
Young citrus fruits are replanted every year or every other year, older ones - less and less. The older the plant, the more stress it experiences during transplantation.
For adult plants, the top layer of soil is changed, and, while this is possible, it would be good to also change the side soil (by choosing a larger pot). The new substrate should be nutritious; it is advisable to add rotted manure to it.
Citrus seedlings dive when the first pair of leaves appears.
Citrus fruits are replanted in early spring before the beginning of the growing season (during the dormant period). Then the plant is brought into a lighter and warm room, gradually increasing heat and light. When the first signs of growth appear, increase the moisture and only then fertilize.
If the plant will overwinter in a warm place, you can replant it in the fall, if the soil is warm enough and rooting occurs before November. Summer replanting is possible only without damaging the root ball, between two periods of growth; then keep the plant in the shade. In winter, citrus fruits can be replanted with the destruction of the earthen clod, since the roots are inactive at this time; this is unacceptable for plants without leaves at temperatures below 12 degrees.
Plants are replanted if they were purchased in a store and if necessary (diseases, soil contamination, etc.) at any time, after replanting, taking all measures to save the plants.
The rules for transplanting citrus fruits are the same as for other plants. If the roots are damaged, they are disinfected. Planting is done in a moist substrate, since the plant is watered only the next day. When replanting, a certain amount of old soil must be left on the roots, since bacteria live in it, facilitating the absorption of nutrients by the roots. If this is not possible, you need to take some soil from a flowerpot of another citrus.
The plant is planted at the same level, preventing the base of the neck from falling asleep. After transplantation, the plant is shaded; There is no need to change other conditions to avoid stress. Citrus trees need quite a bit of attention; mistakes are not easy to correct. The critical period after transplantation is 6 months.
If the volume of roots decreases during replanting, take a smaller pot. Then we trim the crown in proportion to the roots. Pruning the crown does not harm even with minor damage to the roots.
If after replanting the plant has unwanted branches with leaves, let them grow, let the plant breathe - this will promote root growth. They can be trimmed later.
Trimming.
If we want to get good harvest, be sure to prune citrus fruits.
The key is to prune often so that the pruning is moderate. And keep in mind that the brain must work faster than the hand.
The rules for pruning citrus fruits are similar to the rules for pruning fruit trees. There may be different purposes for pruning, so there will be differences in timing and methods. the main objective- form a crown and keep the plant in good shape. Pruning is carried out during the life of the plant to rejuvenate it, stimulate the growth of lower branches, thin out the crown, during transplantation, to obtain bountiful harvest etc. The idea that pruning has a direct effect on yield is wrong; it only rejuvenates the plant.
Fertilizing and pruning plants have a close relationship. A well-fertilized plant requires less pruning and will produce a larger harvest. On the other hand, pruning can reduce the yield so as not to overload the plant. Excessive pruning slows down the growth of citrus fruits, so you need to find harmony between pruning and harvest. It also depends on the type of plant; Some citrus fruits have a tendency to thicken the crown.
You can consult a specialist about the specifics of pruning citrus fruits.
Fertilizer.
Fertilizer helps the plant develop, but it is not a way to “pump up” the plant in hopes of a miraculous result. Fertilizer is selected carefully so as not to harm the plant; especially since the plant has a rest period, which may be disrupted.
General rules fertilizers:
Do not fertilize dry soil;
- Take into account temperature, growing season;
- Frequent watering or rain washes away fertilizer.
The plant itself says what it needs. There are many rules for this that experienced flower growers know. (If you spray a plant with beer, it not only nourishes, but also shines. Some citrus pests really don’t like beer).
With constant care, plants usually feel quite good. After transplantation, citrus fruits do not need feeding for two months. Some citrus growers recommend feeding citrus fruits not only with beer, but also with leftover coffee or tea. You can’t often feed a plant - overfeeding is more dangerous than not feeding it.
Diseases.
It is known that a strong plant has good immunity. We must remember that by destroying pests, we also destroy living creatures that help the plant to exist and defend itself. When spraying against pests, you can feed the plant through the leaves. If the pests can be collected with your hands, that’s great, but you should not rub the leaves with a brush (only hard branches or trunk). When spraying, first treat the underside of the leaf.
Health.
What does citrus do for your health? Its smell kills bacteria and viruses; have a positive effect on a person essential oils. Plants, not just citrus fruits, absorb harmful emissions emitted by environmental devices. Plants have a positive effect on the psyche and health of their loved ones.
So... If we want to propagate our citrus fruits:
We sow citrus seeds and then graft, propagate citrus fruits by cuttings. If the plant does not bloom, you can graft a sprig of flowering citrus onto it; the fruits will be like those of the mother plant.
Types of citrus fruits are recognized by their leaves.
All about citrus fruits on the website website
All about exotics on the website website
|
|
Weekly Free Site Digest website
Every week, for 10 years, for our 100,000 subscribers, an excellent selection of relevant materials about flowers and gardens, as well as other useful information.
Subscribe and receive!
Citrus crops originated from South-East Asia: in the tropical zone it is warm almost all year round, only in winter there is a slight decrease in temperature, in addition, plants are constantly in conditions of good light and high humidity. It is quite difficult to create ideal conditions for indoor citrus plants at home, but it is possible: if done correctly, they will become a real decoration for the windowsill and will even bear fruit several times a year. What are the features of citrus fruits, and what are the most common crops?
Many indoor citrus crops can bloom several times a year.
However, in winter, it is advisable to lower the room temperature slightly: since the duration of the sunny day decreases, the plant suffers from a lack of sunlight. Due to large energy losses, it will look exhausted, and leaves will often fall off. In order to avoid unnecessary energy consumption, it is necessary to either provide additional artificial illumination of the required spectrum, or lower the temperature in the room.
Citrus indoor crops have several more growing features:
- They all love sunlight very much - it is recommended to place them on southern and eastern windows. If you want to plant citrus fruits, they should be well lit; you can plant them in the partial shade of other plants. Lack of light quickly depletes the plant, and it may die.
- The optimal temperature is +18 degrees with air humidity up to 70%. It is difficult to provide such conditions in a room, so it is advisable to regularly water the plant with warm water. Without a seasonal drop in temperature and a dormant period, citrus fruits live no more than 3-4 years, so you need to harvest them for the winter from November to February.
- Citrus fruits love water: it should be regular and plentiful. However, in order to prevent rotting of the roots, it is necessary to allow the soil to dry between waterings, and during the dormant period the plant is watered no more than once a week.
These are just the basic rules for growing citrus fruits; each crop has its own special requirements for maintenance. Let's take a closer look at the most common citrus indoor plants.
Indoor tangerine can be a dwarf or regular variety: this plant has long been used for growing in a greenhouse and on a windowsill. Mandarin can be grown as a bonsai - this is a special technology for forming a dwarf bush, which allows you to get miniature tree which will bloom and bear fruit.
Mandarin is popular for its beautiful green leaves, white flowers with a pleasant scent and fragrant fruits that can hang on the branches for several months.
The fruits of indoor tangerines have only decorative value: they are not worth eating because the taste is too sour. It is possible to improve the taste of mono fruits through breeding work with several plants, but developing a new variety will take a very long time. Caring for an indoor tangerine is not too difficult; you need to comply with several basic requirements:
- Regular, but not excessive watering. The more leaves a plant has, the more actively they evaporate moisture, and the required amount of water depends on this. In apartment conditions, it is advisable to grow tangerine regularly, since the plant suffers from constantly dry air.
- Regular feeding with soluble minerals. IN large quantities Tangerine especially needs nutrients in the spring, before starting - at this time it is carried out with a fertilizer solution 1-2 times a week. Do not exceed the dosage: the plant is not able to absorb large doses of fertilizers, and they can destroy.
- . If you purchased not an indoor variety, but a regular one. Several large branches should not be allowed to grow: their tips are regularly pinched to achieve the appearance of lateral shoots.
- On young plants, flowers and ovaries need to be controlled: than the plant less fruit, the larger they will be, so excess ovaries must be removed in time. At first, only one ovary is left; the next year the number of fruits can be increased.
Constant care will make the tangerine strong and beautiful: it will decorate your home with thick foliage and magnificent orange fruits with a pleasant smell. Growing a tangerine on a windowsill does not require much hassle: compliance basic principles care will already allow you to quickly achieve good growth.
Growing oranges
An orange can be grown at home from a seed obtained from the most common store-bought fruit. In nature, this plant is a medium-sized tree up to 7 meters high; indoor orange can reach 3 meters in height. You can grow it not only from seeds, but also if one of your friends already has an adult plant at home.
When planted with seeds, an orange begins to bloom and bear fruit no earlier than after 7-10 years; growing a plant from a cutting goes much faster.
The conditions for growing a homemade orange are approximately the same as for other citrus crops: the plant needs a lot of light, regular watering, but it is not advisable to loosen it often - this can seriously damage the roots.
When growing an orange from a seed, you must follow correct sequence actions:
- You will need a mixture of peat and fertile soil, it is placed in small pots. For planting, it is advisable to take seeds from several fully ripened fruits; the seeds must have the correct shape.
- They are planted in the soil at a distance of 5 cm from each other, the seed planting depth is approximately 1 cm. In about two weeks, sprouts will appear.
- Of all the sprouts, only the strongest should be left. A mi-greenhouse is equipped for them: the plants are covered with a glass jar to ensure sufficient temperature and humidity underneath. To ensure ventilation, the can must be removed for half an hour every day.
- As soon as the sprouts have several true leaves, they are transplanted into separate pots and placed on a well-lit windowsill. A repeat will be required when the height of the plant reaches 20 cm, from about this time it will be necessary to form a crown.
Like the homemade tangerine, the fruits of the indoor orange have primarily decorative value. When propagated by seeds, due to cross-pollination, the fruit will not be the same as that of the parent plant. When growing oranges in greenhouses, breeders select seeds from the sweetest and most delicious fruits to convey these qualities to the next plant by inheritance, but this is a long, multi-year work.
It is better not to move your homemade orange from place to place; it may react to changing conditions by dropping its leaves. A spacious, well-lit window sill is immediately selected for it and conditions for consistently good growth are provided.
Calamondin is a dwarf citrus tree that most closely resembles a small tangerine with bright, small fruits. Its advantage is its small size: it’s easy to find a place for such a plant on the windowsill, and you don’t have to worry about regularly trimming the crown. Calamondin requires approximately the same conditions as other citrus fruits, but there are still several important nuances in its cultivation.
Calamondin – light-loving indoor plant, however, it loves not direct, but diffused sunlight.
In summer it feels comfortable on the south and east sides; in winter it can be moved to the windowsill on the north side of the house. If calamondin does not have enough light, it will grow very slowly without flowering or fruiting. During the summer months it can be taken out Fresh air, it can be placed in partial shade for a while.
The plant requires regular, heavy watering during the summer months, but only needs watering once a week in winter. For wintering, it is advisable to move it to a cool room - the dormant period helps the plant restore strength and prepare for new flowering and fruiting.
Calamondin reproduces in two main ways - and. Seed propagation is too long a method; fruiting will have to wait several years. You can propagate a plant much faster using cuttings; this work is carried out as follows:
- Cuttings are young shoots that should contain at least 2-3 buds. They are cut from an adult plant and placed for some time in a nutrient solution.
- When the cuttings form their own young roots, they are transplanted into the ground. The optimal soil mixture consists of peat and flower soil; they need to be mixed well in a 1:1 ratio.
- The cutting is covered with a glass jar to create a high temperature and humidity environment. To change the air in a mini-greenhouse, the jar needs to be removed once a day for half an hour.
- As soon as the cuttings have their first leaves, the jar can be removed, after which the calamondin is grown as a regular indoor citrus plant.
At proper care the plant will bear fruit every year, the bright fruits look beautiful among the thick dark green leaves. You should not eat pods as food; they will be too sour or even bitter.
Growing grapefruit at home is not as difficult as it might seem. With the correct formation of the crown, the height of the plant in indoor conditions does not exceed 1.5-2 meters; it will look very beautiful thanks to the dark leaves on especially curved petioles. Indoor grapefruit varieties are capable of producing juicy and quite tasty fruits, and their weight can reach 400 grams.
Grapefruit is a light-loving plant, it needs sufficient quantity sunlight and free space.
It is suitable for growing not only in an apartment, but also in an office, in a greenhouse or on an insulated loggia. Grapefruit does not like cold weather; even short-term frosts can cause serious harm to it, so it can only be kept outdoors in the summer months.
Watering the plant:
- Grapefruit requires regular watering in the warm season, and the water should not stagnate in the pot - install a drainage layer of expanded clay at the bottom.
- To ensure normal air humidity, the plant must be constantly sprayed with a spray bottle.
- In winter, the plant is removed to a room with a lower temperature and less light; during the dormant period, it is enough to water it only 2 times a month.
Young plants are replanted annually; for adult grapefruits, the soil substrate should be replaced at least once every 5-6 years. During the period of active and fruiting, the plant is fed with complex, for example, "Rainbow".
Grapefruit – the best option for home cultivation from seed. Regular seeds from ripe fruits They germinate quickly and take root well; the plant can begin to bear fruit already in the fourth year if comfortable conditions are created for it. It is important to provide it with a sufficient amount of sunlight: if there is not enough light, growth slows down and the trunk becomes bent. If it is not possible to place the plant on a southern or eastern windowsill, you need to purchase a special fluorescent lamp for indoor flowers. The result of care and maintenance will be regular fruiting and beautiful abundant flowering.
Growing citron
Citron is a rarer citrus plant; it is grown indoors only for its decorative qualities. Citron has large yellow fruits that look beautiful against the background of dark green leaves. In indoor conditions, the plant reaches a height of 1.5 meters.
The most interesting decorative variety considered to be a finger citron - it is also called the “Hand of Buddha”.
He's interesting unusual shape fruits - in appearance they most closely resemble a bunch of bananas. Such a citron begins to bear fruit already in the third year after planting. This plant is a light-loving plant; even during the dormant period it should be in a well-lit room. In summer, citron needs abundant regular water; in dry indoor air, it is placed in a pan of water or regularly sprayed with a spray bottle.
Citron can also be planted as seedlings: the first option is longer, you will have to wait more than 5 years for fruits. When propagated, it is possible to obtain a plant that completely copies the parental traits; you can plant a citron with the largest and most fragrant fruits at home. It is not difficult to grow citrus fruits at home, and they will quickly turn into one of the main decorations of the windowsill. When providing good conditions any citrus plant will quickly begin to bloom and bear fruit.
More information can be found in the video.