Proper installation of the ceiling in a private home is the key to comfort. Filing a rough ceiling in a private house on wooden beams Fitting a ceiling on wooden beams with insulation

Ceiling filing possible different materials: solid, foam, OSB, PVC and plasterboard boards, clapboard, board, etc. Mistakes are often made when independent work. When I got to work, questions immediately arose: what is the best way to hem the ceiling? Which material is better? What are the subtleties of the work? Let's look at the basic rules when doing hemming.

Do-it-yourself ceiling lining

Surface preparation

When covering foam boards It is important to prepare and level the surface. You can’t work hastily, skimping on glue, without removing dirt from the surface, without treating it with a primer, after which the tiles fall behind, they glue them back, spreading more glue, without learning from their mistakes.
But you shouldn’t do this, especially since, having spent money once on thoroughly preparing the surface, we can safely mount it on it. various designs, being confident in the reliability of the foundation.
Without preparation, we will have to check every time, or randomly install structures, hoping that everything will be fine, the neighbors may not flood, and the tiles may not fall off. I always carefully prepare the surface, fill in defects, and have never regretted it.

You can’t work hastily, skimping on glue.

Lining the ceiling with foam boards

I often line ceilings with this material due to ease of installation, accessibility, good sound insulation, and a room with such a ceiling will be warmer.
The main mistake is the lack of primer and putty; the tiles are carelessly stuck to a layer of dust, after which they soon fall behind along with a thin layer of dark dust, which is visible on back side, this is because there was no primer to seal the top layer, creating an additional barrier for waterproofing. We will learn from other people's mistakes and do the installation correctly.
For installation it is better to use acrylic glue Anyone who has ever tried to replace it with a standard one will never give it up.
It is also quite possible to hem with other materials. But it should be borne in mind that the principle of fastening the sheathing and building the frame is not much different when replacing the sheathing.

Lining the ceiling with foam boards

Filing frame ceilings

Note that false and suspended ceilings differ in distance from the base; suspended ceilings are used for rooms with high ceilings. Hemmed - on the contrary, with low ones, so as not to steal precious space.

There are 2 types of binders:

1. Without a frame, when the material is mounted to the ceiling.
2. With a frame, when the filing is mounted to the sheathing.

Lining the ceiling without a frame with plywood

The frame can be wooden or metal, the first is used to save material, improve sound insulation, in short areas with constant temperature and normal humidity it is more advisable to use wooden frame.
The metal is durable; it is often used on large surfaces to increase strength; it is a prerequisite for wet rooms. The frame steals 5–6 cm, which is less than suspended ceilings, but also more than suspended ceilings.
For differences of more than 3-4 cm, I recommend using a hemming frame. In terms of technology, it will be much simpler and faster than plastering, although the costs are approximately the same, but it is more economical and faster than a suspended ceiling, with less expense and stolen space.

The filing is mounted to the sheathing

Tape is used to seal the joints between the walls and drywall; we should not forget that for drywall it is very important not to secure it rigidly around the perimeter to the walls, baseboards or stucco; the ceiling must be free to avoid deformation.

When choosing a lining, it should be taken into account that drywall has a lower price than lining or plaster, but it is less durable, it will have to be changed every 3-4 years; those who are not ready for such sacrifices should opt for PVC or lining.

Installation of PVC panels

In this method, it is quite possible to place thermal insulation under the sheathing. A wooden frame with a cross section of 20 by 40 mm is attached to the " quick installation»or self-tapping screws, depending on the material under the sheathing.

Installation procedure:

• The slats are located perpendicular to the direction of installation of the panels, at a distance of 40 cm from each other;
• The spaces between the fastenings at the locations are reinforced lighting fixtures with two additional beams running across the existing ones and attaching them to the ceiling and to the sheathing with self-tapping screws;
• Then a fastening strip having an angle of 90 degrees is fixed around the perimeter; ceiling plinth, which is fixed at the beginning, the first panel fits into the groove between the strip and the plinth; we attach corners to the strip on the sides for attaching the plinth and strips;
• We make holes in the places where the lighting fixtures are attached and take out the wires; the lighting can be mounted on top of the panels, to the reinforcement.

Ceiling made of plastic panels

Cladding

It is necessary to dry the lining well before installation if it is damp. Before work, you should also install a vapor barrier film, carefully study the instructions so as not to mix up the sides, the joints are taped along the length with double-sided tape.

The rule is often neglected; it is extremely important to follow the recommendation in winter, when the material shrinks; if it is quickly fixed to the ceiling, this is fraught with a slightly convex surface, the appearance of cracks over time, which many attribute to poor-quality material, and everyone is then advised not to install such a binder, they say , I installed it, and it all burst.

Lining the ceiling with clapboard

Often craftsmen are faced with this problem: painted linings are often crooked, factories resort to such tricks to disguise imperfections.
I recommend that before installation, place the paneling edge-on on the floor, and see what the most curve is, and use it to bypass the lamps and other elements, so that they are straight in the center, and the curves are not noticeable. Also, an uneven hem can be used at the beginning or at the end, so that it is not too noticeable.
The lining is installed using nails 40 mm long. As practice shows, they are quite sufficient for reliable fixation, because the lining is light in weight.
In the case when the house is less than 2–3 years old, a gap between the lining and the walls is left in the region of 15–20 mm. During installation, it is important not to lose sight of the mounting locations for the lamps before final cladding. A similar scheme for lining the ceiling with boards, only the nails are selected depending on the thickness of the material.

Do-it-yourself ceiling lining with clapboard

After covering, it is recommended to treat the lining with one layer of primer or two layers of paint.
Hemming the ceiling is possible with other materials, it doesn’t matter what to hem the ceiling with, the main thing is to follow the technology correct installation various materials, they are mounted according to a similar principle. As my practice shows, these tips allow you to make a high-quality binder, using the entire resource of the material, replacing it only in case of extreme wear of the material.

Do-it-yourself ceiling cladding from A to Z

How to hem the ceiling in a private house, bathhouse, garage, country house or veranda is not an idle question, because after construction is completed, what remains is an ugly rough ceiling, that is, just a wooden floor made of bare beams and boards. But without quality ceiling The finishing, even in the utility room, cannot be considered complete, and hemming is an easy way to add aesthetics to the ceiling, and at the same time insulate it.

Important. A false ceiling should be distinguished from a suspended ceiling. Between the suspended and the ceiling, 8–10 cm of empty space is left, while the hemming is mounted almost close to the ceiling.

Rules for installing a suspended ceiling

1. Unlike concrete ceilings in a city apartment, wooden ceilings in a country house or dacha can be hemmed with almost any material, and beams can be beautifully incorporated into the interior.
2. Before starting work, the rough structure needs to be insulated and its air conditioning must be considered.
3. The ideal material for the bathroom is plastic, because it does not mold or rot at all.
4. Balconies are most often covered with plastic, metal slats or clapboard, because these materials are resistant to temperature changes.
5. Open verandas, gazebos, and terraces are sheathed with plastic or siding; slatted and cassette structures are suitable. Due to low moisture resistance, drywall is not suitable.
6. The bathhouse requires a moisture-resistant and heat-resistant finish. You cannot use resinous wood, plywood, chipboard, or plastic in the bathhouse. The most good choice there will be lining made of linden or aspen.

Rough ceiling before finishing stage

How to hem the ceiling

Tree

This is the most best material for finishing country house. Among its advantages are enviable durability, the ability to retain heat, beauty, the ability to give the room coziness and create a special microclimate. Materials in this group vary greatly in cost, so you can always choose something for both budget and luxury renovations.

• Plywood

Hemming with plywood requires knowledge of some nuances. Plywood (except laminated) must be treated with an antiseptic, only then will it last for decades. The frame is made from a block, and in such a way that the edges of the sheets fall on the block, otherwise they will sag. The sheets are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws, and the seams are puttied before painting the ceiling.

• Lining

Inexpensive lining has always been a popular material for cladding. The frame for securing regular and eurolining can be made from a metal profile or bar. The frame is installed perpendicular to the direction of the lining. The lining itself must first be allowed to sit indoors for at least 48 hours, otherwise there is a risk that it will dry out or swell.

Finishing the bathhouse with clapboard

• Boards

This is the most unpretentious way to hem the ceiling. A frame is not needed; the boards are nailed directly to the beams, perpendicular to them.

Ordinary boards can be amazingly good

• Plates and panels

Wood processing waste produces excellent finishing materials in the form of slabs and panels, all of which can be used to decorate the ceiling in a private home. OSB panels, fiberboard boards and MDF have excellent heat-insulating properties and are beautiful. Thanks to double- or single-sided lamination, they are easy to care for - just wipe them off from dust. The texture and color of the slabs and panels imitate natural wood, but are noticeably cheaper.

They weigh little, this allows you to install simple lightweight frames under them. Mounted on a pre-installed frame made of wooden beams. As with sheets of plywood, the joints should be on the block. Each slab is first nailed in the center and corners, then along the perimeter and in other places. The sheets have large area, at the same time they are flexible, so they need to be nailed down efficiently so that they do not sag over time.

MDF boards are well suited for finishing a country house

Plastic

Another inexpensive material that does not look as beautiful as wood, but has ideal resistance to dampness. Used in bathrooms, toilets, kitchens. Plastic ceiling– this is a smooth and even surface above your head without the cost of painting work. It is easy and quick to assemble, even alone, because the material is almost weightless and is made in the form of narrow panels that can be held in the hands of one person.

frame under plastic trim in wooden houses they are made from a bar 2.5–3.0 cm wide, on concrete ceilings - from metal guides. The frame pitch is 50 cm, the panels are fastened with self-tapping screws. Finally, around the perimeter of the ceiling they fix decorative plinth, covering the joints.

Metal slats

Slatted false ceilings are gaining popularity mainly due to the fashion for them. The slats can be metal (steel, aluminum) or “metal-like”. The great advantage of the material is complete fire safety, the disadvantage is the lack of heat and sound insulation. Maintenance consists of regular washing without abrasive materials, as scratching the slats is quite easy.

Rack design very quickly and technically assembled without fasteners, like children's designer, it is practically weightless. But still, in wooden houses it is better not to make such ceilings, but to hem them concrete floors.

Metal slats are not afraid of dampness and do not rot, but wooden floors under them they quickly deteriorate

Siding

A siding ceiling will look appropriate on the porch, open veranda, loggias or in the utility room, because it is traditionally considered a material for exterior finishing houses. After practicing on the ceiling of the veranda, you can then cover the outer walls of the house with siding yourself. This is a very durable and moisture-resistant material and has a large selection of colors and textures. Despite the operation under open air, retains color and strength for decades.

There is metal and vinyl siding. Vinyl, flexible and inexpensive, good for ceiling decoration. Simple installation on a proprietary profile and low weight make it possible to mount the panels on the ceiling alone. Vinyl siding can swell slightly due to temperature changes, so during installation you need to leave an extra centimeter around the perimeter of the ceiling. The easiest care is water plus any detergent.

They lined it with plasterboard and left the beams visible for decoration.

Drywall

Drywall is a recognized leader for the construction of false ceilings in any residential premises. They are used to decorate ceilings in seasonal country houses, houses with permanent residence, and in huge country houses, like an ancient castle. It has the only drawback - it is not moisture resistant enough, it warps and deforms from steam and dampness.

Advice: industry produces more expensive moisture resistant drywall for rooms with difficult microclimate.

The frame for plasterboard is made from a profile or bar 5x3 or 4x4 cm, the sheets are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. For a false ceiling, unlike a suspended ceiling, you do not need hanging mounts, mount the sheets directly onto the frame.

Video: filing with wooden beams

False ceilings do not “eat up” the height of the room. In a sense, they are easier to make than hanging ones, and the conditions of country life make it possible not to think too much about how to hem the ceiling, to use inexpensive materials that cannot be used in a city apartment.

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Ceiling in a private house: 13 steps to comfort and practicality

This article is about how to make a ceiling in a private house. In it I am going to touch upon the problems of choosing the height of the ceiling, its structure and the selection of materials for its installation and design. Let's get started.

Height

Minimum

1. What is the minimum possible ceiling height in a private house??

2.4 meters. By reducing the height even more, you will make living rooms frankly uncomfortable: the ceilings will literally put pressure on the inhabitants of the house, forcing them to constantly bend down.

By the way: already at a height of 2.4 - 2.5 meters, a person above average height will begin to cling to his head hanging chandeliers and lamps. Personally verified: with a height of 186 cm, it is quite difficult for me to move freely in a typical Khrushchev or Brezhnevka apartment with suspended light sources.

Optimum

1. What is optimal height ceiling in the house?

If we talk only about the subjective perception of the room - the more, the better. A tall room, even with a relatively small area, looks spacious. However, with significant ceiling heights in full height, excuse the involuntary pun, the heating problem arises.

Warm air tends upward, and in order to provide comfortable temperature at floor level, under the ceiling it will have to be heated to +30 +35C. Excessive air heating attic floor means an unjustified increase in heat losses: they are always proportional to the temperature delta with the street.

The problem can be solved in two ways:

• For convection heating (using or convectors) - limiting the ceiling height to approximately 2.7 meters. In my opinion, this height represents a reasonable compromise between comfort and heat savings;

Clue: standard height ceilings in new buildings are exactly this - 2.7 meters. In most houses of Soviet projects it is noticeably smaller - 2.6, 2.5 and even 2.45 m.

• In addition, heat distribution in a high room will be optimal in the case of a heated floor - water, cable or film. It will provide a comfortable temperature at the level of human height, without overheating the air near the ceiling.

By the way: in houses with second light there is a warm floor and infrared heaters in general, they are the only heat sources capable of providing comfortable temperature regime. When using convection heating, either heat at the second floor level or bitter cold below will be inevitable.

House with second light. The only reasonable heating method is underfloor heating.

Higher, even higher

1. How to increase the height of ceilings in the house?

If you have panel or monolithic reinforced concrete floors, you can only change the visual perception of the height of the room by using tools from the designers’ arsenal.

Which ones exactly?

• Light colors make objects appear further away than they really are. The effect is emphasized by the contrasting colors of surrounding objects. Simply put, if you paint the ceiling in White color, and make the walls dark - the room will look much larger than its actual size;

• The same effect can be achieved by playing with lighting. To increase the apparent height of the ceiling, it is hidden by lighting with spotlights or spotlights.

Floors on wooden beams provide much more space for actually increasing the height of the premises.

If the ceiling is hemmed from above along the bottom of the beams, it is worth removing the hemming (usually a board panel) and laying the flooring between the beams, along the cranial bars, or on top of them. Yes, and here the effect will be largely visual, since the beams will be only two to three centimeters higher than the old filing; however, the room will become much more spacious.

More radical way- physical increase in the height of the ceiling. To do this, alas, it is necessary to remove the roof, so the work should be timed to coincide with a major roof repair. The height of the walls increases due to several additional rows of masonry or new frame crowns laid on top of the walls.

The log house can also be raised on jacks by starting under it an additional one or two crowns.

Finally, in houses with floors on wooden beams, it is often practiced to dismantle them and lay an insulated screed on the ground. The disadvantage of this method is that windows and thresholds doorways will rise noticeably relative to the level of the finished floor.

How to raise ceilings this way?

• The floor is opened with complete dismantling of the flooring and insulation;

• Beams are cut off;
• The soil is removed and leveled;

The subfloor cannot be deepened below the foundation level. This is fraught with soil subsidence and wall deformation.

• A sand or sand-gravel cushion with a thickness of at least 10-15 centimeters is formed on the ground. It will ensure drainage and avoid freezing of the soil under the floor;
• A layer of waterproofing is spread over the sand, overlapping the walls (as a rule, dense polyethylene plays this role);
• Concrete preparation is laid on top - a cushion 8-10 centimeters thick made of low-quality (M-100 - M150) concrete;

• After it gains strength, a layer of insulation is laid on top - expanded polystyrene or polystyrene foam with a density of C-35. Thickness is determined by local climatic conditions. Usually it is 40-50 millimeters;
• On top of another layer of waterproofing film on stands 15 - 25 mm high, galvanized reinforcement mesh with a cell of 10-15 cm and a wire thickness of 5-6 mm;
• It is filled with a screed 8-10 cm thick. After it has gained strength and leveled the surface in any convenient way (self-leveling floor, plywood, etc.), the finishing coating can be laid.

Concrete should come into contact with the wood of the walls only through waterproofing. In her absence lower crowns the log frame or wall frame will quickly rot.

Materials and solutions

Reinforced concrete floors

1. What finishing options are used for slab and monolithic reinforced concrete floors??

The simplest (but not the cheapest) way to make the ceiling perfectly even is to order suspended ceiling. In Crimea, where I live, it will cost from 400 rubles per square meter. It is useful for the future owner to know several features of this solution:

• The minimum distance from the ceiling to the tension flow web is about 4 centimeters. Accordingly, the room will become, albeit slightly, lower;

• The tension force of the web is about 70 kgf per linear meter baguette, which is attached to the walls. Accordingly, all walls must have sufficient strength with respect to horizontal load. Plasterboard partitions are built with a reinforced frame, and the boxes multi-level ceilings made of plasterboard for fastening the baguette, reinforced with bevels from the profile;

• Glossy ceilings are made from the thinnest vinyl film. To tension it, the air in the room is heated with a gas heat gun to 65 - 75 degrees; After cooling, the canvas is stretched and made perfectly even.

Gloss visually makes the room taller due to the ghostly reflection of its interior, which is a definite plus. However, the thin film is not durable: it can even be damaged by a shot of a champagne cork;

• Matte fabric ceilings are cheaper and more durable than glossy ones. However, due to the peculiarities of joining the canvases, the seams remain visible on them;
• If you plan to hide hidden lamps under suspended ceilings, platforms for them and electrical wiring must be installed in advance. At the location of the lamp, a reinforcing ring is glued to the canvas, after which the fabric or film inside the ring is cut out.

The ceiling under the suspended ceiling should be pre-treated with antiseptic primer. A fabric that is impermeable to air will limit the ventilation of the surface of the slabs or monolith, and it is advisable that fungus does not take advantage of this.

How to finish reinforced concrete floor, if suspended ceilings are undesirable for some reason (for example, due to the small height of the room)?

The most obvious way is to level the ceiling with gypsum plaster (Rotband, HP Start, etc.) followed by puttying over fiberglass mesh.

In this case, do-it-yourself finishing is done like this:

• The ceiling is cleaned of whitewash and old plaster(of course, if they exist). This work is easiest to do with a hard steel spatula, first two or three times with small interval generously moisten the surface with water using a spray bottle or a wide brush;
• U slab floor cut (cleaned from cement mortar old stuff) seams. Tools - chisel and hammer or small pick;
• The entire surface of the ceiling is primed with adhesive primer (concrete contact) with the addition of an antiseptic;
• Beacon profiles are attached to the ceiling level, in one horizontal plane. To attach them, it is better to use building plaster rather than plaster or putty - it sets in 3-7 minutes, and not in 30-40;
• The plaster is thrown or spread onto the ceiling with a medium trowel or rectangular trowel. After the 1-1.5 meter long section between the profiles is filled, the excess is removed using a long rule. As a rule, you will have to go through each section several times, with re-filling the gaps;

The layer of plaster should not be thicker than 3 cm. If the differences between the floor slabs exceed this value, it is better to choose a suspended or suspended ceiling.

• After drying the plaster, we move on to puttying. Gypsum putty(personally, I liked ABS Saten the most) apply a narrow (10-12 cm) spatula to a medium (30-35 cm) spatula and spread it onto the ceiling with sliding movements in the thinnest possible layer.

After puttying a section 1 - 1.5 meters long, a sheet of reinforcing fiberglass mesh with a cell size of about 2 mm is pressed into the putty with the same spatula. The second layer of putty covers the fiberglass mesh, completely hiding its texture;

• The last stage is sanding. I use an inexpensive oscillating sander for this purpose with #80 and #120 sanding grids for the first and second passes respectively.

The ceiling should be sanded under oblique lighting, emphasizing the slightest irregularities, and with the obligatory use of personal protection- glasses and a respirator or gauze bandage. Gypsum dust severely irritates the mucous membranes of the eyes and nasopharynx.

1. Which ceiling is better to install in a room with high humidity - a bathroom, toilet or combined bathroom?

Here are the types of finishes that are most resistant to dampness:

• The suspended ceilings I have already mentioned;
• Plaster ceilings using cement mixtures. The technology for their application is no fundamentally different from gypsum. If the plaster high humidity soaks and becomes plastic, then the cement completely retains its mechanical properties;

To level the surface of the plaster, use putty on white cement. It will show through the paint much less.

• Suspended - from wall and ceiling plastic panels.

1. How to build a ceiling from panels?

For this you will need:

• Ceiling guide profiles UD (27x28 mm) with total length, equal to the perimeter of the room with a small margin for trimming;
• CD ceiling profiles (60x27 mm) with a length equal to or greater than the length or width of the room (they come in 3- and 4-meter lengths). Their number should allow the installation of the sheathing with a pitch of no more than 60 centimeters - with a larger sheathing pitch plastic panels will sag within 1 - 1.5 years;

Hint from the Captain Obvious: the sheathing is mounted perpendicular to the panels. Maximum length panels can reach 6 meters, so they are usually oriented parallel to more long wall rooms.

• Direct hangers are attached along each ceiling profile in increments of no more than 80 cm;
• For their fastening and for mounting the ceiling guide profile, dowels are used - screws 6x60 - 8x80 mm;
• The profiles are connected to each other and to the hangers using metal screws 9 mm long. Using the same self-tapping screws, but already 25 mm long, they are hemmed to the panel profiles;
• The suspended ceiling itself is assembled from polyvinyl chloride wall or ceiling panels maximum available width with seamless tongue-and-groove locks;

Opt for white glossy panels. They are visually almost indistinguishable from a glossy stretch ceiling; at the same time, they are much stronger and extremely easy to clean: the surface can be wiped with a damp sponge and any non-abrasive detergent.

• To edge the ceiling and to hide its junction with the walls, you can use vinyl, polyurethane or foam baseboard. The latter is the cheapest and easiest to install: it can be glued to walls and ceilings using any universal glue, sealant or acrylic putty.

Preparation of the ceiling surface is reduced only to treatment with antiseptic primer: a suspended ceiling, like a suspended ceiling, will sharply worsen its ventilation and can lead to fungal infection.

The construction of the ceiling is carried out in the following order:

• Along the perimeter of the room in a horizontal plane, a ceiling guide profile is attached to the wall. Fastening step - 50 - 60 cm;
• The position of the ceiling profiles is marked perpendicular to the panels on the ceiling;
• Along each of them, in increments of 80 cm, straight hangers are attached with dowel-screws;
• Ceiling profiles, cut to size using metal scissors, are inserted into the guides and pressed against the ceiling with the ears of the hangers bent inward;
• Several threads are stretched between the guide profiles, which will serve as guides for installation of ceiling profiles in one plane. Each of them is lowered until it touches the thread, after which the ears of the suspensions are attracted to it with metal screws. The free part of the ears bends upward;
• Ceiling profiles are screwed to the guides;

• The first panel, cut to fit the ceiling, is attached parallel to one of the walls.

Hint: The easiest way to cut PVC is with a grinder and any abrasive disc. And in this case, eye and respiratory protection is important: fine plastic dust evenly fills the entire volume of the room and settles very slowly.

• The panel is attached to the profile on minimum distance from the wall with self-tapping screws passing through. On the other side of the panel, self-tapping screws attract the protrusion of its tongue-and-groove lock to the profile;
• The next panel is inserted into the lock first, after which its protrusion is also attracted to the ceiling profile with self-tapping screws - and so on across the entire width of the room;
• The last panel is again secured with self-tapping screws passing through it at a minimum distance from the wall. The fastener caps will be hidden by the ceiling plinth;
• The plinth is glued last, after the finishing of the walls is completed.

Beam floors

1. What is a rough ceiling on beams made of??

Here are the basic materials for filing a rough ceiling:

• Trimming and unedged board. A plank board is usually used to lay insulation on it. The board can either be hemmed to the beams from below, or laid between them, on the cranial bars;

• tongue and groove board;
• Plywood 10 - 18 mm thick (depending on the pitch between the beams);
• OSB of the same thickness.

1. What to make from finished ceiling ?

Here are the finishing materials that can be used for this purpose:

• Plasterboard and gypsum fiber sheet;

It is better to use not GVL, but gypsum board. Even if the sheet breaks during transportation or installation, it can be used: the fragments of the gypsum core will be held in one plane by a kraft paper shell. It is enough just to securely fasten the plasterboard in the area of ​​damage.

• Wooden lining;
• Plastic wall panels already familiar to us;
• Plywood. Yes, yes, it can serve as a decorative finishing coating. Plywood cut into squares is varnished; The gaps between adjacent sheets are closed with strip strips painted in a contrasting color.

1. How to lay a rough ceiling using cranial blocks?

Its device is not complicated:

• On side surfaces the logs are filled with bars measuring 50x50 mm;
• A 20-25 mm thick edged board cut to length (depending on the distance between the joists) is laid on them;



You can just as easily hem the flooring wall panels. They are attached to the boards with self-tapping screws through the protrusions of the locks or sit on glue. The starting profile or plastic corner acts as the edging.

1. How to hem a board panel along the beams from below?

Each board is attached to the beam at the point where they intersect with two nails driven staggered (at an angle with a slope of different sides). This method of fastening will prevent the weight of the ceiling and insulation from tearing out the fasteners.

1. How to do wooden ceiling with your own hands from clapboard on beams?

The lining is fastened through clamps - galvanized steel shaped plates. It is better to fasten them to the beams with self-tapping screws. Clamps allow, if necessary, to disassemble the ceiling without damaging the lining.

A galvanized clamp is a simple device for fastening the tongue-and-groove lock of the lining to the sheathing.

Ceiling edging is traditionally done wooden baseboard. Transverse gaps between boards connected along their length are hidden with thin slats.

1. How to fix drywall?

It is attached to a solid board panel with self-tapping screws in increments of 20-25 centimeters. But when installing along beams or rafters (in the attic or attic) under gypsum boards or gypsum fiber boards, you will have to assemble the sheathing. I mounted it like this:

• Along the rafters with insulation laid between them (5 cm mineral wool and 5 cm of foam plastic with density C-25) was hemmed vapor barrier film. The goal is to prevent the insulation from getting wet and the rafters from rotting. A furniture stapler was used to file the film;

• Guide ceiling profile The UD was secured to the gables. In my case, they are panoramic windows, so the profile had to be attached directly to the plastic frames;
• Along the attic, a ceiling profile was attached to the rafters using direct hangers. At the junctions of the inclined and horizontal sections of the ceiling, two profiles were mounted next to each other;
• GKL sheets were fastened across the sheathing profiles. I used 12.5mm thick wall plasterboard instead of the thinner ceiling plasterboard as the bottom of the sloping sections of the ceiling are only 1.9m high and can be subject to mechanical stress. For fastening, phosphated self-tapping screws 25 mm long were used in increments of 15 - 20 cm;

• The seams were puttied with ABS gypsum putty and glued with rolled fiberglass mat mounted on PVA glue, after which they were covered with another layer of putty.

The way the ventilation of the space above the ceiling is arranged deserves special mention. From there, air is taken out by an exhaust fan through one of the gables of the attic; At its corners, four supply ventilation grilles are installed in the finished ceiling.

The photo shows grilles for ventilation of the space between the ceiling and the roof of the attic.

For painting plasterboard thread we used:

• In dry rooms - office and bedroom - latex water-dispersion paint, resistant to dry abrasion;
• In the bathroom - waterproof rubber paint on water based. It reliably protects the plasterboard from splashes of water and can be washed with any cleaning agents except abrasive ones. The texture of the painted surface is semi-gloss, with a slight shine.

Conclusion

Of course, in a relatively short article I did not mention everything possible solutions. The video in this article will help our dear reader learn more about how to cover a ceiling in a private house. I look forward to your comments and additions. Good luck, comrades!

In private construction, the question often arises: how to hem the ceiling along wooden beams? This principle of arrangement is used mainly in small houses and country houses, but the desire to do the work efficiently remains unchanged.

How the design works

To build interfloor covering or an attic, it is necessary to install supports and a rough ceiling made of boards. The first is timber with a large cross-section. If we consider a wooden ceiling layer by layer, it consists of the following parts:

• Support beams. They are placed at a distance from each other and form the base. They are pulled together by a smaller beam.
• Attic floor. This wood flooring, which separates the roof from the lower rooms.
• Waterproofing. Beams are protected from moisture using rolled or coating materials.
• Insulation. Saves from cold air coming from outside. The best option is mineral wool; polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam are also used.
• Vapor barrier. Membrane material, preventing the accumulation of condensate and optimizing the regulation of the microclimate in the house.
• Rough ceiling. This is a board, plywood or OSB board nailed to beams or additional sheathing.

This “pie” allows you to protect your home from dampness, cold and drafts, as well as place wiring, ventilation and other communications.

Replacement of old coating

When a house is built from scratch, the choice of material for lining is made at the design stage. It is more difficult to complete the work if there is a worn-out structure. In this case, it is first necessary to correct the deficiencies.

To prevent old beams from rotting and spoiling their appearance, you need to clean them of the darkened, dilapidated layer. To do this, the rough ceiling made of boards is dismantled to the base. The timber is cleaned and polished, and an additional antiseptic hydrophobic impregnation is applied. It will protect the tree from damage and insects.

Then it changes insulating material and insulation, if necessary.

You should not save or neglect this stage of work. It is better to reassemble the rough ceiling, since quality foundation is the key to a long service life of the structure.

Wood paneling

Let's look at ways to finish the ceiling. Of course, you can plaster the surface, but this looks less attractive. The standard option is lining with regular boards and clapboards. Nails or screws are used for fastening. It is first necessary to construct a frame from small cross-section planks, but you can fasten the material directly to the beams.

Wooden ceilings have a number of advantages:

• creating an atmosphere of comfort and warmth;
• naturalness and availability of the material;
• natural regulation of microclimate;
• free air exchange;
• a stylish solution for a country house.

Sometimes chipboard is also hemmed, but it is better to choose materials with additional moisture protection. OSB or plywood can be puttied and the seams reinforced with sickle. Subsequently, the ceiling is painted or covered with wallpaper.

Plastic

Many people settle on this simple and inexpensive material. The assortment allows you to select samples not only according to the standard color palette. Today there are panels on sale that imitate other materials, such as wood or leather. The surface is glossy or matte.

Plastic has the following advantages:

• availability;
• variety of colors;
• resistance to moisture and rot;
• easy to clean;
• simple installation;
• ease.

To install the plastic, it is enough to make a sheathing, and the sheathing sheets are joined offset along the rows.

But because appearance, which may deteriorate over time, it is better to choose another material.

Decorative panels

They are installed on a metal frame according to the principle of a hinged structure. Installing such a ceiling is quite easy to do with your own hands.

Exist the following types materials:

Tensile structures

One of best options, which protects the room from moisture and drafts, as a continuous layer is created - a suspended ceiling. When installing, the ceiling level is lowered by an average of 10 cm. The canvas can be combined in colors and also combined with plasterboard structures.

For such coating, textile and polymer materials are used. The surface can be glossy, matte, satin, as well as plain or contain a pattern. They are installed by heating and tensioning the fabric around the perimeter of the area.

false ceiling

Wooden beams do not have to be hidden; they can be effectively integrated into the interior.

To do this, the finished ceiling is installed directly on the primary cladding, and the insulation is laid to a depth or removed under the attic floor.

It is beneficial to use drywall or OSB boards. After installation, they are puttied, the beams are cleaned and primed. Paint is applied on top. It is acceptable to use stain or varnish to preserve the texture of the wood.

The problem of choosing what to hem a rough ceiling on wooden beams always arises in the process of constructing wooden log houses, timber buildings, frame cottages, dachas and even extensions to the main premises. You will need to select the material and method of installation on the ceiling base so as to ensure it reliable fastening to the supporting logs, and any shrinkage or deformation processes that accompany all wood structures did not lead to subsidence or deformation of the load-bearing structures.

Materials for filing floors

Wooden beams today remain a universal means of arrangement ceiling, they are light and durable, relatively easy to process, cut, and drill. Any type of fastener can be driven into wood to carry out installation work and installation does not require powerful lifting equipment.

But wooden beams, like any wood, with all their advantages, have two significant disadvantages:

• A beam or log, even if it has undergone careful processing, still remains susceptible to thermal deformation, shrinkage, and shrinkage, which can ultimately lead to breakage of the fastening for hemming the ceiling in wooden house;
• The plane formed by the lower edges of wooden beams, even with the most careful leveling of the supporting surface of the walls, always remains uneven. Therefore, the material planned for the rough lining of the ceiling in a wooden house must have maximum strength.

For your information! The last point is extremely important for high-quality filling of the rough ceiling. Usually correct hemming with a long wooden strip, OSB board or plywood allows you to dramatically increase the rigidity of the structure.

The most difficult situation is considered to be with large rooms. The problem of how to make a rough ceiling in a private house using wooden beams of large elongation is always aggravated by the fact that the load-bearing wooden logs or double boards always bend under their own weight, the weight of insulation and attic furniture.

Therefore, it is important not only to choose the right way to hem the ceiling in a private house, but also to choose a method for attaching the hem to the beams. Ideally, the material should be laid in such a way as to compensate for any deflections rough floor or at least make them invisible.

Materials for laying on wooden beams

To file a rough ceiling, several of the most accessible and easy-to-process materials are used:

• Edged board 20-25 mm thick with a sanded and untreated surface;
• OSB boards with non-laminated surface;
• Plywood fabric;
• Old laminate.

All of the listed materials are made on the basis of wood chips, which, after deep processing using pressure and chemical reagents, still maintains the coefficient of thermal expansion within the characteristics of construction wood.

Plasterboard sheets, for all their advantages, are not suitable for fastening directly to wooden beams of the rough floor. A transition frame is needed.

In this case, in order to install a rough plasterboard ceiling on ceiling beams, you will need to install a metal frame made of thin-sheet profiles.

There are many alternative options materials. Before hemming the ceiling base in a private house with expensive plywood or clapboard, you can use an old wooden lath from the facade of the building or even trimming cladding panels.

The old dismantled laminate can be used as a backing material for the rough ceiling. Usually owners throw it away or use it for flooring in the most unexpected places. Processed oil varnish lamellas can solve the problem of choosing how to sew up a ceiling on beams in a small room.

Plank lining of the rough ceiling on wooden beams

Most suitable option hems have to be selected based on the characteristics of the building, the method of its insulation, the presence of warm or cold attic space, wall material, atmospheric humidity inside the box.

The ideal option for a rough ceiling may well be considered to be padding the wooden floor beams with a regular shalevka or edged board.

There are three most proven flooring methods:

• Fastening long boards along the lower ends of the rough floor;
• Installation of boards on skull strips;
• Flooring on the outer surface of wooden beams.

At first glance, the material options are not much different, but this is not entirely true; there are certain differences. Before hemming the rough ceiling along the beams, you need to pay attention to the structure of the attic and ceiling.

Laying a wooden batten along the upper plane of the beam is used only in case of a serious need to increase the height of the ceiling or to arrange winter-type attic rooms. In this case, to reduce losses, the floor is insulated with an additional layer of mineral wool over the rough sheathing of wooden beams. Removing the logs from the insulation layer reduces heat loss and significantly improves vapor barrier.

The classic version of lining the ceiling on wooden beams

Tongue and groove boards are rarely used for rough coatings due to the high price. In the simplest case, an edged board is used to file the floor. But there are exceptions; in frame buildings, rough ceilings can be hemmed wooden clapboard or floorboard.

The shalevka is cut to size, sewn to the length of the overlap and sanded along the back and front parts. This option turns out to be cheaper than if you purchase edged or, especially, tongue and groove boards. At first glance, the material used for arranging a rough ceiling does not have to be sanded or processed using a jointer. In fact, removing coarse lint from a wooden surface remaining after sawing significantly reduces consumption antiseptic impregnations and fire retardants.

If the distance between the beams does not exceed 60 cm, then the board can be hit directly on a wooden beam. In this case, the material should be laid on the rough ceiling perpendicular to the direction of laying the ceiling. If the room is large enough, and the distance between the beams is more than a meter, then you will need to sew additional sheathing from cut inch boards to reduce the distance to 40 cm.

The only problem that you have to face when arranging a rough ceiling is the difficulty of holding the board on wooden beams at outstretched arms. If you have to work alone, then adjustable scaffolding, homemade wooden supports or carpentry clamps come to the rescue. The laid board is carefully pressed to remove the gap, and secured with self-tapping screws and a screwdriver.

In the same way, a rough ceiling is assembled from a tongue-and-groove floorboard or wooden lining.

The advantage of filing a rough ceiling on cranial beams

You can also make a hem for the ceiling surface using cranial wooden blocks. These are wooden slats with a cross section of 40x40 mm, sewn on both sides of the beam along its entire length. The rough ceiling is made up of short wooden planks or scrap boards laid on skull supports along the entire length of the floor.

This filing method has its advantages:

• Laying the material can be done independently, without assistants, while the worker is located directly on the ceiling from the attic side, so it is much more convenient to lay the lining material than to lift it with outstretched arms above his head;
• The stacked ceiling is much simpler option tamping long boards along the entire length of the floor. You can always remove one or two boards in order to check the condition of the insulation or lay additional communications.

The technology for laying a rough ceiling on cranial bars It also has its own, quite serious drawbacks. Firstly, the dimensions of the support rail-bar must be at least 40x40 mm, otherwise the weight of the filing will simply push it through. Secondly, the thickness of the insulation of the rough ceiling is reduced by the height of the support. Otherwise, the floor surface will need to be raised by the same 40 mm.

Thirdly, the horizontal dimension between the wooden beams is automatically reduced by 80 mm, which leads to a deterioration in the permeability of vapors, most of which are not removed through the ventilation gap, but will linger on the sub-ceiling.

Another factor is that short boards do not in any way affect the strength and rigidity of the rough ceiling. Conversely, long-length hemming significantly improves bearing capacity timber, so it is recommended to sew up very elongated ceilings without using cranial supports.

Lining with plywood, OSB and fiberboard

Of the three materials used for lining sub-ceilings, fiberboard is considered the weakest, but due to its light weight, fiberboard can be installed or laid on wooden beams alone, without assistants.

Fiberboard ceiling

Lining with wood-fiber material is used as a rough base before installing suspended ceiling membranes, pasting foam tiles, stucco moldings, all types decorative finishing having low weight.

If wooden beams made of hewn logs are laid on the walls, then before assembling the rough ceiling, a sheathing of thin slats with a section of 20x60 mm must be placed on the lower edge. If you fix the wood-fiber cloth directly to the uneven surface of the log, the surface will turn out to be crooked and uneven.

Lining wooden beams with plywood

To construct a rough ceiling, plywood up to 10 mm thick is used. The material can be laid in any order, directly on the beams, without any sheathing or intermediate slats.

If ceiling surface in the future it will be finished, painted or tinted to match the cladding from solid wood, then the joints and seams between the coatings are sealed with a special paste made from painted birch shavings and oil varnish.

Before laying the material, the seams and edges are sealed with tape so that the varnish does not get on the front side, otherwise stains and streaks will remain on the plywood due to poor absorption of the toner.

Using OSB boards

Arranging a backing layer on wooden beams using OSB boards rightly considered one of the most optimal options rough ceiling filings. The cost of a 10 mm thick slab is approximately half the price of plywood, despite the fact that the strength of OSB is sufficient to hold the insulation layer, and correct fastening, at least five screws for every 20 cm of wooden beam length, the panel can support a weight of up to 100 kg per square meter.

Conclusion

The technology for laying a rough ceiling on wooden beams is accessible to all novice finishers in terms of complexity. Anyone who has ever dealt with the installation of slats and boards without resorting to the services of hired workers. Of course, before you start equipping the rough ceiling, it would be right to think through the entire technology for performing the work, especially in terms of transferring the ceiling material and temporarily holding it until it is completely fixed.