Cedar transplantation: basic rules and practical recommendations. Cedar: planting and care

cedar replanting, when and what are the nuances? The plant is 1.5 years old. thanks and got the best answer

Answer from A N[guru]
Cedar can grow on any soil except clean sandy and clayey soil. An open place is chosen for cedar, although it can grow in the shade of other trees. The distance when planting between trees in a row is 4-6 m, between rows - 8 m. To trees of other species - at least 3-6 m, to buildings - at least 3 m. Dig a hole with a diameter of 50-60 cm and the same depth , and fill it with a mixture of soil from the site and humus (3-4:1), add two glasses of wood ash or complex granular mineral fertilizer (preferably with microelements) - 200-250 g for the entire volume of the pit, mix thoroughly and compact. In the center of the hole (completely filled with the above mixture) - make a hole the size of the coma (roots with soil) of the cedar seedling. Carefully release the seedling from plastic pot, and together with the lump, place the seedling in the hole so that its root collar (the boundary between the stem and the root system) is at the level of the soil surface. Determine the south and north on your site (the sun at noon is in the south), turn the seedling along with the lump to the south on the side where it has more developed shoots (on the north side there are few shoots and they are less developed). Orientation by magnetic field Land is important for good survival of cedar in a new place. Fill the remaining space with the prepared mixture and compact it, make an irrigation furrow or roller, water the seedling at the rate of 10-20 liters, and sprinkle the surface with soil with fallen needles from a coniferous (pine) forest in a layer of 1-5 cm. Care rules: 1. In the first year after planting, the seedling is covered from March to April double layer gauze to protect against sunburn. 2. When a white coating appears on young shoots, use a weak household solution. soap, or onion peel, or medium solution potassium permanganate, you can also use fungicides (topaz, etc.) White plaque It is not dangerous for plants, but it retards their growth and development. 3. When cobwebs appear on the tips of young shoots, they are treated with insecticides (Decis, Actellik, biological products). 4. In open ground, during severe drought, plants are watered as needed. When planting, it is better to tie small seedlings to a peg so that the wind does not disturb them. Remember that cedar is a special tree; it is sensitive to internal state person - so approach the cedar with love and joy in your soul - and it will thank you in kind! Diseases and pests - what to do? From April to September, weakened coniferous plants can become attractive food for stem pests: bark beetles, longhorned beetles, and borers. Healthy trees can also be attacked by pests, but usually repel their attempts by flooding them with secreted resin. Weakened trees do not have such immunity and are not able to resist. By burrowing under the bark of such trees, insects begin to develop and, making tunnels, go deeper into the wood, interrupting vital processes and disrupting the vital activity of the growing tree. The more time a tree remains unprotected, the deeper insects burrow under the bark, and the more difficult it is to destroy them and keep the tree alive. During active flight insect pests can successfully colonize a weakened tree and go deeper into the wood within 1-5 days. If this happens, none of the known methods of insect control can eliminate the death of the tree or provide any reliable suppression of the pest larvae located under the bark. Therefore, the main method of protecting a growing forest from stem pests is to prevent its colonization by insects and create a barrier that prevents damage.

The popularity of cedar due to high decorative qualities, as well as the fact that its wood is widely used in the construction of cottages, is rapidly increasing. In order to admire this majestic representative of conifers and use it for practical purposes, you must first grow a tree. The agricultural technology itself will not be difficult, but replanting the cedar requires special effort and knowledge, read more about this in the article.

When to replant cedar: summer, autumn and spring

Cedar belongs to crops that can be replanted at any time of the year. Experienced gardeners, foresters and nursery owners recommend replanting from early spring to early summer. This is the optimal time for the seedling to take root well, get stronger and begin to grow. You can carry out the procedure in the fall (in September - early October), but there is a risk that the tree will not have time to take root well before the onset of frost and cold weather.

Important! When replanting, it is worth considering the fact where the seedling came from on your site: if it is forest, then it needs to be replanted in late autumn, even at the beginning of winter. It is recommended to move the plant from the nursery to a new place in early spring, in summer and early autumn.

How to transplant a cedar to a permanent place

The procedure for transplanting cedar pine to a permanent site has its own characteristics, which may vary depending on the age and growing conditions of the seedlings. The main rule is that the sprouts must be dug out together with a clod of earth, otherwise the tree will not take root.

Sapling from the forest

Many gardeners complain that seedlings from the forest do not want to grow in a new area, not suspecting that the reason lies in violation of the rules of transplantation, or rather, digging, the process of which must be carried out as carefully as possible so as not to damage the rhizome of the plant, the main thing is the smallest ones roots. The function of small roots is to absorb useful material and moisture from the soil. Damage to them is fraught with death for cedars.

The best age for transplanting a cedar seedling from the forest to a new place is the 5th–6th year of life.. Guess how old young tree, you can, focusing on its dimensions: its height should be approximately 1 m, and the trunk width should be about 2 cm.

Is it possible to dig up cedar in the forest?

If you decide to plant at your dacha or in garden plot forest cedar seedling, then you must be aware that digging up a tree in the forest is possible only after obtaining permission from the forester. Otherwise it will be considered theft.

Did you know? Wooden utensils, made of cedar wood, is ideal for storing fresh milk: it will not sour for a long time.

How to dig up a cedar tree in the forest for replanting

Before you begin the procedure of digging up a five- or six-year-old cedar, you should familiarize yourself with the characteristics of the plant’s rhizome in order to minimize the possibility of causing damage to the tree.

The seedling must be dug up so that the lump of earth around the roots is preserved as much as possible.. Small cedar roots grow very slowly, and at the same time they are quite fragile; damaging and cutting them with a shovel is easy. And without them, feeding the seedling is impossible.

Anyone who decides to dig up a cedar in the forest should know that the plant has a very spreading root system located close to the top soil layer. The rhizome of a tree is much wider than its crown, so the diameter of digging the soil must be correctly calculated.

It is recommended to use a formula according to which you need to measure the diameter of the cedar trunk and multiply this number by approximately 20. The earthen ball will be quite large, but at the same time transportable. Now you can understand why cedars need to be replanted at the age of five or six: replanting an adult tree is a very labor-intensive process.

When digging, you may encounter the problem of severe soil shedding. The fact is that conifers can be sown on their own without permission. sandy soils, the integrity of which is impossible to maintain. In order to transplant such a tree, it is necessary to dig it in autumn time, when the weather is still warm, and do not pull it out of the ground. Then you need to wait until the air temperature drops to -5°C and only then remove the tree along with the frozen soil around its roots.

Important! It is necessary to take care not only of digging, but also of proper transportation of the cedar: it is important that during transportation the soil does not crumble and expose the roots. Also make sure that the lobe roots are not damaged.

Sapling from the nursery

Due to the low survival rate of forest cedars, it is best to purchase seedlings from specialized nurseries so as not to transfer the trees and thereby cause damage to the environment. Give preference to plants with a closed root system, that is, buy seedlings in special containers. Even if the sprout is sold without a container, it must be with an earthen lump tied with burlap. Buying bare root plants will be a waste of money as they will not thrive in their new location.

In addition to the rhizome, pay attention to appearance young cedar: its needles should be green, without yellowness, the branches should be fresh and elastic. Inspect branches, shoots and needles to ensure there are no damage or dried parts. There must be growth buds at the tips of the branches of a healthy seedling. The optimal time to transplant cedar purchased from a nursery is early spring - early summer.

Important! If you doubt the integrity of the seller and are not sure whether he really offers you cedar seedling, look how many needles come out of one bunch. In cedar, their number is 5, in pine - only two.

Choosing a landing site

The success of growing cedar largely depends on the right choice seat. The tree prefers well-lit, open and ventilated areas. It is important that the air is not polluted - the evergreen plant will not feel well, which will affect not only its decorative qualities, but also its growth and development indicators.

It is not recommended to plant cedar close to deciduous crops or alternate them - the plants will interfere with each other. It is better to group coniferous trees, and even more profitable - to plant 3–4 cedars together different varieties, keeping a distance of 8–10 meters. Planting varietal varieties is necessary for cross-pollination. In the resulting openings you can plant serviceberry, raspberry, and honeysuckle. But not currants or gooseberries; the culture does not like such a neighborhood.

The soil on the site must be fertile and nutritious, otherwise the tree will not grow to its natural parameters. The culture prefers loose and light, well-drained types of soil.

Did you know? The cedar is the national tree of Lebanon and is featured on its flag. No matter how paradoxical it may sound, there are practically no cedar trees left in the country due to massive cuttings.

If groundwater lie close to the top soil layer or the area may be flooded, then before planting the cedar, place a hill of soil at the selected location, 1 m high and 3 m in diameter. Place a seedling in the center of the hill.

Pit preparation and planting process

The procedure for planting cedar on permanent place consists of the following stages:

1. Digging a hole. Its parameters depend on the size of the earthen clod or container in which the seedling grows. The hole should be 10 cm deeper and 20 cm wider than the earthen ball.
2. Preparation of nutrient substrate. The soil mixture must include chernozem or peat, sand and clay in proportions of 3:3:1. Sand base for coniferous plants very important because it is responsible for water and breathability functions.
3. Placing a seedling in a new location. The plant that you purchased in a container must be watered before planting so that the lump of soil on the roots does not crumble while moving. The forest tree can be planted without moistening the soil ball.
4. Watering planted tree with 2-3 buckets of water.

A symbiote of pine trees, including cedar, are special mushrooms, the mycelium of which is located in the trunk circles of coniferous trees. The functions of the mycelium are to absorb useful substances from the soil that are necessary for the conifer to grow well, but it cannot obtain them on its own. Mushrooms are processed nutritional components and transport them to the root system of the tree.

In addition to mulching, cedar will also need timely watering. In order to understand whether a tree needs moisture, take a lump of soil and squeeze it in your fist: if the soil crumbles after you unclench your fingers, then the crop needs to be watered with 2-3 buckets of water.

Features of transplanting an adult tree

It is not recommended to replant an adult cedar: a large tree does not take root, and in most cases such an undertaking ends in the death of the plant. The culture belongs to the large-sized ones. The average height is 30–40 meters. Digging up and moving such a giant tree without special equipment is unrealistic. Even if you manage to dig up an adult tree, it will be almost impossible to deliver it to a new place, given that the lump of earth around the roots can weigh even more than a ton.

If you nevertheless decide on such an adventure and an adult cedar is delivered to your site, then you need to take care of preparing the planting hole, which is dug using an escalator. The size of the hole should be about half a meter larger than the dimensions of the earthen clod. You need to choose for planting the cedar that grew in a well-lit open area.

Did you know? Cedar is a long-lived tree: its age can reach 900 years.

Replanting cedar is a responsible undertaking. It is worth carefully familiarizing yourself with the rules for carrying out such a procedure so that the tree takes root and takes root. All your efforts will be rewarded: the tree will grow and delight more than one generation of the family not only with its decorative qualities, but also pleasant aroma resin and delicious pine nuts.

Cultures cedar pines are created by planting on partially cultivated soil (furrows, platforms, dumps) in spring, autumn and in the second half of summer (in areas with increased moisture in July-August). Cedar pines, being very shade-tolerant in the early years, nevertheless give better growth rates in conditions of sufficient lighting.

The intensity of growth and preservation of cedar crops is greatly influenced by grass competition. Experience in creating cedar in different forest conditions Central Siberia convincingly showed that increased growth and high preservation can be achieved only with care for 7-9 years.

IN optimal conditions growth and with intensive agricultural technology, already at the age of 15, Siberian pine plants reach a height of 3.5-5 m (F.L. Shchepotyev, A.A. Richter, F.A. Pavlenko, P.I. Molotkov, V. I. Kravchenko, A. I. Iroshnikov. Nut-fruit forest crops. M.: Forest Industry, 1978)

The beauty and severity of most coniferous trees cannot leave anyone indifferent - they very much coincide in mood with the appearance of our northern nature! In order to successfully grow coniferous trees in a garden plot (or behind its fence), you need to remember some mandatory rules.

Cedar seedlings, as well as other evergreen seedlings, must be planted with extreme caution. And it is better to use, if not available, a temporary garden bed for planting such seedlings. Dig up a section of the ridge to a depth of about 25–30 cm, adding peat and sand while digging. You can, without being lazy, visit a nearby spruce forest and collect some, preferably, rotted pine litter there. As a rule, it contains mycorrhiza, which is extremely necessary for better survival of young cedar seedlings.

When planting seedlings in the garden bed, you need to carefully straighten the roots. Coniferous litter should be added directly to the roots of the seedlings. Planted cedar fry need to be watered well, being careful not to bury them. Then, having insulated the soil around the plants with fallen leaves, you should cover the top of the plantings with spruce branches. IN winter period It is advisable to insulate the seedlings with snow. And for permanent “residence”, transplant cedar seedlings into autumn period next season.

How to save seedlings until spring

Can be purchased planting material cedar and do not plant before winter, but save the seedlings until spring, burying them for the winter. To do this, you need to dig a groove 20 centimeters deep. Then put cedar seedlings in it at an angle and carefully straighten the roots of the plants. Under top part seedlings need to be placed on the ground with spruce branches. Then sprinkle the cedar plantings with soil up to the middle of the trunk. The top should be covered with either dry leaves or the same spruce branches. In winter, seedlings placed in storage can be additionally insulated with snow. And in the spring, immediately after the soil on the site has thawed for planting, it is advisable to plant the seedlings in the ground.

How to preserve seedlings in winter

If autumn planting and digging for the winter, for some reason, did not materialize, it is quite possible to preserve seedlings until spring in this way. It is necessary to plant the seedlings in a box or pots with soil consisting of spruce litter, sand, peat and garden soil in a ratio of 0.5:1:1:2. Then you should place the container with the plants on an insulated veranda or balcony (it is advisable that storage occurs at a positive temperature of 3–5 degrees). It is often not necessary to water cedar seedlings, as a rule, only when the planting soil has dried out significantly.

And if you can provide young plants with such storage conditions, then you will not have any problems with how to preserve cedar seedlings until spring.

Cedar – quite large evergreen, which not only decorates and ennobles the landscape, but also significantly improves air quality. The phytoncides that Cedar produces have a beneficial effect on the surrounding atmosphere, and in addition, Cedar is a plant that produces a very healthy and nutritious product - pine nuts. With the right approach, artificial cultivation of Cedar leads to a significant increase in its yield - five or more times compared to wild trees. Since it is difficult to buy ready-made Siberian Cedar seedlings, we will tell you how you can independently grow cedar from a nut at home.

Growing in the garden

At first glance, such an unpretentious tree is actually quite difficult to plant and grow on your own. This species of the conifer family is perhaps the most difficult to breed at home. The reason for this is cedar seeds, which are characterized by deep dormancy. They germinate only after careful preparation, which lasts at least three, or even four months.

Cedar trees grow rather slowly - during the first ten years, their growth rarely exceeds one and a half meters. As it develops, growth accelerates and by the end of the third decade, the tree already has a height of about 9 - 10 meters and is shrouded in dense lush crown, approximately three meters in diameter.

We select and prepare seed material

Before growing cedar from seeds, first of all, you need to prepare seed material, and for this you can do the following:

• Select high-quality seeds - nuts. Here, the first thing to take into account is their germination period - about three years, but it is better to plant seeds that are no more than 2 years old. When selecting nuts, be sure to carefully inspect them for damage - shell cracks, dents, rottenness, mold and an unpleasant odor clearly indicate a defect. Such seeds are no good - they will not sprout;
• Selected, healthy seeds must be treated with an antifungal compound. To do this, just prepare a light manganese solution - 0.5% and soak the nuts in it for several hours.

Stratification of pine nuts

For three days, the nuts are soaked in settled water, room temperature. The water needs to be replaced with new water every day and the condition of the seeds monitored. During this period, healthy seeds gain moisture and settle to the bottom, while those unsuitable for planting - empty - remain on the surface. They are removed and thrown away. Then do this:

• Good seeds are again treated with a solution of potassium permanganate;
• Prepare the feeding substrate. You can use a mixture of sand and peat in a ratio of 2/1;
• Seeds are added to the finished substrate, moistened to approximately 50% and mixed until uniform consistency;
• Place in a cool place. At home, this is a refrigerator or cellar, and if possible, then outside under the snow cover.

At this stage, it is extremely important that the feeding substrate is constantly moistened. If the seeds are placed under snow, you do not need to do anything, there will be enough moisture, but if cultivation is carried out at home, you will have to monitor the humidity yourself and regularly water the seed substrate.

Sowing pine nuts in the ground

Cedar seeds take quite a long time to germinate. Even if everything is done correctly, you shouldn’t wait for seedlings to emerge sooner than six months later, and before planting in open ground you need to let the seedlings get stronger a little.

Prepared seeds are planted in the spring. The best time for this is April. During this period, you should especially carefully monitor the temperature. Most optimal temperature environment about 20°C, plus or minus a few degrees, no more.

Before sowing, the seeds, cleared of the substrate, are once again treated with potassium permanganate and slightly dried, then planted in a greenhouse or greenhouse. This will protect the crops from sudden temperature changes and birds that are not averse to eating cedar nuts. Among other things, greenhouse conditions provide a higher percentage of germination and an almost twofold increase in growth rate compared to seeds planted in open ground.

Before sowing, you need to prepare the soil. It would be best to make a sand-peat mixture fertilized with superphosphate, potassium compounds and charcoal.

Seeds are sown in furrows with minimal gaps between them - 15 centimeters. After about one and a half to two months, the seeds germinate and at this time they need to be provided with natural light, but only diffused. Direct sunlight can kill weak shoots.

Transplanting seedlings into open ground

As the seedlings grow, they take on the shape of a poker. At this moment, they are carefully removed and sorted by height and transplanted to another place, after slightly trimming the roots. When transplanting, each seedling must be provided with at least 0.2 square meters of free soil.

The next year, another, similar transplant of seedlings is carried out and only in the fourth year of life the Cedar will be strong enough to transplant it to the open area of ​​a personal plot, park or alley.

Sowing seeds directly into the ground

This can be done in spring or late autumn, but the germination rate of such seeds is very low - the chance is no more than 10% of the total number. In addition, it is worth considering that birds and rodents can significantly thin out the crops even before the emergence of seedlings. Therefore, ground sowing of Cedar seeds must be covered on top with a layer of leaves or broken bark, at least 5–7 centimeters thick.

To protect such crops, some gardeners arrange quite complex designs– stretch the mesh on top, and install protective fences on the sides from wooden shields. And even such measures do not guarantee the inviolability of crops, especially from rodents, so before open sowing Cedar, think carefully about whether such a game is worth the candle.

Caring for young cedar

Seedlings growing in a greenhouse begin to gradually adapt to open conditions– regularly taken out into the garden if they grow in pots or open a greenhouse.

It is imperative to regularly loosen the nutrient substrate and maintain its moisture, and if foci of fusarium appear, which often happens, immediately treat them with a solution of potassium permanganate. If this does not help, it is better to remove the diseased seedlings and plant others in their place.

Pay special attention to watering. It should be regular, but moderate. The seedlings cannot tolerate drying out at all and quickly die. If you overfill them, nothing good will happen either - root rot will appear and the plant will die.

When can a seedling be planted in a permanent location?

Growing Cedar from seeds is not an easy task and it takes quite a long time, so if you don’t have patience, it’s better not to try it at all.

The first 2 - 3 years, the plants are spent under the shelter of a greenhouse, then they are gradually accustomed to natural conditions and only in the fourth year and only on condition that they have developed sufficiently, small Cedars can be transplanted into open ground for the winter.

Throughout this period, it is necessary to water, fertilize and protect the plant in a timely manner from frost, cold winds and scorching sun rays. For the winter, you should thoroughly insulate the root system with a layer of foliage, bark or dry peat chips, and if the winter is very frosty, you will even have to wrap the tree trunk.

Starting from the fourth year of life, seedlings are not transplanted until they are 6–7 years old. This age is considered sufficient for the tree to be fully prepared for final transplantation to a permanent place of growth.

A year before such a transplant, the root system is prepared. To do this, horizontally growing roots are cut around the tree with a sharp bayonet shovel, limiting their length to 50 - 60 centimeters, measured from the trunk. Cedar will better tolerate such trauma before transplantation in its usual place, which is why such a seedling overwinters and is only transplanted in the spring.

Young Cedars should grow in partial shade, so if there is no shade in the garden, the trees are artificially shaded using special materials, otherwise direct sunlight can lead to burns of the plant and its disease. During this period, it is especially important to maintain the necessary soil moisture, so it is good to mulch the soil around the trunk.

When transplanted to a permanent place of growth, the cedar requires enough free space for normal development. If you want to achieve fruiting, minimum area for one tree about 7 meters in diameter.

Cedar is an evergreen coniferous tree that can live up to 500 years; it reaches a height of 45 meters and a diameter of 180 cm. Cedar seedlings can be transplanted from early spring (as soon as the soil thaws) to early May, or from late September to late October, shortly before frost.

Cedar seedlings can be obtained from a nursery or brought from a forestry department, where they can only be dug up with a permit. The best seedlings will be those dug up from sunny places– they are strong, stocky and after transplantation they will not suffer from bright sun. Before digging up a cedar, a fabric ribbon is tied on its southern branch in order to correctly orient the seedling in the north-south direction when planting.

At the age of one year, the seedling reaches a height of 4 cm, and its roots are about 20 cm long - such seedlings are sold in nurseries, in pots with special soil. If a seedling is purchased in winter, it is kept until spring on a cold balcony, in an unheated greenhouse, or left outside, buried in the snow. A seedling brought in in the summer is placed outside, in the shade, until planting; the pot is turned with the label to the south; The crown is sprayed with a spray bottle as often as possible.

If the seedling stands on a glazed balcony in the summer, then the window to the street should be constantly open, and the soil in the pot should be constantly moist. A wide bowl of water is placed next to the seedling to maintain the required level of humidity for the crown.

In forestry areas it is better to purchase seedlings aged 2 - 5 years; dig up the seedling carefully so as not to damage the roots, and it is more convenient to do this together. First, they dig in the tree at a distance of 30 - 40 cm from the trunk (depending on the age of the cedar), then they undermine the soil in depth, freeing the roots with their hands. The central root must be completely freed, then place the seedling with a lump of earth on cellophane, moisten the soil and tie the bag well so that the soil does not crumble. At the same time, cedar needles from the soil are collected into bags. The seedling is planted on the same day.

If you plan to obtain seeds from the cedar, then you need to dig up several seedlings from different places: cedar is a cross-pollinated plant, and good nuts can only be expected if there is no inbreeding during pollination.

For replanting, choose an open, well-ventilated place with fertile soil (cedar does not like to grow on sand). It is not recommended to plant cedar near large enterprises, since it is very picky about air pollution. If cedar is planted in the garden, then the distance to currant and gooseberry bushes should be at least 8 m, the distance to buildings - more than 3 m.

Cedars are planted in groups of 3 - 4 trees; the distance between trees is 5 - 8 meters. Between them you can plant honeysuckle, shadberry, raspberries or low-growing fruit trees. It is very useful to sow lupine - it will supply the soil with nitrogen, which will speed up the time of fruiting of cedars.

For planting, dig a hole 60x60x60 cm, loosen its bottom half a bayonet and pour humus, peat, a handful of ash, pine needles and upper layer fertile soil - this mixture should occupy one third of the depth of the hole. The components are mixed, half a bucket of water is poured out and the seedling is placed on this pillow. One person should hold it vertically, so that the root collar is level with the ground surface. The second person will cover the roots of the seedling with soil, carefully compacting it around the trunk with a shovel and trampling it along the perimeter of the hole with his foot.

After planting, the seedling is watered; the root circle is mulched with a thick layer of humus or peat and pine needles. In the future, its watering should be constant so that the soil does not dry out. Simultaneously with watering, you can apply mineral fertilizers, and in the spring - organic fertilizers. In subsequent years, watering and fertilizing are carried out along the perimeter of the crown.

When replanting, a seedling growing in a pot is carefully removed without damaging the roots and placed in a prepared hole. All other steps are performed in the same order as when transplanting wild seedlings. But it is recommended to protect seedlings from pots from exposure to direct sun rays: They can be fenced with wooden bars or covered with fabric.

If the seedling takes root well, its needles will be dark green, and the growth per year will be 5 - 10 cm.

Lara, thank you for sending me to metabot. I haven’t found anything about transplantation yet, but I came across other interesting information, I think it will be interesting not only to me, I quote excerpts:

Description
Coniferous, evergreen, large slender, light-loving tree up to 40 m high. One of the most ancient trees of the pine family (about 100 million years old), reaches the age of 400 years, although cedar trees aged 200-250 years are more common. IN favorable conditions cedar lives up to 800 years; up to 80 years old, it actively takes moisture from the soil, after 80 years it releases it.
Roots
Growing on late-thawing soils, cedar forms a powerful, but superficial root system. In such conditions, its roots are very long, creating large area supports. In addition, in such conditions, the root systems of neighboring cedars grow together, which significantly increases their wind resistance.
Moisture resistance
In waterlogged soils with a well-developed moss cover, cedar often forms adventitious roots. In this adaptability to waterlogged soils it is surpassed only by Gmelin's larch. This allows it to grow on soils of very different mechanical composition, thickness, trophicity and moisture availability.
Shade tolerance
In terms of shade tolerance, cedar is second only to Siberian fir and superior to Siberian spruce. Its shade tolerance, like that of other tree species, decreases with age, especially strongly during the period of seed production, and depends on the characteristics of growing conditions. On more fertile and optimally moistened soils, the shade tolerance of cedar increases, and on poor and dry soils it decreases. It also decreases with increasing absolute altitude of the area.
Places of growth
At the northern limit of its distribution in humid and cold climates, Siberian pine is sensitive to soil frost and occupies heated slopes with drier soils. On the contrary, in conditions of sufficient heat supply in the southern regions, cedar chooses the coldest and therefore better moistened habitats. Cedar is demanding of high relative air humidity, especially in winter. In this it is similar to Siberian fir, from which it differs significantly in other environmental properties. This exactingness is due to the very large surface of the needles of cedar and fir. Therefore, cedar cannot grow in places with a dry climate, which limits its expansion into the forest-steppe.

After reading this, I am tormented by vague doubts... Maybe it was a glitch - about the fact that the cedar woke up. Maybe he is still sleeping, like the oak tree, which is also long-lived, and which in the spring remains in a preserved state the longest. My oak trees haven’t even buds yet. Lyubov Fedorovna, how do you assess the condition of your own cedars: are they sleeping now or no longer? Yes, here some very unexpected information has surfaced about the roots... The roots of the cedar, it turns out, are superficial...

Long-lasting cedar pines will decorate the lives of several generations of people, so creating plantings from them imposes a certain moral responsibility on landscapers for the artistic and landscape level of the compositions being formed.

This is why the placement of trees on a site should not be random. It requires skilled performance of a number of works.

Before planting, it is necessary to draw up a layout of trees and landscape groups in accordance with the aesthetic requirements and ecological and biological characteristics of the species. When developing working drawings for parks and squares, where a strict regime of movement must be observed, each tree planting point in accordance with the dendrological plan is tied to linear elements of the area - the axis of the paths, the line of the side stone, the fence, the dimensions of buildings and structures. If they are absent, straight baselines are drawn on the plan, which are taken into reality before planting with the help of tools.

Special landscape planting schemes are being developed for forest parks. They depict a square plot of a conditional forest park area measuring 40×40, 50×50 or even 60×60 m. Planting points of trees and shrubs are placed on the site, combined into separate artistic compositions - landscape groups. Several schemes can be designed for a forest park, differing in the volume of plantings and the nature of the combinations various types cedar pines with each other and with other tree and shrub species, providing increased contrast and colorfulness of the created landscape compositions.

The developed schemes are transferred to reality. In full accordance with them, landing points are installed in the selected area. In their place, stakes are driven in indicating the type and height tree species and bushes. Then holes are dug in their place required sizes and make a landing.

The place for the permanent growth of cedar pines must be carefully selected taking into account the moisture and fertility of the soil. They grow best on loamy or sandy loam, fairly moist, well-drained, aerated soils.

Large plants are planted in holes, the size of which should be 30% larger than the volume of the root systems of the seedlings. For the normal development of anchor roots that penetrate deeply into the soil, large holes should be dug under large cedars round shape, at least 1-1.8 m wide and 60-90 cm deep.

The lower infertile layer (clean washed sand, etc.) is removed. It is replaced with fertile soil taken from the upper horizons, mixed with 2-3 buckets of humus, compost, rotted manure or peat. It is advisable to add a little (0.5 liters by volume) forest soil from the upper horizon of a cedar, pine, fir or oak plantation to this substrate. It contains mycorrhiza - a symbiosis of a fungus and a root, an interweaving of fungal hyphae around sucking roots. It promotes the effective absorption of ash elements and nitrogen by cedar plants, improves their moisture supply due to an increase in the absorption surface of the roots, and, when dying, enriches the soil with organic matter. All this improves the survival rate and accelerates the growth of cedar pines.

It is recommended to dig holes and fill the bottom with substrate in advance. During spring planting - better in autumn previous year. In open for a long time In pits, the soil will fluff up better and become more permeable to roots, which increases the survival rate of seedlings. Over the long winter months it will become denser, which will not allow the tree planted in the spring to settle much.

The best time to plant cedar pines is early spring, from the melting of the snow cover to the swelling of the buds. At this time, plants are at rest or at the beginning of awakening, growth processes in them are slowed down. This is why they can more easily withstand transplant stress: they take root well and maintain normal growth and development. Transplanting plants into more late dates, from the beginning of the growing season until the elongation of young shoots by 4-6 cm, guarantees good survival rate only if the integrity of the cedar root system with a dug-out clod of earth is maintained, but invariably leads to a decrease in growth and a decrease in the length and thickness of needles on the shoots of the current year. By sharply reducing the assimilation surface of the needles, cedar is protected from evaporation large quantity moisture. An established plant has already next year needles of normal size are restored.

In moisture-rich areas of Central Russia, successful spring planting cedar pines are possible within no more than 2-3 weeks after the soil thaws and in the presence of cool weather. In the forest-steppe zone of the Central Black Earth Region, with high temperature air they must be completed in 10-14 days.

A good survival rate of cedar is observed in moisture-supplied areas of the forest zone in late summer: from the end of shoot growth (from mid-July) until the end of August, but only in years with increased precipitation during these periods or with regular watering.

In autumn, when air temperatures are positive, it is not recommended to replant cedar pines. In conifers, photosynthesis continues at a fairly low value (up to -5°C). Numerous needles on dug-out plants constantly evaporate moisture, the loss of which cannot be compensated by the weakened excavation. root system. As a result, the tree dies from drying out.

Sometimes they practice replanting cedars in winter with a frozen clod of earth. At sufficiently low air temperatures (from -10°C and below) they are at rest. At this time, neither the root system nor the needles are actively functioning, i.e. the plant does not lose moisture. This ensures good survival rate if all necessary requirements during planting and with timely filling and additional compaction of the soil around the trees after it thaws. It should be kept in mind that winter transplant Planting cedars is quite labor-intensive: it takes a few hours to hollow out a frozen clod of earth around large trees.

It is necessary to dig up large plants with a clod of earth. Its size and volume depend on the height of the cedar. A guideline for determining the diameter of the coma can be the width of the tree crown: the length of the lateral roots, as a rule, coincides with its projection. This is the optimal line along which they should be cut off. Excavated cedars with a clod of smaller diameter take root much worse.

Depending on the age of the tree, a round ball of earth can be from 0.4 to 1.5 m in diameter and 0.4-0.7 m in height. It crumbles less, remaining quite dense, when dug up immediately after the snow cover melts, when the ground has not yet completely thawed, and also loamy soil. On light, fine sandy loams, before digging up trees, the soil under them should be thoroughly watered. This will reduce its shedding. To maintain the strength of the connection between the soil and the root system during transportation and to protect it from drying out, the lump of earth must be wrapped in film or a damp, durable cloth and tied tightly. In some cases, a coarse mesh is used - chain-link.

Before planting, a mound of fertilized substrate is poured in the middle of the hole: up to half the height of the hole, prepared in the fall, and up to the ground level - freshly dug. Its height should be such that the root collar of the cedar, after settling the soil, is at the level of the ground surface. To do this, when planting, it should be 3-5 cm higher. Place the plant on the mound, straighten the roots (they should not bend!). An even, strong stake with a diameter of at least 5 cm and a height of at least 1 m is driven between them.

The remaining substrate is used to fill the entire space between the roots and the walls of the pit, and the soil is compacted so that there are no voids between them. To prevent swaying, which does not allow the roots to firmly connect to the ground and function normally, seedlings are tied to a stake. In areas with strong winds, large cedars are secured with guy wires on three sides to stakes driven at equal intervals from each other around the tree. To prevent the rope from cutting into the trunk, apply a sleeve made of hard material(rubber, strong plastic, etc.).

Regardless of weather conditions, planted cedars are watered, carefully, without eroding the soil, pouring 2-3 buckets of water under the tree into the circle around the trunk. In the absence of rain, watering is repeated once a week, more often in the forest-steppe zone. Improves survival rate root feeding aqueous solutions of growth stimulants - succinic acid and etc.

After watering, the surface of the tree trunk circles is sprinkled (mulched) with loose soil, compost or peat. This reduces moisture evaporation.

Care consists of regularly loosening the soil in the tree trunk circles, which activates the vital activity of the roots and the normal development of plants.

To form a symmetrical, evenly developed multi-tiered crown, remove side shoots striving to take a leading position. In graftings, pruning regulates the normal subordination of the length of the branches, the diameter of the central trunk of the rootstock and the scion, which is normal for a certain crown shape. Disproportionately long side branches are shortened along the border of the crown width, pruning 1-2 cm above the annual whorl.

As plants age, their demands on nutritional conditions increase. To maintain high decorative properties cedar pines, which are largely determined by normal foliage, uniform growth of central and lateral shoots, as well as for regular seeding, it is recommended to apply complete mineral fertilizer(nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium). The addition of organic matter is allowed. The soil under cedars must be constantly moist throughout their entire life.

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